The algorithm brought me here. After watching the video, I fully expected to see 500k+ subs, and I know that you’ll get them and more if you keep at it. I’m honored to be among your first 1,000. Keep it up dude. This is a beautiful build, and a really well made video.
I second that, the quality of not only the final product of the project but the editing and final product of the video are something I've seen lacking in channels with WAY bigger audiences. You're truly a hidden gem that I really hope blows up in a big way!
@@brungerbuildsevery single military surplus ammo can/ artillery tube/ grenade case I have laid my hands on has both over sprayed and under sprayed stencils. Definitely adds a touch of realism to the prop.
Just got into 3d printing and have discovered this new world of model/prop making. There are so many great but underappreciated channels. Yours is certainly one of them! Great job!
So Cool! I do have an idea to improve the scomp mechanism just a little. I would add a recess below the bottom gear with a spring and add a keyed element to it so that when the scomp is turned to a certain position, it can drop down an inch or so. Then in that recess, add another switch that unlocks the crate and relocks it when pressed again, I would make it so that this drop down is 45 degrees rotation from the other one, so that like R2 does, you gotta move it around in multiple directions to first turn on the sounds, then unlock the crate in another position.
12:58 I always use a light coat of repositionable photo mount spray adhesive on all my stencils. Easy to remove, almost never picks up paint, the effect gets better with repeated use, and ya don't get fuzzy spray. Also try spraying from farther away with a bit more pressure if you have loose stencils.
Man this came out incredible! The pre-scratching method also works really well. I did this when I built my custom mandalorian armor, and it made such a massive difference
for the interior, you could have used the 3d printed ones as a mold or a vacuume form, then make some out of silicone or rubber. or print them in a flexible material for a truly shock-absorbent interior.
Thank you! My only tip is do LOTS of light passes and be fairly random in the thickness of your metal color coats. That’ll help add a sort of depth to the overall color.
Looks amazing! On stenciling what I do to help on overspray is put pennies across the stencil to weigh it down. But in real military crates, they obviously use stencils and overspray happens on those. So it captures that feel of military crate.
This is absolutely amazing!! So many different tips throughout. The cornstarch in the UV resin for added texture as well as the modpodge/IPA/Chaulk were both things I've never seen and plan on trying out soon. Love all the details in there and how the droid socket actually functions to turn things on/off. The cam interacting with the button was genius for changing rotation into linear button interaction. Saved this to a few different playlists to come back to specific parts. Absolutely love it and WELL worth subscribing!
Thank you! Can’t take credit for the chalk idea since I learned it from The Smugglers Room here on RUclips. It really is such a great tool for weathering though! If I were to do this build again, I think I’d try to use a magnetic reed switch in the socket so that it didn’t impede the smoothness of the spin at all. Thanks for watchin!
At 6:23 minute for masking, you can use liquid latex use it on the areas you need and peels right off! Amazing build I learned so much already !!! Can wait to see the rest of your creations 🎉🎉🎉😊
Thank you! I’m always trying to find that line of delivering enough information that you could replicate my work, but not giving so much nitty gritty detail that I’m talking the viewer to death 😅
Holy crap, less than 2k subs for this level of quality is criminal! Subbed! Also, I really love your approach to greebling, using the source material as inspiration but going in your own direction that still respects the source and tries to match the style as closely as possible.
Thanks so much! Detailing is definitely one of my favorite parts in the process and really my only regret in this project was that i didn’t make the greeblie panel bigger haha! Thanks for the sub!
Holy smokes! Thanks so much! My son and I love your stuff and I went through and watched all your control panel related videos in prep for this build! Thanks for the sub!
Just when I started to feel like my childhood love of Star Wars was lost thanks to all the modern rubbish, this video popped up on my feed and has filled my heart with joy. Thank you sir for your most excellent content! Absolutely brilliant execution and so deeply informative!
Fantastic build! The only thing I would think that would add to it, would be some sort of sound then the box opens, like it is unsealing or the pressure was turned off.
