I tell you this has been my life for over 60 years 60 years with electricity airplanes cars trucks when I walk out to their car and and just a few minutes to say it is a blown fuse now white I will put a new fuse in and see what happens
electricity in autos is way different than buildings though. i have no issue touching the positive terminal on a battery. touching positive in a home/business .......hell no
Any time I need to find a blown fuze or relay, I just take the fuse block off the car and use my bench top power supply to put 80 amps through it. Now they are all blown and I can't be wrong.
You made it simple for guys like me....having very less knowledge about these things. Thanks a lot for the help. Life seems easier with guys like you around. 😊
Nice tip. I've been working on the family cars for nearly 60 years, and never thought of, or heard about this technique. I've had a test light in the drawer for decades. A nice simple time saver, with a nice simple explanation. Thanks....I'm subscribing 🙂
I flunked shop class in HS in the 70s; now I'm taking Shop Class 101 on You Tube. I'm starting with the fuse checks because my life has not been very bright overall. :)
Thank you, always great to brush up on troubleshooting tips. I always keep one of these testers in my car's tool kit. Fuses always seem to blow at the most inconvient times, it's good to know how to quickly find and fix the bad fuse.
They also make those test lights that will glow green if the probe is on positive. But you can clip the alligator clip to a nail, or small screwdriver, and test wire to see which wire is positive or negative. The test light will glow red if the nail side is positive and the probe side is grounded. Comes in handy for testing polarity on ganged socket plugs in wiring harnesses. Sometimes you can't figure out whick wire is grouded but you know where the positive (power lead) is and you just alligator clip to the positive and probe to find ground.
Want to say thanks for the video, it's the one video that I could understand. You made the video to the point and simple. The way all videos should be.😊
I worked on cars for 40 years, 30 for a fleet, and nobody showed me this trick until now, thanks OP. Also I wanna point out one thing and that is, always use a fuse puller tool if you can! Sure needle nose pliers work, sometimes, for some fuses, if you even have space for the jaws to move, which half the time you don't! Plus it is way too easy to mangle a fuse using the needle nose, you might even short something out -
Thankyou sir, driving last night and put the dipped headlights on, all lights went off! Pulled over, switched off, switched on. No rear lights, dash lights, horn. Brake lights work though! Picked the tool up today, dark now but will test all tomorrow. God bless ,❤️👊
This is AMAZING!!! Tbh, you should put some keywords into your content that are for women, auto help for women, etc. Because as a gal, that has never done anything with cars (hush men viewers, I know, I know 😂), you made this so simple!! Now off to see if you have other videos about the other stuff happening lol. 2013 Acura TL - DRL error came on few weeks ago, then suddenly was gone so I dismissed it. Week later - battery completely dead, but when we popped the hood… the accessories came on. (🤦🏼♀️). Now another week or two, and suddenly my low beams don’t work, but high do. Seems to me like it has to be something electrical rather than fuse just based on all that has happened, but just started watching videos 10m ago to see if I can find answers/things to try. SMH - I need a man!!!
Excellent video, great technique ... Q. why do fuses naturally blow with age? (ie: without overcurrent) A. fuses are designed to blow by melting when too hot with overcurrent, hence under normal usage they run warm, so over time the fuse-metal crystalline structure suffers atomic migration which causes physical internal flaws to develop and finally an ultimate failure to conduct electrons (current).
@@dontuno Sure, my explanation covers the fuses that prematurely blow, it's not about all fuses ever made, most stay within their design parameters. It's much the same with incandescent light bulbs, most eventually blow in time but some never do ~ best example is a light bulb somewhere in the US which still works today and has been permanently 'on' for over 100 years.
I have heard these test lights called by another name: "scope on a rope". I had a battery blow up on me. I got covered in acid. Jumped in the shower with my clothes on. Quickly rinsed the acid off my face, hair and exposed skin. Gradually took off my clothes and put them in the washing machine. Then I washed all over with soap. Luckily no damage to my eyes because I flooded them with water so quickly. Now I wear safety glasses anytime I am around battles. My friend is a mechanic. He has had two of them blow up on him.
