I think the hardest part about fuel trims for most people to understand is that positive and negative relate to the fuel itself. Positive is adding FUEL and negative is taking away FUEL. When you relate it to rich and lean though it seems opposite. Rich, which is usually too much fuel, would have a negative fuel trim. Lean, which is usually not enough fuel, would be positive fuel trim. Once it clicks it becomes much easier to understand.
So, so true. I have just had it explained by the best and, just when i think iv'e got it! Failure again, it's the opposite of what i understand it to be.
Best explanation of fuel trims that I’ve run across. The background starting with carburetors and the well paced progression to modern fuel injection was just perfect! You are one of those rare individuals who can structure a lesson flawlessly. I wish that my college professors were as talented as you are!
Before looking at fuel trims you need a baseline so you know what your even looking at, this is misleading and very basic explanation of fuel trims, without a baseline your flying blind at LEAST recommend a spark plug color check, the computer dosnt differentiate individual cylinders so you could have just one cylinder running lean or rich, injector duty cycle and alot of things need to be taken into account
I know a few ladies from Argentina who grow their pubic hair as soon as winter starts and as soon as spring again everything will be neat and smooth again !!
I never knew this was so simple. You really made it very simple for anyone you to understand it. I kept pushing back learning about it as I felt it may be complex
Yet another great video from DD, love to watch them. Very clear and easy going, calm and explains well. very interesting stuff as well. Any chance you could make a short video of your tech tools, with a quick explanation of their pros and cons? Looking forward for your next video, and great to see you are doing well.
MY DEAR FRIEND, WE WISH CHRIST IS RISEN AND EVERY FAMILY HAPPINESS. I AM AN ENGINEER FROM GREECE AND I WATCH YOUR VIDEOS.YOU HAVE REALLY HELPED ME VERY MUCH IN THE DIAGNOSIS OF TROUBLES. CONTINUE TO GIVE US YOUR KNOWLEDGEI WILL WATCH YOUR VIDEOS WITH CARE. SORRY BUT I DO NOT SPEAK ENGLISH SO I TRANSLATE MY TEXTS .CONTINUE THE GOOD WORK YOU ARE DOING. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. DIMITRIS GREECE.
I caught the mouse! Understanding the fuel trim is the basis for the correct diagnosis of automotive engine malfunctions. This mouse confused me so much! Thanks Dan.
I am at an age where I trained on carbs and banks of carbs on cars and bikes so this is easy for me to understand. Trying to bring my knowledge up to date the hardest problem is understanding the terms. I had heard the term " fuel trim " a few times but now understand it's just what we called mixture.
definitely helped me understand how a vacuum line leak can affect the idle of a care. I had a guy let me use his 1996 Cadillac Deville but it was overheating after driving it 10 miles. in the weeks that I was replacing the clogged purge line to the radiator purge tank and found 3 obstructions in the line. In the process, I had to replace the water pump housing, and while I had it apart, I saw several things that were probably causes of high idle and the car running at high operating temperatures. I found myself cleaning the EGR valve and the throttle body, which had black carbon build up, probably due to the PCV valve not only being bad but the rubber grommet it fits in being old and loose as well as the 90 degree boots that connect to the intake and to the PCV. I found myself looking at the TPS and the IAV; the idle air flow valve (motor) was really bad and I used Berryman carb cleaner to clean, not only the IAV but also the port it sits in and cleaning the MAS. The high idle was definitely, in part, causing the car to run at a high temperature. The guy came and took it a few weeks later, about the time I was getting it to run decent enough to drive to town and back without it overheating. Seems like the only one who really got helped was the 96 DeVille. In the end, it need the IAV and there was a vacuum line, I think it was the OBD II Purge switch connected to the EVAP CNST Purge Sol Vlv, it had a missing vacuum line I couldn't figure out where it went. I removed the EVAP Canister to see if it was built up with dirt. There are three lines that connect to it: one tot he fuel tank and one to the EVAP Sol Vlv and not sure where the third was supposed to connect but I was thinking maybe it broke before it made it back up into the engine compartment and went to the switch behind the EVAP Sol valve; one of the vacuum lines from the EVAP Solenoid valve had a T and it connected to this switch that sits behind it and also routs to the intake cover where there is a nipple to connect the vacuum line to; right