It's like those wide tyres that are supposed to be faster. Suddenly everyone has to buy new tyres! If you read the fine print they are... slower, unless inflated at the same pressure! Not sure what would happen to 35-45mm at 100 psi!?
How the heck are mechanics supposed to keep up with all these changes? If the mechanics are expected to go on a training course every time a new component is introduced, how are the general public going to be served with reliable, affordable equipment?
I have no idea what specific BB standard my bike uses, but it has a 20+ year old Ti road frame with a threaded BB into which I installed a square taper sealed cartridge Campy BB that cost under $20 in 2003 and has been absolutely perfect and is still smooth as can be. I mostly ride on paved roads but occasionally ride over dirt, grass, gravel and roads that are in horrible condition. Works for me.
Square taper cartridge BB's are far more durable for the money than any of the current options. They're also a lot heavier and the axles snap when they're ridden hard off road, or on trials bikes, and holy crap do they let go with a bang and give no warning at all that there's a fatigue crack working its way through the axle until they let go. All the hollow axle setups where the axle is part of the crank mean the cranks need to be thrown out eventually unless its ridden in clean dry conditions as grit works its way between the axle and the BB bearing, eventually wearing the diameter of the BB axle out of tolerance, so there's still visible play even when installed with a brand new BB. It takes about 10 years and maybe 10 000+ miles of riding in wet muddy conditions to do it though, at which point fatigue cracking in the cranks themselves and pedal thread failure aren't far off either, so still not bad value for money on the XT crankset I killed that way.
@@peglor I don't know, but snapping square taper BB's seems like it is a rarity rather than the rule, even if riding off-road. They are cheap, reliable and plentiful. They just work, and yet, we have created so many standard, some of which literally are no longer supported making the frames obsolete if the current BB fails. I lucked out, as my cross bike has a Press Fit 30 that is the standard design. Others had very specific press fit systems that are no longer manufactured, not even by Wheels Manufacturing,
4 years on my SKF square taper bottom bracket and counting. Most of my square taper bb's have lasted way longer than bb cups. Best looking cranks as well.
@@escgoogle3865 The SKF bb is on my commuter, ridden 5 days a week in all weather for 4 years. No downtime, no adjustments required, just clean and ride, like it should be. It comes with a 10 year warranty as well, the audacity, lol.
@@peterwillson1355definitely not 120k miles…. But a loose ball bearing bb will go for many many years of daily riding so long as you keep up with maintenance, but could say that about everything lol
The press fit bbs where the two halves of the bb thread into each other and don't require a press are great. I installed them easily myself and been running them for years with no issues.
As a mechanic, good video! And your Fazit fits😁‼️ Pressfit isn't as bad, like a lot of people think. The first year of Pressfit, in my workshop, I hated this " plastic toy story" stuff! Since 2017 I use Shimano press fit, on my actual aluminum DH Frame, and I never had Saint cranks, running that smooth and easy. But for almost 80 to 90 % of all bike frames, BSA is the best and most proper way, solution. Clean Thread, tightening brackets, Crankshaft and cranks mounting. Ready to go. The only, a bit negative thing about Hollow tech II Shimano bearings, they have a bit less long life durability qualities.....
And the forgettable BCA = Bicycle Corporation of America. BCA made various low end bikes in the 80s/90s, but some had acceptable spec like full True Temper frames.
BB30 in a sl6 SW Tarmac here, no alignment problems. I’ve got a Hambini race bottombracket NTN bearings for 24 mm Shimano. 0 creaks, stiff and butter smooth.
YOU HAVE EXCELLED in this video, everything I could have said on this subject you've said for me. Except for one thing, you said it in a kind manner, I personally would have disgraced many frame manufacturers, who for years have taken us the bike shops, and punters literally for a ride. WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND sooner or later. Practicallity and functionallity will always beat high end pointless designs which aim to make manufacturers rich! Seriously, do bike brands really believe there are people out there that have no engineering or mechanical background, and do they think we are all so stupid? Two simple bearings in a round hole, how the F can anyone get it wrong? Yet all these great Engineering University grads have done so for years, how? by simply saving money and spending less on quality! LONG LIVE THE BSA THREADED BB! Cheers rant over. Mapdec......Nice one mate!!!😉
As a cytec qualified former shop mechanic who wrenched through the naughties I can confirm - if it’s metal King every time. Even a used king bb is better than the competition, also serviceable and backed by a lifetime warranty. I only have one stupid bb standard in my Parlee Z5 (OG bb30 bearings and c clips) but I fitted it properly and it’s never given me a problem, don’t ride it in the rain and don’t let it get too cold or too hot…
Was about to purchase BBinfinite Threaded BB but bought a CK threaded instead as it was on sale (still cost more). Then I came across this video. Worth it. Thanks for the detailed explanation!
Worked in shops all through all the bottom bracket standard evolution. Personally, I never had ANY issues with any of the 5 BB30 bikes I owned (still have one!) but of course saw plenty of issues on poorly set up customer bikes. I agree that 386evo isn’t a bad design if a bracket goes in that uses replaceable bearings but I have to say I’m all in on T47. I have two bikes with t47 and they just work so well with the bigger spindle sizes and easy servicing. Also, if you have a T47 68mm shell designed for outboard bearings, you can use the inboard instead and use your old BB30 crank with a narrow dbca. Takes some doing but you can make it work. As for T47 quality, the Wheels Mfg bis nice (you can swap in higher quality bearings) and I just installed a SRAM ceramic T47 on my melee and was quite impressed with the quality. Also uses replaceable bearings (6806).
I started with the sealed cartridge square taper bottom brackets back in the early 90's. After the introduction of the press fits, I got a little lost on all the new sizing and standards. I've never owned or ridden any of these new bottom bracket standards. This is very helpful. Great explanations. Thank you.
Ten years of perfect service from the Praxis BB30 to Shimano 24mm adaptor. Using this setup in a 2013-14 Felt Z4 carbon bike I bought new. The original BB30 bearings lasted 100 miles before creaking. I now have over 13,000 miles on the Felt with the Praxis conversion kit. Quality kit!
A brilliant video, as a home DIY mechanic I have spent many hours researching up the different BB standards over the years. This is a great summary thank you. I have Shimano BB89 ultegra version on my Canyon and surprisingly I got about 16,000km on it before the bearings went on the NDS cup. I've just replaced it with exactly the same BB. Very happy with that level of longevity and the cost is very good.
@@peterwillson1355 My Canyon Ultimate is still on the original BB86 BB with just under 30,000km on it. I regularly take the cranks off and check , clean and regrease everything and am amazed it still is as smooth as the day it came. My nephew is running a DUB on his Ultimate and they don't even last a year before needing changed.
This is one of the most confusing topics regarding bikes for me as I tend to try different bike manufactors on a regular basis and struggle with the bb / crank issues. I found this informative, succinct with some visuals ( itend to be a visual learner) Great job, thanks.
Shimano MT800 for me every time. It's not as premium as a Chris King but it is cheap, reliable and smooth. And I can keep a few in the drawer and still come well out on top.
