Hi Matt, do you have a drawing of how R3 relays should look. Garage took out the relays and may have put them in the wrong order as we are getting an engine cooling fan fault code.
I have a question. I have a 09 cooper S. I replaced the coolant temp sensor. The fan does not come on. When I unplug the sensor, the fan comes on full blast. I don’t think it’s the relays as the fan does come on with the temp sensor unplugged. Is it a bad temp sensor? (I went into diagnostics and it seems to show the correct coolant temperature readout) I have a feeling it’s the aux waterpump. Help!?
@@JP-nz2li yes, weird solution. There are different fusebox lids with different diagrams. Some of them have a fuse for the fan in FL11 some do not. Mine did not. I stuck in a 30 or 40 or 50amp fuse into F11 like the fusebox lid i found on google images, and the fan came on when it got hot, cooled it down and has been working ever since. My coolant temp sensor and fan are new. Try populating F11 get it up to temp and see what happens.
@@pauliuslabas7121 yes, weird solution. There are different fusebox lids with different diagrams. Some of them have a fuse for the fan in FL11 some do not. Mine did not. I stuck in a 30 or 40 or 50amp fuse into FL11 like the fusebox lid i found on google images, and the fan came on when it got hot, cooled it down and has been working ever since. My coolant temp sensor and fan are new. Try populating FL11 get it up to temp and see what happens. I am pretty sure somebody put the wrong fuse box lid on mine with the wrong diagram for my car. That's the only explanation I have. My temperature sensor auxiliary pump and fan are brand new. It was still not working , the only way I was able to get the fan to turn on was to unplug the temperature sensor. It will turn on and stay running constantly. Anyways, after populating FL11, even though my fuse box diagram, shows it to be a blank, the fan now comes on when my mini gets hot. It refused to do that before and it got really hot. My fuse box definitely has pins in FL 11. It's not a blank.
Which relay test kit do you use? Does it have both types of that relay setup of is it a case of like it's been said here and temporary modifying the tester with cables or buy the bigger set?
Hi there, I have two lisle kits, 56810 and 60610, I think the two kits have the same relays in total as the one larger kit has. One kit has a four pin relay and the other has a five pin relay instead. The pins in both kits are labeled the same as each other and in all the same places. The only difference being that the four pin is missing the 87a contact. I have chosen to write on the relay tester to remind me that some relays have 30 and 86 (the wrong way round) I have used the jumper wire idea when temporarily fitting the wrong type of relay in a car until I could get the correct one. Thanks for watching and your comment
Yes, I think that's all it is, until recently I didn't know about some relays have pins in the wrong places. This could overload the thin control wires on the car if the wrong relay was fitted. Cheers Matt
Could this be the reason my AC only blows cold air when driving, and after 20minutes stops blowing cold air? Then when i restart the car it blows cold again
@@rfdezjit was the resistor in the fan, like the guy in the video’s. I had a spare fan from a parts car and it worked on low speed and the ac works! I confirmed by jumping the wires to power the fan (87 and 30) as shown in the video and on the side of the relay. You need a fairly fat wire as it takes a lot of current! The full speed worked when jumped fan relay 2, but not when I jumped relay 1.
Top info as usual Matt....fair play to ya.........just wondering on your opinion on the master kit 69300 do ya think it would be suitable for european vehicles, thanks again
It's a great kit, I just got the two small relay test kits, they have the same relay testers. It's just the square relay with either 4 or 5 pins are both labeled for the relays that has the load and control making a cross, rather than the other type. It's only though, it's just two pins that are wrongly labeled for that relay. It's a really good kit, it's helped me out a lot. I should have got the master kit for all of the extra bits in the kit, although I already have relay puller plyers and jumper wires. Thanks for watching
Thanks Matt! Having a very similar issue with my 2010 Clubman. The fan isn't coming on when it should, so I ordered a test kit and will go through the steps you described; super helpful, especially the explanation of the unusual load orientation (corners) on the relay. BTW, where did you get your replacement fan? Thanks again for a great video....
what is the world coming to when designers move the standard pins on an automotive relay??! I've seen relays with 2 x 87 terminals (the second one being where 87A would be, but seriously, this is a disaster!
