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- Опубликовано: 13 фев 2024
- Get all the STL files and Discord access PLUS join in on this month's print&paint by becoming a member below on any of these platforms. See you over there!
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::Affiliate Links::
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Flsun V400 on Amazon $599 - geni.us/IdeA
Creality Hyper PLA on Amazon - geni.us/SpAszl
Creality Hyper Direct - shrsl.com/4ey0d
eSUN PLA+ on Amazon - geni.us/8FAhP
Huge thank you to these amazing artists for donating their STL files to Once in a Six Side members this month!
Artificiers Mini - www.myminifactory.com/users/A...
DM Stash - www.dmstash.com/
Imp3Dsion - imp3dsion.com/
Lv427 Designs - lv427-designs.com/
MOID - / moid
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Snowball Sculpts - www.myminifactory.com/users/S...
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SYNRGSTUDIO - cults3d.com/en/users/SynrgStu...
TOADYDESIGN - cults3d.com/en/users/toadydes...
Printables Links
Skull Dice Tower - www.printables.com/model/5608...
V400 Speederpad Mount and Cable Clip - www.printables.com/model/5474...
V400 Probe Holder - www.printables.com/model/7645... 
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Get all the STL files and Discord access PLUS join in on this month's print&paint by becoming a member below on any of these platforms. See you over there!
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Thanks to all the creators supporting our man OiaSS.
Oi, ass!
Oi Ass
FDM prints always look best from the top angle; try slicing models into pieces so you can orient them up (like outer part of arms and legs, I would have sliced those terrain bits up so they all printed facing up). Slicers like PrusaSlicer have a great split tool that lets you add connectors, and they fit really well when you print them at .10 mm layer height or less. You can fill the gaps left over, paint+prime and some sanding and looks pretty good!
I saw someone jank his fdm printer to work as an injection mould printer. Absolutely excellent quality out of those prints, I wish I remembered the channel name
I disagree, the resolution on top parts (XY-direction) is not as good, the nozzle size really restricts the resolution giving you this "heightmap" style look. Even with the layer lines you get better resolution in Z-direction, because the nozzle size is not the limiting factor there, it's how small steps the stepper motor can take.
Wow, Star Wars, Star Trek and Aliens!! My husband just got a new 3D printer and will be thrilled with these files.
Thank you LV427-Designs!
Oh, and I love the mule!!
It's honestly really amazing that they gave you that long to do it. Frigging awesome of them. Delta printers are a rare breed, they have their benefits and their downsides but what I'm seeing here looks pretty decent. Price is a little high but fit and finish is nice and function looks near perfect.
Accelerometers hardly ever come with printers yet... Theyre a very advanced option and generally require advanced setup and use of the linux commandline in pi. It is definitely NOT default, nor required, but it's really nice and useful.
i'm absolutely loving the change in content and frequency of your videos! i like that it's less scripted and more genuine with the same level of polish that i've come to appreciate from your channel. keep up the good work!
If you fancy branching into other modelling genres, rockyq mecha addict has some incredible gundam models that i think would make some incredible content. After seeing you print the warlord titan, i feel like you could do a gundam proud ❤
I use Esun pla+ too. Another good brand is sunlu. I print terrain and some paintball parts and both are tough stuff.
You need to do a flow calibration to get better prints, all my filaments even same brand but a different colour have different flow values. Makes a huge difference to basic print quality.
Honestly, it may not be the greatest thing out there, with all the coolest gadgets or features... But coming from someone who is actively shopping my upgrade... It's reassuring to hear that they are relatable, cooperative, understanding, REAL people. That's honestly a big deal, considering all the complaints I see about all these super high end machines always involve the people behind the machines being extremely difficult for whatever reason.
you are amazing bud!! you deserve much more visibility than you have
12:50 As it turns out, yes. Bite the Bullet has a donkey in their massive welcome pack.
