You can fix the torque twist very easy, without spending all this money. Just fill the shocks with 600 ct damping oil the correct way. With some brass wheels the truck will be stable and the shocks will working smooth. Especially because they are build for full droop setting. It`s not correct to say, that the oil is not important in this scale. Especially in this big bore shocks with the bladder on top you should fill it like in bigger scale. If leakin, just use an additional 1mm o-ring on the bladder bevore screwing the damper together. And dont forget: the damper rod should stay fully compressed (without the spring) when you screw the cap on the body. Da Silva RC had made a good video about that some years ago.
Thanks for showing the difference the reverse rotation axle makes! I've been considering one for my FX118. Also - the upgraded hobbyplus links for the CR18P work great on the FX118, way more low profile than the huge plastic ball ends on the Furitek upgrade links!
Matt, now with the upgraded parts adjust preload on the rear left shock collar about 1/4 inch. That will help keep the front right wheel down on the incline. Nice video & awesome truck!
Love all your videos!! Haven’t got into 1/24 or 1/18th crawling seen yet. Since you’re doing all the work and I thank you for all your videos. I was thinking I’ll watch until you come up with the best setup. Then buy that one. But you’re so good at setting up these things that you just keep making them better and better!! GREAT WORK!!👍👍👍👏👏👏👏
That counter-rotating output shaft switch really improved the torque twist more than I expected it would. I agree with @huffingearoil though, it would have been nice if they did a redesigned plastic axle housing for those that can't spare the $40.
Great video Matt! Really looking forward to the aftermarket picking up for this platform and seeing more parts and upgrades available! Such a solid platform to start!
Looks like for some reason the aftermarket is not interested in this platform. Injora jumped on the Redcat Ascent 18 within weeks or months. Hard to even find spare parts for this.
I've just converted my furitek fx118 into the lizard pro, changed the chassis and got the longer stub axles with the wider hex's, turned it into a proper capable rig, definitely going to do the axles next, thanks for sharing
Hey Matt I used an FCX24 Rear Axle with the old 12T gear from the powerwagon and it gave me 12.5% overdrive, I had to use a longer drive shaft but it works flawlessly for anyone who wants to go cheap. they bolt right up and you can swap to the other drive option.
Again a superb video. Exactly what was needed. You are always on point. Already ordered the axles (the front is needed as well and if it is just for the look)
Great vid as always diving into the important detail. Why didnt they ship the rigs already with that flipped diff axle since it exists. Thats befuddling and makes me more disappointed in hp. Several issues with alignment of the servo and the turning arms hitting the chassis too. Regardless of my rant thanks for showing
Thanks this is what I was hoping people get the Evo & start upgrading & doing mods. I have the Furitek version I’ve had it a few weeks now I just put on Meus 1.2 beadlocks & tires. Unfortunately my scale battery died but one Meus wheel weighed more then 3 of the original wheels & with all 4 mounted it’s real heavy. I was thinking I needed brass in the front but now I’m going to wait it’s so heavy now. I’m looking at getting the metal axles but now I have to be careful with adding to much weight. The Meus wheels are offset & are lot wider then stock but the stocks are 68 mm or 72mm I don’t remember but the Meus are 62mm high bit wider. So we’ll see how being a bit lower plays out.
I put a Cedar in mine which allows you to lower the whole truck 5-6mm since the motor doesn't hit the front upper links. I have all the same upgrades as you minus the rear axle and brass hexes I'm also running Injora Comp Pins and I can almost get 60 degrees.
The SOA mount doesn't work it sets the servo back to far, it's not the same as the stock one the steering links work though. Doing a rear upper link adjustment pretty much solved my torque twist.
Yeah I mention that later in the vid. Once I installed it I found that out lol. I just spaced my servo out a bit so I didn’t have to change the mount again lol
Yeah, a simple spacer fixes the servo mount distance. What rear upper link adjustment were you able to do to solve torque twist? I am always looking to learn how to setup suspensions better.
