The last one is maybe the most important. Practically all bikes are not faced out of the factory Also dont just spray degreaser all over the drive train. I really ruined my BB doing that...
Why do people think about such.. you can get one from China with ceramic bearings for about 15,- eur.. you don't even need to grease them.. Buy 10 pcs now if you're afraid they won't last 😁
I remove the cranks once a month, clean everything up and lube. On dub BB don't set the plastic preload ring too tight, people often tighten it up "hand tight" skipping the fine adjustment needed it just needs to stop play, not tightened...
Main one is to use square taper - no creaking, no preload bolts, no NM wrenches, no bird-testicles sized bearings that worn out after one summer, no 50 different types of fit, just 2 types of thread.
3 of my bikes have the old Shimano single-piece cartridge bottom bracket (square taper) that have done tens of thousands of miles over the past 20 years and are still as smooth as ever. Probably heavier than current BBs but definitely more durable.
The square taper is pretty bomb proof but yes they can often be heavy and not super smooth. If you're looking for a super reliable fit and forget part the square taper is great 🙌
Technically, a BB should never have to be replaced if it is legit to begin with.. IMO, its upright climbing that truly destroys them.. Bicycles were never designed to be ridden standing up, thats why theres a seat.. One of my bikes has well over 30,000 miles on it same BB no issues...
@@gcntech I’ve got a Token brand JSI square taper cartridge BB with aluminum cups, titanium spindle, and cartridge bearings (could have paid more for ceramic bearings). Very light and very smooth. You have to search a little to find them on line, but they are out there.
Okay, as long time rider who has worked on many bikes, the answer for many people is quite simple. Any water getting in the the frame will always go to lowest spot and ruin things. Back in the day we drilled a small hole in the bottom of the bracket at the lowest point to let the water run back out if the frame did not already have one. Water loves to go from the seat post clamp slot into the frame. It doesn't matter what material the frame is made of, a small hole will not weaken the frame. This also helps with corrosion on all the other parts of the bottom bracket, not just the bearings. Cinelli actually patented a ventilated bottom bracket using negative air pressure to keep it dry. Cheers from Florida.
Agreed. It was a stock job on the hand built steel frames I used to build into bikes in my early life in bike workshops. One hole for cable guide, one for “ventilation”.
@@gcntech all frames should have a drainage hole for sure. The other example is deep section wheels: if they don't have drainage holes - after very rainy ride you can easly pour a glass of water from two wheels. And even if you don't ride in rain at all - water can be found inside the frame because of the condensate. So if you ride in rainy conditions and don't have drainage hole - drill it.
Hambini makes BB gauges to check for the aperture of bottom bracket holes. They're a cheap and easy way to diagnose a frame manufacturing defect. He also recommends NTN bearings, which are the best you can get before getting in stupidly diminishing return territory. Pretty cool to see frame manufacturing tolerances being mentioned on GCN :)
I had 2 canyons grail and neuron . Bottom bracket worned out after 1500km.😢 little to fast imo. No pressure hose used. Luckally 30euro fix and i improved bike mech skills 😅
I have an older bike that doesn't get ridden much anymore. Back in the day I was riding 7-8,000 mi/yr, so it must have over 50k mi on it. An original Phill Wood sealed BB. Still smooth, quiet, and tight. I have never pressure washed the bike, hose only.
Showing my age here but many of the old Campag Record BBs from the mid 80s with the tapered square shape are still going strong. The axle actually had a corkscrew detail that pushed water away from the bearings. Also the bearing seals probably added some drag but they actually worked. Call me a conspiracy theorist but I do think poor materials are a deliberate ploy so that we replace components more frequently. I had to replace the SRAM BB on my gravel bike every six months and the frame is fine tolerance and alignment wise. Now running Shimano GRX chainset without issue for almost 18 months 😮
I bought my first Campagnolo Record crank in 2005 and then found a great deal on a spare BB so I ordered one which is still sitting pristinely in it's original packing in my parts bin and yes the original BB is still in use
I make sure to apply plenty of grease to the part of the seat post that sits inside the frame, and wipe off excess grease on the outside. This helps prevent water from getting inside and travelling down to the BB where it causes issues. I'm also careful not to spray degreaser or soapy water around the BB, even low pressure, never mind jet wash! Same goes for headset and rear hub.
Alex (for us novices), it might have been nice to have actually known what was wrong with that BB? Sounded clean and seemed to rotate just fine with no obvious lateral slip/knock
You should not be hearing that whirring sound - it means the bearings have no grease and are probably out of round from being used in that state. Like he said, the bike has experienced a lot of dirt and grit and then he used a power washer to clean it (the bottom bracket), blasting out much of the grease and pushing dirt further into it, basically making a sand paper consistency that has destroyed the bearings.
And just like that, with a single (albeit long) sentence Alex has destroyed both the dirt cheap and the crazy expensive segments of the after-market BB industry.
If it's not sealed bearing, you can actually regrease it fairly easy which is the case for the Canyon bike featured on this video. Just take crankset out, remove the bearing cover and regrease from time to time.
I miss the old cup-and-cone bottom brackets with the solid spindle that weighed about a kilo (my memory may be faulty). Clean and relube periodically was fairly trivial. Even new bearing balls if you wanted to splurge. But I must say the "new" stuff is quite durable for being zero maintenance. My hollowtech lasted about 10 years before giving up. I still keep my cone wrenches for sentimental value.
There was nothing quite like spending hours and hours to get the bearings just right on an old BB! We have to say, as great as they were and look, just like you say, a Shimano Hollowtech BB can go on for a very long time. Whereas it felt like we had to look at cup-and-cone BB's more often!
Just using stock Dura-Ace and Campag BB's on my bikes, I haven't had any issues.. I'd like a Hambini replacement if I ever need one, but with 20k plus km on each BB, neither has had issues.
I cut two protective rings from a silicone baking mat. put it on the shaft and the lower bracket is protected. Manufacturers have very poor basic bearing protection.