next to it is the vacuum line that goes to the PCV. The idle was still slightly high when the guy came and took it, and I'm not sure if it really was a bad IAV or if it was because of the one vacuum line I didn't get the chance to chase down and reconnect, but I'm certain it would run cooler as it should if I were able to fix the slightly high idle. If this made any sense, I would certainly like your feedback. I never was able to identify this switch that the EVAP Solenoid valve connects to and no parts place like NAPA or Auto Zone or O'Reilly's were able to find it, but when I look up a diagram on google for the vacuum system for this 1996 Cadillac DeVille I am seeing the OBD II Purge Switch. From all my time under the hood looking for causes for the overheating, the diagram looks right for the vacuum system on it except the EVAP anister that sits behind the driver's back wheel behind the fender wall has 3 lines. one definitely to the fuel tank since it's the only one with a clamp on the hose and then one that must be going to the EVAP Tank canister and then discharges in the intake, but the third line, coming to or from the EVAP canister seems more of an outlet separate from the other half of the canister; I was able to blow air through the other two to blow out dirt from this one. The diagram I found on Google seems to be incomplete and doesn't show this line. This may be a car that you don't have there but thought maybe you may have an idea of what I am missing on the vacuum line schematic. Thanks for sharing your diagnostic skills!
Good explanation Third video on fuel trim I have watched and the only one that really made sense. I used to have to manually adjust my carburetors in the 1950's and 1960's so that carburetor comparison was an "A-Ha" for my old brain (over 80 now). I'm now a new subscriber.
nice explanation dan. remember folks if you are going off what the computer says make sure the o2's are working correctly first. been bit by this before.
Yesterday the Date of First Registration on the DD-TSB Demo was 23/03/2019. Today the DD-TSB Demo version is showing a First Registration Date of 27/03/2019. So, I am going with the date showing today - 27/03/2019. Thanks for the incredible contributions you are making to the automotive community. Hope DDTSB will be a huge success, you certainly deserve it to be. I wish you all the best.
Hi Dan I have been working on a 2009 mini with code p0420 could you explain how it’s possible to have fuel trim numbers adding up to 2 but on the gas test co was 1500 hc was 285 and lambda was 967. All bad but good FT and new b1s1 o2 fitted. Tia
Brilliant lesson, keeping an open mind is always key, in the 90 s a customer complained about poor fuel economy on a vehicle under warranty, it was also factory dual fuel, (LPG) after checking fuel trims there was no evidence of excessive fuel consumption on petrol, but having faith in customer it turned out OEM was allowing petrol to be injected whilst on LPG TO cool the cylinders and exhaust valves but it did not show and there was no technical release of this in any literature, only after my persistent harassing the tech support did they admit to it and release a TSB stating this
On the early FI GM cars it was called block learn and integrator. Before that on the 3C carburetors the ideal number was 28-32 at idle. So many cars would come into the shop with low float levels and idle mix screws off that we’d have to do a set them up all over again. We would adjust for the 28-32 using idle mix screws and the MC solenoid upper and lower limit as well as travel distance between the two on the metering control rods. A tiny bit higher float level would help the cars have really good acceleration at full throttle when the 4 barrel secondary metering rods would get pulled up.
@Diagnosedan Hi Dan, I have an issue in my diesel VW Tiguan 2011 with engine light coming on and off and this issue is related to EGR. I had the issue checked and all except one mechanic is suggesting EGR valve change. The one that does not suggest that is saying that are some plastic hoses that are connected to EGR which are loose and need to be checked. The mechanic had only the diagnose tool with him and no shop or place to check it him self. If you could suggest any thing it would be appreciated
Very clear explanation, thank you for that! I was wondering since yet some time what short-term & long-term fuel trim referred to. Enjoyed the reference to a carburetor, though imho most carburetors were somewhat more tricky to adjust than in your exemple. I was wondering whether the short-term & long-term fuel trim idea also applies to diesel engines (I guess yes) and how to look for it with VCDS (say on a 1.4l diesel 9N3 Polo). If you or someone else here has the answer, please let me know. Once again thank you for the quality content and for educating me!
