Brother, thank you so much, I appreciate the content. My lines are in the constant drip phase, which is really annoying because it's getting worse. I normally do most of my repairs, but after watching your video, I pushed off the idea of buying new tools and trans lines for this job and just do what you did. Thanks a million. It's a quick repair that works and keeps the cost down. Gotta eat! 👍 👍
You could tie rap your hoses back on the retaining clip so that the weight of these hoses do not fatigue the metal near the radiator connections. They will bounce when you drive down the road.
I had a similar experience but with a different vehicle. Mine was a hydraulic leak. The lines rusted and it was hard to keep the rubber hoses in place while under pressure. An advice I give you is to flare up the end of the metal hoses like a brake line, this creates a larger end and when under pressure, it prevents it from sliding out due to the increase in diameter and it stopping at the hose clamp. I drove this vehicle for many miles after the home repair without any issues. The idea came to me after 3 unsuccessful tries and waste of hydraulic fluid. Hope this helps.
I was gonna comment on the need for having to flare the end but there you’re, you have already said it. I don’t know if there’s a small inexpensive tool you can use while the pipes are still in the engine bay though.
I have an 2008 Ranger which is leaking power steering fluid from the low pressure side near the cooler. I thought at first it was a rubber line going from the aluminum cooler to a steel return line to the rack and pinion. I replaced the rubber hose, but it was still leaking exactly the same way. I surmised that there must be a leak from rust under or very close to where the rubber meets the steel line. Before I watched this video I came to the same solution. I am going to cut the steel line back and attach a longer rubber hose and clamp it with two clamps. Your video has given me confidence that it will work. Thanks!
Used your method with 3/8’s high pressure rubber fuel injection line with double ended clamps to replace a small section of rusted out lines wrapped with the plastic clip holding them together. Works like a charm. Spent less than $40 saving hundreds going to a local shop. Besides they were all backed up with work 2 weeks out and I need my truck everyday. Thank you so much !!!
Good idea on 2 clamps per end since there is no barb helping to keep the hose from sliding off. I would re-tighten those hose clamps in a couple weeks. Rubber hoses soften up after some heat cycles and the clamps won't be tight anymore.
Your truck is so nice that at least once during a hot summer day, I would getting rust proofed with a Krown treatment. They can last so long now that rust proofing is worth it.
As you pointed out, and as I found out on my own, the rust appears and eats through these lines only inside the rubber brackets which retain moisture, regardless of the manufacturer of the vehicle, if the vehicle has this type of bracket. Repairing is much easier, much less expensive, much more convenient and just as effective as replacing the line assemblies.
Spring type clamps are the best type clamp when used properly. They adjust themselves through heat cycles and take up shrinking always keeping tension.
I have to do this exact job for transmission cooler pipe. So will do exactly as you have done, when hose arrives, Plus double up on the hose clamps as advised, Think i would have done that any way. Useful video.
It will leak again using the worm gear hose clamps, because they do not expand and contract according to ambient and operating temp. I have experienced this first hand myself using worm gear hose clamps on an external transmission cooler. It leaks at the fittings where worm gear hose clamps are used. The hose can actually blow off when it's very hot during the summer, without that clamp expanding accordingly with the line's temp once expanded at trans fluid's 180F ~ 200F. You should get brand new spring clamps.
I am personally not a fan of slipping rubber hose over trans lines. I have had them blow off and leak trans fluid everywhere. Its under a decent amount of pressure. I either replace the lines completely or in that case you could use a compression fitting to connect the two metal pieces together. Or even flair the line a little then slip the rubber hose over that.
I was just replacing a motor mount yesterday and noticed my rusted lines finally broke through. It’s a tiny tiny hole. It’s small enough to where it’s just creating a wet coating in the line. No dripping luckily. Been rusty for a long while now but idk if I should spend the $70 on new lines or just do a jerry rig like this. The entire metal pipe part that goes along the radiators bottom so I think the whole assembly would make more sense
Great video. I would use this as a temporary fix. Best thing would be replacing the line or lines. That way it should last as long as the truck or same amount of years
Nice fix! I think I would have flared the ends just for extra protection and piece of mind, (but that’s just me) but yes I agree, no need to buy new factory hoses for this.