I like to clean my bb bearings every few months even though most ppl say to just get new ones. I'm not worried about fractions of a watt, and I like how it's smooth. I used to remove the inner seal of the bearings and run thin oil but it's too high maintenance
That's only OK if you're doing a single-day race in dry conditions, where you can go a bit overboard for friction reduction. After all, you're only racing for a short time.
@@gcntech Of course the manufacturers could make components more fixable, however, that doesn't equate to more profits for them. Bikes used to be much more DIY friendly. There seems to be a never ending spiral of hightech mindset for the sake of lighter and more complicated. Bike mechanicals used to be fairly straight forward. Bring back common sense and good quality for an affordable price. This will help not hinder the bike industry. 99% of us don't need aerospace tech to enjoy the benefits of riding, even at a competitive level.
I wore out a 7800BB after 65,000 miles, and had the bright idea to try to overhaul it. Total disassembly included carefully removing seals, cleaning, and regreasing, that took me over an hour, that turned out to be wasted effort. Oh well, it was fun to do.
in my opinion, besides not pressure-washing your bike/BB area (it's the same reason i would never pressure-wash an engine bay in a car), the type of BB makes a difference; a single-piece shell-type BB (i.e., bbinfinite) makes the most sense in any non-threaded BB shell. it means correct bearing alignment, and no creaking - and will overcome uneven facing issues. and, as alex mentioned (wait.... who's that??), you don't need to spend loads of money on ceramic bearings. just take care of them.... they WILL wear out, but they will last longer if you take care of them.
Do take note that not every frame with a PressFit BB shell can take a one-piece BB if the obstruction is impossible to get rid of, like the aluminium Propel. The only threaded BB standard that can take a one-piece BB is the T47 range (T47 outboard, T47 inboard & T47-A) as the BB shell's internal diameter is large enough for BBInfinite to design the module to be a one-piece unit.
Water stuck inside the frame can also trash the bearings. Jet washing around the top of some seatposts, cable and wire entry points can work to the lowest point on the frame.
This is the first GCN Tech video in 3.5 years that has made me question stuff, AND made me nervous. YOU'RE SAYING that people are changing their BB's every YEAR? OR more? I've got a 3 year old Gen 1 Grail, GRX Di2, about 6,500 miles on it. I've done some races and dusty gravel, but most of the miles are rough farm roads, only caught in the rain 3 times. Washed and cleaned every 2-3 weeks or when needed. I've not HEARD anything that sounds bad or "dry" ... Am I supposed to do this? This makes me nervous for my planned summer of events.
Why? There's plenty of bikes still made with them, and they're coming back, as bike designers (who are no longer engineers) have been hit over the head enough times by people complaining about their trash pressfit variants.
@@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 I know there are, but they are not widely available to everyone. For instance if I want a midend bike in my region, I’m limited to the big famous brands and two locals that only copy the big ones.
Buy a bike with threaded 1.37" x 24 tpi fitting, buy a Chris King BB, buy the service tool, use quality grease at regular intervals, and you have a BB for decades, if not for life. The one in my road bike has been in 3 other frames, outlasting them all.
Had to replace a press fit BB on my Giant TCR after 15,000. Replaced with Dura Ace that is now at 60,000 with no problem. Cannondale on the other hand..... On number three after only 10,000 - hoping a better version of the internal bearings will last better this time.
Just few days ago I learned that my Trek Emonda uses what every bike mechanic says is the worst bottom bracket ever - BB90. Bearing is pressed directly into the carbon frame and tends to widen the bearing seat in the frame, which might be exactly my issue...
Don't stress over it. Just do all repairs with retaining compound and not grease and pray that you got one with decent bearing holes and you will be fine.
Facing a CF frame's BB? Fools rush in where angels fear to tread . . . you need something other that the standard cutters on a mandrel. I turned some out of wood and made disposable sandpaper discs (glued on) to fit it, because I didn't want to spend $500 on the Park Tool add-ons to their BB facing and threading tool for metal frames. & I run a bike workshop.
I seem to get two years/8000 miles all weather rides. I find if you keep using a part that needs replacing, it has more life in it, but if you leave it in the garage for a few weeks, it begins to seize up
@@gcntech yes. I mainly find my kids bikes pick up problems when not used. Also waxing your chain removes the risk of chain degreaser getting into your bb
I would say most bike shops can absolutely NOT measure or fix a carbon bottom bracket shell. Not even the manufacturer can fix a carbon bottom bracket shell. The fix is a replacement frame. If the only problem you have is facing, which is unlikely to be the only problem if your bottom bracket is being destroyed in months, a bike shop wouldn't be able to face the frame without voiding the warranty. Unless the bike shop was authorized and instructed by the manufacturer to face the frame, it can't be done. If your bike shop is good, then they will help you open the warranty claim and vouch for your case. If the bike shop is not good, then they'll turn you away saying it's user error. Unfortunately when you have a bad frame, you're at the mercy of the shop and manufacturer. Out-of-spec bottom bracket shell is hard to prove, and there's lots of room for the bike shop or manufacturer to deny responsibility.
I think you can also create a video on how to install a Bottom Bracket may it be Hollow Tech or Square Tapered? Since it has to be properly installed with the right amount of torque. As well as bottom bracket maintenance. How to clean the bearings. Replace the bearings.etc.
Is that really worn, or just making a little noise. Looked to spin freely. How’s the play? I appreciate you guys are looking at it as high demand and/or ‘supported’ riders…. But how much does a little noise hinder casual riders? When is it a function or safety issue?
It's making sound without load on the pedals. It's trashed. If it's your commuter then you can probably live with it for a couple hundred kms more. But if you are interested in being fast, then you have a 15usd replacement to make.
@@petersouthernboy6327 You missed the point. There was no play being shown at all. It was running smooth and unhindered. Noise can be contamination or lack of lubrication. Even sealed bearings can have the seals removed and repacked. It is not necessarily only wear causing noise.
