I have saved a few of these pack by beginning at the first cell of the fist of the two packs (C0-C11) I think, measuring each cell of that pack then charging each cell to 4.0v then progressing to the other pack following the same procedure until all cells maintain 4.0 volts. Otherwise, the balancing chip will not allow any charging to take pace if any one cell is below threshold voltage. Connection to Parallel cells have to be disconnected if charging a cell pair fails so that the defective cell is identified. Charging of all cells individually can be done at the cell connection marked on the board. 90% of the time the entire 40v pack can be returned to service after locating and replacing the defective cells. Usually this is only 2-4 cells that can cause the entire pack to appear dead with no response from the charger, as in the examples you showed here. Thanks!
That's what I was referring to when I mentioned in the past (4 or 5 years ago) I would replace cells and repair the pack (just as on several of my other videos with other brands) but as stated, mine did not last long before it failed again and many cells had the reduced capacity. Thanks for your comment!
You’ve got to open up the charging mosfet manually, either by shorting the gate from the discharge mosfet or manually applying voltage. It won’t charge otherwise until it gets over about 28 volts and the board decides the battery is good again.
Thanks for the video! all of your advanced diagnostics helped me realize that I couldn’t just rip it apart and add new cells, so I’m just gonna get another battery. Time saved is money saved. All the best to you and your repairs!
I will just say it, Ryobi should be handing out replacements. Sad how many of these are piled up and hopefully recycled. I just hope they updated the design or it will be short lived and right back where you started.
Just got off the phone Ryobi , and they're sending me a new 40 volt pack for my mower ( still under warranty). The original battery lasted a couple weeks short of two years. I have the old one to harvest...and experiment with. Harvesting the cells looks easier than I had thought it would be...
I bought a RYOBI 40 v mower in July 2019. First battery lasted 3 months; second lasted 1 month; the 3rd lasted 7 months. I have since learned they also have trouble with their motors and speed controllers (interface between battery pack and motor). Can’t believe they are selling a product with this much trouble.
I believe they have a major issue with their board design. I just picked up their new $179 brushless weedeater and after bout an hour of use it was sitting at 2 bars and at 35v. Now under normal circumstances with other batteries this would be half charge,however it seems they don't have their low voltage turn off on the batteries set at a tad above 30v,yet they have their chargers set to not charge below 30v.so the user could run the battery till it stops,then the charger won't charge because the voltage is below 30v. The user needs to understand this and not run the pack dead,plus not allow the batteries to sit idle for months at a time as the bcm will pull the charge down over time. Understanding this and working around it will prevent alot of battery issues.
Agreed - made the same mistake with my 40v battery using it until low voltage cut off and then couldn’t recharge. Next time will always recharge with one bar left to avoid problems.
Wow 4 years ago, I'm way behind. I just had the 4ah in my Ryobi chainsaw fail in a crazy way sort of. It shows two leds on charge level and if I put it in the charger it shows defective and then flashes all four leds. I reset it several times and it will go back to two leds each time. It actually shows 40 volts on the blades. I found cracks in the bottom of the case and it looks like one cell on the + end had moisture damage. It still runs the chain saw so I think I will try replacing that one cell after checking them all. Really hate the way they put it together. I bought a new 6ah battery today and had to get the Home Depot guy to unlock the case and escort me to the check out as if I were buying a gun! This world is going to hell faster and faster!
If the individual cells are shot, throw them out. BUT if not and all the cells show acceptable voltage, then the following tip WILL fix this problem... The battery has a sensor built in that if it gets down to a certain voltage it will stop your device. NOW... if you get the error light come on, all this means is that the voltage has dropped below its specified initial charging point, and the sensor IN THE CHARGER won't let it charge. SO, what you do is this: Forget the charger and get two little alligator clips and a DC transformer that outputs 40v @ 500-1000mA. Put the negative to negative and positive to positive and pump 500 - 1000mA direct into the battery for 30 minutes, THEN go put it onto the units charger and HEY PRESTO!!! It just errors because the voltage is too low and the charger doesn't know where to reference from so it errors out, and it won't charge. THIS WILL FIX IT and DON'T let it completely discharge! As soon as it blinks to ONE LED stop and charge. It's the charger NOT the battery. ...The battery shuts down at a certain point so the CHARGER can see the specified initial voltage AND mA to start its charge cycle. DONE!!! Happy days. ;)
I have an older style 5ah 40v pack that only shows 1 LED for charge. Put it on the charger and it immediately shows it as full charge, no red error LEDs. wonder if it has a similar problem. Any thoughts?
I have two batteries that accidentally got left out in a light rain shower last year and today I finally got around to opening them up. I was able to use contact cleaner, lightly brush the 3ah battery board, do the jumper reset and it is working again, for now at least. That one had the 4 flashing lights, but my 5ah OP40501 battery had no lights at all and when I opened it up the 2 capacitors in the center of the board were blown. Do you know where to get a board for the 5ah? All I could find on eBay were for every capacity but the 5ah. I haven't tried dismantling yet, but I'm hoping to be able to revive it. I was wondering about maybe just trying to replace the 2 capacitors, just to give it a go. Do I have any better options?
Those morons, design board deliberately, give more false fail, under "safety" pretends. They this regular consumer will have no brain to figure out details, and will be keep buying this overpriced crappy battery. Many manufactories start doing this b.s. , specially Samsung products = design to fail within certain time.
I’ve got two 40v packs that have good cell voltage but the mosfet won’t turn on to output unless I ground T1 or feed 3.3v to the fet manually. Any suggestions?
Could attempt to solder a ~50k resistor from the gate of the discharge FET to the gate of the charge FET to pull it high and attempt to revive it, assuming the micro doesn’t pull it low too powerfully. This idea is an (hopeful) improvement over just cutting the charging FET gate trace and soldering a resistor. This way you could revive the pack and then remove the resistor to allow Bms proper control. Have a few of the op4026 clunkers on order to try on and if all else, harvest :) Forgot to mention the charge FET is the one closer to you in the video and discharge is the one further away
If you're just wanting to get it to start charging to revive a deep discharged battery, you don't need to do anything to the mosfet. Just clip an alligator clamp to the positive terminal, and another to the screw next to that fuse, and touch the negative side. Use a constant current/constant voltage buck/boost converter to output between 37 and 40 volts limited to about 0.5 amps. That will apply a charge across the cells directly WITHOUT the charge controller having a say, and unfortunately, without cell balance circuitry. So just go until the pack reaches about 28-30 volts and then connect to the normal charger and see if it will take a charge then.
I agree. I have shown this in some other videos with other packs as well ( mostly all TTI packs). Of course I have done many of these 40V packs this way, but this video was about how for ME these packs have not been worth the effort. It's just too complicated of a BMS to be reliable and the on board protection that is so over designed is even the own pack demise when it in fact pulls the cells down a lot of the time. I do however get many good cells from these packs that people throw in the recycle bin etc. Thanks for sharing!
