+1 for this video suggestion. Also how to compare potential newbikes on a geometry chart when replacing an older bike to mimic the older bike's fit on a newer one.
Love the honesty, which is becoming increasingly hard to come by in the world of cycling. Agree with a lot of these - there's so much marketing jarg and over-engeneered nonsense that's simply not needed. A steel disc brake bike with decent clearance for larger tyres is the perfect bike because it can do the vast majority of things for the vast majority.
I have a Brooks B17 Special on my touring bike the bars are level with the seat and its bliss, and Brooks C17 curve (rubber) on my gravel bike and it just works .
The bike sizing thing is so true. I'm 195cm, which puts me in the top 1% of the UK population for height, yet I ride a large Canyon frame. There are two sizes above that!
Modern geometry. Look a Beryl Burtons bike fit. Long and low and still holds records. I'm 6.1 and ride 60cm with 58 top. 90mm stem. Works perfectly as drop to bars not huge. Nowadays I would need, " endurance geometry ". . Progress. Na
Canyons tend to run really big. I'm 178cm and Canyon would suggest a small on their road and gravel frames, most road/gravel sizing guides for other brands would have me on a 56cm frame. On MTB frames I usually ride a large (my sweet spot on MTB reach is 470-480mm), a size L Strive is over 500mm reach
@@JanKowalski-ux6nt It depends! Only you know how long your legs, torso and arms are. Only you know your comfortable cycling positions. Best option get a bike fit, if you cannot do that try them out, if you cannot try a specific bike out try the nearest you can in terms of geometry.
I agree about those rear suspension. Systems built into the frame - they look like a problem waiting to happen. However, I've been very pleasantly surprised by the Redshift shockstop post. The mk1 version with the springs is very easily tunable, and it irons out the more serious bumps that my 35mm tyres don't. Without any noticeable bobbing. It's great for gravel and the crap, badly cracked concrete roads i ride. If I ever wanted to race, I could pull it off and stick on a lighter regular post. Seems like the perfect compromise to me. Cheers
I think part of the issue with the way rear suspension has been incorporated into road frames (and also some gravel, like that Diverge STR), is that the suspension operates on a parallel axis to the frame, as opposed to perpendicular like suspension on mtbs. Seatposts operate perpendicular, and a couple have no rearward deflection at all. It still changes your fit, but at such a small drop its probably not really a major impact. Flexing 20-30mm rearward though not only changes knee position in relation to pedals, but also stretches you away from the cockpit. Seems so sketch to me.
The Specialized Aethos costs 5.200 Euro for the Comp version with a 105. The S-Works version costs around 15.000. How could this even remotely be considered a "bike for the people" in the first place?
saying the SL7 is only for pro / competition also surprised me, it sure is a performance bike, but is quite versatile and a great allrounder, i know a lot of "amateurs" who chose a SL7 rather than two different bikes
I think he means that the aethos isn't meant for racers. It's just for people who enjoy riding bikes, albeit quite wealthy people. And by the way, the Aethos with geometry for normal people has already been made, it's called the Crux. Just put some high-ish gears on it and tyres that aren't too chunky and Bob's your uncle.
I would love to see you address the issue of crank length. Generally I find crank length to be excessive on almost every bike. It's rare to find anything below 170 mm except on S or XS frames.
The thing with Brooks **leather** saddles is that they've got incredibly short rails, and were designed back in the time when angles were more slack, and all seatposts had setback. If your bike has steep angles, and you want a very specific seatpost, you better know that the sizing and fit is bang-on. If you have a bike, where all that is bang-on, you will be quite happy with your durable flexy saddle, even for all day riding, but it can easily go either way. When you go to the Cambrium rubber saddles, you've got a lot more room for adjustment, but you better hope the shape and flex of them is exactly what you like.
I've used both the Brooks B17 carved and C17 (cambium) carved on my fixed gear as well as my two gravel bikes, all of which have a saddle to bar drop of around 34 mm. I like both saddles, but the B17 (aka the leather one) is easily the most comfortable saddle I've used. Maybe it's because my saddle to bar drop is rather shallow, but it just works. At one point it did become more uncomfortable once the leather started to sag, but tightening the screw on the bottom made it super comfortable again.
I’ve got a B17 Flyer on my Brompton, easily the most comfortable saddle. Recently tried an Ergon saddle followed by a WTB Volt, then put the Flyer back on and tightened up the bolt and I’m back to comfort again.
The Trek VCLS handlebar being long reach makes so much sense! I've a 58 Trek and I get bad neck and shoulder pain, feel like I've to stretch too far. Other similar sizes frames I had no such issue.
56 Trek for me came with a 7degree 100 stem and those bars with 93 reach. Put a 6degree 90 stem on ages ago and it's a bit better. Next time my bar tape or brake bleed is due I'm definitely swapping down to an 80 or 70 bar. Gravel bikes do generally spec 70s these days (except Trek lol) but I've still got a pretty long torso and I ride drops a lot so I'm leaning towards the 80.
Trek road frames are all really short though, they’re making them back up to the usual length with a longer reach handlebar. You’re probably just on the wrong size bike.
Regarding long reach handlebars, all the "avoid" handlebars could actually be good handlebars to buy for fixed gear riders which is pretty funny. Since they don't usually use STIs or brake levers with hoods the longer reach on the handlebars make them easier to hold
I brought my canyon endurace 4 years ago, I am 5’9” mature 50+, I was convinced I was a medium size but the canyon chart said I was a small, I brought the small,for my me it was a massive difference coming from a M/L TCR which was recommended for me by local bike shop who just looked me up and down and said yeah that’ll fit.
Same for me but I just went trial and error. I'm also 5'9" and started on a 54cm Fuji since it was my recommended size. I rode it for 3,500 miles and tried every position imaginable but never quite felt like the bike fit. I jumped on a 52cm frame for a test ride and it immediately felt perfect. I have over 6,000 miles on it now in comfort.
Just use a shorter stem for long reach bars. Mine are 104mm so I swapped the 100mm stem for an 80mm stem. I like the tops being closer when climbing and the longer reach bars give me that greater differential between hoods and tops.
Love these videos; thanks James and Francis. I too would like to see a fitting that then translates to a geometry table. I have several bikes (touring, gravel, road), and have had several bike fittings, but couldn’t tell you anything about what geometry fits me for any of my bikes.
Great points! It’s taken me 50 years as an avid recreational cyclist to figure out what makes one bike fit and be fast and fun and others to just never feel right. More money does not mean a better fit and more speed. Your point about if you need flat bars on your gravel bike, you’re probably on the wrong bike, is spot on.
Awesome informative video! My x-small 2024 Creo 2 Expert e-assist gravel bike fits like a glove. My 2014 x-small Marinoni touring bike has similar feel as well. Riding my 16 year trek Madone and 20 year old Cannondale Slice I certainly feel the different geometry of those old frames as being a 65 5'2" gal l feel less flexible that 20 years ago.😊
That's because both the SL7 and Aethos stack dimensions are given to the top of the bearing and on the SL7 it sits below the top tube by about 7mm, once the proprietary bearing cover is installed the stack becomes identical (this obviously effects the reach too). Technically you can choose to not use the proprietary bearing cover in favour of an external to internal type (basically a standard cover with holes drilled in it) on the SL7 and drop the stack below that of the Aethos but it looks weird as the bearing cover integrates into the frame and it leaves an ugly gap.
