I have a B5 Passat with the Audi 2.8 in her. I am now having to replace the water pump because it failed after only 5 years. Not sure where the mechanic bought it, but along with that, I will replace the timing belt too. I also had to rebuild the passenger side head so I took apart the top end. Let me just warn all Audi owners, there are many rubber hoses under the intake manifold. I found every single hose rotted and in need of replacement. My engine was 20 years old at that time and had 150,000 miles on her. If you are going to pull the front off and get into these older engines, please do yourself a favor and pop of the intake and replace all the hosing. Thanks for the video Dave.
Also the cam chain guides will be weak and brittle at that point. Replace them at 200K km. If one cracks it will fall out and let the cam chain slip. Bye-bye valves.
Thank you so much. Local shops nearby want $3500 to do all that with new hoses, water pump, pulleys, & coolant & so forth. Seems like a weekend task if I get all the tools & parts & rewatch your video a few times. Most of the work labor given that high quality parts are not more than $1000 all said, for another 75,000 miles //
Unless you weekend worth thousands, and you have some metric tools & only need a few special ones, you can buy $300 of special tooling, $500 in parts $200 in spares, then save $1500-2000 on labor. If you spend 10 hours (slow speed) over 2 days, then that's $150/ hr saved, way more than I make as a School Bus Driver // A trained Audi mechanic certified can do this job in 6.5 to 8 hours
I’m about to take the lock carrier off my C5 S6 to do this job and this video has been incredibly helpful. Few more bits on the BBD but really helpful detail and perfect tempo. Thanks Dave!
AC lines on each end and the aux radiator are wrinkles but also need to track down the right electrical connectors. Taking my time indeed! Need to get this puppy back on the road! Thanks again! I’ll need to look into the vacuum filling method you used. Super slick.
Hi Dave, So it’s a month later and in taking out my water pump I did 50% better than you. I broke three bolts instead of just two. 😅. I see you used an induction heater to heat those bolts up and ease them out. Is your block aluminum? I don’t have an induction heater (yet) but my block is aluminum and wasn’t sure if it would work if it’s wasn’t ferrous.
@@daveraymond2265 Great video. I got alot of information. Thank you. I just got a 2002 VW Passat. I think it is almost the same motor. I did not get any information about the car. If I change the timing belt. Do I have to do the chain too. Or just the belt? Thank you
@@philrempel2246 I had a 2003 and did the belt three times. You don't do the chains. The third time I also did the cam cover gaskets and the chain tensioner wear parts. It was years ago so I remember looking at the cams, which at 207,000 miles still looked like new, but I don't remember what I did to replace parts. Glad I didn't have to do the rear seals though. Ours is/was different to this one. There's a hydraulic belt tensioner and a pivoting arm which transfers the pressure from it to a different design of tension roller. The method of timing the engine also involves locking the crank during disassembly, and the cams too during reassembly. I also replaced a bunch of the cooling pipes, and the crank breather system. The valve cover kit on Blauparts is only about $130. I lived in CA, so corrosion wasn't an issue. No broken bolts. You must follow the instructions for flushing the cooling system if you want to get the rated life out of the water pump.
Nice video. Fortunately the C4 doesn't require any front end removal. I have to say I don't think I've ever heard anyone say tension at ten-sun. But that's what is great about the world, is we are a bit different.
Mark the old belt as well as the toothed pulleys and transfer the marks to the new belt, and put the belt in with the pulley and belt marks all aligned to marks on engine , is a good double check ( assuming some one before you didn't screw up) These are non interference engines with a Cam sensor on the left bank only so if the right bank is out a tooth or two you won't get a code - I've had one of these slip some teeth on the Autobahn to the point that the motor would not resart, although stayed runnnig to next service station, but no codes stored....
planning to buy this exact year and motor. Would love to hear advice and what to look for when buying. I have owned several VWs so I know what i am getting into. Car I am looking at has been maintained very well and all records. manual trans and looks great.
So the 97 had the holes for the hydraulic tensioner but didn't use it? No wonder they changed, that tensioning method sucks. The later models, 98 and onwards, all have a hydraulic tensioner and you need to pop the cam pulleys off, with the crank locked, then use a tool to lock the cams in place, apply 7 ft.lbs to the belt tension pulley after releasing the hydraulic tensioner, and then retighten the cam pulley bolts. On the newer ones the bolt on the belt tension pulley does not lock it in place, it can be rotated to apply tension after the mounting bolt has been torqued down. So it wouldn't hold tension without the hydraulic tensioner. The kits for newer vehicles also include the cam and main bearing seals.
