Thank you for making this video!! Had the SAME issues with my Dodge Ram Hemi. Was able to easily locate, remove and replace the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. I used long-nose pliers to easily remove the sensor.
I had this issue with my 2010 ram 5.7 hemi. I changed both cam and crank sensors but was still going into limp mode. I talked to 2 mechanics at 2 dodge dealers who wanted $135 to scan it and hope it came Bach with something. Then I talked to my local mechanic who told me the sensors needed to be resynced and offered to do it at no charge! Problem fixed it's been a week now with no issues
Thankyou so much. You made my job easy. I have a 03 2500 5.7. i didn't have to take off the air box inlet. The hardest part was lining up the the hole with the screw to put ot back in. Thanks agian.
I believe that a PO340 and a PO344 code both would indicate this as a position sensor problem. My truck would quit after I shut it down, but then would not start no matter how much cranking you did with the battery. After a bit though it would finally fire up and run like a top. It did this twice last week and was frustrating as hell at the time. Looks like I will be doing this swap soon. Code readers sure are helpful to have. I have run into some parts places where they claim they can't legally clear a code. They can run a scan, but can't clear all the codes afterwards.
Good video, had this issue with my 03 2500. Blind area ,but not a hard replacement. Like. The fact the engine would run not well but got me home. Til I fixed sensor. This has been a good truck.
also.. if you don't have a code reader, you can turn the key 3 times on-off (not fully, only to the accessory position and leaving it at the accessory position on the 3rd turn) and it will show the "P" code on the odometer, then show "done" when complete. You can't clear it, only see the code being thrown.
thankyou!! i was about to pay the dealership $500 because I tought it was the key that had to be reprogram. changed the sensor and it turned on with the first crank.
On the corner of the valve cover there is a weird looking plug which holds the wiring harness into place there. I believe this is the area where you showed that there was a ground wire loose in your video. i do not with to snap off that plastic plug, but it has my wiring harness held so tight that I really can't get to that 10 mm bolt to remove the camshaft position sensor. How do those type of plugs work in being properly removed? Never mind, I went to a parts house and found a tool to remove that plug with. It will likely be a one use tool, but probably cheaper to get one on Ebay than at a local auto parts house. It is called Clip Removal Pliers. They worked great once I found exactly where to push them in. My trouble now is removal of that pigtail that connects to the camshaft position sensor. I have not been able to separate them, yet. It got dark so I will be finishing this up tomorrow.
Old mechanic told me that a flat blade screwdriver will likely break it, especially if the truck is older. Suggested to use Clip Removal Pliers from Advanced Auto or such. $23 bucks for an essential one use tool, but it worked like champ when I figured out where to insert it and how to avoid all the wiring in the way. (You can likely pick one up on Ebay much cheaper). I had to get over the engine from the front in order to put this tool onto that plug. Any rate, the wiring was so very tight and right in front of that camshaft position sensor that I could not get at the thing until I got that plug removed. It is actually a rubber piece slid over a metal stud on the valve cover. You could likely use a straight slot screwdriver, but my luck would be that it would break on me. I took out the 10 mm bolt okay, but separating that pig tail from the position sensor is a real frickin' challenge, for sure. Not sure just how that pigtail is supposed to be released, but it took super strength to do the job and separate the two. It got dark on me before I could insert the new position sensor, so I will have to continue tomorrow to get it all back together again. This video really did help me though. I did use the dielectric grease on the rubber seal and i hope I have no issues in reinserting it all and locking it down tomorrow. I am hoping that cures my stalling problem, as this happened earlier today and scared the poop out of me, as you lose all power steering and simply coast for a short distance. Cars parked all about the curb, so I had to try to make it around a turn, but the truck died completely and it took maybe 50 cranks before it turned back on as if nothing had happened. I caught every darn red light on the way home and sweated getting back before it did it again. This sensor had been throwing out a PO340 code. Hoping this cures the issue.