T bolt clamps is the way to go. I had a lot of problems with those worm type clamps on air intake on a turbocharged car. In 10 years not one t bolt clamp came loose on that car.
Seriously I thought it was an oil leak and ignored it since the csr wa speaking oil already and check tyranny level and bam no fluid I'm shook right now I'm going to swap the hose and pray to God my car is okay I'm so dumb and upset
@@giovannicolaluca6977 I ended up just buying the cooling lines that were made to fit my vehicle and replacing the entire thing. Thanks for the reply. :)
@Rudy Diego I replaced the lines on a 2005 Jeep Liberty. It wasn't too bad. One thing I didn't do that I should've, was take the front drive shaft off to reach where the lines actually tie into the transmission. I just used compression fittings and tied the new lines together right below where they actually connect in. Mainly, just fishing the new lines into place was the only problem. I took the bumper and front grill off to connect the new lines into the front of the radiator. It probably depends on the vehicle. But all in all, it's not too bad of a job.
It almost looks like it broke at a point of movement, maybe from vibration, temperature, or bumps in the road. As you say, the clips are, ironically, part of the problem. I bet the dealers see this as a common design weak point.
Hi, I have. 1998 4.6 f150 and I just changed the spark plugs and cables along with a new MAF sensor and it was running fine for a week. This week I added a radiator flush for a couple of days and my transmission started to feel sluggish(3 days into driving) & it was empty when I checked it. I pour a little bit of oil and the meter stick shows that it has too much. I drive it, it begins to show signs of sluggishness and it’s empty again. Didn’t see any leaks in my parking spot or anywhere the car has been parked. I’m thinking it could be a cooling hose but I was hoping to get maybe some advice before I go to war w the transmission. Thanks and thanks for posting your videos. 👍 stay safe everyone ......
same thing with my power steering lines, I can find the hose but I don't know the name of that piece thats leaking, the end of the line has a screw and the other end you just put it in the hose and clamp it
Had something similar happen on my 01 5.4 the flexible brake line going to my front wheel had corroded right where it connected and almost popped.That would of been scary. but all my other flexible brake lines are ok LOL just that one went bad so weird.
All the ARF leaked out of my 1999 F-150... Gotta climb under the thing, and see what is leaking. Even after fixing the leak , gonna cost @ $ 80 for new ATF....Ouch !
My truck has been leaking the same way and I need to fix mine. For all the lines it’s only $100-110... but this looks to basically cost next to nothing.
I was just watching the start of your video and was wondering what the timing belt change was from. i`ve just done my Vauxhall Zafira 2010 1.6 and it looks very similar
Next time, spray some rust penetrant on the quick connect and let it sit, blow out all the grit and re-spray the rust penetrant. And, get yourself Assenmacher Specialty Tools 8021 Oil Cooler Liner Remover Tool, 3/8"
Please at the top of a 1988 radiator on f150 Ford truck how to fix the coolant line please show me will you show me how to fix it what button do I meant will you show me that right now how to fix that on my truck
Brother, thank you so much, I appreciate the content. My lines are in the constant drip phase, which is really annoying because it's getting worse. I normally do most of my repairs, but after watching your video, I pushed off the idea of buying new tools and trans lines for this job and just do what you did. Thanks a million. It's a quick repair that works and keeps the cost down. Gotta eat! 👍 👍
You could tie rap your hoses back on the retaining clip so that the weight of these hoses do not fatigue the metal near the radiator connections. They will bounce when you drive down the road.
I had a similar experience but with a different vehicle. Mine was a hydraulic leak. The lines rusted and it was hard to keep the rubber hoses in place while under pressure. An advice I give you is to flare up the end of the metal hoses like a brake line, this creates a larger end and when under pressure, it prevents it from sliding out due to the increase in diameter and it stopping at the hose clamp. I drove this vehicle for many miles after the home repair without any issues. The idea came to me after 3 unsuccessful tries and waste of hydraulic fluid. Hope this helps.
