Dude, you have now idea how helpful this video has been for me and how many times I have watched it. I was sold a lemon that was pretty much as bad as it gets. No experience wrenching on cars. 2004 Civic EX with a Dx engine they put in and bypassed the vtec. Every component was fried. I swapped the head back to the A2 (which is what the cpu wanted), pilot and release bearings, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, lower control arms, flywheel and pressure plate bolts all snapped on me ($200 for a mobile mechanic to bail me out there.. now I know the importance of fresh bolts)… the list goes on and on but with your video and the service manual i was able to make it happen. A couple more pieces to put back together and then the moment of truth. Thank you so much Ericthecarguy you are a life saver.
@@eVerProductions1 No, but many things are the same, if not easier. Make sure you get a basic transmission jack, and don’t mess with the rear main seal unless it is already leaking.
@@soldiersvejk2053 no offense but that part about not touching the rear main is just garbage. They're like 10 bucks and if you already have the Trans out why wouldn't you do it just as preventative maintenance? Just saying it sucks ass pulling a transmission for a 15 dollar seal...
@@Steelheart624 I think the rear main seal (especially Toyota's) can well last 20 years or 2 clutches. I really tried my best and was very careful, but after the replacement now I have a leak. Quite annoying though very small.
Even though I don't own a Honda, I can always pick up tips like checking dowel pins and how to touch up a flywheel. Thanks, Eric. I'll be watching for the next one.
Yes and for this particular generation of Civic service on the clutch and its hydraulics is not as easy. In fact, this vintage of civic in my opinion is definitely more difficult to work than the previous generation. Having owned one of these EM civics myself, a 2001, I can honestly say, I am ready not a fan of this generation of civic. Honda dropped the ball here in my humble opinion.
Just did this job this weekend. Guys buy a ball joint separator it will save you time. And make sure you do what he says with the input shaft bearing as well as lubing the splines and fork and all. Eric thank you so much for this video it helped immensely and proved to be invaluable.
2009-2012 I had a honda Car and it gave me a lot of troubles like random overheating. When I was struggling to find a solution your channel helped me to solve the issues I had. I never got a chance to thank you for that. Thank you! Keep up the good work!
@@ericthecarguy I noticed something when you were installing the clutch........ You said if you install the pilot bearing correctly, it'll go on nicely. If you don't do it correctly, you'll be fighting it. I think they were fighting with the pilot bearing and just forced it on the flywheel..... Which caused the gouging on the engine block
Oof. I just did this on my 2013 Camaro a couple weeks ago. Clutch was fine, but the dual mass flywheel had broken. Turns out they don't like hard launches over and over and over again. I'm happy I have a longitudinal mounted engine. I was able to do this fairly easily. I'm partial to LuK clutch sets. Never thought I'd be taking on jobs like this and watching you do them afterwards. I remember watching your videos when you were in that original shop space all those years ago.
Good to see you making videos again showing how to do it. I had stopped when you went away from repair / replacing and were doing sponsor and building cars. As DIYers we appreciate videos like this one and others where you go step by step on how to do it.
When i had my 95 integra i did a clutch job on it with floor jacks and stands. Yeah that was fun.. lots of cuss words, beer and a weekend. Helped a friend with his 91 civic too. Good times!
Just a suggestion for those working under rusty cars. Even if you have your safety squints on, you can sometimes get rust in your eyes anyhow. I was working under my 01 Ranger to replace a rusted out rear shackle mount, it was raining rust when I chiseled off some of the rivets. Got some rust in the ol eyes. Tried to get it out with a q-tip, couldn't. Remembered that I had some neodynium magnets from a hard drive I had disassembled, got that, rubbed it along my eye/lid area and boy, worked like a charm... sucked that rust right out. We tend to forget that rust is still magnetic! Love the vids! The longer how-to's are great!
I agree. EXEDY is the way to go! I still have my 03 EX 5spd that I purchased back in 2006 still going strong. So it was nice to see this video! Well done!
EXEDY is a Japanese company that specializes in manufacturing clutches. they are the go to brand as OEM in many Japanese cars. you can never go wrong with their products.
Eric, you are greatly appreciated brother. Thank you for taking the time to record this. It must have been frustrating with all the editing and camera placement, on top of narrating with a smile. My hat is off to you. The least we can do is leave a decent comment. Thanks againg man.
Eric, your videos are always helpful and educational, with a probable clutch replacement coming up, this one is super timely. I just wanted to say thanks for continuing to make your videos, and the care you take to have good lighting and legible clear sound really make them a joy to watch and listen to.
The mark of a true master mechanic making the job look much easier than it really is... Thanks for the video! I also have a 2005 Civic DX and I learned enough to know that I am going to have to bring it to Honda... I also have the same EXACT noise.
Oh, yes! This is the kind of nuts-and-bolts video that got me into ETCG in the first place. I learned how to replace a clutch in my brother's Ford Focus by watching this channel. That was years ago, but ETCG just gets better and better. Still the best company... still the best on RUclips.
I remember that video. It was my sister-in-laws car. She ended up killing it at some point. She also ended up with my 2001 Odyssey. I think that one is still going. Always great to see you. Have a great weekend.