My Grizl BB was cracked and had to be replaced within a couple hundred miles and still creaks after replacing. Never had any problem with any other bike with many thousands of miles more. If this is a common problem, Canyon are definitely doing something wrong.
Okay, as long time rider who has worked on many bikes, the answer for many people is quite simple. Any water getting in the the frame will always go to lowest spot and ruin things. Back in the day we drilled a small hole in the bottom of the bracket at the lowest point to let the water run back out if the frame did not already have one.
Id prefer cranks had steel axles instead of alloy as an alloy axle running on steel bearings wears the axle out very quickly. I dont mind extra chainset weight for better longevity.
Thanks Alex, very informative video. Unfortunately I think my Bianchi suffers from a manufacturing default and I've had to change the BB more often than normal. Very annoying.
If the bearings can't spin smoothly when installed even when they're new, you have an undersized BB bore, which leads to premature bearing wear due to excessive radial compression. Reaming it is the solution.
#ASKGCNTECH Hi Alex. Thanks for the video and the helpful information. My new bike has a press fit BB. I am familiar with maintenance and care for threaded BB's, but not so much for press fit. Can you speak more directly to the care and maintenance of press fit BB's? Thanks in advance.
I got into BB #4 at 18,300km with the shortest one lasting 2000km. The current solution from the bike shop was to switch from 30mm spindle to 24mm to have more space allocated to the bearings. Outside of tires the BB is the component I've replaced most.
hi, thanks for the comment. There is not a specific time/distance when it needs to be replaced. The best way is to check that there is no rocking through the cranks, and that it is not making any noises or feeling rough. If in doubt, we would always recommend checking with your local bike shop. This video can help explain what to look for regarding when to replace the bottom bracket > ruclips.net/video/tmCUqu4c81U/видео.htmlsi=l-s1RanmHex_1tlt&t=98 👍
@@gcntech Maybe its better than having so much standarts that probably will be abandoned soon because non of them really much better each other, anyway all finishes at poor tolerances in frames that costs fev k bucks. At least I don't think that this loss in weight and stiffness really so much matter for 99% of your audience who are not participating in races.
Good stuff, not boring at all Alex. So, is your bottom bracket worn out through the large amount of work it has done or is your canyon bike defective. What are the most reliable brands and types of brackets?
Some people have replaced bearings in their Shimano BBs before. As far as I'm aware, all Shimano-spec BBs use either 6805 bearings with top hats or 2437 bearings (6805 bearings, but with a 24 mm I.D).
On SRAM you can press the bearings out and replace, I used to replace with NTN bearings back in my bearing nerd phase, now I just get a new Enduro cup and swap it out cause I can't tell the difference between any bearing setup on my feet.
Mine has lasted now for 6 years, and still works fine. Jillaroo bike My pro tip would be to never clean it. Worked for me, though the intention was theft protection, not bottom bracket protection.
I kept what I thought was a Shimano XT bottom bracket (it was just an average Shimano one) in my bike for 15 years. When it went, I couldn't even turn the crank.
I ride for more than 40 years. Many steel, aluminum and carbon bikes. The latest is 12yrs old. Never had a BB problem. Only heard about it on youtube 😂
I’ve been riding Time road bikes with Campagnolo cranks for the past 15 years. I ride about 4000-5000 miles per year and change the grease 1-2 times per year. I’ve yet to wear the bearings out. Chainrings and chains? Yes. Fresh lube is your friend.
Replace the frame and fork and brake set. Tip: Stick with rim brakes unless there is a particular reason you need discs, like, you're descending mountains.
WD-40 ... Water displacement experiment number 40... If you wet your bike spray it down with WD-40 it also is temporary lubricant but that is not the main job ... I use wd bike chain lube., I use the gel lube for my car like suspension and alot of other things
Unfortunately, I have to change mine every few months. The main contributor is tough use combined with the fact it is a 30mm shaft leaving little room for bearings. I have considered changing to crank with smaller diameter to use bigger bearings however I have ended up with packing them generously with grease and settle that I must change the brackets 3-4 times a year.
@@gcntechyes, as well as the importer. The verdict is that they are being punished a lot due to being a big rider resulting in harder pressure on the bearings combined with use in tough weather conditions is that ultimately reduce the life expectancy. Last season I wore out four brackets - won’t change the bike for that as I have too much fun with it. It’s my do it all bike used for CX, gravel road and commuting.
If you need to replace your bb every couple of months you might have bought a sram/truvativ gigapipe BB. I had one of these way back when and regardless of the brand the bearings would only last about 3 months. I swapped this garbage out for an XTR and haven't had to touch it in over 15 years now. From the engineering reports I've seen and the return data the same people designed the current dub bb.... Thankfully I learned my lesson a couple of decades ago
I had to fit spindle spacers each side before I could get the correct preload on my bearings. I only found this out a couple of months ago and it's been a revelation. I've never known about this before...am I a dumb arse for not knowing this?
When you buy a new bottom bracket bearings set you shouldn't need spacers once you've used up all adjustability The shim's are used to get a little more adjustment before you replace them.
Also I have noticed that the spindle spacers keep the crank arms slightly away from the b/b cups and I can keep a better level of preload. Before I was having to put quite alot of tension and still getting side to side movement. The spindle spacers have done away with that completely.
The durability of modern bottom brackets, chains, and brakes is really quite pathetic when compared to those of years ago. Especially if your bike gets wet or dirty occasionally. Is it just lazy manufacturing or is it intentional to sell more stuff?
my mountain bike gets that "typical BB CREAK" . . . it is a press fit BB and it is Always on the down stroke of drive side crank. I've replaced the BB 3x and just a couple rides later it starts again . . . they said its not a tolerance issue but more a press fit BB issue to mountain bikes after some time the frame wears ??? Is this true?
I've never heard of such an explanation. If it still creaks, something somewhere must still have some minute movement. Is it truly confirmed the creaking came from between the BB shell and BB?
