Well done. At my age of 70 plus and a retired machinist I have just started using Fusion 360 and learning all te time. Now I have learnt another valuable piece of info. Cheers and thanks Ian
Man this video was a huge help to me. I’m an experienced manual machinist. Just got into 3d printing and bought a crossfire CNC table too. Have my best friends duramax in my shop doing an EGR delete this weekend. The company he ordered the kit from shorted us one of the block off plates and the r didn’t realize it until everything was off the motor. Thanks to your video I was able to use the gasket to cut a new plate and I’m about an hour from being done with his truck so he can work tomorrow. Keep up the good work young man!
tip from a professional photographer: you should absolutely NOT be close to the thing you try to repro photograph - you should use a tele lens for that (over 100mm focal length), that way perspective distortion is cut to an absolute minimum. if you use a wide angle, like lets say a gopro, you wont be able to get an accurate part no matter how close you get to it, in fact the closer you get to it, the worse distortion gets. so if your phone has a tele lens, go ahead and use that over the wide angle lens.
An A4 scanner will be a lot more readily available to the masses then specialty camera lenses, so the easiest and quickest is to scan the item (if possible), with the scanner you can set the verticality, and if you add a ruler to the scan, then you are all out of guesswork, because you can use the ruler to dimension your picture accurately
you don't have to guess the center of a circle, you can center a circle by drawing a 3 point circle instead by picking 3 different points on the circle/arc.
Been mentioned, but deserves repeating. If you can fit it on a scanner, scan it. Preferably alongside a ruler or square for calibration. If you take a photo, use grid lines in camera and align with drawn lines or ruler. Perspective can be really deceiving, and trying to calibrate a shape with edges and corners that are fuzzy can introduce serious errors.
If the customer can scan the part with a ruler next to it under an A4 scanner you'll have a scale and a undistorted perspective closer to reality as best as possible. Works good for flat parts in your video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Thanks, very nice short clear tutorial. Some thoughts. To reduce the "forced perspective" aspect, it's better to be farther away, rather than closer. Perspective is based on distance from the image. Think about taking a pic of someone's face from up close with a wide angle lens (huge nose effect), vs. moving back and taking the same pic using a normal or mild telephoto lens (less perspective distortion). Getting square to the plane of the object is also key. Especially if you're having someone else take the pic from their own location, ask them to put some items with known sizes in the same image frame. For example a ruler could be placed along side the object. Also could place coins of a known diameter at the 4 corners of the image and elsewhere to provide exact local scale information. The coins can be placed on the background or on portions of the object itself. You can also get the person taking the pic to measure the diagonals from the 4 coins to provide accurate overall scale (just be sure you know whether they measured from the "inner" or "outer" edges of the coins).This lets you determine whether mis-alignment of the camera sensor plane and the object's plane is significant. If it is, the coin images in the photo will be different sizes. You can then use photoshop or another tool to correct this, or you can take these differences into account when tracing the object outline.
Use tangent arcs next time.. Use the line command until you get to the start of a curved section, then use tangent arc from the line and follow the curve. Using the centre point arc tool will also save you a lot of clicks that you'll need to complete to trim the full circles you drew. It's also a good idea to use flat edges, as far apart as possible to scale off of. Not circles.. The larger the distance used to scale, the smaller your error will be. If there are no straight edges to use, you can always place a ruler or something of known length, that is as thin as possible on the surface before you take a photo. I print a 10mm grid and cut it to size then glue stick it on to the part. But always measure the points to ensure the grid printed correctly.
Do you have any links that you have used in the past to help gain more knowledge? I am starting off with this, and I really like your approach to help this guy get a better sketch
I've done similar recreations. If your customer has access to a flat plate scanner and can lay the part on the glass and scan it in, then you get super great accuracy. Also, have them measure the part at the widest corners so that you can properly scale the photo/ scan.
Great to the point video and the best part was... no stupid music to wreck it... Also some good tips in the comments. I am very well versed in manufacturing but new to fusion360. This helped a lot. Thank you.
