Tl;Dr: shift to big-big, backpedal, apply one drop wax lube to each roller right before it engages a cassette tooth. Then shift through the gears once or twice before letting the chain sit to dry. Ideally 12-24 hours. Watch the other 14:50 if you want to know "why" in addition to the "how". Josh's teachers gave the rest of his peers a minimum page count for all writing assignments. For Josh they had to give a maximum page count.
Youve converted me to a silca wax man just purely from the fact you educate. So over being "marketed" to. Explain it to me so I can make an informed decision! Thank you Josh.
Cool ! How many rides do you end up going on in a year ? Mmmm lesee . . . 52 weeks in a year divided by 6 . . . roughly 8.6 rides a year that is IF you don't have winter conditions to contend with that will kill a ride or two . . . ideal to get in shape for the next Tour de France, right? LOL Kudos on the irony ! You could always switch over to roller blading . . .only EIGHT or so wheels to dismantle on those beauties :-) Cheers!
@@JRmntain LOL . . . good one . . . hey you gotta look on the bright side right? - Gives you time to recuperate from your last ride and to load up on carbs for your next one :-)
@@JRmntain I follow the same procedure and run 52 chains, rotating them through the maintenance steps. This makes sure I have the lowest friction physically possible for my once a week uber extreme 30 mile Sunday group ride at avg 15mph.
@@emc3065 Why stop there? How about a different chain for each ride for an entire year? lf you ride every other day, you'll only need 158 chains, which could easily last for many years without any measurable wear. They could probably design a special contaminant free track in the courtyard of the nuthouse where you'll be living to further decrease friction due particle induced chain wear. l plan to discuss this genius idea with my psychiatrist during our next session.
Interesting video. However, in our shop, we have demostrated that with the chain in the smallest chainring/smallest cog that application of lubricant drop by drop to the lower chain (between chainring and pulley wheel) once around and then working then pedaling the chain backward about 20 times allowed for excellent penetration. We did this by coloring the lubricant yellow, applying, working the chain backward and finally wiping off the excess. We then disassembled the chain and found excellent penetration around pins and bushings. We looked at several dry lubricant such as Finish Line Dry and few more as well as several wet lubricants. We did not look at Silca lubricant or wax lubricants. I think the method of coloring the lubricant and disassembly of the chain gives good proof of penetration and you may want to consider this technique in addition to your observations before recommending your method as the best for all chain lubricants. We have also shown that placing chain lubricant - at the cassette - can result in contaimination onto the cassette cogs and derailleur and would caution viewers that contaimination of rotors and brake pads can occur if one is not extremely careful. These are just our observations for what it's worth.
Pretty much what I've done for decades now though I don't bother with what cog or chainring the chain is actually in-contact with. Capillary attraction (with oil at least) is an amazing thing. If you drip the lube into the area of the side plate/roller interface it finds its way into the chain amazingly well after "backpedaling" few times before you wipe off any excess by running the chain through a clean rag. This isn't "rocket surgery" IMHO.
It's really cool and helpful to actually _see_ how it works. That close up of the lube getting pulled in via capillary action and then pumped through was great! Also nice that the super secret is white, that really helps show it happen. Thanks for recording this video (and making the lube ;P) 🙌🏾
Awesome video Josh we have started selling your product in your shop and absolutely loving it , I’ve also been sending a lot of our customers to your channel to get educated! Thanks and keep them coming
As soon as Josh said where to put the lube I was like, "Oh duh, that does make sense. I can see how that'd work really well." Then he demonstrated it under the microscope and it still blew my mind with how well it worked.
That's where I always applied lube for decades and when I switched to wax, I switched to the bottom because of your video. I love that you did the work though and corrected your information. Back to the place I've always done it. BTW, love the secret/super secret combination.
Josh, you are one of the really good guys in cycling! I always enjoy your content, and it is always very well thought out, thank you Sir excellent video!
Fascinating to see the lube drawn up into the links BEFORE you even started moving it! Now I gotta go lube my chain again - with Super Secret of course!