@@ericthecarguy Haha - I didn't realize it was a family member's car. I remember the phrase, "If you could see and smell this car... if you could see and smell this car..." I assumed it was a regular customer's vehicle. ruclips.net/video/dZpmfao4amM/видео.html @29:05
Well car guy, after doing complete engine rebuild, replace 2 valves on head, install it all back together, (new clutch etc last year) install it, 4 weeks after it runs like a champ with no leaks, the trans started slipping and in 1st n 2nd gear is very very slow at start. The '92 trans has over 260-275k miles, so I'm keeping the axle hub nut factory in business. At least supporting it yearly. I've got an synchrotec rebuild trans from san dimas CA. On the way. Im definitely going to get the manual trans fluid as before I was using 5w30 which the haynes manual recommended, gear oil when I started hearing noise. Engine still running super well and burning/leaking virtually no oil.
The Honda manual transmission fluid is so great that I had that put into my Subaru Impreza gearbox(which calls for 75W90), and no adverse issue whatsover; it yielded great syncrho action and increased fuel economy.
This is perfect timing for me. I'm about to install a Twin disc clutch and a 5th gear synchro in my Evo 9 . I know different car Yada Yada Yada. But! I believe some of your process may contribute to my job. Thanks Eric!
your videos help me a great deal! especially this one.i own my own garage but don't generally don't do big jobs like this but from watching this i just put my own clutch in my 05' EP3...keep up the great videos!!!
Nice work, man! Can tell you've done that job a few times before. I just finished the transmission swap slog on my '07 Silverado 1500 (GMT-900) 4x4 - hands down THE WORST job I have EVER done in my life! Every single thing I touched fought me from start to finish!! Even the install took forever! Stainless steel exhaust flange nut rounded off, and I had to snap the stainless stud off, then drill that mess out. Was on my lift for 16 straight days. I had to take a couple weekends off, plus several hours of walking away. NIGHTMARE. Nobody could pay me enough to ever take this on again. Seriously! The new transmission is sweet, though. I bought it from PerformaBuilt out in PA. It's built like a tank. Beast sunshell, Sonnax Smart Tech drum, 5-pinion planets, the best clutches, wider / better bands, plus oiling and hydraulic mods, & finished up with a FTI 2k RPM stall converter. She's nice now! 3rd hits HARD now. Used to not even feel it, or 4th gear engage. I burned up 3rd and 4th in the stock one, so that's a good thing, for sure! Very happy with it, but I dread the day this engine fails (should be soon!). Way too much work!
In the 70's I was working as a diesel heavy equipment mechanic. I have replaced clutches for transmissions that weigh as much as that car. Lots of fun. What he said about good grounds is very very important. I was working on a Ford stake bed truck back when Ford had external regulators on their alternators. Every time the driver turned on the lights he would smell a strong rotten egg smell because the battery started heating up and boiling. Turned out that the ground between the body and the engine block was corroded and loose and every time he turned the lights on they were grounding through the regulator. That caused the regulator to malfunction because it was not able to ground and its electronics could not tell how much voltage the alternator was putting out so it just kept increasing the voltage beyond my meter's ability to measure. Took the ground strap off the block, cleaned it up real good, put a new star lock washer on it, put some dielectric grease on the mating surfaces to stop corrosion, tightened it down very tightly, replaced the battery, and everything ran fine.
Great video! If you use GM Synchromesh, be sure to use the White bottle which has the friction modifier. It completely fixed the issues in my 6mt 2005 TL
Used to use GM Synchromesh in my 03 Mustang GT. Good stuff for manual transmissions. "cross threads are better than no threads." Those swaybar end links are junk. Had a set and they seized up within months. Freaking good feeling to fix something yourself!
How long does an Exedy clutch typically last for? I know it's mostly based off driving habits, but what I should expect in terms of an OEM replacement clutch from Exedy under normal driving conditions?
This series will complete my how to videos that I need now. I have an 03 accord V6 6-speed. I also have the symptoms of an input shaft bearing going bad. I changed the trany fluid(honda brand of course) and it quieted it down by 30%-50% no joke, but now I know what it is, (i presumed what it was before) it's going to cause me anxiety until I get it fixed. I'm looking forward to the input shaft bearing replacement video. Thanx Eric
Awesome video man! Very detailed steps love how u show everything you do, not just edit through it. Thanks man helped me out n learned a couple new things along the way
Nice job, Eric! A couple of points, tho.... One is that removing the cradle will require an alignment after reinstallation, as many car's cradles placement does affect the alignment, Been there, done that. I'm a Chrysler dealer tech, and have worked in the bodyshop as a mechanical tech for a few years, did a lot of cradle/subframe replacement and alignments. I'm in the main service shop now, still do alignments from time to time. The second point, i agree about how important grounds are. With everything apart, it's a good time to replace corroded cables and to clean the ground points. Grounds are so important, the pcm in most cars control things thru grounds, and with a bad ground, they'll be a lot of electrical weirdness going on. Also , Eric, you mentioned in the video about antiseize drying out, yet recommend using it on the slave cylinder pivot ball. Would be better to use the high temp grease in there, too.
Awesome video I took the transmission apart and put new seals and the input shaft put it all together and still have the same problem I watched both videos. They were helpful, but I still have the same problem.
Reminds me of when the snap ring on the center diff blew up in my friends Subaru. Sounded like a bag of rocks in neutral, amazed it didn't make more noise after seeing the carnage inside. Looking forward to the input shaft bearing replacement vid.