Thanks for your video. I was checking them Wrong . Only in one side!!😮 Now I will check both sides . Make more videos I will watch them. And I suscribe. 😊
Thanks for the tip, I’m having the same problem on my 2011 Camry with the headlights and fog lights the fuse lights only lights up on one port thanks a lot 👍🏽💪🏽💪🏽
I subscribed! Man, no one ever explained about the one-side out fuse. If one side of the fuse is out that means the fuse is bad. That was a question I had and no one else mentioned. See, its little teaching tips like that make all the difference is us DIY guys to increase in knowledge and understanding. Furthermore, it saves us time and money. Another factor was you explained that some fuses are spares and sometimes the key must be turned on to make some fuses illuminate when tested. My question is this. On a 2015 Regal, 2.4L 4 cyl 8 fuses with not light up when I test them. I am searching for the blower motor fuse. I see no such fuse on the fuse or relay schematic located on the underside of the plastic fuse box cover. The blower motor does not come on. How can I locate the appropriate fuse or relay? Could you illustrate how to remove the blower motor on the above-mentioned car and the blower resistor? My 2004 Grand Cherokee, straight 6, 4 cyl blower motor has gone out too. Thanks for you help.
Well known but excellent test procedure.. & worth repeating! However, please fix the start drag volume! I grew up on drag racing, but DON'tT wish to wake everyone in the house when watching a video early in the day!!
For me it's easier to just use a tester and measure the continuity between the two test points, that way you don't have to worry about it getting power. Great video anyway
Tomas, that way works for many, the issues I have with it are: it's a fight for space and hand room when the box is way up under the dash and though few if any fuses do, some circuits operate on 5v and sending the 9V from the continuity tester through that circuit may release the smoke genie or damage componemts. I hope your way continues to work well for you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Just got one of these today. Omg so good. What's it mean when a fuse isn't blown but it doesnt light? How can i check the fuse port in the fuse box? And when you say indicates a fise os blown Does that mean you oull it out and it physically os blown inside? Or can it look like it's fine?
This is a dumb question, but is the cord to the battery on the tester long enough so that you can test the fuses inside the car under the dashboard; or do those inside-the-car fuses require a different type of testing device?
Hi there , I changed my fuse on my Range Rover Sport is responsible for the central locking system and aftter I try to lock-unlock doors it blows again , what can be ? what should I check ? It worked just fine for long time and it just happened out of the blue in one day ..... Can I get some advice please ? thank you . Update: I just dicovered that the left back door its blocked , it doesn't open like all the other doors , it blows the fuse everytime I try to open or close the doors . The problem is that I can not open the back door to take off the door card (panel ) to look inside the door to look for the problem ...it could be the acuator or else .... ?
Wow, 68 here and never knew that. I checked my older, next size bigger fuses and they also have access to check without pulling. Not sure but aren't headlights on a thermal breaker and after turning on headlights you're checking running lights? Excellent video, Thanks.
COULD YOU ALSO USE A CONTINUITY SETTING ON THE MULTIMETER..AND TOUGH THE BLACK/WHITE LEADS OF THE MULTIMETER TO THE TOP C ONTACTS OF THE FUSE TO MAKE SURE THERE IS CONTINUITY ?
You "could" but, I dont like the idea of putting 9V from the continuity tester back into the ecm or other circuits that may have 5v references. Also, a short to power may show a good fuse where a bad fuse exists.
Sir, I have a Tucson 2009 my fuse box has one fuse which connects the right front and rear light, when I replace it it burns out as soon as it clicks, why is that ?
So to test headlight fuse turn headlights on, when headlights are shining, then test fuse. If both sides of the headlight fuse have power, then the headlights are indeed on. 😉
I use a multimeter. Set it for dc volts....probe across the little metal pips on the fuse. If you get little to no volts, the fuse is good, if you get the battery voltage (11-13 volts) the fuse is bad. Do this with the fuse in-circuit.
You will also get zero v if the circuit is off, like the headlights shown here☺ edit sorry you did mention that, but I was confused so ill leave my comment here too.
