How to fix leaking Transmission Cooler Lines quick and cheap
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- Опубликовано: 6 июл 2019
- In this video I show you the steps involved to fix a leaking transmission cooler lines on your vehicle. These lines tend to start leaking over time at the clamps due to moisture and debris buildup. This is an easy permanent fix that will give you no issues. The previously repaired line (see in this video) has stood up for more then 2 years.
The vehicle I'm repairing is a 2010 Ford Fusion Sport 3.5
For this task you will need:
1. A small tubing cutter
2. A length of 3/8" diameter tubing (fuel safe)
3. 2 stainless steel clamps
4. A plastic rivet remover (orange tool)
5. 6mm socket and ratchet (or similar) - shroud bolts
6. 1/4" socket and ratchet (or similar) - clamp bolts
7. 120-180 Grit sandpaper
Once this is repaired you will need to check your transmission fluid level. If you need assistance please view my video.
If you have any questions feel free to leave it in the comments below. I'd be glad to help if possible.
If you like the video or found it informative, please give a thumbs up and consider leaving a comment.
If you like what you saw please hit the Subscribe button. I post new content frequently.
Thanks for watching! 
Хобби
Very helpful, you detailed what the parts are needed and now the way you show how simple to fix a transmission oil lines will save so much. Thank you and keep making more videos.
Let me know how the repairs go. Thanks for the kind words and for watching!
@@MoreBear It went smooth and very easy. I can finally have more than one quart of transmission fluid instead of less haha.
@@rickymccarthy2876 I know, right? And that stuff isn't cheap either. Glad it worked out.
I'm a retired mechanic and I almost forgot that this is exactly how we used to repair all rusted cooler lines. If you have a flaring tool, add a rosebud flare to the cut lines before installing the braided hose so it can't possibly slide off.
Excellent video
Thank you for the high praise! Thanks for watching and the comment!
My 01 300m just started leaking I was freaking out about how to fix it and here I am thankx for the video saved my life!!! SALUTE
No problem fellow lions fan. Glad I could help!
I would also recommend installing 2 clamps at each end for more secure fit. If this leaks u may need to use a compression fitting.
1 on each end was more than sufficient. Not enough pressure to warrant 2 clamps per end, but it wouldn't hurt. Thanks for watching and the comment!
This is a great solution for my 2018 Ram 1500. The lack of protection allowed the transmission cooler line to rub against the steering and a hole formed on the line. The replacement is almost $300, so this will hopefully fix it on the cheap.
Let me know how it goes. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
I’ve done this to two of my Ford fusions great video man
Thanks for the comment and for watching!
My fusion is doing the same. I might bush fix it too. Thanks for the video. Saves some time replacing the whole line.
Better then pulling a fender to replace a hose! Thanks for the question and for viewing!
Great video. I've noticed that plumbers use a C-cutter which is a compact, plastic device that fits completely around tubing, IF you can find the right size, and in about 2 quick turns the tubing is cut. I hope Harbor Freight or a big box store sells something similar that fits these metal lines.
Thanks for this video showing a less expensive, more reliable repair for a very common problem in every make of vehicle with a transmission cooler and the type of rust-promoting, retaining clamp that is typically used on metal transmission cooler lines. The tip about using double stainless steel worm-drive hose clamps on each end of the repair is invaluable.
Thanks for the kind words and for watching. I know the pipe cutters you are talking about. I have 1/2" cutters for copper plumbing pipe. I know the make 3/4" but I'm not sure if they make anything smaller. Would be nice if they did. Let me know if you find anything.
The More You Bear Will do. I checked Amazon and they don’t carry them.
@@MoreBear
Hey bro thanx alot for this video.
I ended up cutting damaging trans cooler line. Working on removing ac clutch, was going to put belt on , too lazy to lower the car, weight shifted and jack moved. Now got trans leaking from near the place where i had lifted car with jack.( Crossmember support) theres 2 trans line that run through it
Thinking if doing myself, because shop will order a a replacement line, and install it. 250$? Nah ita gotta be done cheap.
So heres the ideas i found on youtube
Scared of flaring because it seems too complicated, but it would mean that i have to use steel lines, and probably will have to bend them too?
I have to own know how skills.
I saw one guy who used compression fittings. Why are they illegal on brake lines, and will they work on trans line?
Finally, and im leaning on trans hose, and clamps. Which clamps will give best hold? Worm clamps, fuel line clamps, lr fuel injection clamps? Some people say its good to double clamp
I just did mine i used steel to rubber compression fittings. I ran it for 10 minutes with no leaks. You did the cheapest fix for your wife's car lol I do the cheapest way for me but not the little women. you still get a thumbs up for saving a good 1000 bucks. Nice job. Half a year ago i fixed a gas line this way so if 1 line goes the rest are sure to follow so I bought 10' of rubber line and a box of 5 rubber to steel compression fittings. Lifesavers, I saved myself 1000 bucks today. The little cutter I bought is horrible so one line I used a 1/2 hacksaw , the blade sticks out beyond the frame. It took time but it worked. The other end with the rubber hose I cut it with a Ryobi coping saw. The toughest part was sanding down the outside of the tube so I could slide the ring onto the steel line.