I’ve been a dedicated BBINFINATE user for several years now. I have used both press fit and threaded on my bikes. As far as durability and wear I’ve had no problems. I do tend to care for my bikes well above the normal maintenance requirements and standards. I replace bearing seals, clean and lube the BB bearings twice a year. Similar to UK weather I live in the Pacific Northwest and deal with rain, mud, slop, grit and road crud quite a bit so it’s essential to keep up on the preventive maintenance.
@@Mapdec Yeah, I think there were a few competing standards for BMX freestyle when I started 15 years ago, but Mid BB (press fit into steel frame) has been the only one for a while, and can be installed with a rubber mallet and 2X4, lol! Cheers!
Thanks for this. Coming back to cycling after a 2+ decade interval, I'm in a state of bemusement over the supposed 'development' of so many bike components that have changed. For my current build, I'm now even more convinced of the superiority of BSA-threaded, square-taper, traditional bottom brackets !
I've had the tools for years TBH that's one reason I'm sticking with the old tech, and I don't recall ever having major difficulties with it. Unlike the cheese lockrings etc on later sealed units I've touched. @@Mapdec
I use square taper, BSA thread bottom brackets. There is no getting around the fact that you can round them, you can get the crank part seized on etc. however, they are 15 bucks for a whole one, easy to take out, easy to lube, and you can just buy bearings if you want, don't need to replace the whole thing. But then again I don't get dressed up in lycra and cycle in the middle of the road, I just spend my life using it as a get around.
not sure what bike your looking at but if your building up and want a killer square taper check out the white industries sq bottom bracket and matching cranks. just my 2 cents.
A very good take, but I think you really missed an engineering novelty that is elegant and long weathering. Campagnolo brilliantly moved the cartridge bearing away from the shell and onto the crank spindle. It's brilliant because you only need to press in cups into a shell. The cups accommodate the same sized bearing, no matter the standard. Campag has standardized the bearing size and just left the cup size a thing to be determined. It's a brilliant way to guarantee a certain standard of bearing durability. What size spindle do they use? Who knows and who cares, the stock bearings last forever. If you're lucky enough to have a set that runs out of life, it is a pfaff to replace, but then you are good for another eternity. Campag doesn't get the credit they deserve for this. Imagine my 3T exploro RaceMax running Ekar. 386Evo AND Campag's ProTech BB. I don't know that I will ever need to change out that BB, it's that good.
Campy doesn't get enough credit period. Excluding EPS, they've had some really great products since back in the friction days when they were more mainstream.
I've changed BBs many, many times over the years, but never because mine was worn. Rather, I've changed due to new frames and/or new cranksets that required a different standard. Fortunately, all of mine have been threaded, so no issues with improper press-fit installation.
Both Italian and English square taper BBs here (Oh the shame...). The Italian threaded one in my C olnago Super Piu has been in since 2005, with a brief removal in 2012 when the bike was refurbed. Never needed to be retightened (though admittedly the one on my Ti Colnago CT2 did once unscrew on a ride...). It replaced an Italian thread BB that had been in since 1994, but upgrading to REcord needed a new BB due the low profile chainset. I do agree, the English thread BBs are all rock solid. ANd they're all Square Taper, and they all work perfectly.
Thank you for explaining this issue in a clear and concise manner. The bicycle industry needs to stick to one standard that works and to stop p#ssing around.
Totally agree that press fit done properly is absolutely fine. My Bianchi has a BB86 press fit. I use the standard Ultegra SM-BB72-41B and it runs super smooth with no creaking. I do use a thin smear of grease when installing. Take home message if you’re frame is in spec you don’t require an expensive aftermarket 1 piece bottom bracket, the Shimano parts perform perfectly.
@@Mapdec To aid removal down the line. I use a very thin smear of grease that is carbon compatible. I’m on my third BB now and there is no evidence that the grease has made even the slightest impact on the frame or the BB cups. When I removed the original BB no grease had been used at the factory it had been installed dry and it was very hard to remove.
I'm curious how long do they last (since you're already at number 3!), kilometers/years, and why exactly did you replace them, ie how did they fail? I'm asking because I have a sImilar BB-RS500-PB, but I don't see how I could remove it myself, in fact I already had several bikes that I chose replace because the axis was too lose (and other maintenance was needed at this point of course, else I would have asked a shop to do it), but my guess was that replacing the ball bearings would have been enough...
@@DR_1_1 1-2 years which is about 10,000km for me. I just replace them after that time as preventive maintenance, they don’t typically fail. Over time they become more draggy and don’t spin as freely. I’ve never had one seize but my mate did and he spun a bearing causing some minor frame damage.
I have had a threaded insert debond from a carbon frame. It was really glued poorly. And a very rough surface prep of the aluminium. I actually never had problem with ITA threads, the campagnolo square tapers are smooth!. Currently running almost all BB standards on my 8 different bikes. ITA, BSA, PF30....
I recently upgraded my 19mm spindle FSA to a 30mm crankset by FSA and the mental gymnastics I had to do to come up with the right BSA BB and spacers for my 68mm wide Aluminum frame was exhausting! Finally got it working and it's so smooth! Wish I had the money to get some chris kings, but FSA will do for now.
I love my BB30, it’s been perfect. My frame is a Felt Z5, with a molded in metal collar for the BB. Bearings fit perfectly. I’ve used PraxisWorks BBs to convert to 30mm and GXP. I’m currently running standard BB30 with SRAM carbon crank. Super light and zero issues, but you do need a frame, built to proper tolerances. My other bikes are all BSA, so I’m running shimano or GXP. I’ll look at the Chris King BB, but currently I’ve got PraxisWorks and Shimano BBs and both have been flawless.
@@lee1210mk2 tell me more, I am an engineer in the automotive industry :P I am all for pressfit. Doesn't change the fact though that original BB30 is not a good standard :D
I converted my mtb's bikes back to the old shimano square drive and steel cranks after years replacing many BB's and cranks. It cost me a small fortune. Never had the pleasure of a press fit or a carbon bike. I have one the square drives that has done 20,000 miles, which I still have. Good review though. Thanks for the heads up on what I'm missing.
Great explanation re press fit. I keep watching reviews lately where everyone seems to prefer threaded nowadays but Ive got press fit in my Defy. Have had the bike six years and get the bike serviced regularly and never had an issue with press fit.
Reviewers just think that’s what people want. In reality, people want quiet and light bikes, the method to achieve that is down to the designer, factory and mechanic working well.
Well interesting video, personally I didn’t know that so many standards exists. I am using Shimano drivetrain and aluminium frame, so BSA threaded BB is the best for me. I am using shimano XT ones and I replace it every 2-3 years. Never failed and never creaked.
Have used for many years King BB's for HT2 BSA on my mtb's. But found that the servicing without the King injection system a bit of a faff with removing the circlip and rubber seal to wash out and replace and the bearings werent 'that great and to replace meant sending them away and more faff. So went XTR , which were smooth as smooth but the cups arent metal and found the threads started to creak and knurl after about 2k miles. So, binned that and currently running an Uberbike stainless bearing BB. These have Enduro bearings in them, so easy to replace if needed but currently it spins Hambini levels , which would show the alignment is pretty good in my Ibis. As for my Gravel bike being a Planet X Tempest. I found the Truvativ BB;s ( 2 off them ) lasted 6 months each in wet weather. Now running a Praxis jobbie , which also has Enduro bearings , which I didnt know until I took apart and runs pretty smooth . In the end , I looked at easy fix and sensible priced. Rather than King priced ( sold mine on) and higher maintenance.. My worse case senario is now a pair of bearings for 30 odd quid. But I hope that wont be for a while. I binned a Cannondale with a BB30 set up and used the FSA BB converter to BSA and bought Shimano XT chainset to replace the FSA crankset that came with the bike. I guess that going back to the threaded shells , which are more reliable than pressing in etc.
