2006-2011 Ford Fusion - Transmission Cooler Lines Leaking - Fixed - Quick/Easy - Affordable - DIY
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- Опубликовано: 23 авг 2024
- Sup guys, got a 2011 ford fusion with leaking transmission cooler lines. Quick and easy affordable way to fix your lines and avoid future corrosion.
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Thank you for explaining this in simple terms so someone like me can figure it out!!! This is the last step I’m finishing up before my sons car will be hopefully put back together and drivable again!! Fingers crossed 😏
Lol. 9:10 "don't half ass this part" while doing a half ass repair... love it lol.
Lmao its been 8 months and still works no issues. Better than factory lol
I just did this repair today on my 2007 Ford Fusion. No more leaking transmission fluid! The local shops quoted me at $400-$700 for the repair and this cost me $32 in parts and about 2 hours start to finish!
How’s it running is it still good with the rubber lines instead of metal?
@@rexsta6578. Seems to be holding up really well! I have not noticed any trans fluid puddles or any hard shifting due to low levels. I don’t check the fluids as often as I should. It was spot on last couple of times I checked!
Having the barbed fittings doesn’t restrict the OEM flow of things? It would seem like it’d creat a restriction in the natural flow having barb fittings that essentially are making the hole a little smaller.
if you are replacing with a new line coat the new line with paint to protect it and make it last longer
I need to change mine for 2008. I'll be coating the metal with primer and bed liner coating, though.
I had a problem with my AC Condenser / Transmission Cooler leaking trans fluid. I replaced the Trans cooler part of the AC Condenser with an aftermarket Trans Cooler. It works
great and it looks like an intercooler in front of the coolers.
HOW did you connect the left side??? Into what’s left of the metal pipes you cut in the beginning?
I think this is a genius idea btw thank you soo sooo much for this!!🙏💪
The rubber to rubber is a barbed connection with the clamps. And the rubber hose to metal is just that. The hose is tight enough to make a seal with the clamp.
@@gtflips thank you!!! But any advice for getting the rubber line to slide over the metal any easier??
@@markbeshay use a lighter to warm up the rubber, then you can slide it over.
@@gtflips thank you!!
I did the same thing u did and ended up without anymore leaks but the cooler and atf is overheating like craxy now it will overheat from driving 65+mph for less than a few minutes
@@gtflips gonna get the oem part now since the car isn’t drive-able at highway speeds anymore
Is the barb connector any smaller interior diameter than the metal pipe? I had this done for 325 by a mechanic a few years ago but if I have to do it again I’ll be doing this, thanks for the vid
Nice. Thanks for the video.
Do you really need it as tight as 11/32 hose will make it or will 3/8" hose work ?
Do you happen to have a video on how to replace a reverse band on this car?
They must put the metal lines intentionally for repair
Which is the hot in and the cold out on the cooler my jackass was careless and got distracted and can't remember which is which
Yes it works but….. The OEM replacement parts aren’t that expensive, less than $120, and relatively easy to install, even the upper hose set that goes under the battery box. Why risk a 5000 transmission job if you are hanging on to the car for a year or two.
Im not risking anything. The entire car using hoses and clamps that you trust. I live in the rust belt. It will rust all over again. And this is my beater car, just showing ppl who dont have 120 dollars to spend theres a easy way to get your car up and running again until they can do it the right way if they want.
@@gtflips definitely gets the job done and can be driven hundreds if not thousands of miles before you can acquire oem spec lines
This is a good fix better than oem nice job
“ don’t stick it in into your ready “ - 8:30
This must be a northern car. Look at the rust, I'm originally from the Midwest and I know that rust.
You got it, northeast
Would this cause my car to not accelerate but the rpms go up?
Transmission is toast
But what if I get knew transmission lines? @@Nasiumm
@@ItCantRainForever2 wouldn’t do anything, it’s too late at that point, the gears in your transmission are most likely all rounded off, I bet if you drain your transmission fluid there will be huge chunks of metal inside. You will need a whole new transmission to fix the problem, and that’s expensive, sometimes better off buying a new car
@@Nasiumm why would I drain the transmission? That's not good for an older car. It's a 2006
@@ItCantRainForever2 if the car doesn’t move but rpm’s go up then it’s garbage anyway, you don’t have to drain the trans I was just saying if you did, I bet there would be a ton of metal in it
I wouldn't let you change a spark plug in my junk Briggs & Stratton lawn mower engine from 1978,your a butcher
Thanks for making this video 🫡
I hate to bother you again. On the rubber hose end of the old lines, you used the barb connector to attach the rubber hose to rubber hose. On the other end, does the rubber hose just fit over the old metal lines you cut? And you use a clamp? I’m sorry this is my first car and I couldn’t see what you did on yhat end. Thank You.
Yes you got it. Rubber hose to rubber hose. I used a barb connector and tighten with the clamps and the hose on the other side fits over the metal pipe with a clamp to tighten
Great idea. Have you found any leaks since your repair?
Hey, no leaks, runs and drives better than factory lol, dont have to worry about rusty lines
Thank you so much for this video I was having problem finding this part and my car is been laid up for two weeks
I’m going to try this so hopefully mine goes just as smooth as this video looked like it did for you!! To be continued…. 😬🫣🤞