I need help. Trying to figure it why my moms Scion is running so poorly. She’s getting lean codes, a constant cyl 2 misfire with brand new plugs and coil packs. Her STFT stays pretty constant around -4% but her long term is 13.8 and then goes to 7.8. Any suggestions? I’ll gonna spray some break clean in some areas to see if I’ve got leaks. Her car has 348,xxx miles!!
Great vid!👍 I get an po107 code but here’s the kicker. I get it every year on my 08 pont vibe. I have absolutely no symptoms-runs like a charm! And it only happens in the winter! Goes away or I clear it in spring and doesn’t come back till following winter! No leaks, chkd maf sensor. I’m suspecting poss cloggd gas filter or maybe the fuel injectors. But No symptoms at all. Any advice. Thx
Do you always get a code thrown? I’m thinking my vehicle is definitely using way too much fuel even under low loads, no codes though …checked air cleaner and map sensor been cleaned. I can only think to clean the fuel system with cleaner ( gasoline)
I watched your other video regarding pulse width 🤔 starting to get it now .. thank you. So… does the injector use pulse width to time the injectors ?im thinking definitely yes. Is that correct
Dan, you had an excellent explanation of this subject. What parts would increase the fuel economy more? replacing all four oxygen sensors or replacing the I.A.C.(Idle Air Control)valve and T.P.S.? the vehicle is a 2001 Chevrolet Express 3500 5.7L. Thank you
Hi Dan, First and foremost thanks for sharing your experience with us and I am sure that 'diagnosedan fix it again ' did not come without a reason. 23.03.2019 is the answer!
First registr.date: 23-03-2019 Great service you have created, Dan! Always big thanks for educational videos, they are fantastic. One thing I wanted to suggest: DDTSB is meant for shops with various clientele to help with diagnosis and tech support. It would be great if there was a limited subscription to DDTSB for us home users and DIY'ers. We may not need access to immediate tech support, but educational videos as well as access to things to help us diagnose our own cars would be immensely helpful. And we will also be contributing something to this great system. Thanks again!
Hi Dan, I owned a 2006 MB R-350 gasoline engine. It can not start since the last time it started and stalled after it was running for about 10 seconds. I lived in Canada and the weather now is up and down between -10 to -20. Any help thank.
Hi Dan! Thank you for posting such a great and educational content! I wish you very best and for your family! One idea for video topic - Car electric schemes and how to read them/approach them.
Thank you for the simple explanation Dan. Car first reg on the 23/03/2019. Keep those quality videos coming please. Stay safe, stay healthy, kind regards from Galway, Ireland 😉👍
Nice one! To add this as you say you work mostly on EU cars you could add the VAG way of showing Idel and Parcel fuel trims, with specified and Actual lambda numpers. For example today i fixed P2187 (System too lean at Idle) +25% idel mixture and actual lambda was still 1.190 on idel with specified of 1.000. Breathervalve drop the numbers to +4,6% and lambda to 1.000 at idle. ..After test run car had passed all its EOBD readyness test fully, without any errors.
I have a 2012 Buick enclave..on cold starts it idles very rough for about 10/15 seconds then idles down nicely..I am getting on bank 2 short term and long fuel trims of negative 100% .any thoughts, bad fuel injectors, bad oxygen sensor or big vacuum leaks. I have no codes
EH Dan (EH is Canadian for Hi) I was at the Pub recently and telling the guys they should tune into your channel; I told them your were the best student I ever had, and, that it only took some ten minutes to teach you everything I know!! That said I see your adventure is not hobbyist inclined, yes I feel slighted. Here the fee would come to a cost of $544.15. My point is can you not make room for the hobbyist that say has one or two German cars? Lets not forget we also need equipment to be able to translate effectively our troubleshooting. Having said that I know the cost are very inexpensive for commercial rates however, for the fellows not in business who may only use the service once or twice a year yet still gain advantage through your teachings, would likely want to have an option B. By the way Dan how are the wife and kids?
With the Bosch K type fuel injection system, they had a mixture adjustment in the air flow meter. My own car has this system. The best way to adjust this is by using a "colourtune" tool. This device is put into one of the spark plug holes, & tightened like a normal spark plug. The mixture is then adjusted until a pale blue flame is seen in the colourtune.
