Help! Transmission Cooler line leaking?
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- Опубликовано: 30 янв 2018
- Are your transmission cooler lines leaking? This video is here to help you perform a quick, easy, and dirty repair to STOP them from leaking.
Enjoy!
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Great video, one little tip I could add is that when using double hose clamps you can get a stronger seal/clamp by installing the clamps so the screws are on opposite sides of the hose from eachother, the can be setup so that the screws both face the same direction but are still on opposite sides of the hose. This is how its done in the marine industry. Great video!!
_Great_ video - no music, clear audio, plain English, steady camera, nice slow explaination. Thanks Ben.
thank god useless distracting shit they call music
Awesome video! Brings back memories from the 90’s Auto Repair shops.
You da man, bro. Your explanation is to the point, presented with modesty and professionalism. I just wish we were all as humble and without the attitude. Kudos and thank you.
Should have the hose go all the way over flare then clamp before and after flare.
easy to understand, very professional and clear, this competent mechanic approach made it easy enough for me to understand the extent of the issue and that there are other effective ways to solving the problem at a fraction of the dealer's rip-off price. Thank you very much and thanks to RUclips for making this sort of info/help sharing available for all to benefit
i remember this video a few years back and i finally had to do my outlet side on my 96 grand cherokee jeep. glade this video was still posted man thanks a million for the tip. i did it before but with a side grinder very carfully. but now that i got a drimmel kit il use it sence im going to be in a tight spot on this one.
Great tip on cheap fix of the cooler line fitting - Thx for showing how it's done.
I usually just cut one side and open it u with a screwdriver twisting it like a screw it to each his own a lot of people dont realize that this can be done thanks for putting this out there
You are so nice! Hay ive had this quick fix on my 97 chevy k1500 for bout 3yrs now. Until today I just ordered the line. Fixing tomorrow. Thanks Teresa
Wow everyone's ideas are better than the one who actually took a lot of time to demonstrate and teach someone to save them money and gets criticize like crazy for doing so. I applaud you Ben for a good video and awesome money saver.
after an oil line leak i dove through the internet looking for a good fix and the worst option seems to be buying a new line. i have seen how to use 1/2 into 3/8 compression fittings to replace the OEM connector with its o rings and weird 8 dollar holding clips or using a barbed 3/8 to 1/2 inch connector. Or having the line replaced with hydraulic hose and fittings any shop that works with hydraulic's will crimp it for free. Replacing the hose by cutting off after the crimps . and now this ..just cutting the crimp off and saving the entire line. i love the internet. you know..or just go by a new line from doorman or acdelco and be back to square one in 3 years MAX haha you decide.
I'd say replace the hose but otherwise this is going to be my fix. If it was a newer line I'd convert to AN fittings or something but this is my trail rig and this is the kind of fix I like lol
Fuck off brandon
Wow. Interesting. I didn’t know how those crimps worked. Good to know. Much appreciated
Thanks for the all the tips and explaination!
Excellent and concise. You describe putting it back in the same orientation ;how you can mark the hose and the hard line and match it up. You're explanations and attention to detail is top-notch thank you! I would let you work on my 1994 Cadillac DeVille V8 original Chevy engine ( not north star)😆car any day.
🚗
I just wanna thank you man. This was really helpful, saludos desde Mexico!!!
This also applies to all crimped fittings. Garden hoses, and air compressor lines. Stainless pex crimp rings work well if it will fit
Nice job and thanks for sharing, especially for those of us who would rather avoid going broke buying new OEM steel lines for older cars/trucks! One suggestion... for those who are unable to get the hose past the flange or for steel lines that might not have a ridge... grab, borrow or rent a brake flaring tool and add a small flare to the tip of the steel pipe to keep the hose from slipping off and roasting your trans from instant fluid loss :)
Thank you! Excellent info about flaring end.
You are right ! Mine came off without the double flare ! Mine came off going down the freeway about sixty miles per hour !! pulled off the highway immediately , too late my tranny was fried on a 2008 GMC Sierra ! 4000 dollars latter i'm back on the road! Owned my truck since it was new ,56000 miles used Mobil one every oil change at only 2500 to 3000 miles , I have taken great care of all my vehicles all my life ! I'm 71 years old! My first short cut and diffidently my last ! I will just buy the right part from now on! Small pension and social security this mistake really set me back ! Just something to think about before doing !
Now I'm hoping the leak I saw was from one of these crimped fittings.