My bicycle fitting pet peeve are road/gravel bicycle brake levers with integral master cylinders for hydraulic disc brakes. This increases the reach of the brake lever body, making it difficult to find a position where it's comfortable to ride on both the hoods and the drops. You're either too stretched out when riding the hoods or too cramped when riding the drops.
At the beginning of the season I bought a specialized SL7 shoe, got them snug for racing crits. I love them and they feel super stiff. Well a couple months later and now I probably have a bunion (which can only be corrected by surgery... awesome!) forming under my pinky toe knuckle joint. So now I'm back to riding my 5 year old shimano shoes.
Hi you're right about specialized shoes. Now you say it, this summer I wore specialized shoes for 9 days all day long for an ultra cycling event and got a callus on one of my external toes (the one usually resting upfront.
Yeah what do I know? I'm riding a Cambium C15 carved on my SS drop bar bike, zero comfort issues, and I never think about the saddle, which of course is exactly what you want.
Agree about frame sizing. Absolutely crucial to try before you buy. Also, aside from bike frames, cycling clothing manufacturers need to address their flawed sizing structures too. They seem to assume that height is somehow proportional to how unfit you are. That the taller you are, the fatter you must therefore be. Nightmare for people 6ft 2" + who have the physique of a healthy eating regular cyclist. To me that just seems like a flawed and somewhat paradoxical logic in sizing structure. I'm sure Jimmy will have opinions on this but for us tall skinny guys it's kind of frustrating. The amount of money I've wasted on kit over the years bears not thinking about.
It goes the other way too. I'm of similar lenght but lift weights, so my chest is XXXXXL according to manufacturers from Italy. And XL when buying Norwegian clothing. The sizing is all over the place and there don't seem to be any standards.
Have you tried Kalas kit? Their sizing is not S, M, L etc but is numbered 3, 4, 5 etc which is a little bit odd. But they also have a longer "plus" size - so 3+, 4+ and so on. Same sizing, just a bit longer for taller riders.
Even worse is when looking for a skinsuit. I am 178cm and have proportionally long legs relative to my torso, but weigh 60kg (not so uncommon for a decently fit climber I would say). So basically I have to buy a S or XS so that the jersey fits, but then I would have the legs that would fit a regular 160cm rider...
All right James thank so much you for the common sense, science backed, and experience you bring to bikes and bike fitting. Please please help us in the states that are having difficulty finding a bike fitter. Most here use the Retul and of course are in Specilized shops or trek shops. Help us to be able to look at a bike fitter online and make an educated decision. I have watched all of your videos, and have been educated thank you. How does someone like me look a website and make a decision? These fitters are at least 1 hour and several hours away and $400. I’m riding an American road bike Klein stage 1997 that I know is too big, but causes minor issues on 1 to 2 hour rides. I would like to get a bike that is properly sized. Thanks and I love your channel. Dwight, from Louisiana
Specialized does a really good job of marketing the Retul system, that why many people think it's their only option. But there are plenty of fitter in the US that are in line with James [ who actually thinks logically about fit] Check out ClinicalBikeFit.com
So there was a guy at Unbound this weekend on a hardtail MTB with super wide bars that he had grafted drop bar ends onto. The whole rig was literally 3ft wide. Would have snapped a pic but I was too tired from scraping mud and hike a biking
Giant Contact SL OD2 Stem from 70 to 130mm in 10mm increments, 50 quid, available online or off the peg in Cadence shops. Sorted the reach on my Canyon. Not a problem.
With you all the way until 13:28. In USA, the mean clothing size is XL and the range to cover 90+ % of the population is Medium through XXXL. Bike sizes of small fitting the smallest 25 % of population, medium fitting middle 50 %, and large or xtra large fitting top 25 % makes more sense than clothing sizes.
Thankfully the road bike sizing has been more consistent. I had to go down a size in MTB as 29" found it's stride. For my last road bike, I compared the geometry from my 2014 bike with the new model and picked the size that was the closest in seat tube, effective top tube, and reach. I just wish it came with shorter cranks.
I spent hundreds of dollars on modern scientifically designed ergonomic saddles. Then I bought a Brooks team pro. It outlived six bikes. I'll never go back to ergo
Stack and reach has evolved into every bike but makes more sense with mountain bikes where it came from . Once you stand on the pedals and the seat is out of the way the saddle and seat tube angle have no relevance.
100% The genuinely significant measurement is BB to handlebar.
Год назад+7
The thing with Brooks saddles is that they are amazing when you're riding in an upright position. I have one on my city bike for a decade now and it just works perfectly. That's the one with a flat bar with gigantic sweep and not a bike where you need a fit on. Coming from this I did the mistake to get an Brooks C17 when I got my first serious bike just to quickly discover that it's in the way in aggressive riding positions. I got a Supacaz Scorch as a replacement and I do love this saddle so much! Speaking about wide dropbars for more control : there is this rare breed of people that like to ride dropbar mountain bikes for bikepacking on hiking trails and/or off-road ultras where they make a lot of sense. I started looking for a gravel bike, just to realise that gravel is boring and I want to ride the most remote trails possible. (If you aim to ride really remote trails swiftly, don't make the mistake to buy a Gravel bike, most of them are seriously undergeared. Get a dropbar mountain bike or build your own starting with mountain bike frame and cassette.)
Now I know why my feet started hurting after moving to Specialized shoes. Not something I noticed straight away, but after a few months of increased fitness and power my feet started killing me. I wish this was something that was stated upfront when buying the shoes.
I'm glad I seen this video cause I have a pair that I use for shopping runs and found that they feel a bit off while riding. I was thinking about getting a new pair for my normal rides, but now I won't.
Yes its true, I learned a lot from Sir. James now riding my RB for 100 k no body pain specialy my nee.... Thanks for the technique...Sir. James your a badass teacher 😊😊😊❤.
Chapter about flat bars! I wish I had seen it before I bought my current mountain bike just because of its looks and I ride it exclusively in the city on roads. Numbness, pins and needles, wrist pain - I get all of that every single ride and it made me begin question if I have the right bike for my case...thanks for confirming I indeed have a wrong bike! Can't wait to get a gravel bike and, hopefully, have better riding experience.
That's nothing to do with the flat bars. He was specifically talking about flat bars on gravel bikes (which have geometry suited to drops). If you've got hand issues work out what they are before dropping more cash on a different bike...
Last year I nearly went nuts trying to figure out which size of each bike I was considering I needed to look for. When you're trying to buy a bike and you go through websites of stores in your location its a madhouse really. Each time you have to go to each manufacturers website and check their size charts. I made the right decision in the end and managed to get the new bike to fit me nicely I believe by nothing more than getting a new stem 10 mm shorter. But the way manufacturers size their bikes and the way bike stores present this sizing info is very confusing.
I have a Brooks saddle but it is on my flat bar, upright, heavy duty touring bike. I wouldn't dream of using it on my gravel bike which has a Prologo saddle. Both are comfy for their intended use and both allow me to clock up the miles in comfort. I had a bike fit when I bought my gravel bike(Ribble CGR 725) and the guy put wedges under my Cleats. This worked for me as I have the problem you described (I knew this before I went but wanted to know if he spotted it - he did!). I then tried the Spcialised shoes - they were excruciating. I would love to know who has feet that narrow and deformed! Great video - lots of common sense.