Very nice, Josh! A solid contribution of useful, practical knowledge for routine bike maintenance. Loved it! So few cyclists understand what's going on w/chains. This really adds a nice refinement to the knowledge base. Keep on, bro! Also, appreciate your humility regarding the past advice and why it was given. Admitting a mistake is a great credibility builder. Keep on with that, too!
I’ve been tweaking and fussing with my drive train for years trying to get the noise down. My first application of Silca Super Secret and POOF! The noise is gone. Riding is such a joy with this stuff.
Why not have a little tray about 2 cm in length that you fill with lube. You put that underneath the chain and you pull lightly outwards while you spin the cranks. The chain deflects a little while it runs through the tray, soaking up the lube.
Since I switched to chain wax, I applied it on the bottom side of the chain (where the front derailleur is, this I did so already with oil-based chain lube when I started cycling over 30 years ago), hold a several times folded good quality kitchen cloth (it does not dissolve in a washing machine when by accident left in a pocket) below it, and then put the wax very generous on the chain, and then I twist the chain and also bend it a little bit. After about 40 links, the kitchen cloth itself as absorbed a certain amount of wax, so I can also wrap it around the chain and can create a kind of "wax bath". When all links are waxed, I do a second run,wrap the chain on the length of about 10 links and squeeze the cloth a little bit. When the drivetrain gets noisy, I know its time to rewax (after about 200km/125mi).
I've started recently to lightly tap on my pedals frequently when applying my lube. When chain engages and disengages a few times it helps with caplilary action to get lube insode rollers
I have two questions. 1. I put on a nitrile glove and massage the excess lube into the rollers. Good idea or not? 2. There is still quite a bit of excess wax on the exterior of the chain so once the chain is dried, I sometimes hit it very quickly with a heat gun. I can see the wax turn from solid to liquid and it appears to soak into the rollers. Is this helping or hurting?
Josh makes it really hard to argue with using his products. I can say, this wax does last the longest, has the least sound, and has helped all my chains last so long. I just checked a chain with a digital gauge after 2000km, and I couldn't even get my gauge to read 0.01. I have replaced cogs sizes, replaced chainring sizes, or crashed my bikes before replacing my chain. I had one with about 8000k on it and I had 0.16 wear, so around 25% use, as I generally switch around 0.6.
? So are putting a drip on each joint ? ? You are back peddling also correct ? A brief video clip of the correct process would dispel the incorrect processes…
That was masterful. Simple, yet genius. A *Big Thanks* to you Josh! I've never done that before! On my former teams I followed the advice of our mechanics by applying a single drop on top of each pin-roller interface all the way round, then ran entire the gears through top to bottom on inner and outer chainrings 2-3 times (just to create that super-light initial coating), but never at that precise location you've so cleverly demonstrated :-)
What happens to the drip wax on the chain when you go to re-hot melt the chain? Does it exit the chain when melted in the pot, but then after X# times, change the make-up of, or "contaminate" the hot wax to be reused in the future (since you do not clean a drip wax chain before hot melting)?
EXCELLENT EXPLANATION OF GREAT VALUE TO ALL ENTHUSIASTS! This is the best and most plausible explanation I have ever seen. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
What an awesome video. Normally I would just skip to the the to see what the “answer” is, but this was super interesting. Thanks for showing under the microscope, that was awesome.
Loved the description of the chain coating “hates water loves oil”…..I thought it was more descriptive of the customer base I deal with …..filthy bikes and chains like a sump tray.
Thank you so much for validating how I have applied chain lube over the last three decades! I learned this from my Dad at Parker Bikes in the late 1980s. This really does answer the question "Why".
Now I have a great view of what is going on every time I hang my chain from my home made coat hanger hook to clean my chain and lubricate it. I always would "twist" the chain as I lubed it because it just looked like it was getting better coverage. Now I know for sure. Good job.
Thank you Josh. I generally clean my chain using the Park Too chain scrubber and Simple Green after 1-2 rides. I’ve been using dry lube spray from WD40, well because I’ve had good success keeping a quiet chain. I’m now trying to Muckoff dry lube and I’m excited to put each drop on in the correct place.