Thanks for sharing Daniel. I had to replace my Camshaft Position Sensor recently and this video was my guide on how to do it. I have a 2016 Ram 1500 5.7 Big Horn and your instructions worked perfectly for my year, make and model.
Thought about doing it but what i get is a misfire on cylinder 6 after changing coil , sparks plugs and fuel injector. Im stuck now not knowing what to do. Got a scan from a mechanic and still nothing
Great helpful video. Thank you. Don't you hate when someone works on your vehicle and either leaves stuff off or not connected. I'm curious on the broken valve spring, what were your symptoms? Having rough idle when warm on 2012 Jeep with the 5.7 with no check engine light.
Broken valve spring usually gives misfire and low compression on compression check. But, usually you have to pull the valve cover and visually inspect to make sure. If it's broken, the valve cover is coming off anyway.
I have an 06 durango and the camshaft sensor keeps going bad. I’ve had to replace it 3 times with the duralast brand from autozone in less than 6 months. I finally installed an oem camshaft sensor that lasted longer than the duralast brand and I recently started having the same problem again. Im beginning to think i have a wiring issue. I’ve heard many mechanics say that Dodge is known to have electrical problems.
I have a question. my 2009 Dodge Ram hemi drives great! But when I come to a stop, it drops in idle to 500rpm evenly every time (unless my a/c is on which is weird). BUT I can give it just a touch on the gas with out moving, and it corrects itself to 700.. it shifts great, runs strong and sounds healthy. It’s stalled a few times since I’ve owned it. I’ve replaced the MAP sensor and no luck. And cleaned the throttle body and no luck. Any suggestions? I might try to clean the throttle body a little more..
Been having the same problem I've changed about everything I could even had to replace the whole engine so I have no idea maybe it has to do with something in the transmission? Oh and the idle is supposed to be 500-900 rpm at idle on a stock 5.7 hemi.
I have a 2009 5.7 hemi and been having issues where my park idle is at 500rpms and when I'm driving up the mountain truck stays at 2000rpms and won't go past 40mph unless I floor it. It shifts smooth on flat surface, but higher rpms like I'm not getting a connection or something. It's so strange. I read that this sensor can cause this issue that I'm having. I'm not stalling out though, and no rough idle.
I've had the same exact issue with my 2006 ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi. Something that helped was changing the thermostat oddly enough. Before I changed my thermostat, the previous one was installed and correctly and my gauge would run somewhere halfway between the full spectrum of the full spectrum of the gauge. After I changed my thermostat, it would go up to about 1/4 of the full spectrum of the gauge and maintains that temperature constantly and The truck began idling around 600 RPM after the thermostat change.
I am getting the long crank symptom on my 2008 Dodge Ram, but its not throwing any codes. Did you have the same symptom without any codes being generated?
of all the videos over seen little long but I guess its me inpatient but, LOVED YOUR EXPLATION show's all angles just what I need ed learning so I can help my son but my straight is the same love mechanic ..thkyou
2007 1500 5.7 dodge I did timing chain oil pump n cam sensor n when I go 75 or so it stutters and it doesn't shift out of 2gear it came back with scanner that it was my cam but it's brand new wat u think
My 06 ram 3500 hemi seems like it has rpm problems. I’ve replaced every part that usually causes rpm surges and low idling and truck still does it. Seems to run fine but rpms seem to be inaccurate. I’ll be going 50mph and rpms show it to be at 800rpms. Also sometimes has s problem accelerating. Could this be causing it?
In looking up replacement position sensor for my '04 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi, I found that at all the local parts stores, bar none, the aftermarket position sensors were rated as pure junk in most cases. The failed right out of the box or very quickly after installation and seemed to lack quality control for the part. Most of those rating them went back to the stock MoPar part and had no further issues once they replaced this part. I'd hate to install this and only find it to fail shortly afterwards, but that is how 99% or those who did this rated the aftermarket parts, no matter which of the three brands were used as a replacement. Thanks for the video as it looks like the typical old fart can actually do this and probably have the most difficulty in just finding a good step stool to use to get up there and work. Not sure if the DL grease is actually any better on those plastic contacts than contact spray would be. The stuff would work well as to the plastic body as you used it. Any rate, I enjoyed the video and was appreciative that you ended up with just enough lighting in the video to actually show the part location and all.