Thanks for the video matt always learning something from your channel , could you maybe modify that relay tester you use to suit other cars like the mini with some cable and male/female connections ? could come in handy thanks again and merry christmas ! .
I got both relays replaced and it didn’t work. I connected the fan to the battery (with 2 cables) and both speeds worked on the fan. I’m hoping it’s just the relay or cables. Anything but the thermostat. Even the fan replacement would be easier
another question....so as well as the pins changing position on type b relay, they reverse the polarity as well as in your diagram you show the first relay switched live as red pin 86 and going out on 85. On type b you show 85 as red live going out on pin 86? Am i correct?
The two relays on the car were both opposite wiring to each other even though the relays were the same so I'm thinking it may not matter in this case on the mini cooper also it had one load power on pin 30 coming out of 87 when energized and the other relay next to it had the load power in on pin 87 and coming out of 30 when energized. This was getting too much to say on the video so I kept it to the load pins and control pins
well I've only recently came across this upload 5.5.2023 "when" & I've already replaced my fan 2yrs ago "say" due to the resistor on the radiator, again the cables going to the resistor unit had corroded & x1 had snapped hence no fan at all prior to the full replacement.. anyway later I'd a top end rebuild due to x3 valves not seating correctly... yep the previous owner had done one & buggered the engine, sold it on & the dealer I bought it from well yeh a shoddy one as well... anyway, seeing this I've checked my relays under the bonnet fuse box & both are identified as "shown here" incorrect, I have been getting the high speed fan action, only when on a hot day & stop start traffic jam style traffic.. nothing else. I've literally just replaced both relays to what's identified as the correct type/terminal positions & rating... I'll add a comment further it its made any change tomorrow as I'm back at work after this nice long weekend (the weekend of bonny king Charley with Queenie lye-low lill)
@@mechanicmatt871 hey thanks, my fan wouldn’t run, I jumped out both of the relay positions you show, and nothing but direct power to my fan at the fan connector works, my question is why my 2010 mini only had one relay in the low speed pos. And not two, could someone have taken the relay or was it never available for that one to work, recent minor front end crash is the reason for my repair, it only damaged the radiator and not the fan / fan area, could the inline resistor you speak of be the problem?
Yes I done jumper test with battery and they is nothing low speed Orr high speed and I’m thinking it obvs relay or fan clutch I’ve tried manually freeing fan clutch with newspaper and tamping back of motor And can hear relay switches engaging and when un plugged fan and done jumper test that confirmed problem to be relay Orr faulty fan Either way the front end has to come off now hey , Mini Cooper s I’m starting to hate these now lol
@@lawrencegoldsworthy9474 Check these two videos it would help you. You can fix the stage 1 fan easy and cheap. Please see the link, so you can see how I installed the capacitor. ruclips.net/video/BYfyNlr-WqY/видео.html Also in my video is the link in the comment area from Joao who explained the EASY complete installation process. I did it two weeks ago and is working perfect !
Very helpful from across the pond my friend our 08 JCW lives again!
Thanks for watching
Thanks for the heads up mate ... I hope the move goes well 🙌👍
Thanks Igor 👍
Hi Matt, do you have a drawing of how R3 relays should look. Garage took out the relays and may have put them in the wrong order as we are getting an engine cooling fan fault code.
I have a question. I have a 09 cooper S. I replaced the coolant temp sensor. The fan does not come on. When I unplug the sensor, the fan comes on full blast.
I don’t think it’s the relays as the fan does come on with the temp sensor unplugged.
Is it a bad temp sensor? (I went into diagnostics and it seems to show the correct coolant temperature readout)
I have a feeling it’s the aux waterpump. Help!?
Any luck with it? Having a very similar issue, love to know if you’ve got it solved.
Did you sort out? I have same problem,
@@JP-nz2li yes, weird solution. There are different fusebox lids with different diagrams. Some of them have a fuse for the fan in FL11 some do not.
Mine did not. I stuck in a 30 or 40 or 50amp fuse into F11 like the fusebox lid i found on google images, and the fan came on when it got hot, cooled it down and has been working ever since.
My coolant temp sensor and fan are new.
Try populating F11 get it up to temp and see what happens.
@@pauliuslabas7121 yes, weird solution. There are different fusebox lids with different diagrams. Some of them have a fuse for the fan in FL11 some do not.
