We actually just replaced a turbo with one of those actuators on it. I like the no calibration needed for the DIY's , I hope they last longer than the original's.
@@drewsshoplifejust replaced mine on a 2013 Ram 3500 6.7 cummins. Night and day difference in power, mileage, and smooth running. Fairly easy job. Thank god for easy wheel well access.
Dude thank you so much for all of your help. I see a few crusty comments on here.. do not let people like that kill your vibe and take away from giving us all a little help! I know it takes time filming editing and posting this and answering these questions all the while your actually working your day job. Your the man 🤘💪
OP!!! Take it from me a 50 year old veteran mechanic, do NOT use any part of your BODY as a hammer!!!! It sucks getting old it sucks even worse when you’ve repeatedly beat on wrenches with your hands….. I find sore spots from 30 years ago that never hurt until now….trust me you will usually remember exactly when the damage was done!!!! Also take it from me Never and I mean Never use a ball end Allen socket or wrench to “Break” a screw or bolt!!!! Stripping is your least fear…. You DO NOT want to have to deal with a broken Ball end stuck in head of bolt…. Also Never use an Impact to break Allen bolts unless you are positive they are gonna come out easily. Break by hand then use an impact…. Again 30 plus years working on mostly German equipment using up to 24mm Allen head bolts…
Im already starting to feel the pain from them as hammers ,I dont do that anymore. I completely agree about using impacts on allen sockets especially ball end. Ive acutally broke the ball end off already doing on of these. I recently invested in a quality allen key set to break them free.
Great video! I have a 2018 that was built in October of 2017. Do you think this absolutely has a Security Gateway Module? I ask as the City Diesel actuator that doesn't need calibration is several weeks out. I can get one that comes with a OBD connector that calibrates it but if I have a SGM the calibration won't work. Trying to decide if I need to get Alpha OBD and a SGM bypass kit to do this with an actuator that will need calibration. Thanks!!
I have code P0106 (MAP sensor) and P2580 (turbo speed sensor) my truck will build proper boost some days, others it wont, im getting a slight squeak from the front after about a month of having the issue. Tried replacing both sensors and checking all wiring. Exhaust brake only really works when truck is warm. Turbo builds right voltage aswell, any ideas?
Man I just replaced mine and when I shut it off it makes the same noise yours did when I key off…. I’m assuming that’s normal? My actuator is aftermarket not OEM
If you were to install a new one and did not calibrate it will it ruin the actuator. I’ve got a hard code P003A and drained it all fluid, took it off and calibrated first test , but keeps failing the second calibration after it’s bolted on what could be the problem? Turbo arm moves from line to line freely.
Are you lining the turbo arm up before you install the actuator after the first calibration? It should have a pin you install through the turbo arm into the turbo to make sure it’s perfectly lined up. Where did you get the actuator?
I used to use a small allen key, I purchased a set of ball end long allen sockets from snap on that works really well unless the bolt is extremely tight. Just like this set on ebay www.ebay.com/itm/134703392886?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=134703392886&targetid=1645685073288&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031780&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073288&abcId=9312979&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmvSoBhDOARIsAK6aV7iY1HX-OimQaMLz_HQO-UrUKtl0cY2duNXZDjJMBYndM8AtEgQeCiAaArJSEALw_wcB
If your replacing the actuator for sure it definitely doesn’t matter. The first one I ever did I didn’t drain and it shorted the actuator out. But I’m my case , if the customer declines the repair and i reinstall the shorted actuator it will blow a fuse (at least it did on that first one). And from what I remember that fuse powers other important things. I had to leave the actuator unplugged and replace the fuse. Customer was aware and didn’t care the were trading the truck in.
Good video im actually installing my tirbo. However, the actuator came separately from the same company @performance diesal, pensecoala florida. Question can i just install it str8 on as you did then have it calibrated at the dealership? Second question. Can i put the acuator on the new turbo before i install it on the manifold so, the install would be one piece or will i still have to take it off and calibrate it? Once i drop it in. Dodge ram 3500 2015.
Thank you, I would recommend calling the company you purchased the actuator from to see if it’s pre calibrated. If it’s pre calibrated you can install it with the turbo lined up. If the actuator needs to be calibrated and you installed it without calibrating it , The actuator will need to be removed (coolant must be drained before Removing actuator) and calibrated then installed again.
