Great video. I was unaware of draining the coolant so good to know. I just got the trouble codes which I'm assuming is the actuator...P00AF, P003A, P0046, U010C and P1475....2016 with only 66,000 miles so that's a bit irritating but oh well. Luckily I run a auto collision shop so we have the Snap-On scanner so I'm hoping to do this myself and not the $4k that the dealership wants lol.
I would drain the coolant first and remove the actuator and inspect that the vanes move freely from end to end. Usually the low milage ones I see the seals on the actuator start leaking (pink crust around the meeting surface of the actuator to the turbocharger). If it is leaking I would spray some penetrant around the bolts for a couple days to help removal ,Ive had a couple not want to come out. The snap on will do it no problem, make sure you follow the instructions on the scan tool. You don't have to use the scanner to remove it just to calibrate the position during install.
@@drewsshoplife no one in my area is willing to work on this problem on my truck finally got someone to look at it and they didnt have a scanner to calibrate it when you put it back on so he told me he would get a hold of snap on well they ended up telling him they dont have a scanner or program for this issue ive seen multiple comments on other videos saying they have used a snap on or got ahold of snap on and used there scanner so idk what the issue is with getting this scanner!!
@@user-zb2os7xx1y sounds like you may have something else going on. We have 3 snap on scanners and I know two of them can do the calibration. Only time I’ve had an issue is when the actuator is no good or the turbo is no good. The instructions must be followed when reinstalling the turbo actuator. Does it fail the calibration or throws a code?
@@drewsshoplife havent got anyone to work on it shop told me they had to get a scanner first before they mess with it so when they put it back together they can recalibrate it but said they would get a hold of snap on snap on then told the shop they didnt have scanner for that so machanic wont work on it.
Why not use city diesel self calibrating actuator ? Great info. Thanks for video. Also can you not drain coolant if you’re planning on tossing the old actuator ? Will it eventually drain out to the point it won’t effect install of the new actuator ?
We definitely could use them for actuators, but we get our parts from a couple suppliers and we can have them usually same day. If your installing a new one I would drain the coolant. You don’t want to take the risk of getting coolant in the new actuator.
My truck likes to lose boost. It goes to about half boost pressure and it tends to happen after idling or in stop and go traffic. Restarting the truck temporarily solves the problem. Sounds like a bad actuator? Is there a trick to preserving them? Does soot buildup reduce the life? Would it be worth getting a new turbo instead? Does deleting reduce risks of failures overall? Thank you.
Like andrew p said, I always recommend everyone use the exhaust brake to work the turbocharger vanes open to close. Unfortunately the Actautor is in a really bad spot and seems to get cooked.
Great video. I was unaware of draining the coolant so good to know. I just got the trouble codes which I'm assuming is the actuator...P00AF, P003A, P0046, U010C and P1475....2016 with only 66,000 miles so that's a bit irritating but oh well. Luckily I run a auto collision shop so we have the Snap-On scanner so I'm hoping to do this myself and not the $4k that the dealership wants lol.
I would drain the coolant first and remove the actuator and inspect that the vanes move freely from end to end. Usually the low milage ones I see the seals on the actuator start leaking (pink crust around the meeting surface of the actuator to the turbocharger). If it is leaking I would spray some penetrant around the bolts for a couple days to help removal ,Ive had a couple not want to come out. The snap on will do it no problem, make sure you follow the instructions on the scan tool. You don't have to use the scanner to remove it just to calibrate the position during install.
@@drewsshoplife no one in my area is willing to work on this problem on my truck finally got someone to look at it and they didnt have a scanner to calibrate it when you put it back on so he told me he would get a hold of snap on well they ended up telling him they dont have a scanner or program for this issue ive seen multiple comments on other videos saying they have used a snap on or got ahold of snap on and used there scanner so idk what the issue is with getting this scanner!!
@@user-zb2os7xx1y sounds like you may have something else going on. We have 3 snap on scanners and I know two of them can do the calibration. Only time I’ve had an issue is when the actuator is no good or the turbo is no good. The instructions must be followed when reinstalling the turbo actuator. Does it fail the calibration or throws a code?
@@drewsshoplife havent got anyone to work on it shop told me they had to get a scanner first before they mess with it so when they put it back together they can recalibrate it but said they would get a hold of snap on snap on then told the shop they didnt have scanner for that so machanic wont work on it.
Why not use city diesel self calibrating actuator ? Great info. Thanks for video. Also can you not drain coolant if you’re planning on tossing the old actuator ? Will it eventually drain out to the point it won’t effect install of the new actuator ?
We definitely could use them for actuators, but we get our parts from a couple suppliers and we can have them usually same day. If your installing a new one I would drain the coolant. You don’t want to take the risk of getting coolant in the new actuator.
@@drewsshoplife ok good to know !!! Thanks. Would you recommend a bunch of pb blaster a few days prior to removing? Mine is covered in pink sludge.
@@goosegunner1 I would recommend that , just be careful and use a new allen bit (they like to strip).
My truck likes to lose boost. It goes to about half boost pressure and it tends to happen after idling or in stop and go traffic. Restarting the truck temporarily solves the problem. Sounds like a bad actuator? Is there a trick to preserving them? Does soot buildup reduce the life? Would it be worth getting a new turbo instead? Does deleting reduce risks of failures overall? Thank you.
Use the air brake every now and then. seems to help
Like andrew p said, I always recommend everyone use the exhaust brake to work the turbocharger vanes open to close. Unfortunately the Actautor is in a really bad spot and seems to get cooked.
@@drewsshoplife that’s what my mechanic recommended. I used to only use it when towing but now I use it every day. Thank you
How did you remove the fender liner? Is there some kind of trick?
From what I remember its like 7 or so 8mm bolts to remove it. The ram fender liners are the easiest for me.
Was that an OEM part?
Yes that’s all we use. Sometimes they are directly from the dealer or a holset (factory supplier for Cummins) branded part depending on availability.
Why not show how to disconnect that bullshit connector? Does no damn good at all to start in the freakin' middle of the proceedure.
I have another actuator video that’s complete.
ruclips.net/video/unf8MmXmveQ/видео.htmlsi=GkedKFrFrsPFd4b_
At 0:40 I start removing that connector.
He not the one that started the fix he said that in the video dudes trying to help us and your being a dick