Drake video my brother I found with the MIP tool with their quick disconnect tools that are absolutely awesome I got them and then I went and got the hyper tough drill little 1415 trail from Walmart Works amazing great content though bro thank you so much
That’s exactly what use! That little drill from wal mart is so cheap I bought a couple. They are a must have when working on larger RCs no doubt. I won’t touch my xmaxx or scx6 without them lol
will the over drive gears for them axels work with the axels that come on the furitek camon carbon kit? bc i cant find any over drive or under drive gears for it any where? any help thanks
No. I’ve been using these for the fcx axles. Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $5.57 71％ Off | 8Pcs Overdrive Steel Portal Axle Gear Set 20T 15T for 1/24 FMS FCX24 RC Crawler Car Upgrade Parts a.aliexpress.com/_m0qwo2k
The fcx axles are different. They have the ring gear on opposite sides front to rear already. Which is what we have to flip with these. That’s my guess basically lol
@2fmrc Ahh gotcha, makes sense. The dual rear output shafts got me thinking, what if they're planning a 6x6 where the rear axle has its own driveshaft that goes over the top of the middle axle with like a hanger bearing or something? That might help with the middle axle twisting up and lifting a wheel like what happens with an Atlas 6x6.
Hey Matt, do you have any idea the difference in gear ratio between the fcx24 and cr18p axles are? The long stub shafts of the pro fit right in the fcx axle, looks like the you would just have to bore out the inner pin hole to the fcx size. Those axles are reverse rotation, right around the same width and have less play. You can pick up the whole fcx assembly for $17
You must be on asiatees Christmas card list. They've been sold out since you first featured the CR-18p! LOL! (and I won't mention the CAD$...) :D ???- How's Liam doing?
Not sure I’m a bit confused. You spend a whole lot of money on upgrades shifted the torque twist to the other side and didn’t gain that much in incline capability. Are you really happy with the result 🤔🤔
Yeah pretty happy with it considering I haven’t did anything with electronics yet to get some of the weight lower and off the rear. It transfers it to the other side but it’s way way less than before. So in the end it’ll help a lot. Just need to swap tires and start working on the free mods to get the weight down now!
Hi Matt, got the exact same result like you. Just quickly installed the Hobby Plus Aluminium rear axle V2. Using now the counter rotating output. Result: gain in climbing plus 1° (57°), less torque twist but still there, now on the passenger side. But one has to consider: - more weight at the back axle because I have not yet installed the Aluminium front axle - spring rate not adjusted yet. ruclips.net/user/shortsale8JnhYcuk?si=vy_pIOL60gRipRVp
Yeah it helps quite a bit honestly. You can also just swap in an fcx rear portal to change the direction. Obviously you can add stiffer springs etc but to me that messes with my suspension too much.
Well here we are again, celebrated best RTR and then you have to pay an axle that costs more than the whole car. (As of 082024 the RCAWD axle set is 180 bucks)
@@snörre23 definitely don’t buy any Rc4wd axles. At this point we have the plastic housing available that allows you to flip the rear. Should be all you need . Pretty sure this is it. www.helidirect.com/products/hobbyplus-rear-portal-axle-v2-for-cr-18p-2024
@@2fmrc yea that looks good thank you, quite hard to find parts for those. the only place in the world that has this in stock is helidirect and being in europe they charge 30 $ shipping costs. Part is listed and sold out or not available at many shops including asiatees, also listed but not available locally in europe via the absima brand. So i begin to regret buying a hobby plus brand car.
I got to say that I’m pretty disappointed in hobby Plus. They poorly engineer their product to have bad torque twist and then come out with a way to remedy most of it by redesign their rear axle but instead of making a redesigned $5 axle housing they make you purchase a housing that costs 1/4 the price of the complete car to fix their problem. I have 5 of their cars now so that $250 to fix them or $500 to not have them look mismatched…. I think I might be done with the brand.
If you think that’s bad wait till you see how much Traxxas and axial sell their hop-up parts for. Also note that this rear axle only works for the 2 speed transmission housing with the secondary output. Not the cr18p single speed.
@@JUSTHAVEFUNRC good point, I didn’t even think of the single speed not having the additional output. The thing is, this isn’t a hop up part really. This is to fix their lack of engineering by making you buy a hop up part.
@@dannydrones4274I totally understand that in this hobby you spend money on performance parts to make your rc better, I’ve been doing it for 20+ years but I’m disappointed with the fact that they didn’t make a normal cheap plastic axle that fixes the problem instead of just offering it in their bling axles. I guess I look at it as more of a recall thing and not a performance upgrade.
You can fix the torque twist very easy, without spending all this money. Just fill the shocks with 600 ct damping oil the correct way. With some brass wheels the truck will be stable and the shocks will working smooth. Especially because they are build for full droop setting. It`s not correct to say, that the oil is not important in this scale. Especially in this big bore shocks with the bladder on top you should fill it like in bigger scale. If leakin, just use an additional 1mm o-ring on the bladder bevore screwing the damper together. And dont forget: the damper rod should stay fully compressed (without the spring) when you screw the cap on the body.