In my experience with 18650 cells it is really hard to kill these cells but a charge over 4.5v will definitely kill it, I used to use a USB charger with cut wires to charge to charge my cells it was all I had at the time, I'd charge for 5min then check voltage if it ever got over 4.5 volts it never came back, to discharge I had a small string of Christmas lights hooked up to a cell the cell would light the lights for a long period then just cut off with no problem ever changing back up. It sounds to me that the board is over changing to have that many dead cells definitely defective
I just now seen the comment you are replying to. Absolutely as I mentioned in many, many videos we never ever want to charge over 4.2V ever. I don't know where the 4.5V is even coming from in the comment and using a USB charger? I always try to mention to only use a CC and CV PS source and never charge over 4.2V. 🤔🙈
At least in the older 40 volt packs, the batteries are two sets of 5S2P cells in series for 10 cells in series to have 42 volts at full charge so an open in the cells would require TWO parallel cells to be defective. If it looks like an open, I would suspect a connection failure between the two packs or between one of the packs and the charge and sensor circuitry. You need the map of where the ends of the packs come to the PC board and where the taps on each pack (for checking the balance of the cells in that pack) come to the PC board. On the older batteries, the pack "ends" are the bigger terminals and the taps are the smaller terminals between them - as they are brought out from the plastic that surrounds the cells and their paralleling strips with tap terminals. Those are part of what makes harvesting the cells difficult - the plastic totally surrounds the terminals and you must cut through a lot to separate the cells from the plastic, even if you're not separating the cells. At the moment, I'm looking to isolate a 3S2P group of good cells for use in an ancient hand vacuum that originally used NiCd batteries. I have a 3S BMS (rated at 30 amps) to use with that group of cells.
Indeed, I have desoldered and repaired many of them in the past. I used to have a diagram of the cell layout over 8-10 years ago. They are easy to follow how the cells are laid out, just time consuming to take apart and repair and the packs are so problematic it seems like I would have to go back into them again not too long after for a different issue. So for me I simply started using (2) 20V packs in series to run the equipment I had until I bought my EGO 56V equipment. I ran the trimmer and edger for over 2 years with the (2) Makita packs with no issues whatsoever. I have some repair videos on the EGO 56V packs as well. I have worked on many battery packs over the years and have videos on a lot of them, but I kept getting asked about the Ryobi 40V packs a lot so this video was basically my response to many questions about them and I tried to answer why I stopped working on them for the most part. Best of luck to you with the Ni-Cd pack. Those were the cells I first started working on for sure.
Great video, ratings on the samsung and LG batteries are the same except the samsung have a 3C (4000mah) maximum discharge rating and the newer LG batteries have a 11.5 C (15000 mah) maximum discharge rating.
I have the even newer battery and it still went bad after 6 months! 1st green light glowing, 2nd no green light showing, 3rd green light glowing, 4th no green light showing. Blinks red/green on charger.
Wow, that's crazy. I sure hate to hear the newer style packs are failing as well. Warranty claim it is! I truly feel that Ryobi's 40V platform is so bad that it may need to be totally abandoned and redesigned. There are so many tools out there I know that's why they don't do it. If they cannot get the packs to be dependable it's better to abandon the line. That sounds bad, but we will come up with adapters etc. Even like I have shown in this video and the latest 40V mower repair video. We can make adapters even if the Ryobi new platform is better we can make adapters for those, but this current 40V needs to be trashed. Air flow is not good in the pack design, the higher the capacity of the pack in those tight bricks with no space is a death sentence. On top of that the Mosfets and overcomplicated BMS board is another death sentence. They make their tools cheap and dumb with no smarts to cut off based on battery voltage and they make the pack overcomplicated and expensive. I hope the new Skil 40V stuff holds up well, they seem to be better designed and from Chervon the makers of EGO so hopefully it does well, they don't have the platform the Ryobi does unfortunately. Ryobi has so many tools for their line which is why it is so popular. I kinda feel bad for everyone who buys into the Ryobi 40V line, they got me over 8 years ago...
@@ThriftyToolShed the 4 led light flashes green 4 times I meant. When I connect my booster charger to it, it doesn't read any current also. Is it in sleep mode you think?
I apologize, I was commenting on some videos, and I thought this was the EGO pack video comment. I had answers some of those. Disregard my last comments, I will delete them as not to cause confusion for someone else.
@@ThriftyToolShed This is Quang Yung post, but I guess I'll start here and ask the same question. On the newer (updated) Ryobi 40v battery, I am having the same issue with 4 led flashing with the fuel gauge button is pressed. It is a 4ah Ryobi 40v battery and is considered "defective" on the charger. When measuring it with my multi-meter, it reads at 39v and the voltage will gradually reduce or drop. I, myself also harvest 18650 cells, including 21700 cells as well. I can solder/desolder and spot weld as well because I have a machine. Aside of that, it looks like the issue is occurring from the BMS PCB and not from the cells condition. I'm not sure if the issue is related to a pcb component/components. Any help on this issue would be great!
Although Li-ion does better than many other varieties at lower temperature, I still would tend to agree that it is best not to keep them in cold. I think most cell manufactures state not to charge the cells at or below freezing as well. I actually live in the southern US and we don't get really cold weather, but I still don't like my packs to be stored out in the cold.
For me, they work fine. I use 4 packs in parallel, they run cold. The seal is good for the rain. They only heat up when I recharge them. I should build a slower charger.
I have a couple of RYOBI 40V tools, and just lost two battery packs. I think It's due to a GFI outlet connected to the charger tripping, and then the BMS draw allowing the battery packs to discharge. I don't want to chuck these Ryobi blowers, what should I do about replacement packs?
I truly had the best luck running my 40v Ryobi stuff from two 18v or 20v packs in series. I did have some minor luck boosting the packs back up to charge and I did go through all the trouble to replace some bad cells but ultimately it was a constant fight to keep packs that would last for any length of time. So once I configured the 2 series Makita packs, I had no more issues...
I have a couple Makita BL1830B 18V batteries (3Ahr) (and charger), and I have a dead Ryobi OP40401, a soldering iron and a 3D printer. I just don’t have legitimate skills, and I wish you lived down the street from me!
@@davidelmer4302 , I would sure help! It is not hard because I bought some already made adapters for the makita and simple added slide on terminals (crimp style) and wired it series, to make it easier though I did use the connector from the old 40v pack, so it would slide in and connect!
As far as warranty that is correct, but as mentioned in the video EGO had already sent my replacement of course so this is the bad one EGO let me keep. Just so you know also Home Depot is no longer a EGO dealer. Lowes and Ace has them now along with a few others.
Sorry, I had lots of comments on my EGO 56V packs and I copied this answer to your Ryobi question by mistake. (Wrong video, lol...) Thanks for your information!
The self discharge of these 40V packs is rather poor & they often get left unused for many months draining to zero. Then the protection sytem blocks normal charging. Perhaps an isolation switch on each pack could stop that problem.
The couple I had just like the ones you are taking apart. I found the batteries would not take a charge anymore. The batteries were total junk on both of the packs I had. Very informative video.
How is Ryobi getting away with labeling that as a 3Ah battery (108Wh) when the cells are only rated for 1300mAh? That's 2.6Ah (96Wh at 3.68v per cell rated voltage).
It's been a while since this video, but many manufacturers use the full battery voltage when calculating the Wh such as 4.15vx10x2.6ah=108Wh. The same with pack voltage. Some call 14S packs 56V like EGO and some call 14S 58V like the older ECHO. The new ECHO platform calls it 56V also... Some 5S packs are called 18V and many are considered 20V Max etc. Yeah, it should be the nominal voltage used in true calculations and yet I will agree the max voltage is a good thing to label things since it does matter what the max voltage will be in most cases. It's better to know that a 10S pack could be up to 42V when fully charged than marking it a 36V pack for nominal rating.
