Lost two bolts on the left shoe during a ride and couldn’t twist to clip out. Had to be helped out of the attached shoe and then the shoe had to be wrenched out of the pedal
@@gcntech It has happened to me twice that the bolts on one of my SPD cleats have come loose on the road and I almost crashed when I tried to unclick them. Since then, I've always checked that the plates are tight before setting off and I use screw-locking glue on the bolts. And on multi day trips i also take a spare cleat and screws with me.
I always empty my bike bags after a ride and dry/service the tools. This was a lesson learned after neglecting them for a period some years ago finding a rusty mess!
It's amazing how many folks bring their neglected bike to the shop on Friday or Saturday for a 'tune up' before this weekends event. (yes, we'll have that ready by Tuesday)
9:05 To prevent the inevitable rub wear to a new spare tube as it is being carried within a saddlebag, you could put said tube into an old thin sock to abate any abrasion from other items.
5:10 verniers give an inaccurate measure of disc thickness: they only measure the thicker part at the edges of the braking track, where the middle, like a concave rim brake track, can be way past the wear limit. Either use the jaw tip extenders Park Tool make, or get a micrometer, to measure the middle of the disc brake track.
Absolutely. The difference on an Ice-Tech rotor between new (1.77 mm) and worn (1.5 mm) is only 0.27 mm. That’s roughly .011” or about the thickness of 3 sheets of paper, give or take.
Key word early in the video: “checklist” I keep a checklist (many, actually!) in the Notes app for checking my bike. A checklist helps because as you learn lessons (usually the hard way!) you simply add that to the checklist and then you won’t forget them again. Unless you forget to USE the checklist, that is! 😅 Electronics have made this whole process much more complicated and critical. FWIW, which isn’t much, I grew up in the nuclear weapons business where checklists were mandatory so I established good checklist discipline early. I still make mistakes, but usually not twice! 😊
Dust your inner tubes with talcum powder then wrap them all in cling film before putting them in your saddle bag. This stops rubbing on other items AND makes them a bit easier to fit if you get a irreparable puncture. Also I find the tighter packed saddle bag and it cinched up to your saddle stops rubbing as otherwise everything is wobbling around.
And if you do change or tighten anything, take a leaf out of the F1 playbook and go for a quick "installation lap", to check for creaks or any other issues you'd discover within 30s of starting the event. Finally don't forget the obligatory M-check before actually starting the event, or any ride for that matter.
Great to include the importance of a torque wrench, even if it’s just one of those calibrated t-wrenches. In the old days with steel and aluminum, you could just tighten to check. Now with carbon fiber, I first loosen, then tighten to torque spec. You do not want to over-tighten carbon parts. Just my two cents! 😊
I take a digital tyre pressure gauge to the event as most pump gauges are poor, and I put my (TPU) spare tube(s) in a tough plastic bag inside my saddle bag
@@gcntech Fairly bumpy. I do mostly casual riding on various streets with some gravel trips and racing. I suspect the saddle hardware of being the cause. It is the original equipment. I plan on upgrading to a better fitting saddle soon anyway. Being very hefty myself probably doesn’t help. Lol
@brianphillips7696 you either not torqueing your bolts to spec in cases of like material (ie steel bolt in steel threads) or you need to use a thread locking compound whenever you have dissimilar materials (ie steel bolt in aluminum threads). You can always use a mild threadlocker just to be sure (ie loctite blue).
If 3-5Nm of pressure can't hold your seat post use assembly compound. The Park Tools brand has the biggest chunks of silicon in it and is the most grippy. It's friction that holds seat posts NOT the seat post collar bolt. If it's the other stuff just purple loctite it. If none of that works get a fancy Nitto seat post and a fancy saddle and enjoy, that's what I do, lol.
Cheap digital vernier calipers can be found in Aldi or Lidl, or the big DIY stores for a few quid. They're easy to read and accurate enough for bike maintenance. You'll be surprised how often they come in handy.