24:35 typically when you get cottage cheese on this level it means the paint froze at some point, its especially prevalent with mica based metallics, but can happen with other paints as well, so definitely test it thoroughly before putting it in your airbrush again
I got a v400 from the first batch in a time were flsun did not communicate about combing it was a pain to tinker this.. I now have a p1p day and night no tinker and awesome details with 0.2mm nozzle
26:13 “And holy crap I’m out of script guess I should write some more” has me sobbing oh my god
This was a great moment, laughed my ass off
As a model train guy I am learning so much from you miniature guys. Those PLA rocks are much better than cast plaster. Bambu labs still at near top of my FDM list. Top of my list of FDM are Pollen printers, Delta bed slingers but they use pellet feed stock. I am have lots of fun with my cheap Anycubic Mono 2 at the moment.
Id recommend setting your support Top Z Distance to .30mm . This will help get the support close enough to do their job but less impactful on the model and easier to remove
Elegoo Black PLA is the best filament I have ever used. You can get it in packs of 4 for 40$ and its quality is insane.
The bigger "problem" with FDM troubleshooting is that the same issue could be caused by many different things. Layer shifts for example could be caused by overextrusion, inadequate Zhop or retraction, or even combing as with your case.
Unfortunately had the same issue with army painter white primer air. I tried shaking it for a good 5-6min with no changes in its consistency. I had to use a paint strainer to remove the white flecks/chunks. After that the paint worked fine.
Yeah the old Army Painter medium was really not very good
Their customer support is pretty good though, so I'd recommend reaching out. They sent me a replacement
I have been using the ESun PLA + myself since amazon AU has it decently priced. never really had any issues with the filament.
The Bambu A1 is probably the most competitive fdm machine right now. 400 bones is a steal for such a polished product
Bambu Lab announced a recall for all A1 printers just recently.
so.. yeah
@@marschma It’s a single heater cable. They’re still the best bang for your buck printers out there atm
@@crispy_338 They do produce quite good prints, but im just not a fan of the closed eco system and relying on a chinese manufacturer for quality.
If it was another open source printer, i can just buy a quality replacement part when the chinese cheap stuff evnetually breaks.
With Bambulab you are 100% reliant on the company to do all that.
And once they decide to just not support a printer anymore, youre screwed.
Smells all to much like HP printer with brand ink cartriges to me.
Bambulab is 100% not making money of the printer itself, but off its ecosystem, and that can (and probably will) turn predatory at any moment.
@@marschma Bro just about every 3d printer is Chinese made. Plus the Bambus are much higher quality and don’t require tinkering and replacing of parts like the old Enders do. Prusa and Bambu have made everyone else obsolete
Just started printing terrain on my Bambu printer. Stunned with the results. AWESOME VIDEO BTW
at around the 15:00 mark you can observe a perfect example on how NOT to fix an issue. Looking online for solutions before doing some investigation yourself will only make matters worse, confuse you even more or guide you in the wrong direction. 3d printers are quite simple machines and not too hard to troubleshoot. If you understand how they work and with a little experience you get a pretty good sense what the issues might be.
Nice video and a fair review, it got me interested in their new model. The prints look well, perhaps some more cooling. GGS is good stuff, seeing the package makes me miss his videos, I learned a lot over the years.
Thanks for another great video, love your work!
A detail that *still* hasn't gained as much traction as it should is that there's basically two major subsets of the 3d printing hobby - people who find the printers themselves fascinating and want to tinker, modify, and someday build the machine. For them, fiddling with the printer *is* the hobby. Then there's the people who want to design and create other things, and just want the 3d printer to be a workhorse tool. For them, every minute spent adjusting the printer is a waste of time.
For many years, *all* 3d printers were aimed at the "tinkerer" side of the hobby. Prusa was sort-of supporting the "just works" side, but not until Bambu Labs exploded onto the market was that half of the hobby truly supported. This means that a lot of 3d printers , especially FDM, take as a starting assumption that the user will have at least some knowledge of how to build and tune a printer - or that at the very least, that user is interested in that knowledge, and will happily learn how to do it.
It looks like FLSun sits in that space - in the presumption that a user will happily tinker with the printer to get it and keep it fully tuned. Whilst you, OiaSS, seem to be (like me) in the "just works" side of the hobby. (This seems to be quite common from the people who come in via SLA, since they're mechanical simplicity means there's not much there for the "I want to build it" folks.)