Hi Bob, Thanks for letting me know. This is a very good 0-30V for the price... amzn.to/3Pc0hP0 The 0-60V will cost more, but are handy for the 56V packs etc.... amzn.to/3EB6lvw If you are looking for a 18650 cell charger, this is one like I use... amzn.to/44SDuO6
Hello, I have a 40v pack from 2013 with samsung cell in it and measures 42.2v between CL1- & BAT+ terminals. Also I measured CL1- & CL5+ and got 20.5v also CL6 - & CL10+ is giving 21.7v. But actual terminal + & - from the pack is only giving me 20.5v. Btw, Pack charges good and been sitting for a week. Is there anything I can do to revive it? Final note, the tool runs for about a minute or two and dies with battery light still on with 3 green dots and 20v. Thank you
Almost same with mine, CL1- & CL5+ and got 20.6v, CL6 - & CL10+ is giving 20.9v, Cl1- to Term + is 41.5v, however terminal + & - gives 18.8. Tried all type of reset (RST to 3.3, RST to GND) with no luck. Tried to draw 40V from CL1- and Bat+ to charge another battery and it did work pretty well. All cells a withing .05 v range.
I have a 40v battery, the charger says its defective and the 4 lights on front flashes. The battery reads 36v on the + and - terminals and the same on the cap inside. What do you think is wrong with it? I have a new one coming, but was wondering if I could save this one, if not I will keep it and use the cells in my laser and flash light. Thanks
IM INTERESTED in the point you made about saving the charger plate and adapt to a duo makita 20v battery to use at you trimer, question is, can you fab a more commercial version and sell it? i think there will be a lot of buyers, like me.
Dude. On that newer pack, that negative battery cell connection on the lower right of the screen... Hook up 30 volts or so with a current limited supply to like half an amp... Put the positive on the positive terminal. Let it run until the current starts to drop down to about 1/3 of an amp or so, and then throw it on the real charger. It'll fully recover the entire pack. You don't even have to take the thing completely open. You unscrew the bottom tip it up so you don't have to undo the sticker, clip onto the board on the corner for the negative and clip over the positive terminal. No reason to take this thing completely apart unless you're harvesting cells.
Dude, that is what I am doing, I am harvesting cells as mentioned. I simply was taking time to do a video I was asked to post. I mentioned many times that I recovered many of these packs and they were a constant problems (and I mean dozens of packs) I have many repair videos of lots of packs! As mentioned this video was asked for as I mentioned several times the absolute best way I ran my 40V tools was with the two 20v packs in series because the 40v batteries are not designed well. I also do not show many times in my videos boosting packs because as mentioned in many of my reoairs, you should not boost without looking at the physical condition of the cells, you want to see why? Watch the video I did on the kobalt 40V pack that I posted. DO NOT boost packs without knowing what you are putting Voltage accross!
@@ThriftyToolShedhi there, sorry to bother you, I'm a novice at best..... If I connect 40v to the positive battery terminal would I simply connect the negative to the bottom left cell (battery right hand side)? Would this charge the whole pack? Both sides in parallel??? I just need to jump start it and bypass the BMS then charge with the original when it reaches minimum charging voltage ... I would really appreciate a little advice . These batteries are a fortune to replace.... Cheaper to get a petrol lawnmower lol
hello, i was wondering what a better way to take apart the newer battery you show in video because i have one but the output is still showing 40v. i feel if i spit the board in half it might fry something. should i try to desolder the positive first? that are in the middle. then do the negative? i was going to try to cut the negative first since it on the outside of the battery and is the easiest. but i feel like it might fry something.
It is always a risk with battery packs for sure. The best way to do the ones like in the video to me was to de-solder them. I would use low temp. Solder and add some into the connections for the cells sections. It will take a large 150W iron or higher to get the job done easily and either de-solder wick de-solder pump to clean joints well and the board should lift off. Back when I used to repair some of these packs that is how I did it. I really did not care which ones I de-soldered first, I just got them all de-soldered, cleaned and gently lift board off of terminals while still applying heat also. Of course being careful not to let the iron or any other tool come across more than one terminal at a time. Best of luck to ya!
morning sir got a stupid question for you. i have the ryobi op40504 and the lights are flashing and will not stop. i tried to jump reset and gnd but still flashing. now this battery has 2 rows of jumps first set reads gnd 3.3v res dio clk second set reads gnd 3.3v res isp tx rx anybody have an idea?
Not a stupid question at all. I have not worked on this model myself. It seems from what you are describing that it may have 2 Microcontrollers? If it has 2 headers. Jumping the Reset on both is one of the things I would try, the only other thing I can think to mention without experience with them myself is look for any corrosion especially around the microcontroller pins and maybe try some plastic safe and non-conductive electronics cleaner and clean the board well. That's all I would know to try. May really be a microcontroller problem?
@@ThriftyToolShed well thank you sir. I did try jumping one at a time the 2 sets of jumps but I think I will try to jump both 1 set then the other set and see if with both jumpers in place that might reset. The board looks ok except all the heat evidence by the fuel switch and the mofsets. Again thank you I do appreciate you opinion.
I see. Yes I think one at a time like you did should be fine. Sorry for the confusion. I simply meant to make sure you did do a reset on both, but I did not mean the same time. Other than the board cleaning, I would not know any other trick. If you have not seen it, check out the Ridgid pack repair I have, it was strange how cleaning the board fixed it even though I had no sign of corrosion like usual. Best of luck to ya! ruclips.net/video/lpjdJCqBsTU/видео.html
I have same batterise they don't work. When I measure them, the voltage keep moving down. I don't understand what's that means. Can you explain it for me? Thank you in advance.
In your case, if you're measuring the voltage from the + and - terminals, you're reading the voltage across the capacitor. It's likely that a bad cell in your battery is leaving an open circuit through the DC portion of the battery. The capacitor is connected in parallel to the cells (and MOSFETs) and is still a circuit. When you put the battery on the charger, it will charge the capacitor (because the circuit is closed) but not the cells (because the circuit is open). Normally, closing the circuit in a capacitor will allow an almost instant discharge of the charge built up in the capacitor, but your ohmeter has a huge resistor built in that limits the current of the discharging capacitor. What you are seeing with the voltage starting at a relative high and dropping is the slow discharge of the capacitor with the voltage difference between the positive and negative terminals of the capacitor going towards 0 as the capacitor discharges.
I have not had that happen on the 40Vpacks. I originally thought these 3 packs were going to have some, but not even one! That good to know. Thanks for your comment!
Hi, These are the Fluke TL910 leads and they are expensive. I really like them for SMD testing, they are really handy. I actually bought these used with a Fluke 179 meter years ago. This is a similar set I believe? amzn.to/3LCcDgU
EBay also has some at times cheaper, but hit or miss like these for example... www.ebay.com/itm/New-FLUKE-TL910-Electronic-Test-Probes-/234405778020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Thanks for the really informative video on these! Looking at my OP40401 board, it looks like they use TP designations for the individual (paralled) battery connections rather than the CL designation you and others refer too which may be the older 40v board? Can you point out the stepped connection points & sequence for individual testing, maybe a marked up pic?