Good to hear how high quality Exedy parts are. I remember the gentleman who did the rebuild on my Prelude used an Exedy clutch for the job while he was in there, I've had zero issues
Nice vid Eric 👍 I've learned the hard way using antiseize and high-temp silicone grease on clutch fork/bearing/ball surfaces. ALWAYS use wheel bearing grease (in fact, Exedy recommends it). The others aren't good lubricants and will cause binding or squeaks.
the milwaukee line up is nice aint it. i just dropped 3k on em. they even had an compressor powered by a battery. really took my mobile business to the next level. glad to see you approve of em. although idk about the extended ratchet, I got the matco one, it has served me well.
I've done a complete manual trans rebuild on a '99. They're not too bad really. The most difficult part for me was reinstalling the trans and getting it to line up perfectly with the input shaft splines. Needed an extra set of hands
Nice job on the clutch replacement. If I were in your shoes and had enough time, I would remove the dust from the main frame and put some paint on it. I just don't like rust.
FYI: Factory clutch disc and pressure plate for most Hondas are made by F.C.C (Fuji Chemical Company). Sometimes you can buy them in an FCC box for a lot less money. Throwout bearings are Koyo or NSK depending on application. PIlot bearing is NTN but the Honda dealer usually costs less. Honda's newer dual-mass clutch/flywheel setups were made by L.U.K. and can be had for cheaper in an LUK box.
@EricTheCarGuy Thanks Eric for video. I've replaced clutch in 2004 Civic (European 5 door hatchback). Thanks to tutorial it went without any problems. Your are awesome!
After watching your vido, I will work hard to save enough money; so as to be able to vigorously avoid a used car lot! Please continue with these types of very practical videos.
Wish this video came out a year ago when I replaced my isb on my 03, which had the same problem lol. I was able to take a transmission out the top though
An important part is the drivers side engine mount and the transmission mount will balance the engine. From there you can wobble the whole engine around to align the rear and front mount. I believe the shop manual says driver, trans, rear, then front mount. I did this on an accord and about to try on this year civic. Thanks for the video. The timing of this video couldnt be better.
Thanks! My 07 Accord needed its first clutch replacement at 230,000. It only took three weeks for the mechanic to replace it! Lol. When I picked it up the engine was destroyed. Bent valves. The timing chain intact. Got a used engine and had a dealer put it in. Up to 250,00 almost. Hope to get another 100,000 out of it!
Good help here but I would add a couple of thoughts. First, it's much easier on the mount at the top of the transmission to remove the three fasteners from the transmission than to remove the through bolt that runs through the rubber mount. There are 2 studs and one bolt. Far easier to remove than wresling the bolt that you did since interference with the battery tray is a pita. And when you are going back together it is far easier to get everything lined up because the studs are about 2 inches long and tapered at the end so getting the transmission into the mount is far easier. Second, instead of reching under all the stuff that blocks your view of the starter bolts and transmission to block bolts from the top, just get them all after you drop the whole thing down after you remove the front frame. You can see evry one of the bolts very easily and it's a straight shot with an extension to remove them instead of wrestling with 3 different length extensions and wobble sockets.
This reminds me of the 2002 ford focus clutch video you did years and years ago... You also just lifted that gearbox back into place too! You make it look easier than it is thats for sure
I appreciate the very good and informative video but after fighting this thing laying on my back for 2 hours here and 2 hours there, fighting a ball joint for a day, buying two motor mounts front and back that were torn up, and currently fighting to get the back motor mount lined back up, I have decided that working on this old car isn't worth it. I'm about ready to put it on a roll back and haul it down to Honda and see if they will take it and scrap it and just buy me a new one. I thought it would be fun to do but it has just been so aggravating. It makes me appreciate you mechanics even more. The video is great though.
thank you so much Eric my 02 civic is doing the same thing input bearing and this step by step video will help me tackle the job wish i had you here to help lol. Anyway very thorough video done well and we all thank you for the time you put in to these videos very much.
Super informative! I’ve done a whole bunch of older civic clutch installs, but this having a subframe makes it a bit different. Not to bad from what I see, should help with the clutch install I’m gonna do on this 2005 civic I’m repairing for sale. Thanks for this!
I was able to pull out the transmission from the top, did not have to mess with the subframe. Great video! Wish it was available in 2019 when I did it.
@@jacobashby4374 Clear all hoses and lines in the way, there is enough room to separate the transmission from the engine, the transmission can lay on the subframe, tie a strap around it, and then my buddy and I lifted it out. You must manipulate the transmission as you pull it out, but there is enough room, kind of like a puzzle. Be careful not to bend the hydraulic lines.
I just did this last night on my 05 Civic SI and was able to leave the sub frame on, I was able to get it to moved over to the drivers side, towards the wheel well about 6-7 inches. It rested on a jack and the subframe.
I’m doing this job at the moment, on the ground. I think if you have a lift it would be convenient to drop the subframe and drop it down below. But if it’s on the ground it’s definitely possible to do the job without removing the subframe.