Anyway, my point is that every one of us has that basic bias over what we want the printer to actually be for, and in any kind of review the reviewer's stance on "just works" versus "tinker" should be acknowledged.
Oh, and I very much disagree with the notion that resin is easier than FDM. There are a lot of setting that need to be fiddled with on resin, too, and it seems like those settings need to be fiddled for every different type of resin. The chemistry - and thus optimum settings - seems to vary both with brand name and with product line. Whereas for FDM, once you have the settings for a given kind of plastic, you're pretty much done. PLA is PLA is PLA, ABS is ABS is ABS. A handful of edge cases aside, every brand will perform pretty much the same and you don't really need to constantly tweak your settings. I will concede that there's more variation between individual machines on the FDM side than there is on the SLA side, such that my settings are probably not perfect for your printer, but they're not actually harder to learn. You've just forgotten how much you already know about dialing in SLA.
You're right, I'm definitely in the "just works" camp. I'm interested in printers that work out of the box, so when it comes to fdm I just install whatever slicer or profile came with the printer and use that - and the moment it doesn't work.. Frustration is had.
If you see my comprehensive guide to resin 3D printing I cover how easy it is to dial in any resin, and identify the cause of print failures. Like I said, it all fits on a single page document with resin printing. You can understand it front to back inside an hour.
@@OnceinaSixSide Sure, but then you need to do that every time - or at least most times - you try a new resin. With FDM, you'll need to fiddle a little longer the first time, but then you're done - assuming you have a "just works" type printer; the "Tinker" printers *are* more work, I'll give you that, but it's because they keep going out of alignment and need to be retrammed every so often, not because of any element of FDM per se.
Of course, "how much work" something is is mostly a matter of perception, and it's probably relevant that we're both arguing in favour of the process we learnt first! :D
I love this channel please never stop making videos so glad poorhammer told me about your channel
Solid Video, love your reviews as well as pacing and shooting skills
Instead of buying expensive pigment powders, you can just buy a set of cheap pastels (not the oil based ones) and grind them up. I don't know enough to say they are the same thing, but from my experience they behave the same way, which is what really matters.
I think the new blend of the Mars base ready was made so it doesn't stain EVERY GODDAMN THING IN EXISTENCE.......phew...sorry about that. I used the original one on an army and trust me, I think it was substrate mixed with a pigment powder because jesus h christ on a bike you better hope you didn't spill any unless you wanted your hobby area to look like a murder had happened a week prior.
Shout out to the incredible production quality.
Wow.. an actual genuine native "DustBunnie" !!!!! ;)
I've got a Flsun Q5 from a couple years ago running across the room right now. It's not my most accurate printer and it's been a challenge at times to calibrate, but there's just something magic about watching a delta printer do its work. Flsun machines are C+ tools but it's still my printer of choice to show people unfamiliar with 3d printing.
A simple truth (from my experience in FDM printing):
if you can not print with the default cura slicer settings, then its a mechanical problem.
tweaking the slicer settings is not gonna cancel out heatcreep, loose belts, unlevelled bed or shitty parts
My V400 is the GOAT. Love it, got the S1 on pre-order right now
Got a Neptune 4 Plus few months ago after two years with my Mars 3, compared to the Ender 3 I have at work the machine is a god damn beast. Out the box, leveled and was printing better then anything I have seen off that paperweight of a machine at work. Cherry on top, belt broke after 2 prints and Elegoo rushed shipped a replacement out to me within a day, great products and customer service, cant beat that.
One downside to delta printers (at least the ones from flsun that I’ve used) is that they don’t do well with objects that are placed near the edge of the build plate.
I’m not sure what the reason is but if you keep 1/4”-1/2” clearance on the sides that should clear up the issues.
I had sparks with Wanhao i3 plus glad I fixed it before great badness. Terrain is amazing. Shout out to the creators and your cylinder.
You might be able to reduce that stringing by lowering the flow rate. But also check what the retract before layer change setting is in that profile. Personally if the stringing is very fine and can be cleaned off with a lighter I don't bother with trying to tweak it away as there are generally trade offs.
Man those prints are INCREDIBLE for FDM! I'm really interested to see how their next gen pans out - hopefully they're out soon?