Hi josh i have a question, since the cross chaining is key why dont we put the chain in the small chainring in the back and front where the cross chaining is even better?
Used this strategy couple of years now..... didn't know about the capillary action thought. One day on my 12 speed ebike when putting the chain back after washing and cycling through gears I found that I could "see" the pin when the chain was leaving the biggest cog and i thought to myself - "I think this is the best place to put a drop of lubricant". So I did and I've been very happy with the performance...
I swear this is how I apply it since my first time without anyone showing me how to do it actually thinking exactly about what you have explained although not as in-depth. I was actually pushing the chain with the finger a bit to bend it whilst as I spin the cranks backwards and slowly pump
I smell a tool in all of this. Something that looks like those Park Chain Cleaners that laterally articulates the chain and has a reservoir for lube? Hmmm.
Why do we apply lube to the top of the lower chain span? Argumentum ad antiquitatem...because we've always done it that way. I worked in a bike shop for many years and we always did it that way. Nobody even thought to question the technique. However, a vital piece of doing it right was to cycle through all movements of the drivetrain for a bit while the lube was still wet to ensure full penetration before allowing for dry time and removing any excess. We would also hold a shop towel beneath the application area to keep the floor clean. But drip through always seemed preferable to accumulating excess in the cogset, which is a bit more difficult to clean.
I definitely need to try this. Been using about a year on my road and gravel bike with great results but an application on my mtb as a supplement of being hot waxed only last about 15 miles before getting loud.
Good to know I actually go from the top on the back sprocket and to the front sprocket, I do let it sit for 24 hours which is perfect since I switch up walking and riding to work. Love the chain demo.
Great video and informative. I always lubed my chain from the top and not the bottom, and I never realized that it is more efficient lube the chain right before it enters/ touches the cassette.
I put it there too. Why: I need to drip down, so that limits it to applying it from above. so, that leaves 2 choices: above or below the chain stay. I chose below, because any spills drip on the floor, not on my bike. That's the only reason I have always done it that way. curious too see if it matters.
Answer: clean chain with dryed up Baby wetwipe, by rotating pedals backwards a while. Apply Dripon WAX by same rotation. Both on the inside AND the upside. Even on outside (inside is tricky). Now run chain backwards and take thumb and index finger pinching chain to spread the wax on all four sides!. Let dry for a few hours. Done!!
I love nerding out on drive train stuff and this got me excited. Now off to the garage to apply some Super Secret to the top of my chain as Josh detailed. Thanks again for the best info on the internet. Oh and your Gravel Pro mini pump is the very BEST by far of the 7 mini pumps I own.
All: What do you all think about lubing chains for tourers? Not “road riders?” Not racing “want to be’s”? Just people who ride 100 km/day. Over and over again? People that do not want to carry around a lubricant that they have to use every 100 km - or every day(!)? What would you recommend?
So simple, remove the chain and clean and dip it, having a second chain ready and dipped makes the chore of ‘on bike’ chain maintenance a breeze, plus you get to clean up and lube the removed chain at your convenience
Done it this way since i was a kid. Grandad told me to rest my hand against the spokes while back pedalling. Thought this was how everyone did it but turns out we was ahead of our time 😂
Doesn’t getting and distributing the lubricant on the cassette cogs go against the seemingly broad based practice to avoid lubricating the cassette cogs? Seems like a recent GCN Tech video chided viewers to avoid lubricating the cassette,
Hey Josh - when switching from oil based lubricants to a fresh new chain with wax based lubricants, is it necessary to also use Chain Stripper on the cassette and chainring to fully remove any old oil based lubricant residue or will a standard degreaser work fine for that?
Then to apply it right before the jockey wheel and pedal forward should do the same as applying it before the chain ring in backpedaling like Josh is demonstrating 🤷♂️
More chance for it to drip out that way than there is when applying it right before the cog since the cog will "pump" the wax, and then catch the overflow to help fill any dry spots in other links.