🙋👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 Hey kid. ( lol ) old man here This just what I need ! And lots more ! Have the. 225. Have the pro table. Aug. Been real sick again had to stop New table people. Need big help some of us. Not tec ie I know nothing We need steps by step help just as you did. Every. Move . To learn you videos are great ! Super great as you are a teacher. Mom and Dad must be very Proud of you They did a great job .
I actually laughed when I saw the finished part, I just think it's so cool that you can make all this stuff on a computer and in a few minutes or hours you can have that part in your hands. Good video for beginners like me, you got a subscriber
Flat bed scanners are pretty good, too especially if it's a big part. The only issue is that if it's thick, the scanner light casts a shadow. But leaving the scanner open and shining a light on it helps. You can also put your phone or tablet on top of the part screen down with a white image. It's a weird method, but it makes nice crisp lines.
Thank you so much for this video. I had been thrashing for hours trying to figure out how to produce a sketch from a part I need to 3D print. With your explanation, it only took me about 20 minutes to produce the model in Fusion 360 and export an STL file that is ready to print.
Nice. With copying unbroken parts, I often just make my photo black and white and up the contrast then simply bitmap trace it in Inkscape and export as an svg. I can then extrude, mod and 3D print or cut as I like.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I just ordered a new langmire plasma cutter. And a new computer. And a new computer. I'm also going to use Fusion 360 and you made it so much easier to photocopy something and then be able to make it into a part. Thank you so much man look forward to a bunch of videos. Wish you would talk a little louder for us deaf old men :-)
I just bought a Crossfire pro, that video was amazing. That is going to make drawing part super fast. I can sketch out the part on paper the import it, and draw right over it!!!
Can't imagine why you'd ask a customer to measure just a circle diameter for reference when there's a perfectly good 90* in the upper left corner and bottom. Multiple points of reference for sanity check. Also, have them use an accurate rule to measure tip to tip on the top and bottom of those 90s and when they're done, lay that rule next to the part when they snap the photo. A lot of guessing going on here, which means you'll need a lot of luck in the end for this part to fit.
This is by far one the best Fusion 360 videos. Sure mots other go into more detail but you went at a pace that was easy to follow and not make my damn head hurt. keep up the good work.
Well done. E-machine shop is much faster, free and you can even order the finished part to be made directly from the software delivered to your door. Brilliant service.
One thought... To get the scale correct, have the person that took the photo include a ruler or tape measure in the picture. That will allow you to get an accurate scale without guessing. Otherwise excellent presentation.
Great video young man! I just turned 70 and am enjoying a new challenge . Your upbeat attitude prevents me from falling asleep like in other videos ! Lol
4:20 this helps immensely. I had no idea I could do this! This will save me so much time. However there are better ways to get even more accurate. Like measuring the hole with calipers (in this case having the customer do so) I know there are standards but with this piece being damaged you never know what happened if anything with that potion of the piece. also your dots are off I would have used the grid to make sure the dots were at 0 and 180. I’m not sure how much this matters to you but in my use cases my tolerances need to be within a 32nd of an inch or so.
Very Good. Anyone that is prepared to share information on RUclips. Always deserves a Thumbs Up. Thanks for posting this video. All the best with your channel. Peter
New subscriber! Thanks for sharing. Your explanation is clear and easy to follow and understand. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to seeing more.
I use the canvas technique all the time, taking a really good photo is important, i use an iPhone to line up the cross hairs to make sure im looking directly down on the object, also make sure there are no shadows which will obscure the edges. Larry
F'n FANTASTIC!!! Thank You for sharing your insight and experience using this software! Extremely grateful and motivated to go BUILD STUFF!!! Thanks Again!
Thanks for posting this function - it just opened a tonne of options for me. I believe it would be better for the client to just take a photo of the piece with a ruler lying next to, or elevated to the top face. That way you can use the ruler's increments for calibration.
I need to replicate this project so I can get familiar with program. I been wanting a 4'x4' table to build stuff but don't have anyone locally to teach me. Awesome video.