Did you just make that up? Most aftermarket parts are just as good and many times are better than oem. OEM parts are made as cheap as possible to increase profits.
So i got the same code for my 11 dodge charger. Plus like you said i do have to step on the accelerator in ordered for the car to start. And also my traction controll light came on and woulnt go away. It came on when my check engin light came at the same time..
A couple of days ago I took my truck to the car wash well it shot off in the car wash I then took it to auto zone it said censer misfire then i took it too my mechanic he said it was my radiator he change my radiator the other day while driving to Fayetteville it was raining really hard and my truck stalled again do you by any chance know what that could be
Hi my 2006 Dodge Charger rt 5.7 has been randomly stalling it cranks right back up when no problem then sometimes when I’m driving it will cut off then come back on could this fix my problem I Got new spark plugs through the dealership and they changed one coil but it stills does it please HELP!!!!
Mine did the same it turned out to be my spark plugs. Since you bought new spark plugs then that’s not your problem. You can also try changing your MAP sensor, or Camshaft Position Sensor, if it’s not those then honestly it could be your ECM. Or TCM, BUT do not change either right away because it will cost a lot
I have the same year and model, I changed my ECM, and TCM and it continued to stall. I changed my spark plugs and MAP sensor, it didn’t do it as often but it will randomly cut off and on while driving but it stopped stalling out completely.
So Exxxtra , it’s your fuel pump... Trust me.. People think that when your fuel pump goes out it won’t start, which is true, but in some cases the fuel pump WEAKENS causing to turn on and then cut off while you’re driving, they ignore the fact that sometimes the fuel pump weakens not going out in it’s entirely...
I want to know as well mine won’t start I’ve put a second sensor now after 2 days of no start figuring first one was defective but still no goddamn start
I have the exact same issue....and I am still getting the P0340 error code after replacing it. I used an aftermarket sensor...may be the issue, I had to replace the oil sender switch, used an aftermarket one, and was not working, replaced that with OEM and its all working correctly. May be the camshaft sensor is the same, has to be OEM.
@@ichorwolf1531 let me know if you go to an OEM sensor...I am probably leaning towards that way. IF I change it and have better results I will post results too
@@ichorwolf1531 OK....great news tonight....so I went to the local dealer, got a new OEM camshaft position sensor, replaced that tonight, and all my codes are gone, including the ESP light being on. Checked my code reader, and nothing ....i started right up, no extra cranking like it had been doing...and it sounds great. Tomorrow I will take it to work and test run it....but things look good at the moment.
Not sure of the year, but his airbox has 5.7 Hemi on it. Regardless of the year, most of the camshaft sensors will be located in and around the location he shows on his truck. I have a 2006 Dodge Magnum 5.7 Hemi, camshaft sensor is the same location. 2.7L and 3.5L Chargers, Magnums, and 300's will be different.
Not positive but I think that particular sensor gets a 1/4 turn counterclockwise to remove. That might have been why it wasn't cooperating. Then again, nothing ever does cooperate!
It did fix the problem, and I usually purchase parts from Autozone to keep all my lifetime warranties in one place. But I also frequent every other parts store and lately... their customer service has been considerably better that Autozone.
@@larrynance1269 I parked my truck after a long drive, the next morning I had this crank/no start issue. Did you have any warning signs or did it just fail? Thank you for your reply. It helps me to understand what I am in for if the cam sensor replacement doesn't cure the issue.
Couldn't figure out why he would want to introduce silicone into the cam lobe lubrication system. Thought i was the only one that thought that was weird. Don't think he knows what dielectric grease is for.
The dielectric grease is for the connector, not the sensor itself. Lube it with engine oil. If it's stuck when removing then use a flat blade screwdriver and attempt to twist it around a little to break it loose and then wiggle it out once it spins some. Spin it a little clockwise and counterclockwise (in any order).