Just buy Shimano bottom bracket. I'd trust them to build things in spec. No fancy ceramic BB or some snakeoil ones from influencers. The bearings are disposable and I'd rather replace for $30~40.
That's only if the rider can live with higher friction from the seals and the grease fill percentage. Good aftermarket BBs using steel bearings exist and I finally get to use one. But, I won't deny that they're an OK choice for when you're too lazy to choose anything else.
My Canyon Ultimate CF SLX bottom bracket has just worn out after 10000 miles and 9 years! Sounds a whole lot worse than that one Alex, and doesn't spin that freely either!
0:56 I remember a GCN video from years ago with Si where he tried to prove that washing your BB with a pressure washer was fine. So what happened, why is GCN now contradicting itself, again.
Those token ninja lite bbs are hot garbage. Why canyon continues to put those on their bikes is beyond me. The cups are nylon threaded and the bearings just do not last that long, and they're expensive. At a third of the price of the token, a shimano bb72 is more than enough and it'd almost certainly last longer.
BB are the thing that became unserviceable at home. they crowded the market with dozents of "standards" that are a compatibility mess.. for a full time mechanic maybe easy to see, but for me it is unclear.
Once upon a time, when the world was young, bottom brackets weere simple - axle, bearings, lock nuts. Still have the tools and some bearings. Shame the old 531 frame got broken.
Do you have any bottom-bracket maintenance tips? 🛠
The last one is maybe the most important. Practically all bikes are not faced out of the factory
Also dont just spray degreaser all over the drive train. I really ruined my BB doing that...
PLEASE do not buy any bike made by hero. They all have really bad quality bottom brackets. Mine got absolutely powderised in a single uphill race.
Why do people think about such.. you can get one from China with ceramic bearings for about 15,- eur.. you don't even need to grease them..
Buy 10 pcs now if you're afraid they won't last 😁
I remove the cranks once a month, clean everything up and lube.
On dub BB don't set the plastic preload ring too tight, people often tighten it up "hand tight" skipping the fine adjustment needed it just needs to stop play, not tightened...
Main one is to use square taper - no creaking, no preload bolts, no NM wrenches, no bird-testicles sized bearings that worn out after one summer, no 50 different types of fit, just 2 types of thread.
3 of my bikes have the old Shimano single-piece cartridge bottom bracket (square taper) that have done tens of thousands of miles over the past 20 years and are still as smooth as ever. Probably heavier than current BBs but definitely more durable.
The square taper is pretty bomb proof but yes they can often be heavy and not super smooth. If you're looking for a super reliable fit and forget part the square taper is great 🙌
@@gcntech The old un-7x and un-5x were plenty smooth. The 7x variants especially, being XT grade parts. Heavy though, it's true.
The way my campy cranks attached with threading back in the 1970s seems far more effective to me
Technically, a BB should never have to be replaced if it is legit to begin with.. IMO, its upright climbing that truly destroys them.. Bicycles were never designed to be ridden standing up, thats why theres a seat.. One of my bikes has well over 30,000 miles on it same BB no issues...
@@gcntech I’ve got a Token brand JSI square taper cartridge BB with aluminum cups, titanium spindle, and cartridge bearings (could have paid more for ceramic bearings). Very light and very smooth. You have to search a little to find them on line, but they are out there.
Thank you for being honest about the ceramic nonsense.
Seeing the God of RUclips Cycling approving the GCN guys gives me hope that the world is all good again.
Okay, as long time rider who has worked on many bikes, the answer for many people is quite simple.
Any water getting in the the frame will always go to lowest spot and ruin things.
Back in the day we drilled a small hole in the bottom of the bracket at the lowest point to let the water run back out if the frame did not already have one.
Water loves to go from the seat post clamp slot into the frame.
It doesn't matter what material the frame is made of, a small hole will not weaken the frame.
This also helps with corrosion on all the other parts of the bottom bracket, not just the bearings.
Cinelli actually patented a ventilated bottom bracket using negative air pressure to keep it dry.
Cheers from Florida.
Small piece of electrical tape can be used to cover the frame, seat-post gap on some bikes to reduce water ingress, and its almost invisible.
Interesting point! Do you think more manufacturers should be creating frames with drainage holes?
Agreed. It was a stock job on the hand built steel frames I used to build into bikes in my early life in bike workshops. One hole for cable guide, one for “ventilation”.
@@gcntechyes, it’s an obvious requirement if you spend a season in the UK
@@gcntech all frames should have a drainage hole for sure. The other example is deep section wheels: if they don't have drainage holes - after very rainy ride you can easly pour a glass of water from two wheels. And even if you don't ride in rain at all - water can be found inside the frame because of the condensate. So if you ride in rainy conditions and don't have drainage hole - drill it.
Hambini makes BB gauges to check for the aperture of bottom bracket holes. They're a cheap and easy way to diagnose a frame manufacturing defect. He also recommends NTN bearings, which are the best you can get before getting in stupidly diminishing return territory.
Pretty cool to see frame manufacturing tolerances being mentioned on GCN :)
I had 2 canyons grail and neuron . Bottom bracket worned out after 1500km.😢 little to fast imo. No pressure hose used. Luckally 30euro fix and i improved bike mech skills 😅
I have an older bike that doesn't get ridden much anymore. Back in the day I was riding 7-8,000 mi/yr, so it must have over 50k mi on it. An original Phill Wood sealed BB. Still smooth, quiet, and tight. I have never pressure washed the bike, hose only.
Ooo nice! The classic square taper BBs we're sold 🙌
I remember Phil Wood hubs. Sealed never greases
Good video
Showing my age here but many of the old Campag Record BBs from the mid 80s with the tapered square shape are still going strong. The axle actually had a corkscrew detail that pushed water away from the bearings. Also the bearing seals probably added some drag but they actually worked.