Wheel and rotor true! I check those two constantly, and very carefully before big rides/races. Wheel true checks are important to find loose spokes or other problems. Used to be more important with rim brakes, but still important if you have disc brakes. Also check the true of disc brake rotors. I tweak my rotors constantly to keep them running true and really makes a difference. If necessary I clean the rotors and sometimes the brake pads to avoid the brutal brake scream. I would just add that when truing wheels and rotors, small tweaks pay big dividends. Even if you have a major issue, over-correcting creates its own problems. See great Park Tool (Calvin Jones) videos on truing wheels and brake pads. Calvin always makes great educational videos. Just my two cents! 😊
@@gcntech Park Tool DT-2 rotor truing fork. Eyeball rotor using piece of paper on floor (white) and back light to more easily see rotor deflections through the pads. Job 1 is to make sure the rotor isn’t touching the pads anywhere. Job 2 is to true it so braking is smooth. Rotors are very sensitive so tweaking and eyeballing is required. You have to get the eye angle JUST right and keep the bike steady to get it right. Truing it on the bike is better than using a separate truing stand, which I have, but only on the bike can you see that the rotors are properly centered and true. 🧐
@5:08 You say to measure the disk brake using a vernier calliper . Perhaps not. If the disk wears in a way that leaves them concave. You will only be measuring the outer part of the disk which will be still at the correct thickness. Instead, judge by feeling difference between the thickness of the braking surface and just below.
Loose chainring bolts caused me to mechanical out of 2023 SBT GRVL. small ring was hanging! I wasn’t going to do 65 miles of big hills in the big ring so I rode back to town
@@gcntech Yup, I'm doing SBT GRVL (black) again this year as I live in Colorado. Also making a dream trip to your side of the pond for FNLD GRVL! Was able to get my company to pay for the airfare (woohoo!).
IMO, headset, stem and chainring bolts should be purple loctited so they can never vibrate loose. It's much better at stopping rust than either dry or greased, and it's only about 12Nm of force to break purple loctite so there is no chance it could get stuck or even damage fancy Ti bolts when removing.
I always check for headset play every once in a while and have been doing it for a few years the way it's shown here. Recently though I was thinking I had some headset play that just wouldn't go away no matter how much I messed with it and figured out it was actually the disc brake's center lock coming loose and the play I was feeling wasn't from the headset but the disc itself. Only happened once to me with a rim brake caliper coming loose on the fork and didn't know it could happen with a disk brake's center lock. You can also check headset play by grabbing the fork itself and handlebars as another way to make sure.
Check the valve lengths as well, esp if new wheels have been purchased. I was doing a 4 day bikepacking trip and had been hit by a car a few weeks before which needed new wheels to fix my bike. The rims were deeper than my original, and I didn't think anything of it. As I rode up panther alley (yes, real panthers!) I get a puncture. I don't repair on the side of the road, I remove and replace, and repair later. So, I put in my replacement tube, only to find out I dont have enough valve out of the rim for my pump or CO2 to attach too. Road side repair it is! not pleasant when panthers are possibly in the area, or with cars zipping past at 55mph+
"Check the state of your spares. If you're one of the lucky ones who doesn't remember the last time you had a roadside mechanical..." Thanks Ollie, watch something fail on my commute tomorrow...
The key point is prepping for a BIG cycling event. This would call for a complete wash, tuneup, everything appropriately lubed and checked. Add a Co2 cartridge and a patch kit to the saddle bag. Lastly I would download the ride data to my head-unit - then off you go…
I’ll second the importance of checking chainring bolts. Two years ago on a training ride I stood to power up a short hill, and promptly ripped the chainring off the crank because a couple of bolts had fallen out. It was a rookie mistake by someone who has been riding for 30+ years.
I purple loctite all my chainring bolts. No chance of getting stuck because its only like 12Nm of force to break purple loctite, no chance of getting rusted and seizing, no chance of vibrating loose. Ultimate chainring bolt solution.
My chainring was bent at about 90 degrees, but I luckily didn’t crash. I also had the most important maintenance tool with me - my phone. My wife came and rescued me 😀.
I would say clean your bike first, then start doing all your checks. Dirt will hide stuff. And you cannot measure the wear on a chain properly if it is dirty.