Doesn’t sound so scary doing it with a marking pen anymore Mines been a few years sitting and not many miles driven since last wp and belt but Seeing those dry cracks in the belt just haunts me
One mor question, you do not have the fluid driven fan installed, does the car not get too warm? What climat zone do you life in? Being from Bavaria we have it not too hot in the summer.
Hello I have a 98 a4 2.8 Quattro that I’ve owned for 14 years with only 160,000 miles lately it’s been idling kinda rough and the check engine light is on so I’m thinking it’s the o2 sensors and maybe some new plugs and wires what do you think? Thanks
Your car is OBD2 so best to just scan it but I can say rough idle and a light could be many things, mass air flow, crank sensor, cam sensor, vacuum leak, fuel regulator, ect, u really just have to see why the light is on and go from there.
You should change out the plastic cam chain guides at this point too. The plastic is bound to be brittle from age and heat. One crack and one will fall out and let the chain skip. I just did my 98 and two of them fell apart after being removed.
When you find top dead center they will be horizontal. With the belt off they will move independently if you’re not careful. Just make sure you’re on top dead center, that doesn’t move very easily, and the camshafts are horizontal once the belt is on and tight
I just picked up a 1997 Audi A4 Quattro it only has 117k miles I have no idea if the previous owner has done this would think I need to do this service just Incase?
Most times if it has been done by a professional there will be a sticker somewhere under the hood with a date and mileage stating when the belt was replaced. If you don’t see a sticker in plain sight I would assume that it has not been done yet.
@@patrykpatryk8314, yes, you have to fix the camshafts before with a camshaft lock tool for V-engines. After that you can loose the camshaft wheels a little bit while loosing the bolts in front...only 1,5 revolutions! Now you can loose the wheels with a puller til circling free. If it's done, you can tight the timingbelt. After this you attach the bolts from the camshaft wheels. RUclips Video for changing timingbelt on audi 2.6/2.8 v6 Engine: irina25661...audi v6 How to change the timing belt.
It does not have to be perfect, it's not a gear or chain, it is a belt & shortens & stretches a little bit during hot cold cycling. If you consider the angular precision of 1 tooth on a long belt, it's not a Swiss clock movement // he did it fine & proved that it worked!
Man this stinks. Not the video, the vid is great, I'm just doing my valve stem seals since it's sucking down a lot of oil, and needless to say it's going to be... involved.
So my clutch fan broke and the blades punctured my radiator. So I had to order a new radiator as well as new fan motor and blades. I heard you saw you don’t run the fan so I was just wondering if there is any issues like overheating or running hot in general? Would greatly appreciate any insight lol 😊
Thank you for such a thorough process. You gave me confidence attempting myself. 👍👍👍
I have a B5 Passat with the Audi 2.8 in her. I am now having to replace the water pump because it failed after only 5 years. Not sure where the mechanic bought it, but along with that, I will replace the timing belt too. I also had to rebuild the passenger side head so I took apart the top end. Let me just warn all Audi owners, there are many rubber hoses under the intake manifold. I found every single hose rotted and in need of replacement. My engine was 20 years old at that time and had 150,000 miles on her. If you are going to pull the front off and get into these older engines, please do yourself a favor and pop of the intake and replace all the hosing. Thanks for the video Dave.
Also the cam chain guides will be weak and brittle at that point. Replace them at 200K km. If one cracks it will fall out and let the cam chain slip. Bye-bye valves.
I would buy a used vehicle from you,any day. You are so meticulous. You did an amazing job,very well done.
Wow, thank you!
The Best video i have ever seen on RUclips for changing timingbelt on a Audi v6. Thank you for that...
Wow, thanks! Glad you liked it!
Dave ...Thanks an excellent walk through talk through..Just done the cam belt on my 96 Audi A6 C4..Thanks again, much appreciated..
thank u kind sir for this video,amazing job u have done there,not many mechanics out there be so precise as u👍
Good job! You are very thoughtful, logical and precise. Thanks for video!
