As always, great video! What would be helpful on a channel like yours with such amazing content would b a page that lists all the videos and a description of what they contain. I am trying to go back to the beginning and watch them all but that is time consuming. For example, I want to watch u moving the front end into service position and c how u deal with the condenser pipes/hoses. Maybe u already have it and I am to stupid to figure it out. The visual explanation on the necessity of the bar was great. Watching the sprockets move around helps us to c why the procedure is necessary. Thank U!!
Hi Bill... you are right, I should catalog things better (like scannerdanner). I've been meaning to do so for quite some time actually. I had done so in the beginning (different play lists) that sort of separated / cataloged videos. I'll try to get to it this year. No need to watch my old old videos... they SUCK big time! LOL
First! lol Lucky customer for sure. Interesting arrangement and a subtle matter you showed about the sprockets and how they move slightly under tension. Bet the engines running much better now. Thanks!
Never seen one done so puts me ahead of the others so thank you for posting it up Thomas. Does your shop buy the OEM VW tools or do you use pattern tools please?
I buy what I think is a good deal from aftermarket tool suppliers (Amazon, eBay etc) or from the tool truck. I also buy from the official VW/Audi tool sources: vw.snapon.com/OnlineCatalog.aspx audi.snapon.com/Home.aspx
I didn't loosen the 2 cam sprockets when I did the timing belt about 20k ago and I'm now getting a 17748 code. I am going to try and get down to the timing belt and loosen the sprockets. Just ordered the bar to align them
That is one lucky customer to have that timing out that far and not bent his valves. And why would the person before only change a belt and leave all the other stuff in there, I can never figure that out. To do the job right, you've got to have all of those tools for sure.
A little late - just getting caught up. That's where a lower quote gets the job and the old parts reused . LOL. I wonder how much for a engine . 3-5K I'd guess.
I get them in the shop all the time that people tried to do a timing belt job without the crossbar, usually one or two teeth out, haven't seen one that far out without bending a few intake valves! they were lucky.
The locking bar is a must. Even a good mechanic/technician is going to have a terribly hard and long time trying to time it exactly right without it. But with it, for a reasonably competent hobby mechanic with a service manual on hand, it takes the job difficulty from a 11/10 down to maybe a 6/10. It'll still be time-consuming, so its really not worth the risk reusing parts, and this is not the time for eyeballing anything. Also - if you have any sign of cam seal leakage - this is the time to deal with it. And you'll need pullers. Given how many VAGs use this setup, many shops will have this tool, including non-dealerships, and you can usually find one willing to rent it (the locking bar) out to you.
Yes, good point. Seals & thermostat, serpentine belt tensioner... it makes sense to replace as much as possible, to avoid having to go back in there again at a later time.
Thomas interesting video. Some Renaults have a simular set up and have said on that no account must a belt be fitted without spinning the cam pulleys.However they now have a problem with the cam bolt snapping when you try to loosen the cam bolts. Now they recommend that you dont loosen the cam bolts. Because you cant get the broken bolts out of the camshaft,so now you need to replace the camshafts. Question. Do you have problems with these Vw/Audi engines snapping the top of the valves off ? I have seen a few of these here. Many thanks great video.
Over the years we have seen many V6 engines, but have never had one come in with complete belt failure / valve damage. We are seeing fewer V6 engines these days... guess people are more sensitive to the fuel usage, or the vehicles are dying out due to lack of care.
Great video, ... my water pump started leaking today and I was wondering if you could recommend a good brand for timing belt kits I live in US and I use FCP euro allot for parts on my 99 a4 2.8... thanks
would this be the possible cause of a misfire, i have a 2002 A8 with the 2.8 v6 (AMX engine code), its been suffering from a misfire on cylinder ( constant ), random/multiple misfire code, and on the odd occasion it will through a code for cylinder 5 misfire, i currently have the car in the service position in a workshop, the cam sprockets DO NOT line up enough for the cam lock bar to fit them both, the engine is at TDC, lock pin in place etc, its not an aggressive misfire, i.e the car still runs and drives, theres no unwanted noise how ever it is running a little rough and as iv said before it shows codes for cylinder 1 misfire, random/multiple misfire and sometimes cylinder 5 misfire but very rare
If they have access to the front now... let them loosen the cam gears and rotate the camshafts until the alignment tool fits. No need to remove timing belt. The only other thing that needs to be checked, is the chain / links between intake & exhaust camshafts. If the cam lock tool big & small holes are in the wrong place, you have to rotate the crankshaft 1 full turn and reinstall the crank lock. The crankshaft rotates 2 times for every 1 camshaft rotation.
best tip in the video "don't reuse parts", always change whole timing set, also don't use cheap junk aftermarket parts or the same thing can occur! very lucky it didn't kill the engine, but I wonder if there's could be any tweaked valves
Hi, can ask how do you reset the can timing when there is no marks on the pulleys ? I had the left bank jump due to some debre ie small plastic from the cover go down to the crank gear. Car stalled instantly and have put belt back on turns over fine but now the cam timing is out ? Thanks in advance.