#askgcntech IAm searching to upgrade my bike within the budget of about 1500-1600 euros. Within this budget I can buy nicely discounted sparkling new giant contend AR1 with 105 groupset and hydraulic brakes or a used nice condition ultrgra di2 rim brake carbon frame pinarello fp. What would you suggest? Is a top spec “superbike” with rim brakes better than medium tier new disc brake bike? I am going ride the alps round the lake Garda in a couple months. Rim brakes still ok for big descents? Keep up the good job
As with most things, you don’t know until you find out. 😊 But for me, it’s when I start to find too much stuff in the cuts after rides or if I can see too much liner upon inspection. I also have been known to glue them together by deflating the tire, applying proper rubber cement, and letting them sit for awhile before inflating again. The glue job often holds… Some use super glue but I don’t find that works except for very small cuts. Just one more thing: some people forget to closely inspect cuts for glass. You need to really get in there and find out if there’s a shard in there. I’ve found some gnarly shards that were not evident. I use a bright light and a magnifying glass when doing this sort of tire inspection, which is oddly satisfying. Popping out those little shards or small rock fragments with a sharp instrument gives you greater confidence and a sense for what you’re riding on day-in and day-out. Apologize for going full-gas nerd on you for a simple question! 😅
If you have a good puncture layer and casing just ride it until the rubber peels off. If its a squishy roadie tire replace it when you can see casing in a few places. On fixed gear bikes where you skid the tires only really explode if its a fancy roadie tire with soft rubber and not much of a puncture layer. The commuting tires won't blow up like that.
Here's a quandry... does a waxed chain obscure wear - there seems to be less wear on my chain after it's waxed. On tyre pressure, I disagree with picking a tyre pressure for your big ride on website advice, unless you've tried the pressures advised on a real world ride.
Until you reach the end.. In a long granfondo race with rain and steep downhills you can easily go through half a pair of brake pads. Keep the old 50% ones as spares for your training rides along the river.
Guys, there is a audio Problem across most of your videos. A loud high pitch hissing sound commonly present. I understand that most of your audience cant even hear that, but it does not cost even a minute to clean up the audio in those registers.
I'm on carbon fiber tweeters hooked to a nice vintage Panasonic receiver. No hissing here and that would bother me and I for sure would hear it. Maybe take your speaker wire out and put it back in.
@@Niemand_echt_niemand probably a RUclips bug. Could try using Linux Firefox with ffmpeg for video and pipewire for sound. Lot more stable than the Windows equivalents.
🚴♂What's the one thing you always make sure to check before heading out for a big cycling event?💪👇
Take your shoes !
@@johnstrac Hahahaha this sounds like it's from experience 🤣
@@gcntech afraid so, I always had a checklist after that.
Check wheels for play if you have cup and cone bearings, make sure you service them at regular intervals too.
Back in the day, (1960s), beer money, for afterwards.
Check shoe cleat bolts are tight.
Has this come from experience? 👀
Found that out just yesterday 😂
Lost two bolts on the left shoe during a ride and couldn’t twist to clip out. Had to be helped out of the attached shoe and then the shoe had to be wrenched out of the pedal
Good one!
@@gcntech It has happened to me twice that the bolts on one of my SPD cleats have come loose on the road and I almost crashed when I tried to unclick them. Since then, I've always checked that the plates are tight before setting off and I use screw-locking glue on the bolts. And on multi day trips i also take a spare cleat and screws with me.
I always empty my bike bags after a ride and dry/service the tools. This was a lesson learned after neglecting them for a period some years ago finding a rusty mess!
It's amazing how many folks bring their neglected bike to the shop on Friday or Saturday for a 'tune up' before this weekends event. (yes, we'll have that ready by Tuesday)
Hahahah that's a red flag to mechanics 🤣
9:05 To prevent the inevitable rub wear to a new spare tube as it is being carried within a saddlebag, you could put said tube into an old thin sock to abate any abrasion from other items.
5:10 verniers give an inaccurate measure of disc thickness: they only measure the thicker part at the edges of the braking track, where the middle, like a concave rim brake track, can be way past the wear limit. Either use the jaw tip extenders Park Tool make, or get a micrometer, to measure the middle of the disc brake track.
Absolutely. The difference on an Ice-Tech rotor between new (1.77 mm) and worn (1.5 mm) is only 0.27 mm. That’s roughly .011” or about the thickness of 3 sheets of paper, give or take.
Thanks Dr O and crew...
You're welcome! Hope you got some tips from this one? 👀
@@gcntech I usually do … thanks for the tips , content , etc. It all helps me quite a bit.