Mine did not. I stuck in a 30 or 40 or 50amp fuse into FL11 like the fusebox lid i found on google images, and the fan came on when it got hot, cooled it down and has been working ever since.
My coolant temp sensor and fan are new.
Try populating FL11 get it up to temp and see what happens.
I am pretty sure somebody put the wrong fuse box lid on mine with the wrong diagram for my car. That's the only explanation I have. My temperature sensor auxiliary pump and fan are brand new.
It was still not working , the only way I was able to get the fan to turn on was to unplug the temperature sensor. It will turn on and stay running constantly.
Anyways, after populating FL11, even though my fuse box diagram, shows it to be a blank, the fan now comes on when my mini gets hot. It refused to do that before and it got really hot.
My fuse box definitely has pins in FL 11. It's not a blank.
@ thanks i will try, i unplugged temp sensor and fan works high speed all time, will check fuses
Hi Matt, where about are you based? Im in Ayrshire and have a similar issues with my mini cooper S 2008
Hi, I moved to Cornwall last year
Always an exception! Good luck with the “flitting” 😀 Enjoy the holidays best you can under the circumstances. Cheers Pal 👍
Thanks Ian, it's surprising how much stuff I have accumulated that I won't be taking with me. It almost puts you off flitting. Cheers mate
Good info Matt, Merry Christmas, Sandy
Thanks Sandy, merry Christmas 🌲⛄
Have a mini that has a fan that cuts on, and works but won’t cut off when the car turned off; what would that be?
Same here already changed the coolant sensor but still the same, but your could be the sensor
I have a 2013 base mini, I can’t figure out where my ac clutch relay is.
Which relay test kit do you use? Does it have both types of that relay setup of is it a case of like it's been said here and temporary modifying the tester with cables or buy the bigger set?
Hi there, I have two lisle kits, 56810 and 60610, I think the two kits have the same relays in total as the one larger kit has.
One kit has a four pin relay and the other has a five pin relay instead. The pins in both kits are labeled the same as each other and in all the same places. The only difference being that the four pin is missing the 87a contact.
I have chosen to write on the relay tester to remind me that some relays have 30 and 86 (the wrong way round)
I have used the jumper wire idea when temporarily fitting the wrong type of relay in a car until I could get the correct one.
Thanks for watching and your comment
@@mechanicmatt871 your welcome. So we can assume the the people who make your test kits don't currently make a test relay with the wrong configuration
Yes, I think that's all it is, until recently I didn't know about some relays have pins in the wrong places. This could overload the thin control wires on the car if the wrong relay was fitted. Cheers Matt
Could this be the reason my AC only blows cold air when driving, and after 20minutes stops blowing cold air? Then when i restart the car it blows cold again
Was it the reason? Did you fix it? I’m hoping that is my problem 🤔
@@Andysyoutubemessno, never knew what it was. Sold the car a while ago. Good luck!
@@AndysyoutubemessI have the same problem, did you find the cause of the problem?
@@rfdezjit was the resistor in the fan, like the guy in the video’s.
I had a spare fan from a parts car and it worked on low speed and the ac works!
I confirmed by jumping the wires to power the fan (87 and 30) as shown in the video and on the side of the relay. You need a fairly fat wire as it takes a lot of current! The full speed worked when jumped fan relay 2, but not when I jumped relay 1.
@@Andysyoutubemess thank you!
Top info as usual Matt....fair play to ya.........just wondering on your opinion on the master kit 69300 do ya think it would be suitable for european vehicles, thanks again
It's a great kit, I just got the two small relay test kits, they have the same relay testers.
It's just the square relay with either 4 or 5 pins are both labeled for the relays that has the load and control making a cross, rather than the other type. It's only though, it's just two pins that are wrongly labeled for that relay. It's a really good kit, it's helped me out a lot.
I should have got the master kit for all of the extra bits in the kit, although I already have relay puller plyers and jumper wires.
Thanks for watching
Thanks Matt, looks like a good bit of kit
Thanks Matt! Having a very similar issue with my 2010 Clubman. The fan isn't coming on when it should, so I ordered a test kit and will go through the steps you described; super helpful, especially the explanation of the unusual load orientation (corners) on the relay. BTW, where did you get your replacement fan? Thanks again for a great video....