I was about to go on a tirade because I LOVE Brooks saddles, but that was honestly a good assessment. Everyone I've met that said they didn't like Brooks saddles had their seat post 2 feet higher than their handlebars lol. Sounds crazy, but everyone's butt is different.
The difference between a 71deg and 73deg seat tube angle is only half a centimeter horizontally in reach for 350mm of seatpost protrusion above the clamping point or top tube. This is well within the seat rail adjustment range. My point is, seattube length and top tube length _are_ reliable metrics to go on. That half centimeter was for 2 degrees(!), meaning only about 1/4 centimeter per degree of seat tube angle variance. You don't need to overcomplicate things with something like stack and reach which oversimplify the solution to a problem that doesn't really exist. (sounds more like marketing powerplay to me) Brush up on your trigonimetry, or if you are, and just want to go the lazy route, use an online calculator to verify this.
My Cannondale tandem has a straight 1.5" stem. I nearly got a custom stem (or alternatively a custom tandem fork with tapered steerer) until I found I unicorn stem made by Cannondale a few years earlier. I'll never have another stem option on that bike.
I have Tourney shifters on 3 of my vintage 7 speed bicycles and I like them way over the old RSX shifters because RSX has no trim function on them. I found Tourney shifters easy to install and set up. Yes, they are not as good as the regular shifters but I don't race anymore since I am a senior rider and I usually spend almost 100% of my time on the hoods when riding.
Tourney might not be the most sophisticated stuff, but in its limits (means no extreme use) it works not that bad. Even if it don't cost much money it's still functioning equipment.
I'm currently converting my gravel bike to a commuter/city bike by throwing on a riser flat bar. Shorter reach, more upright position... I'm stoked about it!
@@markusseppala6547 yeah, bullhorns are a nice option for sure. With the setup I'm going to have, I'll have almost no pressure on the hands, so I think it'll be smooth as a short trip inner city kind of bike.
I have a hybrid so it already came with flat bars, but I put on wider Mtb bars on it a few years ago and love it . I use this bike for about everything, although I did find that gravel tires just can't take the abuse that a Mtb tire can, so I gave up on ripping it on Mtb trails.
James, so nice to have you back ❤ I never understood anatomic handlebars - who has anatomy like that? Spec shoes - had one pair, never again. As for an Aethos with Roubaix geometry, its why I still ride my 2011 Roubaix, with untrendy rim brakes, goofy Zertz inserts, 30mm tire clearance (now tubeless) included. Very comfy, and amortizing upgrade costs over time, its affordable, fit for my purpose.
It Doesn't matter how steep seat tube angle is. Horizontal distance between saddle and BB is determined by length of legs and feet. Slacker angle is negated with seatpost without setback and vice versa. Thus you can simply orientate by stack and reach. Everything other can be compansated with stem and handlebars.
I think stack and reach are excellent numbers to look at in mountainbikes, where the handling characteristics off saddle are possibly even more important than seated position ergonomics in certain disciplines. For road/gravel bike the saddle position needs to be included but there isn't standardized way to give meaningful headtube lenght. Is it linear, horizontal, horizontal accommodating seat post angle and at what height. And let's say there are two bikes with effectively same ass to palm distance achievable with adjustments, but one has BB 2cm further forward than other, WTF do I do then
Bike size: Never hurts to get fitted by a pro, yes? When I did I learned I was basically a modern ape with short legs, a long torso, long upper thighs and long arms. (I’m 5’8”.) When I (finally) got fitted I was surprised to learn that I needed a larger frame than what my inseam indicated as I required a longer top tube to get the correct amount of “stretch” as well as a little more seat setback. So, where many my height might choose a size small frame, I was better off with a larger frame to get a longer top tube. Also, a slightly more relaxed seat tube angle if you’re ape shaped like me. (Different strokes)
The Tourney brifters are just fine. Especially now when I think they are only available as 7 speed, if you want to STI some old bike, they might be the only option. It's still Shimano, gear changes are crisp and precise. There is also minimal cable housing involved and it's external with a gentle bend down to the frame. The thumb shifter is difficult to reach from the drops, but I don't think the target audience for these will mind.
Just rebuilt my left 20 year old Campy Centaur Ergoshifter, which can be almost completely taken apart. Didn't really have to as it was working ok. I just wanted to clean it up and regrease it to make shifting a bit smoother and perhaps extend its life a bit. I'm debating whether to do the same on the right one as I did this some years ago. I probably will, because, well, I can. Takes all of 30-60 minutes to take apart, clean, regrease and rebuild, IF you know what you're doing. If not, it'll take the better part of a day, most of it spent figuring out how they come apart and fit back together. My point is, better than Shimano in this respect.
I use the long reach 3t handlebars because allow enough space for my hands to rest comfortably and not cause numbness like shorter reach bars I have relative large hands, the shape of the lever housing and 25+ years of being a truck mechanic which takes a toll on your hands with all the hammering, wrench turning and holding onto impact guns
Guilty on the long reach bars, with the flat section in the drops. If I'm looking for a frame, I ignore frame sizes, and grab a frame with 73x73 angles, and a 58cm virtual top tube. (188cm tall, with shorter legs) I use a 13cm stem now, but used a 14, when I was racing (and was more flexible)
Francis has a few videos on his bikepacking setups, but generally you just need to work out your tyre clearance and get something bigger on there that you can run at lower pressures. For bikepacking, if possible, keep your luggage in-line with the bike - so frame bags, top tube bags, saddle packs - you're already adding weight, so keeping things streamlined will help with speed and handling, and overall comfort.
I ride a Broos Cambium and a Sella Italia leather saddle. I cycle commute and adventure tour (on flat pedlas). I regularly take multi day trips cycling 80-100kms a day for three and four days on the bounce. My mates all have fancy saddles, use chamois cream and padded bib shorts. I dont use cream, don't have a pad, don't use bib shorts. I dont uave any complaints, aches, or difficulties. I do wonder if that is because im not clipped in and my body makes small adjustments all the time rather than being in the same position. I guess on a trip like that I'm about 3 minutes a day slower than i would be if i was clipped in. Mind you, I'm also loaded up with peanut butter sandwiches and the like...
12:59 This. And not even size chart, but the fact size calculators are recommending wrong sizes. My first drop bar bike was Ridley Kanzo Fast. I selected size using their calculator. I am 179 cm height, 83 cm inseam, and it recommended me bike with 565 mm top tube and 110 mm stem integrated cockpit. With seat shoved all the way forward and narrower 100 mm cockpit it is acceptable, but buying new integrated cockpit and service work was quite a waste of money. I played a bit with their calculator. It recommends this size to a person with 79 cm inseam. This model has a high top tube. They would not be able even to stand over it, and seat tube would be 14 cm length. Ridiculous.
when it comes to bike sizes I'm meant to be riding a size 58 give or take but I often find myself around 54 to be more comfortable with my current bike being a 53CM frame from state
Bar reach - as a general recommendation on the assumption that the reach for most folk is too long is reasonable. But, like all generalizations it fails in specific cases. I’ve got 3 drop bar bikes and the bars are 46, 42 and 39. The stem lengths vary from 50 to 100, and all the bikes effective reach is similar. Why? Different applications. I like wider bars on drop bar mtbs and gravel bikes, my road bike fits James’s recommendation. Short reach bar, narrower bars and a traditional stem length. My gravel bike has longer reach bars, and this gives me more hand positions and different reaches for long days at slower speeds. Short reach bars mean you are generally riding the hoods, great for all day on a road bike but not necessarily ideal on off road drop bar bikes. The key is getting the fit right, if you do the reach of the bar is not really critical.
