I even picked this bike up but only noticed a mangled bolt on the crankbox AFTER I removed the puller bolt. I saw a set of SRAM Red levers but the FB add looked a bit dodgy, so I asked the guy how the front derailleur worked and he just say push a button but the 11 sp F.D. shifts by clicking both buttons, simultaneously, so I reported the guy.
I bought a bike that I thought was a bargain once and checked over it but didn’t spot it had a split in the frame under the bottom bracket. So I recommend looking underneath the bike too!
I do. Picked up a barely used mint condition one. Came with C-Bear BB. The tyre tread & saddle color were the indicators that the bike was barely used. Even the bartape. All contact points
Fair play GCN, a few points I had not considered, especially when I'm interested in purchasing a early 1980s classic road bike. My question is, would you guys be able to do a video on best trackers and anti theft devices including the DNA tag for bikes? Pros and cons, including what your team would recommend? Thanks in advance. Tony
Crafty sellers often remove the pedals and this scuppers a potential test ride. I now always bring a set of pedals as well as pedal spanner and multi tool.
2019 Scultura 400 rim (105 mech) used for one half ironman triathlon then put down on the drive side, then stuck in a shed afterwards because the shifting was off. I found it on marketplace last year for around 90 pounds. Cleaned off the cobwebs, realigned and re-indexed everything, just like brand new. Pair of 28mm P-Zeros and TPU tubes cost more than the bike.
I just purchased a used Specialized Diverge E5 Elite and it turned out to be STOLEN! Out almost $700 and still need to get a gravel bike. I would highly suggest looking up the bikes serial number before purchasing used so you don't get into this bad situation I got myself into. I've contacted the original owner and will be giving them the bike back and they decided to give me a small reward for returning, but it appears there are people flipping stolen bikes on local marketplaces. I was ill with a flu when I found it and didn't catch all the clues that were there unfortunately.
Remember, private sale isn't the only way to get a good used bike. Many local bike shops sell bikes that have been checked over. I got mine from Pro's Closet here in America and I felt confident I was getting a quality product. Sure it cost more than a dude in the car park, but they checked records, did a full service, and had a warrenty
Very true. Especially if you trust the bike shop then you know the bike has had a good service and all the appropriate checks. Often it’s worth paying extra knowing the bike is ready to cycle hundreds of miles with no issues
Very good point about rims and rim brakes. I have worn out rims to the point of complete collapse so I do check them for myself and friends. On wheel wobble - I can't find my Minoura wheel jig anywhere. Must have lent it to someone and forgotten about it. I wanted to fix a friend's wobbly wheel a few months ago
Hi GCN, Great video! 👍 the only thing I would add in regards to a loose headset is if the bike has been ridden over hundreds of miles with a loose headset it can cause the ring of death. This can result in the bars snapping off when riding which is obviously very dangerous. If buying a used bike, the fork should be dropped out and inspected for safety. (Especially if ridden with a loose headset) Not alot of people know this but plenty of videos on RUclips about it. Dan
I bought a bike that seemed like a bargain second hand. I absolutely loved it, but 6 months later I had to throw away the frame because it had a massive crack, which was not repairable because it was aluminium. At this point I just won't buy a second hand aluminium bike because you have no idea how long it's going to last; I'd much prefer a vintage steel bike from the 80s or 90s.
Agreed. I’ve owned a few alloy frame bikes over the years, and wouldn’t want to buy one used. One of them at nearly a decade old developed a crack where the head tube meets the seat tube, and Giant replaced the frame under warranty with a newer one. I wouldn’t want to take that chance on a secondhand bike unless it’s a real bargain.
When I look at used bikes the first thing I look at is the bottom bracket. Then the wheel rims where the spokes penetrate for cracking and also the axles for any play in the bearings. Brake pads and whatnot minor crap isn't nearly as important as the majors. Looking closely at the headset is also a major. Anyway good / great vid! 👍
Fair play GCN, a few points I had not considered, especially when I'm interested in purchasing a early 1980s classic road bike. My question is, would you guys be able to do a video on best trackers and anti theft devices including the DNA tag for bikes? Pros and cons, including what your team would recommend? Thanks in advance. Tony
I bought a Dogma F10 through Buycycle. 1Their bike check was excellent.2) Beyond the Buycycle listing photos, using the seller contact feature yielded additional photos of the legitimate serial number and receipt.