Call me a conspiracy theorist but I do think poor materials are a deliberate ploy so that we replace components more frequently. I had to replace the SRAM BB on my gravel bike every six months and the frame is fine tolerance and alignment wise. Now running Shimano GRX chainset without issue for almost 18 months 😮
I bought my first Campagnolo Record crank in 2005 and then found a great deal on a spare BB so I ordered one which is still sitting pristinely in it's original packing in my parts bin and yes the original BB is still in use
Not just the campagnolo bbs: i have other makes which have done many thousands of miles
I make sure to apply plenty of grease to the part of the seat post that sits inside the frame, and wipe off excess grease on the outside. This helps prevent water from getting inside and travelling down to the BB where it causes issues. I'm also careful not to spray degreaser or soapy water around the BB, even low pressure, never mind jet wash! Same goes for headset and rear hub.
Alex (for us novices), it might have been nice to have actually known what was wrong with that BB? Sounded clean and seemed to rotate just fine with no obvious lateral slip/knock
You should not be hearing that whirring sound - it means the bearings have no grease and are probably out of round from being used in that state. Like he said, the bike has experienced a lot of dirt and grit and then he used a power washer to clean it (the bottom bracket), blasting out much of the grease and pushing dirt further into it, basically making a sand paper consistency that has destroyed the bearings.
@@schrodingerthecat Thankyou! A side by side "listen" with a perfect BB would have been really useful. After all, everyday is still a school day!
If they still can turn you can keep using them wear them to the bone
And just like that, with a single (albeit long) sentence Alex has destroyed both the dirt cheap and the crazy expensive segments of the after-market BB industry.
Because he gets 100% compliance on all his advice. LOL
If it's not sealed bearing, you can actually regrease it fairly easy which is the case for the Canyon bike featured on this video. Just take crankset out, remove the bearing cover and regrease from time to time.
That's a great shout! Being able to fix things is a super cool feature, that would be a very welcome move to Sustainability 👀
If you're good and careful at prising out the seal, that is . . . & once it's gone that rumbly, it's toast.
Or simply replace the bearings with ones with full contact seals. They hardly free-spin, but last donkey years.
so... not "completely destroyed!", just bone dry?
I miss the old cup-and-cone bottom brackets with the solid spindle that weighed about a kilo (my memory may be faulty). Clean and relube periodically was fairly trivial. Even new bearing balls if you wanted to splurge. But I must say the "new" stuff is quite durable for being zero maintenance. My hollowtech lasted about 10 years before giving up. I still keep my cone wrenches for sentimental value.
There was nothing quite like spending hours and hours to get the bearings just right on an old BB! We have to say, as great as they were and look, just like you say, a Shimano Hollowtech BB can go on for a very long time. Whereas it felt like we had to look at cup-and-cone BB's more often!
Same here, probably never going to use my shimano and campag pattern bb tools again.😢Easy to replace bearings in those days.
I still use them. I found enough NOS to outlive me.
My bottom bracket on my Specialized Roubaix Comp needed to be repacked after 3000 miles.
It is important to keep maintenance up to date.
Just using stock Dura-Ace and Campag BB's on my bikes, I haven't had any issues.. I'd like a Hambini replacement if I ever need one, but with 20k plus km on each BB, neither has had issues.
I cut two protective rings from a silicone baking mat. put it on the shaft and the lower bracket is protected. Manufacturers have very poor basic bearing protection.
Hack for sure 🙌
I like to clean my bb bearings every few months even though most ppl say to just get new ones. I'm not worried about fractions of a watt, and I like how it's smooth. I used to remove the inner seal of the bearings and run thin oil but it's too high maintenance
That's the sort of nerdy details we love at GCN Tech 🙌Do you think modern tech could be made more fixable?
That's only OK if you're doing a single-day race in dry conditions, where you can go a bit overboard for friction reduction. After all, you're only racing for a short time.
@@gcntech Of course the manufacturers could make components more fixable, however, that doesn't equate to more profits for them. Bikes used to be much more DIY friendly. There seems to be a never ending spiral of hightech mindset for the sake of lighter and more complicated. Bike mechanicals used to be fairly straight forward. Bring back common sense and good quality for an affordable price. This will help not hinder the bike industry. 99% of us don't need aerospace tech to enjoy the benefits of riding, even at a competitive level.
This is a genuinely useful video and less and less usually in gcn, had info had not heard before.
More deep dives please Alex
Great to hear that you learned something new 🙌 Any other parts you would like to see us dive into?
I wore out a 7800BB after 65,000 miles, and had the bright idea to try to overhaul it. Total disassembly included carefully removing seals, cleaning, and regreasing, that took me over an hour, that turned out to be wasted effort. Oh well, it was fun to do.
wow! that is some serious miles out of that BB!
@@gcntech I tend to get serious miles out of all components on my bikes, like chains and cassettes.
Interesting, useful video. It's good to look at and understand individual parts of your bike. Thanks.
in my opinion, besides not pressure-washing your bike/BB area (it's the same reason i would never pressure-wash an engine bay in a car), the type of BB makes a difference; a single-piece shell-type BB (i.e., bbinfinite) makes the most sense in any non-threaded BB shell. it means correct bearing alignment, and no creaking - and will overcome uneven facing issues. and, as alex mentioned (wait.... who's that??), you don't need to spend loads of money on ceramic bearings. just take care of them.... they WILL wear out, but they will last longer if you take care of them.
Do take note that not every frame with a PressFit BB shell can take a one-piece BB if the obstruction is impossible to get rid of, like the aluminium Propel.
The only threaded BB standard that can take a one-piece BB is the T47 range (T47 outboard, T47 inboard & T47-A) as the BB shell's internal diameter is large enough for BBInfinite to design the module to be a one-piece unit.
Just cleaned out my new GRX crankset and bottom bracket. Had lots of sand/dust. Never had this issue with a classic style bb…
Very informative. Possibly the most neglected component on most people's cycles.
Out of sight and out of mind ... until it starts creaking 🔉
With bullshit pressfit, who can actually maintain them?