Have a Chris King T47 threaded BB in my Carbon Ibis Hakka gravel bike…couple of years old-almost no resistance on a spin,plus lovely and smooth! Reckon on the press fit 386evo the thread together type system works well.
This video was great. I feel like this should be shown when you get hired to work in a bike shop. One of those HR Training videos. "So you decided to be a bike mechanic, let's get started! "
Great video. Thank you. Been happy with my T47 by Hambini or on metal, love my bsa68....most are great at 24mm. I have a high end one in a Ti frame for 10k miles...still smooth as butter.....the frame was perfect so the bearing sort of never had a problem.....frame matters a lot.
I have 40 year old square taper bbs still running smooth ,Xtr and DA. (On metal frames) The Colnago C40 (25 years) has alloy insert and threaded,still holding up.
My carbon Planet X , 32 year old 653 steel Ribble and 10 year old Planet X aluminium frames all have threaded BBs. Shimano Octalink cartridge BBs in all three. No issues and I always keep two new replacement BBs in my box of spares. No squeaks, creaks or clunks. If it ain't broke.......
I currently have a Carbon Dolan Ares Sl rim version which is BB30 creak creak... fitted Wheels Manufacturing aluminium treaded cups a few years ago still kinda creaks after a few spins, just purchased a BMC SL01 carbon frameset BSA cant wait to build it up and have many many miles creak free again ( Had a 2011 Carbon BMC SLO2 BSA many years ago never had a creak or days trouble from BB), love your really well explained content, greeting from Ireland 🇮🇪
I have a Kogel T47 ceramic in my Cervelo R5cx (so far, it seems to be the only one out there). It seems to be as good as the Rotor in my Dura-Ace equipped road bike; spins nice and freely and is a big improvement over the Force BB the bike came with.
i used a cane creek BB into a press fit frame for my grandsons bike with carbon DUB cranks, its got a threaded sleeve so it pulls both halves together and tightens like a threaded BB,works briliantly, no squeaks or clicks nothing,ran 2 years no problems at all.
ENDURO BEARING for my press fit BB is the best. Using it for 3-4 years now without a problem. Of course with regular re-lubrication using maxima or XHP 222 grease.
Always good to get a refresher on these. People seem to get confused with headsets too (i.e., the difference between EC, IS and ZS headsets, what the numbers mean) might be worth a video. Also I think the audio might be slightly out with the video.
"The best" depends on the intended use. One can't say that a hammer is a better tool than a screwdriver. Depends what you plan to use it for. I've had it with the multiple new standards, and on my touring and commuter bikes, I've gone back to 68 mm BSA JIS square taper cartridges. Inexpensive Token BB has a titanium spindle and cartridge bearings, light and smooth as silk. The recess for the BB tool provides excellent protection against water and snow. Timeless, simple, reliable.
@@sempi8159 yes, that’s my point…. For example the parameters for a good BB on a racing bike, a gravel bike, a touring bike, an MTB, a city bike, etc. may be very different from one another…
@@notice_fpv ok. They are really just off the shelf bearings and seals pressed into a fairly poorly machined shell. There is nothing special to justify the price.
Really nicely done. Agree with all of your conclusions, though I would note that BB30's bad reputation was as much the fault of other manufacturers as Cannondale. When they invented it in 2000ish, it was intended for aluminum bikes. They didn't use it in carbon until years later and I think they only did that first carbon generation with no metal shell. Later generations bonded in a shell or used bare carbon with PF30.
What a horror show with something that should be so simple. Have a vintage Campy bb with adjustable cups and a titanium spindle that still spins like butter. Love the machined grooves in the cups to direct the grease outward upon rotation. Have about 7 thousand miles on the system.
7000 miles on a system that was only on the market for a couple of years in the early 80s and was dropped because the ti alloy was too brittle and many of them snapped. Sure it's the Ti one? The steel ones last for ages, for sure. And the machined grooves were indeed pretty genius. But the Ti SR axles have a very bad rep indeed. Also I seriously doubt you are putting anything like the amount of load on such an axle as you would have in your 20s. I used to wear through a couple of cup and cone BBs a season when I was in my early 20s. Now I'm in my mid-50s I don't think I am physically capable of wearing stuff out prematurely any more.
It is a Teledyne spindle. They added steel races where the bearings were contacted. Agree on the sugino cups..went through them pretty regularly. The campy set was a huge upgrade. I cleaned and repacked every week. Along with the hubs. I'm still 155 pounds, so there's not a lot of weight on the system. I did get talked out of an aluminum spindle by my local shop. They were suicidal.
I still like the heel clearance of BB30. I’ve got an ‘07 carbon Cannondale Synapse with an aluminum bb shell. The bearings press in just fine. I’ve run Hawk steel bearings and Enduro ceramic with no problems.
This video is not for the fainted of heart! I think you were right, industry should start thinking about the cyclist first.. That was rough. But thanks for the content.
I have a BBInfinite on the way for my C'Dale SuperSixEvo with DUB (PF30A) to install. I read nothing but the best on these bottom brackets. I will certainly post results after installing and putting some miles on it. Ordered with ceramatech bearings. The problem I see in this industry is they need to all streamline BB systems and create a one piece one model f9r the most part rather than so darn many variations! It is mind boggling the different systems!
yep I agree Chris King makes good bsa bb but we all are not dentists.they are crazy expensive. Just like the headsets are great but overkill for most humans. Heck while we are at it get some hubs also. I am so glad you are giving techs the blame they deserve in the press fit bb issues everyone has had. It is all not all on the manufacturing side. Plenty should have been caught by techs
Quick Correction, and not sure why so many people, even really good techs get this backwards: The Drive Side is reverse threads, so to tighten the BB is the opposite direction of the crank, because if it was right hand threads, all the torque applied over time would make the BB near impossible to remove; just like pedals, but the pedal force rotates counter to the crank, so the reverse threads are on the non-drive side. Left peddle, right BB are always in the loosening direction of the torque applied not tightening
Yeah. You’re wrong. The ball bearing rotates the opposite way to the peddling direction and applies the righting force on the outer race. If the bearing were to cease, then the BB would loosen.
I'll stick with my square taper BB thank you. I just built up an NJS bike with Dura Ace cranks on a hatta BB. Easily the smoothest and strongest cranks and BB I've ever ridden.
I've ridden Pinarello's ( Italian thread) for 10 years ( average 15,000kms per year and I have never had one come loose. Currently running a Hambini TI BB with a SRAM dub crank with no issues. and I have to say the Hambini BB is the best BB I have ever ridden.