Da Silva RC had made a good video about that some years ago.
Thanks for showing the difference the reverse rotation axle makes! I've been considering one for my FX118. Also - the upgraded hobbyplus links for the CR18P work great on the FX118, way more low profile than the huge plastic ball ends on the Furitek upgrade links!
Matt, now with the upgraded parts adjust preload on the rear left shock collar about 1/4 inch. That will help keep the front right wheel down on the incline. Nice video & awesome truck!
Definitely! Gotta start moving things around and get some weight off the rear end as well!
Still waiting on all my parts. Can’t wait to start wrenching on mine. Thanks for the great tutorial. God bless
Love all your videos!! Haven’t got into 1/24 or 1/18th crawling seen yet. Since you’re doing all the work and I thank you for all your videos. I was thinking I’ll watch until you come up with the best setup. Then buy that one. But you’re so good at setting up these things that you just keep making them better and better!! GREAT WORK!!👍👍👍👏👏👏👏
Really appreciate that 🙏
I just ordered my Evo Pro and can’t wait to do the same upgrades thanks
That counter-rotating output shaft switch really improved the torque twist more than I expected it would. I agree with @huffingearoil though, it would have been nice if they did a redesigned plastic axle housing for those that can't spare the $40.
Yeah. I’d also have to get a front axle to Becuase I couldn’t stand to have a plastic front and metal rear.
@@JUSTHAVEFUNRC Me too.
Apparently the fcx24 axle works as long as you use the od gears
We need revised portal gears for our CR18P axles to get rid of the terrible slop more than anything from ether Hobby Plus or some aftermarket company.
@@DTW-bx2vy I can’t really figure out a major culprit. Seems like a little in the trans, a little in the diffs, and a little in the portals.
Can't thank you enough for this video. I have all these upgrades on the way. Also purchased the t hunter with same upgrades so I'm beyond ecstatic.
Sweet! Hope you like the upgrades!
Appreciate the video and all the info! Got the rear axle housing high clearance links, brass portal covers, and overdrive gears ordered.
Sweet! Hope you like the upgrades!
Great video Matt!
Really looking forward to the aftermarket picking up for this platform and seeing more parts and upgrades available! Such a solid platform to start!
Looks like for some reason the aftermarket is not interested in this platform. Injora jumped on the Redcat Ascent 18 within weeks or months. Hard to even find spare parts for this.
Thanks for the vid. I was looking for details on the torque twist. The diffs make a huge difference .
I've just converted my furitek fx118 into the lizard pro, changed the chassis and got the longer stub axles with the wider hex's, turned it into a proper capable rig, definitely going to do the axles next, thanks for sharing
Great video! I hope the CR18P platform starts to receive more aftermarket support so we aren't stuck with $40 housings.
I agree! I could see $20 aluminum housings (which I would prefer be plastic) but $40 is a bit insane.
Hey Matt I used an FCX24 Rear Axle with the old 12T gear from the powerwagon and it gave me 12.5% overdrive, I had to use a longer drive shaft but it works flawlessly for anyone who wants to go cheap. they bolt right up and you can swap to the other drive option.
Nice! I need to try it when I get time!
Appreciated the detailed info and the testing for each mod so we can see which mods are effective. Thanks!
Again a superb video. Exactly what was needed. You are always on point. Already ordered the axles (the front is needed as well and if it is just for the look)
I agree. Looks much better with matching axles for sure. Hope you like the result!
Great vid as always diving into the important detail.
Why didnt they ship the rigs already with that flipped diff axle since it exists. Thats befuddling and makes me more disappointed in hp. Several issues with alignment of the servo and the turning arms hitting the chassis too.
Regardless of my rant thanks for showing
Phew… I saw before bed…I may have had to see this tomorrow. 😅
I have been waiting for this video brother! Thank you Matt!
Hope it helped!
@2FM RC would be really nice if you could test out if the LCG chassis is bolt on the Fx118 platform.
Thanks this is what I was hoping people get the Evo & start upgrading & doing mods. I have the Furitek version I’ve had it a few weeks now I just put on Meus 1.2 beadlocks & tires. Unfortunately my scale battery died but one Meus wheel weighed more then 3 of the original wheels & with all 4 mounted it’s real heavy. I was thinking I needed brass in the front but now I’m going to wait it’s so heavy now. I’m looking at getting the metal axles but now I have to be careful with adding to much weight. The Meus wheels are offset & are lot wider then stock but the stocks are 68 mm or 72mm I don’t remember but the Meus are 62mm high bit wider. So we’ll see how being a bit lower plays out.