Just a quick heads up that you are only about 3000 likes away from sending Dan up the Scanuppia (you mentioned it a while ago when you sent Andrew Feather up there).
Use the manufacturer sizing guide first, then take the money that would have been used for bike fit and buy a new saddle, maybe even new post. It was cheaper for me. The distance from seat to pedal use Lemond method that Manon mentioned in one of her older videos.
There is a pocket you perfectly fit in when your bike fits properly and you become one. You'll know it when you get there. That's when i stoped and measured all my adjustments and this will allow me to choose my next bike size when this one is worn out.
I've just bought a 'Peugeot race bike' off eBay. I studied the photos and identified the frame. £120. Got the bike home and stripped it down to frame, forks without any fittings. The frame is Reynolds 753. The group was Shim 600. Frame and forks off to the Powder coaters, sparkly white. Sent for ANC-Halfords decals. In the store room , there is a Campag groupset, Athena square taper with Ergo-shift levers. That'll do nicely. Pair of Campag Khamsin hoops. 8 speed. Not a bad bike for £120 and a load of old stuff doing nothing. Powder coating £75. Decals £25. All up < £300.
Also a good sign when buying a bike is to have passport from it and/or repeceipt. In Russia I've seen cases where police stopped cyclist because the model of the bike they're looking for got stolen - by matching serial number from frame and passport you'll be able to proof ownership.
I’ve bought both my bikes second hand and they were absolute bargains. My first (now 10 years old) is a bit of a triggers broom. My advice would be to decide which make and model(s) you want and focus on that only in the right size. Then take your time and wait for ‘the one’. Be prepared to service and change tyres etc and don’t buy a thrashed nail. I’d never buy new!
"Virtually unused bike in like new condition" has pictures showing corrosion on aluminum parts from use in winter, well worn small chainring (big is OK as chum had no power to mash it) and filthy chain. Then there are pictures of 105 rear derailleur like it's most important part in bike and brand new Lugano tires to prove seller's statement about condition.
Plenty of high end stolen bikes on fb marketplace .these thieves are brazen to list them on buycycle ..and buycycle is touted as a sponsor for the move ..hmm wondering if a tour de france trophy is on buycycle ?..
On the cheaper side of things avoid square taper alltogether. big chance it will be hopelessly ceased. unless it's for pennies i guess. also price should not be higher then 50-60% of same bike as new.
These times most of the used bikes are much to expensive. I tell my customers always to put 20% for changing parts / maintaining on top of the used price and think about if it’s still a good deal.
It’s basically buying insurance. You can gamble on saving money without the fit or spend the time and effort to research and understand bikes. There’s a hidden cost. I bought and sold 3 bikes before getting one that fit well. In the end I still eventually got the bike fit to really dial it in.
The get a bikefit part lets this video down , because this should be a vid about getting into cycling cheaply but throwing in splash cash on bikefit undoes it all.
test ride it yee sure ,, so you will trust a stranger too test ride your bike , what if hi damage it , or just ride off with it , so you expect a stranger to let you test ride his bike ,
Shhhhhh, don't tell everybody. Someone needs to keep buying new bikes so i can get a deal later when the new bike smell wears off and they sell said bike to me for a meer fraction of it's former very resent price... So yeah don't listen to him keep buying new. Yes NEW is where it's at hahaha mate. Oh yeah and keepemcoming
No no no, advising a bikefit is disgusting in this video because you're trying to save people money here (not spend more on snake oil) also you've more chance ending up with a wrong size when buying new (many a bike shop have just sold the customer the size they happen to have in store)
As an owner of a shop that mainly refurbishes quality used bikes, this video makes me even more confident in my work. Every single thing you mention is spot on. If I may add something. Please turn the bike over, if possible, and look for cracks around the bottom bracket area. Sometimes hard to see if the bike is not somewhat clean. I always carry a bottle of Windex and a micro fiber towel with me when purchasing. Thank you again for such an important video. Keep up the good work. Wish I was closer to you. I would be applying for a job!