That method works well. What I don't like about it is when I'm in an under dash fuse box and I keep needing to turn my head to look at fuse and then dvom, then fuse then dvom. Etc...... so this way works for me. I hope your way continues to work well for you!
A voltmeter would be better to have than a test light because of its versatility for making other measurements. With a voltmeter, set it to measure DC volts. Place the probes on the test points on the fuse. Polarity doesn't matter. If you measure zero volts, the fuse is good. If you measure 12 volts, the fuse is blown.
While that works for some, it is rather cumbersome while under the dash upside down, looking at fuses, then turn head to look at dvom. To each their own, I hope your way continues to work well for you.
@@BaldwinsBowtieGarage Good point. 👍 Still should have a DVM because if the new fuse blows, then you'll need to measure resistance to ground on either side of that blown fuse.
I also have heard of many automotive shops in the northern US states actually snipping fuse output legs on their customers vehicles and turning it back over to them, such a pity...😢 as for myself i am from louisiana, down here folks are raised on a totally different set of standards. Dont really have to worry about that type of thing. Every auto mechanic for a 100 mile radius are small mom and pop business most all of which practice honest morals. If this inflation would ever go on and drift its way up out of here i feel like everything might actually be alright on this end. Yall have a nice evening 😌
@@alive-awake if you snip the output leg of the fuse then when you test on the nipples, you get power on both sides of the fuse but the circuit will not work. You are breaking the circuit on the other side of the test point. The customer has a circuit that doesn't work and someone testing the way you are, picks up no fault. You have to remove the fuse to see the issue.
Of course... since you have a "map", it's completely little-girl silly to test any fuses for stuff that still works. Only test the fuses that power stuff that doesn't work.
May I ask, my blower motor isnt blowing air of any kind on any setting. A. Can i use this pen and method on Relays? Or only fuses? B. Can it be used on blower motor resistors as well? (Separate from the issue, but what about a VVT exhaust solenoid to see if its faulty? Or is this style of pen 100% strictly for fuses only?) Thanks alot
There’s no need to check both sides as one side is supply other side is load just check load sides only, same side on every fuse if no power then check supply side,easy faster.
I appreciate your time saving idea, but haven't found the supply side to be the same side of each fuse in all fuse boxes. Regardless, I hope it keeps working for you.
well this video was interesting. it just happened to me yesterday, my dad's car left light, was not working, and i noticed that the fuse for that light was melted. (yes not blown, completly melted. it got obliterated) to the point where i can't even see the amps on the fuse. i can see a 5, and the other number i can't see fully. althought i supose it was a 7.5 since i can see just the head of the 7. according to VW the fuse there should be a 10 amp, and i just happen to have a spare 10 amp on there so i used it and the light came back on. i was worried of putting a 10 amp on there because the previous looked like a 7.5 so i thought i'd have to buy another 7.5 but it turned out not needed, as the recomended by volks, is a 10. i wonder why the fuse melted tho.
This is one of those instructional vids that should be in the RUclips Hall of Fame. Excellent!
Folks that hate electrical work are probably folks that don't understand it. Thanks for helping us understand it a bit better. 👍
Big facts bro
Yeah no, not really.
I tell you this has been my life for over 60 years 60 years with electricity airplanes cars trucks when I walk out to their car and and just a few minutes to say it is a blown fuse now white I will put a new fuse in and see what happens
electricity in autos is way different than buildings though. i have no issue touching the positive terminal on a battery. touching positive in a home/business .......hell no
Definitely falls under not understanding
Any time I need to find a blown fuze or relay, I just take the fuse block off the car and use my bench top power supply to put 80 amps through it. Now they are all blown and I can't be wrong.
👌
😏
😂😂😂😂
🤣
This is one of the funniest comments I’ve seen in a while
I've been working on my own vehicles for 14 years and i just found this out, thank you!!!
You made it simple for guys like me....having very less knowledge about these things. Thanks a lot for the help. Life seems easier with guys like you around. 😊
Thank you!
You’re never too old to learn something new says this 68 year old :) good video!