Great idea to better secure the rubber hoses to the metal tubing
I was gonna comment on the need for having to flare the end but there you’re, you have already said it. I don’t know if there’s a small inexpensive tool you can use while the pipes are still in the engine bay though.
I have an 2008 Ranger which is leaking power steering fluid from the low pressure side near the cooler. I thought at first it was a rubber line going from the aluminum cooler to a steel return line to the rack and pinion. I replaced the rubber hose, but it was still leaking exactly the same way. I surmised that there must be a leak from rust under or very close to where the rubber meets the steel line. Before I watched this video I came to the same solution. I am going to cut the steel line back and attach a longer rubber hose and clamp it with two clamps. Your video has given me confidence that it will work. Thanks!
Used your method with 3/8’s high pressure rubber fuel injection line with double ended clamps to replace a small section of rusted out lines wrapped with the plastic clip holding them together. Works like a charm. Spent less than $40 saving hundreds going to a local shop. Besides they were all backed up with work 2 weeks out and I need my truck everyday. Thank you so much !!!
Oldschool fix... works for me! Always on a budget bro. Good video
Good idea on 2 clamps per end since there is no barb helping to keep the hose from sliding off. I would re-tighten those hose clamps in a couple weeks. Rubber hoses soften up after some heat cycles and the clamps won't be tight anymore.
MAP74 I don’t trust hose clamps I like the one time use crimp clamps.
Your truck is so nice that at least once during a hot summer day, I would getting rust proofed with a Krown treatment. They can last so long now that rust proofing is worth it.
As you pointed out, and as I found out on my own, the rust appears and eats through these lines only inside the rubber brackets which retain moisture, regardless of the manufacturer of the vehicle, if the vehicle has this type of bracket. Repairing is much easier, much less expensive, much more convenient and just as effective as replacing the line assemblies.
Doing this now. Blown line on 97 f150. I'm using compression to hose barb fittings. I feel safer. Great vid thanks
Spring type clamps are the best type clamp when used properly. They adjust themselves through heat cycles and take up shrinking always keeping tension.
I like the compression hose clamps. They will continue to be tight as the rubber hose deforms and compresses. I like the spring clamps.
Thanks u saved me hours of aggravation ,$$$ . Had 97 ford E350 do the same thing this week .
Same problem,same truck. Thanks for the good video and how to save money.
I have to do this exact job for transmission cooler pipe. So will do exactly as you have done, when hose arrives, Plus double up on the hose clamps as advised, Think i would have done that any way. Useful video.
Compression fittings / unions work well for a repair like this too
just did the timing on my 04 and was all excited. cranked it over and then these two lines in the exact same spot started to leak.
It will leak again using the worm gear hose clamps, because they do not expand and contract according to ambient and operating temp. I have experienced this first hand myself using worm gear hose clamps on an external transmission cooler. It leaks at the fittings where worm gear hose clamps are used. The hose can actually blow off when it's very hot during the summer, without that clamp expanding accordingly with the line's temp once expanded at trans fluid's 180F ~ 200F. You should get brand new spring clamps.
I am personally not a fan of slipping rubber hose over trans lines. I have had them blow off and leak trans fluid everywhere. Its under a decent amount of pressure. I either replace the lines completely or in that case you could use a compression fitting to connect the two metal pieces together. Or even flair the line a little then slip the rubber hose over that.
Those T bolt hose clamps work even better, they have tighter hold.
Should have flared the ends. I had some blow off with using only the multiple clamp method.
What do you mean flare the ends
I was just replacing a motor mount yesterday and noticed my rusted lines finally broke through. It’s a tiny tiny hole. It’s small enough to where it’s just creating a wet coating in the line. No dripping luckily. Been rusty for a long while now but idk if I should spend the $70 on new lines or just do a jerry rig like this. The entire metal pipe part that goes along the radiators bottom so I think the whole assembly would make more sense
Great video. I would use this as a temporary fix. Best thing would be replacing the line or lines. That way it should last as long as the truck or same amount of years
Yeah temporary fix till they brake again. This repair will last just as long.