Wow, I cannot believe how many lessons I got from this one video, awesome work! Would you ever consider printing a soft material for the interior leather section?
Interesting! I think for texture, painting and weathering purposes, sticking with PLA would probably be the best option for this particular application, but still an interesting idea!
Holy crapsnacks! That was great, I started out thinking ‘something like this would be fun to try’ and with every extra step it become clearer that I am not the man for that job 😂 bravo. I just tried using pastels for the first time as blaster damage but the way you used them is different and brilliant again. Subscribed 👏👏🏆
For support material on big flat surfaces. I’ve seen a couple methods both need to pause, throw a peace of painters tape on the last layer of the supports. Another method is to color the last support layer with a sharpie apparently it stops the layers from bonding.
This was a beautiful build! By the way, your voice sounds a lot like Chris Salomone from Foureyes Furniture. Your signoff really sealed it though. You have a very soothing voice.
Absolutely wonderful really love end effect :) if there's one thing piece of advice I would give it's don't be afraid or made of or 2 really good dents bangs or dings on there. I handle quite a lot of old stuff and very seldom do you see a piece that only has superficial scuffs after any amount of aging. At some point someone will drop that crate on a metal grate or it might fall off of a shelf giving one of the corners a proper bash ^^
This was a very visually stunning project with next level weathering application! Quite impressive in finding the counter rotating moving parts as well as excellent execution of most of that... Now for the "other part"... You did a relatively good job with integrating the electronics that you used, however you could have ratcheted the whole project up a few notches by biting the bullet and learning a bit more of the electronics. There are many possibilities available that are really pretty easy to use and there are also programming languages that are little more than dropping operational "bricks" into place and telling them how long or number of times to run. There are also various magnetic and roller type switches that would have worked better without adding friction to the moving parts. With a little more thought, you could have also set it up to be more secure by adding contacts in certain places so only placing and turning the Droid SCOMP in the right places would allow the box to open using a simple servo. Overall, a bee yoo ti ful build with impressive attention to detail! I encourage you to keep at it and keep adding new skills to your "toolbox".
Thanks! Honestly the edited files are a total mess since it was my first time tinkering in Blender and I’ll need to do some more tweaking before they’re ready for public consumption haha. I briefly touched on it in the video but I ended up needing to do a ton of chopping post-print to get pieces to properly line up. 😅 I’m currently knee deep in a few more projects so it’ll be awhile before I can get around to it. Once I do though, I’ll let you know! Thanks again for watching!
@@brungerbuilds if you need a beta tester for the files, please feel free to reach out. I do that for a few groups here and there and I’m happy to help. Work on the game development side of things during the day and hobbyist builder/maker by night. All Star Wars all the time. ❤️
Thanks for the tip! Think I gotta find a new slicer cuz AnyCubics stock slicer is kinda lacking haha. For this build in particular though it took up my entire plate and so i had to use those flush supports that kinda bit me in the butt later 😅
@@brungerbuilds a really good slicer that I would recommend is prusaslicer, it has a lot of good features and is easy to use. You should be able to find a settings profile (idk the correct term) for your printer or you can set one up yourself. I’ve also heard orca slicer is good but haven’t tried it
Those S shaped plastic welder staples are meant to go in sideways, so that the wire passes through the seam more than once. You can get smaller straight staples for the orientation you used.
Yup! Used them in the proper orientation everywhere but the corners due to them being tight spaces. Figured that shape vertically is still a much stronger hold than a straight staple would be. Thanks for watching!
So first off that looks amazing two suggestions though, first is consider getting a starter set of student grade oil paints for weathering, there are some things that acrylics do better but for a general dirt/grease pass you can get a an equivalent if not superior weathering foundation cheap and easy. The second is a bit more niche, if your already going to get the white spirits for the previous suggestion I have seen some amazing results by dusting an area with pigment powders and then applying white spirits to the bottom of that area and letting capillary action draw it up across the powders on the surface, I saw this on a warhammer40k thing where the weathering powders from the base was up on the legs and they used a drop of white spirit as a pigment fixer on the base and was absolutely blown away by the texture of how the weathering powders settled around the knee joints.