Hey there, love the video. Do you have a video on rebuilding both the old and new style Ryobi 40v batteries? Having an issue with a 5Ah battery that only charges to two bars max. Thinking I may need to take each cell out and manually charge them but not 100% sure on the fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for your comment! I do not have any video on the 40V Ryobi packs. I never had great success with the BMS board that TTI surely over complicated for some reason. It's problematic and even though I had a little luck replaced cells in some and a few the microcontroller reset helped get it back going. A few ofthers I actually had bad MOSFETs for the output of the pack faulty. In the end I did not have the best results for my efforts and most repairs were short lived. I had the best luck running my Ryobi 40V stuff with my (2) 18V Makita packs in series and never had an issue, just more aggregating to deal with as a battery holder. This worked until I was able to switch over to the EGO 56V platform. No looking back on that one. If you do find some cells low 9n your pack, maybe charging them up and getting all 20 cells balanced could possibly get some more life from your pack. Best of luck to you on yours!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Didn't watch the entire video, but there is a RESET pin on the board labeled RST. All you need to do is charge up the + and _ using 35v at 2amps for about 20 hours. Then, short circuit the RST pins on the board. The battery will work again! Watch the video from 'Gears and Tech'.! Save yourself hours of time and crazy amounts of money on these 40V Ryobi batteries. None of the work some of the guys in the comments below is necessary. You DO NOT need to balance each individual cel. All it needs is a reset but the pack needs power (35v) before you can do that! If that fails, then yes, you have a bad cel.
Thanks for the video. I have had some troubles with my 40v batteries. 2 out of 3 are Ryobi and 3rd is a third party. 5 out of 6 of my One+ 18v batteries are bad. All 18v are Ryobi. I stayed with Ryobi since they worked well in the first couple of years. I like cordless tools. What would you recommend? Fix and stay with Ryobi or what manufacture would you go with? Thanks I enjoy your channel.
Yeah, I have had more issue with Ryobi packs than any others by far. I would say if I still had 40V Ryobi stuff, I would use a work around. Either the two 20V packs like I did to get by or maybe even look into the new SKIL 40V platform. I have not tried these myself, but I am interested because they are made by Chervon the same people that makes EGO 56V equipment. I bet these batteries are really good. I would even see if I could use them with my existing Ryobi 40V honestly. Make an adapter if I have to. As far as the 18v packs, they hold up pretty good, but I will repair what I have now but will not buy any more. they are more expensive thanbthe M18 and DeWalt packs, because of the extra protection on board like mosfets to cut the pack off. I did a video showing an adapter from DeWalt or M18 to Ryobi and I will just use these with my higher quality M18 or DeWalt packs. The only downside to the adapter is it has no undervoltage or over temp protection this way. You have to realize when the tool is starting to slow down some, go ahead and charge the pack before you pull it to far down. No big deal at all. Thanks Brent for your Comment...
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the quick reply. Funny that most of my trouble is with the 18v packs. I have a few 40v tools like mower, trimmer, pole saw. My 18v list is trimmer, saws all, leaf blower, light, skill saw. I have been using the mower many times a mowing. Recharge times are when I work on other things. Anyway, the 40v has been tasked a lot more than the 18v. I wish EGO was out before I got this invested with Ryobi but as I said, I didn’t have many problems then. You have inspired me to measure the battery cells of my bad modules. Oh, by the way, I am glad Hurricane Laura decided to not head into Texas. Cheers!
@@brentjohnson6654 Interesting about the 18V packs, but I will say to your point, every single time I go to Home Depot and peek into there battery recycle bin I see lots of the smaller Ryobi 18V packs. Like the 2ah etc. Seems they do fail alot. As far as the storm goes, I bet! Stay safe....
Well there are many places. I DigiKey, mouser, Newark are just a few and are best for selection and ordering in bulk.If you just want one or two of an item I always search eBay or sometimes even Amazon! Shipping is much better... See example links in the descriptions in some my repair videos for example: ruclips.net/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/видео.html
Ryobi 40V Lithium cells are junk, so much so I recently sold all my Ryobi power tools at a yard sale minus their dead/defective batteries for cents on the dollar. I must have gotten just twelve charges from each one. The cells ended up in the Home Depot recycle trashcan. I've had so many issues with all their Lithium cells for nearly 15 years, from 18V to 40V... so I've finally had enough! Bye bye Ryobi...
This seems to be designed to motivate people to DESTROY THEIR TOYS Reading some of the suggestions makes me think YOU ARE ALL TROLLS TRYING TO TRICK PEOPLE K DESTROYING YOUR HARD EARNED PROPERTY
I believe it is way more with the heat build up of the cell being packed together with terrible cooling design actually causing issues. It may help to run them less time of course as you mentioned not down below 2 bars. As far as 18650 cells go it is fine to go from 4V down to 2.8V with no issues. I usually perform capacity tests from 4.2 down to 2.7V with no issues. I don't think it is as much of an issue using less than half the capacity of the pack every time as it is the thermal dissipation especially in the center of the larger packs. I believe the only way to fix the Ryobi 40V packs is a complete redesign or as an immediate work around is maybe using very high end 21700 cells say 4000mah and only having 1P 10S design so you don't have so many cells packed as tight as they can possible fit together. For most people using half a pack's capacity is not even close to a solution really. For example, a 2ah pack in the blower would last no time. You are turning 2ah into nearly 1ah packs and 4ah into nearly 2ah packs....
I have saved a few of these pack by beginning at the first cell of the fist of the two packs (C0-C11) I think, measuring each cell of that pack then charging each cell to 4.0v then progressing to the other pack following the same procedure until all cells maintain 4.0 volts. Otherwise, the balancing chip will not allow any charging to take pace if any one cell is below threshold voltage. Connection to Parallel cells have to be disconnected if charging a cell pair fails so that the defective cell is identified. Charging of all cells individually can be done at the cell connection marked on the board. 90% of the time the entire 40v pack can be returned to service after locating and replacing the defective cells. Usually this is only 2-4 cells that can cause the entire pack to appear dead with no response from the charger, as in the examples you showed here. Thanks!
That's what I was referring to when I mentioned in the past (4 or 5 years ago) I would replace cells and repair the pack (just as on several of my other videos with other brands) but as stated, mine did not last long before it failed again and many cells had the reduced capacity. Thanks for your comment!
hey Jerry B can you make a video
You’ve got to open up the charging mosfet manually, either by shorting the gate from the discharge mosfet or manually applying voltage. It won’t charge otherwise until it gets over about 28 volts and the board decides the battery is good again.
Wish you do a video, you are more knowledgeable than most of us, thanks
.me puedes decir cómo hacer que encienda la luz de carga,porque yo le pongo tierra física y si funciona pero no enciende la luz de carga
Thanks for the video! all of your advanced diagnostics helped me realize that I couldn’t just rip it apart and add new cells, so I’m just gonna get another battery. Time saved is money saved. All the best to you and your repairs!
Hope you called Ryobi they're giving out free battery replacements! Just got mine no problem no receipt or hassle
@@roodick85 I’ve moved on passed Ryobi. Between battery capabilities and customer service, I’m good many other options out there.
I will just say it, Ryobi should be handing out replacements. Sad how many of these are piled up and hopefully recycled. I just hope they updated the design or it will be short lived and right back where you started.
@@ThriftyToolShed I think I have taken back three so far. I have a couple of 7.5AH units that are becoming iffy.
Just got off the phone Ryobi , and they're sending me a new 40 volt pack for my mower ( still under warranty). The original battery lasted a couple weeks short of two years.
I have the old one to harvest...and experiment with. Harvesting the cells looks easier than I had thought it would be...