Is there any of your videos of where u show how to put the came back in time? I pull over to fill up the tank n my car didn't start I tow it home n check spark n fuel sensors n everything seems to be working so I took everything apart n found out that belt moved n was getting destroyed by touching the metal n the driver side camshaft was point up like on this car so I know is out of time but I wanna put it back in time to test the car n if it needs a valve job then I'll trash the car
I have a coolant leak coming from somewhere above the alternator, and the weird thing is it only leaks when the car has been sitting long enough to cool down completely. Any ideas? Some mention a "auxillary water pump", no idea where that is or what it looks like. My TB kit has only 30k km on it, im not exactly happy about the idea of shelling out 200+€ for a new one. Obviously i would replace the belt itself, but i dont see a reason to replace the other components if they are good. Genuinely shocked by how far off timing that engine was, good thing you could save it.
Was the thermostat also replaced? The thermostat housing is quite long and slanted. Could be that coolant is leaking from it and running along the housing, then dripping onto the alternator. Or it could be the radiator hose that attaches to the housing. Move the radiator into service position and remove the serpentine belt & the timing belt covers to get a better look.
@@EXOVCDS It was replaced. From what i read these cars can have either a plastic or aluminium thermostat housing and the plastic ones are prone to failure. If thats all i have to do to get the timing covers off i'll definetly look into it. I wonder what i will find in there, the shop that did the belt service didnt exactly look like one that would have a tool 3391 laying around if you know what i mean... i dont trust lithuanian mechanics...
It is always best to set the engine to TDC... the camshafts will then be aligned with the markings on the bearing caps (which makes installation easier & more accurate). Follow the steps in the service manual and all will be fine.
Depending on how far out the cams are... rotating the cam(s) while one of the cylinders is at TDC, could result in valves hitting the piston. Valve damage could have already taken place when the belt broke. Turn the crank slightly off of TDC, so that all cylinders are slightly below TDC, then rotate the cams until the locking bar fits. Turn the crank back to TDC and lock it into place. Loosen the cam sprockets (they need to be free to turn when the belt is installed & tightened. Tighten the new belt, tighten the cam sprockets, remove the locking tools and rotate the engine 2 turns. If you do not feel compression when turning the crankshaft / engine (or you feel some compression sometimes, then there are probably some bent valves. You can run / start the engine while the radiator is in service position... just needs to run 10 to 30 seconds to determine if she runs rough or not.
@@EXOVCDS i have the tools to lock the camshafts and crankshaft which I Will use, but i had a hard time placing the camshaft locking tool, looks like they're disaligned when the crankshaft pulley marking is at TDC. I'll try using the crankshaft locking tool first, then maybe align camshafts? (The timing belt is still on, and there are no codes in vcds currently)
@@EXOVCDS yep, definately, the last mechanic placed the belt 1 or 2 teeth off, i placed the crankshaft locking nut and i can't align the cams with the tool, when I align the cams, the crankshaft is not aligned anymore. Is it normal that the car ran ok? Or am I missing something.
Which engine code? ATQ? Cam position sensors are on the intake cams. It's possible to have exhaust cams timed wrong but intakes ok... but then the cams would have to be out of alignment / sync (intake to exhaust). If you get cam codes after using cam & crank lock, you'll have to check intake to exhaust sync (16 links between cams and cam marks need to align with arrows on bearing caps).
@@EXOVCDS engine code is AGA it's a 2.4L. Right now there are no codes in vcds. Never have been. I'm scared aligning the cams with the tool will trigger them or make the car stop working. I'm not a professional, I'm just following guides online. Intake and exhaust is synced with the chains in the back of the engine? Thanks for responding.