I am waiting on my evo now and definitely will ant the rear axle and the front brass 🔥🔥😎👍
I put a Cedar in mine which allows you to lower the whole truck 5-6mm since the motor doesn't hit the front upper links. I have all the same upgrades as you minus the rear axle and brass hexes I'm also running Injora Comp Pins and I can almost get 60 degrees.
Nice!
As always a great informative video, but one question
question. I read some were that said don't put lock tight on plastic, it can melt it. That so ?
Definitely alot better. Would thicker rear shock oil help with torque twist
Matt, any idea who makes a skid plate that accepts the Furitek Scx24 stellar for the Evo pro?
Excellent dude, it's very awesome. I'll be ordering this up
The SOA mount doesn't work it sets the servo back to far, it's not the same as the stock one the steering links work though. Doing a rear upper link adjustment pretty much solved my torque twist.
Yeah I mention that later in the vid. Once I installed it I found that out lol. I just spaced my servo out a bit so I didn’t have to change the mount again lol
@@2fmrcI did the same 😂 I cut the ears off the stock mount and used those as the spacer.
Yeah, a simple spacer fixes the servo mount distance.
What rear upper link adjustment were you able to do to solve torque twist? I am always looking to learn how to setup suspensions better.
Very curious as well bc I have messed with the rear upper link settings and kind of got different results
Hey Steve wondering what adjustment you made to the rear upper links ??
man very thorough and great video covering lots of the upgrades I have been looking at for my rvo pro!! Great job
Really appreciate that! Glad it may have helped a bit
it would be grear if you could list part numbers in description if possible. Sorry for being so needy lol but it would be a great reference!
I’ll try to do that!
Didn't find the overdrive gears on the site. Do you have a link or part number for the overdrive?
Hey buddy can u shoot the part numbers for front and rear axle
Do you think just the brass alone would help much with the twist?
Awesome as always 👏 😎
Drake video my brother I found with the MIP tool with their quick disconnect tools that are absolutely awesome I got them and then I went and got the hyper tough drill little 1415 trail from Walmart Works amazing great content though bro thank you so much
That’s exactly what use! That little drill from wal mart is so cheap I bought a couple. They are a must have when working on larger RCs no doubt. I won’t touch my xmaxx or scx6 without them lol
Do you think it`s worth it to go with the aluminum shocks?
What do you reccomend for driveshafts? mine broke 10 mins out of the box lol...thanks
Where did you get the steel driveshafts?
where did you find all these hobby plus parts for the evo pro?
Curious how it would do with brass wheels
I’ll definitely try that soon. I think the extra weight will help the torque twist some. So now that it’s way way less it may basically solve it.
What drive shafts are you using?
So the v2 brass outers work with the overdrive?
Mine worked great!
@@2fmrc awesome. Need to update the Facebook group and grab some for myself. A little annoying my old v1 covers need to be filed down.
will the over drive gears for them axels work with the axels that come on the furitek camon carbon kit? bc i cant find any over drive or under drive gears for it any where? any help thanks
No. I’ve been using these for the fcx axles.
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $5.57 71％ Off | 8Pcs Overdrive Steel Portal Axle Gear Set 20T 15T for 1/24 FMS FCX24 RC Crawler Car Upgrade Parts
a.aliexpress.com/_m0qwo2k
Do the rock van parts fit this car?
Why do you think the evo pro has torque twist issues either way but the fcx24 and 18 don't? in general they seem really similar.
The fcx axles are different. They have the ring gear on opposite sides front to rear already. Which is what we have to flip with these. That’s my guess basically lol
@2fmrc Ahh gotcha, makes sense. The dual rear output shafts got me thinking, what if they're planning a 6x6 where the rear axle has its own driveshaft that goes over the top of the middle axle with like a hanger bearing or something? That might help with the middle axle twisting up and lifting a wheel like what happens with an Atlas 6x6.
Hey Matt, do you have any idea the difference in gear ratio between the fcx24 and cr18p axles are? The long stub shafts of the pro fit right in the fcx axle, looks like the you would just have to bore out the inner pin hole to the fcx size. Those axles are reverse rotation, right around the same width and have less play. You can pick up the whole fcx assembly for $17
Also, if the fcx ratio was a little lower you would get free overdrive. I might have to swap one in the pro just to see.
I’m not sure. I’ve thought about trying an fcx axles mixed with these but haven’t had time. Let me know what you find out if you go for it!