Thank you
Nice tip. I've been working on the family cars for nearly 60 years, and never thought of, or heard about this technique. I've had a test light in the drawer for decades. A nice simple time saver, with a nice simple explanation. Thanks....I'm subscribing 🙂
Thank you!
Been working on cars for 60 years and you dont know how to check fuses? 😳
😂
60 years and you are today days old to learn how to test a fuse....😅
where did you get 3.7 seconds from.
I flunked shop class in HS in the 70s; now I'm taking Shop Class 101 on You Tube. I'm starting with the fuse checks because my life has not been very bright overall. :)
Thank you, always great to brush up on troubleshooting tips. I always keep one of these testers in my car's tool kit. Fuses always seem to blow at the most inconvient times, it's good to know how to quickly find and fix the bad fuse.
EXCELLENT info. I recently had a blown fuse for my heater blower, and had no idea how to test it. Thank you so much!
Glad it helped
They also make those test lights that will glow green if the probe is on positive. But you can clip the alligator clip to a nail, or small screwdriver, and test wire to see which wire is positive or negative. The test light will glow red if the nail side is positive and the probe side is grounded. Comes in handy for testing polarity on ganged socket plugs in wiring harnesses. Sometimes you can't figure out whick wire is grouded but you know where the positive (power lead) is and you just alligator clip to the positive and probe to find ground.
Sorry I just bought this tester that turns green and red how do I use it ?
Want to say thanks for the video, it's the one video that I could understand.
You made the video to the point and simple. The way all videos should be.😊
Thanks!!!
I worked on cars for 40 years, 30 for a fleet, and nobody showed me this trick until now, thanks OP. Also I wanna point out one thing and that is, always use a fuse puller tool if you can! Sure needle nose pliers work, sometimes, for some fuses, if you even have space for the jaws to move, which half the time you don't! Plus it is way too easy to mangle a fuse using the needle nose, you might even short something out -
Glad to help. Take care!
Thankyou sir, driving last night and put the dipped headlights on, all lights went off! Pulled over, switched off, switched on. No rear lights, dash lights, horn. Brake lights work though! Picked the tool up today, dark now but will test all tomorrow. God bless ,❤️👊
Funny it’s mainly only oldies who value lifelong learning. I’m 65 going on 95, now fully subscribed, thank you, brilliantly done.
Not true, I think you just live on a high horse, and can't see past it.
What a silly thing to say
Ugh learning is a part of life for everyone dummy
Old people are gatekeepers.
I'm 64 years old and I just learned this.
Just proves you're never too old to learn! Thanks for watching. Let us know if there's any other instructional videos you'd like to see!
@@BaldwinsBowtieGarage absolutely!!
Pushing 70 here and never knew about the access points! Call me 'unobservant'! Thanks for the info.
Glad to help!
I’m 69 yrs old and this is new to me.
Sir, nice of you posting this useful video.
I learnt how to check healthiness of fuses ,👍.
Expecting more videos on cars 😊
Superb - being a dummy, and my fuse box not being near the battery, i now need to work out how to do this where my fuse box is!
Thanks for your excellent and patient example for checking fuses and test light.
Thanks for this, on visual inspection the fuse looked okay but doing this it showed it had blown. Thanks again.
This is AMAZING!!! Tbh, you should put some keywords into your content that are for women, auto help for women, etc. Because as a gal, that has never done anything with cars (hush men viewers, I know, I know 😂), you made this so simple!! Now off to see if you have other videos about the other stuff happening lol.
2013 Acura TL - DRL error came on few weeks ago, then suddenly was gone so I dismissed it. Week later - battery completely dead, but when we popped the hood… the accessories came on. (🤦🏼♀️). Now another week or two, and suddenly my low beams don’t work, but high do. Seems to me like it has to be something electrical rather than fuse just based on all that has happened, but just started watching videos 10m ago to see if I can find answers/things to try. SMH - I need a man!!!
Thanks that I watched the video, i solved a huge problem with my van. Keep doing what you are doing.
Superb video, great visual demonstration and explanation.