You could try a Chartreuse paper backdrop as this is helpful to pickup details, some of your lines are washed out with shadows which makes it harder to outline. I have used Chartreuse color filament in smaller holes of parts when scanning and the holes light up otherwise they would be hidden in the shadows. Our retina and cameras see this color very well
Good video, process clearly explained. You are correct that the quality of the photo is key however one small point I feel needs correction. Close-up photos tend to distort the image to you your disadvantage (take a real close-up of someone’s face and it will come out with a big nose and small ears - this is a function of the distance ratio of the persons nose to the camera’s focal plane and the ears to focal plane). A better strategy is to be as far away from the subject as practical and zoom in... in this case the nose and ears are still at different distances from the focal plane-although the difference in the distances is very small. I’d suggest placing the object on the ground, with a contrasting background as you suggest an then take the photo from chest height, directly over the subject, for larger objects than your gasket example, you could stand on a chair. A good camera with a lens with focal length longer than 50mm is the best option, but a smartphone is fine - increasing the distance as described reduces distortion, but with smartphones the trade-off is sharp definition. Just a word on scaling... try to get an accurate measurement for the largest feature this will minimise scaling errors. Apologies for the long comment - just trying to be helpful... Excellent video though.
Agree with this - a dedicated camera with a 100mm lens (or DSLR with zoom set at 100) will give you the best distortionless photo - plus high resolution for better scaling up. It’s also easier to get it square on with a camera, rather than a phone... especially if you have a tripod that will do this. But... not everyone has a camera, let alone a DSLR.
Hey just came across your video. I really liked it but I've got a question concerning the distance that you take the photo of the object from. You mention to get as close as possible for accuracy I get that but I've used this method once and had the problem that all my bolt holes where offset in a concentric way and i think it came from the curve of the camera lens of my phone and i did not use the wideangle. So would you suggest to keep a certain distance to the object to avoid this problem or what else could have caused this problem?
I've been looking for a good way to do this in Fusion 360 for 3d printing,, (I'm new to 3d modeling) so thanks for the great tutorial. This is going to help greatly!
Thanks for this video I have been trying to trace a picture in another program and it is a nightmare. Time to learn Fusion 360 I feel (at 70+ years old learning something new is not a simple task)
Hi, thanks for the great tutorial. So after a photo is traced to a cut file do have I have to adapt (merge) the file to a robot arm software to cut out the picture? I'm trying to laser cut closed cell foam for my customer.
So I’m trying to adopt this technique to recreating custom panels from a space video game. Based on the restraints, I cannot get a straight perspective but I am able to see the other axises. Is that a way to incorporate that angle or do I simply create the one face as square as I can?
That worked out nicely. If accuracy was more important, I would get the longest dimensions from the photogrphy, not a small hole. If you miss by 1 mm, the relative error would be musch smaller. And a photo should be taken straight on, but not as close as bossible, due to distortion. It is better to increase the distance somewhat (depending on the available resolution on camera, and if the customer have analog zoom, he shoould go as far back as possible from the object before taking the photo)).
Also a good idea to have them send it in some way other than a regular text message, multimedia messages get downsized and compressed to hell. It's much easier to precisely pick your calibration points if an edge isn't spread across 5mm of pixels...
Thsnk you young man. I am 66 years old and i enjoy building tall ships and R C airplanes wasca hobbies. After I purchase my machine I will try your techique I hope I can ask you questions in the future in the event I get hung up?
Great. Next time draw a line on the paper (e.g. 4") and write length you can use that line to calibrate. also possible to put tape measure next to object
3 years later and you're still helping people. Thank you for this vid! Also, thanks for the tips on how to take the pictures
Well done. At my age of 70 plus and a retired machinist I have just started using Fusion 360 and learning all te time. Now I have learnt another valuable piece of info. Cheers and thanks Ian
Man this video was a huge help to me. I’m an experienced manual machinist. Just got into 3d printing and bought a crossfire CNC table too. Have my best friends duramax in my shop doing an EGR delete this weekend. The company he ordered the kit from shorted us one of the block off plates and the r didn’t realize it until everything was off the motor. Thanks to your video I was able to use the gasket to cut a new plate and I’m about an hour from being done with his truck so he can work tomorrow. Keep up the good work young man!