If you pull the sensor out for the reverse lights you can take the bracket off that supports the pipe for the slave cylinder off and then you almost don’t even have to drop the engine you can just fish the gearbox out
First! At least in my mind.... Thanks for the video. Very helpful. It's always educational to see a skilled professional do a job. Including dropping the damm bolts. Happens all the time to me. Haven't yet figured out how to defeat gravity, and no, putting bolts where they won't easily fall just wouldn't make the job fun.
ive have found using a #3 drill drift works really well at separating ball joints from the frame etc. also handy for driving out the axles from their sockets. try it. no more hammering control arms. drifts are common machine shop tool for separating morse taper shank drills.
i doubt manual transmissions care what oil you put in them lol as long as its manual gear oil. amsoil is the best oil. good job Eric it was satisfying to watch
Everyone always claim Exedy to be excellent part but before I can get to give it a try, the one I purchased for my 8th gen civic from Rockauto came in with the bolt hole kind of off a few mm on the pressure plate so my mechanic was not able to properly install. I couldn't find any local automotive store that carrys Exedy product at the time and my mechanic doesn't have to space to keep my car inside the shop or lift up until I get a replacement from Rockauto, so I had to settle with the only clutch I could find locally. Which was from a Korean brand called "LUV" I believe, It was from autozone for about the same price as the Exedy stage 1 that I got. It felt pretty good and since I've never get to use a Exedy clutch before, so I can't do a good comparison. It's truly a shame that I couldn't have that Exedy experience, maybe sometime in the future. I'm not sure if it was just my bad luck with Exedy or Rockauto faults on this, I did got my refund and almost even out the cost. Great video as always btw!
It's been a while since I have seen your channel Eric, I got busy with work. It's funny just as the camera cut to you working on the lift I was like, OMG he has a lift now I'm so jealous!, queue you saying Yeah I have a lift, lift envy lol. Great timing.
Great video. I like you. Worth a mention I did my bro in laws clutch for his 2004 Ford Focus many moons ago thanks to your video. Thank you 🙏 he had several years of fun out of that car.
Eric I’m going to remove my gearbox as a bolt broke where a bracket being fastened on gearbox which in turn holds the crossmember mounting broke. They could not get it out and having had the clutch for 5 years I don’t want to go down there (being diy), so I will also replace the clutch. I’m dealing with one major issue whereby the 5 gear jumps out suddenly on high way even with slightest bump on road. They say Nissan Sentra (SR20 2litre, 1998), has that problem. However I only drove 5 years with it since I got the second hand replacement one from Japan. I’m hoping it’s not in the gearbox, though there is a similar problem whereby when in neutral there is a slight grinding noise in gearbox (though I think I can live with). This happened when I didn’t realize the alternator was to be serviced, battery got flat and I push started it in second gear, but have put it in whilst moving (was a bad move). Thanks for videos over the years
Dude, you have now idea how helpful this video has been for me and how many times I have watched it. I was sold a lemon that was pretty much as bad as it gets. No experience wrenching on cars. 2004 Civic EX with a Dx engine they put in and bypassed the vtec. Every component was fried. I swapped the head back to the A2 (which is what the cpu wanted), pilot and release bearings, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, lower control arms, flywheel and pressure plate bolts all snapped on me ($200 for a mobile mechanic to bail me out there.. now I know the importance of fresh bolts)… the list goes on and on but with your video and the service manual i was able to make it happen. A couple more pieces to put back together and then the moment of truth. Thank you so much Ericthecarguy you are a life saver.
Girls: "He's probably out cheating on me"
Boys: Watching 54 minute ETCG video about a Civic clutch replacement
ain't that the tooth!
LMAO!
Liar liar pants on fire and im a chick watching this. Still waiting for a answer about my question a while back
Well said lol.
That's what my wife says she be like what are you looking at? I be like car stuff she dont believe me she thinks I look at girl and shit!
I felt like I was actually helping when you yelled I was “always in the way” just like my dad used to do.
Awe :(
*hugs*
😂
19:20 "You're always so in the way!"
Replaced the clutch of my little Yaris by myself. Learned so much along the way. Great experience.
Using this video?
@@eVerProductions1 No, but many things are the same, if not easier. Make sure you get a basic transmission jack, and don’t mess with the rear main seal unless it is already leaking.
@@soldiersvejk2053 no offense but that part about not touching the rear main is just garbage. They're like 10 bucks and if you already have the Trans out why wouldn't you do it just as preventative maintenance? Just saying it sucks ass pulling a transmission for a 15 dollar seal...
@@Steelheart624 I think the rear main seal (especially Toyota's) can well last 20 years or 2 clutches. I really tried my best and was very careful, but after the replacement now I have a leak. Quite annoying though very small.
Even though I don't own a Honda, I can always pick up tips like checking dowel pins and how to touch up a flywheel. Thanks, Eric. I'll be watching for the next one.
you should own a honda :) - they are so beautifully built (I have 2 cars and a motorbike)
Anyone that wonders why a clutch replacement is so expensive, should watch a video like this.
Yes, I know because I just did the clutch job on my truck with my boys for the first time and we knew how hard it was but had a great bonding time.
Or doing a rear main seal
At least in this car you do not need to take out the whole engine+transmission to work on it.
@@terminator7137 update us on how the task was to do solo
Yes and for this particular generation of Civic service on the clutch and its hydraulics is not as easy. In fact, this vintage of civic in my opinion is definitely more difficult to work than the previous generation. Having owned one of these EM civics myself, a 2001, I can honestly say, I am ready not a fan of this generation of civic. Honda dropped the ball here in my humble opinion.