@drewsshoplife thank champ appreciate the content and response. Unfortunately for me i knocked the drain plug in theoil pan, now i have to have it removed shiiiit. At this point i cant do anything except install everything and let mecahnic shop drop the pan and calibrate the turbo for me i guess. Keep killing the content man. Very detailed. .
I removed my actuator to check the turbo and it moved freely. Everything looked pretty new no rust or leaks. Now I re-Installed the old actuator while I wait for the new one to come in. I don't really have a way of testing the old actuator or calibrate it. 1. Is it ok to drive while I wait a month for the new one to get here? 2. What could potentially happen if I "failed to calibrate a perfectly good actuator" and now driving it out of Cal?
How are you checking the can bus power ? Cant check it with a multi meter need a scope because of the rapid fluctuations. Depending on the code its usually always the actuator or the turbo. Ive done hundreds of these now and have yet to see it be anything but the turbo or actuator but it can always be something else. What code do you have?
More than likely , I usually recommend removal of the actuator first and inspect the vanes of the turbocharger to make sure the turbo is not stuck. If the vanes are good i recommend just the actuator. Ive seen a few through circuit codes and have stuck vanes.
I have only seen it on a 2016. To be certain I would recommend contacting ram or your local dealer. Its been a problem since the 6.7 came out unfortunately.
I'm going to be replacing mine soon. So to calibrate the actuator you have to install it first? Some vids show to calibrate first and then put it back on the turbo. 🤔
Some actuators purchased online come pre calibrated. The ones we install are not calibrated. You basically use the pin to line the turbocharger up and plug in the actuator and calibrate it , then bolt it up.
Thanks for the video. My truck isnt throwing any codes but the turbo and exhaust brake won’t work until the engine is well warmed up and ran down the road for 10-15 minutes. How can I confirm it’s the actuator?
With something like that , it sounds like either the vanes are sticking in the turbocharger or the actuator is failing. The Way that i would check it is drain the coolant and remove the actuator and try to move the vanes.
It will usually set a code either for the actuator electrically or a mechanical issue. I’m not sure if that’s normal or not, next time I have one in I’ll see if it does the same.
When he was messing with the actuator he didn't put it all the way to the left and it's really fucking with me is li e to line not actually line to line or just wall to wall?
I wish the dealership was capable of doing this diagnosis. I brought my 09 6.7 to them, non functional exhaust brake and p2262. I just wanted to know if there was a communication error or was the actuator physically damaged. A week later they said "turbo is mechanical and cannot be tested in the truck" then they took $200...
so i just got 3 codes tonight on my 2017 6.7 cummins. P003A, P00AF, and U010C. im going to try this once i get home with the truck as im in college 6 hours away. which sucks but i have to get it home. how did you know the turbo was good? was it because that lever moved freely? as i really dont wanna spend 3k or so for a new turbo if i dont have to.
@@drewsshoplife dang. Thank you for the quick response. I'll definitely be checking everything out Sunday. I hope it's good for my 5.5 hour drive home. Then I'll park it til it's fixed
@@drewsshoplife ok serious question. I drove home 6.5 hours and everything was normal. No codes and exhaust brake worked great. I haven't drove it since it got home because of the possible issue. Would that possibly be a wiring issue. I honestly haven't even glanced at it yet. Lol maybe I should check the wiring to it before anything else?
The actuator theres nothing to really clean. If the vanes are stuck you can try to clean but with mileage usually the turbos are starting to wear out. On some rams there is a cleaning port for a special tool to clean the vanes. Ive never had luck with that either.
I have two of them, Unfortunately they are unable load test circuits so they are not useful for me in that situation. Nor are they able to verify can bus data circuits.
I used a die grinder to cut the bolt while in the actuator and the other one i was able to remove after a couple hours of trying to remove them without destroying the actuator. Unfortunately I Did not film this due to space constraints and didn't know how long it was actually going to take. I believe they are a 5mm allen bolt , I usually use a allen key to remove and install the lower bolts. If yours are stripped then it extremely difficult to remove and may have to damage the actuator to remove. I have a video installing an actuator if your looking at how to access the lower bolts ruclips.net/video/hzvag21lejc/видео.html I hope this helps.
Really guy!? you should be thanking this kid for all of his responses to all of these questions. And for even posting this video. If you can’t figure out how to remove a stripped bolt take it to the shop.