My 20-year-old bike has 2300 shifters. It's a bad design compared to Claris on up. You have to have your hands on the hoods to shift to a smaller chain ring or cog, and there are cables sticking out near the thumb shifters that make putting your hands on the hoods uncomfortable. (My Claris shifters are in the mail.)
In regards to bike sizes, does the riders inseam figure into the size of their future bike ❓ I understand that you can rise the saddle up, but does having the saddle very high change stability ❓Or should you increase bike to accommodate the riders leg length ❓
When the tourney levers came up i was worried it was somehow going to be about the side exit gear cables. How those are a fitting issue had me stumped. I have however regressed my cx bike to a set of side exit ultegra levers to try and improve shifting when everything is caked in mud. My old set with cables under the tape always seemed to drag when things got messy. Back to your normal programming...
Re the Aethos: I think the bike you are really asking for is the Crux. It has all the features of the Aethos but with the Allroad/endurance geometry most people really need and want.
Hi Mate, could you make a vid with James discussing what to look out for if your kids start to get on a road bike? My 7yo is riding a 24" road bike... and heck - i cant afford to get her fittet twice a month - but she's just growing way to fast... plus: I'm sometimes having a hard time getting feedback from her, if there's anything feeling bad etc...
I saw an Aethos in a local shop and nearly bought it on the spot. It was gorgeous. But then I went home and compared the geometry to my Roubaix and said, ‘why the hell have they done THAT?!’ I totally agree with you. With Roubaix geometry I would love the hell out of an Aethos. I do a ton of climbing. What bike is light and has that endurance geometry I prefer?
Isn't the long reach issue more to do with the combined reach you get from the Stem+Bar combo? As I understand it, if you shorten the stem and increase the handlebar reach, the controls are in the exact same position. The only thing that changes is the distance between the tops/corners and the hoods/hooks, which means a more-upright position when moving there.
My thoughts exactly. It could also result in a more relaxed climbing position. However, the downside *could* be that your legs hit the bar when you're climbing (or sprinting) out of the saddle. Interesting topic nevertheless.
I'd like to know James' thoughts (rants?) on the new Specialized Diverge. I imagine that much rear suspension will have huge ramifications for bike fit - your position on the bike will be constantly changing, significantly...
I have a tourney type system on my old giant defy (think 2011). I'm just cycling for fun/exercise but I like it. My biggest gripe with the cycling industry is over paralysis of everything. I shouldn't be left scratching my head trying to find a new bottom bracket.
I was caught out! 😒 - Did the research for a bike size and reach that should have been a 'good fit' for me (6'2" tall) and I wanted a shorter reach as I prefer a more upright riding position - I'm not under the illusion that I'm a 'pro' and won't be in the Tour de France any time soon! 😁. But ended up with a large secondhand Cube Attain .....which I ultimately realised was too long in the reach for me! I had two options: Sell it and start again, or make some relatively inexpensive modifications. I tried the modifications (some of these videos really helped) and it's made a big difference. I don't know if they were good changes, but please tell me if they weren't. I don't mind. Shorter stem with a raised angle - that made a significant difference!. I also bought 42mm O to O deda RHM Zero2 handlebars (after watching one of your videos) so that the width was right for me, to eliminate 'splayed arms' - that also reduce reach by a few mm too. A slight upward adjustment of the brake lever positions, again a few mm gained. All of these gave 'little gains' making the reach and ride position much more comfortable. The stem looks a big unconventional on a road bike, but getting a better position is much more important to me than how it looks....I'll be doing longer rides, not racing!
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James said that consumers need to learn how to read geometry tables. As a future video, could we get james' guide to geometry tables? :)
Thought that as soon as I’ve heard it.
I'd pay to see, oh I do already RUclips subscriber...
+1 for this video suggestion. Also how to compare potential newbikes on a geometry chart when replacing an older bike to mimic the older bike's fit on a newer one.
@@salsalawyer I have videos on my channel in that regard.
Agreed, i've no idea how to read one
Love it when James activates rage mode
Love the honesty, which is becoming increasingly hard to come by in the world of cycling. Agree with a lot of these - there's so much marketing jarg and over-engeneered nonsense that's simply not needed. A steel disc brake bike with decent clearance for larger tyres is the perfect bike because it can do the vast majority of things for the vast majority.
*As long as you expect medium performance at best... most ppl would be ok with that.
James is a real watch guy with the dime piece frog watch. 🤝
Someone post him an F91!! 😆. Great advice though......
I have a Brooks B17 Special on my touring bike the bars are level with the seat and its bliss, and Brooks C17 curve (rubber) on my gravel bike and it just works .
Same here, I love my Brooks B17 and cover long mileages in supreme comfort
The bike sizing thing is so true. I'm 195cm, which puts me in the top 1% of the UK population for height, yet I ride a large Canyon frame. There are two sizes above that!
What do you think about Merida Silex XL for 194 cm guy? 🤔😥
Modern geometry. Look a Beryl Burtons bike fit. Long and low and still holds records. I'm 6.1 and ride 60cm with 58 top. 90mm stem. Works perfectly as drop to bars not huge. Nowadays I would need, " endurance geometry ". . Progress. Na
Canyons tend to run really big. I'm 178cm and Canyon would suggest a small on their road and gravel frames, most road/gravel sizing guides for other brands would have me on a 56cm frame. On MTB frames I usually ride a large (my sweet spot on MTB reach is 470-480mm), a size L Strive is over 500mm reach
@@nickyburnell Sorry, I don't understand the second half of your comment. Could you explain me please? (from "Works...") Thanks 🙂
@@JanKowalski-ux6nt It depends! Only you know how long your legs, torso and arms are. Only you know your comfortable cycling positions. Best option get a bike fit, if you cannot do that try them out, if you cannot try a specific bike out try the nearest you can in terms of geometry.
I agree about those rear suspension. Systems built into the frame - they look like a problem waiting to happen.
However, I've been very pleasantly surprised by the Redshift shockstop post. The mk1 version with the springs is very easily tunable, and it irons out the more serious bumps that my 35mm tyres don't. Without any noticeable bobbing.
It's great for gravel and the crap, badly cracked concrete roads i ride. If I ever wanted to race, I could pull it off and stick on a lighter regular post.
Seems like the perfect compromise to me.
Cheers
I think part of the issue with the way rear suspension has been incorporated into road frames (and also some gravel, like that Diverge STR), is that the suspension operates on a parallel axis to the frame, as opposed to perpendicular like suspension on mtbs. Seatposts operate perpendicular, and a couple have no rearward deflection at all. It still changes your fit, but at such a small drop its probably not really a major impact. Flexing 20-30mm rearward though not only changes knee position in relation to pedals, but also stretches you away from the cockpit. Seems so sketch to me.