2 things, i love the look of the somewhat feathered edges of the stenciled sides. this gives it that utilitarian vibe. and second.. using bloody pastels as pigment powder.. .. you telling me i am using expensive AK powder for my minis and i could use pastel chalk? .. sonova..
Dude I know! I got the idea from the channel The Smugglers Room when I was researching pigment powder alternatives. I DID NOT want to pay those prices haha. Thanks for watchin!
It’s pretty simple! I shoot on a black backdrop with a motorized lazy susan, and a single source of light above the prop. I then set my camera’s exposure so that it’s as dark as possible while still giving decent exposure to the prop itself. Then in post, I use curves to crush the image’s blacks just enough to completely remove any detail or digital noise from “the void” while maintaining good exposure on the prop. From there, I slap on my color grade with the final step in the process being a tiny lift on the blacks which gives them a slightly milky appearance. A film grain overlay is then applied to “glue” the whole image together. Hope that helps!
I do think the overspray on the stenciling is good, it makes the box feel mass-manufactured, like someone just slapped the stencil on and sprayed it in because they need to make another 50 of these by the end of the day.
The box took up the entirety of my build plate so I had no room for tree supports. I probably could’ve decreased the fill amount on the flush supports so that they didn’t cling so well to the box though 😅
PLEASE let me know any identifying info about that tape you mentioned at 10:23. I’m currently working on a project that would _greatly_ benefit from something like that (too tiny for a bearing but needs to spin smoothly)
Some awesome weathering advice I heard from Adam Savage of myth busters and Industrial Light and Magic (made the OG star wars practical effects) is that you should over do paint weathering just barely and then clean it as best as you can, because that's how real life works.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
Every artist should partner with an engineer. That looks like it belongs onscreen. Well done.
Thank you!
The algorithm brought me here. After watching the video, I fully expected to see 500k+ subs, and I know that you’ll get them and more if you keep at it. I’m honored to be among your first 1,000. Keep it up dude. This is a beautiful build, and a really well made video.
Thanks so much! Definitely hoping to get there one day 🤓
I appreciate the sub!
I second that, the quality of not only the final product of the project but the editing and final product of the video are something I've seen lacking in channels with WAY bigger audiences. You're truly a hidden gem that I really hope blows up in a big way!
@@norieniridius thanks for the kind words. ‘Preciate ya!
We should all be so lucky to have a friend that would go to these lengths for a gift. I'm lucky to get a text message off mine
Great video and prop! I recognise the bench greeble there 😊😊😉 subbed
Dude, thanks so much! Your files came in clutch for this build. Very appreciative!
@@brungerbuilds 👊
And thanks for the shout out!
@@RebelBaseBuilds Of course! 😃
The trick with the resin and the cornstarch is very clever. It looks really good.
Thank you! I definitely didn’t expect it to turn out as good as it did!
need me a pair of air jar jars
Absolutely amazing man… the cinematography, the build, the details, everything is just incredible!!
Thank you!
I actually think the overspray on the side details really add to the overall effect.
Awesome job with the leather effect!
Thanks! I think you’re right. Kinda gives it a hastily slapped on look that really matches the feel of a real cargo container.
Definitely agree. It doesn't look as polished, but that's perfect for a shipping container haha
I was about to say the same
@@brungerbuildsevery single military surplus ammo can/ artillery tube/ grenade case I have laid my hands on has both over sprayed and under sprayed stencils.
Definitely adds a touch of realism to the prop.
Absolutely stunning. What a wonderful gift!
Thank you!
insane stuff my dude, big inspiration. love that you're not afraid to show stuff that went wrong and how you went about fixing it
Glad y’all are enjoying the content. Thanks for watchin! ❤️
Wow! Awesome work. Love the electronics system as well
Thank you!
Wow! Fantastic video! Can't believe this channel is so small. I immediately subscribed!
Thank you! Hopin to get there one day 🤞🏼🤓
Just got into 3d printing and have discovered this new world of model/prop making. There are so many great but underappreciated channels. Yours is certainly one of them! Great job!