Nothing to say other than that Aeroad is 😍
👌
Key word early in the video: “checklist” I keep a checklist (many, actually!) in the Notes app for checking my bike. A checklist helps because as you learn lessons (usually the hard way!) you simply add that to the checklist and then you won’t forget them again. Unless you forget to USE the checklist, that is! 😅 Electronics have made this whole process much more complicated and critical. FWIW, which isn’t much, I grew up in the nuclear weapons business where checklists were mandatory so I established good checklist discipline early. I still make mistakes, but usually not twice! 😊
“Unless you forget to USE the checklist..” That’s easy - just put ‘Use me’ at the top of the list!
@@billeterk 😂
Dust your inner tubes with talcum powder then wrap them all in cling film before putting them in your saddle bag. This stops rubbing on other items AND makes them a bit easier to fit if you get a irreparable puncture. Also I find the tighter packed saddle bag and it cinched up to your saddle stops rubbing as otherwise everything is wobbling around.
Are you fixing your puncture on the road side or chucking a tube in and doing the repair at home?
And if you do change or tighten anything, take a leaf out of the F1 playbook and go for a quick "installation lap", to check for creaks or any other issues you'd discover within 30s of starting the event.
Finally don't forget the obligatory M-check before actually starting the event, or any ride for that matter.
M check is super important 🙌
Great to include the importance of a torque wrench, even if it’s just one of those calibrated t-wrenches. In the old days with steel and aluminum, you could just tighten to check. Now with carbon fiber, I first loosen, then tighten to torque spec. You do not want to over-tighten carbon parts. Just my two cents! 😊
👍
Is that blue metal hanger.. Handlebar straightener or does it just hold the Front Fork in place?
I take a digital tyre pressure gauge to the event as most pump gauges are poor, and I put my (TPU) spare tube(s) in a tough plastic bag inside my saddle bag
Protect those tpu tubes in the saddlebag
Everything holding my saddle in place. On my bicycle it has an absurd tendency to work itself loose. Lol
🤣 Are you riding some bumpy routes?
@@gcntech Fairly bumpy. I do mostly casual riding on various streets with some gravel trips and racing. I suspect the saddle hardware of being the cause. It is the original equipment. I plan on upgrading to a better fitting saddle soon anyway. Being very hefty myself probably doesn’t help. Lol
@brianphillips7696
you either not torqueing your bolts to spec in cases of like material (ie steel bolt in steel threads) or you need to use a thread locking compound whenever you have dissimilar materials (ie steel bolt in aluminum threads). You can always use a mild threadlocker just to be sure (ie loctite blue).
If 3-5Nm of pressure can't hold your seat post use assembly compound. The Park Tools brand has the biggest chunks of silicon in it and is the most grippy. It's friction that holds seat posts NOT the seat post collar bolt. If it's the other stuff just purple loctite it.
If none of that works get a fancy Nitto seat post and a fancy saddle and enjoy, that's what I do, lol.
Cheap digital vernier calipers can be found in Aldi or Lidl, or the big DIY stores for a few quid.
They're easy to read and accurate enough for bike maintenance.
You'll be surprised how often they come in handy.
Wheel and rotor true! I check those two constantly, and very carefully before big rides/races. Wheel true checks are important to find loose spokes or other problems. Used to be more important with rim brakes, but still important if you have disc brakes. Also check the true of disc brake rotors. I tweak my rotors constantly to keep them running true and really makes a difference. If necessary I clean the rotors and sometimes the brake pads to avoid the brutal brake scream. I would just add that when truing wheels and rotors, small tweaks pay big dividends. Even if you have a major issue, over-correcting creates its own problems. See great Park Tool (Calvin Jones) videos on truing wheels and brake pads. Calvin always makes great educational videos. Just my two cents! 😊
Thanks for sharing Tom! 🙌 making sure your wheels and discs are true is super important! What method are you using to straighten your disc rotors?