When you lowered the chain into that drop, it touched both side plate junctions and wicked up. Do we need to lay two narrow beads (left and right side plates) to get both sides lubed with minimal waste? If so, maybe a more needle-like cap would be a good idea. Also, am I right in thinking that running through the gears on the big ring cross-chains in both directions, thus pumping lube into first the even-numbered pins and then the odd-numbered? Or is just moving in one direction and then back to neutral all that's needed? Of course, dousing the chain renders everything but cost moot.
Good observation! Yes, applying the lube into the left and right gaps helps the lube wick into the chain better, and also leaves less deposit on the cogs, pulleys and chainring as compared to dripping lube in the center of the chain, on top of the rollers
And that's why I believe that chain oil is the way to go and not wax. Wax doesn't flow. It's static. Once it is displced by friction between two surfaces, it doesnt flow back like oil/liquid lube does. Apart from the fact that wiping a chain clean with a rag and some WD40 or gasoline and then applying a few drops of fresh oil to the chain is much quicker and easier than the chain waxing ceremony.
It doesn't matter where you apply the lube - from the inner side of the chain before the cranks cog, or from the outer side before the casette. The final result after several pedal revolutions is the same.
@@SILCAVelo This is valid for any lubricant (oil or wax based), because their penetration is governed by the capillary forces, which, in our case (chain and environment are constant), depend on the surface tension, angle of contact (metal-drop-air), and the density of the lubricant. And all of them depend on temperature (in general higher temperature - lower angle of contact (better wetting), lower surface tension, lower density). Because the capillary effect is proportional to the tension and contact angle and inversely to the density, any wet wax lube bottle dropped into the hot water for a minute or two would have a similar penetration effect. Just warm up the wax lube before applying. No magic, just science.
Should we wax e-bike chains for the longevity of the components? What would be the re-wax interval, assuming using melted wax with topping up via drip wax?
Well the pumping action on the cogs is of course different to the one that you've shown us, when looking at the chain on the table. When you have the chain laying on the post-it, on the table, the lubricant doesn't really have any other way to go but upwards, in between the elements of the chain. But if the post-it and the table were not supporting the lubricant drop from below through the whole process, the pump action of the chain elements would have a completely different outcome.
You should try it.. you can put a drop of lube on the roller right before it hits the cog.. it will sit there slowly beginning to wick into the roller and as soon as it articulates laterally, the whole thing pretty much disappears into the roller like a little magic trick. Doing it this way for demonstration was to allow you to see both the wicking and the pumping effect and also show that the pumping is good enough to overcome gravity, so applying it on top and pumping you even have gravity working in your favor.
@@SILCAVelo don't get me wrong, I didn't say it doesn't work at all, just that the demo represents a different scenario compared to having the chain on the cogs. anyhow, I appreciate your efforts and content! cheers!
Being poor and cheap, I always lubricated my chains right over the cog so that any excess was drip down on the rear cogs. I guess I just need to shift it just a bit more only. Thanks!
What am to do on my eMTB with a freehub in the motor that makes it so I cannot backpedal the chain using the cranks? Should I just rotate the tire backwards instead? Also of note is that the eMTB is heavy and putting on a stand to do the drip wax is a pain, so I tend to put them upside down and drip it on at the bottom (now on top) derailleur pulley. Using the pulley does help keep the lube from all just running through and if you run it fast, most of the lube stays on until it hits other cogs (cassette, pulley, and chainring).
I think you've got the right idea putting it on right before the chain touches the tension pulley of the derailleur. That gets you a lateral articulation point plus all of the vertical drip path that keeps it on the chain as it's going through the derailleur, plus the contact with the cassette cog and another lateral articulation as it leaves the cassette. Essentially the reverse path of what Josh suggests. For my e-commuter, I put down the kickstand and lean the bike to the left against a wall. This lifts the rear wheel off the ground and allows me to pedal forward. Josh, what do you think would be the best lube point for my method?