Just did this job this weekend. Guys buy a ball joint separator it will save you time. And make sure you do what he says with the input shaft bearing as well as lubing the splines and fork and all. Eric thank you so much for this video it helped immensely and proved to be invaluable.
2009-2012 I had a honda Car and it gave me a lot of troubles like random overheating. When I was struggling to find a solution your channel helped me to solve the issues I had. I never got a chance to thank you for that. Thank you! Keep up the good work!
I hope Erics son appreciates what a cool Dad he has. Father envy on my part.
He does. He was very thankful when I gave the car back and he drove it for the first time.
@@ericthecarguy I noticed something when you were installing the clutch........ You said if you install the pilot bearing correctly, it'll go on nicely. If you don't do it correctly, you'll be fighting it. I think they were fighting with the pilot bearing and just forced it on the flywheel..... Which caused the gouging on the engine block
Oof. I just did this on my 2013 Camaro a couple weeks ago. Clutch was fine, but the dual mass flywheel had broken. Turns out they don't like hard launches over and over and over again. I'm happy I have a longitudinal mounted engine. I was able to do this fairly easily.
I'm partial to LuK clutch sets.
Never thought I'd be taking on jobs like this and watching you do them afterwards. I remember watching your videos when you were in that original shop space all those years ago.
Good to see you making videos again showing how to do it. I had stopped when you went away from repair / replacing and were doing sponsor and building cars. As DIYers we appreciate videos like this one and others where you go step by step on how to do it.
When i had my 95 integra i did a clutch job on it with floor jacks and stands. Yeah that was fun.. lots of cuss words, beer and a weekend. Helped a friend with his 91 civic too. Good times!
Really glad to see you back to doing good old normal repairs again. I still miss the "fixing it forward" series. Great video Eric.
Just a suggestion for those working under rusty cars. Even if you have your safety squints on, you can sometimes get rust in your eyes anyhow. I was working under my 01 Ranger to replace a rusted out rear shackle mount, it was raining rust when I chiseled off some of the rivets. Got some rust in the ol eyes. Tried to get it out with a q-tip, couldn't. Remembered that I had some neodynium magnets from a hard drive I had disassembled, got that, rubbed it along my eye/lid area and boy, worked like a charm... sucked that rust right out. We tend to forget that rust is still magnetic!
Love the vids! The longer how-to's are great!
I agree. EXEDY is the way to go! I still have my 03 EX 5spd that I purchased back in 2006 still going strong. So it was nice to see this video! Well done!
EXEDY is a Japanese company that specializes in manufacturing clutches. they are the go to brand as OEM in many Japanese cars. you can never go wrong with their products.
Eric, you are greatly appreciated brother. Thank you for taking the time to record this. It must have been frustrating with all the editing and camera placement, on top of narrating with a smile. My hat is off to you. The least we can do is leave a decent comment. Thanks againg man.
Eric, your videos are always helpful and educational, with a probable clutch replacement coming up, this one is super timely. I just wanted to say thanks for continuing to make your videos, and the care you take to have good lighting and legible clear sound really make them a joy to watch and listen to.
The mark of a true master mechanic making the job look much easier than it really is... Thanks for the video! I also have a 2005 Civic DX and I learned enough to know that I am going to have to bring it to Honda... I also have the same EXACT noise.
Oh, yes! This is the kind of nuts-and-bolts video that got me into ETCG in the first place. I learned how to replace a clutch in my brother's Ford Focus by watching this channel. That was years ago, but ETCG just gets better and better. Still the best company... still the best on RUclips.
I remember that video. It was my sister-in-laws car. She ended up killing it at some point. She also ended up with my 2001 Odyssey. I think that one is still going. Always great to see you. Have a great weekend.
@@ericthecarguy Haha - I didn't realize it was a family member's car. I remember the phrase, "If you could see and smell this car... if you could see and smell this car..." I assumed it was a regular customer's vehicle.
ruclips.net/video/dZpmfao4amM/видео.html
@29:05
“Throw your fasteners on the floor to temper them”. Lol.
This is quite a monster job, and you sir, are quite a good father!
A nice, easy clutch job. Got to love the way hondas are designed.
80's 90's early 00's YESSSS
Well car guy, after doing complete engine rebuild, replace 2 valves on head, install it all back together, (new clutch etc last year) install it, 4 weeks after it runs like a champ with no leaks, the trans started slipping and in 1st n 2nd gear is very very slow at start. The '92 trans has over 260-275k miles, so I'm keeping the axle hub nut factory in business. At least supporting it yearly. I've got an synchrotec rebuild trans from san dimas CA. On the way. Im definitely going to get the manual trans fluid as before I was using 5w30 which the haynes manual recommended, gear oil when I started hearing noise. Engine still running super well and burning/leaking virtually no oil.
So it's a real bummer that I didn't have the money to get the rebuild when the engine/head were out, but hey, it is what it is.
Hope ur running honda genuine fluid u can feel the difference
The Honda manual transmission fluid is so great that I had that put into my Subaru Impreza gearbox(which calls for 75W90), and no adverse issue whatsover; it yielded great syncrho action and increased fuel economy.
This is perfect timing for me. I'm about to install a Twin disc clutch and a 5th gear synchro in my Evo 9 . I know different car Yada Yada Yada. But! I believe some of your process may contribute to my job. Thanks Eric!
your videos help me a great deal! especially this one.i own my own garage but don't generally don't do big jobs like this but from watching this i just put my own clutch in my 05' EP3...keep up the great videos!!!