@@gcntech Park Tool DT-2 rotor truing fork. Eyeball rotor using piece of paper on floor (white) and back light to more easily see rotor deflections through the pads. Job 1 is to make sure the rotor isn’t touching the pads anywhere. Job 2 is to true it so braking is smooth. Rotors are very sensitive so tweaking and eyeballing is required. You have to get the eye angle JUST right and keep the bike steady to get it right. Truing it on the bike is better than using a separate truing stand, which I have, but only on the bike can you see that the rotors are properly centered and true. 🧐
Counterargument for #1 - you can't really accurately check a chain that's too soiled. At least give it a soapy wash before checking.
@5:08 You say to measure the disk brake using a vernier calliper . Perhaps not. If the disk wears in a way that leaves them concave. You will only be measuring the outer part of the disk which will be still at the correct thickness. Instead, judge by feeling difference between the thickness of the braking surface and just below.
Loose chainring bolts caused me to mechanical out of 2023 SBT GRVL. small ring was hanging! I wasn’t going to do 65 miles of big hills in the big ring so I rode back to town
That's so annoying! Will you be back next year for more racing? 💨
@@gcntech Yup, I'm doing SBT GRVL (black) again this year as I live in Colorado. Also making a dream trip to your side of the pond for FNLD GRVL! Was able to get my company to pay for the airfare (woohoo!).
IMO, headset, stem and chainring bolts should be purple loctited so they can never vibrate loose. It's much better at stopping rust than either dry or greased, and it's only about 12Nm of force to break purple loctite so there is no chance it could get stuck or even damage fancy Ti bolts when removing.
I always check for headset play every once in a while and have been doing it for a few years the way it's shown here. Recently though I was thinking I had some headset play that just wouldn't go away no matter how much I messed with it and figured out it was actually the disc brake's center lock coming loose and the play I was feeling wasn't from the headset but the disc itself. Only happened once to me with a rim brake caliper coming loose on the fork and didn't know it could happen with a disk brake's center lock. You can also check headset play by grabbing the fork itself and handlebars as another way to make sure.
Check the valve lengths as well, esp if new wheels have been purchased. I was doing a 4 day bikepacking trip and had been hit by a car a few weeks before which needed new wheels to fix my bike. The rims were deeper than my original, and I didn't think anything of it. As I rode up panther alley (yes, real panthers!) I get a puncture. I don't repair on the side of the road, I remove and replace, and repair later. So, I put in my replacement tube, only to find out I dont have enough valve out of the rim for my pump or CO2 to attach too. Road side repair it is! not pleasant when panthers are possibly in the area, or with cars zipping past at 55mph+
Wow what a beautiful bike. Which year is it from? Can you share the model/specs?
amazing bike
"Check the state of your spares. If you're one of the lucky ones who doesn't remember the last time you had a roadside mechanical..." Thanks Ollie, watch something fail on my commute tomorrow...
Hahahah 🤣
Do you have Bot sized hoodies yet? They were on back order in April.
The key point is prepping for a BIG cycling event.
This would call for a complete wash, tuneup, everything appropriately lubed and checked.
Add a Co2 cartridge and a patch kit to the saddle bag.
Lastly I would download the ride data to my head-unit - then off you go…
A proper bathroom break before a ride is the best weight saver! 😅
Wrap each saddle bag item in cling film, it’s ultralight, almost free, prevents vibration and moisture 🤓
Hello all from Santorini from Peterborough 🚲
I like gcn new water bottle.is it insulated water bottle?
Use a checklist!
I’ll second the importance of checking chainring bolts. Two years ago on a training ride I stood to power up a short hill, and promptly ripped the chainring off the crank because a couple of bolts had fallen out. It was a rookie mistake by someone who has been riding for 30+ years.
I purple loctite all my chainring bolts. No chance of getting stuck because its only like 12Nm of force to break purple loctite, no chance of getting rusted and seizing, no chance of vibrating loose. Ultimate chainring bolt solution.
Ouch! Was everything okay?
My chainring was bent at about 90 degrees, but I luckily didn’t crash. I also had the most important maintenance tool with me - my phone. My wife came and rescued me 😀.
I would say clean your bike first, then start doing all your checks. Dirt will hide stuff.
And you cannot measure the wear on a chain properly if it is dirty.
It doesn't take long ... just 5 mins 👉ruclips.net/video/pv9KMTaEgS8/видео.html
#askgcntech How does a worn down chain damage a cassette?