Man I just replaced mine and when I shut it off it makes the same noise yours did when I key off…. I’m assuming that’s normal? My actuator is aftermarket not OEM
![CENTRAL CEE - GEN Z LUV [VERTICAL VIDEO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/VIbidJm9q34/mqdefault.jpg)
City Diesel makes a self-calibrating actuator with twice the torque and it is self-calibrating. So popular they have a waiting list to get one.
We actually just replaced a turbo with one of those actuators on it. I like the no calibration needed for the DIY's , I hope they last longer than the original's.
@@drewsshoplifejust replaced mine on a 2013 Ram 3500 6.7 cummins. Night and day difference in power, mileage, and smooth running. Fairly easy job. Thank god for easy wheel well access.
@@scbaneWhat actuator did you buy? And from where?
@@scbanewhere did u buy it ??
Dude thank you so much for all of your help. I see a few crusty comments on here.. do not let people like that kill your vibe and take away from giving us all a little help! I know it takes time filming editing and posting this and answering these questions all the while your actually working your day job. Your the man 🤘💪
Mines just went out and waiting on the new one to come in ...thanks for posting a great video
Thank you!
Did you have the p2262 code?
Thank you for sharing! I’m troubleshooting mine, appreciate you!
Very good vid! Well explained. This channel will do very well.
Thank you!
Job well done! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
OP!!!
Take it from me a 50 year old veteran mechanic, do NOT use any part of your BODY as a hammer!!!! It sucks getting old it sucks even worse when you’ve repeatedly beat on wrenches with your hands….. I find sore spots from 30 years ago that never hurt until now….trust me you will usually remember exactly when the damage was done!!!!
Also take it from me Never and I mean Never use a ball end Allen socket or wrench to “Break” a screw or bolt!!!!
Stripping is your least fear….
You DO NOT want to have to deal with a broken Ball end stuck in head of bolt….
Also Never use an Impact to break Allen bolts unless you are positive they are gonna come out easily.
Break by hand then use an impact….
Again 30 plus years working on mostly German equipment using up to 24mm Allen head bolts…
Im already starting to feel the pain from them as hammers ,I dont do that anymore. I completely agree about using impacts on allen sockets especially ball end. Ive acutally broke the ball end off already doing on of these. I recently invested in a quality allen key set to break them free.
Great video! I have a 2018 that was built in October of 2017. Do you think this absolutely has a Security Gateway Module? I ask as the City Diesel actuator that doesn't need calibration is several weeks out. I can get one that comes with a OBD connector that calibrates it but if I have a SGM the calibration won't work. Trying to decide if I need to get Alpha OBD and a SGM bypass kit to do this with an actuator that will need calibration. Thanks!!
Thanks for your videos good man🙏🙌
Glad you like them!
I had dealer replace my actuator.. the exhaust brake doesn't sound the same on cold starts. Do you think that is a problem with calibration?
Is the scanner tool necessary to change out and replace ?
I have code P0106 (MAP sensor) and P2580 (turbo speed sensor) my truck will build proper boost some days, others it wont, im getting a slight squeak from the front after about a month of having the issue. Tried replacing both sensors and checking all wiring. Exhaust brake only really works when truck is warm. Turbo builds right voltage aswell, any ideas?
Man I just replaced mine and when I shut it off it makes the same noise yours did when I key off…. I’m assuming that’s normal? My actuator is aftermarket not OEM
Where did you drain the coolant from?
What about if the actuator and turbo are both good and the ECM says you still have a comms loss to the actuator?
If you were to install a new one and did not calibrate it will it ruin the actuator. I’ve got a hard code P003A and drained it all fluid, took it off and calibrated first test , but keeps failing the second calibration after it’s bolted on what could be the problem? Turbo arm moves from line to line freely.
Are you lining the turbo arm up before you install the actuator after the first calibration? It should have a pin you install through the turbo arm into the turbo to make sure it’s perfectly lined up. Where did you get the actuator?
I done put 2 actuator on in the last month and still have the code P226C, I took turbo off and cleaned it.
If the turbo moves freely and the gear moves to both lines on housing then maybe you have bad actuators. Where did you purchase the actuators from?
What did you use to get to the lower left bolt? Nothing I can find seems to fit into that small area.