I have a 1998 Audi a4 2.8l v6 30 valve. I was doing the timing belt and doing the regular maintenance and when i tried to release the cam gear from the shaft it moved the shaft almost half a turn, i don't know how to put it back into the right place in time with the other side. please help me out, and respond quick thank you!!!!!!! btw I am not from Canada I watch your videos and I saw in this video ruclips.net/video/T15un32tKlE/видео.html showing some tips and tricks. But I saw the car kinda has the same problem as me but I did it while working on the car. my car was perfectly in time and was TDC. I just don't know how to put the cam gear back in place.
I replied to your email a few minutes ago... I just got home. No need to post / contact me via multiple social media channels. For the benefit to others, here's my reply: If the cam gears are loose / free to spin... use the cam locking bar to move the camshaft back to TDC. Attach the locking bar to the camshaft that has turned (by placing the bar pins into the camshaft plate) and then move the bar to the TDC position (where it can engage the other camshaft). I can't reply during work hours... sorry about the late reply, I just got home.
I even learned a lot from that. Never thought about the cam moving.
Thank you for sharing. I have to replace my timing belt in about 30k and this was a great tip.
Let me know if you need service info!
Perfektní práce, dělat rozvody bez sundání nárazníku jsem ještě neviděl, máte mé uznání a palec nahoru.
Děkuji za sledování
Thanks Thomas this is my engine so I am very happy with this info!
Sometimes... things fall into place. =)
That's one lucky customer! Good save
Very lucky!
This could actually sooooo be me :-/ :-))
As always, great video! What would be helpful on a channel like yours with such amazing content would b a page that lists all the videos and a description of what they contain. I am trying to go back to the beginning and watch them all but that is time consuming. For example, I want to watch u moving the front end into service position and c how u deal with the condenser pipes/hoses. Maybe u already have it and I am to stupid to figure it out. The visual explanation on the necessity of the bar was great. Watching the sprockets move around helps us to c why the procedure is necessary. Thank U!!
Hi Bill... you are right, I should catalog things better (like scannerdanner). I've been meaning to do so for quite some time actually. I had done so in the beginning (different play lists) that sort of separated / cataloged videos. I'll try to get to it this year. No need to watch my old old videos... they SUCK big time! LOL
Thomas EXOVCDS No they don't. And will continue to watch. Treasure of info
First! lol Lucky customer for sure. Interesting arrangement and a subtle matter you showed about the sprockets and how they move slightly under tension. Bet the engines running much better now. Thanks!
Yes it does... was "sluggish" for a few weeks! =)
Never seen one done so puts me ahead of the others so thank you for posting it up Thomas.
Does your shop buy the OEM VW tools or do you use pattern tools please?
I buy what I think is a good deal from aftermarket tool suppliers (Amazon, eBay etc) or from the tool truck. I also buy from the official VW/Audi tool sources:
vw.snapon.com/OnlineCatalog.aspx
audi.snapon.com/Home.aspx
I didn't loosen the 2 cam sprockets when I did the timing belt about 20k ago and I'm now getting a 17748 code. I am going to try and get down to the timing belt and loosen the sprockets. Just ordered the bar to align them
Don't forget to sync with the crankshaft... lock the crank at TDC so that you are 100% sure everything is in time. Keep me posted.
That is one lucky customer to have that timing out that far and not bent his valves. And why would the person before only change a belt and leave all the other stuff in there, I can never figure that out. To do the job right, you've got to have all of those tools for sure.
The customer has only had the car for a year or so... had no real history on the vehicle. He'll be sure to follow our recommendations from now on. =)
Yikes! That roller was shot, nice save. Great tips along the way too.
Thanks!
Never did a V6 . Nice tips ! Thanks.
I like these... but we don't get that many in the shop anymore. =(
A little late - just getting caught up. That's where a lower quote gets the job and the old parts reused . LOL. I wonder how much for a engine . 3-5K I'd guess.
So this is standard for all timing belt jobs on that engine? Needing those special tools?
Yeah... but people do the job without them. Can be done, but will not be as accurate as it could be.
I get them in the shop all the time that people tried to do a timing belt job without the crossbar, usually one or two teeth out, haven't seen one that far out without bending a few intake valves! they were lucky.
TDI engines are even more sensitive and I see it on those as well.
The locking bar is a must. Even a good mechanic/technician is going to have a terribly hard and long time trying to time it exactly right without it. But with it, for a reasonably competent hobby mechanic with a service manual on hand, it takes the job difficulty from a 11/10 down to maybe a 6/10. It'll still be time-consuming, so its really not worth the risk reusing parts, and this is not the time for eyeballing anything. Also - if you have any sign of cam seal leakage - this is the time to deal with it. And you'll need pullers. Given how many VAGs use this setup, many shops will have this tool, including non-dealerships, and you can usually find one willing to rent it (the locking bar) out to you.