Water stuck inside the frame can also trash the bearings. Jet washing around the top of some seatposts, cable and wire entry points can work to the lowest point on the frame.
There IS a drain, you know.
This is the first GCN Tech video in 3.5 years that has made me question stuff, AND made me nervous. YOU'RE SAYING that people are changing their BB's every YEAR? OR more? I've got a 3 year old Gen 1 Grail, GRX Di2, about 6,500 miles on it. I've done some races and dusty gravel, but most of the miles are rough farm roads, only caught in the rain 3 times. Washed and cleaned every 2-3 weeks or when needed. I've not HEARD anything that sounds bad or "dry" ... Am I supposed to do this? This makes me nervous for my planned summer of events.
You’re fine and the BB in the video was basically fine, although a bit dry and on its way to losing some watts in the future
Never had a problem with tolerence running the classic English threaded BB.
The structure is very perfect in terms of technique and art.
I miss BSA bottom brackets. My fixed gear with a dura ace 7710 is now 5 years old of pure abuse, dirt and mud.
Why? There's plenty of bikes still made with them, and they're coming back, as bike designers (who are no longer engineers) have been hit over the head enough times by people complaining about their trash pressfit variants.
@@zygmuntthecacaokakistocrat6589 I know there are, but they are not widely available to everyone. For instance if I want a midend bike in my region, I’m limited to the big famous brands and two locals that only copy the big ones.
I had BB issues with my Cervelo, 3 in the first year. Eventually got it fixed by the dealer but, spoilt several good rides.
Buy a bike with threaded 1.37" x 24 tpi fitting, buy a Chris King BB, buy the service tool, use quality grease at regular intervals, and you have a BB for decades, if not for life. The one in my road bike has been in 3 other frames, outlasting them all.
We love to see people getting super nerdy about their tech 🙌 Are you still using the Chris King BB?
@@gcntech Can you tell me if a conversion from a press fit bottom bracket to a threaded type is commercially available?
Also, be mindful of wire/cable/hydraulic brake hose interior frame clearance issues around/under the BB
Great point! Especially with more and more bikes with internal cable routing 👀
Cheers for the preload advice - just installed new 105 cranks to a new bb too tightly I think 👍
It's very easy for people that don't understand how these cranksets work to give them too much preload.
Double sided sealed bearings, thick grease, shell that contains the bb bearings and axle.
Are you talking about square taper BBs? 👀
Had to replace a press fit BB on my Giant TCR after 15,000. Replaced with Dura Ace that is now at 60,000 with no problem. Cannondale on the other hand..... On number three after only 10,000 - hoping a better version of the internal bearings will last better this time.
Just few days ago I learned that my Trek Emonda uses what every bike mechanic says is the worst bottom bracket ever - BB90. Bearing is pressed directly into the carbon frame and tends to widen the bearing seat in the frame, which might be exactly my issue...
Worst than BB30 (Cannondale)?
Don't stress over it. Just do all repairs with retaining compound and not grease and pray that you got one with decent bearing holes and you will be fine.
Did not know about the pre load bolt! Will be loosening them off!!
It pays off to read the user's manual. Shimano's are quite detailed.
Glad we could help 🙌
Facing a CF frame's BB? Fools rush in where angels fear to tread . . . you need something other that the standard cutters on a mandrel. I turned some out of wood and made disposable sandpaper discs (glued on) to fit it, because I didn't want to spend $500 on the Park Tool add-ons to their BB facing and threading tool for metal frames. & I run a bike workshop.
I seem to get two years/8000 miles all weather rides. I find if you keep using a part that needs replacing, it has more life in it, but if you leave it in the garage for a few weeks, it begins to seize up
Very interesting point! Do you find you need to work on your bike a bit more if you've not ridden for a while?
@@gcntech yes. I mainly find my kids bikes pick up problems when not used. Also waxing your chain removes the risk of chain degreaser getting into your bb
I would say most bike shops can absolutely NOT measure or fix a carbon bottom bracket shell. Not even the manufacturer can fix a carbon bottom bracket shell. The fix is a replacement frame. If the only problem you have is facing, which is unlikely to be the only problem if your bottom bracket is being destroyed in months, a bike shop wouldn't be able to face the frame without voiding the warranty. Unless the bike shop was authorized and instructed by the manufacturer to face the frame, it can't be done.
If your bike shop is good, then they will help you open the warranty claim and vouch for your case. If the bike shop is not good, then they'll turn you away saying it's user error. Unfortunately when you have a bad frame, you're at the mercy of the shop and manufacturer. Out-of-spec bottom bracket shell is hard to prove, and there's lots of room for the bike shop or manufacturer to deny responsibility.
I think you can also create a video on how to install a Bottom Bracket may it be Hollow Tech or Square Tapered? Since it has to be properly installed with the right amount of torque. As well as bottom bracket maintenance. How to clean the bearings. Replace the bearings.etc.
We have this golden oldie with Dan 👉 ruclips.net/video/BPX8Hv3Pjk0/видео.html We think it's about time we do a new one 👀
Threaded all the way!!!
Not a pressfit person? 👀
Alex, please compare super bikes (UCI approve) to same-price motorcycles. Which one is faster and what are the technology used.
👀 Might depend on who rides both bikes 😆
Awesome video,the same applies to you headset and bearings though I've noticed mild rain hasn't affected my headset at all.💯👌🏻✌🏻
Should we do another video for headset bearings? 👀
@@gcntech Yeah,would be great.Its quite a technical part the headset.Safe riding.💯👌🏻✌🏻🚴♀️
Is that really worn, or just making a little noise. Looked to spin freely. How’s the play? I appreciate you guys are looking at it as high demand and/or ‘supported’ riders…. But how much does a little noise hinder casual riders? When is it a function or safety issue?
Noise is harmonics - which is WEAR.
It's making sound without load on the pedals. It's trashed.
If it's your commuter then you can probably live with it for a couple hundred kms more.
But if you are interested in being fast, then you have a 15usd replacement to make.