I used to use a small allen key, I purchased a set of ball end long allen sockets from snap on that works really well unless the bolt is extremely tight. Just like this set on ebay
www.ebay.com/itm/134703392886?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=134703392886&targetid=1645685073288&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9031780&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073288&abcId=9312979&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwmvSoBhDOARIsAK6aV7iY1HX-OimQaMLz_HQO-UrUKtl0cY2duNXZDjJMBYndM8AtEgQeCiAaArJSEALw_wcB
Why do you bother with the coolant drain if you’re replacing the actuator ? Just curious !! Getting ready to instal the city diesel on mine.
If your replacing the actuator for sure it definitely doesn’t matter. The first one I ever did I didn’t drain and it shorted the actuator out. But I’m my case , if the customer declines the repair and i reinstall the shorted actuator it will blow a fuse (at least it did on that first one). And from what I remember that fuse powers other important things. I had to leave the actuator unplugged and replace the fuse. Customer was aware and didn’t care the were trading the truck in.
Dumb question but do you think by hitting a hard pot hole the suspension an run against the actuator? Causing damage
Its likely a coincidence but these actuators fail so often I doubt it.
Good video im actually installing my tirbo. However, the actuator came separately from the same company @performance diesal, pensecoala florida. Question can i just install it str8 on as you did then have it calibrated at the dealership?
Second question. Can i put the acuator on the new turbo before i install it on the manifold so, the install would be one piece or will i still have to take it off and calibrate it? Once i drop it in. Dodge ram 3500 2015.
Thank you, I would recommend calling the company you purchased the actuator from to see if it’s pre calibrated. If it’s pre calibrated you can install it with the turbo lined up. If the actuator needs to be calibrated and you installed it without calibrating it , The actuator will need to be removed (coolant must be drained before Removing actuator) and calibrated then installed again.
@drewsshoplife thank champ appreciate the content and response. Unfortunately for me i knocked the drain plug in theoil pan, now i have to have it removed shiiiit. At this point i cant do anything except install everything and let mecahnic shop drop the pan and calibrate the turbo for me i guess. Keep killing the content man. Very detailed. .
I removed my actuator to check the turbo and it moved freely. Everything looked pretty new no rust or leaks. Now I re-Installed the old actuator while I wait for the new one to come in. I don't really have a way of testing the old actuator or calibrate it.
1. Is it ok to drive while I wait a month for the new one to get here?
2. What could potentially happen if I "failed to calibrate a perfectly good actuator" and now driving it out of Cal?
Did you figure this out? Im wondering the same thing because I don’t wanna pull the actuator and not be able to put it back and not use the truck….
What's the extension you mentioned on the warranty. I just started getting this code myself.
I would recommend calling ram and verifying you have any extended warranty on that actuator. I believe it was only for the 2016's
I have a 2016 6.7 and when checking actuator CanBus I have no power whatsoever. What can I check next. Doesn’t seem to be the actuator.
How are you checking the can bus power ? Cant check it with a multi meter need a scope because of the rapid fluctuations. Depending on the code its usually always the actuator or the turbo. Ive done hundreds of these now and have yet to see it be anything but the turbo or actuator but it can always be something else. What code do you have?
I’m getting a P0046 you think it would be the actuator needing to be replaced?
More than likely , I usually recommend removal of the actuator first and inspect the vanes of the turbocharger to make sure the turbo is not stuck. If the vanes are good i recommend just the actuator. Ive seen a few through circuit codes and have stuck vanes.
I have a 2017 and my actuator is bad. Do you know of any warranty extension on the 2017? Clearly they had a problem for many years.
I have only seen it on a 2016. To be certain I would recommend contacting ram or your local dealer. Its been a problem since the 6.7 came out unfortunately.
I'm going to be replacing mine soon.
So to calibrate the actuator you have to install it first? Some vids show to calibrate first and then put it back on the turbo. 🤔
Can you help me out?
Some actuators purchased online come pre calibrated. The ones we install are not calibrated. You basically use the pin to line the turbocharger up and plug in the actuator and calibrate it , then bolt it up.
@@drewsshoplife thank you for the quick response.
Thanks for the video. My truck isnt throwing any codes but the turbo and exhaust brake won’t work until the engine is well warmed up and ran down the road for 10-15 minutes. How can I confirm it’s the actuator?
With something like that , it sounds like either the vanes are sticking in the turbocharger or the actuator is failing. The Way that i would check it is drain the coolant and remove the actuator and try to move the vanes.