Yeah, I never understood why dealerships still charge OEM prices on parts for a vehicle 20+ years old🤔 Over time the car price falls yet they still want the same amount of money for X part as they did when the car was brand-new.
Thanks for the in-depth explanation, now I just have to try this on my 2011 Avalanche as one of mine is leaking. It looked like mine was leaking from the tiny pin hole on the fitting but after watching this video something tells me different. Looks like a simple reasonable fix, just have to find a good quality clamp to trust holding whatever pressure that line holds. Thanks again for taking us along, I'll be dealing with mine in the next couple days.
Nice idea! Mine let go today en route to work. Used this method and worked nicely!
Dude! We definitely owe you a beer! Thanks for the video! I hope you are employed as an instructor somewhere as you are excellent!! Best of luck!
Thanks Dude!!! We definitely owe you a beer!!
Worked great! -50 degrees Celsius and not a leak. Thanks!
Wow that's awesome here I am trying to figure out how to make those ferrel/nurled/flared ends and you just showed me they are already there! thank you
Thank you so very much for the upload really needed that
Great clip! Very smart, before seeing Your video I was wondering if those fittings could be fixed. Thank you!!!
Good back-yard fix; however I would strongly suggest you use high pressure hose clamps like the type that are for fuel injection lines. While the regular hose clamps you have will work, they can fail with the hose pressure constantly fluctuating, especially on higher loads, such as towing. I've had several blow completely off when towing a heavy load.
A fuel injection type clamp and QUALITY high-pressure hose cost a bit more but they are far less likely to fail. Living out here in the boonies, I keep a variety of sizes in my tool box for this reason. They are useful for all sorts of fixes.
Just my 2-cents and thanks for the video!
Do you happen to have a link to the clamps you recommend?
thanks for the tip billbob!
Great job. Much appreciated. I do all the work on My vehicles and although I’ve never had to do this I had heard from a friend this is what he did as well. You demonstrated it very well. So much so that I might go and fix my 17 yr old suburban which I can almost guarantee is wet at these interfaces. Not enough to be a major issue but enough to go in and fix. I might even get new hose at the same time! I bought a Glarks 80Pcs 7-21mm 304 Stainless Steel Single Ear Stepless Hose Clamps with Pincers Kit which is a nice alternative to the hose clamp. Thanks again great job
Well done, sir! And excellent video. Thank you!
We have had our 2005 Subaru Forester stuck in the workshop for 2 months and 2weeks because of this crimp. mechanic literally rebuilt the transmission to fix our ATF leak, the leak kept coming from above the transmission which eventually lead me to believe it HAS to be something else and something simple. a little bit of research and i came across this epic helpful video. the mechanic has even challenged me to come fix this fault as he feels the crimping is leak proof. thank you so much, I plan to kick his ass when I'm done and if your fix works. this the only logical fix left. THANK YOU SOOOO MUCH!!!
I wouldn’t use silicone on the connection and used to do this all the time and what I learned is if you use something smooth and larger than a hose to expand it and put it in boiling water for a few then it will slip on no problem
Thanks for explaining this, I also did not know the original crimped clamps came apart like that. Saved MY ASS ABOUT 70 BUCKS, THANK YOU SIR.
You are very welcome! Thank you for your comment! Pleased to know it saved you some cash!!
Thank you brother, much appreciated.
Excellent. Thanks for the tip and the full demo.
Thank you this really helped me out. Seriously. Thank you.
Great video! Thanks for all the info!
Great video. Depending on the vehicle I cannot imagine this is doable with the line still connected under the car, needs to be removed first to do this trick the right way.
It worked, clear generic silicone tape, on a leaking oil cooler line that has up to 65psi of hot oil in it. It was leaking 1 quart every 200 to 300 miles and now it's leaking none. 350 miles later of mountain, Interstate, and town driving. Used 2 hours of time (half was cleaning hose) and a $7 10' roll of silicone tape that I wanted to test. Took about 30" of clear tape to do one end of the hose while on the car. I prefer the clear as it allows me to see through it. I developed a technique to do it in tight space. Gave it 3 overlapping layers in a different pattern. Straight wrap, diagonal, then straight again. Any pattern works but important to have different seal points of different wrapping and do it as tight as you can, with space provided. Also important to squeeze and rub firmly on it to get each layer to fuse for 5 minutes or so before the next layer and the final layer. If it's higher than 65psi I would also place single double wrapped pieces directly over the leak, for extra strength material before the first layer of the 3 wraps. Or wrap it 4 times.