Been running my 2nd hand anycubic vyper with good results. It’s my first filament printer, but I’ve been itching to pick up a large form fast filament printer. Not sure if the kobra 2 max is the way to go yet. These fast printers look awesome though
Like smashed!!! Is all I can afford. I'm an esun user as well. And the reason for that is because it is ALWAYS cheaper than any other brands I've looked at.
Its a lovely tube…i have had good luck myself fem printing vehicles and terrain, i think its better option for larger models myself
Not sure if you're maxing out the fan on that profile, but the underside of those hedgerow cutters and some of the overhangs on the Nostrom corridors seem to suggest more cooling. Otherwise, the prints are really good.
sidenote - cura for me was really cursed on more than one printer.
Switch to different slicer like PrusaSlicer or SuperSlicer
14:45 i struggle to call this "successfully printed". Look what happened in the last 2mm, there is a layer shift. This is also where a lot of stringy garbage in the print comes from, it was from where the shifted bead was unsupported by previous layer.
A Delta printer can Z-hop vigorously without losing speed. Use this capability to not scrape the prints. Consider switching to Orca Slicer and using diagonal hop.
You also have a print bed adhesion problem, perhaps you palmed the bed with your bare hand and it's oily now, or you need higher bed temperature. When a print curls up, that's a prime snagging opportunity for the nozzle, and probably the reason for your print failures.
17:38 engineering mistake, pins MUST have a thermal relief, otherwise you get soldering failures like your colleague, and not all of them are going to be visible. I don't find the soldering here reassuring tbh, i would have an urge to completely re-do this, like this is way too little solder. I've also had 3D printer board burn itself up which looked well soldered, the defect was SO well hidden, but i actually rebuilt that section with PCB repair techniques and it's running, i'm using it. Probably don't do what i do, i have EE education and so much electronics repair experience.
17:58 reading comprehension - the warehouse is in Germany, the customer is in a nearby country you never heard of, and they're probably offended at you now for not acknowledging their national identity.
Deltas are SO RARE these days, i sort of commend FLSUN for sticking to them. Saviours of a dying breed. Even if they are quite incompetent.
Of course this is released at midnight for me, I’ll finish watching in the morning, I have enough self control.
Probably
Gotta say I havent had as much problems with my V400. I definitely like my Resin printer better (elegoo mars 4) but the v400 isnt bad. I got it about a year ago and the only major issue I had was the motherboard went out on me. Flsun sent a new one after some trouble shooting and I really did not have any issues in contacting them via email.
I still think if I would have gone with a different platform if I would have known what I do now about the V400, but since I have it I can say its not bad.
🙄 FINE I'll fix my 3D printer!
😝 It's been down for over a year but I think you sold me with that tank modding! 🤘
Ive been looking for decent Rock terrain for ages ... for Gorka morka ect. This stuff looks bang on !
Also you seem to use A LOT of infill. Most FDM terrain prints only need 5%
3-4 walls gives as much strength as 40% infill
Fairly decent video overall, I like the style and the commentary... If I may offer a suggestion, learn more about the processes involved with 3D printing and how they interact. This will help you GREATLY in understanding what is going on with your prints and how to tweak them to get the perfection you seek... Cura is pretty decent but I would recommend Prusa Slicer or even Orca Slicer which is a fork off of the Bambu Labs slicer with great controls and calibration features. The Delta printers are a bit more notorious for some things and your apparent expertise leans heavily towards it being VERY beneficial to learn more about the parameters and process to make your prints much better. These are not Star Trek replicators, they are a machine tool and the more you know, the better they work to get what you want. Another thing to take note of, many of those awesome looking models are **NOT** designed with 3D printing in mind... so they can be FAR more difficult to get good prints if you are unfamiliar with what you are doing and how to handle making good modifications to make them work. Overall, good enough to be worth a subscribe!
FYI the P1S and P1P don't have all the same self calibration tools the X1C has. Like LIDAR and flow meter, but I still love my P1S.