Awesome thanks for the support 😎
I am a beginner at 60 years old. Do thank you kiddo!! Helped out
tip from a professional photographer: you should absolutely NOT be close to the thing you try to repro photograph - you should use a tele lens for that (over 100mm focal length), that way perspective distortion is cut to an absolute minimum. if you use a wide angle, like lets say a gopro, you wont be able to get an accurate part no matter how close you get to it, in fact the closer you get to it, the worse distortion gets. so if your phone has a tele lens, go ahead and use that over the wide angle lens.
I came here to say that.
An A4 scanner will be a lot more readily available to the masses then specialty camera lenses, so the easiest and quickest is to scan the item (if possible), with the scanner you can set the verticality, and if you add a ruler to the scan, then you are all out of guesswork, because you can use the ruler to dimension your picture accurately
@@mikeylama i noticed significant distortion upon scanning even slightly 3 dimensional objects with a flatbed scanner, so bear that in mind!
was going to say this. be as far away as you can
@John James yeah or measure the 2 furthest points and use that as reference to get the most accuracy
you don't have to guess the center of a circle, you can center a circle by drawing a 3 point circle instead by picking 3 different points on the circle/arc.
lol or measure from the furthest parts of the part top get out as accurate as possible and minimize the error compounding
Been mentioned, but deserves repeating. If you can fit it on a scanner, scan it. Preferably alongside a ruler or square for calibration. If you take a photo, use grid lines in camera and align with drawn lines or ruler. Perspective can be really deceiving, and trying to calibrate a shape with edges and corners that are fuzzy can introduce serious errors.
If the customer can scan the part with a ruler next to it under an A4 scanner you'll have a scale and a undistorted perspective closer to reality as best as possible. Works good for flat parts in your video. Thanks for sharing your knowledge
The more I learn about fusion 360 the more incredible that software is!
Thanks, very nice short clear tutorial. Some thoughts. To reduce the "forced perspective" aspect, it's better to be farther away, rather than closer. Perspective is based on distance from the image. Think about taking a pic of someone's face from up close with a wide angle lens (huge nose effect), vs. moving back and taking the same pic using a normal or mild telephoto lens (less perspective distortion). Getting square to the plane of the object is also key. Especially if you're having someone else take the pic from their own location, ask them to put some items with known sizes in the same image frame. For example a ruler could be placed along side the object. Also could place coins of a known diameter at the 4 corners of the image and elsewhere to provide exact local scale information. The coins can be placed on the background or on portions of the object itself. You can also get the person taking the pic to measure the diagonals from the 4 coins to provide accurate overall scale (just be sure you know whether they measured from the "inner" or "outer" edges of the coins).This lets you determine whether mis-alignment of the camera sensor plane and the object's plane is significant. If it is, the coin images in the photo will be different sizes. You can then use photoshop or another tool to correct this, or you can take these differences into account when tracing the object outline.
Interesting. Nice idea about placing targets at key spots.
What about a gauge block in the photo?
Great video. I find that using the biggest dimension for calibrate makes for even greater dimensional accuracy.
Yes, maybe a center to center on those two holes would be better. Still, this is a pretty cool demo.
@@MLFranklin Yes! That is where I would have taken my calibration dimention from too.
Use tangent arcs next time.. Use the line command until you get to the start of a curved section, then use tangent arc from the line and follow the curve.
Using the centre point arc tool will also save you a lot of clicks that you'll need to complete to trim the full circles you drew.
It's also a good idea to use flat edges, as far apart as possible to scale off of. Not circles.. The larger the distance used to scale, the smaller your error will be.
If there are no straight edges to use, you can always place a ruler or something of known length, that is as thin as possible on the surface before you take a photo.
I print a 10mm grid and cut it to size then glue stick it on to the part. But always measure the points to ensure the grid printed correctly.
Can you show us what you mean with some videos?
@@Roundawg It's all explained in my comment.. what is it that you need help with?
Do you have any links that you have used in the past to help gain more knowledge? I am starting off with this, and I really like your approach to help this guy get a better sketch
This sounds like someone how as been doing this a looong time or a lot of it! Great advice!