Thank you!
That's some Adam Savage level workmanship. I'm looking forward to whatever else you try your hand at.
Thank you!
The finished product looks amazing! 🔥 Great job
Thank you!
You keep blowing my mind with your level of skill with every video you put out! Another amazing job!!!
Thanks! ❤️
Nice work! It's good to see also non-super-technical people show that it's possible to work with sound, leds, and technology!
Thanks! That little module definitely does come in handy!
So Cool! I do have an idea to improve the scomp mechanism just a little. I would add a recess below the bottom gear with a spring and add a keyed element to it so that when the scomp is turned to a certain position, it can drop down an inch or so. Then in that recess, add another switch that unlocks the crate and relocks it when pressed again, I would make it so that this drop down is 45 degrees rotation from the other one, so that like R2 does, you gotta move it around in multiple directions to first turn on the sounds, then unlock the crate in another position.
12:58 I always use a light coat of repositionable photo mount spray adhesive on all my stencils. Easy to remove, almost never picks up paint, the effect gets better with repeated use, and ya don't get fuzzy spray.
Also try spraying from farther away with a bit more pressure if you have loose stencils.
Thanks for the tip!
Great project. A Star Wars themed fightstick controller would be great. Or a Star Wars themed PC case.
Amazing build! 🤘
Thank you!
Man this came out incredible! The pre-scratching method also works really well. I did this when I built my custom mandalorian armor, and it made such a massive difference
Thank you! The pre-scratching has become my go to technique for almost everything!
awesome build. the leather is awesome and id even say before you did the final wash it looked a lot like cork as well
Thanks!
I love the mod pog and PVA + chalk hack. I'm going to be using that. Great build!!!!
Its just mod podge and a little bit of IPA to thin out the mod podge! Thanks for watching!
IPA copy, I thought you said PVA. that would have turned out very different, lol.
Really nice build! I love all of the interactivity!
Thanks for watching!
for the interior, you could have used the 3d printed ones as a mold or a vacuume form, then make some out of silicone or rubber. or print them in a flexible material for a truly shock-absorbent interior.
Excellent commentary. So detailed. Top level finished product. You must have an extreme level of patience! Very authentic looking, for sure.
Thank ya!
Wow I’ve never thought of using dry brushing to fully paint a piece. It came out looking so good
Thank you! My only tip is do LOTS of light passes and be fairly random in the thickness of your metal color coats. That’ll help add a sort of depth to the overall color.
Looks amazing! On stenciling what I do to help on overspray is put pennies across the stencil to weigh it down. But in real military crates, they obviously use stencils and overspray happens on those. So it captures that feel of military crate.
Thanks for the tip!
This is absolutely amazing!! So many different tips throughout. The cornstarch in the UV resin for added texture as well as the modpodge/IPA/Chaulk were both things I've never seen and plan on trying out soon. Love all the details in there and how the droid socket actually functions to turn things on/off. The cam interacting with the button was genius for changing rotation into linear button interaction. Saved this to a few different playlists to come back to specific parts. Absolutely love it and WELL worth subscribing!
Thank you! Can’t take credit for the chalk idea since I learned it from The Smugglers Room here on RUclips. It really is such a great tool for weathering though!
If I were to do this build again, I think I’d try to use a magnetic reed switch in the socket so that it didn’t impede the smoothness of the spin at all. Thanks for watchin!
This box looks like it needs it's own EC Henry lore video, amazing job!
Thank you!
Excellent looking build!
Thanks!
At 6:23 minute for masking, you can use liquid latex use it on the areas you need and peels right off! Amazing build I learned so much already !!! Can wait to see the rest of your creations 🎉🎉🎉😊
Definitely gonna have to get me some soon. Sometimes the budget option just don’t work proper!
Young Man! This is an incredible build, and you have some great techniques for what you do! Bravo.
Thank you very much!
Really cool project! I keep learning new techniques to try from your videos. Keep up the great work!
Thanks, will do!