I bought a RYOBI 40 v mower in July 2019. First battery lasted 3 months; second lasted 1 month; the 3rd lasted 7 months. I have since learned they also have trouble with their motors and speed controllers (interface between battery pack and motor). Can’t believe they are selling a product with this much trouble.
I believe they have a major issue with their board design. I just picked up their new $179 brushless weedeater and after bout an hour of use it was sitting at 2 bars and at 35v. Now under normal circumstances with other batteries this would be half charge,however it seems they don't have their low voltage turn off on the batteries set at a tad above 30v,yet they have their chargers set to not charge below 30v.so the user could run the battery till it stops,then the charger won't charge because the voltage is below 30v.
The user needs to understand this and not run the pack dead,plus not allow the batteries to sit idle for months at a time as the bcm will pull the charge down over time.
Understanding this and working around it will prevent alot of battery issues.
That's good to know, thanks for your comment!
Agreed - made the same mistake with my 40v battery using it until low voltage cut off and then couldn’t recharge. Next time will always recharge with one bar left to avoid problems.
After about taking apart 10 packs; I find all of them have more than 50% cells at 0 volts. Most don't hold over 3.5volts. so disappointing.
Wow 4 years ago, I'm way behind. I just had the 4ah in my Ryobi chainsaw fail in a crazy way sort of. It shows two leds on charge level and if I put it in the charger it shows defective and then flashes all four leds. I reset it several times and it will go back to two leds each time. It actually shows 40 volts on the blades. I found cracks in the bottom of the case and it looks like one cell on the + end had moisture damage. It still runs the chain saw so I think I will try replacing that one cell after checking them all. Really hate the way they put it together. I bought a new 6ah battery today and had to get the Home Depot guy to unlock the case and escort me to the check out as if I were buying a gun! This world is going to hell faster and faster!
Worked in 5 mins. Thank you sir.
If the individual cells are shot, throw them out. BUT if not and all the cells show acceptable voltage, then the following tip WILL fix this problem... The battery has a sensor built in that if it gets down to a certain voltage it will stop your device. NOW... if you get the error light come on, all this means is that the voltage has dropped below its specified initial charging point, and the sensor IN THE CHARGER won't let it charge. SO, what you do is this: Forget the charger and get two little alligator clips and a DC transformer that outputs 40v @ 500-1000mA. Put the negative to negative and positive to positive and pump 500 - 1000mA direct into the battery for 30 minutes, THEN go put it onto the units charger and HEY PRESTO!!! It just errors because the voltage is too low and the charger doesn't know where to reference from so it errors out, and it won't charge. THIS WILL FIX IT and DON'T let it completely discharge! As soon as it blinks to ONE LED stop and charge. It's the charger NOT the battery. ...The battery shuts down at a certain point so the CHARGER can see the specified initial voltage AND mA to start its charge cycle. DONE!!! Happy days. ;)
Man, that red pack does look like a bomb.
I have an older style 5ah 40v pack that only shows 1 LED for charge. Put it on the charger and it immediately shows it as full charge, no red error LEDs. wonder if it has a similar problem. Any thoughts?
Try jumping in the reset holes while pushing test button
I have two batteries that accidentally got left out in a light rain shower last year and today I finally got around to opening them up. I was able to use contact cleaner, lightly brush the 3ah battery board, do the jumper reset and it is working again, for now at least. That one had the 4 flashing lights, but my 5ah OP40501 battery had no lights at all and when I opened it up the 2 capacitors in the center of the board were blown. Do you know where to get a board for the 5ah? All I could find on eBay were for every capacity but the 5ah. I haven't tried dismantling yet, but I'm hoping to be able to revive it. I was wondering about maybe just trying to replace the 2 capacitors, just to give it a go. Do I have any better options?
Question :It appears design of board is driven by profits not by manufacturing efficiency.
Bad for consumer!
True or false??
Those morons, design board deliberately, give more false fail, under "safety" pretends. They this regular consumer will have no brain to figure out details, and will be keep buying this overpriced crappy battery. Many manufactories start doing this b.s. , specially Samsung products = design to fail within certain time.
I’ve got two 40v packs that have good cell voltage but the mosfet won’t turn on to output unless I ground T1 or feed 3.3v to the fet manually. Any suggestions?
Could attempt to solder a ~50k resistor from the gate of the discharge FET to the gate of the charge FET to pull it high and attempt to revive it, assuming the micro doesn’t pull it low too powerfully. This idea is an (hopeful) improvement over just cutting the charging FET gate trace and soldering a resistor. This way you could revive the pack and then remove the resistor to allow Bms proper control. Have a few of the op4026 clunkers on order to try on and if all else, harvest :)
Forgot to mention the charge FET is the one closer to you in the video and discharge is the one further away
Thanks for the information.
Sam Johnson YES! The board is the reason the pack won’t accept charge at the terminal. That charging FET is shut down.
If you're just wanting to get it to start charging to revive a deep discharged battery, you don't need to do anything to the mosfet. Just clip an alligator clamp to the positive terminal, and another to the screw next to that fuse, and touch the negative side. Use a constant current/constant voltage buck/boost converter to output between 37 and 40 volts limited to about 0.5 amps. That will apply a charge across the cells directly WITHOUT the charge controller having a say, and unfortunately, without cell balance circuitry. So just go until the pack reaches about 28-30 volts and then connect to the normal charger and see if it will take a charge then.
I agree. I have shown this in some other videos with other packs as well ( mostly all TTI packs). Of course I have done many of these 40V packs this way, but this video was about how for ME these packs have not been worth the effort. It's just too complicated of a BMS to be reliable and the on board protection that is so over designed is even the own pack demise when it in fact pulls the cells down a lot of the time. I do however get many good cells from these packs that people throw in the recycle bin etc. Thanks for sharing!
In my experience with 18650 cells it is really hard to kill these cells but a charge over 4.5v will definitely kill it, I used to use a USB charger with cut wires to charge to charge my cells it was all I had at the time, I'd charge for 5min then check voltage if it ever got over 4.5 volts it never came back, to discharge I had a small string of Christmas lights hooked up to a cell the cell would light the lights for a long period then just cut off with no problem ever changing back up. It sounds to me that the board is over changing to have that many dead cells definitely defective
Why would i take advice from someone who has apparently no concept of safety or intention of keeping electronics in a working condition?
I just now seen the comment you are replying to. Absolutely as I mentioned in many, many videos we never ever want to charge over 4.2V ever. I don't know where the 4.5V is even coming from in the comment and using a USB charger? I always try to mention to only use a CC and CV PS source and never charge over 4.2V. 🤔🙈
At least in the older 40 volt packs, the batteries are two sets of 5S2P cells in series for 10 cells in series to have 42 volts at full charge so an open in the cells would require TWO parallel cells to be defective. If it looks like an open, I would suspect a connection failure between the two packs or between one of the packs and the charge and sensor circuitry. You need the map of where the ends of the packs come to the PC board and where the taps on each pack (for checking the balance of the cells in that pack) come to the PC board. On the older batteries, the pack "ends" are the bigger terminals and the taps are the smaller terminals between them - as they are brought out from the plastic that surrounds the cells and their paralleling strips with tap terminals. Those are part of what makes harvesting the cells difficult - the plastic totally surrounds the terminals and you must cut through a lot to separate the cells from the plastic, even if you're not separating the cells.
At the moment, I'm looking to isolate a 3S2P group of good cells for use in an ancient hand vacuum that originally used NiCd batteries. I have a 3S BMS (rated at 30 amps) to use with that group of cells.