The Specialized Aethos costs 5.200 Euro for the Comp version with a 105. The S-Works version costs around 15.000. How could this even remotely be considered a "bike for the people" in the first place?
saying the SL7 is only for pro / competition also surprised me, it sure is a performance bike, but is quite versatile and a great allrounder, i know a lot of "amateurs" who chose a SL7 rather than two different bikes
I think he means that the aethos isn't meant for racers. It's just for people who enjoy riding bikes, albeit quite wealthy people. And by the way, the Aethos with geometry for normal people has already been made, it's called the Crux. Just put some high-ish gears on it and tyres that aren't too chunky and Bob's your uncle.
My thoughts exactly, it's utterly taking the mick. Triban/Van Rysel is a bike for the people, especially since the prices have gone up.
Specialized stuff has been laughably expensive in Europe for 20 year at least.
@@TheWoogeroo true but he wasn't talking about cost.
I would love to see you address the issue of crank length. Generally I find crank length to be excessive on almost every bike. It's rare to find anything below 170 mm except on S or XS frames.
Going to 165 cranks is the best thing I've ever done for my knees, everything medium and under should come with at least that short in my opinion
The thing with Brooks **leather** saddles is that they've got incredibly short rails, and were designed back in the time when angles were more slack, and all seatposts had setback.
If your bike has steep angles, and you want a very specific seatpost, you better know that the sizing and fit is bang-on.
If you have a bike, where all that is bang-on, you will be quite happy with your durable flexy saddle, even for all day riding, but it can easily go either way.
When you go to the Cambrium rubber saddles, you've got a lot more room for adjustment, but you better hope the shape and flex of them is exactly what you like.
I've used both the Brooks B17 carved and C17 (cambium) carved on my fixed gear as well as my two gravel bikes, all of which have a saddle to bar drop of around 34 mm. I like both saddles, but the B17 (aka the leather one) is easily the most comfortable saddle I've used. Maybe it's because my saddle to bar drop is rather shallow, but it just works. At one point it did become more uncomfortable once the leather started to sag, but tightening the screw on the bottom made it super comfortable again.
Yeah, b17 narrow on my road and gravel bikes. No dramas for me after many thousands of KMs.
I’ve got a B17 Flyer on my Brompton, easily the most comfortable saddle. Recently tried an Ergon saddle followed by a WTB Volt, then put the Flyer back on and tightened up the bolt and I’m back to comfort again.
B17 on my gravel as well. It’s 13 years old and I keep it softened and looked-after…..it’s glorious.
B17 fixed my saddle sore problems and pretty much all crotch pain issues. I've never found a saddle anywhere close to is comfort.
Done a few ultra's in my time, B17 imperial on a Diverge frame with *gasp* Futureshock suspension: 500km in
"Thumbs like Edward Scissorhands"... gold! Haha, love this guy and stoked you have him on the channel from time to time.
The Trek VCLS handlebar being long reach makes so much sense! I've a 58 Trek and I get bad neck and shoulder pain, feel like I've to stretch too far. Other similar sizes frames I had no such issue.
56 Trek for me came with a 7degree 100 stem and those bars with 93 reach. Put a 6degree 90 stem on ages ago and it's a bit better. Next time my bar tape or brake bleed is due I'm definitely swapping down to an 80 or 70 bar. Gravel bikes do generally spec 70s these days (except Trek lol) but I've still got a pretty long torso and I ride drops a lot so I'm leaning towards the 80.
Trek road frames are all really short though, they’re making them back up to the usual length with a longer reach handlebar.
You’re probably just on the wrong size bike.
The alternative to the aethos is the winspace slc. and at half the price. Also the cube agree c62. endurance focused aero bike
I have have C62 cyclo cross bike brilliant and can put road wheels on it cost me just over 2k in the sale.
Who ever buys a winspace bike has lost the plot.
Regarding long reach handlebars, all the "avoid" handlebars could actually be good handlebars to buy for fixed gear riders which is pretty funny. Since they don't usually use STIs or brake levers with hoods the longer reach on the handlebars make them easier to hold
100%
I have friends with deda bars on fixed, it's not fun lol
exactly what i thought
I run a Bontrager VR-C on my State Black Label. It’s perfect 😅
Also what if you have long arms or a long torso? Long reach bars would be a solution
Perhaps, the most important section was James' commentary on *_over-simplification_*_ of stack & reach_ measurements - very helpful
I brought my canyon endurace 4 years ago, I am 5’9” mature 50+, I was convinced I was a medium size but the canyon chart said I was a small, I brought the small,for my me it was a massive difference coming from a M/L TCR which was recommended for me by local bike shop who just looked me up and down and said yeah that’ll fit.
Same for me but I just went trial and error. I'm also 5'9" and started on a 54cm Fuji since it was my recommended size. I rode it for 3,500 miles and tried every position imaginable but never quite felt like the bike fit. I jumped on a 52cm frame for a test ride and it immediately felt perfect. I have over 6,000 miles on it now in comfort.
Canyons run big, but I would have put you on a medium giant in an eye blink. The m/l is for six footers.
Just use a shorter stem for long reach bars. Mine are 104mm so I swapped the 100mm stem for an 80mm stem. I like the tops being closer when climbing and the longer reach bars give me that greater differential between hoods and tops.
Love these videos; thanks James and Francis. I too would like to see a fitting that then translates to a geometry table. I have several bikes (touring, gravel, road), and have had several bike fittings, but couldn’t tell you anything about what geometry fits me for any of my bikes.
Great points! It’s taken me 50 years as an avid recreational cyclist to figure out what makes one bike fit and be fast and fun and others to just never feel right. More money does not mean a better fit and more speed. Your point about if you need flat bars on your gravel bike, you’re probably on the wrong bike, is spot on.
Awesome informative video! My x-small 2024 Creo 2 Expert e-assist gravel bike fits like a glove. My 2014 x-small Marinoni touring bike has similar feel as well. Riding my 16 year trek Madone and 20 year old Cannondale Slice I certainly feel the different geometry of those old frames as being a 65 5'2" gal l feel less flexible that 20 years ago.😊
I love my aethos. The stack height is greater on the aethos than the tarmac sl7 making it more relaxed.
That's because both the SL7 and Aethos stack dimensions are given to the top of the bearing and on the SL7 it sits below the top tube by about 7mm, once the proprietary bearing cover is installed the stack becomes identical (this obviously effects the reach too). Technically you can choose to not use the proprietary bearing cover in favour of an external to internal type (basically a standard cover with holes drilled in it) on the SL7 and drop the stack below that of the Aethos but it looks weird as the bearing cover integrates into the frame and it leaves an ugly gap.
I think Francis rides a size named 52 addict RC which has a 540 effective top tube length. That is hardly small regardless of whatever its called.
And if I remember well, James (who’s like 5’10”) used to ride a size S Open Up… which goes to show how big most bikes actually are
My bicycle fitting pet peeve are road/gravel bicycle brake levers with integral master cylinders for hydraulic disc brakes. This increases the reach of the brake lever body, making it difficult to find a position where it's comfortable to ride on both the hoods and the drops. You're either too stretched out when riding the hoods or too cramped when riding the drops.
At the beginning of the season I bought a specialized SL7 shoe, got them snug for racing crits. I love them and they feel super stiff. Well a couple months later and now I probably have a bunion (which can only be corrected by surgery... awesome!) forming under my pinky toe knuckle joint. So now I'm back to riding my 5 year old shimano shoes.