Nice work, man! Can tell you've done that job a few times before.
I just finished the transmission swap slog on my '07 Silverado 1500 (GMT-900) 4x4 - hands down THE WORST job I have EVER done in my life! Every single thing I touched fought me from start to finish!! Even the install took forever! Stainless steel exhaust flange nut rounded off, and I had to snap the stainless stud off, then drill that mess out. Was on my lift for 16 straight days. I had to take a couple weekends off, plus several hours of walking away. NIGHTMARE. Nobody could pay me enough to ever take this on again. Seriously! The new transmission is sweet, though. I bought it from PerformaBuilt out in PA. It's built like a tank. Beast sunshell, Sonnax Smart Tech drum, 5-pinion planets, the best clutches, wider / better bands, plus oiling and hydraulic mods, & finished up with a FTI 2k RPM stall converter. She's nice now! 3rd hits HARD now. Used to not even feel it, or 4th gear engage. I burned up 3rd and 4th in the stock one, so that's a good thing, for sure! Very happy with it, but I dread the day this engine fails (should be soon!). Way too much work!
My lift was the best investment I have made in my shop, many car guys enjoy it too.
In the 70's I was working as a diesel heavy equipment mechanic. I have replaced clutches for transmissions that weigh as much as that car. Lots of fun.
What he said about good grounds is very very important. I was working on a Ford stake bed truck back when Ford had external regulators on their alternators. Every time the driver turned on the lights he would smell a strong rotten egg smell because the battery started heating up and boiling. Turned out that the ground between the body and the engine block was corroded and loose and every time he turned the lights on they were grounding through the regulator. That caused the regulator to malfunction because it was not able to ground and its electronics could not tell how much voltage the alternator was putting out so it just kept increasing the voltage beyond my meter's ability to measure. Took the ground strap off the block, cleaned it up real good, put a new star lock washer on it, put some dielectric grease on the mating surfaces to stop corrosion, tightened it down very tightly, replaced the battery, and everything ran fine.
You made a very good point. The importance of good grounds on a vehicle cannot be over emphasized.
Activity knowledge I believe is the clear pathway to success in any job
Eric we appreciate you for sharing the knowledge you have gathered through the years.
Great video! If you use GM Synchromesh, be sure to use the White bottle which has the friction modifier. It completely fixed the issues in my 6mt 2005 TL
Used to use GM Synchromesh in my 03 Mustang GT. Good stuff for manual transmissions. "cross threads are better than no threads." Those swaybar end links are junk. Had a set and they seized up within months. Freaking good feeling to fix something yourself!
Man, to remember how all that goes back together is amazing.
It's way easier with the old Honda pre 2010
Exedy is one of the best out there for Japanese cars. I've had two cars with them and no problems at all. My Forester has the stage 1 and I love it.
How long does an Exedy clutch typically last for? I know it's mostly based off driving habits, but what I should expect in terms of an OEM replacement clutch from Exedy under normal driving conditions?
I have lift-envy, I plan on getting eventually.
I have garage envy. Lol
Me too
This series will complete my how to videos that I need now. I have an 03 accord V6 6-speed. I also have the symptoms of an input shaft bearing going bad. I changed the trany fluid(honda brand of course) and it quieted it down by 30%-50% no joke, but now I know what it is, (i presumed what it was before) it's going to cause me anxiety until I get it fixed. I'm looking forward to the input shaft bearing replacement video. Thanx Eric
Awesome video man! Very detailed steps love how u show everything you do, not just edit through it. Thanks man helped me out n learned a couple new things along the way
Nice job, Eric! A couple of points, tho.... One is that removing the cradle will require an alignment after reinstallation, as many car's cradles placement does affect the alignment, Been there, done that. I'm a Chrysler dealer tech, and have worked in the bodyshop as a mechanical tech for a few years, did a lot of cradle/subframe replacement and alignments. I'm in the main service shop now, still do alignments from time to time. The second point, i agree about how important grounds are. With everything apart, it's a good time to replace corroded cables and to clean the ground points. Grounds are so important, the pcm in most cars control things thru grounds, and with a bad ground, they'll be a lot of electrical weirdness going on. Also , Eric, you mentioned in the video about antiseize drying out, yet recommend using it on the slave cylinder pivot ball. Would be better to use the high temp grease in there, too.
Awesome video I took the transmission apart and put new seals and the input shaft put it all together and still have the same problem I watched both videos. They were helpful, but I still have the same problem.
I have a lot of lift envy I must admit. Good work, appreciate it.
Reminds me of when the snap ring on the center diff blew up in my friends Subaru. Sounded like a bag of rocks in neutral, amazed it didn't make more noise after seeing the carnage inside. Looking forward to the input shaft bearing replacement vid.
Good to hear how high quality Exedy parts are. I remember the gentleman who did the rebuild on my Prelude used an Exedy clutch for the job while he was in there, I've had zero issues
Thanks Eric for your video 👍 Just what I needed to perform this task...