Indeed, I have desoldered and repaired many of them in the past. I used to have a diagram of the cell layout over 8-10 years ago. They are easy to follow how the cells are laid out, just time consuming to take apart and repair and the packs are so problematic it seems like I would have to go back into them again not too long after for a different issue. So for me I simply started using (2) 20V packs in series to run the equipment I had until I bought my EGO 56V equipment. I ran the trimmer and edger for over 2 years with the (2) Makita packs with no issues whatsoever. I have some repair videos on the EGO 56V packs as well. I have worked on many battery packs over the years and have videos on a lot of them, but I kept getting asked about the Ryobi 40V packs a lot so this video was basically my response to many questions about them and I tried to answer why I stopped working on them for the most part. Best of luck to you with the Ni-Cd pack. Those were the cells I first started working on for sure.
Happy New Year! Lolz you posted this right on the new year mark 👍
Happy New Year!
Great video, ratings on the samsung and LG batteries are the same except the samsung have a 3C (4000mah) maximum discharge rating and the newer LG batteries have a 11.5 C (15000 mah) maximum discharge rating.
What's crews did you use
I have the even newer battery and it still went bad after 6 months! 1st green light glowing, 2nd no green light showing, 3rd green light glowing, 4th no green light showing. Blinks red/green on charger.
Wow, that's crazy. I sure hate to hear the newer style packs are failing as well. Warranty claim it is!
I truly feel that Ryobi's 40V platform is so bad that it may need to be totally abandoned and redesigned. There are so many tools out there I know that's why they don't do it. If they cannot get the packs to be dependable it's better to abandon the line. That sounds bad, but we will come up with adapters etc. Even like I have shown in this video and the latest 40V mower repair video. We can make adapters even if the Ryobi new platform is better we can make adapters for those, but this current 40V needs to be trashed. Air flow is not good in the pack design, the higher the capacity of the pack in those tight bricks with no space is a death sentence. On top of that the Mosfets and overcomplicated BMS board is another death sentence. They make their tools cheap and dumb with no smarts to cut off based on battery voltage and they make the pack overcomplicated and expensive. I hope the new Skil 40V stuff holds up well, they seem to be better designed and from Chervon the makers of EGO so hopefully it does well, they don't have the platform the Ryobi does unfortunately. Ryobi has so many tools for their line which is why it is so popular. I kinda feel bad for everyone who buys into the Ryobi 40V line, they got me over 8 years ago...
I push the power level button on the battery and it flakes all 4 light flashes 4 times. What does that mean? Defective?
@@ThriftyToolShed the 4 led light flashes green 4 times I meant. When I connect my booster charger to it, it doesn't read any current also. Is it in sleep mode you think?
I apologize, I was commenting on some videos, and I thought this was the EGO pack video comment. I had answers some of those. Disregard my last comments, I will delete them as not to cause confusion for someone else.
@@quangyung6751
I would check Voltage at terminals and check if it charged ok?
@@ThriftyToolShed This is Quang Yung post, but I guess I'll start here and ask the same question. On the newer (updated) Ryobi 40v battery, I am having the same issue with 4 led flashing with the fuel gauge button is pressed. It is a 4ah Ryobi 40v battery and is considered "defective" on the charger. When measuring it with my multi-meter, it reads at 39v and the voltage will gradually reduce or drop. I, myself also harvest 18650 cells, including 21700 cells as well. I can solder/desolder and spot weld as well because I have a machine. Aside of that, it looks like the issue is occurring from the BMS PCB and not from the cells condition. I'm not sure if the issue is related to a pcb component/components. Any help on this issue would be great!
I was told if you keep them out
Of the cold thet'l last you
A longtime. I never have that trouble
With any of my powertool Batterys
Although Li-ion does better than many other varieties at lower temperature, I still would tend to agree that it is best not to keep them in cold. I think most cell manufactures state not to charge the cells at or below freezing as well. I actually live in the southern US and we don't get really cold weather, but I still don't like my packs to be stored out in the cold.
Where do you live?
Tennessee.
Kentucky
Alabama
Georga
@@ThriftyToolShed I live in minnesota
GEORGIA
For me, they work fine. I use 4 packs in parallel, they run cold. The seal is good for the rain. They only heat up when I recharge them. I should build a slower charger.
I have a couple of RYOBI 40V tools, and just lost two battery packs. I think It's due to a GFI outlet connected to the charger tripping, and then the BMS draw allowing the battery packs to discharge. I don't want to chuck these Ryobi blowers, what should I do about replacement packs?
I truly had the best luck running my 40v Ryobi stuff from two 18v or 20v packs in series. I did have some minor luck boosting the packs back up to charge and I did go through all the trouble to replace some bad cells but ultimately it was a constant fight to keep packs that would last for any length of time. So once I configured the 2 series Makita packs, I had no more issues...
I have a couple Makita BL1830B 18V batteries (3Ahr) (and charger), and I have a dead Ryobi OP40401, a soldering iron and a 3D printer. I just don’t have legitimate skills, and I wish you lived down the street from me!
@@davidelmer4302 , I would sure help! It is not hard because I bought some already made adapters for the makita and simple added slide on terminals (crimp style) and wired it series, to make it easier though I did use the connector from the old 40v pack, so it would slide in and connect!
Home Depot told me if you have problems with the batters or the device to bring it back and they would give you a new one.... no questions asked.
As far as warranty that is correct, but as mentioned in the video EGO had already sent my replacement of course so this is the bad one EGO let me keep. Just so you know also Home Depot is no longer a EGO dealer. Lowes and Ace has them now along with a few others.
@@ThriftyToolShed That's good to know.... Thanks
Sorry, I had lots of comments on my EGO 56V packs and I copied this answer to your Ryobi question by mistake. (Wrong video, lol...)
Thanks for your information!
The self discharge of these 40V packs is rather poor & they often get left unused for many months draining to zero. Then the protection sytem blocks normal charging. Perhaps an isolation switch on each pack could stop that problem.
The couple I had just like the ones you are taking apart. I found the batteries would not take a charge anymore. The batteries were total junk on both of the packs I had. Very informative video.
Happy New Year!
Happy New Year!
How old were these packs before they had issues
Some less than a year some several years old.
How is Ryobi getting away with labeling that as a 3Ah battery (108Wh) when the cells are only rated for 1300mAh? That's 2.6Ah (96Wh at 3.68v per cell rated voltage).
It's been a while since this video, but many manufacturers use the full battery voltage when calculating the Wh such as 4.15vx10x2.6ah=108Wh. The same with pack voltage. Some call 14S packs 56V like EGO and some call 14S 58V like the older ECHO. The new ECHO platform calls it 56V also...
Some 5S packs are called 18V and many are considered 20V Max etc.
Yeah, it should be the nominal voltage used in true calculations and yet I will agree the max voltage is a good thing to label things since it does matter what the max voltage will be in most cases. It's better to know that a 10S pack could be up to 42V when fully charged than marking it a 36V pack for nominal rating.
excellent!! you are a very good teacher!!!
Thank you for your kind comment!
I couldn’t find a AC to dc power supply on your list to give you credit? I also want a battery charger to bring up dead batteries and test.
Hi Bob,
Thanks for letting me know.