Yes, good point. Seals & thermostat, serpentine belt tensioner... it makes sense to replace as much as possible, to avoid having to go back in there again at a later time.
Thomas interesting video.
Some Renaults have a simular set up and have said on that no account must a belt be fitted without spinning the cam pulleys.However they now have a problem with the cam bolt snapping when you try to loosen the cam bolts. Now they recommend that you dont loosen the cam bolts.
Because you cant get the broken bolts out of the camshaft,so now you need to replace the camshafts.
Question. Do you have problems with these Vw/Audi engines snapping the top of the valves off ?
I have seen a few of these here.
Many thanks great video.
Over the years we have seen many V6 engines, but have never had one come in with complete belt failure / valve damage. We are seeing fewer V6 engines these days... guess people are more sensitive to the fuel usage, or the vehicles are dying out due to lack of care.
Great video, ... my water pump started leaking today and I was wondering if you could recommend a good brand for timing belt kits I live in US and I use FCP euro allot for parts on my 99 a4 2.8... thanks
Whatever FCP Euro stocks will be fine... they wouldn't stock it if it wasn't decent quality.
@@EXOVCDS thanks
would this be the possible cause of a misfire, i have a 2002 A8 with the 2.8 v6 (AMX engine code), its been suffering from a misfire on cylinder ( constant ), random/multiple misfire code, and on the odd occasion it will through a code for cylinder 5 misfire, i currently have the car in the service position in a workshop, the cam sprockets DO NOT line up enough for the cam lock bar to fit them both, the engine is at TDC, lock pin in place etc, its not an aggressive misfire, i.e the car still runs and drives, theres no unwanted noise how ever it is running a little rough and as iv said before it shows codes for cylinder 1 misfire, random/multiple misfire and sometimes cylinder 5 misfire but very rare
If they have access to the front now... let them loosen the cam gears and rotate the camshafts until the alignment tool fits. No need to remove timing belt.
The only other thing that needs to be checked, is the chain / links between intake & exhaust camshafts.
If the cam lock tool big & small holes are in the wrong place, you have to rotate the crankshaft 1 full turn and reinstall the crank lock.
The crankshaft rotates 2 times for every 1 camshaft rotation.
best tip in the video "don't reuse parts", always change whole timing set, also don't use cheap junk aftermarket parts or the same thing can occur! very lucky it didn't kill the engine, but I wonder if there's could be any tweaked valves
throttle bottle Saving money isn't always saving money... I always say.
Hi, can ask how do you reset the can timing when there is no marks on the pulleys ? I had the left bank jump due to some debre ie small plastic from the cover go down to the crank gear. Car stalled instantly and have put belt back on turns over fine but now the cam timing is out ? Thanks in advance.
You need the camshaft locking bar.
Is there any of your videos of where u show how to put the came back in time?
I pull over to fill up the tank n my car didn't start I tow it home n check spark n fuel sensors n everything seems to be working so I took everything apart n found out that belt moved n was getting destroyed by touching the metal n the driver side camshaft was point up like on this car so I know is out of time but I wanna put it back in time to test the car n if it needs a valve job then I'll trash the car
Angel Contreras Follow this:
www.blauparts.com/vw_timing_belt_replacement/28l30v/howto/how_to_replace_vw_passat_timing_belt_installation_guide.html
I have a coolant leak coming from somewhere above the alternator, and the weird thing is it only leaks when the car has been sitting long enough to cool down completely. Any ideas? Some mention a "auxillary water pump", no idea where that is or what it looks like.
My TB kit has only 30k km on it, im not exactly happy about the idea of shelling out 200+€ for a new one. Obviously i would replace the belt itself, but i dont see a reason to replace the other components if they are good.
Genuinely shocked by how far off timing that engine was, good thing you could save it.
Was the thermostat also replaced? The thermostat housing is quite long and slanted. Could be that coolant is leaking from it and running along the housing, then dripping onto the alternator. Or it could be the radiator hose that attaches to the housing. Move the radiator into service position and remove the serpentine belt & the timing belt covers to get a better look.
@@EXOVCDS It was replaced. From what i read these cars can have either a plastic or aluminium thermostat housing and the plastic ones are prone to failure.
If thats all i have to do to get the timing covers off i'll definetly look into it.