How has this channel big 1.5M subs????
You're doing an amazing job!
Thank you for the entertainment
Thank you! Hoping to get there one day! 🤞🏼🤓
That looks sick as heck! 10/10, would store a poncho in it.
Thanks!
Absolutely amazing work! i love it!
Thank you!
Incredible build and I liked how methodical and informative the vid was 🔥
Thank you! I’m always trying to find that line of delivering enough information that you could replicate my work, but not giving so much nitty gritty detail that I’m talking the viewer to death 😅
Holy crap, less than 2k subs for this level of quality is criminal! Subbed! Also, I really love your approach to greebling, using the source material as inspiration but going in your own direction that still respects the source and tries to match the style as closely as possible.
Thanks so much! Detailing is definitely one of my favorite parts in the process and really my only regret in this project was that i didn’t make the greeblie panel bigger haha! Thanks for the sub!
Brilliant work! Really enjoyed this project! Subbed!!
Holy smokes! Thanks so much! My son and I love your stuff and I went through and watched all your control panel related videos in prep for this build! Thanks for the sub!
@@brungerbuilds wow! Really? Thanks so kind of you. Thank you, and please thank your son for me too! Can’t wait to see what you do next.
Will do! Thanks again!
This is so good! Subbed.
I do wish that in the final reveal you'd used the mechanism. This is very inspiring.
Thank you! Kinda slipped my mind since I had shown it in the intro 😅 Appreciate the feedback!
Nice box!
Never thought of using pastels for weathering, thanks. Friend's Dead Space cosplay about to get proper grimey.
Yup, such a good idea! Learned it from The Smuggler’s Room. Definitely check him out if you haven’t. Good luck on your build!
Love the leather technique! I want to try that out!
Thanks! It definitely turned out better than expected! 😅
yet again, another amazing build, keep the awesome content coming buddy. Also, congrats on 826 subs, you're gonna be big one day.
Thanks for watchin, dude. Appreciate ya!
Stunning build, amazing video. Thanks a lot!
Thank you for watching!
Just when I started to feel like my childhood love of Star Wars was lost thanks to all the modern rubbish, this video popped up on my feed and has filled my heart with joy. Thank you sir for your most excellent content! Absolutely brilliant execution and so deeply informative!
Thank you for the kind words! Happy to hear you enjoyed the video!
I think that the way the stencil quad blurry outlines makes it look more industrial like it is Made on mass or however you say that!
Thanks! Lots of other commenters have said the same thing and I’ve come to agree! 😁
Woah what you deserve WAY more subs!!
So glad the algorithm brought me here, absolutely wicked build
Thank you so much!
Fantastic build! The only thing I would think that would add to it, would be some sort of sound then the box opens, like it is unsealing or the pressure was turned off.
Yep! I had planned to add that as well, but for the sake of time I went without. If I ever return to the design, I’ll definitely try to add that!
I just love the OT design, look and feel.
Thank you!
Its Teflon tape (or generic product), the white one for smooth sliding. Its the same stuff pan layers are made of.
This is incredible!! Thank you for sharing 😀
Thank you and thanks for watching!
Great build!
Thanks!
Fantastic build and just beautiful work!. As an fyi, I think the tape you used to allow lock pieces to spin freely was a drawer glide (or slide) tape.
Wow, I cannot believe how many lessons I got from this one video, awesome work! Would you ever consider printing a soft material for the interior leather section?
Thanks! I’m still pretty new to 3D printing so off the top of my head I can’t even think of what material i might use that’s soft 🤔
@@brungerbuilds I think there’s a silicone based filament that some folks use to print shoes believe it or not
Interesting! I think for texture, painting and weathering purposes, sticking with PLA would probably be the best option for this particular application, but still an interesting idea!
incredible work
Thank you!
Holy crapsnacks! That was great, I started out thinking ‘something like this would be fun to try’ and with every extra step it become clearer that I am not the man for that job 😂 bravo. I just tried using pastels for the first time as blaster damage but the way you used them is different and brilliant again. Subscribed 👏👏🏆
Haha thank you! It was definitely a very involved process to say the least 😅
Amazing stuff as always, the leather technique looks really cool
Thank you very much!