I'm using waxed chains with a Rohloff internal hub shifter - so no cross-chaining, no "pump" effect. Should I be rocking the chain laterally to simulate that effect? Does it matter where I apply the lube?
Luck has it that I used this method without knowing the science behind it :-) sometimes I run the chain through my fingers (at the bottom) twisting the chain to form a S, having a hunch that this would improve the distribution of the wax.
Applying lube on top of lower chain hang has originated from teams mechanics who had no time to lube each pin so they backpedaled chain and dripped lube all over chain. This way less lube ends up on outer surface of chain so it's less prone to attract dirt. Sure excess lube is wiped off but this is just an explanation of thought behind sequence. Is it time savinging? No, because after wiping off excess lube from chain also cassette and chainwheel should be cleaned.
Tl;Dr: shift to big-big, backpedal, apply one drop wax lube to each roller right before it engages a cassette tooth. Then shift through the gears once or twice before letting the chain sit to dry. Ideally 12-24 hours. Watch the other 14:50 if you want to know "why" in addition to the "how".
Josh's teachers gave the rest of his peers a minimum page count for all writing assignments. For Josh they had to give a maximum page count.
I love it
Wow I always thought it was a 4 hour cure!
As a teacher with an impulse to overexplain and overshare, I empathize with him haha. Thanks for the TLDR
When do you wipe the chain down before or after drying?
Omfg...
Youve converted me to a silca wax man just purely from the fact you educate. So over being "marketed" to. Explain it to me so I can make an informed decision! Thank you Josh.
I have been a professional mechanic for almost 40 years, learned something new today. Thanks!
Only Josh could put 15 minutes to 'how to apply chain lube' and prove to you it was worth it. 😄
Nailed it! 🤣 💯
After every ride i dismantle every link of my chain, slow cook, individually lube, reassemble and in 6 weeks time ready for my next bike ride.
Cool ! How many rides do you end up going on in a year ? Mmmm lesee . . . 52 weeks in a year divided by 6 . . . roughly 8.6 rides a year that is IF you don't have winter conditions to contend with that will kill a ride or two . . . ideal to get in shape for the next Tour de France, right? LOL Kudos on the irony ! You could always switch over to roller blading . . .only EIGHT or so wheels to dismantle on those beauties :-) Cheers!
@@davidbee8178 my post rain chain maintenance procedure is so long it’s winter again by the time the chain is ready for its next outing.
@@JRmntain LOL . . . good one . . . hey you gotta look on the bright side right? - Gives you time to recuperate from your last ride and to load up on carbs for your next one :-)
@@JRmntain I follow the same procedure and run 52 chains, rotating them through the maintenance steps. This makes sure I have the lowest friction physically possible for my once a week uber extreme 30 mile Sunday group ride at avg 15mph.
@@emc3065 Why stop there? How about a different chain for each ride for an entire year? lf you ride every other day, you'll only need 158 chains, which could easily last for many years without any measurable wear. They could probably design a special contaminant free track in the courtyard of the nuthouse where you'll be living to further decrease friction due particle induced chain wear. l plan to discuss this genius idea with my psychiatrist during our next session.
Interesting video. However, in our shop, we have demostrated that with the chain in the smallest chainring/smallest cog that application of lubricant drop by drop to the lower chain (between chainring and pulley wheel) once around and then working then pedaling the chain backward about 20 times allowed for excellent penetration. We did this by coloring the lubricant yellow, applying, working the chain backward and finally wiping off the excess. We then disassembled the chain and found excellent penetration around pins and bushings. We looked at several dry lubricant such as Finish Line Dry and few more as well as several wet lubricants. We did not look at Silca lubricant or wax lubricants. I think the method of coloring the lubricant and disassembly of the chain gives good proof of penetration and you may want to consider this technique in addition to your observations before recommending your method as the best for all chain lubricants.
We have also shown that placing chain lubricant - at the cassette - can result in contaimination onto the cassette cogs and derailleur and would caution viewers that contaimination of rotors and brake pads can occur if one is not extremely careful.