I have 2010 hemi ram1500 Engine ligth came when i got scanned. It shows this can anyone tell me tht what shoul i do? P0016 Generic Crankshaft-Position - Camshaft Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor A
That "Hemi hat" intake resonator is supposed to be like that. Odd design. It's just 2 bolts in front and the rest is just press fit onto the throttle body with a silicone donut looking seal.
Why can't you explain that you do not advertise the fact that the drivers side , which is bank 1, is much harder and you need to remove the alternator to replace the camshaft position sensor
On the magnum the cmp is located on the back of the block near the flywheel 6 hours later I have it out. Maybe 6 more hours I will have the new one in.
Great step by step instructions. I changed mine out today in my 2004 Dodge Ram Hemi in about 35 minutes. Runs like new again!
Did your light go off, my light is on?
Thank you for making this video!! Had the SAME issues with my Dodge Ram Hemi. Was able to easily locate, remove and replace the Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor. I used long-nose pliers to easily remove the sensor.
Thank You!
I had this issue with my 2010 ram 5.7 hemi. I changed both cam and crank sensors but was still going into limp mode. I talked to 2 mechanics at 2 dodge dealers who wanted $135 to scan it and hope it came Bach with something. Then I talked to my local mechanic who told me the sensors needed to be resynced and offered to do it at no charge! Problem fixed it's been a week now with no issues
How did you resync the sensors? Is there a video on such?
What code were you getting?
Resync? Sounds like bs...
@@michaelhakes5845 well he did it for free so it doesn’t matter
What were your symptoms?
Thankyou so much. You made my job easy. I have a 03 2500 5.7. i didn't have to take off the air box inlet. The hardest part was lining up the the hole with the screw to put ot back in. Thanks agian.
I believe that a PO340 and a PO344 code both would indicate this as a position sensor problem. My truck would quit after I shut it down, but then would not start no matter how much cranking you did with the battery. After a bit though it would finally fire up and run like a top. It did this twice last week and was frustrating as hell at the time. Looks like I will be doing this swap soon. Code readers sure are helpful to have. I have run into some parts places where they claim they can't legally clear a code. They can run a scan, but can't clear all the codes afterwards.
Good video. Watched it twice and repeated your steps. Seems like it worked out fine. Thanks for the help.
Good video, had this issue with my 03 2500. Blind area ,but not a hard replacement. Like. The fact the engine would run not well but got me home. Til I fixed sensor. This has been a good truck.
Your the greatest, I installed the new sensor with no problems. 😅😊
also.. if you don't have a code reader, you can turn the key 3 times on-off (not fully, only to the accessory position and leaving it at the accessory position on the 3rd turn) and it will show the "P" code on the odometer, then show "done" when complete. You can't clear it, only see the code being thrown.
You mean the on position not accessory.
Thank you for sharing this instructive video. It is incredibly informative and it saved me over a thousand dollars for a dealer repair.
thankyou!! i was about to pay the dealership $500 because I tought it was the key that had to be reprogram. changed the sensor and it turned on with the first crank.
Was your can a crank no start
On the corner of the valve cover there is a weird looking plug which holds the wiring harness into place there. I believe this is the area where you showed that there was a ground wire loose in your video. i do not with to snap off that plastic plug, but it has my wiring harness held so tight that I really can't get to that 10 mm bolt to remove the camshaft position sensor. How do those type of plugs work in being properly removed? Never mind, I went to a parts house and found a tool to remove that plug with. It will likely be a one use tool, but probably cheaper to get one on Ebay than at a local auto parts house. It is called Clip Removal Pliers. They worked great once I found exactly where to push them in. My trouble now is removal of that pigtail that connects to the camshaft position sensor. I have not been able to separate them, yet. It got dark so I will be finishing this up tomorrow.
Is this piece actually just pressed into place? Will a flat blade screwdriver lift it out?