Amazing work! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching!
For support material on big flat surfaces. I’ve seen a couple methods both need to pause, throw a peace of painters tape on the last layer of the supports. Another method is to color the last support layer with a sharpie apparently it stops the layers from bonding.
Interesting 🤔 I’ll have to look into that
sick project....but why didnt you use the scomp link in the glamor shot???
I thought using it in the intro and showing it working along the way would be enough, but you’re not the only one to mention it 😅
This is actually so amazing, expected you to have a lot more subscribers
Thanks for watching! Hoping to get there one day!
This was a beautiful build!
By the way, your voice sounds a lot like Chris Salomone from Foureyes Furniture. Your signoff really sealed it though. You have a very soothing voice.
Thank you!
Try liquid latex for masking
Gonna give that a go one of these days! Something about adding the “scratches” before seeing the actual layer being scratched scares me haha!
So amazing! Wonderful! 🏆😊
Thank you!
Absolutely wonderful really love end effect :) if there's one thing piece of advice I would give it's don't be afraid or made of or 2 really good dents bangs or dings on there. I handle quite a lot of old stuff and very seldom do you see a piece that only has superficial scuffs after any amount of aging. At some point someone will drop that crate on a metal grate or it might fall off of a shelf giving one of the corners a proper bash ^^
Dying white LED's with alcohol ink is a great idea.
Gotta save money wherever possible haha!
This was a very visually stunning project with next level weathering application! Quite impressive in finding the counter rotating moving parts as well as excellent execution of most of that... Now for the "other part"... You did a relatively good job with integrating the electronics that you used, however you could have ratcheted the whole project up a few notches by biting the bullet and learning a bit more of the electronics. There are many possibilities available that are really pretty easy to use and there are also programming languages that are little more than dropping operational "bricks" into place and telling them how long or number of times to run. There are also various magnetic and roller type switches that would have worked better without adding friction to the moving parts. With a little more thought, you could have also set it up to be more secure by adding contacts in certain places so only placing and turning the Droid SCOMP in the right places would allow the box to open using a simple servo.
Overall, a bee yoo ti ful build with impressive attention to detail! I encourage you to keep at it and keep adding new skills to your "toolbox".
Awesome! What does "Air jar jar jars 611212' mean?
🤫🤷🏻♂️
phenominal work!
Thank you!
this is so freaking good what the hecc
Thank you!
Will you possibly be able to share your edited files if we want to do builds based on your work here? Love this whole project!
Thanks! Honestly the edited files are a total mess since it was my first time tinkering in Blender and I’ll need to do some more tweaking before they’re ready for public consumption haha. I briefly touched on it in the video but I ended up needing to do a ton of chopping post-print to get pieces to properly line up. 😅
I’m currently knee deep in a few more projects so it’ll be awhile before I can get around to it. Once I do though, I’ll let you know! Thanks again for watching!
@@brungerbuilds if you need a beta tester for the files, please feel free to reach out. I do that for a few groups here and there and I’m happy to help. Work on the game development side of things during the day and hobbyist builder/maker by night. All Star Wars all the time. ❤️
I appreciate the offer! Will do!
Shoot me an email and I’ll do my best to get back to you in the next couple days!
1:50 turning down your support density and/or using tree supports can make supports easier to remove.
Thanks for the tip! Think I gotta find a new slicer cuz AnyCubics stock slicer is kinda lacking haha. For this build in particular though it took up my entire plate and so i had to use those flush supports that kinda bit me in the butt later 😅
@@brungerbuilds a really good slicer that I would recommend is prusaslicer, it has a lot of good features and is easy to use. You should be able to find a settings profile (idk the correct term) for your printer or you can set one up yourself. I’ve also heard orca slicer is good but haven’t tried it
I’ll check it out!
Adam savage needs to see this! He loves a good box
I’d love it to be seen by Adam haha!