Noise means the bb is worn a little - replacing it will give you a much smoother ride 🙌
@@petersouthernboy6327 You missed the point. There was no play being shown at all. It was running smooth and unhindered. Noise can be contamination or lack of lubrication. Even sealed bearings can have the seals removed and repacked. It is not necessarily only wear causing noise.
@@paulhugo1623 bearings are a wear item. The last place you want to be cheap is a BB.
Haven't replaced my bottom bracket since 2018 and still going strong. Shimano XT8000 groupset bottom bracket, can't remember the exact part name.
My Grizl BB was cracked and had to be replaced within a couple hundred miles and still creaks after replacing. Never had any problem with any other bike with many thousands of miles more. If this is a common problem, Canyon are definitely doing something wrong.
Okay, as long time rider who has worked on many bikes, the answer for many people is quite simple.
Any water getting in the the frame will always go to lowest spot and ruin things.
Back in the day we drilled a small hole in the bottom of the bracket at the lowest point to let the water run back out if the frame did not already have one.
Id prefer cranks had steel axles instead of alloy as an alloy axle running on steel bearings wears the axle out very quickly. I dont mind extra chainset weight for better longevity.
Thanks Alex, very informative video. Unfortunately I think my Bianchi suffers from a manufacturing default and I've had to change the BB more often than normal. Very annoying.
Have you had a bike shop check out the frame? There may be a way of facing the BB to allow the bb to fit better 👀
If the bearings can't spin smoothly when installed even when they're new, you have an undersized BB bore, which leads to premature bearing wear due to excessive radial compression. Reaming it is the solution.
#ASKGCNTECH Hi Alex. Thanks for the video and the helpful information. My new bike has a press fit BB. I am familiar with maintenance and care for threaded BB's, but not so much for press fit. Can you speak more directly to the care and maintenance of press fit BB's? Thanks in advance.
I got into BB #4 at 18,300km with the shortest one lasting 2000km. The current solution from the bike shop was to switch from 30mm spindle to 24mm to have more space allocated to the bearings. Outside of tires the BB is the component I've replaced most.
What BB standard are you on?
@@yonglingng5640 Inboard T47.
About how often should I replace my bottom bracket? Good video- thank you.
hi, thanks for the comment. There is not a specific time/distance when it needs to be replaced. The best way is to check that there is no rocking through the cranks, and that it is not making any noises or feeling rough. If in doubt, we would always recommend checking with your local bike shop. This video can help explain what to look for regarding when to replace the bottom bracket > ruclips.net/video/tmCUqu4c81U/видео.htmlsi=l-s1RanmHex_1tlt&t=98 👍
When it feels rough to you on your feet with a fresh chain.
the cap for hollowtech 2 bottom brackets should not be tightened with more than 1,5 nm.
What is wrong with square taper? (c) Ultraromance
Some will say it's too heavy. I say run whatever makes sense for you.
Nothing wrong with the good old square taper but can be very heavy - would you like to see an industry move back to them? ⚙
@@gcntech Maybe its better than having so much standarts that probably will be abandoned soon because non of them really much better each other, anyway all finishes at poor tolerances in frames that costs fev k bucks. At least I don't think that this loss in weight and stiffness really so much matter for 99% of your audience who are not participating in races.
I use duraace bottom bracket on my fixed its been a year since i disassemble it haha
Good stuff, not boring at all Alex. So, is your bottom bracket worn out through the large amount of work it has done or is your canyon bike defective. What are the most reliable brands and types of brackets?
Hambini and Chris King are the best I have tried.
The most important tip: use ANTI SEIZE on the threads, not grease.
Send it to hambini 👍
I wish Shimano would make the bearings replacable in their road bottom brackets. At least with standard aftermarkets bearings.
Shimano and SRAM branded BB’s are so cheap - why bother?
Some people have replaced bearings in their Shimano BBs before. As far as I'm aware, all Shimano-spec BBs use either 6805 bearings with top hats or 2437 bearings (6805 bearings, but with a 24 mm I.D).
On SRAM you can press the bearings out and replace, I used to replace with NTN bearings back in my bearing nerd phase, now I just get a new Enduro cup and swap it out cause I can't tell the difference between any bearing setup on my feet.
Mine has lasted now for 6 years, and still works fine. Jillaroo bike
My pro tip would be to never clean it.
Worked for me, though the intention was theft protection, not bottom bracket protection.
Never clean 😬 - Don't tell Alex 👀
I kept what I thought was a Shimano XT bottom bracket (it was just an average Shimano one) in my bike for 15 years. When it went, I couldn't even turn the crank.
I ride for more than 40 years. Many steel, aluminum and carbon bikes. The latest is 12yrs old. Never had a BB problem. Only heard about it on youtube 😂
if ii don't replace the BB when it needs to, would it ruin the crankset and potentially destroy them?
I have 3 older bikes with all the miles and dirt on them and never ever wash them. Only ever changed 1 BB.
I’ve been riding Time road bikes with Campagnolo cranks for the past 15 years. I ride about 4000-5000 miles per year and change the grease 1-2 times per year. I’ve yet to wear the bearings out. Chainrings and chains? Yes. Fresh lube is your friend.
Hi there this is away from the topic, but can you change a rim brake bike into a disc bike? Please confirm and thanks in advance. 😊🚴♀️
Replace the frame and fork and brake set. Tip: Stick with rim brakes unless there is a particular reason you need discs, like, you're descending mountains.
I was confused and suddenly nervous until I realized all my bikes have been square taper. No worries
Didn't Simon make a video some time ago, showing that you can blast a BB with a jet washer for extensive amount of time and it does nothing to it?
Ironically, even though your BB sounds like a pepper grinder it actually spins more freely than it did when new!