That's cool, what if the leak is somewhere in the aluminum part ? Is there a way to fix that as well ?
@JSingh100 the fix didn't last long. Probably bc I couldn't tape it very well while attached. The tape should repair anything it can wrap around.
Get a cup of hot water and dip the end of the hose in it for a minute or 2. It will soften right up and slide right on, then, as it cools, it will form to the shape of the pipe/flare that you are pushing it over.
It's reinforced *braided* hose, normally operating at 200+ºF. Not going to work.
@SerenoOunce then maybe a heat gun or as such to warm the rubber. A little goes a long way when your working in unheated garage in the Winter, Midwest.
How dem said you don't have any Sense
@@horacesamuels2052"dem ..😂😂😂😂 pretty pathetic
Very educational video. Thank you!
Sweet! Money saving practical hacks. Right on brother.
Your video was a blessing to me today. I was able to fix my transmission line quickly with parts I have in the shop. Thanks so much and God Bless!
0:11 >>>> Music to my ears ..THANKS BUDDY .
Thank you!! Great video. I used your technique on my motorhome oil cooling line and it worked like magic.
That's wonderful!
hey thank you for this video very easy to follow!
Holy moly! That is super ingenious man. Great video thank you so much
I had 2 leaks from the same hose fittings on my 89 jeep XJ, did not want to go get new lines, instead got 2 steel hose clamps from home depot and clamped it down medium snug on the middle of the fitting, worked very well for me, therefore no more leaks, total cost $ 2.23.
So you did not take the crimp fitting off?
@@williamlindsay3912 No sir, one clamp did not stop the leak first attempt, I used 2 steel clamps in tandem across, I mean on top of the existing crimp fitting, snug it down in increments till you have no leaks.
Thank you.
@Dawood K
I was thinking the same but I wasn’t sure if it’s going to work, thanks for the tip 👍
Thx 4 ur tip I wanna try it on my 2003 Cadillac CTS. Can you tell me the exact name and size/specs of the 2 steel hose clamps you got from Home Depot? I would really appreciate it. Thank you good sir.
Great fix for my 97 ram Cummins truck. After replacing the leaking hose with a new factory quick connect one from napa....it started to leak again. After further inspection, it appears the metal line has worn a groove causing the o ring inside the quick connect to leak. On your method of fix for now..went down to napa and bought some 1/2 inch oil cooler hose and installed it just like you did making sure I went past the flange....no leaks yet. This may prove a better fix than replacing with quick connects. I'll have to replace metal cooler lines if I want the quick connect which will be a major PITA.
Nice repair! Love it. Those lines are spendy...
200$
I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel to split the crimp fitting on the heater core hose. I had do it still in the car and the Dremel is small enough to get in there easily.
This is a very good video and helpful to me.Thanks.
Great video. Another option is to flare the end of the line slightly and force the hose over that flare.
Life saver. Thanks dude, just what I needed today. 🍻
Really helpful video . Easy to understand. Thank you my friend.
Great show, very informative and now I'm down the road with no leaks. I used zip ties with the metal tabs (available @ home depot) instead of those cheap metal hose clamps.
Thank You!
That is excellent to hear and those ties work so much better. You're welcome!
@@bensielaffauto22 zipties?...i thought that was a joke ...link us to product please .
I DO HAVE EXACTLY THE SAME PROBLEM , I will do the same. THANK YOU FOR YOUR VIDEO ITS VERY HELPFUL
Excellent idea I need to do this on my Impala thanks for the tip.
Thanks Ben 😃👍
Thank you so much I spent a lot of time thinking that metal piece could be taken off by a tool.
Theoretically, if you have a very small pry tool, or a very little flathead, you could un pry all the fixtures and slide it off, but it might still leak after you retighten it
Very well explained Thank you
What a great video fantastic job you saved me a ton of money
Thanks for this video bro it really helping a lot of people
nice job- good closeup video and good clean explanation
When replacing, will all the trans fluids leak out
You got talent my brother wether black or white nuff respect i learn something from you. God bless you brother 🇯🇲
This was greatly useful. While diagnosing my car's coolant leak, I discovered that my transmission cooling line was leaking something fierce. This fix should go a long way to helping solve this issue. Thanks!
I dip the end of a rubber hose I want to expand in boiling water for a moment.