Thank you so much. Local shops nearby want $3500 to do all that with new hoses, water pump, pulleys, & coolant & so forth. Seems like a weekend task if I get all the tools & parts & rewatch your video a few times. Most of the work labor given that high quality parts are not more than $1000 all said, for another 75,000 miles //
Unless you weekend worth thousands, and you have some metric tools & only need a few special ones, you can buy $300 of special tooling, $500 in parts $200 in spares, then save $1500-2000 on labor. If you spend 10 hours (slow speed) over 2 days, then that's $150/ hr saved, way more than I make as a School Bus Driver // A trained Audi mechanic certified can do this job in 6.5 to 8 hours
You should really use the cam alignment bar to get the cams timed properly. You car is really mint.
This video gave me 100% confidence!!! Im gonna be working on my p4 A4 3.0. A new subscriber to your channel! 👍🏻
Just take your time and don't be in a rush, you'll be fine.
@@daveraymond2265 thanks a lot!! I will! 👍🏻
This took all my fear of doing it, can only imagine it will be easier since I have the tools to lock everything in place 😋
Great video, thanks a lot. I have the same job comimg up on my 2001 A6 2,8. Same engine so this is a great how to guidance.
Excellent Job World Class!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I’m about to take the lock carrier off my C5 S6 to do this job and this video has been incredibly helpful. Few more bits on the BBD but really helpful detail and perfect tempo. Thanks Dave!
It looks like a daunting job but really isn't bad if you take your time. I'm happy to hear this video is helpful.
AC lines on each end and the aux radiator are wrinkles but also need to track down the right electrical connectors. Taking my time indeed! Need to get this puppy back on the road! Thanks again! I’ll need to look into the vacuum filling method you used. Super slick.
Hi Dave, So it’s a month later and in taking out my water pump I did 50% better than you. I broke three bolts instead of just two. 😅. I see you used an induction heater to heat those bolts up and ease them out. Is your block aluminum? I don’t have an induction heater (yet) but my block is aluminum and wasn’t sure if it would work if it’s wasn’t ferrous.
@@daveraymond2265
Great video. I got alot of information. Thank you.
I just got a 2002 VW Passat. I think it is almost the same motor. I did not get any information about the car. If I change the timing belt. Do I have to do the chain too. Or just the belt?
Thank you
@@philrempel2246 I had a 2003 and did the belt three times. You don't do the chains. The third time I also did the cam cover gaskets and the chain tensioner wear parts. It was years ago so I remember looking at the cams, which at 207,000 miles still looked like new, but I don't remember what I did to replace parts. Glad I didn't have to do the rear seals though. Ours is/was different to this one. There's a hydraulic belt tensioner and a pivoting arm which transfers the pressure from it to a different design of tension roller. The method of timing the engine also involves locking the crank during disassembly, and the cams too during reassembly. I also replaced a bunch of the cooling pipes, and the crank breather system. The valve cover kit on Blauparts is only about $130. I lived in CA, so corrosion wasn't an issue. No broken bolts. You must follow the instructions for flushing the cooling system if you want to get the rated life out of the water pump.
Nice video. Fortunately the C4 doesn't require any front end removal. I have to say I don't think I've ever heard anyone say tension at ten-sun. But that's what is great about the world, is we are a bit different.
The ten-suner pulley provides tension lol 👊
❤Good Job very well explain , nice help
Mark the old belt as well as the toothed pulleys and transfer the marks to the new belt, and put the belt in with the pulley and belt marks all aligned to marks on engine , is a good double check ( assuming some one before you didn't screw up) These are non interference engines with a Cam sensor on the left bank only so if the right bank is out a tooth or two you won't get a code - I've had one of these slip some teeth on the Autobahn to the point that the motor would not resart, although stayed runnnig to next service station, but no codes stored....
Thanks for this detaild video! :D
Great tutorial!!
Best video on 2.8 tb Thanks I'm. Subscribed
planning to buy this exact year and motor. Would love to hear advice and what to look for when buying. I have owned several VWs so I know what i am getting into. Car I am looking at has been maintained very well and all records. manual trans and looks great.