These are just our observations for what it's worth.
Pretty much what I've done for decades now though I don't bother with what cog or chainring the chain is actually in-contact with. Capillary attraction (with oil at least) is an amazing thing. If you drip the lube into the area of the side plate/roller interface it finds its way into the chain amazingly well after "backpedaling" few times before you wipe off any excess by running the chain through a clean rag. This isn't "rocket surgery" IMHO.
@@larryt.atcycleitalia5786 Totally agree. Thanks larryt.
Thank you.
What was your control or method of comparison?
"We did not look at Silca lubricant or wax lubricants."
Improving penetration of wax/water emulsions is the entire point of Josh's clip, though.
Yes to Science! Yes to Josh!
I have been lubing chain like this for a long time. I am happy Josh proved me right.
Same
No summer school for you fella
It's really cool and helpful to actually _see_ how it works. That close up of the lube getting pulled in via capillary action and then pumped through was great! Also nice that the super secret is white, that really helps show it happen. Thanks for recording this video (and making the lube ;P) 🙌🏾
Awesome video Josh we have started selling your product in your shop and absolutely loving it , I’ve also been sending a lot of our customers to your channel to get educated! Thanks and keep them coming
Thank You. Scientific explanation with illustrations. That's what I like. No corporate BS.
As soon as Josh said where to put the lube I was like, "Oh duh, that does make sense. I can see how that'd work really well."
Then he demonstrated it under the microscope and it still blew my mind with how well it worked.
Josh, this video is clear evidence why you (and Silca) are the best, no doubt
That's where I always applied lube for decades and when I switched to wax, I switched to the bottom because of your video. I love that you did the work though and corrected your information. Back to the place I've always done it. BTW, love the secret/super secret combination.
Josh, you are one of the really good guys in cycling! I always enjoy your content, and it is always very well thought out, thank you Sir excellent video!
Fascinating to see the lube drawn up into the links BEFORE you even started moving it! Now I gotta go lube my chain again - with Super Secret of course!
Always used that spot but just from observation how much ended up on the ground…..and you can use a spoke to stabilise your hand
Brilliant. Well done. Love these functional details, very helpful!
You had me at lateral articulation of the chain.
Very nice, Josh! A solid contribution of useful, practical knowledge for routine bike maintenance. Loved it! So few cyclists understand what's going on w/chains. This really adds a nice refinement to the knowledge base. Keep on, bro! Also, appreciate your humility regarding the past advice and why it was given. Admitting a mistake is a great credibility builder. Keep on with that, too!
been riding for 30+ years as an adult and have tried everything and every method and I just learned something new, great video.
No marketing bs here, just a guy talking about his awesome product ❤
I’ve been tweaking and fussing with my drive train for years trying to get the noise down. My first application of Silca Super Secret and POOF! The noise is gone. Riding is such a joy with this stuff.
Thanks for the close-up video. A convincing demonstration.
Why not have a little tray about 2 cm in length that you fill with lube. You put that underneath the chain and you pull lightly outwards while you spin the cranks. The chain deflects a little while it runs through the tray, soaking up the lube.
I was genuinely excited to see that capillary action as you bent the chain back and forth. :D
Back on the synergetic. Wax is great but I've noticed a fewer rusty patches on the outer plates.
Since I switched to chain wax, I applied it on the bottom side of the chain (where the front derailleur is, this I did so already with oil-based chain lube when I started cycling over 30 years ago), hold a several times folded good quality kitchen cloth (it does not dissolve in a washing machine when by accident left in a pocket) below it, and then put the wax very generous on the chain, and then I twist the chain and also bend it a little bit. After about 40 links, the kitchen cloth itself as absorbed a certain amount of wax, so I can also wrap it around the chain and can create a kind of "wax bath". When all links are waxed, I do a second run,wrap the chain on the length of about 10 links and squeeze the cloth a little bit. When the drivetrain gets noisy, I know its time to rewax (after about 200km/125mi).