@@Johnathan_Waters this obviously tells me you have never worked on a 1976 Mercedes Benz with this fuel injection system. Before you start saying what I stated makes no sense, you obviously know very little about them. One of my mates has a 1980 Mercedes Benz with the k type jetronic fuel injection system fitted and the mixture can be adjusted. I uses to repair the older Mercedes Benz cars for a living. I also repair other European makes too, and most of the fuel injection systems they had were adjustable mixture. Maybe you should visit me, and I'll slow you how this is done.
@@christophermarshall5765 Yes, I get it. You're talking about "tuning" based on running the engine, and then taking the spark plugs out and reading them, correct??
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
DDTSB.COM
23-03-2019 will there be any wiring diagrams?
It would be nice if you had a low cost option for non-professionals, limiting them to info for one specific car.
23-03-2019
23-03-2019
23/3/19
I think the hardest part about fuel trims for most people to understand is that positive and negative relate to the fuel itself. Positive is adding FUEL and negative is taking away FUEL. When you relate it to rich and lean though it seems opposite. Rich, which is usually too much fuel, would have a negative fuel trim. Lean, which is usually not enough fuel, would be positive fuel trim. Once it clicks it becomes much easier to understand.
So, so true. I have just had it explained by the best and, just when i think iv'e got it! Failure again, it's the opposite of what i understand it to be.
Well said
💯💯💯
Exactly!
Yes. I look at it as "how is the computer compensating?". Adding (+) fuel because lean, subtracting (-) fuel because rich.
Best explanation of fuel trims that I’ve run across. The background starting with carburetors and the well paced progression to modern fuel injection was just perfect! You are one of those rare individuals who can structure a lesson flawlessly. I wish that my college professors were as talented as you are!
I know....he has very real talent in teaching.
Before looking at fuel trims you need a baseline so you know what your even looking at, this is misleading and very basic explanation of fuel trims, without a baseline your flying blind at LEAST recommend a spark plug color check, the computer dosnt differentiate individual cylinders so you could have just one cylinder running lean or rich, injector duty cycle and alot of things need to be taken into account
Not only did you explain it well, you presented it very thoroughly. Excellent!
You really are a great guy Dan, great teacher and an insane amount of knowledge you have
Thanks John❤️
Explaining things clear and understandable, you are doing it!
Thanks!
thanks Dan. I dont work on my cars a lot so reviewing your videos really helps.
That was the quickest and fastest shave I've ever seen! :)
I know a few ladies from Argentina who grow their pubic hair as soon as winter starts and as soon as spring again everything will be neat and smooth again !!
The Magic of video 🤣
Wish I knew those ladies I’d trim them free of charge
It was only a trim!!
best video on fuel trim ,this time i understud this fuel trim, Thanks,God bless you,you are a treasure for this tech diagnose sector!
I never knew this was so simple. You really made it very simple for anyone you to understand it. I kept pushing back learning about it as I felt it may be complex
Most basic possible explanation of trims- hardly any "meat" on the bone. Does a great job, as usual, presenting a topic and explaining it
Yet another great video from DD, love to watch them. Very clear and easy going, calm and explains well. very interesting stuff as well. Any chance you could make a short video of your tech tools, with a quick explanation of their pros and cons?
Looking forward for your next video, and great to see you are doing well.
very good video i am a mekanik of 3 year and this is the first time i finly understand fuel trims correct :)
Great!
MY DEAR FRIEND, WE WISH CHRIST IS RISEN AND EVERY FAMILY HAPPINESS. I AM AN ENGINEER FROM GREECE AND I WATCH YOUR VIDEOS.YOU HAVE REALLY HELPED ME VERY MUCH IN THE DIAGNOSIS OF TROUBLES. CONTINUE TO GIVE US YOUR KNOWLEDGEI WILL WATCH YOUR VIDEOS WITH CARE. SORRY BUT I DO NOT SPEAK ENGLISH SO I TRANSLATE MY TEXTS .CONTINUE THE GOOD WORK YOU ARE DOING. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. DIMITRIS GREECE.
23-03-19 Dan you are the MAN !!!! thanks for teaching us!!
I caught the mouse!
Understanding the fuel trim is the basis for the correct diagnosis of automotive engine malfunctions.
This mouse confused me so much!
Thanks Dan.