Thank you. I appreciate the kind words.
Agreed
Thanks for sharing this tip. It worked for me in just a few seconds. Sure beat busting the wrong fuse trying to get it out to check it.
Happy it helped!
simple trick that I did not know but will for sure use... thankyou for posting.
Thanks for sharing this. I’m working on getting my aging vehicle to last my kids and I another year or two 💙
You got this!
That was very interesting! Didn't know this. Best wishes from Germany.
Thank you!
Great never knew anything about fuses until now!
Sure glad it helped. If there's anything else you'd like to see, just drop a comment. Thanks!
That was so helpful…thank you!
Thanks for watching.
O yeah....a older man like 30 years ago showed me this.good to know.thought there was a newer way. but great video,!!!
Thank You, I just learn something today .
Thank you. This is a very good refresher video.
Thanks for watching! Let us know if there are other things you'd like us to cover.
@@BaldwinsBowtieGarage Yes, the automotive electrical system would be a great refresher video.
Excellent video, great technique ... Q. why do fuses naturally blow with age? (ie: without overcurrent) A. fuses are designed to blow by melting when too hot with overcurrent, hence under normal usage they run warm, so over time the fuse-metal crystalline structure suffers atomic migration which causes physical internal flaws to develop and finally an ultimate failure to conduct electrons (current).
Is that really the case? I see cars that are many, many years old but their fuses are still intact.
@@dontuno Sure, my explanation covers the fuses that prematurely blow, it's not about all fuses ever made, most stay within their design parameters. It's much the same with incandescent light bulbs, most eventually blow in time but some never do ~ best example is a light bulb somewhere in the US which still works today and has been permanently 'on' for over 100 years.
@@dontuno well i mean if you never get blown and you have the ability to blow yourself...
House fuses CAN AND WILL DETERIORATE. I HAVE VERY OLD FUSES FROM 60S SND THEY ARE CORRODED AT LEAST THE TIME DELAY ONES.
This is amazing. I never before read a discussion about fuses proceed down to the actual atoms involved in the electrics...
Thankyou Very Much for the tutorial.....I need to troubleshoot my 89 Corvette and need one of these testers.... :)
You're welcome! Good luck with the vette!
Simple and useful. Simply useful.
Glad you liked it!
Nice video, well explained. I've been using the same method too!👍
Cool, thanks!
Excellent video, thank you!
Thanks for watching.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge ,💐
Thanks for watching!
very helpful. Succinct, clear instruction.
Great Explanation. Thank you for the tip...
I have heard these test lights called by another name: "scope on a rope". I had a battery blow up on me. I got covered in acid. Jumped in the shower with my clothes on. Quickly rinsed the acid off my face, hair and exposed skin. Gradually took off my clothes and put them in the washing machine. Then I washed all over with soap. Luckily no damage to my eyes because I flooded them with water so quickly. Now I wear safety glasses anytime I am around battles. My friend is a mechanic. He has had two of them blow up on him.
as an old dude the test light can be used in many ways for circuit testing as well but i think already know that
Thanks a lot, that was very helpful!
Great video!! Thanks for sharing 😊
i’m trying to figure out if my radio’s fuse is blown i will check it tommorow thanks for the informative video!
Wonderful job! You nailed it.
Thanks
Brilliant video and so useful thank you 😁
Thanks for your video.
I was checking them Wrong .
Only in one side!!😮
Now I will check both sides .
Make more videos I will watch them. And I suscribe.
😊
that's a really great video Thank you!
You are welcome!
Excellent!!! Thanks and GOD bless you.