That's great. Glad the video helped. I wouldn't do a repair on my wife's car that I wouldn't do on my own. Last thing I need is her stranded on the side of the road. Thanks for watching and the comments.
I’ll take your word for it.
Thanks for the question and for viewing!
Good video!! Many Thanks!
Glad you liked it!Thanks for watching and the comment!
Thanks great help
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Nice video. Just a thought. Instead of the worm drive hose clamps, how about the constant tension clamps? The constant tension hose clamps are nice because you don’t have to worry about them loosening up. There is a learning curve to figure out how to lock and unlock them, but once I got that down, I became a fan. Thanks and peace
Good suggestion. I was trying to post a solution that is cheap and easy to come by, so that's why I went with the worm gear clamps. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Hokey dokey! am ready to try it! thank you
Good luck! Thanks for watching and the comments!
@@MoreBear Is done! I now have a 2speed 1/2ton. Guess I cooked the tranny.😭
My was metal hose actually broke at the condenser so I had to use a rubber hose from the condenser into the middle line but it’s been holding for about a month now pretty well
Glad this did this did the trick! Keep me posted. Please like and subscribe. Thank you for the comment and for watching!
Also when I buy a use car or truck I like to clean as much rust as possibly and then treat it with metal prep ( phosphoric acid then spray or brush zinc cold galvanizing coating aka paint then oil under coat everything lines fittings chassis frame doors panels crossmembers suspension bolts annually and touch up paint
Great advice! Thanks for watching and the comment!
Same thing can be used for fixing the radiator hose.
Thats a great tip! Thanks for the question and for watching!
It’s possible to replace the Fusion cooler lines with factory parts without too much trouble. Less than $100 and then avoid the worry of rusted lines popping another leak. Just get the right disconnect tool
My Fusion is a 3.5 V6 AWD (borrowed from the Edge/Flex etc). Parts are a little more expensive and harder to get. Just wanted to propose another option. Thanks for watching and the comment!
@@MoreBear in a pinch it will get you by but rusted lines like that are just going to spring another leak. The cost and difficulty of replacing the transmission if it runs low on oil make spending money for new lines worth the $70. Frankly I was shocked at how cheap the parts were. Similar parts from Toyota for my truck were several hundred dollars.
A good piece the whole thing needs replacement
It does, but in a pinch or with money and time constraints, this works just fine. Please like and subscribe. Thanks for watching and the question!
Good temporary fix but I would of flaired the to ends of the line to prevent them from slipping apart
I didn't see the need to flare the ends. Its been over a year now with no leaks or loosening. Great suggestion though. Thanks for the kind words and viewing the video.
I have this problem on my gmc sonoma 2000, my real problem is getting to the store to buy the braided tranny hose, I live in da boonies. I already have the clamps from my old windstar with the same issue, I bought extra.
I understand. It doesn't have to be braided lines. If you use the lines I suggest they work fantastic! Thanks for the question and for watching!
My transmission lines want come off and I’m changing transmission so is it ok if I cut mine and piece it back together with rubber fuel line
It is, but if you are going through the effort to replace the tranny, I'd buy new factory lines and replace IMHO. Please like and subscribe. Thanks for watching and the comment!
I wonder what you think about this. I have a GMC 2005 Savana 3500 6.0 liter 2 wheel drive.
One of my transmission coolant lines started leaking. How do you fix that??
The video will assist you. Replace the section that is leaking and drive on! Thanks for watching and the comment!
I know nothing. Are air bubbles a concern in trans lines when splicing them?
No purging is required meaning air bubbles are not a concern. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
My 02 f150 is leaking at the cooler lines. I've seen a few guys use this method of repair. Did this repair hold up?
Still going today! Thanks for watching and the comment!
I’m worried there isn’t some kind of flare on the end, how is it holding brother
The remaining steel lines are fastened in place (oem body mounts, clips etc). They are very rigid, and cannot move or spread apart more than a few inches. As a note, more then half of the OEM line is rubber. All I can say that it lasted 2 years with no issues. Please like and subscribe as it helps me as a creator. Thanks for watching and the comments!
2007 fusion...rusted through at plastic holders...cut out and installed rubber Trans line..dbl clamped
Awesome! Let me know how it goes in the future. Thanks for the comment and for viewing!
Did it hold up?
@@roberth912 yep
@@yyz125 I used gates transmission oil cooler hose with fuel injection clamps
Just did the same thing to
my Ford Ranger.
Glad to help. Thanks for watching and the comment!
howsa bout spraying it with Stop leak ???
Are you talking about Flex Seal? If so, I wouldn't recommend unless you have a screen door on the bottom of a boat ;). Traditional stop leak is more for seals and gaskets, not rusted pipes. If you try anything, let me know. Please like and subscribe as it really helps me as a creator. Thanks for the question and for watching!
These Are Rusted Pipes you have to replace them completely.
I wanted to show you an option for fixing the damaged section of pipe without replacing the whole pipe. Some people are on a budget. Some people need their car that day. Just provided options. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
You always should flare those lines and install fuel injection clamps !Take those worm clamps and throw them as far away as you can ! They will most likely fail !