I am at an age where I trained on carbs and banks of carbs on cars and bikes so this is easy for me to understand.
Trying to bring my knowledge up to date the hardest problem is understanding the terms.
I had heard the term " fuel trim " a few times but now understand it's just what we called mixture.
definitely helped me understand how a vacuum line leak can affect the idle of a care. I had a guy let me use his 1996 Cadillac Deville but it was overheating after driving it 10 miles. in the weeks that I was replacing the clogged purge line to the radiator purge tank and found 3 obstructions in the line. In the process, I had to replace the water pump housing, and while I had it apart, I saw several things that were probably causes of high idle and the car running at high operating temperatures. I found myself cleaning the EGR valve and the throttle body, which had black carbon build up, probably due to the PCV valve not only being bad but the rubber grommet it fits in being old and loose as well as the 90 degree boots that connect to the intake and to the PCV. I found myself looking at the TPS and the IAV; the idle air flow valve (motor) was really bad and I used Berryman carb cleaner to clean, not only the IAV but also the port it sits in and cleaning the MAS. The high idle was definitely, in part, causing the car to run at a high temperature. The guy came and took it a few weeks later, about the time I was getting it to run decent enough to drive to town and back without it overheating. Seems like the only one who really got helped was the 96 DeVille.
In the end, it need the IAV and there was a vacuum line, I think it was the OBD II Purge switch connected to the EVAP CNST Purge Sol Vlv, it had a missing vacuum line I couldn't figure out where it went. I removed the EVAP Canister to see if it was built up with dirt. There are three lines that connect to it: one tot he fuel tank and one to the EVAP Sol Vlv and not sure where the third was supposed to connect but I was thinking maybe it broke before it made it back up into the engine compartment and went to the switch behind the EVAP Sol valve; one of the vacuum lines from the EVAP Solenoid valve had a T and it connected to this switch that sits behind it and also routs to the intake cover where there is a nipple to connect the vacuum line to; right next to it is the vacuum line that goes to the PCV. The idle was still slightly high when the guy came and took it, and I'm not sure if it really was a bad IAV or if it was because of the one vacuum line I didn't get the chance to chase down and reconnect, but I'm certain it would run cooler as it should if I were able to fix the slightly high idle.
If this made any sense, I would certainly like your feedback. I never was able to identify this switch that the EVAP Solenoid valve connects to and no parts place like NAPA or Auto Zone or O'Reilly's were able to find it, but when I look up a diagram on google for the vacuum system for this 1996 Cadillac DeVille I am seeing the OBD II Purge Switch. From all my time under the hood looking for causes for the overheating, the diagram looks right for the vacuum system on it except the EVAP anister that sits behind the driver's back wheel behind the fender wall has 3 lines. one definitely to the fuel tank since it's the only one with a clamp on the hose and then one that must be going to the EVAP Tank canister and then discharges in the intake, but the third line, coming to or from the EVAP canister seems more of an outlet separate from the other half of the canister; I was able to blow air through the other two to blow out dirt from this one.
The diagram I found on Google seems to be incomplete and doesn't show this line. This may be a car that you don't have there but thought maybe you may have an idea of what I am missing on the vacuum line schematic.
Thanks for sharing your diagnostic skills!
I struggled to understand this concept, now you made me wonder what's so complex in it 😅
Thanks, it's well understood now.🎉
I love your electronics wisdom and knowledge you are absolutely a legend
now i understand what means short and long term trim.And what is negative and positive add.
Thank you again Dan 👍🏻
Thank you for this. I've been looking for explanation of these fuel trims and this just did the job perfectly well
Good explanation Third video on fuel trim I have watched and the only one that really made sense. I used to have to manually adjust my carburetors in the 1950's and 1960's so that carburetor comparison was an "A-Ha" for my old brain (over 80 now). I'm now a new subscriber.
Great to see a new DD video! Thanks for the great explanation of fuel trims!!!
My pleasure!
You are the best on how things work, thank you.
The fuel trims are one of the most helpful diagnostic values!
You are right!
Dan you are best of the best you deserve a million subscribers very soon you be there your experience and clear explanation is very clear
the date is 23/03/19, Best automotive repair videos on YT! thank you Dan!
nice explanation dan. remember folks if you are going off what the computer says make sure the o2's are working correctly first. been bit by this before.