Nice vid Eric 👍 I've learned the hard way using antiseize and high-temp silicone grease on clutch fork/bearing/ball surfaces. ALWAYS use wheel bearing grease (in fact, Exedy recommends it). The others aren't good lubricants and will cause binding or squeaks.
the milwaukee line up is nice aint it. i just dropped 3k on em. they even had an compressor powered by a battery. really took my mobile business to the next level. glad to see you approve of em. although idk about the extended ratchet, I got the matco one, it has served me well.
Thanks for video! youre the go-to honda repair channel on youtube! We appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
Thank you for putting this together. Your walk through was spot on and got me through a clutch replacement.
I've done a complete manual trans rebuild on a '99. They're not too bad really. The most difficult part for me was reinstalling the trans and getting it to line up perfectly with the input shaft splines. Needed an extra set of hands
Man how time Flys I remember when you were a Tiny Tiny channel in that little tiny garage that had no room at all good work as always @EricTheCarGuy
Best how to video on replacing clutches and pilot shaft bearings, nice work Eric.
I don’t have a lift, but i have a 15 ft long and 6 ft high repair pit. It works pretty good for me. Great video BTW.
Nice job on the clutch replacement. If I were in your shoes and had enough time, I would remove the dust from the main frame and put some paint on it. I just don't like rust.
HANDS DOWN ERIC IS THE BEST! LOVE HIS VIDEOS
FYI: Factory clutch disc and pressure plate for most Hondas are made by F.C.C (Fuji Chemical Company). Sometimes you can buy them in an FCC box for a lot less money. Throwout bearings are Koyo or NSK depending on application. PIlot bearing is NTN but the Honda dealer usually costs less. Honda's newer dual-mass clutch/flywheel setups were made by L.U.K. and can be had for cheaper in an LUK box.
I just got a 2003 honda civic with exactly the same sound, thanks Eric!
You will also appreciate next weeks video. Be sure to catch that one also.
@EricTheCarGuy Thanks Eric for video. I've replaced clutch in 2004 Civic (European 5 door hatchback). Thanks to tutorial it went without any problems. Your are awesome!
After watching your vido, I will work hard to save enough money; so as to be able to vigorously avoid a used car lot!
Please continue with these types of very practical videos.
Wish this video came out a year ago when I replaced my isb on my 03, which had the same problem lol. I was able to take a transmission out the top though
Thank you sir... I was able to complete the replacement with little to no issue. Great vid!
An important part is the drivers side engine mount and the transmission mount will balance the engine. From there you can wobble the whole engine around to align the rear and front mount. I believe the shop manual says driver, trans, rear, then front mount. I did this on an accord and about to try on this year civic. Thanks for the video. The timing of this video couldnt be better.
Thanks! My 07 Accord needed its first clutch replacement at 230,000. It only took three weeks for the mechanic to replace it! Lol. When I picked it up the engine was destroyed. Bent valves. The timing chain intact. Got a used engine and had a dealer put it in. Up to 250,00 almost. Hope to get another 100,000 out of it!
Great video. Nicely done. Thank you for NOT having any silly background music.
Good help here but I would add a couple of thoughts. First, it's much easier on the mount at the top of the transmission to remove the three fasteners from the transmission than to remove the through bolt that runs through the rubber mount. There are 2 studs and one bolt. Far easier to remove than wresling the bolt that you did since interference with the battery tray is a pita. And when you are going back together it is far easier to get everything lined up because the studs are about 2 inches long and tapered at the end so getting the transmission into the mount is far easier. Second, instead of reching under all the stuff that blocks your view of the starter bolts and transmission to block bolts from the top, just get them all after you drop the whole thing down after you remove the front frame. You can see evry one of the bolts very easily and it's a straight shot with an extension to remove them instead of wrestling with 3 different length extensions and wobble sockets.
I had replaced the clutc too on that year Civic. Just do not like a stubborn ball joint. Good tutorial.
I was on the edge of my seat! Clapped at the end for you lol im excited to do mine now
Excellent work! Incredible how previous mechanics that worked on the car, could do such a terrible job
U make it look so easy. Been watchin you for years! Great work.
This reminds me of the 2002 ford focus clutch video you did years and years ago... You also just lifted that gearbox back into place too! You make it look easier than it is thats for sure
No wonder you have one and a half million subscribers. You do good work bro, and you give a damn about quality.
I appreciate the very good and informative video but after fighting this thing laying on my back for 2 hours here and 2 hours there, fighting a ball joint for a day, buying two motor mounts front and back that were torn up, and currently fighting to get the back motor mount lined back up, I have decided that working on this old car isn't worth it. I'm about ready to put it on a roll back and haul it down to Honda and see if they will take it and scrap it and just buy me a new one. I thought it would be fun to do but it has just been so aggravating. It makes me appreciate you mechanics even more. The video is great though.
Very descriptive and easy to follow. Very professional. I wish I had you working on my car.
I have this same model car 01-05 would love more content on this model, thanks Eric!
i am so thankful for this eric 😂
I hope RUclips is paying you cause ur wrk is awesome.
thank you so much Eric my 02 civic is doing the same thing input bearing and this step by step video will help me tackle the job wish i had you here to help lol. Anyway very thorough video done well and we all thank you for the time you put in to these videos very much.
This is EXACTLY what’s happening to my 05 civic, thank you!
Super informative! I’ve done a whole bunch of older civic clutch installs, but this having a subframe makes it a bit different. Not to bad from what I see, should help with the clutch install I’m gonna do on this 2005 civic I’m repairing for sale. Thanks for this!