I’ve done it…works great. Took a $22 complete FMS rear axle assembly… straight bolt on affair.
I’m an electrician, when I loose the wheels pins i just cut up my spare copper wires to size fits like glove lol
You must be on asiatees Christmas card list. They've been sold out since you first featured the CR-18p! LOL! (and I won't mention the CAD$...) :D
???- How's Liam doing?
He’s doing very well. Thank you for asking! Healing very fast the Dr said and should get his boot off in about a wk!
@@2fmrc Awesome! Glad to hear it! Bet he's crawlin' the walls to get that thing off! Pass along a "Hello, Eh!" from up here in Canada! 👍
@@wingnutbert9685 i definitely will. He’ll love hearing you checked on him 🙏
Very nice Video😊🎉👌🏼
LG Manuel
There's a Red Brushless version on AliExpress I've been watching...makes my finger itchy...then I remember I just built up my fx118😂
Not sure I’m a bit confused. You spend a whole lot of money on upgrades shifted the torque twist to the other side and didn’t gain that much in incline capability. Are you really happy with the result 🤔🤔
Yeah pretty happy with it considering I haven’t did anything with electronics yet to get some of the weight lower and off the rear. It transfers it to the other side but it’s way way less than before. So in the end it’ll help a lot. Just need to swap tires and start working on the free mods to get the weight down now!
Sweet as I’ll keep an eye out for that. Keep up the great work anyway always very informative and I learn a lot so that’s good 🤘🤘
Are them not the most Giants stub 😊 axles you ever seen far as length
Yeah they are never ending lol
Hi Matt, got the exact same result like you. Just quickly installed the Hobby Plus Aluminium rear axle V2. Using now the counter rotating output. Result: gain in climbing plus 1° (57°), less torque twist but still there, now on the passenger side. But one has to consider:
- more weight at the back axle because I have not yet installed the Aluminium front axle
- spring rate not adjusted yet. ruclips.net/user/shortsale8JnhYcuk?si=vy_pIOL60gRipRVp
it's a slight improvement but i seem to have a different definiton of "FIX!"
Yeah it helps quite a bit honestly. You can also just swap in an fcx rear portal to change the direction. Obviously you can add stiffer springs etc but to me that messes with my suspension too much.
@@2fmrc thanks that's awesome to hear as i still have a furitek cayman i'm not using enough. is the front axle also compatible then?
These guys are learning from Traxxas 😂😂😂😂😂
@@nunocarneiro464 they should’ve picked someone better to learn from 😆 Traxxas crawlers usually = crap lol
Well here we are again, celebrated best RTR and then you have to pay an axle that costs more than the whole car. (As of 082024 the RCAWD axle set is 180 bucks)
@@snörre23 definitely don’t buy any Rc4wd axles. At this point we have the plastic housing available that allows you to flip the rear. Should be all you need . Pretty sure this is it.
www.helidirect.com/products/hobbyplus-rear-portal-axle-v2-for-cr-18p-2024
@@2fmrc yea that looks good thank you, quite hard to find parts for those. the only place in the world that has this in stock is helidirect and being in europe they charge 30 $ shipping costs. Part is listed and sold out or not available at many shops including asiatees, also listed but not available locally in europe via the absima brand. So i begin to regret buying a hobby plus brand car.
I got to say that I’m pretty disappointed in hobby Plus. They poorly engineer their product to have bad torque twist and then come out with a way to remedy most of it by redesign their rear axle but instead of making a redesigned $5 axle housing they make you purchase a housing that costs 1/4 the price of the complete car to fix their problem. I have 5 of their cars now so that $250 to fix them or $500 to not have them look mismatched…. I think I might be done with the brand.
Yeah it surprises me the price of that housing. Kinda crazy!
If you think that’s bad wait till you see how much Traxxas and axial sell their hop-up parts for. Also note that this rear axle only works for the 2 speed transmission housing with the secondary output. Not the cr18p single speed.
@@JUSTHAVEFUNRC good point, I didn’t even think of the single speed not having the additional output. The thing is, this isn’t a hop up part really. This is to fix their lack of engineering by making you buy a hop up part.
That’s the hobby man , they give us a product and we rely on people like @2fmrc to engineer them the correct way and make them better
@@dannydrones4274I totally understand that in this hobby you spend money on performance parts to make your rc better, I’ve been doing it for 20+ years but I’m disappointed with the fact that they didn’t make a normal cheap plastic axle that fixes the problem instead of just offering it in their bling axles. I guess I look at it as more of a recall thing and not a performance upgrade.
nope