So the 97 had the holes for the hydraulic tensioner but didn't use it? No wonder they changed, that tensioning method sucks. The later models, 98 and onwards, all have a hydraulic tensioner and you need to pop the cam pulleys off, with the crank locked, then use a tool to lock the cams in place, apply 7 ft.lbs to the belt tension pulley after releasing the hydraulic tensioner, and then retighten the cam pulley bolts. On the newer ones the bolt on the belt tension pulley does not lock it in place, it can be rotated to apply tension after the mounting bolt has been torqued down. So it wouldn't hold tension without the hydraulic tensioner. The kits for newer vehicles also include the cam and main bearing seals.
thank you very perfect here in Brazil
Doesn’t sound so scary doing it with a marking pen anymore
Mines been a few years sitting and not many miles driven since last wp and belt but Seeing those dry cracks in the belt just haunts me
Muito Bom Parabéns
Good video!
Thanks for watching
You are a great Máster!!!
Thank you very much
One mor question, you do not have the fluid driven fan installed, does the car not get too warm? What climat zone do you life in? Being from Bavaria we have it not too hot in the summer.
The plastic fan blades broke and I never replaced them. Never had an issue I live just outside New York city in the United States
Nice one
Hello I have a 98 a4 2.8 Quattro that I’ve owned for 14 years with only 160,000 miles lately it’s been idling kinda rough and the check engine light is on so I’m thinking it’s the o2 sensors and maybe some new plugs and wires what do you think? Thanks
Your car is OBD2 so best to just scan it but I can say rough idle and a light could be many things, mass air flow, crank sensor, cam sensor, vacuum leak, fuel regulator, ect, u really just have to see why the light is on and go from there.
You should change out the plastic cam chain guides at this point too. The plastic is bound to be brittle from age and heat. One crack and one will fall out and let the chain skip. I just did my 98 and two of them fell apart after being removed.
Please what is the number of the timing belt I could use for mine
Where did you get your kit to buy with all the seals
I google 97 A4 timing belt & water pump kit.
what if I find the dtc, and my camshafts are not horizontal, how can I losen them or how can I get them horizontal without moving my DTC?
When you find top dead center they will be horizontal. With the belt off they will move independently if you’re not careful. Just make sure you’re on top dead center, that doesn’t move very easily, and the camshafts are horizontal once the belt is on and tight
I just picked up a 1997 Audi A4 Quattro it only has 117k miles I have no idea if the previous owner has done this would think I need to do this service just Incase?
Most times if it has been done by a professional there will be a sticker somewhere under the hood with a date and mileage stating when the belt was replaced. If you don’t see a sticker in plain sight I would assume that it has not been done yet.
I have 277,000 miles on my 2.8 and it runs beautifully. I would not hesitate to take it on a 1000 mile trip tomorrow.
@@daveraymond2265 well it hasn’t then
@@daveraymond2265 I will be replacing the radiator it leaks on the driver side
You should change the serpentine-belt tensioner at the same time
It's just a spring, never had an issue to this day.
Is it necessary to remove the bumper and front?
Yes, It is designed to come apart rather easy to perform the service
@@daveraymond2265 okay, thank you! I just replaced the radiator and that was a pain so I'm not looking forward to this.
That's not how it's done properly.
Camshaft wheels have to be loosen up both just to have perfect belt tension overall.
Jep. 👍
It suposed to be loosen because synchronization will be damaged?
@@patrykpatryk8314, yes, you have to fix the camshafts before with a camshaft lock tool for V-engines. After that you can loose the camshaft wheels a little bit while loosing the bolts in front...only 1,5 revolutions! Now you can loose the wheels with a puller til circling free. If it's done, you can tight the timingbelt. After this you attach the bolts from the camshaft wheels.
RUclips Video for changing timingbelt on audi 2.6/2.8 v6 Engine: irina25661...audi v6 How to change the timing belt.
It does not have to be perfect, it's not a gear or chain, it is a belt & shortens & stretches a little bit during hot cold cycling. If you consider the angular precision of 1 tooth on a long belt, it's not a Swiss clock movement // he did it fine & proved that it worked!
@@AaronSchwarz42 Please, don't touch any more engines!
At this point, ill rather just drop the car off to you cause aint no way im doing this
I hear ya 👊
Man this stinks. Not the video, the vid is great, I'm just doing my valve stem seals since it's sucking down a lot of oil, and needless to say it's going to be... involved.
Can see anything. Fix the camara
So my clutch fan broke and the blades punctured my radiator. So I had to order a new radiator as well as new fan motor and blades. I heard you saw you don’t run the fan so I was just wondering if there is any issues like overheating or running hot in general? Would greatly appreciate any insight lol 😊