You can get 90% of the value of the bike fit for free online. So saying "don't get a bikefit" is a bit misleading, you can bikefit yourself at no cost.
If you're gonna get a steel frame and go for more of a classic randonneur, large frame bars and stems level kind of fit, then yeah it's probably a waste of money getting a bike fit. A modern roadie bike with the tiny frame and crazy saddle to bar drop it might not be a bad idea. Just to know how to set up the cleats right on roadie shoes takes a lot of knowledge, and if you mess up sizing on that kind of carbon race bike it's gonna be way less forgiving of your mistake.
Do you have any fantastic or nightmarish stories about buying a second-hand bike? What was your experience like? Let us know in the comments
I even picked this bike up but only noticed a mangled bolt on the crankbox AFTER I removed the puller bolt.
I saw a set of SRAM Red levers but the FB add looked a bit dodgy, so I asked the guy how the front derailleur worked and he just say push a button but the 11 sp F.D. shifts by clicking both buttons, simultaneously, so I reported the guy.
I bought a bike that I thought was a bargain once and checked over it but didn’t spot it had a split in the frame under the bottom bracket. So I recommend looking underneath the bike too!
I do. Picked up a barely used mint condition one. Came with C-Bear BB. The tyre tread & saddle color were the indicators that the bike was barely used. Even the bartape. All contact points
Fair play GCN, a few points I had not considered, especially when I'm interested in purchasing a early 1980s classic road bike.
My question is, would you guys be able to do a video on best trackers and anti theft devices including the DNA tag for bikes? Pros and cons, including what your team would recommend?
Thanks in advance.
Tony
Disgusting non sequitur!
Crafty sellers often remove the pedals and this scuppers a potential test ride. I now always bring a set of pedals as well as pedal spanner and multi tool.
a wise tip!
2019 Scultura 400 rim (105 mech) used for one half ironman triathlon then put down on the drive side, then stuck in a shed afterwards because the shifting was off. I found it on marketplace last year for around 90 pounds. Cleaned off the cobwebs, realigned and re-indexed everything, just like brand new. Pair of 28mm P-Zeros and TPU tubes cost more than the bike.
Nice deal!
I just purchased a used Specialized Diverge E5 Elite and it turned out to be STOLEN! Out almost $700 and still need to get a gravel bike. I would highly suggest looking up the bikes serial number before purchasing used so you don't get into this bad situation I got myself into. I've contacted the original owner and will be giving them the bike back and they decided to give me a small reward for returning, but it appears there are people flipping stolen bikes on local marketplaces. I was ill with a flu when I found it and didn't catch all the clues that were there unfortunately.
Remember, private sale isn't the only way to get a good used bike. Many local bike shops sell bikes that have been checked over. I got mine from Pro's Closet here in America and I felt confident I was getting a quality product. Sure it cost more than a dude in the car park, but they checked records, did a full service, and had a warrenty
I ended up doing the same with my LBS. I paid a few hundred more than a similar bike on FB, but it came ready to ride and a two-year maintenance plan.
Very true. Especially if you trust the bike shop then you know the bike has had a good service and all the appropriate checks. Often it’s worth paying extra knowing the bike is ready to cycle hundreds of miles with no issues
Very good point about rims and rim brakes. I have worn out rims to the point of complete collapse so I do check them for myself and friends.
On wheel wobble - I can't find my Minoura wheel jig anywhere. Must have lent it to someone and forgotten about it. I wanted to fix a friend's wobbly wheel a few months ago
3:09 nice to see you still have that excellent 2nd hand Pinarello. We should see it out more often 🙂
hidden away for special days!
Everything said here should just be a refresher for folks buying used. If it's all-new info to someone, they should not buy used.
Some great tips! Thanks for the video.
Hi GCN,
Great video! 👍 the only thing I would add in regards to a loose headset is if the bike has been ridden over hundreds of miles with a loose headset it can cause the ring of death. This can result in the bars snapping off when riding which is obviously very dangerous. If buying a used bike, the fork should be dropped out and inspected for safety. (Especially if ridden with a loose headset) Not alot of people know this but plenty of videos on RUclips about it.