Excellent video will definitely be doing this same repair on my Hummer H2 cooler lines tomorrow. 👍😎👌
Nice fix! I think I would have flared the ends just for extra protection and piece of mind, (but that’s just me) but yes I agree, no need to buy new factory hoses for this.
T bolt clamps is the way to go.
I had a lot of problems with those worm type clamps on air intake on a turbocharged car. In 10 years not one t bolt clamp came loose on that car.
What is a tbolt
Nice work RT there!!!
Sweet riggin' tacos!
I'm going to try this first on my Suburban's oil cooler lines that are leaking.
had the same exact problem. thanks for the solution.
At least your fluid looks nice and red..mine looks like used oil
Same
Seriously I thought it was an oil leak and ignored it since the csr wa speaking oil already and check tyranny level and bam no fluid I'm shook right now I'm going to swap the hose and pray to God my car is okay I'm so dumb and upset
What diameter hose should be used?
What's the hose type and size?
It looks like I'm going to have to do this. Great video.
@@giovannicolaluca6977 I ended up just buying the cooling lines that were made to fit my vehicle and replacing the entire thing. Thanks for the reply. :)
@@MorrowSind how hard was it to replace it?
@Rudy Diego I replaced the lines on a 2005 Jeep Liberty. It wasn't too bad. One thing I didn't do that I should've, was take the front drive shaft off to reach where the lines actually tie into the transmission. I just used compression fittings and tied the new lines together right below where they actually connect in. Mainly, just fishing the new lines into place was the only problem. I took the bumper and front grill off to connect the new lines into the front of the radiator. It probably depends on the vehicle. But all in all, it's not too bad of a job.
Great video, I tried it on steering lines but the clamps would come loose with the heat/cold cycles, will try it on trans coolant lines though
Use Fuel Injector clamps.
we always called those aircraft clamps. not sure if thats correct though. well done!
It almost looks like it broke at a point of movement, maybe from vibration, temperature, or bumps in the road. As you say, the clips are, ironically, part of the problem. I bet the dealers see this as a common design weak point.
BTW those hose clamps you hate and claim get weak over time. ARE the BEST hose clamps that have ever been made
Same thing happened on my bosses 05. only spot it was leaking was at the clip.
Are clamps free where you live?
Thank you!!! Youre a life saver!!!!
Great tip, get rid of the damn retainer clips
What brand is that scissor jack? Looks pretty sturdy
Seems they use Metal brackets to support Aluminum Lines too.
then Bi-Electric galvanization Corrodes the Lines. 😡
Thanks for another great Fix Tip
i had a trans cooler line leaking but it was just those shitty clamps that got loose over time, so i just replaced them like a hour ago
Hi, I have. 1998 4.6 f150 and I just changed the spark plugs and cables along with a new MAF sensor and it was running fine for a week. This week I added a radiator flush for a couple of days and my transmission started to feel sluggish(3 days into driving) & it was empty when I checked it. I pour a little bit of oil and the meter stick shows that it has too much. I drive it, it begins to show signs of sluggishness and it’s empty again. Didn’t see any leaks in my parking spot or anywhere the car has been parked. I’m thinking it could be a cooling hose but I was hoping to get maybe some advice before I go to war w the transmission. Thanks and thanks for posting your videos. 👍 stay safe everyone ......
same thing with my power steering lines, I can find the hose but I don't know the name of that piece thats leaking, the end of the line has a screw and the other end you just put it in the hose and clamp it
Will you eventually replace all lines or keep them as is to see how long they last?
Thanks for the video gonna save me big time
Mine is leaking right where the plastic clip is. This must be a common problem on the 04-08 F-150
Cheap repair but i would went with compression fittings or like everyone else recommend id at least flare lines for better secure fit.
What does flare line means?
Hello, what size rubber hose did you use to repair those cooler lines?
Thanks so much after watching this video it help me to solve the same problem THANKS😂
Had something similar happen on my 01 5.4 the flexible brake line going to my front wheel had corroded right where it connected and almost popped.That would of been scary. but all my other flexible brake lines are ok LOL just that one went bad so weird.