I've started recently to lightly tap on my pedals frequently when applying my lube. When chain engages and disengages a few times it helps with caplilary action to get lube insode rollers
I have two questions.
1. I put on a nitrile glove and massage the excess lube into the rollers. Good idea or not?
2. There is still quite a bit of excess wax on the exterior of the chain so once the chain is dried, I sometimes hit it very quickly with a heat gun. I can see the wax turn from solid to liquid and it appears to soak into the rollers. Is this helping or hurting?
I put my bike out in the sun for like half an hour before lubing the chain. I think the lube flows better on warm chain
Can this technique be used to supplement a chain that has been waxed and not stripped?
Josh makes it really hard to argue with using his products. I can say, this wax does last the longest, has the least sound, and has helped all my chains last so long. I just checked a chain with a digital gauge after 2000km, and I couldn't even get my gauge to read 0.01. I have replaced cogs sizes, replaced chainring sizes, or crashed my bikes before replacing my chain. I had one with about 8000k on it and I had 0.16 wear, so around 25% use, as I generally switch around 0.6.
? So are putting a drip on each joint ?
? You are back peddling also correct ?
A brief video clip of the correct process would dispel the incorrect processes…
That was masterful. Simple, yet genius. A *Big Thanks* to you Josh!
I've never done that before! On my former teams I followed the advice of our mechanics by applying a single drop on top of each pin-roller interface all the way round, then ran entire the gears through top to bottom on inner and outer chainrings 2-3 times (just to create that super-light initial coating), but never at that precise location you've so cleverly demonstrated :-)
Very nice Josh!
I liked that you questioned, about common assumptions, and get to the bottom of things!
Great video, beautifully articulated, and like all the best ideas it seems so obvious afterwards ! Thanks Josh
What happens to the drip wax on the chain when you go to re-hot melt the chain? Does it exit the chain when melted in the pot, but then after X# times, change the make-up of, or "contaminate" the hot wax to be reused in the future (since you do not clean a drip wax chain before hot melting)?
EXCELLENT EXPLANATION OF GREAT VALUE TO ALL ENTHUSIASTS! This is the best and most plausible explanation I have ever seen. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
What an awesome video. Normally I would just skip to the the to see what the “answer” is, but this was super interesting. Thanks for showing under the microscope, that was awesome.
So it does need to be cross chained for this method to work?
Loved the description of the chain coating “hates water loves oil”…..I thought it was more descriptive of the customer base I deal with …..filthy bikes and chains like a sump tray.
Super needy video. Fascinating - I loved it!
Thank you so much for validating how I have applied chain lube over the last three decades! I learned this from my Dad at Parker Bikes in the late 1980s. This really does answer the question "Why".
Now I have a great view of what is going on every time I hang my chain from my home made coat hanger hook to clean my chain and lubricate it. I always would "twist" the chain as I lubed it because it just looked like it was getting better coverage. Now I know for sure. Good job.
Thank you Josh. I generally clean my chain using the Park Too chain scrubber and Simple Green after 1-2 rides. I’ve been using dry lube spray from WD40, well because I’ve had good success keeping a quiet chain. I’m now trying to Muckoff dry lube and I’m excited to put each drop on in the correct place.
Hi josh i have a question, since the cross chaining is key why dont we put the chain in the small chainring in the back and front where the cross chaining is even better?
Used this strategy couple of years now..... didn't know about the capillary action thought.
One day on my 12 speed ebike when putting the chain back after washing and cycling through gears I found that I could "see" the pin when the chain was leaving the biggest cog and i thought to myself - "I think this is the best place to put a drop of lubricant". So I did and I've been very happy with the performance...
Great explanation. If I’m only ever going to use super secret, should I start by stripping the factory coating off a new chain?
lol
Brilliant! No more drop cloth under the bike when I lube and regrets from all that wasted lube. And one more reason to buy Silca.
I swear this is how I apply it since my first time without anyone showing me how to do it actually thinking exactly about what you have explained although not as in-depth.