You are right Richard! 👍👍
Thank you for clear my doubts about fuel trims
Thank you dan!! You explained fuel trims alot better that my instructor!
Thank you so much DiagnoseDan! Now I can explain it to my son who is interested in taking over my place as a mechanic.
Are you a mechanic?
That's great!
First reg is 23-03-2019 . truly enjoyed his videos , thank Dan
That's great to hear Pieter!
23.3.2019.
Ty man, learning so much.
Thank you sir. Now I understand more how the system works. Appreciated.
First reg. date 01-05-2019
Thanks for your great job.
You are awesome 👍🏻
You couldn’t have been clearer. After this video I have a better of picture of what my car is going through. Thank you
23-03-19.....Love the explanation DD! Fuel trim understanding is so critical to good diagnosis these days.
You are right!
Yesterday the Date of First Registration on the DD-TSB Demo was 23/03/2019. Today the DD-TSB Demo version is showing a First Registration Date of 27/03/2019. So, I am going with the date showing today - 27/03/2019. Thanks for the incredible contributions you are making to the automotive community. Hope DDTSB will be a huge success, you certainly deserve it to be. I wish you all the best.
Thanks Martin!
Diagnose Dan = The Man. Your DDTSB sounds really good.
The only channel i give thumbs up before watching the video
What is the reason if ltft is jumping istantly from +3 to +12 when I adding rev to the engine? Why did it changes so quickly?
Any check engine light? Possibly bad o2 sensor?
Thanks from across the pond for the great explanation.
Thank you very much 👍
Hi Dan I have been working on a 2009 mini with code p0420 could you explain how it’s possible to have fuel trim numbers adding up to 2 but on the gas test co was 1500 hc was 285 and lambda was 967. All bad but good FT and new b1s1 o2 fitted. Tia
Registration date is 23-03-2019. Thanks for all your clear and informative videos.
Thanks Nick
I love you ..mr.dan .. I learned a lot through the videos that you make on the RUclips .Thank you . Im from iraq .
My pleasure!
27-03-2019
Keep going with all these nice training videos.
Greetings from Greece!
Thanks!
Brilliant lesson, keeping an open mind is always key, in the 90 s a customer complained about poor fuel economy on a vehicle under warranty, it was also factory dual fuel, (LPG) after checking fuel trims there was no evidence of excessive fuel consumption on petrol, but having faith in customer it turned out OEM was allowing petrol to be injected whilst on LPG TO cool the cylinders and exhaust valves but it did not show and there was no technical release of this in any literature, only after my persistent harassing the tech support did they admit to it and release a TSB stating this
Great job!
This was so helpful. Thank you for this video.
You deserve millions of subscribers and likes. 👍🏻
First registration 23/03/2019
Thanks!
Considered myself educated on fuel trim Dan your instruction where easy to follow big thumbs up :-)
That's great to hear! Thanks for watching 👍
You're doing great work Dan.
Thanks! Great to see you here again!
23-03-2019
Thank you Dan for your videos ❤️
😁👍
23-03-19 , another great video Dan can’t wait to get the tsb and watch more training videos 👍
Thanks Anthony!
Nice video dan😍
23/03/2019 23rd September 2019 is the date of registration of the vehicle. Great video DAN. You are an encyclopaedia.
🤣Thanks!
23.03.2019...thanks again for your work. The day starts great with your video.
That's great to hear!
On the early FI GM cars it was called block learn and integrator. Before that on the 3C carburetors the ideal number was 28-32 at idle. So many cars would come into the shop with low float levels and idle mix screws off that we’d have to do a set them up all over again. We would adjust for the 28-32 using idle mix screws and the MC solenoid upper and lower limit as well as travel distance between the two on the metering control rods. A tiny bit higher float level would help the cars have really good acceleration at full throttle when the 4 barrel secondary metering rods would get pulled up.
Eerste inschrijving vond plaats op 23/03/2019
Geweldige video's, Heel erg bedankt, je bent de beste.
nice job on explaining fuel trims in a down to earth way the answer is : 23-03-2019
Thanks and good luck with the giveaway Glen!
Great training video Dan
The answer is 24-03-2019. Great video about Fuel Trims!