Thanks for the tip, I’m having the same problem on my 2011 Camry with the headlights and fog lights the fuse lights only lights up on one port thanks a lot 👍🏽💪🏽💪🏽
I subscribed! Man, no one ever explained about the one-side out fuse. If one side of the fuse is out that means the fuse is bad. That was a question I had and no one else mentioned. See, its little teaching tips like that make all the difference is us DIY guys to increase in knowledge and understanding. Furthermore, it saves us time and money. Another factor was you explained that some fuses are spares and sometimes the key must be turned on to make some fuses illuminate when tested. My question is this. On a 2015 Regal, 2.4L 4 cyl 8 fuses with not light up when I test them. I am searching for the blower motor fuse. I see no such fuse on the fuse or relay schematic located on the underside of the plastic fuse box cover. The blower motor does not come on. How can I locate the appropriate fuse or relay? Could you illustrate how to remove the blower motor on the above-mentioned car and the blower resistor? My 2004 Grand Cherokee, straight 6, 4 cyl blower motor has gone out too. Thanks for you help.
Why wasn't this video 3.7 seconds long?
Well known but excellent test procedure.. & worth repeating!
However, please fix the start drag volume! I grew up on drag racing, but DON'tT wish to wake everyone in the house when watching a video early in the day!!
Noted, thank you.
The larger fuses with no access to check on top, I'm guessing you have to pull them out to check. Thanks
Well, your supposed to be able to took through the top. If I can't tell easily, I set the ohmmeter up and yest them across the bottom side.
Thanks for the info...
Thanks sir..very good explanation and easy way to taste fuse..Watching from France..
You are quite welcome. Happy to help. Let us know what else you'd like to see!
Thanks a lot I’m going to try this
THAT kind of fuse can read good, but go bad when under a load !
For me it's easier to just use a tester and measure the continuity between the two test points, that way you don't have to worry about it getting power. Great video anyway
Tomas, that way works for many, the issues I have with it are: it's a fight for space and hand room when the box is way up under the dash and though few if any fuses do, some circuits operate on 5v and sending the 9V from the continuity tester through that circuit may release the smoke genie or damage componemts. I hope your way continues to work well for you. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@BaldwinsBowtieGarage I never thought of that, thanks for the heads up!
Hi my hazard lights of my car keep staying on do I have to remove to the fuse box to temporarily get my hazard lights off ? Or the relay switch?
ty but do you have to ground on the car battery only? if so, what if tester does not reach fuse in question.. ty haus..
Just got one of these today. Omg so good.
What's it mean when a fuse isn't blown but it doesnt light? How can i check the fuse port in the fuse box?
And when you say indicates a fise os blown
Does that mean you oull it out and it physically os blown inside? Or can it look like it's fine?
Can you get the same thing with a multimeter ?
That was interesting thank you.
Thanks
Thanks a lot.
Great video, TY
Can you make a video on how to get the fuse box cover off?
Thank you
This is a dumb question, but is the cord to the battery on the tester long enough so that you can test the fuses inside the car under the dashboard; or do those inside-the-car fuses require a different type of testing device?
You can use any UNPAINTED metal as the ground connection for your test light. Like a bolt under the dash. Good luck and have fun!
Great info, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
What about the big fuses? How to check them? They look different from the small fuse.
Hi there , I changed my fuse on my Range Rover Sport is responsible for the central locking system and aftter I try to lock-unlock doors it blows again , what can be ? what should I check ? It worked just fine for long time and it just happened out of the blue in one day ..... Can I get some advice please ? thank you .
Update: I just dicovered that the left back door its blocked , it doesn't open like all the other doors , it blows the fuse everytime I try to open or close the doors . The problem is that I can not open the back door to take off the door card (panel ) to look inside the door to look for the problem ...it could be the acuator or else .... ?
Well done
Subscribed 👍
Wow, 68 here and never knew that. I checked my older, next size bigger fuses and they also have access to check without pulling. Not sure but aren't headlights on a thermal breaker and after turning on headlights you're checking running lights? Excellent video, Thanks.
Thank you!
COULD YOU ALSO USE A CONTINUITY SETTING ON THE MULTIMETER..AND TOUGH THE BLACK/WHITE LEADS OF THE MULTIMETER TO THE TOP C ONTACTS OF THE FUSE TO MAKE SURE THERE IS CONTINUITY ?
You "could" but, I dont like the idea of putting 9V from the continuity tester back into the ecm or other circuits that may have 5v references. Also, a short to power may show a good fuse where a bad fuse exists.