Did work
Happy Christmas Matt
Happy Christmas Ian, thanks for watching
what is the world coming to when designers move the standard pins on an automotive relay??! I've seen relays with 2 x 87 terminals (the second one being where 87A would be, but seriously, this is a disaster!
Thanks for the video matt always learning something from your channel , could you maybe modify that relay tester you use to suit other cars like the mini with some cable and male/female connections ? could come in handy thanks again and merry christmas ! .
Thanks John, great idea, I'm going to use a permanent marker to label the alternative relay configuration's pin locations.
Merry Christmas ⛄
I got both relays replaced and it didn’t work. I connected the fan to the battery (with 2 cables) and both speeds worked on the fan. I’m hoping it’s just the relay or cables. Anything but the thermostat. Even the fan replacement would be easier
another question....so as well as the pins changing position on type b relay, they reverse the polarity as well as in your diagram you show the first relay switched live as red pin 86 and going out on 85. On type b you show 85 as red live going out on pin 86? Am i correct?
The two relays on the car were both opposite wiring to each other even though the relays were the same so I'm thinking it may not matter in this case on the mini cooper also it had one load power on pin 30 coming out of 87 when energized and the other relay next to it had the load power in on pin 87 and coming out of 30 when energized. This was getting too much to say on the video so I kept it to the load pins and control pins
Thanks again pal, merry Xmas
Thanks mate, merry Christmas ☃️
well I've only recently came across this upload 5.5.2023 "when" & I've already replaced my fan 2yrs ago "say" due to the resistor on the radiator, again the cables going to the resistor unit had corroded & x1 had snapped hence no fan at all prior to the full replacement.. anyway later I'd a top end rebuild due to x3 valves not seating correctly... yep the previous owner had done one & buggered the engine, sold it on & the dealer I bought it from well yeh a shoddy one as well...
anyway, seeing this I've checked my relays under the bonnet fuse box & both are identified as "shown here" incorrect, I have been getting the high speed fan action, only when on a hot day & stop start traffic jam style traffic.. nothing else. I've literally just replaced both relays to what's identified as the correct type/terminal positions & rating... I'll add a comment further it its made any change tomorrow as I'm back at work after this nice long weekend (the weekend of bonny king Charley with Queenie lye-low lill)
Apreciate your time sharing your experiences and knowledge Matt
Merry xmas
Rob
Mobileman
Thanks Rob merry Christmas to you and yours
Anyone still active on this page ??? got a question about the mini relays, ?
What's your question?
@@mechanicmatt871 hey thanks, my fan wouldn’t run, I jumped out both of the relay positions you show, and nothing but direct power to my fan at the fan connector works, my question is why my 2010 mini only had one relay in the low speed pos. And not two, could someone have taken the relay or was it never available for that one to work, recent minor front end crash is the reason for my repair, it only damaged the radiator and not the fan / fan area, could the inline resistor you speak of be the problem?
It could be, or the fan itself, cheers Matt
Thanks for the timely reply, will be a few days before I return to work on it, cheers as well, D...
@@mechanicmatt871
Thanks good info
Thanks for watching Naz
I’ve got no low speed Orr high speed fan power after using jumper cable test any help please ?
Unplug the fan and use a test light then if you jump the relay see if you are now getting power to the fan. It may be a faulty fan
Yes I done jumper test with battery and they is nothing low speed Orr high speed and I’m thinking it obvs relay or fan clutch
I’ve tried manually freeing fan clutch with newspaper and tamping back of motor
And can hear relay switches engaging and when un plugged fan and done jumper test that confirmed problem to be relay Orr faulty fan
Either way the front end has to come off now hey , Mini Cooper s
I’m starting to hate these now lol
If you powered the fan directly and nothing happened it does sound like the fan itself is kaput.
@@lawrencegoldsworthy9474 Check these two videos it would help you.
You can fix the stage 1 fan easy and cheap.
Please see the link, so you can see how I installed the capacitor. ruclips.net/video/BYfyNlr-WqY/видео.html
Also in my video is the link in the comment area from Joao who explained the EASY complete installation process.
I did it two weeks ago and is working perfect !
yet another reason i stay away from european vehicles lol.. thanks for sharing matt. happy holidays.
Fuck it mines is getting a switch on the dash ...😂