I was able to pull out the transmission from the top, did not have to mess with the subframe. Great video! Wish it was available in 2019 when I did it.
How did you do it
@@jacobashby4374 Clear all hoses and lines in the way, there is enough room to separate the transmission from the engine, the transmission can lay on the subframe, tie a strap around it, and then my buddy and I lifted it out. You must manipulate the transmission as you pull it out, but there is enough room, kind of like a puzzle. Be careful not to bend the hydraulic lines.
I just did this last night on my 05 Civic SI and was able to leave the sub frame on, I was able to get it to moved over to the drivers side, towards the wheel well about 6-7 inches. It rested on a jack and the subframe.
I’m doing this job at the moment, on the ground. I think if you have a lift it would be convenient to drop the subframe and drop it down below. But if it’s on the ground it’s definitely possible to do the job without removing the subframe.
If you pull the sensor out for the reverse lights you can take the bracket off that supports the pipe for the slave cylinder off and then you almost don’t even have to drop the engine you can just fish the gearbox out
41:05 Eric looking like Gandalf the grey carrying that support like a staff. keep making more videos, Eric. we love watching them.
First! At least in my mind....
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. It's always educational to see a skilled professional do a job. Including dropping the damm bolts. Happens all the time to me. Haven't yet figured out how to defeat gravity, and no, putting bolts where they won't easily fall just wouldn't make the job fun.
You are amazing for making this video at the time and I am very grateful for it! Have a good one man. 👍
Super coming on the d series trans for the input shaft bearings to fail. Great clutch kit btw for stock applications
Super common**
I want an 01-05 Honda civic now. Great video Eric.
Absolutely awesome! Can I call you when my son's manual Fiesta needs a new clutch?? LOL 😆
ive have found using a #3 drill drift works really well at separating ball joints from the frame etc. also handy for driving out the axles from their sockets. try it. no more hammering control arms. drifts are common machine shop tool for separating morse taper shank drills.
Im very grateful for this video, even you filmed the reinstall thing.
"Booger welds" - LOL! Never heard that before, but it is a perfect description!
i doubt manual transmissions care what oil you put in them lol as long as its manual gear oil. amsoil is the best oil. good job Eric it was satisfying to watch
Not true with Hondas. I wouldn't have mentioned it if I didn't think it was important. Thanks for the comment.
Great video Eric!! I wish i could press that like button twice!! I really miss cameraman Brian though!! Greetings from Greece!!
Hey Eric been watching your videos for a long time you make auto repair fun.
Yep, the jury rigging has been quite strong with this car. That positive battery cable looks like it's pretty close to going the way of the dodo.
That can't be true. They're still lingering mostely in academia, congress and the news (narrative) industry. Wasn't it a dodo who rigged it?
first clutch I did, I used a broom handle as a clutch alignment tool...
🤔😬
Everyone always claim Exedy to be excellent part but before I can get to give it a try, the one I purchased for my 8th gen civic from Rockauto came in with the bolt hole kind of off a few mm on the pressure plate so my mechanic was not able to properly install. I couldn't find any local automotive store that carrys Exedy product at the time and my mechanic doesn't have to space to keep my car inside the shop or lift up until I get a replacement from Rockauto, so I had to settle with the only clutch I could find locally. Which was from a Korean brand called "LUV" I believe, It was from autozone for about the same price as the Exedy stage 1 that I got. It felt pretty good and since I've never get to use a Exedy clutch before, so I can't do a good comparison. It's truly a shame that I couldn't have that Exedy experience, maybe sometime in the future. I'm not sure if it was just my bad luck with Exedy or Rockauto faults on this, I did got my refund and almost even out the cost. Great video as always btw!
I love how neatly you work. Now if you'd just use a wirewheel on all those grubby/rusty threads.. You're a hell of a fixer mister
You have V nice vices ,very clear smooth speaking style, you can find a job essay on radio or television,enjoyed the video.
I did it!!! Changed my clutch and the front right axle and a motormount. Totally new to all this. THANKS TO YOU and this video! Thank you!😃😃😃
you rock. congrats.
It's been a while since I have seen your channel Eric, I got busy with work. It's funny just as the camera cut to you working on the lift I was like, OMG he has a lift now I'm so jealous!, queue you saying Yeah I have a lift, lift envy lol.
Great timing.
Great video. I like you. Worth a mention I did my bro in laws clutch for his 2004 Ford Focus many moons ago thanks to your video. Thank you 🙏 he had several years of fun out of that car.
Eric I’m going to remove my gearbox as a bolt broke where a bracket being fastened on gearbox which in turn holds the crossmember mounting broke. They could not get it out and having had the clutch for 5 years I don’t want to go down there (being diy), so I will also replace the clutch. I’m dealing with one major issue whereby the 5 gear jumps out suddenly on high way even with slightest bump on road. They say Nissan Sentra (SR20 2litre, 1998), has that problem. However I only drove 5 years with it since I got the second hand replacement one from Japan. I’m hoping it’s not in the gearbox, though there is a similar problem whereby when in neutral there is a slight grinding noise in gearbox (though I think I can live with). This happened when I didn’t realize the alternator was to be serviced, battery got flat and I push started it in second gear, but have put it in whilst moving (was a bad move). Thanks for videos over the years