Hi you're right about specialized shoes. Now you say it, this summer I wore specialized shoes for 9 days all day long for an ultra cycling event and got a callus on one of my external toes (the one usually resting upfront.
Love my long reach handlebars....they are a necessity if you are equipped with long arms and big hands.
I don’t have the spring one but I love my Brooks B17
Yeah what do I know? I'm riding a Cambium C15 carved on my SS drop bar bike, zero comfort issues, and I never think about the saddle, which of course is exactly what you want.
Agree about frame sizing. Absolutely crucial to try before you buy. Also, aside from bike frames, cycling clothing manufacturers need to address their flawed sizing structures too. They seem to assume that height is somehow proportional to how unfit you are. That the taller you are, the fatter you must therefore be. Nightmare for people 6ft 2" + who have the physique of a healthy eating regular cyclist. To me that just seems like a flawed and somewhat paradoxical logic in sizing structure. I'm sure Jimmy will have opinions on this but for us tall skinny guys it's kind of frustrating. The amount of money I've wasted on kit over the years bears not thinking about.
It goes the other way too. I'm of similar lenght but lift weights, so my chest is XXXXXL according to manufacturers from Italy. And XL when buying Norwegian clothing. The sizing is all over the place and there don't seem to be any standards.
Have you tried Kalas kit? Their sizing is not S, M, L etc but is numbered 3, 4, 5 etc which is a little bit odd. But they also have a longer "plus" size - so 3+, 4+ and so on. Same sizing, just a bit longer for taller riders.
Even worse is when looking for a skinsuit. I am 178cm and have proportionally long legs relative to my torso, but weigh 60kg (not so uncommon for a decently fit climber I would say). So basically I have to buy a S or XS so that the jersey fits, but then I would have the legs that would fit a regular 160cm rider...
there is a bit more $topping the Aetho$ from being a "bike of the people" than the geometry.
All right James thank so much you for the common sense, science backed, and experience you bring to bikes and bike fitting.
Please please help us in the states that are having difficulty finding a bike fitter. Most here use the Retul and of course are in Specilized shops or trek shops. Help us to be able to look at a bike fitter online and make an educated decision. I have watched all of your videos, and have been educated thank you. How does someone like me look a website and make a decision? These fitters are at least 1 hour and several hours away and $400.
I’m riding an American road bike Klein stage 1997 that I know is too big, but causes minor issues on 1 to 2 hour rides. I would like to get a bike that is properly sized.
Thanks and I love your channel.
Dwight, from Louisiana
Specialized does a really good job of marketing the Retul system, that why many people think it's their only option. But there are plenty of fitter in the US that are in line with James [ who actually thinks logically about fit] Check out ClinicalBikeFit.com
So there was a guy at Unbound this weekend on a hardtail MTB with super wide bars that he had grafted drop bar ends onto. The whole rig was literally 3ft wide. Would have snapped a pic but I was too tired from scraping mud and hike a biking
Giant Contact SL OD2 Stem from 70 to 130mm in 10mm increments, 50 quid, available online or off the peg in Cadence shops. Sorted the reach on my Canyon. Not a problem.
I'm enamoured by the clean workshop and high quality tools on display.
With you all the way until 13:28. In USA, the mean clothing size is XL and the range to cover 90+ % of the population is Medium through XXXL. Bike sizes of small fitting the smallest 25 % of population, medium fitting middle 50 %, and large or xtra large fitting top 25 % makes more sense than clothing sizes.
Thankfully the road bike sizing has been more consistent. I had to go down a size in MTB as 29" found it's stride. For my last road bike, I compared the geometry from my 2014 bike with the new model and picked the size that was the closest in seat tube, effective top tube, and reach. I just wish it came with shorter cranks.
I spent hundreds of dollars on modern scientifically designed ergonomic saddles. Then I bought a Brooks team pro. It outlived six bikes. I'll never go back to ergo
I also have more than 25 yoe in bike fitting. I adjusted my saddle when I was 5.
13:50 Would appreciate a specific video on how to read geometry tables from a consumer perspective.
I'd suggest from left to right
Stack and reach has evolved into every bike but makes more sense with mountain bikes where it came from . Once you stand on the pedals and the seat is out of the way the saddle and seat tube angle have no relevance.
100% The genuinely significant measurement is BB to handlebar.
The thing with Brooks saddles is that they are amazing when you're riding in an upright position. I have one on my city bike for a decade now and it just works perfectly. That's the one with a flat bar with gigantic sweep and not a bike where you need a fit on. Coming from this I did the mistake to get an Brooks C17 when I got my first serious bike just to quickly discover that it's in the way in aggressive riding positions. I got a Supacaz Scorch as a replacement and I do love this saddle so much!
Speaking about wide dropbars for more control : there is this rare breed of people that like to ride dropbar mountain bikes for bikepacking on hiking trails and/or off-road ultras where they make a lot of sense. I started looking for a gravel bike, just to realise that gravel is boring and I want to ride the most remote trails possible.
(If you aim to ride really remote trails swiftly, don't make the mistake to buy a Gravel bike, most of them are seriously undergeared. Get a dropbar mountain bike or build your own starting with mountain bike frame and cassette.)
Undergeared? They are normally geared like road bikes aren't they while my MTB is running 36-10-52 😂
Now I know why my feet started hurting after moving to Specialized shoes. Not something I noticed straight away, but after a few months of increased fitness and power my feet started killing me. I wish this was something that was stated upfront when buying the shoes.
Me also. Have had issues with them for a long time now.
I'm glad I seen this video cause I have a pair that I use for shopping runs and found that they feel a bit off while riding. I was thinking about getting a new pair for my normal rides, but now I won't.
Specialized used to (maybe still do) brand this as "Body Geometry" but in most people's experience it is usually geometry for someone else's body...
Yes its true, I learned a lot from Sir. James now riding my RB for 100 k no body pain specialy my nee.... Thanks for the technique...Sir. James your a badass teacher 😊😊😊❤.
thanks for mentioning the spezialised shoes, i just got those. i will check how my bones are and then see which shoes are the best
James' watch is so incredibly based it's crazy
incredibly based??
@@cappaculla "being yourself and not caring what others think of you-to carry yourself with swagger"
@@davidm3773 thats a slang used by a talentless rapper isn't it?
@@cappaculla YO BRO..whats hangin
@@cappaculla he also wears an omega moon watch
Chapter about flat bars! I wish I had seen it before I bought my current mountain bike just because of its looks and I ride it exclusively in the city on roads.
Numbness, pins and needles, wrist pain - I get all of that every single ride and it made me begin question if I have the right bike for my case...thanks for confirming I indeed have a wrong bike!
Can't wait to get a gravel bike and, hopefully, have better riding experience.
That's nothing to do with the flat bars. He was specifically talking about flat bars on gravel bikes (which have geometry suited to drops). If you've got hand issues work out what they are before dropping more cash on a different bike...
Long reach handlbars with a short stem provide a relief from drops, hoods to the tops, for recreation and touring.
Last year I nearly went nuts trying to figure out which size of each bike I was considering I needed to look for. When you're trying to buy a bike and you go through websites of stores in your location its a madhouse really. Each time you have to go to each manufacturers website and check their size charts.
I made the right decision in the end and managed to get the new bike to fit me nicely I believe by nothing more than getting a new stem 10 mm shorter. But the way manufacturers size their bikes and the way bike stores present this sizing info is very confusing.