#askgcntech IAm searching to upgrade my bike within the budget of about 1500-1600 euros. Within this budget I can buy nicely discounted sparkling new giant contend AR1 with 105 groupset and hydraulic brakes or a used nice condition ultrgra di2 rim brake carbon frame pinarello fp. What would you suggest? Is a top spec “superbike” with rim brakes better than medium tier new disc brake bike? I am going ride the alps round the lake Garda in a couple months. Rim brakes still ok for big descents?
Keep up the good job
No Hearing Aid - Batteries to check because of mechanical shifting… Thank God!
What’s the brand name of that bikemlol
Ya know, I never knew Ollie was pentatonics. Lol jk. Much love for Ollie and the whole GCN cast and crew.
I need help my bike brakes are stuck in a position and the front wheel is making noises and i cant ride it
Sram on its official pages say 0,8% for both 12sp eagle and 12road flattop
Should mention that new disk brake pads need to be bedded in, since you're trying to help people for whom not all things are obvious.
With regards to tire cuts, how big is too big?
As with most things, you don’t know until you find out. 😊 But for me, it’s when I start to find too much stuff in the cuts after rides or if I can see too much liner upon inspection. I also have been known to glue them together by deflating the tire, applying proper rubber cement, and letting them sit for awhile before inflating again. The glue job often holds… Some use super glue but I don’t find that works except for very small cuts. Just one more thing: some people forget to closely inspect cuts for glass. You need to really get in there and find out if there’s a shard in there. I’ve found some gnarly shards that were not evident. I use a bright light and a magnifying glass when doing this sort of tire inspection, which is oddly satisfying. Popping out those little shards or small rock fragments with a sharp instrument gives you greater confidence and a sense for what you’re riding on day-in and day-out. Apologize for going full-gas nerd on you for a simple question! 😅
If you have a good puncture layer and casing just ride it until the rubber peels off. If its a squishy roadie tire replace it when you can see casing in a few places. On fixed gear bikes where you skid the tires only really explode if its a fancy roadie tire with soft rubber and not much of a puncture layer. The commuting tires won't blow up like that.
Here's a quandry... does a waxed chain obscure wear - there seems to be less wear on my chain after it's waxed. On tyre pressure, I disagree with picking a tyre pressure for your big ride on website advice, unless you've tried the pressures advised on a real world ride.
One of the biggest advantages of wazed chains is that they build up less wear than a standard lubed chain
@@gcntech But does the wax give you a false reading?
Rechargable coin cells and a charger will save you a lot of money and waste.
The rechargeable batteries have a higher voltage (3.7V) compared to conventional batteries (3.0V). Not sure if that’s a problem
Make sure you don’t forget your bike before you head out…. Worse thing is to realize you packed everything in the car, but forgot your ride
Why Ollie running shallow wheels? Looks awkward on that Aeroad.
Less frame/more seatpost is more aero. Ollies bike is the other way round,i'm surprised.
More frame/less seatpost is more comfortable for your upper body.
Electronic gears = a solution looking for a problem.
I ride my bike almost daily. Chances are slim that it breaks just before the race. So I never check 😇
Check you packed your bike!
If they're 50% worn there's still 50% to go, ad zenfinitum 👍
Until you reach the end.. In a long granfondo race with rain and steep downhills you can easily go through half a pair of brake pads. Keep the old 50% ones as spares for your training rides along the river.
Guys, there is a audio Problem across most of your videos. A loud high pitch hissing sound commonly present. I understand that most of your audience cant even hear that, but it does not cost even a minute to clean up the audio in those registers.
Usually I'm very sensitive for that and have studio monitors paired with a good DAC. Can't hear anything.
I'm on carbon fiber tweeters hooked to a nice vintage Panasonic receiver. No hissing here and that would bother me and I for sure would hear it. Maybe take your speaker wire out and put it back in.
Sandly only happens when viewing content from this chanell. Also on a DAC, AMP and DT990Pros.
@@Niemand_echt_niemand weird.. maybe some youtube or browser issue? I'm on mac os with latest chrome.
@@Niemand_echt_niemand probably a RUclips bug. Could try using Linux Firefox with ffmpeg for video and pipewire for sound. Lot more stable than the Windows equivalents.
Someone always forgets to bring their shoes or helmet.
If your bike isn't ready, stay in bed.
Hey, who are you calling a wear-hole??