Cool. In every example there is always an ‘I’ve been doing x for 10 years’ that’s awesome, but we do see quite a few more bikes than most. So far this year about 1200
I think some factories are bad about bonding their BB into a carbon frame, I'm certain of that. But I"ve had a my Scott Addict R1 since 2007 and haven't had a single problem at all. I have a Rodeo-Labs gravel bike with T-47 internal, and I have a White Industries BB and I've been very happy with it.
Its Chris King screwed into a threaded bb shell on a Santa Cruz frame. My Chris King bb is about 14 years old, its never creaked and its still running on original bearings. Noone can beat that.
I actially have BB30 on a Tarmac sl2. Bearing slide into a metal sleeve. Still happy with it, changed bearings every 2/3 years. Recently installed the skf mtrx bearings, let’s see what the lifetime on these is!
How does it work for you? Any issues (wobble, creaks etc)? I have a TIME Izon from 2015 with BB30 and currently my entire rotor crankset wobbles like crazy and im considering whether to buy new high quality BB30 bearings or buy a twistfit onepiece solution with external bearings
For press fit, look at Wheels Manufacturing. The BB threads together internally in the press fit space. Never creaks, maintenance free. I got 39K miles on my last one and had it replaced with the same. Just picked up a Bianchi Otlre Pro and had the pressed in BB replaced before I ever rode it. This is by far, the best BB on the market. Wheels Manufacturing.
They are called thread together bottom brackets and they place a horizontal clamping force on the frame. They can fix a problem of an oversized frame, but they are not a preferred solution for a frame that is ok.
BSA the act if pedalling unscrews the bottom bracket, this makes sense so if the bearings bind you don’t overtighten jnto the frame. It doesn’t tighten into the frame as you pedal
@@Mapdec fair comment and if it all seizes it’ll try and spin the cups towards the front of the bike rather than binding it into the BB shell. Every days a school day 😀
Seriously, what do the bearings and races change about the thread directions??! The guy in the video clearly says they tighten as you pedal (with BSA)… well, they dont… they hold because you have propperly installed your bb with enough torque. But if the bearings in the bb go bad, the bb would unscrew itself, preventing* the bb working itself into the frame more and more tight. *as if a loose bb cartridge with stucks bearings wont damage the threads… it should really be unrideable at that point…
Just extracted my 11 and a half year old SHIMANO UN-55. Has been worked on/riden as a courier bike every day during that time. It tool 2 burly mechanics and a couple of vices. Sparks flew. Never been greased, bearings never replaced. And the bike is fixed. She only started making noises a few weeks ago. They sure don't make like they used to.
My 25 year old Litespeed Titanium frame has a Standard Dura Ace 11 speed R9100 BB. Four years and many kilometers in every weather...it runs like new. Threaded is and remains best.
Hi. Another nice informative video again - luckily I have no bikes whatsoever with PF Bottom Brackets. I like the idea of the T47 Bottom Bracket and feel that it will probably undergo further developments/improvements in the future as bike manufacturers have begun to subscribe to that system. While I'm here, have you done a review of the Cinelli Nemo Tig Frameset or are you likely to? The Gravel Version looks like it would make a nice all round 4 Seasons Bike? Keep Up The Great Work. 👌
I have a Seven Carbon/Ti frame with a titanium BB30 bottom bracket shell. NTN bearings were pressed into the shell in 2018 and have not been touched since. The bike has done many thousands of miles. It's still the smootest BB in my fleet of bikes. Even BB30 works well if the frame is well made.
Great video. Very confusion all these different "standards". My bike has Rotor press fit 4130 BB's. It has something over 2000 km and one of the bearings need replacement. Today I removed the cracks to have a look at it. The damaged bearing has some traces of rust. So there is an ingress of water somewhere.
Yeah. That’s a terrible combo. Very small bearings. Will need perfect alignment to work really. Also impossible to seal well. You’ll enjoy the rest of the channel.
Literally the madness that is the international bike industry in one video.
Right. Everyone tries to convince us they have found the ultimate solution
It's like those wide tyres that are supposed to be faster. Suddenly everyone has to buy new tyres!
If you read the fine print they are... slower, unless inflated at the same pressure!
Not sure what would happen to 35-45mm at 100 psi!?
I never had a problem with bottom brackets
Square taper all the way.
How the heck are mechanics supposed to keep up with all these changes? If the mechanics are expected to go on a training course every time a new component is introduced, how are the general public going to be served with reliable, affordable equipment?
This is hands down the best bb summary on RUclips. Thanks for sharing!
Wow, thanks!🙏
Completely agree with this comment ! I work for Alfred Thun Gmbh (square taper bb maker) in east Europe and this video really helps me !
I have no idea what specific BB standard my bike uses, but it has a 20+ year old Ti road frame with a threaded BB into which I installed a square taper sealed cartridge Campy BB that cost under $20 in 2003 and has been absolutely perfect and is still smooth as can be. I mostly ride on paved roads but occasionally ride over dirt, grass, gravel and roads that are in horrible condition. Works for me.
Square taper cartridge BB's are far more durable for the money than any of the current options. They're also a lot heavier and the axles snap when they're ridden hard off road, or on trials bikes, and holy crap do they let go with a bang and give no warning at all that there's a fatigue crack working its way through the axle until they let go.
All the hollow axle setups where the axle is part of the crank mean the cranks need to be thrown out eventually unless its ridden in clean dry conditions as grit works its way between the axle and the BB bearing, eventually wearing the diameter of the BB axle out of tolerance, so there's still visible play even when installed with a brand new BB. It takes about 10 years and maybe 10 000+ miles of riding in wet muddy conditions to do it though, at which point fatigue cracking in the cranks themselves and pedal thread failure aren't far off either, so still not bad value for money on the XT crankset I killed that way.
@@peglor I don't know, but snapping square taper BB's seems like it is a rarity rather than the rule, even if riding off-road. They are cheap, reliable and plentiful. They just work, and yet, we have created so many standard, some of which literally are no longer supported making the frames obsolete if the current BB fails. I lucked out, as my cross bike has a Press Fit 30 that is the standard design. Others had very specific press fit systems that are no longer manufactured, not even by Wheels Manufacturing,
4 years on my SKF square taper bottom bracket and counting. Most of my square taper bb's have lasted way longer than bb cups. Best looking cranks as well.
Only 4 years try 20+ on my fair weather lots of chrome accents bike.
@@escgoogle3865 The SKF bb is on my commuter, ridden 5 days a week in all weather for 4 years. No downtime, no adjustments required, just clean and ride, like it should be. It comes with a 10 year warranty as well, the audacity, lol.
@escgoogle3865 it's time riding the bike that is meaningful. Storage time doesn't count. No bottom bracket could last 120,000 miles.
@@peterwillson1355definitely not 120k miles…. But a loose ball bearing bb will go for many many years of daily riding so long as you keep up with maintenance, but could say that about everything lol
Goody for you, Gramps. How are those canti brakes holding up?
The press fit bbs where the two halves of the bb thread into each other and don't require a press are great. I installed them easily myself and been running them for years with no issues.
Liz Hurley rides Hambini BBs... I wish BB meant ball bag.
Off the shelf or a custom unit?
I wonder if she had her shell reamed first?
I'm sure she's been chased and faced.