I pump the gas 3 times in my 1986 buggy
Even to this day gm continues to use shitty crimps on their oil cooler / trans lines . This problem has been happening since the 90's . Pure junk
Yep. Started on my 18 Tahoe. 23k miles. Soo pissed
And replacement lines are damned expensive.
Ac too my Chevy crude AC line is leaking
They need to put something on the chevys to fix. Cant make money having every part 100% reliable 😁
@@tyrantwatch9600 right because Toyota is on the verge of bankruptcy...... 🙄🤦♂️
Thanks helped it a lot!
Done it many times at my shop always use new hose and clamps smooth on the inside.
Very useful , I’ve got this problem
Good fix. Great tips. Thanks!
great simple video. thanks ben!
Super helpful! Thank you so much! 🧜♂️
Yep a better way to recycle, nice job. Thank you, you give me confidence in trying.
Just one little thing i would have done different, i would have put that first clamp on directly over the first flare and slightly beyond about 1/16", and not just up to the flare. Over the flare and 1'16" beyond, that way it crimps the hose on the opposite side of the flare truly preventing it from slipping off. So it would be putting the clamp up to the second flare, and clamping over the first flare crimping the hose between the first and second flares. That is in essence how they did it, that metal clamp crimped beyond the first flare in the grove between the flares.
This is good information. Thank you.
Thank you for sharing this really help me to understand how to repair this hose .
Great info! Thanks
Thank you for the vid. Awesome. Taught in automotive school and plumbing. Hose clamps should be opposite one another for strength and torque pull. Just FYI. Thanks again
Do you know if you can do the same with the motor oil cooling line?
thanks, awesome anything i can do about the snow ❄️ in my driveway. 2010 Dodge nitro
at the start of the video I was like "pfft, Amateur hour..." then I watched it till the end... very cool little find, it's sad that they use those clamps, yes they fail more but... at least you can fix them on the side of the road with stuff from the hardware store
Thanks dude that was a big help you're a good teacher keep it up
Very thoroughly done
Thank you!
Pro tip just add a flare to the tip of line and ran a single hose clamp thats what we do at the factory if you have a brake line flaring kit
Essentially a poor man's tubing bead tool... Works "good enough" for those of us that can't deal with the $500 pricetag of the Parker tools and don't want to machine arbors for a pipe cutter Parker tool knockoff.
I thought my transmission cooler lines were leaking but it turns out it’s the larger oil cooler lines. These lines are very difficult to change on a Chevrolet pick-up with four wheel drive. Think I’ll try your idea on them. Thanks for the video!
do you have a newer one? i saw on the gmt400 /480 platform shit is wedged in pretty good...i wish'd i had 4wd on my 98 serria slt until i had to work on it lol
Thanx Ben, it was a nice informative video.
Much Appreciated!
Good to know! Thanks.
Thank you for this video! My 05 Caravan split a transmission hose and they are no longer available, even from a dealer. I used this method to cut off the rubber hose and clamp a new hose on.
My trans cooler line (crimp) is starting to leak. Did you do the work without removing line? Does a lot of oil come out and did you have to bleed air when finished? Thanks, Don
@@donsmith9081 I removed the lines. My line split while driving so I lost a lot of trans oil. I only had a little bit dribble out of the hoses. There's some pressure in those lines when the trans is operating so you really don't need to worry about bleeding. At least not with a DGC!
You better still have the money for new cooler lines just in case if you mess up on trying to fix it lol but ill probally do that on my suburban cuz dont got the money lol thank you for the video!!
I could never use those gloves. Im too clumsy lol. Thanks for the video, going to try this.
You are welcome!
Smart🤙🏾👍🏾🥳😲, this will save me time and money in the future, thank you.
You are welcome!
Thanks very much for the video
Thank you for the information it was very helpful.
Very good vidéo. Clarity max. No background distraction.
Did this and saved me money thank you so much
Very good clip it was better to see this done out of the truck 👍👍
like your video . i was told to have one clamp one way. the other clamp the other way to off set the pressure.
Bro thank you been searching for days clutch
great video. one of the best I've seen.
Thank you!
@@bensielaffauto22 I got a leak on a steel brake line that's Factory print into a braided hose coming out of the ABS box on a Ford E350 the leak is right at the bottom of the steel line where it connects to the factory crimp how would that with this repair work on that
Awesome info
excellent teaching tool!
Hi many thanks for this video
I did it yesterday on my car and it worked perfectly
thank you!
Great job this video was very helpful