I would use fuel injection clamps ! Much better than worm clamps which are prone to fail !
What size hose fits over the old metal trans line you cut off?thx
I had a van once where someone tried this approach but they used cheap air compressor hose instead of transmission hose. Leaked like crazy. 😂
I have 1 line rusted. Mechanic even showed me. Wonder how much this is going to cost?
All the ARF leaked out of my 1999 F-150... Gotta climb under the thing, and see what is leaking. Even after fixing the leak , gonna cost @ $ 80 for new ATF....Ouch !
How is the truck holding up??
Nice lift👌
Can you give us an update ? I'm going to attempt this method on a 88 Chevy c1500
Wrong clamps, those slip off easily.
Need res constant pressure Spring clamps and the hand tool
See that too often Measures to secure something cause bigger problems. Another is when plastic wire loom rubs through the wires and causes breaks
oil resistant rubber hose? trans fluid is not just regular oil.
PEX CRIMPERS !!!
I need to to the same thing, replace a 3 or 4 inches of each line.
Had you to top up your transmission with a lot of fluid after this repair.?
Good video and idea.
My truck has been leaking the same way and I need to fix mine. For all the lines it’s only $100-110... but this looks to basically cost next to nothing.
I was just watching the start of your video and was wondering what the timing belt change was from. i`ve just done my Vauxhall Zafira 2010 1.6 and it looks very similar
Next time, spray some rust penetrant on the quick connect and let it sit, blow out all the grit and re-spray the rust penetrant. And, get yourself Assenmacher Specialty Tools 8021 Oil Cooler Liner Remover Tool, 3/8"
If my transmission cooler line were it goes into transmission would it cause my vehicle to over heat it does have a leak
Yes , it will overheat & raise transmission fluid temp , then leak ATF everywhere through overflow tube
Great Fix! Thanks
My 02 f150 is leaking at the cooler lines. Did this repair hold up?
Great Idea! Good video
My favorite type of repair!! Easy and free
I'm assuming its 3/8 transmission type or similar rubber hose?
Hey Daniel how are those LED headlights working for you in your Fusion? I just got one and I wanted your opinion if those LEDs I should get
don't use gasoline line the transmission fluid will eat through it fast. you need hydraulic line.
Any idea what diameter hose it took? My F150 is leaking here too, and I'm gonna go get some hose and clamps to fix it this way?
Were they 3/8" by chance? I may need to do this too..
What kind of lift are you using?.
Does your dad still have the 1998 Silverado and if so, how's it going and what's been replaced recently?
At 2:44 though he was going to say "...I regretted buying a Ford..."
awesome idea!!!!!!! LEts goo baby
Is that an Aveo that your doing a timing belt on in the beginning of the video?
Mine is leaking from the compression nut on the transmission line
Classic FORD!!!!
Got a 2011 jeep compass that has thos what do I do. It drives goo
Similar situation with my Camry leaks out all my fluid and then starts to overheat my car
Exactly what my does thanks I union mine it was night mare
Thank you!
Please at the top of a 1988 radiator on f150 Ford truck how to fix the coolant line please show me will you show me how to fix it what button do I meant will you show me that right now how to fix that on my truck
On a 1988 Ford f150 truck how to put the cooling line transmission line to the radiator leak at the top
At the top of the radiator where is leaked how to repair that on a 1988 Ford f150 would you show me that please right now
Without any flare it will eventually slide off and loose all your fluid hopefully not the trans.
Definitely a temporary fix.
Were do those pipes go to
One end on bottom of radiator , other end on transmission cooler
Make sure you don,t use hose that is not rated for fuel or transmission
rust, that's not rust, come visit me in jersey and look under my F250, ill show you what rust is. in jersey, we call that patina.
Lol😂
In Indiana we call it character
That wasn’t free, you bought 4 clamps 😂
I had exactly the same problem caused by the clip . Cost $300 for the lines.
Thanks
👍👍
Why the fuck are you not catching all that oil?
Isnt it going to go thru the concrete into the soil underneath?