This is a very good 0-30V for the price...
amzn.to/3Pc0hP0
The 0-60V will cost more, but are handy for the 56V packs etc....
amzn.to/3EB6lvw
If you are looking for a 18650 cell charger, this is one like I use...
amzn.to/44SDuO6
Hello,
I have a 40v pack from 2013 with samsung cell in it and measures 42.2v between CL1- & BAT+ terminals. Also I measured CL1- & CL5+ and got 20.5v also CL6 - & CL10+ is giving 21.7v. But actual terminal + & - from the pack is only giving me 20.5v. Btw, Pack charges good and been sitting for a week. Is there anything I can do to revive it? Final note, the tool runs for about a minute or two and dies with battery light still on with 3 green dots and 20v.
Thank you
Almost same with mine, CL1- & CL5+ and got 20.6v, CL6 - & CL10+ is giving 20.9v, Cl1- to Term + is 41.5v, however terminal + & - gives 18.8. Tried all type of reset (RST to 3.3, RST to GND) with no luck. Tried to draw 40V from CL1- and Bat+ to charge another battery and it did work pretty well. All cells a withing .05 v range.
I have a 40v battery, the charger says its defective and the 4 lights on front flashes. The battery reads 36v on the + and - terminals and the same on the cap inside. What do you think is wrong with it? I have a new one coming, but was wondering if I could save this one, if not I will keep it and use the cells in my laser and flash light. Thanks
It's possibly the BMS board or thermistor on the board, that is assuming you know that the charger is charging other batteries fine correct?
@@ThriftyToolShed the charger is charging other batteries fine.
You can buy a BMS and keep those cells in place then use the batteries on whatever project you have going
Very true!
Now, when I wached your video again, yours also moving down when you were measuring in the beginning of video. Now I am very confused. Please help.
You maybe talking about when the capacitor was charging up and then dropping back off?
IM INTERESTED in the point you made about saving the charger plate and adapt to a duo makita 20v battery to use at you trimer, question is, can you fab a more commercial version and sell it? i think there will be a lot of buyers, like me.
Dude. On that newer pack, that negative battery cell connection on the lower right of the screen... Hook up 30 volts or so with a current limited supply to like half an amp... Put the positive on the positive terminal.
Let it run until the current starts to drop down to about 1/3 of an amp or so, and then throw it on the real charger.
It'll fully recover the entire pack.
You don't even have to take the thing completely open. You unscrew the bottom tip it up so you don't have to undo the sticker, clip onto the board on the corner for the negative and clip over the positive terminal.
No reason to take this thing completely apart unless you're harvesting cells.
Dude, that is what I am doing, I am harvesting cells as mentioned. I simply was taking time to do a video I was asked to post. I mentioned many times that I recovered many of these packs and they were a constant problems (and I mean dozens of packs) I have many repair videos of lots of packs! As mentioned this video was asked for as I mentioned several times the absolute best way I ran my 40V tools was with the two 20v packs in series because the 40v batteries are not designed well. I also do not show many times in my videos boosting packs because as mentioned in many of my reoairs, you should not boost without looking at the physical condition of the cells, you want to see why? Watch the video I did on the kobalt 40V pack that I posted. DO NOT boost packs without knowing what you are putting Voltage accross!
@@ThriftyToolShedhi there, sorry to bother you, I'm a novice at best..... If I connect 40v to the positive battery terminal would I simply connect the negative to the bottom left cell (battery right hand side)? Would this charge the whole pack? Both sides in parallel??? I just need to jump start it and bypass the BMS then charge with the original when it reaches minimum charging voltage ... I would really appreciate a little advice . These batteries are a fortune to replace.... Cheaper to get a petrol lawnmower lol
hello, i was wondering what a better way to take apart the newer battery you show in video because i have one but the output is still showing 40v. i feel if i spit the board in half it might fry something. should i try to desolder the positive first? that are in the middle. then do the negative? i was going to try to cut the negative first since it on the outside of the battery and is the easiest. but i feel like it might fry something.
It is always a risk with battery packs for sure. The best way to do the ones like in the video to me was to de-solder them. I would use low temp. Solder and add some into the connections for the cells sections. It will take a large 150W iron or higher to get the job done easily and either de-solder wick de-solder pump to clean joints well and the board should lift off. Back when I used to repair some of these packs that is how I did it. I really did not care which ones I de-soldered first, I just got them all de-soldered, cleaned and gently lift board off of terminals while still applying heat also. Of course being careful not to let the iron or any other tool come across more than one terminal at a time. Best of luck to ya!
morning sir got a stupid question for you. i have the ryobi op40504 and the lights are flashing and will not stop. i tried to jump reset and gnd but still flashing. now this battery has 2 rows of jumps first set reads gnd 3.3v res dio clk second set reads gnd 3.3v res isp tx rx anybody have an idea?
Not a stupid question at all. I have not worked on this model myself. It seems from what you are describing that it may have 2 Microcontrollers? If it has 2 headers. Jumping the Reset on both is one of the things I would try, the only other thing I can think to mention without experience with them myself is look for any corrosion especially around the microcontroller pins and maybe try some plastic safe and non-conductive electronics cleaner and clean the board well. That's all I would know to try. May really be a microcontroller problem?
@@ThriftyToolShed well thank you sir. I did try jumping one at a time the 2 sets of jumps but I think I will try to jump both 1 set then the other set and see if with both jumpers in place that might reset. The board looks ok except all the heat evidence by the fuel switch and the mofsets. Again thank you I do appreciate you opinion.
I see. Yes I think one at a time like you did should be fine. Sorry for the confusion. I simply meant to make sure you did do a reset on both, but I did not mean the same time. Other than the board cleaning, I would not know any other trick. If you have not seen it, check out the Ridgid pack repair I have, it was strange how cleaning the board fixed it even though I had no sign of corrosion like usual. Best of luck to ya!
ruclips.net/video/lpjdJCqBsTU/видео.html
@@ThriftyToolShed well i did all three ways . heres a link to the video i posted of the issue. ruclips.net/video/T6xMwPbcvn0/видео.html
Since i found first and last cell i just solder leads my bms is working. So yep
I have same batterise they don't work. When I measure them, the voltage keep moving down. I don't understand what's that means. Can you explain it for me? Thank you in advance.
In your case, if you're measuring the voltage from the + and - terminals, you're reading the voltage across the capacitor. It's likely that a bad cell in your battery is leaving an open circuit through the DC portion of the battery. The capacitor is connected in parallel to the cells (and MOSFETs) and is still a circuit. When you put the battery on the charger, it will charge the capacitor (because the circuit is closed) but not the cells (because the circuit is open). Normally, closing the circuit in a capacitor will allow an almost instant discharge of the charge built up in the capacitor, but your ohmeter has a huge resistor built in that limits the current of the discharging capacitor. What you are seeing with the voltage starting at a relative high and dropping is the slow discharge of the capacitor with the voltage difference between the positive and negative terminals of the capacitor going towards 0 as the capacitor discharges.
@@michaelmcginnis1429 thanks
Those internal pressure discs opened on mine.
I have not had that happen on the 40Vpacks. I originally thought these 3 packs were going to have some, but not even one! That good to know. Thanks for your comment!
where do you get your dvm meter leads from GREY , I would like to buy some, thanks walter
Hi,
These are the Fluke TL910 leads and they are expensive. I really like them for SMD testing, they are really handy. I actually bought these used with a Fluke 179 meter years ago. This is a similar set I believe?
amzn.to/3LCcDgU
EBay also has some at times cheaper, but hit or miss like these for example...
www.ebay.com/itm/New-FLUKE-TL910-Electronic-Test-Probes-/234405778020?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
Thanks for the really informative video on these!