Smooth as silk
What about wheels manufacturing bottom bracket bb86
As a mechanic, good video! And your Fazit fits😁‼️ Pressfit isn't as bad, like a lot of people think. The first year of Pressfit, in my workshop, I hated this " plastic toy story" stuff! Since 2017 I use Shimano press fit, on my actual aluminum DH Frame, and I never had Saint cranks, running that smooth and easy. But for almost 80 to 90 % of all bike frames, BSA is the best and most proper way, solution. Clean Thread, tightening brackets, Crankshaft and cranks mounting. Ready to go.
The only, a bit negative thing about Hollow tech II Shimano bearings, they have a bit less long life durability qualities.....
Fazit= Conclusion Robert
B S C = British Standard Cycle.
B S A = Birmingham Small Arms.
B S C = no Peaky Blinders
B S A = plenty of Peaky Blinders
Big Swifty & Associates. @@11robotics
@@sjanzeir No such thing as a bErmingham.
And the forgettable BCA = Bicycle Corporation of America.
BCA made various low end bikes in the 80s/90s, but some had acceptable spec like full True Temper frames.
We used to call BSA Best S#*t Around
BB30 in a sl6 SW Tarmac here, no alignment problems. I’ve got a Hambini race bottombracket NTN bearings for 24 mm Shimano. 0 creaks, stiff and butter smooth.
That was exhausting! There's a reason I like steel and ti. Its proper engineering with simple solutions. 👍
YOU HAVE EXCELLED in this video, everything I could have said on this subject you've said for me. Except for one thing, you said it in a kind manner, I personally would have disgraced many frame manufacturers, who for years have taken us the bike shops, and punters literally for a ride. WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND sooner or later. Practicallity and functionallity will always beat high end pointless designs which aim to make manufacturers rich! Seriously, do bike brands really believe there are people out there that have no engineering or mechanical background, and do they think we are all so stupid? Two simple bearings in a round hole, how the F can anyone get it wrong? Yet all these great Engineering University grads have done so for years, how? by simply saving money and spending less on quality! LONG LIVE THE BSA THREADED BB! Cheers rant over. Mapdec......Nice one mate!!!😉
🙏
Exceptionally educational and sensible. This is 100% on target.
As a cytec qualified former shop mechanic who wrenched through the naughties I can confirm - if it’s metal King every time. Even a used king bb is better than the competition, also serviceable and backed by a lifetime warranty.
I only have one stupid bb standard in my Parlee Z5 (OG bb30 bearings and c clips) but I fitted it properly and it’s never given me a problem, don’t ride it in the rain and don’t let it get too cold or too hot…
Was about to purchase BBinfinite Threaded BB but bought a CK threaded instead as it was on sale (still cost more). Then I came across this video. Worth it. Thanks for the detailed explanation!
Worked in shops all through all the bottom bracket standard evolution. Personally, I never had ANY issues with any of the 5 BB30 bikes I owned (still have one!) but of course saw plenty of issues on poorly set up customer bikes. I agree that 386evo isn’t a bad design if a bracket goes in that uses replaceable bearings but I have to say I’m all in on T47. I have two bikes with t47 and they just work so well with the bigger spindle sizes and easy servicing. Also, if you have a T47 68mm shell designed for outboard bearings, you can use the inboard instead and use your old BB30 crank with a narrow dbca. Takes some doing but you can make it work. As for T47 quality, the Wheels Mfg bis nice (you can swap in higher quality bearings) and I just installed a SRAM ceramic T47 on my melee and was quite impressed with the quality. Also uses replaceable bearings (6806).
I started with the sealed cartridge square taper bottom brackets back in the early 90's. After the introduction of the press fits, I got a little lost on all the new sizing and standards. I've never owned or ridden any of these new bottom bracket standards. This is very helpful. Great explanations. Thank you.
Likewise. I remember the big faff with ISIS and Octolink, and then Holowtech was literally a year later and everyone went nuts.
I've crippled bottom brackets until I stuck a hambini in my s works. Never looked back. Never changed bearings either. Silent fast spinning setup.
Good OSBB problem solver.
I went with a Wheels Manufacturing BB for my creaking Giant press fit, and it fixed it 100%.
Ten years of perfect service from the Praxis BB30 to Shimano 24mm adaptor. Using this setup in a 2013-14 Felt Z4 carbon bike I bought new. The original BB30 bearings lasted 100 miles before creaking. I now have over 13,000 miles on the Felt with the Praxis conversion kit. Quality kit!
A brilliant video, as a home DIY mechanic I have spent many hours researching up the different BB standards over the years. This is a great summary thank you. I have Shimano BB89 ultegra version on my Canyon and surprisingly I got about 16,000km on it before the bearings went on the NDS cup. I've just replaced it with exactly the same BB. Very happy with that level of longevity and the cost is very good.
10,000 miles is a good innings for a modern bb?!?!😂
@@peterwillson1355 My Canyon Ultimate is still on the original BB86 BB with just under 30,000km on it. I regularly take the cranks off and check , clean and regrease everything and am amazed it still is as smooth as the day it came. My nephew is running a DUB on his Ultimate and they don't even last a year before needing changed.
This is one of the most confusing topics regarding bikes for me as I tend to try different bike manufactors on a regular basis and struggle with the bb / crank issues.
I found this informative, succinct with some visuals ( itend to be a visual learner)
Great job, thanks.
Shimano MT800 for me every time. It's not as premium as a Chris King but it is cheap, reliable and smooth. And I can keep a few in the drawer and still come well out on top.
I’ve been a dedicated BBINFINATE user for several years now. I have used both press fit and threaded on my bikes. As far as durability and wear I’ve had no problems. I do tend to care for my bikes well above the normal maintenance requirements and standards. I replace bearing seals, clean and lube the BB bearings twice a year. Similar to UK weather I live in the Pacific Northwest and deal with rain, mud, slop, grit and road crud quite a bit so it’s essential to keep up on the preventive maintenance.
Rotors ceramic BB386 is a very good BB! I have over 10K miles on mine, and it still spins smoothly.
I'm a BMXer trying to understand road bikes, very clear explanation of the history of all these road bike standards, thanks!
Glad to help! BMX BBs are so much easier.
@@Mapdec Yeah, I think there were a few competing standards for BMX freestyle when I started 15 years ago, but Mid BB (press fit into steel frame) has been the only one for a while, and can be installed with a rubber mallet and 2X4, lol! Cheers!
Reassuring as the new bike I’ve just built is BB386evo. Went for a Wheels Manufacturing thread together bottom bracket which seems pretty decent
Thanks for this. Coming back to cycling after a 2+ decade interval, I'm in a state of bemusement over the supposed 'development' of so many bike components that have changed. For my current build, I'm now even more convinced of the superiority of BSA-threaded, square-taper, traditional bottom brackets !
Umm. Heavy, needs a lot of tools, can round out, cease on, needs a lot of size options for chain line,
I've had the tools for years TBH that's one reason I'm sticking with the old tech, and I don't recall ever having major difficulties with it. Unlike the cheese lockrings etc on later sealed units I've touched. @@Mapdec
Agreed, weight doesn't matter and they last forever!