Old mechanic told me that a flat blade screwdriver will likely break it, especially if the truck is older. Suggested to use Clip Removal Pliers from Advanced Auto or such. $23 bucks for an essential one use tool, but it worked like champ when I figured out where to insert it and how to avoid all the wiring in the way. (You can likely pick one up on Ebay much cheaper). I had to get over the engine from the front in order to put this tool onto that plug. Any rate, the wiring was so very tight and right in front of that camshaft position sensor that I could not get at the thing until I got that plug removed. It is actually a rubber piece slid over a metal stud on the valve cover. You could likely use a straight slot screwdriver, but my luck would be that it would break on me. I took out the 10 mm bolt okay, but separating that pig tail from the position sensor is a real frickin' challenge, for sure. Not sure just how that pigtail is supposed to be released, but it took super strength to do the job and separate the two. It got dark on me before I could insert the new position sensor, so I will have to continue tomorrow to get it all back together again. This video really did help me though. I did use the dielectric grease on the rubber seal and i hope I have no issues in reinserting it all and locking it down tomorrow. I am hoping that cures my stalling problem, as this happened earlier today and scared the poop out of me, as you lose all power steering and simply coast for a short distance. Cars parked all about the curb, so I had to try to make it around a turn, but the truck died completely and it took maybe 50 cranks before it turned back on as if nothing had happened. I caught every darn red light on the way home and sweated getting back before it did it again. This sensor had been throwing out a PO340 code. Hoping this cures the issue.
Thanks for sharing Daniel. I had to replace my Camshaft Position Sensor recently and this video was my guide on how to do it. I have a 2016 Ram 1500 5.7 Big Horn and your instructions worked perfectly for my year, make and model.
Thought about doing it but what i get is a misfire on cylinder 6 after changing coil , sparks plugs and fuel injector. Im stuck now not knowing what to do. Got a scan from a mechanic and still nothing
Great helpful video. Thank you. Don't you hate when someone works on your vehicle and either leaves stuff off or not connected. I'm curious on the broken valve spring, what were your symptoms? Having rough idle when warm on 2012 Jeep with the 5.7 with no check engine light.
Broken valve spring usually gives misfire and low compression on compression check. But, usually you have to pull the valve cover and visually inspect to make sure. If it's broken, the valve cover is coming off anyway.
Thank you!!! I have been trying to find this video for a week now. I knew the problem but couldn’t find the location!!! Thanks man!!!
I have an 06 durango and the camshaft sensor keeps going bad. I’ve had to replace it 3 times with the duralast brand from autozone in less than 6 months. I finally installed an oem camshaft sensor that lasted longer than the duralast brand and I recently started having the same problem again. Im beginning to think i have a wiring issue. I’ve heard many mechanics say that Dodge is known to have electrical problems.
my 4th video I watched -- BEST ONE YET -- THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME :)
GOOD VID!!! I WULDA TRIED SCANNING & STARTIN TH TRUCK 2 SEE IF TH CODE DISAPPEARED B4 I CLEARED
IT BUT, VERY NICE!!!
Thank You saved me several hundreds of $$$$$dollars.
Thank you ours just went out this will help a lot
Nice thorough description and fix. Thanks!
Thank You!
GREAT VIDEO FROM THE STATE OF PA
I have a question. my 2009 Dodge Ram hemi drives great! But when I come to a stop, it drops in idle to 500rpm evenly every time
(unless my a/c is on which is weird).
BUT I can give it just a touch on the gas with out moving, and it corrects itself to 700..
it shifts great, runs strong and sounds healthy.
It’s stalled a few times since I’ve owned it.
I’ve replaced the MAP sensor and no luck. And cleaned the throttle body and no luck.
Any suggestions? I might try to clean the throttle body a little more..
Been having the same problem I've changed about everything I could even had to replace the whole engine so I have no idea maybe it has to do with something in the transmission? Oh and the idle is supposed to be 500-900 rpm at idle on a stock 5.7 hemi.
I have a 2009 5.7 hemi and been having issues where my park idle is at 500rpms and when I'm driving up the mountain truck stays at 2000rpms and won't go past 40mph unless I floor it. It shifts smooth on flat surface, but higher rpms like I'm not getting a connection or something. It's so strange. I read that this sensor can cause this issue that I'm having. I'm not stalling out though, and no rough idle.