I've done similar recreations. If your customer has access to a flat plate scanner and can lay the part on the glass and scan it in, then you get super great accuracy. Also, have them measure the part at the widest corners so that you can properly scale the photo/ scan.
Great to the point video and the best part was... no stupid music to wreck it... Also some good tips in the comments. I am very well versed in manufacturing but new to fusion360. This helped a lot. Thank you.
Have a ruler or tape measure in the photo !!!
That or at least have the customer measure a larger distance, like the distance between the holes.
By
Or anything that could help give a sizing reference... Even a coin would do.
This is key, otherwise there is no scale.
Graph paper as a background. Engineering paper beter You can dermine if there is any keystoning in the graph and how perpendicular the photo is.
🙋👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Hey kid. ( lol ) old man here
This just what I need ! And lots more !
Have the. 225. Have the pro table. Aug. Been real sick again had to stop
New table people. Need big help some of us. Not tec ie I know nothing
We need steps by step help just as you did. Every. Move . To learn you videos are great !
Super great as you are a teacher. Mom and Dad must be very Proud of you
They did a great job .
I actually laughed when I saw the finished part, I just think it's so cool that you can make all this stuff on a computer and in a few minutes or hours you can have that part in your hands. Good video for beginners like me, you got a subscriber
I am a beginner in 3d printing and Fusion 360 your video is life saver. Thank you
Flat bed scanners are pretty good, too especially if it's a big part. The only issue is that if it's thick, the scanner light casts a shadow. But leaving the scanner open and shining a light on it helps. You can also put your phone or tablet on top of the part screen down with a white image. It's a weird method, but it makes nice crisp lines.
New Fusion 360 user, this was one of the more informative videos I've come across.. Thanks!
Thank you so much for this video. I had been thrashing for hours trying to figure out how to produce a sketch from a part I need to 3D print. With your explanation, it only took me about 20 minutes to produce the model in Fusion 360 and export an STL file that is ready to print.
That's awesome nice work 👏
Nice. With copying unbroken parts, I often just make my photo black and white and up the contrast then simply bitmap trace it in Inkscape and export as an svg. I can then extrude, mod and 3D print or cut as I like.
Great clip, you did more in this clip than hours with fusion 360 support actually could do. Thank you.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this video. I just ordered a new langmire plasma cutter. And a new computer. And a new computer. I'm also going to use Fusion 360 and you made it so much easier to photocopy something and then be able to make it into a part. Thank you so much man look forward to a bunch of videos. Wish you would talk a little louder for us deaf old men :-)
Thank you so much for taking the time to make your video! Top notch tutorial! 😊
This video was very helpful. I am just starting to look at Fusion 360 and not really a computer person.
Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Alex I fabricated a tractor attachment and had no idea how I was going to put it on a computer. This was very helpful. Thanks for the video.😁👍
I just bought a Crossfire pro, that video was amazing. That is going to make drawing part super fast. I can sketch out the part on paper the import it, and draw right over it!!!
Can't imagine why you'd ask a customer to measure just a circle diameter for reference when there's a perfectly good 90* in the upper left corner and bottom. Multiple points of reference for sanity check. Also, have them use an accurate rule to measure tip to tip on the top and bottom of those 90s and when they're done, lay that rule next to the part when they snap the photo. A lot of guessing going on here, which means you'll need a lot of luck in the end for this part to fit.
Right to the point, this is what youtube was about in the early days. Great Stuff!
This is by far one the best Fusion 360 videos. Sure mots other go into more detail but you went at a pace that was easy to follow and not make my damn head hurt. keep up the good work.
Thank u, in the first vision it looks very difficult but when I watched ur video, it's too easy Thank u again
I did not know about the scale function. That alone made this video very helpful. Thanks
You can also just type "3/8" and it should work as well. Thank you for the tips!
My interest in getting a Langmuir just went up big time. Great info!
I've been using sketchup for woodworking for years but this looks like a much better program for CNC or 3D printing. Thanks for the walk thru!
Well done. E-machine shop is much faster, free and you can even order the finished part to be made directly from the software delivered to your door. Brilliant service.