I have a Brooks saddle but it is on my flat bar, upright, heavy duty touring bike. I wouldn't dream of using it on my gravel bike which has a Prologo saddle. Both are comfy for their intended use and both allow me to clock up the miles in comfort. I had a bike fit when I bought my gravel bike(Ribble CGR 725) and the guy put wedges under my Cleats. This worked for me as I have the problem you described (I knew this before I went but wanted to know if he spotted it - he did!). I then tried the Spcialised shoes - they were excruciating. I would love to know who has feet that narrow and deformed! Great video - lots of common sense.
I have a Brooks B17 on my touring bike and it’s by far the best saddle I’ve ever used. Can we get a video on mountain bike bike fitting please ?
glad i'm flexible enough to be riding an aethos...learnt something about the spesh shoes i didn't know, thanks....
I was about to go on a tirade because I LOVE Brooks saddles, but that was honestly a good assessment. Everyone I've met that said they didn't like Brooks saddles had their seat post 2 feet higher than their handlebars lol. Sounds crazy, but everyone's butt is different.
I absolutely love the Trek decouplers they are expensive but they are phenomenal.
The difference between a 71deg and 73deg seat tube angle is only half a centimeter horizontally in reach for 350mm of seatpost protrusion above the clamping point or top tube. This is well within the seat rail adjustment range.
My point is, seattube length and top tube length _are_ reliable metrics to go on. That half centimeter was for 2 degrees(!), meaning only about 1/4 centimeter per degree of seat tube angle variance.
You don't need to overcomplicate things with something like stack and reach which oversimplify the solution to a problem that doesn't really exist. (sounds more like marketing powerplay to me)
Brush up on your trigonimetry, or if you are, and just want to go the lazy route, use an online calculator to verify this.
i have a shimano claris groupset on my road bike, really like it
I built up a gravel bike last year with Claris and every time I ride it I'm impressed by the shift quality. It's really good.
My Cannondale tandem has a straight 1.5" stem. I nearly got a custom stem (or alternatively a custom tandem fork with tapered steerer) until I found I unicorn stem made by Cannondale a few years earlier. I'll never have another stem option on that bike.
I have Tourney shifters on 3 of my vintage 7 speed bicycles and I like them way over the old RSX shifters because RSX has no trim function on them. I found Tourney shifters easy to install and set up. Yes, they are not as good as the regular shifters but I don't race anymore since I am a senior rider and I usually spend almost 100% of my time on the hoods when riding.
Tourney might not be the most sophisticated stuff, but in its limits (means no extreme use) it works not that bad. Even if it don't cost much money it's still functioning equipment.
@@simonm1447 I agree, my 7 speed Tourney is for leisure riders or beginners, not racing.
I'm currently converting my gravel bike to a commuter/city bike by throwing on a riser flat bar. Shorter reach, more upright position... I'm stoked about it!
I did that once but my wrists couldn't get used to the straight bar, if I did it again I would probably try a bullhorn bar.
@@markusseppala6547 yeah, bullhorns are a nice option for sure. With the setup I'm going to have, I'll have almost no pressure on the hands, so I think it'll be smooth as a short trip inner city kind of bike.
I have a hybrid so it already came with flat bars, but I put on wider Mtb bars on it a few years ago and love it . I use this bike for about everything, although I did find that gravel tires just can't take the abuse that a Mtb tire can, so I gave up on ripping it on Mtb trails.
Thanks! Not so related to this video. What is the difference between Lake CX332 and CX403, besides the heat moldable heel on the former?
James, so nice to have you back ❤ I never understood anatomic handlebars - who has anatomy like that? Spec shoes - had one pair, never again. As for an Aethos with Roubaix geometry, its why I still ride my 2011 Roubaix, with untrendy rim brakes, goofy Zertz inserts, 30mm tire clearance (now tubeless) included. Very comfy, and amortizing upgrade costs over time, its affordable, fit for my purpose.
It Doesn't matter how steep seat tube angle is. Horizontal distance between saddle and BB is determined by length of legs and feet. Slacker angle is negated with seatpost without setback and vice versa. Thus you can simply orientate by stack and reach. Everything other can be compansated with stem and handlebars.
Want another Francis, Lawrence, James trip! The best!
Loving the podcast and hearing you in longer form content!
I think stack and reach are excellent numbers to look at in mountainbikes, where the handling characteristics off saddle are possibly even more important than seated position ergonomics in certain disciplines. For road/gravel bike the saddle position needs to be included but there isn't standardized way to give meaningful headtube lenght. Is it linear, horizontal, horizontal accommodating seat post angle and at what height. And let's say there are two bikes with effectively same ass to palm distance achievable with adjustments, but one has BB 2cm further forward than other, WTF do I do then
Bike size: Never hurts to get fitted by a pro, yes? When I did I learned I was basically a modern ape with short legs, a long torso, long upper thighs and long arms. (I’m 5’8”.) When I (finally) got fitted I was surprised to learn that I needed a larger frame than what my inseam indicated as I required a longer top tube to get the correct amount of “stretch” as well as a little more seat setback. So, where many my height might choose a size small frame, I was better off with a larger frame to get a longer top tube. Also, a slightly more relaxed seat tube angle if you’re ape shaped like me. (Different strokes)
I love my Sora 8 speed with the thumb lever.
The Tourney brifters are just fine. Especially now when I think they are only available as 7 speed, if you want to STI some old bike, they might be the only option. It's still Shimano, gear changes are crisp and precise. There is also minimal cable housing involved and it's external with a gentle bend down to the frame. The thumb shifter is difficult to reach from the drops, but I don't think the target audience for these will mind.
Just rebuilt my left 20 year old Campy Centaur Ergoshifter, which can be almost completely taken apart. Didn't really have to as it was working ok. I just wanted to clean it up and regrease it to make shifting a bit smoother and perhaps extend its life a bit. I'm debating whether to do the same on the right one as I did this some years ago. I probably will, because, well, I can. Takes all of 30-60 minutes to take apart, clean, regrease and rebuild, IF you know what you're doing. If not, it'll take the better part of a day, most of it spent figuring out how they come apart and fit back together.
My point is, better than Shimano in this respect.
Just checked the geometry SL7 vs Aethos. They are not the same, but close. 54cm - Stack 534mm vs 544mm and Reach 387mm vs 384mm
SL7 geo chart is taken without any headset spacers. When accounted for the "mandatory" bottom and top transition spacers the geo is identical.
I use the long reach 3t handlebars because allow enough space for my hands to rest comfortably and not cause numbness like shorter reach bars
I have relative large hands, the shape of the lever housing and 25+ years of being a truck mechanic which takes a toll on your hands with all the hammering, wrench turning and holding onto impact guns
Guilty on the long reach bars, with the flat section in the drops. If I'm looking for a frame, I ignore frame sizes, and grab a frame with 73x73 angles, and a 58cm virtual top tube. (188cm tall, with shorter legs) I use a 13cm stem now, but used a 14, when I was racing (and was more flexible)
How could you easily adjust your bike to go from racing to bikepacking regarding comfort and fit? And any tips for bikepacking bike set-up in general?