I've had the same exact issue with my 2006 ram 1500 with a 5.7 hemi. Something that helped was changing the thermostat oddly enough. Before I changed my thermostat, the previous one was installed and correctly and my gauge would run somewhere halfway between the full spectrum of the full spectrum of the gauge. After I changed my thermostat, it would go up to about 1/4 of the full spectrum of the gauge and maintains that temperature constantly and The truck began idling around 600 RPM after the thermostat change.
I am getting the long crank symptom on my 2008 Dodge Ram, but its not throwing any codes. Did you have the same symptom without any codes being generated?
Thanks for the help, your video walked me through it.
what brand code reader, I couldn't catch it in the video as were moving right along. thanks for informative vid
of all the videos over seen little long but I guess its me inpatient but, LOVED YOUR EXPLATION show's all angles just what I need ed learning so I can help my son but my straight is the same love mechanic ..thkyou
keep up the good info brother, thanks
2007 1500 5.7 dodge I did timing chain oil pump n cam sensor n when I go 75 or so it stutters and it doesn't shift out of 2gear it came back with scanner that it was my cam but it's brand new wat u think
Pretty safe to say you should change these before they go bad (if you have the extra cash). just look at it.
Great video very descriptive
Thank you
Thank for the good information
Thanks for the video 👍 Can you tell me how do I check the time no on a 2004 Dodge Ram hemi? Thanks
My 06 ram 3500 hemi seems like it has rpm problems. I’ve replaced every part that usually causes rpm surges and low idling and truck still does it. Seems to run fine but rpms seem to be inaccurate. I’ll be going 50mph and rpms show it to be at 800rpms. Also sometimes has s problem accelerating. Could this be causing it?
I have po0340 code does that cause engine to die while driving ? Or just fix problem when it cranks no start.
Just replaced mine on 2012 Ram. Didn't have to take any parts off to get to it. Half hour job
joe king is it in the same position as this video?
I have 12 ram 5.7
thanks Danny
Great video 👍🏼
In looking up replacement position sensor for my '04 Dodge Ram 1500 Hemi, I found that at all the local parts stores, bar none, the aftermarket position sensors were rated as pure junk in most cases. The failed right out of the box or very quickly after installation and seemed to lack quality control for the part. Most of those rating them went back to the stock MoPar part and had no further issues once they replaced this part. I'd hate to install this and only find it to fail shortly afterwards, but that is how 99% or those who did this rated the aftermarket parts, no matter which of the three brands were used as a replacement. Thanks for the video as it looks like the typical old fart can actually do this and probably have the most difficulty in just finding a good step stool to use to get up there and work. Not sure if the DL grease is actually any better on those plastic contacts than contact spray would be. The stuff would work well as to the plastic body as you used it. Any rate, I enjoyed the video and was appreciative that you ended up with just enough lighting in the video to actually show the part location and all.
Did you just make that up? Most aftermarket parts are just as good and many times are better than oem. OEM parts are made as cheap as possible to increase profits.
I've lost my sensor 3 times in 2 years. What causes them to go bad?
So i got the same code for my 11 dodge charger. Plus like you said i do have to step on the accelerator in ordered for the car to start. And also my traction controll light came on and woulnt go away. It came on when my check engin light came at the same time..
Same issue 2020 5.7 hemi just happen to me now any expensive trip became and easy fix
Well i have a 6 cylinder 2013 3.6 and I'm trying to replace my camshaft censer but I can't find it..
My truck runs at high idle, Once the RPM drops down the truck starts missing and stalls. Could this be the problem?
Same problem here I'll fix mine tomorrow and let you know how that goes
@@luizsopranpires1375 did it fix it?
My truck did the same thing. I changed the throttle position sensor. Fixed my high idling problems.
I changed mine but the light still on, do I have to unhook battery
Thank you! This helped me a lot!
Nice work there boss!