Thanks!
Should the trims increase when you accelerating (not flooring)?
I need DDTSB in my life
@Diagnosedan Hi Dan, I have an issue in my diesel VW Tiguan 2011 with engine light coming on and off and this issue is related to EGR. I had the issue checked and all except one mechanic is suggesting EGR valve change. The one that does not suggest that is saying that are some plastic hoses that are connected to EGR which are loose and need to be checked. The mechanic had only the diagnose tool with him and no shop or place to check it him self. If you could suggest any thing it would be appreciated
👍ddtsb. What a plethora of information
Great video, Danny!
23/03/19. Another amazing video, I have learnt so much from watching these great videos you make, thank you.
That's great to hear Michael
you are the tecnisian ever
😁👍
First reg is 23-03-2019. You the man, Dan!
Thanks!
Date of first registration is 11-04-2019
Keep up the good work👍
Finally new video. You are the best of the best
Thanks!
Very clear explanation, thank you for that! I was wondering since yet some time what short-term & long-term fuel trim referred to. Enjoyed the reference to a carburetor, though imho most carburetors were somewhat more tricky to adjust than in your exemple.
I was wondering whether the short-term & long-term fuel trim idea also applies to diesel engines (I guess yes) and how to look for it with VCDS (say on a 1.4l diesel 9N3 Polo). If you or someone else here has the answer, please let me know.
Once again thank you for the quality content and for educating me!
Thanks for watching Serban
I need help. Trying to figure it why my moms Scion is running so poorly. She’s getting lean codes, a constant cyl 2 misfire with brand new plugs and coil packs. Her STFT stays pretty constant around -4% but her long term is 13.8 and then goes to 7.8. Any suggestions? I’ll gonna spray some break clean in some areas to see if I’ve got leaks. Her car has 348,xxx miles!!
Great vid!👍 I get an po107 code but here’s the kicker. I get it every year on my 08 pont vibe. I have absolutely no symptoms-runs like a charm! And it only happens in the winter! Goes away or I clear it in spring and doesn’t come back till following winter! No leaks, chkd maf sensor. I’m suspecting poss cloggd gas filter or maybe the fuel injectors. But No symptoms at all. Any advice.
Thx
Do you always get a code thrown? I’m thinking my vehicle is definitely using way too much fuel even under low loads, no codes though …checked air cleaner and map sensor been cleaned. I can only think to clean the fuel system with cleaner ( gasoline)
Odd, I get a different date from others: 17/04/2019. Anyway, another great video! Fuel trim analysis is so powerful.
Thank you for sharing. Great video.
Thanks for watching Mike!
I watched your other video regarding pulse width 🤔 starting to get it now .. thank you.
So… does the injector use pulse width to time the injectors ?im thinking definitely yes. Is that correct
Dan, you had an excellent explanation of this subject. What parts would increase the fuel economy more? replacing all four oxygen sensors or replacing the I.A.C.(Idle Air Control)valve and T.P.S.? the vehicle is a 2001 Chevrolet Express 3500 5.7L. Thank you
This guy is a genius.
Another great video Dan, keep up the good work!
Thanks Jack!
23/03/2019 - Diagnose Dan Des it again - Great vid Dan - Nice to see you again
Thanks for watching and good luck with the giveaway!
Your a great teacher Dan as always
Thank you
Hi Dan,
First and foremost thanks for sharing your experience with us and I am sure that 'diagnosedan fix it again ' did not come without a reason. 23.03.2019 is the answer!
Thanks!
First registr.date: 23-03-2019
Great service you have created, Dan! Always big thanks for educational videos, they are fantastic. One thing I wanted to suggest: DDTSB is meant for shops with various clientele to help with diagnosis and tech support. It would be great if there was a limited subscription to DDTSB for us home users and DIY'ers. We may not need access to immediate tech support, but educational videos as well as access to things to help us diagnose our own cars would be immensely helpful. And we will also be contributing something to this great system. Thanks again!
Thanks for the feedback, but we have desided not to do this.
So far schrodingersbox has the best explanation for fuel trims, waiting for your video :)
After the video, Dan going to have the best explanation for fuel trims 🤣
Yes I agree. Schrodingersbox has a series of videos that are really good and go into more depth than Dan did in this video.