Do a mtb bike packing set up pls
Francis has a few videos on his bikepacking setups, but generally you just need to work out your tyre clearance and get something bigger on there that you can run at lower pressures. For bikepacking, if possible, keep your luggage in-line with the bike - so frame bags, top tube bags, saddle packs - you're already adding weight, so keeping things streamlined will help with speed and handling, and overall comfort.
Oh yeah locked out the FS on my Diverge but still use it on the Roubaix
Love and miss James on this channel. been way too long.
I ride a Broos Cambium and a Sella Italia leather saddle. I cycle commute and adventure tour (on flat pedlas). I regularly take multi day trips cycling 80-100kms a day for three and four days on the bounce. My mates all have fancy saddles, use chamois cream and padded bib shorts. I dont use cream, don't have a pad, don't use bib shorts. I dont uave any complaints, aches, or difficulties.
I do wonder if that is because im not clipped in and my body makes small adjustments all the time rather than being in the same position.
I guess on a trip like that I'm about 3 minutes a day slower than i would be if i was clipped in. Mind you, I'm also loaded up with peanut butter sandwiches and the like...
12:59 This. And not even size chart, but the fact size calculators are recommending wrong sizes. My first drop bar bike was Ridley Kanzo Fast. I selected size using their calculator. I am 179 cm height, 83 cm inseam, and it recommended me bike with 565 mm top tube and 110 mm stem integrated cockpit. With seat shoved all the way forward and narrower 100 mm cockpit it is acceptable, but buying new integrated cockpit and service work was quite a waste of money. I played a bit with their calculator. It recommends this size to a person with 79 cm inseam. This model has a high top tube. They would not be able even to stand over it, and seat tube would be 14 cm length. Ridiculous.
when it comes to bike sizes I'm meant to be riding a size 58 give or take but I often find myself around 54 to be more comfortable with my current bike being a 53CM frame from state
Bar reach - as a general recommendation on the assumption that the reach for most folk is too long is reasonable. But, like all generalizations it fails in specific cases. I’ve got 3 drop bar bikes and the bars are 46, 42 and 39. The stem lengths vary from 50 to 100, and all the bikes effective reach is similar. Why? Different applications. I like wider bars on drop bar mtbs and gravel bikes, my road bike fits James’s recommendation. Short reach bar, narrower bars and a traditional stem length. My gravel bike has longer reach bars, and this gives me more hand positions and different reaches for long days at slower speeds. Short reach bars mean you are generally riding the hoods, great for all day on a road bike but not necessarily ideal on off road drop bar bikes. The key is getting the fit right, if you do the reach of the bar is not really critical.
I agree with the thought of unnecessary suspenstion- although it isn't about bike fitting...
Lovee\ the Brooks saddle on my mtb, hate the brooks saddle on my road, and gravel bikes.
My 20-year-old bike has 2300 shifters. It's a bad design compared to Claris on up. You have to have your hands on the hoods to shift to a smaller chain ring or cog, and there are cables sticking out near the thumb shifters that make putting your hands on the hoods uncomfortable. (My Claris shifters are in the mail.)
My first road bike had Tornay shifters. They were ok for my first century ride, but then I discovered 105 and the rest is history!
Love my brookes saddle, allowed me to do over 200km with ease on gravel. no sorre butt either.
In terms of the specialised shoes, what would be the symptoms? Would I likely to experience pain in the inside or outside of the knee?
In regards to bike sizes, does the riders inseam figure into the size of their future bike ❓ I understand that you can rise the saddle up, but does having the saddle very high change stability ❓Or should you increase bike to accommodate the riders leg length ❓
James, what manufacturers make narrow road shoes, I expect you will say lake, if so what model. Thanks
When the tourney levers came up i was worried it was somehow going to be about the side exit gear cables. How those are a fitting issue had me stumped.
I have however regressed my cx bike to a set of side exit ultegra levers to try and improve shifting when everything is caked in mud. My old set with cables under the tape always seemed to drag when things got messy.
Back to your normal programming...
Used to rely on my side exit cables to catch my hand when riding a bumpy road while knackered... I miss them!
Great vid
What about top 10 off shelf road bike and same for gravel….
Re the Aethos: I think the bike you are really asking for is the Crux. It has all the features of the Aethos but with the Allroad/endurance geometry most people really need and want.
I want to book a fit!
Now I just need to hop a plane across the pond.
Hi Mate, could you make a vid with James discussing what to look out for if your kids start to get on a road bike? My 7yo is riding a 24" road bike... and heck - i cant afford to get her fittet twice a month - but she's just growing way to fast... plus: I'm sometimes having a hard time getting feedback from her, if there's anything feeling bad etc...
I saw an Aethos in a local shop and nearly bought it on the spot. It was gorgeous.
But then I went home and compared the geometry to my Roubaix and said, ‘why the hell have they done THAT?!’
I totally agree with you. With Roubaix geometry I would love the hell out of an Aethos.
I do a ton of climbing. What bike is light and has that endurance geometry I prefer?
Look at the Open MiND or a Canyon Endurace SLX. Not as light as the Aethos, but a much more forgiving geometry.
Brooks was the jam in 1977. Then '78 Concor brought out the modern saddle.
I've always ridden a Brooks. I am curious how his critique of leather saddles is different from riding other saddles.
Isn't the long reach issue more to do with the combined reach you get from the Stem+Bar combo? As I understand it, if you shorten the stem and increase the handlebar reach, the controls are in the exact same position. The only thing that changes is the distance between the tops/corners and the hoods/hooks, which means a more-upright position when moving there.
My thoughts exactly. It could also result in a more relaxed climbing position. However, the downside *could* be that your legs hit the bar when you're climbing (or sprinting) out of the saddle. Interesting topic nevertheless.
@@hymen0callis I've never had that issue, but I'm more proportioned with a long torso and shorter limbs haha
I'd like to know James' thoughts (rants?) on the new Specialized Diverge. I imagine that much rear suspension will have huge ramifications for bike fit - your position on the bike will be constantly changing, significantly...
What about Brooks Cambium saddles for long distance on/off/road cycling on a gravel bike?
I have a tourney type system on my old giant defy (think 2011). I'm just cycling for fun/exercise but I like it. My biggest gripe with the cycling industry is over paralysis of everything. I shouldn't be left scratching my head trying to find a new bottom bracket.
I was caught out! 😒 - Did the research for a bike size and reach that should have been a 'good fit' for me (6'2" tall) and I wanted a shorter reach as I prefer a more upright riding position - I'm not under the illusion that I'm a 'pro' and won't be in the Tour de France any time soon! 😁. But ended up with a large secondhand Cube Attain .....which I ultimately realised was too long in the reach for me!
I had two options: Sell it and start again, or make some relatively inexpensive modifications. I tried the modifications (some of these videos really helped) and it's made a big difference.
I don't know if they were good changes, but please tell me if they weren't. I don't mind.
Shorter stem with a raised angle - that made a significant difference!. I also bought 42mm O to O deda RHM Zero2 handlebars (after watching one of your videos) so that the width was right for me, to eliminate 'splayed arms' - that also reduce reach by a few mm too. A slight upward adjustment of the brake lever positions, again a few mm gained.
All of these gave 'little gains' making the reach and ride position much more comfortable. The stem looks a big unconventional on a road bike, but getting a better position is much more important to me than how it looks....I'll be doing longer rides, not racing!
Again, excellent content! Thank You James 🙏