Dan
They let slip that GCN megabase is located at 221B Baker Street
I bought a bike that seemed like a bargain second hand. I absolutely loved it, but 6 months later I had to throw away the frame because it had a massive crack, which was not repairable because it was aluminium. At this point I just won't buy a second hand aluminium bike because you have no idea how long it's going to last; I'd much prefer a vintage steel bike from the 80s or 90s.
Same here 👍
Agreed. I’ve owned a few alloy frame bikes over the years, and wouldn’t want to buy one used. One of them at nearly a decade old developed a crack where the head tube meets the seat tube, and Giant replaced the frame under warranty with a newer one.
I wouldn’t want to take that chance on a secondhand bike unless it’s a real bargain.
When I look at used bikes the first thing I look at is the bottom bracket. Then the wheel rims where the spokes penetrate for cracking and also the axles for any play in the bearings. Brake pads and whatnot minor crap isn't nearly as important as the majors. Looking closely at the headset is also a major.
Anyway good / great vid! 👍
Fair play GCN, a few points I had not considered, especially when I'm interested in purchasing a early 1980s classic road bike.
My question is, would you guys be able to do a video on best trackers and anti theft devices including the DNA tag for bikes? Pros and cons, including what your team would recommend?
Thanks in advance.
Tony
Used bikes are great. I have never bought a new bike.
I bought a Dogma F10 through Buycycle. 1Their bike check was excellent.2) Beyond the Buycycle listing photos, using the seller contact feature yielded additional photos of the legitimate serial number and receipt.
Just a quick heads up that you are only about 3000 likes away from sending Dan up the Scanuppia (you mentioned it a while ago when you sent Andrew Feather up there).
This is a handy video. I cant afford a new race bike, only chance i have is to buy 2nd hand but too afraid to incase i get a dud
Use the manufacturer sizing guide first, then take the money that would have been used for bike fit and buy a new saddle, maybe even new post. It was cheaper for me. The distance from seat to pedal use Lemond method that Manon mentioned in one of her older videos.
There is a pocket you perfectly fit in when your bike fits properly and you become one. You'll know it when you get there. That's when i stoped and measured all my adjustments and this will allow me to choose my next bike size when this one is worn out.
I've just bought a 'Peugeot race bike' off eBay. I studied the photos and identified the frame. £120.
Got the bike home and stripped it down to frame, forks without any fittings. The frame is Reynolds 753. The group was Shim 600.
Frame and forks off to the Powder coaters, sparkly white. Sent for ANC-Halfords decals.
In the store room , there is a Campag groupset, Athena square taper with Ergo-shift levers. That'll do nicely. Pair of Campag Khamsin hoops. 8 speed.
Not a bad bike for £120 and a load of old stuff doing nothing. Powder coating £75. Decals £25. All up < £300.
5:08 Thankfully, as the owner of a 45kg aero bike, I never have to worry about bar strikes since my frame has steering limiters! 😂
Also a good sign when buying a bike is to have passport from it and/or repeceipt. In Russia I've seen cases where police stopped cyclist because the model of the bike they're looking for got stolen - by matching serial number from frame and passport you'll be able to proof ownership.
I’ve bought both my bikes second hand and they were absolute bargains. My first (now 10 years old) is a bit of a triggers broom.
My advice would be to decide which make and model(s) you want and focus on that only in the right size. Then take your time and wait for ‘the one’.
Be prepared to service and change tyres etc and don’t buy a thrashed nail.
I’d never buy new!
"Virtually unused bike in like new condition" has pictures showing corrosion on aluminum parts from use in winter, well worn small chainring (big is OK as chum had no power to mash it) and filthy chain. Then there are pictures of 105 rear derailleur like it's most important part in bike and brand new Lugano tires to prove seller's statement about condition.
Anyone else see the thumbnail for this video and laugh their bottom off?
Ollie looking just like Sir Digby Chicken Caesar!
I love it when Sherlock Bridgewood makes an appearance
Plenty of high end stolen bikes on fb marketplace .these thieves are brazen to list them on buycycle ..and buycycle is touted as a sponsor for the move ..hmm wondering if a tour de france trophy is on buycycle ?..