Those S shaped plastic welder staples are meant to go in sideways, so that the wire passes through the seam more than once. You can get smaller straight staples for the orientation you used.
Yup! Used them in the proper orientation everywhere but the corners due to them being tight spaces. Figured that shape vertically is still a much stronger hold than a straight staple would be. Thanks for watching!
There’s an Etsy store that sells metal Scomp Link “skeleton keys”, but I don’t know if they actually fit the specific Scomp Interface model you found.
Good to know!
So first off that looks amazing two suggestions though, first is consider getting a starter set of student grade oil paints for weathering, there are some things that acrylics do better but for a general dirt/grease pass you can get a an equivalent if not superior weathering foundation cheap and easy. The second is a bit more niche, if your already going to get the white spirits for the previous suggestion I have seen some amazing results by dusting an area with pigment powders and then applying white spirits to the bottom of that area and letting capillary action draw it up across the powders on the surface, I saw this on a warhammer40k thing where the weathering powders from the base was up on the legs and they used a drop of white spirit as a pigment fixer on the base and was absolutely blown away by the texture of how the weathering powders settled around the knee joints.
Interesting. I’ll have to check that technique out!
Thank you , great job
Thank you for watching!
2 things, i love the look of the somewhat feathered edges of the stenciled sides. this gives it that utilitarian vibe. and second.. using bloody pastels as pigment powder.. .. you telling me i am using expensive AK powder for my minis and i could use pastel chalk? .. sonova..
Dude I know! I got the idea from the channel The Smugglers Room when I was researching pigment powder alternatives. I DID NOT want to pay those prices haha. Thanks for watchin!
BEAUTIFUL! someone should get Adam to feature this on Tested
Thank you! That'd be nuts!
How do you get those turn tables shots where it looks like its floating in a black void.
It’s pretty simple! I shoot on a black backdrop with a motorized lazy susan, and a single source of light above the prop. I then set my camera’s exposure so that it’s as dark as possible while still giving decent exposure to the prop itself.
Then in post, I use curves to crush the image’s blacks just enough to completely remove any detail or digital noise from “the void” while maintaining good exposure on the prop. From there, I slap on my color grade with the final step in the process being a tiny lift on the blacks which gives them a slightly milky appearance. A film grain overlay is then applied to “glue” the whole image together. Hope that helps!
I do think the overspray on the stenciling is good, it makes the box feel mass-manufactured, like someone just slapped the stencil on and sprayed it in because they need to make another 50 of these by the end of the day.
I agree! Thanks for watchin!
THIS IS AMAZING
Thank you!
I am a noob to your channel love it thank you very much.
We will watch your career with great interest
Thanks for watchin!
im not a 3d printing person so im not sure if this would work but could you use tree supports instead of the infill support style?
The box took up the entirety of my build plate so I had no room for tree supports. I probably could’ve decreased the fill amount on the flush supports so that they didn’t cling so well to the box though 😅
Adam Savage would love this :D
Maybe one day he’ll see it 🤞🏼🤓
Amazing!
Thank you!
teflon tape?
Yessir!
I'm enjoying the term "Slippery Washer"
someone hire this guy and pay him loads of money!
One day 🤞🏼🤓
Ok this is really cool
Thanks! 😎
PLEASE let me know any identifying info about that tape you mentioned at 10:23. I’m currently working on a project that would _greatly_ benefit from something like that (too tiny for a bearing but needs to spin smoothly)
Another commenter said its most likely teflon tape!
Shocking that this has less than 7k views
Hopin it keeps climbin 🤞🏼🤓
Nice work! I also expected 500k+ subs. Count me in!
Thank ya!
Poggers video my guy
Thanks!
Some awesome weathering advice I heard from Adam Savage of myth busters and Industrial Light and Magic (made the OG star wars practical effects) is that you should over do paint weathering just barely and then clean it as best as you can, because that's how real life works.
Yep, that’s a great rule of thumb!
That's one fancy toolbox.🐵
The finished product looks like shots of an item inside a star wars video game or movie
Thanks! 🤓