And they have the best looking cranks
I use square taper, BSA thread bottom brackets. There is no getting around the fact that you can round them, you can get the crank part seized on etc. however, they are 15 bucks for a whole one, easy to take out, easy to lube, and you can just buy bearings if you want, don't need to replace the whole thing. But then again I don't get dressed up in lycra and cycle in the middle of the road, I just spend my life using it as a get around.
not sure what bike your looking at but if your building up and want a killer square taper check out the white industries sq bottom bracket and matching cranks. just my 2 cents.
clear and very easy to understand in this ever confusing topic... thank you
A very good take, but I think you really missed an engineering novelty that is elegant and long weathering. Campagnolo brilliantly moved the cartridge bearing away from the shell and onto the crank spindle. It's brilliant because you only need to press in cups into a shell. The cups accommodate the same sized bearing, no matter the standard. Campag has standardized the bearing size and just left the cup size a thing to be determined. It's a brilliant way to guarantee a certain standard of bearing durability. What size spindle do they use? Who knows and who cares, the stock bearings last forever. If you're lucky enough to have a set that runs out of life, it is a pfaff to replace, but then you are good for another eternity.
Campag doesn't get the credit they deserve for this. Imagine my 3T exploro RaceMax running Ekar. 386Evo AND Campag's ProTech BB. I don't know that I will ever need to change out that BB, it's that good.
Campg is easy. If you have a campg crank, use a campag BB regardless of the frame standard.
Campy doesn't get enough credit period. Excluding EPS, they've had some really great products since back in the friction days when they were more mainstream.
I've changed BBs many, many times over the years, but never because mine was worn. Rather, I've changed due to new frames and/or new cranksets that required a different standard. Fortunately, all of mine have been threaded, so no issues with improper press-fit installation.
My old (2014) SPECIALIZED mtb went through a pf30 BB every 6 months…great system 😂
Both Italian and English square taper BBs here (Oh the shame...). The Italian threaded one in my C olnago Super Piu has been in since 2005, with a brief removal in 2012 when the bike was refurbed. Never needed to be retightened (though admittedly the one on my Ti Colnago CT2 did once unscrew on a ride...). It replaced an Italian thread BB that had been in since 1994, but upgrading to REcord needed a new BB due the low profile chainset. I do agree, the English thread BBs are all rock solid. ANd they're all Square Taper, and they all work perfectly.
good stuff, short and punchy. I'm happy with my PF86 so far, but that's mainly because I'm very happy with my bike.
Amazing content. You're the best cycling channel on RUclips no question
Wow. 😮. Thanks.
Thank you for explaining this issue in a clear and concise manner. The bicycle industry needs to stick to one standard that works and to stop p#ssing around.
Totally agree that press fit done properly is absolutely fine. My Bianchi has a BB86 press fit. I use the standard Ultegra SM-BB72-41B and it runs super smooth with no creaking. I do use a thin smear of grease when installing. Take home message if you’re frame is in spec you don’t require an expensive aftermarket 1 piece bottom bracket, the Shimano parts perform perfectly.
Why did you use grease? It’s not in the instructions and will break down the plastic shell.
@@Mapdec To aid removal down the line. I use a very thin smear of grease that is carbon compatible. I’m on my third BB now and there is no evidence that the grease has made even the slightest impact on the frame or the BB cups. When I removed the original BB no grease had been used at the factory it had been installed dry and it was very hard to remove.
@@clp91009 carbon is inert. It’s the bearing cup that degrades. It’s good to know the original mechanic read the instructions and did it right. 👍
I'm curious how long do they last (since you're already at number 3!), kilometers/years, and why exactly did you replace them, ie how did they fail?
I'm asking because I have a sImilar BB-RS500-PB, but I don't see how I could remove it myself, in fact I already had several bikes that I chose replace because the axis was too lose (and other maintenance was needed at this point of course, else I would have asked a shop to do it), but my guess was that replacing the ball bearings would have been enough...
@@DR_1_1 1-2 years which is about 10,000km for me. I just replace them after that time as preventive maintenance, they don’t typically fail. Over time they become more draggy and don’t spin as freely. I’ve never had one seize but my mate did and he spun a bearing causing some minor frame damage.
I have a hope threaded BB on one of my bikes and has been a dream for YEARS!
I have had a threaded insert debond from a carbon frame. It was really glued poorly. And a very rough surface prep of the aluminium. I actually never had problem with ITA threads, the campagnolo square tapers are smooth!. Currently running almost all BB standards on my 8 different bikes. ITA, BSA, PF30....
I recently upgraded my 19mm spindle FSA to a 30mm crankset by FSA and the mental gymnastics I had to do to come up with the right BSA BB and spacers for my 68mm wide Aluminum frame was exhausting! Finally got it working and it's so smooth! Wish I had the money to get some chris kings, but FSA will do for now.
I'm running t47 BB on my ti and chapter 2 bike and also have a caad13 and Synpase Bb30...t47 hands down no issue and easy to service myself.
I love my BB30, it’s been perfect. My frame is a Felt Z5, with a molded in metal collar for the BB. Bearings fit perfectly. I’ve used PraxisWorks BBs to convert to 30mm and GXP. I’m currently running standard BB30 with SRAM carbon crank. Super light and zero issues, but you do need a frame, built to proper tolerances.
My other bikes are all BSA, so I’m running shimano or GXP. I’ll look at the Chris King BB, but currently I’ve got PraxisWorks and Shimano BBs and both have been flawless.
BB30 🤮
I mean if you're putting in a metal sleeve might as well put threads in it
@@MS-bw7yt Precision bearings are all press fit! Nearly all bearings in automotive applications are pressfit!
@@lee1210mk2 tell me more, I am an engineer in the automotive industry :P I am all for pressfit. Doesn't change the fact though that original BB30 is not a good standard :D
@@MS-bw7yt not a good standard for all carbon frames is the proper way of saying.
I converted my mtb's bikes back to the old shimano square drive and steel cranks after years replacing many BB's and cranks. It cost me a small fortune. Never had the pleasure of a press fit or a carbon bike.
I have one the square drives that has done 20,000 miles, which I still have. Good review though. Thanks for the heads up on what I'm missing.
Great explanation re press fit. I keep watching reviews lately where everyone seems to prefer threaded nowadays but Ive got press fit in my Defy. Have had the bike six years and get the bike serviced regularly and never had an issue with press fit.
Reviewers just think that’s what people want. In reality, people want quiet and light bikes, the method to achieve that is down to the designer, factory and mechanic working well.
Well interesting video, personally I didn’t know that so many standards exists.
I am using Shimano drivetrain and aluminium frame, so BSA threaded BB is the best for me. I am using shimano XT ones and I replace it every 2-3 years. Never failed and never creaked.
Finally someone who doesn't whine about pressfit. I have (had) multiple bikes with pressfit bb's. Never any issues 🤷🏼♂️
Have used for many years King BB's for HT2 BSA on my mtb's. But found that the servicing without the King injection system a bit of a faff with removing the circlip and rubber seal to wash out and replace and the bearings werent 'that great and to replace meant sending them away and more faff. So went XTR , which were smooth as smooth but the cups arent metal and found the threads started to creak and knurl after about 2k miles. So, binned that and currently running an Uberbike stainless bearing BB. These have Enduro bearings in them, so easy to replace if needed but currently it spins Hambini levels , which would show the alignment is pretty good in my Ibis.