Thank you ... pain in the ass my block there was a canister in the way 1/4 drive gave me the clearance to get at the bolt 🔩
Would this be the culprit if I have a p0300 code?
Thank you sir!
wow a little thing makes a difference
What size is the bolt for the sensor
Did you ever find out?
great video thanks
A couple of days ago I took my truck to the car wash well it shot off in the car wash I then took it to auto zone it said censer misfire then i took it too my mechanic he said it was my radiator he change my radiator the other day while driving to Fayetteville it was raining really hard and my truck stalled again do you by any chance know what that could be
Shut off not shot off
itsthewetwetrain.
Great JOB!
Thank You!
thank you
Mines got a stupid emission cylinder in front of it
Would it cause misfire?
Mine does the same thing it's been doing it for years. Cycle ignition 2 or 3 times then it starts no problem. Only does it when its hot.
U ever figure out what it was?
@@davidm.1098 replaced the throttle body.
Good video
Hi my 2006 Dodge Charger rt 5.7 has been randomly stalling it cranks right back up when no problem then sometimes when I’m driving it will cut off then come back on could this fix my problem I Got new spark plugs through the dealership and they changed one coil but it stills does it please HELP!!!!
So Exxxtra I’ve been dealing with the same problem. Know of any fix??
Mine did the same it turned out to be my spark plugs. Since you bought new spark plugs then that’s not your problem. You can also try changing your MAP sensor, or Camshaft Position Sensor, if it’s not those then honestly it could be your ECM. Or TCM, BUT do not change either right away because it will cost a lot
I have the same year and model, I changed my ECM, and TCM and it continued to stall. I changed my spark plugs and MAP sensor, it didn’t do it as often but it will randomly cut off and on while driving but it stopped stalling out completely.
So Exxxtra did you check the wiring? They melt all the time arround the oil filter area
So Exxxtra , it’s your fuel pump...
Trust me.. People think that when
your fuel pump goes out it won’t
start, which is true, but in some
cases the fuel pump WEAKENS
causing to turn on and then cut
off while you’re driving, they
ignore the fact that sometimes
the fuel pump weakens not
going out in it’s entirely...
I once had the same code came out to be my computer needed to be replaced. Today I got the same code cam sensor bank1 found oil in my PCM connectors.
Are these on 1999 Rams?
i just did mine now it will not start at all do i have to erase the code before it will start ...
What was your outcome?
I want to know as well mine won’t start I’ve put a second sensor now after 2 days of no start figuring first one was defective but still no goddamn start
my hemi is starting to take 2-3 seconds to start. it's starting, I'm going to have to do this soon.
Yea,, good vid motor idles smooth 2!!!! Nice!!
Glad that helped!
MANY THANKS!!!
Thank You!
People don't forget to take the battery neg cable off
good job
Thank You!
Is there a reason why after i replaced both the camshaft and crankshaft sensors my truck takes 5 seconds to crank over?
I have the exact same issue....and I am still getting the P0340 error code after replacing it. I used an aftermarket sensor...may be the issue, I had to replace the oil sender switch, used an aftermarket one, and was not working, replaced that with OEM and its all working correctly. May be the camshaft sensor is the same, has to be OEM.
@@stephenpetrovich2383 i was wondering if just the camshaft sensor i got was a generic one im going to try a mopar one and will post results soon
@@ichorwolf1531 let me know if you go to an OEM sensor...I am probably leaning towards that way. IF I change it and have better results I will post results too
@@ichorwolf1531 OK....great news tonight....so I went to the local dealer, got a new OEM camshaft position sensor, replaced that tonight, and all my codes are gone, including the ESP light being on. Checked my code reader, and nothing ....i started right up, no extra cranking like it had been doing...and it sounds great. Tomorrow I will take it to work and test run it....but things look good at the moment.