I wonder if there is room for the delta printers to have a passthrough slot on the Z rails so that the gantry could slip through and max out the Z dimension
FDM printing is infinitely harder than Resin in my opinion. Having to put together the printer, and then troubleshoot settings on top of that, goodness I still have an incompletely built PRUSA FDMprinter because the instructions suck so bad! and I am an engineer! I should be able to put this thing together lmao
What airbrush system do you use and what psi do you use as the footage from this video, the flow seemed a lot higher than what I’ve see from other creators
That rabbit tho
Shout out wheels, all my homies thankful for wheels
bunny's are the best pets
You should try out another slicer like Orca slicer!
What airbrush do you use?
The problem with delta printers is their moves require them to start and stop in specific places. If one of the motors skip, the moves will no longer be flat which is why the was lifting up towards the edges. All deltas should be made with closed loop steppers.
24:36 oh yeah AP white primer need the shaking of a lifetime every time, I dropped some additional mixings balls in there (not sure it has much effect passed two or three)
Damn dude you have an absurd amount of infill on that tank.
You got rabbits too? Awesome
its ALL the Rabbit Fault.--------->. Roasted Rabbit With Potatoes :
1 rabbit (2-3 kg)
6 potatoes
1 onion
2 carrots
5 garlic cloves
oil
bay leaves
black pepper
salt
There is so much bass at 8 min 10 sec that my fillings fell out!
I have 2 flsun v400 don't plug the USB stick into the middle USB port the USB stick becomes extremely hot!
at least my 2 printers
Loot Studios supplies a donkey as well this month :D Collab when??
i too am loyal to esun because its all i can get from jaycar :)
Is this potentially a good intro as a first FDM printer, if I'm already familiar with SLA printing?
Tbh they are more cheaper and easier alternatives.
The Creality SE v3 is 1/3 the price and is as beginner as you get.
My Opinion: I wouldn´t choose a delta as my first printer. They are fascinating, but prone to errors. And this video hasn´t exactly challenged my opinion on this point. But more important, they are really tall and i do not like the round buildplate. As said, an Ender or Ender 3 clone should be better. But it depends on the intended use case:
Just forprinting terrain pieces and the occasional practical part, a not to expensive Ender 3 or clone should be more than enough. I have an Elegoo Neptune 3 and one Neptune 4. I like them, they work. Around 200 to 250 Dollar. For tinkering or as a workhouse, a Prusa MK4 is likely a good option. 1200 Dollar or so, but with great customer support. Bambu Labs offers some good, fast and modern printers around the same price point, but also some cheaper options. As far as i know these are goos machines. But just a few days ago they issud a warning that one of the cheaper models has a defect part and needs to be recalled. In the end, i also would suggest a not to pricey bedslinger, there are many options out there, i only mentioned those i am most familiar with.
Just curious; why do you hate inks? I don't tend to highlight with ink, but I'm just curious. Too saturated or something?
hey, you should use some inks
To save you some editing time in the future, IP addresses starting with 192 168 are local, you don't need to censor them, we all have them.
Hey mate, love the video but this is like 5 different videos here! Game the algorithm.
Delta printers aren't worth shit. There's a reason they never caught on. If you know anything about 3D printers, you'd stay away from Delta based printers.
I just googled the new FL sun printers cos they look promising. $9,999 .. yeah .. nah. Thanks tho.
That freaked me out too lmao. If you look closely though those prices are place holders to prevent you from ordering until they restock or something like that. Not the best marketing startegy from Flsun, that's for sure...
@@OnceinaSixSide it seems the price is around $2500 aud which isnt outrageous. It would definitely need a heated chamber upgrade to tempt me away from the competition though.
Over 1 meter per second...
moar
Dear printer Manufacturer Plz stop including white filament, its a trick on the eyes and does not represent the true look of the layer lines! Print that rabbit in black and lets see the real quality this thing puts out!
My dude I am going to be honest here, that print quality is bad. Oof. I've got older and cheaper printers that make way nicer prints than that thing -- and they came with an acceleratometer, usually built in these days. Like even my relatively janky SV07 makes better prints. That V400 sucks, and I'm glad you paid what its worth for it, lol.
Your vulgar language is unnecessary and offensive.
Great video but too many F bombs mate