As for my Gravel bike being a Planet X Tempest. I found the Truvativ BB;s ( 2 off them ) lasted 6 months each in wet weather. Now running a Praxis jobbie , which also has Enduro bearings , which I didnt know until I took apart and runs pretty smooth . In the end , I looked at easy fix and sensible priced. Rather than King priced ( sold mine on) and higher maintenance.. My worse case senario is now a pair of bearings for 30 odd quid. But I hope that wont be for a while.
I binned a Cannondale with a BB30 set up and used the FSA BB converter to BSA and bought Shimano XT chainset to replace the FSA crankset that came with the bike. I guess that going back to the threaded shells , which are more reliable than pressing in etc.
Have a Chris King T47 threaded BB in my Carbon Ibis Hakka gravel bike…couple of years old-almost no resistance on a spin,plus lovely and smooth! Reckon on the press fit 386evo the thread together type system works well.
Chris King threaded on my Titanium Baum road bike is the best bottom bracket I've ever ridden bar none.
This video was great. I feel like this should be shown when you get hired to work in a bike shop. One of those HR Training videos. "So you decided to be a bike mechanic, let's get started! "
Haha. Yes. Our new apprentice watched it And had a freak out moment
Well done, cutting straight to the chase. My experience with high end Ti and Carbon frames mirrors your choices, BSA 24mm & BB386Evo respectively.
Thank you so much. Really appreciate the super thanks. 🙏
I love my c-bear bbright 46mm, no creaking, and the ds bearing is outside of the frame, as close to the crank as on the nds. Happy days.
Great video. Thank you.
Been happy with my T47 by Hambini or on metal, love my bsa68....most are great at 24mm. I have a high end one in a Ti frame for 10k miles...still smooth as butter.....the frame was perfect so the bearing sort of never had a problem.....frame matters a lot.
I have 40 year old square
taper bbs still running smooth ,Xtr and DA.
(On metal frames)
The Colnago C40 (25 years) has alloy insert and threaded,still holding up.
Never had an Italian BB undo itself more of an urban legend
My Fav of all time is 386 screw together with 24mm sleeved , stays quiet running on the delrin sleeves and stays tight in frame
Plus one on the DUB in a 41mm hole woes. Currently scouring ebay for gxp sram cranks 😂
My carbon Planet X , 32 year old 653 steel Ribble and 10 year old Planet X aluminium frames all have threaded BBs. Shimano Octalink cartridge BBs in all three. No issues and I always keep two new replacement BBs in my box of spares. No squeaks, creaks or clunks. If it ain't broke.......
I currently have a Carbon Dolan Ares Sl rim version which is BB30 creak creak... fitted Wheels Manufacturing aluminium treaded cups a few years ago still kinda creaks after a few spins, just purchased a BMC SL01 carbon frameset BSA cant wait to build it up and have many many miles creak free again ( Had a 2011 Carbon BMC SLO2 BSA many years ago never had a creak or days trouble from BB), love your really well explained content, greeting from Ireland 🇮🇪
Congrats. Best not search for BMC on our channel. 😬
T47i - I’ll go with Chris King, Wheels Manufacturing and Kogel.
I have a Kogel T47 ceramic in my Cervelo R5cx (so far, it seems to be the only one out there). It seems to be as good as the Rotor in my Dura-Ace equipped road bike; spins nice and freely and is a big improvement over the Force BB the bike came with.
Think I need to watch this a few times. 🤯 I’ll just give you a call I think when the time comes👍 live in ulverston so just down the road.
i used a cane creek BB into a press fit frame for my grandsons bike with carbon DUB cranks, its got a threaded sleeve so it pulls both halves together and tightens like a threaded BB,works briliantly, no squeaks or clicks nothing,ran 2 years no problems at all.
ENDURO BEARING for my press fit BB is the best. Using it for 3-4 years now without a problem. Of course with regular re-lubrication using maxima or XHP 222 grease.
Always good to get a refresher on these. People seem to get confused with headsets too (i.e., the difference between EC, IS and ZS headsets, what the numbers mean) might be worth a video. Also I think the audio might be slightly out with the video.
Too many mic drops 😂
"The best" depends on the intended use. One can't say that a hammer is a better tool than a screwdriver. Depends what you plan to use it for.
I've had it with the multiple new standards, and on my touring and commuter bikes, I've gone back to 68 mm BSA JIS square taper cartridges. Inexpensive Token BB has a titanium spindle and cartridge bearings, light and smooth as silk. The recess for the BB tool provides excellent protection against water and snow. Timeless, simple, reliable.
What? All bb are used for the same thing... What are you talking about?
@@sempi8159 well, talking about which and what kind of BB to use...
not what they're used FOR.... that's pretty obvious... :)
@@PRH123 "the best depends on the intended use"??
@@sempi8159 yes, that’s my point…. For example the parameters for a good BB on a racing bike, a gravel bike, a touring bike, an MTB, a city bike, etc. may be very different from one another…
Wheels Manufacturing deserves to be in this competition...
Why. They don’t make anything good.
@@Mapdec Wow, really? Agree to disagree, then.
@@notice_fpv ok. They are really just off the shelf bearings and seals pressed into a fairly poorly machined shell. There is nothing special to justify the price.
As a mtb rider without the urge to ride carbon bsa works just fine :D nice informative video.
Really nicely done. Agree with all of your conclusions, though I would note that BB30's bad reputation was as much the fault of other manufacturers as Cannondale. When they invented it in 2000ish, it was intended for aluminum bikes. They didn't use it in carbon until years later and I think they only did that first carbon generation with no metal shell. Later generations bonded in a shell or used bare carbon with PF30.
Today I learned something. Thank you.
Uncrewed italian BB are like worn off rim braking surfaces. Something very few people have seen.
What a horror show with something that should be so simple. Have a vintage Campy bb with adjustable cups and a titanium spindle that still spins like butter. Love the machined grooves in the cups to direct the grease outward upon rotation. Have about 7 thousand miles on the system.
7000 miles on a system that was only on the market for a couple of years in the early 80s and was dropped because the ti alloy was too brittle and many of them snapped. Sure it's the Ti one?
The steel ones last for ages, for sure. And the machined grooves were indeed pretty genius. But the Ti SR axles have a very bad rep indeed.
Also I seriously doubt you are putting anything like the amount of load on such an axle as you would have in your 20s. I used to wear through a couple of cup and cone BBs a season when I was in my early 20s. Now I'm in my mid-50s I don't think I am physically capable of wearing stuff out prematurely any more.
It is a Teledyne spindle. They added steel races where the bearings were contacted. Agree on the sugino cups..went through them pretty regularly. The campy set was a huge upgrade. I cleaned and repacked every week. Along with the hubs. I'm still 155 pounds, so there's not a lot of weight on the system. I did get talked out of an aluminum spindle by my local shop. They were suicidal.
Excellent presentation. It must have taken a fair amount of work to write, shoot and edit. Thank you for helping us understand.
I just rolled this off the top of my head at 11am this morning 😳
I still like the heel clearance of BB30. I’ve got an ‘07 carbon Cannondale Synapse with an aluminum bb shell. The bearings press in just fine. I’ve run Hawk steel bearings and Enduro ceramic with no problems.