I agree but the emphasis on this video was quick and cheap with parts you likely have already. I have not had any issue with the Stainless clamps even in a Canadian Climate. I keep an eye on it though. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
@@MoreBear Out of curiosity, a year later, how is she going?
@@BestLittleStudio I've had to make additional repairs as the metal line is rotting (rusting) in new areas. The original patch is holding like a champ! Thanks for the question and watching!
@@MoreBear
That solidifies my idea then.
I have the same problem with my 2010 Mazda 6. I am going to repair it today, but buy a new set of braided lines and build/run my own lines to prevent future issues.
@@BestLittleStudio Let me know how it goes. Thanks for watching and the comment.
I paint mine with rusteloum rusty primer and it stops them from rusting more.
Great tip! Thanks for the comment and for watching!
I did rustoleum black...used on lines on many Trans and fuel steel lines..stops further rusting even after Years
@@yyz125 yes it does.
Is there a lot of pressure on those lines ?
No there isn't. Remember too: at least half of the hose from factory is rubber. I've been running these repairs to date with no issues. Thanks for watching and the comment!
Can I do this on a 2007 Lincoln MKZ
Absolutely! It will work on ANY vehicle with steel transmission cooler lines. Thanks for watching and the comment!
flairing the ends would have helped in keeping the hose in place.
I didn't see the need to flare the ends. If I had a flaring kit I likely would have replaced with hard lines. Its been over a year now with no leaks or loosening. Great suggestion though. Thanks for the kind words and viewing the video.
What size rubber line did you use?
3/8
I used 3/8, but it may vary depending n the vehicle. Measure the pipe prior to purchae or buy multiple sizes and take the unused pipe back for a refund. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
I did almost the exact same thing to my 2010 ford focus ses it’s been couple weeks holding up. How is yours doing it’s a none pressure line so I pray it holds up
Un fortunately I don't have the vehicle anymore, but it held up for years, no issue. Remember, only the lower part of factory lines are metal. The rest is rubber. Please like and subscribe! Thanks for the question and for watching!
funny i did it on power steering and it works fine lol
Great to know! Thanks for watching and the comment!
those hose-clamps don't look "factory"
Haha. No, they don't. They are stainless though. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Did this really work cause I'm about to do it on my Mazda
Of course! I wouldn't have posted otherwise. I got you covered here on this channel. It's held up for years. Thanks for the question and for watching! Please subscribe for other DIY content!
I just subscribed thank u so much for ur help ur awesome
@@merleransom269 No worries. That's what my channel is for!
So I have a question for you my wife's suv is acting really weird sometimes when she comes to a stop the truck will jump or the engine will jump an cutoff on her the one time it happened to me I literally thought someone rear-ended me that's how hard it jumped an cut off on me idk what's going on with it I checked all the fluids and everything's fine on that part I just don't understand why it's doing that if you could help me I would really really appreciate
@@merleransom269 I would start with fluid levels, but it sounds like you did that already. Make sure you are checking the fluid level with the transmission in neutral and the wheels chocked. I have a video here that may assist you: ruclips.net/video/2YoSdjAg2so/видео.html
How safe is this? I mean, with the pressure there is no risk of the hose falling off?
These repairs lasted me years with no issue. Additionally, most brake lines (including mine) are a hybrid of hard and rubber lines from the factory. Hard where there is long semi straight runs, and rubber where there are many curves. Thanks for the question and for watching!
Just replace both of those rusty lines. U gonna be back under there patching leaks often 😂
You're not wrong, but I wanted to show options other than replacing the lines. Some people (including myself) don;t have $535 to pay for a complete replacement. Please like and subscribe. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
@@MoreBear completely understand 💯
If you have to repair a line more then once maybe it is time to just replace it 😂
Absolutely correct. But, I'm cheap. I also wanted to show others a cheap quick fix that they can rely on until they can get the lines replaced. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Why not just go all rubber hose? Instead of dealing with the middle part made of metal? Asking for a friend😁
I figure the manufacturer wanted metal lines for a reason, so truing to limit the amount of rubber. I might be over thinking though. Thanks for the comment and for watching! I hope your friend enjoyed too!
only 9 yrs. old?
At the time, yes. Shes a bit older now. That's what salt and brine (beet juice) does to vehicles in Southwestern Ontario. Thanks for the comment and for watching!
Another rusty ford 🙈
Hahaha. I have 2! Honestly, for the amount I drive each day, the salt and brine on the roads around here, its shocking that its not in the form of a pile. 315,000 km and still going! Thanks for watching and the comment!
@@MoreBear as ashamed as I am to admit it I got a couple myself we were all young and dumb 🙈 mostly Chevy now tho 👍
First guy I've seen use rubber for a temp fix... so, how long did you run it like that? lol
About 3 years. Then I got tired of cutting back leaky rusty lines and had them replaced with factory lines. The rubber hoses never leaked! Thanks for watching and the question!
Note to self: Spend the extra dough on stainless steel lines! $$$$
I honestly would have but I don't have the flaring tools. It was more to show that there are other temporary and cheaper options. Thanks for watching and the comment!