@@drewsshoplife Thanks very much for that.
@@drewsshoplifehow do you put the actuator back without calibration though?
@@mkleyn99Did you find out yet I gotta replace mine?
"I stick it on straight" proceeds to jam it on crooked.
I did the same thing the other day. I probably should start using the installation alignment pins.
How you known if its the actuator?
My exhaust break works but doesn't disengage until 1200rpm.
It will usually set a code either for the actuator electrically or a mechanical issue. I’m not sure if that’s normal or not, next time I have one in I’ll see if it does the same.
This may be a dumb question.. But can the turbo actuator cause the exhaust brake not to come on?
It absolutely can , The actuator is responsible for moving the turbo vanes to produce the exhaust back pressure (aka exhaust brake).
Absolutely. That's pretty much the first sign things are going south
So havin your truck deleted. Does it make so it don’t give out as easy
It shouldn't make a difference being deleted. It controls the turbo so it should still work almost as hard as an emission equipped truck.
When he was messing with the actuator he didn't put it all the way to the left and it's really fucking with me is li e to line not actually line to line or just wall to wall?
Its only moves enough to line up with either lines on the sides.
@@drewsshoplife with further inspection, turns out my turbo is toast 😂
I wish the dealership was capable of doing this diagnosis. I brought my 09 6.7 to them, non functional exhaust brake and p2262. I just wanted to know if there was a communication error or was the actuator physically damaged. A week later they said "turbo is mechanical and cannot be tested in the truck" then they took $200...
What did you end up doing? I have the p2262 code on mine.
@@mkleyn99 ive been driving it as is. Its not affecting the driveability at all, im waiting till i can replace the whole turbo
so i just got 3 codes tonight on my 2017 6.7 cummins. P003A, P00AF, and U010C. im going to try this once i get home with the truck as im in college 6 hours away. which sucks but i have to get it home. how did you know the turbo was good? was it because that lever moved freely? as i really dont wanna spend 3k or so for a new turbo if i dont have to.
Yes If the gear off the turbocharger moves freely the turbo is fine. Unfortunately this is becoming a very common problem on these trucks.
@@drewsshoplife dang. Thank you for the quick response. I'll definitely be checking everything out Sunday. I hope it's good for my 5.5 hour drive home. Then I'll park it til it's fixed
@@drewsshoplife ok serious question. I drove home 6.5 hours and everything was normal. No codes and exhaust brake worked great. I haven't drove it since it got home because of the possible issue. Would that possibly be a wiring issue. I honestly haven't even glanced at it yet. Lol maybe I should check the wiring to it before anything else?
Where you located ????
You can cleaned or only replace
The actuator theres nothing to really clean. If the vanes are stuck you can try to clean but with mileage usually the turbos are starting to wear out. On some rams there is a cleaning port for a special tool to clean the vanes. Ive never had luck with that either.
why you didn't take off the tire make 50% the job easier and you can get it handle better if the bottom screws
That would make it easier and suggest it to be removed. If I have an issue with the bolts extremely tight I will remove the wheel.
I heard theirs a fuse
Possibly but i've never seen one per the wiring diagrams, It gets the power feed from the ecm.
If you don't have a Power Probe, get one.
I have two of them, Unfortunately they are unable load test circuits so they are not useful for me in that situation. Nor are they able to verify can bus data circuits.
Thanks for showing how to get the bottom bolts out! NOT!!
I used a die grinder to cut the bolt while in the actuator and the other one i was able to remove after a couple hours of trying to remove them without destroying the actuator. Unfortunately I Did not film this due to space constraints and didn't know how long it was actually going to take. I believe they are a 5mm allen bolt , I usually use a allen key to remove and install the lower bolts. If yours are stripped then it extremely difficult to remove and may have to damage the actuator to remove. I have a video installing an actuator if your looking at how to access the lower bolts ruclips.net/video/hzvag21lejc/видео.html I hope this helps.
Really guy!? you should be thanking this kid for all of his responses to all of these questions. And for even posting this video. If you can’t figure out how to remove a stripped bolt take it to the shop.
Man I just replaced mine and when I shut it off it makes the same noise yours did when I key off…. I’m assuming that’s normal? My actuator is aftermarket not OEM
You should be fine as-long as its not throwing any codes and working fine you should be good to go.