One thought... To get the scale correct, have the person that took the photo include a ruler or tape measure in the picture. That will allow you to get an accurate scale without guessing. Otherwise excellent presentation.
You are absolutely correct I've actually started doing that since
Great video young man! I just turned 70 and am enjoying a new challenge . Your upbeat attitude prevents me from falling asleep like in other videos ! Lol
Thanks for watching 😎
Thanks, you are very talented and humble
Thank you for showing how this is achieved, you have helped me out a few times with this video.
4:20 this helps immensely. I had no idea I could do this! This will save me so much time. However there are better ways to get even more accurate. Like measuring the hole with calipers (in this case having the customer do so) I know there are standards but with this piece being damaged you never know what happened if anything with that potion of the piece. also your dots are off I would have used the grid to make sure the dots were at 0 and 180. I’m not sure how much this matters to you but in my use cases my tolerances need to be within a 32nd of an inch or so.
Very Good.
Anyone that is prepared to share information on RUclips.
Always deserves a Thumbs Up.
Thanks for posting this video.
All the best with your channel.
Peter
2024 and it's still actual tutorial. Thank you, you really helped me
Thank you for watching
4 years later, this guy teaching me more than my college ever will
🙏 appreciate it.
New subscriber! Thanks for sharing. Your explanation is clear and easy to follow and understand. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to seeing more.
I use the canvas technique all the time, taking a really good photo is important, i use an iPhone to line up the cross hairs to make sure im looking directly down on the object, also make sure there are no shadows which will obscure the edges. Larry
Fntastic video. This is how all the tutorials should be. Simple and explained, then Done!
Man this video is priceless. I didn’t even know you could do that .
F'n FANTASTIC!!! Thank You for sharing your insight and experience using this software! Extremely grateful and motivated to go BUILD STUFF!!! Thanks Again!
Thanks for posting this function - it just opened a tonne of options for me. I believe it would be better for the client to just take a photo of the piece with a ruler lying next to, or elevated to the top face. That way you can use the ruler's increments for calibration.
💯%agree
Just learning . But also being into motorbikes this is also excellent . Thanks for that 👌
Really well done, informative, straight to the point video with tons of technique insights. Bravo.
I found it very informative. Fusion 360 is very powerful.
Use a 6 inch scale in photo.
Oh, stand still doing your taping. Lol
I need to replicate this project so I can get familiar with program. I been wanting a 4'x4' table to build stuff but don't have anyone locally to teach me. Awesome video.
That was a great tip. Thanks for sharing.
I learned a new trick with Fusion 360.
Thank you.
Anything of scale within the photo will help us keep native scale awesome video I am custom fab awesome subscribed!
You could try a Chartreuse paper backdrop as this is helpful to pickup details, some of your lines are washed out with shadows which makes it harder to outline. I have used Chartreuse color filament in smaller holes of parts when scanning and the holes light up otherwise they would be hidden in the shadows. Our retina and cameras see this color very well
Good idea. It could also help to shoot a quick coat of flat black spray paint on the part in order to make the edges pop better.
You are amazing Alex! Thanks for another great video!
Great video. I'm gonna share this on the Langmuir facebook page. They'll love it!
Thanks
thanks, will be trying this....looking forward to more
This a fantastic tutorial, can't wait to apply it. Thanks for the step by step! Cheers
GREAT video sir!!!
Thanks man!!!
Really appreciate you taking the time to make the video!!!!
Good video, process clearly explained. You are correct that the quality of the photo is key however one small point I feel needs correction. Close-up photos tend to distort the image to you your disadvantage (take a real close-up of someone’s face and it will come out with a big nose and small ears - this is a function of the distance ratio of the persons nose to the camera’s focal plane and the ears to focal plane). A better strategy is to be as far away from the subject as practical and zoom in... in this case the nose and ears are still at different distances from the focal plane-although the difference in the distances is very small. I’d suggest placing the object on the ground, with a contrasting background as you suggest an then take the photo from chest height, directly over the subject, for larger objects than your gasket example, you could stand on a chair. A good camera with a lens with focal length longer than 50mm is the best option, but a smartphone is fine - increasing the distance as described reduces distortion, but with smartphones the trade-off is sharp definition. Just a word on scaling... try to get an accurate measurement for the largest feature this will minimise scaling errors. Apologies for the long comment - just trying to be helpful... Excellent video though.