Looking at my OP40401 board, it looks like they use TP designations for the individual (paralled) battery connections rather than the CL designation you and others refer too which may be the older 40v board?
Can you point out the stepped connection points & sequence for individual testing, maybe a marked up pic?
The 0 driven may be due to economic. May be a sad reason
Hey there, love the video. Do you have a video on rebuilding both the old and new style Ryobi 40v batteries? Having an issue with a 5Ah battery that only charges to two bars max. Thinking I may need to take each cell out and manually charge them but not 100% sure on the fix. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks for your comment! I do not have any video on the 40V Ryobi packs. I never had great success with the BMS board that TTI surely over complicated for some reason. It's problematic and even though I had a little luck replaced cells in some and a few the microcontroller reset helped get it back going. A few ofthers I actually had bad MOSFETs for the output of the pack faulty. In the end I did not have the best results for my efforts and most repairs were short lived. I had the best luck running my Ryobi 40V stuff with my (2) 18V Makita packs in series and never had an issue, just more aggregating to deal with as a battery holder. This worked until I was able to switch over to the EGO 56V platform. No looking back on that one. If you do find some cells low 9n your pack, maybe charging them up and getting all 20 cells balanced could possibly get some more life from your pack. Best of luck to you on yours!
what do you charge to rebuld a 40v pack?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Didn't watch the entire video, but there is a RESET pin on the board labeled RST. All you need to do is charge up the + and _ using 35v at 2amps for about 20 hours. Then, short circuit the RST pins on the board. The battery will work again! Watch the video from 'Gears and Tech'.! Save yourself hours of time and crazy amounts of money on these 40V Ryobi batteries. None of the work some of the guys in the comments below is necessary. You DO NOT need to balance each individual cel. All it needs is a reset but the pack needs power (35v) before you can do that! If that fails, then yes, you have a bad cel.
Yes, the reset pins are mentioned and the most problematic issue by far is individual cells.
Thanks for the video. I have had some troubles with my 40v batteries. 2 out of 3 are Ryobi and 3rd is a third party. 5 out of 6 of my One+ 18v batteries are bad. All 18v are Ryobi. I stayed with Ryobi since they worked well in the first couple of years. I like cordless tools. What would you recommend? Fix and stay with Ryobi or what manufacture would you go with? Thanks I enjoy your channel.
Yeah, I have had more issue with Ryobi packs than any others by far. I would say if I still had 40V Ryobi stuff, I would use a work around. Either the two 20V packs like I did to get by or maybe even look into the new SKIL 40V platform. I have not tried these myself, but I am interested because they are made by Chervon the same people that makes EGO 56V equipment. I bet these batteries are really good. I would even see if I could use them with my existing Ryobi 40V honestly. Make an adapter if I have to. As far as the 18v packs, they hold up pretty good, but I will repair what I have now but will not buy any more. they are more expensive thanbthe M18 and DeWalt packs, because of the extra protection on board like mosfets to cut the pack off. I did a video showing an adapter from DeWalt or M18 to Ryobi and I will just use these with my higher quality M18 or DeWalt packs. The only downside to the adapter is it has no undervoltage or over temp protection this way. You have to realize when the tool is starting to slow down some, go ahead and charge the pack before you pull it to far down. No big deal at all.
Thanks Brent for your Comment...
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for the quick reply. Funny that most of my trouble is with the 18v packs. I have a few 40v tools like mower, trimmer, pole saw. My 18v list is trimmer, saws all, leaf blower, light, skill saw. I have been using the mower many times a mowing. Recharge times are when I work on other things. Anyway, the 40v has been tasked a lot more than the 18v. I wish EGO was out before I got this invested with Ryobi but as I said, I didn’t have many problems then. You have inspired me to measure the battery cells of my bad modules. Oh, by the way, I am glad Hurricane Laura decided to not head into Texas. Cheers!
@@brentjohnson6654
Interesting about the 18V packs, but I will say to your point, every single time I go to Home Depot and peek into there battery recycle bin I see lots of the smaller Ryobi 18V packs. Like the 2ah etc. Seems they do fail alot. As far as the storm goes, I bet! Stay safe....
Milwaukee. Period. All other brands just garbage and I used all of them.
can you plz post a few web sites where i can purchase diodes, resisters and capacitors etc, tnx in advance
Well there are many places. I DigiKey, mouser, Newark are just a few and are best for selection and ordering in bulk.If you just want one or two of an item I always search eBay or sometimes even Amazon!
Shipping is much better...
See example links in the descriptions in some my repair videos for example:
ruclips.net/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/видео.html
Im gonna solder 2leads and charge it with ,ebike charger 2amp
Do hart 40v's have the same issues since its the same company?
I have no experience with Hart to say for sure. I would only guess similar design for sure, has some issues been resolved....
No idea!
Ryobi 40V Lithium cells are junk, so much so I recently sold all my Ryobi power tools at a yard sale minus their dead/defective batteries for cents on the dollar. I must have gotten just twelve charges from each one. The cells ended up in the Home Depot recycle trashcan. I've had so many issues with all their Lithium cells for nearly 15 years, from 18V to 40V... so I've finally had enough! Bye bye Ryobi...
Garbage tech. It doesn’t charge when it goes low voltage. Just so people go buy more batteries.
I wouldn't thinkso
Cause by the time you bought
All 20 batterys you could just go out
Get a newone.
If you lived uphere in minnesota
You'd changevyou'r tune.
I have gone thru 5 batteries with only a few uses. The ryobi 40v system is garbage.
dont breath that
So stay away from Ryobi 40 volt batteries . Got it.
Unless they redesigned them for sure!
9
You're giving me a 9 out of 10?
Or is it 9 out of 100?
Or you stopped watching after 9 seconds? 🤔
This seems to be designed to motivate people to DESTROY THEIR TOYS
Reading some of the suggestions makes me think YOU ARE ALL TROLLS TRYING TO TRICK PEOPLE K DESTROYING YOUR HARD EARNED PROPERTY
What was designed to motivate people to destroy their toys?
The secret with Ryobi batteries is to never drain them below 2 bars.
I believe it is way more with the heat build up of the cell being packed together with terrible cooling design actually causing issues. It may help to run them less time of course as you mentioned not down below 2 bars. As far as 18650 cells go it is fine to go from 4V down to 2.8V with no issues. I usually perform capacity tests from 4.2 down to 2.7V with no issues. I don't think it is as much of an issue using less than half the capacity of the pack every time as it is the thermal dissipation especially in the center of the larger packs. I believe the only way to fix the Ryobi 40V packs is a complete redesign or as an immediate work around is maybe using very high end 21700 cells say 4000mah and only having 1P 10S design so you don't have so many cells packed as tight as they can possible fit together. For most people using half a pack's capacity is not even close to a solution really. For example, a 2ah pack in the blower would last no time. You are turning 2ah into nearly 1ah packs and 4ah into nearly 2ah packs....
@@ThriftyToolShed I think it is later designed the battery not engineer first thing you need to think about is cooling
New design is terrible
I have a P107 and each cell reads 3.8 plus volts. But the led shows one bar. The charger also will not charge the pack. Any ideas??
Then when it is on the charger. The charger clicks multiple times with the steady red and flashing green lights