@@stephenpetrovich2383 thats really good
My cam shaft sensor on my 2006 ram is stuck its not broke yet but its hard to pull out anything I can spray in to it
I just sprayed mine with WD40. Take small screw driver behind it and apply pressure alternating from top to bottom
My 2012 Hemi has same symptoms but the code was 008. Anyone help? Is it the same?
could this fix a P0013 code?
wondering the samething. i know its been awhile but did you end up finding a fix for p0013 code i currently have that
CanadianBlue After a few oil changes mine went away. I also replaced the variable timing solenoid while I was at it.
Can anybody help?
I bought new sensor but it not fitting in properly!
What year and motor size is your truck? 😎
Not sure of the year, but his airbox has 5.7 Hemi on it. Regardless of the year, most of the camshaft sensors will be located in and around the location he shows on his truck. I have a 2006 Dodge Magnum 5.7 Hemi, camshaft sensor is the same location. 2.7L and 3.5L Chargers, Magnums, and 300's will be different.
Not positive but I think that particular sensor gets a 1/4 turn counterclockwise to remove. That might have been why it wasn't cooperating. Then again, nothing ever does cooperate!
nice video, did the problem get fixed and if so where did you purchase the sensor?
It did fix the problem, and I usually purchase parts from Autozone to keep all my lifetime warranties in one place. But I also frequent every other parts store and lately... their customer service has been considerably better that Autozone.
thanks for a great video very helpful thanks again.
I have a no start but it cranks and have no codes could it be cam sensor or crank i have fuel pressure
Hello, I would be interested to what the problem was? I have the same situation.
@mrfrank4583 my cam bearing went out and caused the timing gear pin to shear and it lost timing had to do a total rebuild
@@larrynance1269 I parked my truck after a long drive, the next morning I had this crank/no start issue. Did you have any warning signs or did it just fail? Thank you for your reply. It helps me to understand what I am in for if the cam sensor replacement doesn't cure the issue.
@@mrfrank4583 no just stopped
@@larrynance1269 So you had the same issue as me? Parked your truck and next time you got in it just crank but no start?.
using, dielectric grease??
Couldn't figure out why he would want to introduce silicone into the cam lobe lubrication system. Thought i was the only one that thought that was weird. Don't think he knows what dielectric grease is for.
The dielectric grease is for the connector, not the sensor itself. Lube it with engine oil.
If it's stuck when removing then use a flat blade screwdriver and attempt to twist it around a little to break it loose and then wiggle it out once it spins some. Spin it a little clockwise and counterclockwise (in any order).
Please make more videos in this tight shirt..you are a macho man 😁
thanks
Thank You!
hey thank you
Mine is doing the same exact thing
Ok cool now just replaced it now how do you reset it the damn engine light is still on and that is what OBD2 said it was
Disconnect battery I think
I have 2010 hemi ram1500
Engine ligth came when i got scanned. It shows this can anyone tell me tht what shoul i do?
P0016
Generic
Crankshaft-Position - Camshaft Position
Correlation - Bank 1
Sensor A
U should join my CoD clan. Been running black ops on ps3. I could use you on our force
Whats your handle?
location of camshaft sensor 2016 2500 6.4 HEMI
That "Hemi hat" intake resonator is supposed to be like that. Odd design. It's just 2 bolts in front and the rest is just press fit onto the throttle body with a silicone donut looking seal.
Why can't you explain that you do not advertise the fact that the drivers side , which is bank 1, is much harder and you need to remove the alternator to replace the camshaft position sensor
On the magnum the cmp is located on the back of the block near the flywheel 6 hours later I have it out. Maybe 6 more hours I will have the new one in.
Magnum, which engine?
Hey how are you my name is Hector I never sent a message to a youtuber before see how it goes
Call of Duty Sandwich Warfare
Lol hilarious
It seems more and more most .mechanics are damn lazy, first hand up here I do most work because in the end I'm redoing it anyway.
My fucking 10mm bolt will not, I repeat, WILL NOT thread back in for some reason. FUCKING HELP.
1.what useful when i use cam sensor ? 2. sensor cam come with steel or plastic Chain .
You talk to much
I don't have that problem I built my whole custom exhaust under my truck like that from front to back
Thanks very much helped me out alot.