Agree with this - a dedicated camera with a 100mm lens (or DSLR with zoom set at 100) will give you the best distortionless photo - plus high resolution for better scaling up. It’s also easier to get it square on with a camera, rather than a phone... especially if you have a tripod that will do this.
But... not everyone has a camera, let alone a DSLR.
Great detailed video. Easy to follow. Thank you,
great fast paced video.I am just starting out with my Langmuir pro. Why is is better to extrude the part to create a toolpath ?
Thank you for this video.
I found it quite useful.
Best
James
Hey just came across your video. I really liked it but I've got a question concerning the distance that you take the photo of the object from. You mention to get as close as possible for accuracy I get that but I've used this method once and had the problem that all my bolt holes where offset in a concentric way and i think it came from the curve of the camera lens of my phone and i did not use the wideangle. So would you suggest to keep a certain distance to the object to avoid this problem or what else could have caused this problem?
Great video, Have bought an ArcDroid so need to learn either Fusion 360 or Sheetcam still deciding.
This was great. Thanks for sharing.
Very helpful. I want to watch more.
Very interesting! As soon as I learn Fusion 360 better I'll try the tips you put out, thank you.
Great video! It really helped me to get into fusion360. Thank you
Awesome tutorial, thank you for posting.
Thank you for watching
I've been looking for a good way to do this in Fusion 360 for 3d printing,, (I'm new to 3d modeling) so thanks for the great tutorial. This is going to help greatly!
Super helpful. CAD/CAM noob here.
Thanks for this video I have been trying to trace a picture in another program and it is a nightmare. Time to learn Fusion 360 I feel (at 70+ years old learning something new is not a simple task)
Great video man! Good job, keep the videos coming that was some good information.
Hi, thanks for the great tutorial. So after a photo is traced to a cut file do have I have to adapt (merge) the file to a robot arm software to cut out the picture? I'm trying to laser cut closed cell foam for my customer.
Very cool.
Definitely going to try that.b
Thanx Bud
dude your channel looks like it's right up my ally. Cool intro!
So I’m trying to adopt this technique to recreating custom panels from a space video game. Based on the restraints, I cannot get a straight perspective but I am able to see the other axises. Is that a way to incorporate that angle or do I simply create the one face as square as I can?
Good info.
Thanks for sharing.
Excellent and simple. Thanks!
Thank you this video helped me a lot it works for 3d printing also because thats what i used it for than you
That worked out nicely. If accuracy was more important, I would get the longest dimensions from the photogrphy, not a small hole. If you miss by 1 mm, the relative error would be musch smaller. And a photo should be taken straight on, but not as close as bossible, due to distortion. It is better to increase the distance somewhat (depending on the available resolution on camera, and if the customer have analog zoom, he shoould go as far back as possible from the object before taking the photo)).
Also a good idea to have them send it in some way other than a regular text message, multimedia messages get downsized and compressed to hell. It's much easier to precisely pick your calibration points if an edge isn't spread across 5mm of pixels...
Thsnk you young man. I am 66 years old and i enjoy building tall ships and R C airplanes wasca hobbies. After I purchase my machine I will try your techique I hope I can ask you questions in the future in the event I get hung up?
Thanks for the video happy to have found this video. Seems very helpful, planning to get into 3d printing been watching videos
Thx,
Tip, take a photo with a ruler next to the object , it will be easier to scale...
This was really helpful. Thank you.
very helpful and well explanation thank u
Excellent video with each step clearly explained
Great video, very helpful for me, kerp it coming. 👍🏻
Great. Next time draw a line on the paper (e.g. 4") and write length you can use that line to calibrate. also possible to put tape measure next to object
Great work, thx for your time.
great information - thx for sharing
done so welland simplly explained, thanks man! that was fun to watch
Thanks. And thanks for watching 😎
Very nice thank you God bless
Thanks for sharing. This has been immensely useful for things I do around the shop. 👍