I wonder what i will find in there, the shop that did the belt service didnt exactly look like one that would have a tool 3391 laying around if you know what i mean... i dont trust lithuanian mechanics...
@@Scouter98 Keep me updated.
Hello do you have video on cam chain tensioner for bank 2 on 2001 be Passat 2.8L ?
I'm trying to figure out if the car has to be on DTC first ?
It is always best to set the engine to TDC... the camshafts will then be aligned with the markings on the bearing caps (which makes installation easier & more accurate). Follow the steps in the service manual and all will be fine.
Very nice, good job!
How are the valves not damaged if it was that much out of time?
The cams were only out maybe 2 teeth each... the locking bar makes it look worse, due to its length.
how would i set the cams if the belt actually snapped? Should I just use the long silver tool to re align? i already have the crank at TDC.
Depending on how far out the cams are... rotating the cam(s) while one of the cylinders is at TDC, could result in valves hitting the piston. Valve damage could have already taken place when the belt broke. Turn the crank slightly off of TDC, so that all cylinders are slightly below TDC, then rotate the cams until the locking bar fits. Turn the crank back to TDC and lock it into place. Loosen the cam sprockets (they need to be free to turn when the belt is installed & tightened. Tighten the new belt, tighten the cam sprockets, remove the locking tools and rotate the engine 2 turns. If you do not feel compression when turning the crankshaft / engine (or you feel some compression sometimes, then there are probably some bent valves. You can run / start the engine while the radiator is in service position... just needs to run 10 to 30 seconds to determine if she runs rough or not.
Then it should be straightforward (when you assemble everything). Let me know how it went / goes.
Can i just mark the old belt in the sprockets and then mark the new one and put it in?
Whatever you feel comfortable with.
To guarantee that no fault codes set, it's best to follow service manual information / procedure.
@@EXOVCDS i have the tools to lock the camshafts and crankshaft which I Will use, but i had a hard time placing the camshaft locking tool, looks like they're disaligned when the crankshaft pulley marking is at TDC. I'll try using the crankshaft locking tool first, then maybe align camshafts?
(The timing belt is still on, and there are no codes in vcds currently)
@@EXOVCDS yep, definately, the last mechanic placed the belt 1 or 2 teeth off, i placed the crankshaft locking nut and i can't align the cams with the tool, when I align the cams, the crankshaft is not aligned anymore. Is it normal that the car ran ok? Or am I missing something.
Which engine code? ATQ? Cam position sensors are on the intake cams. It's possible to have exhaust cams timed wrong but intakes ok... but then the cams would have to be out of alignment / sync (intake to exhaust).
If you get cam codes after using cam & crank lock, you'll have to check intake to exhaust sync (16 links between cams and cam marks need to align with arrows on bearing caps).
@@EXOVCDS engine code is AGA it's a 2.4L. Right now there are no codes in vcds. Never have been. I'm scared aligning the cams with the tool will trigger them or make the car stop working. I'm not a professional, I'm just following guides online. Intake and exhaust is synced with the chains in the back of the engine? Thanks for responding.
Very lucky customer !
Indeed!
Can u do timeing chain on 3.6 vw toureg
Watch this:
ruclips.net/video/035Guv51Ktg/видео.html
Missing your new videos Thomas :(
Thank you... but have you already watched all my 1600+ videos? =)
Jeez you sure don't see that seafoam green around much anymore!
Teal! =)
I have a Skoda actovia. diesal
I have 2 BMW E34's.
I have a 1998 Audi a4 2.8l v6 30 valve. I was doing the timing belt and doing the regular maintenance and when i tried to release the cam gear from the shaft it moved the shaft almost half a turn, i don't know how to put it back into the right place in time with the other side. please help me out, and respond quick thank you!!!!!!!
btw I am not from Canada I watch your videos and I saw in this video ruclips.net/video/T15un32tKlE/видео.html showing some tips and tricks. But I saw the car kinda has the same problem as me but I did it while working on the car. my car was perfectly in time and was TDC. I just don't know how to put the cam gear back in place.
I replied to your email a few minutes ago... I just got home. No need to post / contact me via multiple
social media channels.
For the benefit to others, here's my reply:
If the cam gears are loose / free to spin... use the cam locking bar
to move the camshaft back to TDC. Attach the locking bar to the
camshaft that has turned (by placing the bar pins into the camshaft
plate) and then move the bar to the TDC position (where it can
engage the other camshaft).
I can't reply during work hours... sorry about the late reply, I
just got home.