On the cheaper side of things avoid square taper alltogether. big chance it will be hopelessly ceased. unless it's for pennies i guess.
also price should not be higher then 50-60% of same bike as new.
bike fits are about $500 in nyc lol
Most important. Wheels are true. Frame has no cracks, bends, etc. Frame size is right size.
4:40 → a hardly used bike in mint condition, even the tyre tread is still new, with ceramic BB 👌
These times most of the used bikes are much to expensive. I tell my customers always to put 20% for changing parts / maintaining on top of the used price and think about if it’s still a good deal.
The most important thing: common sense, USE IT!
Getting a bikefit isn't a sure thing on getting the right size. The 200£ is better used on a bike with better wheels.
Who in their right mind would deliberately lock the front wheel?!
Heres a video on how to buy s budget bike. Here go spend 100 pound on a fit 😂😂😂😂
With bike prices these days, 100 pound is pocket change.
It’s basically buying insurance.
You can gamble on saving money without the fit or spend the time and effort to research and understand bikes.
There’s a hidden cost.
I bought and sold 3 bikes before getting one that fit well. In the end I still eventually got the bike fit to really dial it in.
Klunkers are great bikes
😋
The get a bikefit part lets this video down , because this should be a vid about getting into cycling cheaply but throwing in splash cash on bikefit undoes it all.
9:50 Pardon?! 😅
Nice hair Ollie
Suggesting a bike fit is so shady go to a bike shop test ride the bikes your interested in but it's pretty easy to tell if it fits or not
The only mistake people make is not having one.😊
test ride it yee sure ,, so you will trust a stranger too test ride your bike , what if hi damage it , or just ride off with it , so you expect a stranger to let you test ride his bike ,
there worst part of used bike sales is being the seller. low ballers, no shows and jerks. and pennies on the dollar....
Bike fit from £100? Really?? £280 at my local place. I don’t even live in London either
I've never seen a bike fit for 200 £. 500£ starting prices. Am i the only one in this?
Condor Cycles £199
As Russian bot myself I am a bit insulted at 2:15
I would never trust a used carbon fork without having it internally inspected.
the first rule is dont get scam
As far as bike fit, I just make sure it clears my crotch, and do the zombie lean over test.
Save your money , buy a demo bike from a good custom shop. There you go.
Amy cycling adventures always lets her handlebars swing around and clatter on her toptube, don't buy a bike from her.
😂 oof!
Mr didn't understand the video over here
Shhhhhh, don't tell everybody. Someone needs to keep buying new bikes so i can get a deal later when the new bike smell wears off and they sell said bike to me for a meer fraction of it's former very resent price...
So yeah don't listen to him keep buying new. Yes NEW is where it's at hahaha mate.
Oh yeah and keepemcoming
Негативный акцент на русских очень плох
No no no, advising a bikefit is disgusting in this video because you're trying to save people money here (not spend more on snake oil) also you've more chance ending up with a wrong size when buying new (many a bike shop have just sold the customer the size they happen to have in store)
thanks for the comment! A bike fit will also help you once you have the bike too?! 👍
Chill dude. He did say if your budget allows, and gave other options if you didn't have the budget for a bikefit.
As an owner of a shop that mainly refurbishes quality used bikes, this video makes me even more confident in my work. Every single thing you mention is spot on. If I may add something. Please turn the bike over, if possible, and look for cracks around the bottom bracket area. Sometimes hard to see if the bike is not somewhat clean. I always carry a bottle of Windex and a micro fiber towel with me when purchasing.
Thank you again for such an important video. Keep up the good work. Wish I was closer to you. I would be applying for a job!
You can get 90% of the value of the bike fit for free online. So saying "don't get a bikefit" is a bit misleading, you can bikefit yourself at no cost.
If you're gonna get a steel frame and go for more of a classic randonneur, large frame bars and stems level kind of fit, then yeah it's probably a waste of money getting a bike fit. A modern roadie bike with the tiny frame and crazy saddle to bar drop it might not be a bad idea. Just to know how to set up the cleats right on roadie shoes takes a lot of knowledge, and if you mess up sizing on that kind of carbon race bike it's gonna be way less forgiving of your mistake.