This video is not for the fainted of heart! I think you were right, industry should start thinking about the cyclist first.. That was rough. But thanks for the content.
I have a BBInfinite on the way for my C'Dale SuperSixEvo with DUB (PF30A) to install. I read nothing but the best on these bottom brackets. I will certainly post results after installing and putting some miles on it. Ordered with ceramatech bearings. The problem I see in this industry is they need to all streamline BB systems and create a one piece one model f9r the most part rather than so darn many variations! It is mind boggling the different systems!
I’ve got BBInfinite in two frames, including a 2010 Supersix that came with BB30 bearings. Really like the BBInfinite products.
That is good to know, thanks.@@Dr.Schlitz
Wow. What an incredible summary!
This channel is brilliant! Straight to the point with great information.
Keep it up guys! 👍
Thank you.
Wow, shutting down all other cycling channels with one video
🎤
yep I agree Chris King makes good bsa bb but we all are not dentists.they are crazy expensive. Just like the headsets are great but overkill for most humans. Heck while we are at it get some hubs also.
I am so glad you are giving techs the blame they deserve in the press fit bb issues everyone has had. It is all not all on the manufacturing side. Plenty should have been caught by techs
Quick Correction, and not sure why so many people, even really good techs get this backwards: The Drive Side is reverse threads, so to tighten the BB is the opposite direction of the crank, because if it was right hand threads, all the torque applied over time would make the BB near impossible to remove; just like pedals, but the pedal force rotates counter to the crank, so the reverse threads are on the non-drive side. Left peddle, right BB are always in the loosening direction of the torque applied not tightening
Yeah. You’re wrong. The ball bearing rotates the opposite way to the peddling direction and applies the righting force on the outer race. If the bearing were to cease, then the BB would loosen.
I'll stick with my square taper BB thank you. I just built up an NJS bike with Dura Ace cranks on a hatta BB. Easily the smoothest and strongest cranks and BB I've ever ridden.
thank you for making these educational videos
I've ridden Pinarello's ( Italian thread) for 10 years ( average 15,000kms per year and I have never had one come loose. Currently running a Hambini TI BB with a SRAM dub crank with no issues. and I have to say the Hambini BB is the best BB I have ever ridden.
Cool. In every example there is always an ‘I’ve been doing x for 10 years’ that’s awesome, but we do see quite a few more bikes than most. So far this year about 1200
Great review thank you 👍 I would have liked to see some discussion around the Campy UT system and its merits/issues though.
Fair. I didn’t mention it. If you have campy cranks, fit campy BB. End of story really.
I've never had a single issue with my bb30, just replaced the bearings once in about 10k miles. However, give me BSA any day, much better design.
It is not a better design, It's a lazy one!
Yay, I have T47 internal. That's the reason I chose my bike.
I think some factories are bad about bonding their BB into a carbon frame, I'm certain of that. But I"ve had a my Scott Addict R1 since 2007 and haven't had a single problem at all.
I have a Rodeo-Labs gravel bike with T-47 internal, and I have a White Industries BB and I've been very happy with it.
Its Chris King screwed into a threaded bb shell on a Santa Cruz frame. My Chris King bb is about 14 years old, its never creaked and its still running on original bearings. Noone can beat that.
I bet they would still warranty it too.
I actially have BB30 on a Tarmac sl2. Bearing slide into a metal sleeve.
Still happy with it, changed bearings every 2/3 years.
Recently installed the skf mtrx bearings, let’s see what the lifetime on these is!
How does it work for you? Any issues (wobble, creaks etc)?
I have a TIME Izon from 2015 with BB30 and currently my entire rotor crankset wobbles like crazy and im considering whether to buy new high quality BB30 bearings or buy a twistfit onepiece solution with external bearings
For press fit, look at Wheels Manufacturing. The BB threads together internally in the press fit space. Never creaks, maintenance free. I got 39K miles on my last one and had it replaced with the same. Just picked up a Bianchi Otlre Pro and had the pressed in BB replaced before I ever rode it. This is by far, the best BB on the market. Wheels Manufacturing.
They are called thread together bottom brackets and they place a horizontal clamping force on the frame. They can fix a problem of an oversized frame, but they are not a preferred solution for a frame that is ok.
Great video on BB's!! Wow there's a lot of BB standards out there!
BSA the act if pedalling unscrews the bottom bracket, this makes sense so if the bearings bind you don’t overtighten jnto the frame. It doesn’t tighten into the frame as you pedal
Think again. There is a ball bearing in between the 2 races remember.
@@Mapdec fair comment and if it all seizes it’ll try and spin the cups towards the front of the bike rather than binding it into the BB shell. Every days a school day 😀
Seriously, what do the bearings and races change about the thread directions??! The guy in the video clearly says they tighten as you pedal (with BSA)… well, they dont… they hold because you have propperly installed your bb with enough torque. But if the bearings in the bb go bad, the bb would unscrew itself, preventing* the bb working itself into the frame more and more tight.
*as if a loose bb cartridge with stucks bearings wont damage the threads… it should really be unrideable at that point…
Just extracted my 11 and a half year old SHIMANO UN-55. Has been worked on/riden as a courier bike every day during that time. It tool 2 burly mechanics and a couple of vices. Sparks flew. Never been greased, bearings never replaced. And the bike is fixed. She only started making noises a few weeks ago. They sure don't make like they used to.
Need a new bracket for my old 2014 Cannondale Synapse 105 with FSI crankset, great video but as a non bike mechanic this was a tad confusing:)
What a great video absolutely something to favorite. I’m absolutely a fan of bb386’s with the wheels mfg bb’s.
My 25 year old Litespeed Titanium frame has a Standard Dura Ace 11 speed R9100 BB. Four years and many kilometers in every weather...it runs like new. Threaded is and remains best.
Hi.
Another nice informative video again - luckily I have no bikes whatsoever with PF Bottom Brackets.
I like the idea of the T47 Bottom Bracket and feel that it will probably undergo further developments/improvements in the future as bike manufacturers have begun to subscribe to that system.
While I'm here, have you done a review of the Cinelli Nemo Tig Frameset or are you likely to? The Gravel Version looks like it would make a nice all round 4 Seasons Bike?
Keep Up The Great Work. 👌
Thank you. I only review what customers buy from us. If someone orders one, it will probably go on the channel.
I have a Seven Carbon/Ti frame with a titanium BB30 bottom bracket shell. NTN bearings were pressed into the shell in 2018 and have not been touched since. The bike has done many thousands of miles. It's still the smootest BB in my fleet of bikes. Even BB30 works well if the frame is well made.
That’s because your frame his built to a high tolerance standard. 90% of the industry is junk.
I always get Praxis T47i bottom brackets just because they're usually the cheapest decent option
Great video. Very confusion all these different "standards". My bike has Rotor press fit 4130 BB's. It has something over 2000 km and one of the bearings need replacement. Today I removed the cracks to have a look at it. The damaged bearing has some traces of rust. So there is an ingress of water somewhere.
Yeah. That’s a terrible combo. Very small bearings. Will need perfect alignment to work really. Also impossible to seal well. You’ll enjoy the rest of the channel.