Solution: SKF square taper BB’s
Lots of love for the square taper! They are pretty solid 👌
WD-40 ... Water displacement experiment number 40... If you wet your bike spray it down with WD-40 it also is temporary lubricant but that is not the main job ... I use wd bike chain lube., I use the gel lube for my car like suspension and alot of other things
Unfortunately, I have to change mine every few months. The main contributor is tough use combined with the fact it is a 30mm shaft leaving little room for bearings. I have considered changing to crank with smaller diameter to use bigger bearings however I have ended up with packing them generously with grease and settle that I must change the brackets 3-4 times a year.
3 to 4 times a year....yikes, get a new bike.
Interesting, Have you had a shop look at the issue - would be a shame to have to give up the bike 😢
Are you on BB86?
@@gcntechyes, as well as the importer. The verdict is that they are being punished a lot due to being a big rider resulting in harder pressure on the bearings combined with use in tough weather conditions is that ultimately reduce the life expectancy. Last season I wore out four brackets - won’t change the bike for that as I have too much fun with it. It’s my do it all bike used for CX, gravel road and commuting.
@@yonglingng5640yes a BB86 using the Easton EC90 Crank
If you need to replace your bb every couple of months you might have bought a sram/truvativ gigapipe BB. I had one of these way back when and regardless of the brand the bearings would only last about 3 months. I swapped this garbage out for an XTR and haven't had to touch it in over 15 years now. From the engineering reports I've seen and the return data the same people designed the current dub bb.... Thankfully I learned my lesson a couple of decades ago
I had to fit spindle spacers each side before I could get the correct preload on my bearings. I only found this out a couple of months ago and it's been a revelation. I've never known about this before...am I a dumb arse for not knowing this?
When you buy a new bottom bracket bearings set you shouldn't need spacers once you've used up all adjustability
The shim's are used to get a little more adjustment before you replace them.
No you are not the only one! Bike tech can be overly complex - hopefully we can help explain it better for everyone 🙌
Also I have noticed that the spindle spacers keep the crank arms slightly away from the b/b cups and I can keep a better level of preload. Before I was having to put quite alot of tension and still getting side to side movement. The spindle spacers have done away with that completely.
attaching the non-drive side crank to the BB is like attaching your stem to the steerer tube, except with more consequences
Are you dealing with press-fit or threaded?
The durability of modern bottom brackets, chains, and brakes is really quite pathetic when compared to those of years ago. Especially if your bike gets wet or dirty occasionally. Is it just lazy manufacturing or is it intentional to sell more stuff?
my mountain bike gets that "typical BB CREAK" . . . it is a press fit BB and it is Always on the down stroke of drive side crank. I've replaced the BB 3x and just a couple rides later it starts again . . . they said its not a tolerance issue but more a press fit BB issue to mountain bikes after some time the frame wears ??? Is this true?
I've never heard of such an explanation. If it still creaks, something somewhere must still have some minute movement. Is it truly confirmed the creaking came from between the BB shell and BB?
The BB thread on my frame has worn out. So the cups slides out. What can I do?
Buy a new frame.
Try to re-tap the threads
There are repair kits that have tapered cups instead of threads designed for this exact situation
Did you purposely wreck your BB or did you farm out that task to Si?
I like OEM bottom brackets... Shimano. No need for the aftermarket.
Shimano make a solid BB 💪
If you ask for little to nothing from a BB other than problem-free operation, Shimano's really do just fine.
I thought it (dooup) sounded like a hai r style.
Hambini masterrace, Assemble!
OR if you ride a trek, the BB is very possibly undersized for the badly sized frame and you need to buy their fix/bodge of oversized bearings…
Just buy Shimano bottom bracket. I'd trust them to build things in spec. No fancy ceramic BB or some snakeoil ones from influencers. The bearings are disposable and I'd rather replace for $30~40.
That's only if the rider can live with higher friction from the seals and the grease fill percentage. Good aftermarket BBs using steel bearings exist and I finally get to use one.
But, I won't deny that they're an OK choice for when you're too lazy to choose anything else.
My Canyon Ultimate CF SLX bottom bracket has just worn out after 10000 miles and 9 years! Sounds a whole lot worse than that one Alex, and doesn't spin that freely either!
Ceramicspeed 2ans aucun entretien,fluide et silencieux comme au premier jour 👍🏻
Shimano XTR or saint as long the frame has been faced last forever.
pro teams jetwash their bikes every day! I jet wash not on the highest power and dont focus on bearings. And not that often either, all fine.
the pro teams & mechanics are lucky to have lots of replacement parts too 🚿
yep, the luxury of being able to not care about things wearing out or breaking! @@gcntech
Anyone else using the token threaded adapter for pressfit BB?
One of my customers is using one and it's not an adapter, it's simply a thread-together PressFit BB.
@@yonglingng5640 any input on function or issues?
0:56 I remember a GCN video from years ago with Si where he tried to prove that washing your BB with a pressure washer was fine.
So what happened, why is GCN now contradicting itself, again.
Now and again the pressure washer is fine but it's not a long term solution. We all evolve too 😉
Those token ninja lite bbs are hot garbage. Why canyon continues to put those on their bikes is beyond me. The cups are nylon threaded and the bearings just do not last that long, and they're expensive. At a third of the price of the token, a shimano bb72 is more than enough and it'd almost certainly last longer.
I saw a Hambini BB on Facebook for £235, is that a good deal?
No. They are too heavy and overpriced.
If you want a one-piece BB, BBInfinite on steel bearings is enough for most.
Terrible value. ask yourself, would I want to buy something from a person who behaves like him?
I did't hear anything wrong with that!!!
The Bb is fine after 2years. The headset bearings were a complete different story
BB are the thing that became unserviceable at home. they crowded the market with dozents of "standards" that are a compatibility mess.. for a full time mechanic maybe easy to see, but for me it is unclear.
Best tip for Canyon: Throw away the Token BB and put in a shimano.
Once upon a time, when the world was young, bottom brackets weere simple - axle, bearings, lock nuts. Still have the tools and some bearings. Shame the old 531 frame got broken.
Uses a power washer on a bicycle? Since the dawn of cycling this was never a good idea.
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