Yes, RUclips is a great source of knowledge and there are some very gifted people on it!
My long term fuel trim is in the negative at idle, is that normal? I can send my log data if need to look further
Thanks for sharing Dan... Wish you the best of success with DDTSB. Cheers.
Thank you very much 👍
Hi Dan,
I owned a 2006 MB R-350 gasoline engine. It can not start since the last time it started and stalled after it was running for about 10 seconds. I lived in Canada and the weather now is up and down between -10 to -20. Any help thank.
Hi Dan! Thank you for posting such a great and educational content! I wish you very best and for your family!
One idea for video topic - Car electric schemes and how to read them/approach them.
Thanks for you comment 👍 i've got a long to do list and i'll add wiring diagrams to that!
Thank you for the simple explanation Dan. Car first reg on the 23/03/2019. Keep those quality videos coming please. Stay safe, stay healthy, kind regards from Galway, Ireland 😉👍
I have visited Galway, i had a great time!
@@Diagnosedan Next time you head this way shout out in advance 😉👍
Nice one! To add this as you say you work mostly on EU cars you could add the VAG way of showing Idel and Parcel fuel trims, with specified and Actual lambda numpers.
For example today i fixed P2187 (System too lean at Idle) +25% idel mixture and actual lambda was still 1.190 on idel with specified of 1.000.
Breathervalve drop the numbers to +4,6% and lambda to 1.000 at idle. ..After test run car had passed all its EOBD readyness test fully, without any errors.
Great fix! Of course we have a bulletin for this in DDTSB
@@Diagnosedan I may try it as my self before i "Sell it to my Boss's" so what is the VAT? is it 1% 10% 19 % 24% 50%....?
Nice to see you back Dan! the answer is 23-03-2019
Good luck with the giveaway!
I have a 2012 Buick enclave..on cold starts it idles very rough for about 10/15 seconds then idles down nicely..I am getting on bank 2 short term and long fuel trims of negative 100%
.any thoughts, bad fuel injectors, bad oxygen sensor or big vacuum leaks. I have no codes
Great content, Dan! The answer is current date - 2 years (or 24-03-2019 for today).
😁💪
So if I have a positive short trim of 5% and a negative -6% long term trim is that within the margins and ok then?
EH Dan (EH is Canadian for Hi) I was at the Pub recently and telling the guys they should tune into your channel; I told them your were the best student I ever had, and, that it only took some ten minutes to teach you everything I know!!
That said I see your adventure is not hobbyist inclined, yes I feel slighted.
Here the fee would come to a cost of $544.15. My point is can you not make room for the hobbyist that say has one or two German cars? Lets not forget we also need equipment to be able to translate effectively our troubleshooting.
Having said that I know the cost are very inexpensive for commercial rates however, for the fellows not in business who may only use the service once or twice a year yet still gain advantage through your teachings, would likely want to have an option B.
By the way Dan how are the wife and kids?
Fortunately the kids and wife are fine, thanks for asking!
Unfortunately we only offer the full package.
Thanks that's my favorite channel
Thanks!
With the Bosch K type fuel injection system, they had a mixture adjustment in the air flow meter. My own car has this system. The best way to adjust this is by using a "colourtune" tool. This device is put into one of the spark plug holes, & tightened like a normal spark plug. The mixture is then adjusted until a pale blue flame is seen in the colourtune.
I am VERY well versed in the K-Jetronic systems... and I have never heard of this. Probably because what you said makes absolutely NO sense.
@@Johnathan_Waters this obviously tells me you have never worked on a 1976 Mercedes Benz with this fuel injection system. Before you start saying what I stated makes no sense, you obviously know very little about them. One of my mates has a 1980 Mercedes Benz with the k type jetronic fuel injection system fitted and the mixture can be adjusted. I uses to repair the older Mercedes Benz cars for a living. I also repair other European makes too, and most of the fuel injection systems they had were adjustable mixture. Maybe you should visit me, and I'll slow you how this is done.
Never heard of this before, but we all learn new things every Day!
@@Johnathan_Waters it does, at least on older cars.
@@christophermarshall5765 Yes, I get it. You're talking about "tuning" based on running the engine, and then taking the spark plugs out and reading them, correct??