Sir, I have a Tucson 2009 my fuse box has one fuse which connects the right front and rear light, when I replace it it burns out as soon as it clicks, why is that ?
Good info.Thanks.
So to test headlight fuse turn headlights on, when headlights are shining, then test fuse. If both sides of the headlight fuse have power, then the headlights are indeed on. 😉
Awesome video
Do a video on how to find a circuit that drains the battery over night. Thanks...
Thanks
Holy crap I wish I took shop class in school
Everybody should!
Useful! Thank you
Where can I find diagrams that label the fuses for any car
How to do it with a multimeter?
Nice video thank you
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Get a multi meter or a test light saves stress
I use a multimeter. Set it for dc volts....probe across the little metal pips on the fuse. If you get little to no volts, the fuse is good, if you get the battery voltage (11-13 volts) the fuse is bad. Do this with the fuse in-circuit.
You will also get zero v if the circuit is off, like the headlights shown here☺ edit sorry you did mention that, but I was confused so ill leave my comment here too.
That method works well. What I don't like about it is when I'm in an under dash fuse box and I keep needing to turn my head to look at fuse and then dvom, then fuse then dvom. Etc...... so this way works for me. I hope your way continues to work well for you!
I never new that the spare tyre had fuses.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching
thanks
A voltmeter would be better to have than a test light because of its versatility for making other measurements. With a voltmeter, set it to measure DC volts. Place the probes on the test points on the fuse. Polarity doesn't matter. If you measure zero volts, the fuse is good. If you measure 12 volts, the fuse is blown.
While that works for some, it is rather cumbersome while under the dash upside down, looking at fuses, then turn head to look at dvom. To each their own, I hope your way continues to work well for you.
@@BaldwinsBowtieGarage Good point. 👍 Still should have a DVM because if the new fuse blows, then you'll need to measure resistance to ground on either side of that blown fuse.
Niice. Does the car need to be on?
I also have heard of many automotive shops in the northern US states actually snipping fuse output legs on their customers vehicles and turning it back over to them, such a pity...😢 as for myself i am from louisiana, down here folks are raised on a totally different set of standards. Dont really have to worry about that type of thing. Every auto mechanic for a 100 mile radius are small mom and pop business most all of which practice honest morals. If this inflation would ever go on and drift its way up out of here i feel like everything might actually be alright on this end. Yall have a nice evening 😌
what does that mean "snipping fuse output legs on them and turning it back over to them"?
@@alive-awake if you snip the output leg of the fuse then when you test on the nipples, you get power on both sides of the fuse but the circuit will not work. You are breaking the circuit on the other side of the test point. The customer has a circuit that doesn't work and someone testing the way you are, picks up no fault. You have to remove the fuse to see the issue.
Of course... since you have a "map", it's completely little-girl silly to test any fuses for stuff that still works. Only test the fuses that power stuff that doesn't work.
May I ask, my blower motor isnt blowing air of any kind on any setting.
A. Can i use this pen and method on Relays? Or only fuses?
B. Can it be used on blower motor resistors as well? (Separate from the issue, but what about a VVT exhaust solenoid to see if its faulty? Or is this style of pen 100% strictly for fuses only?) Thanks alot
There’s no need to check both sides as one side is supply other side is load just check load sides only, same side on every fuse if no power then check supply side,easy faster.
I appreciate your time saving idea, but haven't found the supply side to be the same side of each fuse in all fuse boxes. Regardless, I hope it keeps working for you.
well this video was interesting.
it just happened to me yesterday, my dad's car left light, was not working, and i noticed that the fuse for that light was melted. (yes not blown, completly melted. it got obliterated) to the point where i can't even see the amps on the fuse. i can see a 5, and the other number i can't see fully. althought i supose it was a 7.5 since i can see just the head of the 7. according to VW the fuse there should be a 10 amp, and i just happen to have a spare 10 amp on there so i used it and the light came back on. i was worried of putting a 10 amp on there because the previous looked like a 7.5 so i thought i'd have to buy another 7.5 but it turned out not needed, as the recomended by volks, is a 10. i wonder why the fuse melted tho.