I was actually pushing the chain with the finger a bit to bend it whilst as I spin the cranks backwards and slowly pump
I use Boeshield spray. It cleans, penetrates and lubes. It doesn't attract dirt. I hated having to clean of old, dirty wax.
I smell a tool in all of this. Something that looks like those Park Chain Cleaners that laterally articulates the chain and has a reservoir for lube? Hmmm.
Sorry next time could you do a video with a little more detail? I have no idea what speed or torque to apply to the chain while rotating the chain
I was stuck for wax went to decathlon bought their wax lube - cheaper and doesn’t drip nearly as much, just as quiet and lasts longer.
Why do we apply lube to the top of the lower chain span? Argumentum ad antiquitatem...because we've always done it that way.
I worked in a bike shop for many years and we always did it that way. Nobody even thought to question the technique. However, a vital piece of doing it right was to cycle through all movements of the drivetrain for a bit while the lube was still wet to ensure full penetration before allowing for dry time and removing any excess. We would also hold a shop towel beneath the application area to keep the floor clean. But drip through always seemed preferable to accumulating excess in the cogset, which is a bit more difficult to clean.
9:30 woah
I apply up close to the cassette and then I apply right by the chain ring too right afterwards. It really seems to work good that way.
It's one thing for folks to say "Yeah yeah, THIS is the best method!" - but it's another thing to actually SEE the effects. Mind = blown! 😲
I freeze my wax based lube, perfect drop with ease. Melts in perfectly, just shake and freeze works for me. All The Best!
Another great video from Silca! As a cyclist & vintage vanner id love to order that t-shirt!!
I definitely need to try this. Been using about a year on my road and gravel bike with great results but an application on my mtb as a supplement of being hot waxed only last about 15 miles before getting loud.
What I like about this - he spoke of other wax lubes. Didn't bash them, referred to them as high end.
Good to know
I actually go from the top on the back sprocket and to the front sprocket, I do let it sit for 24 hours which is perfect since I switch up walking and riding to work.
Love the chain demo.
Great video and informative. I always lubed my chain from the top and not the bottom, and I never realized that it is more efficient lube the chain right before it enters/ touches the cassette.
My one and only chain lube and has now completely changed how I reapply. Thank you SO much! Have shared everywhere!
I put it there too. Why: I need to drip down, so that limits it to applying it from above. so, that leaves 2 choices: above or below the chain stay. I chose below, because any spills drip on the floor, not on my bike. That's the only reason I have always done it that way. curious too see if it matters.
Answer: clean chain with dryed up Baby wetwipe, by rotating pedals backwards a while.
Apply Dripon WAX by same rotation. Both on the inside AND the upside. Even on outside (inside is tricky).
Now run chain backwards and take thumb and index finger pinching chain to spread the wax on all four sides!.
Let dry for a few hours. Done!!
You’ve changed the way I will lube my chain in the future! Thanks!
Do you wipe off the excess before letting it dry?
I love nerding out on drive train stuff and this got me excited. Now off to the garage to apply some Super Secret to the top of my chain as Josh detailed. Thanks again for the best info on the internet. Oh and your Gravel Pro mini pump is the very BEST by far of the 7 mini pumps I own.
All: What do you all think about lubing chains for tourers? Not “road riders?” Not racing “want to be’s”? Just people who ride 100 km/day. Over and over again? People that do not want to carry around a lubricant that they have to use every 100 km - or every day(!)?
What would you recommend?
Aces.
Fantastic thought process.
Love that you give credit to other companies.
I’m sold.
Silca in the basket! 👌
Away to buy some!
So simple, remove the chain and clean and dip it, having a second chain ready and dipped makes the chore of ‘on bike’ chain maintenance a breeze, plus you get to clean up and lube the removed chain at your convenience
I finally figured it out. It's as though Quentin Tarantino owned a bike company.
Done it this way since i was a kid. Grandad told me to rest my hand against the spokes while back pedalling. Thought this was how everyone did it but turns out we was ahead of our time 😂
Thanks Josh for this video. I have an e-bike that I cannot back pedal. Do I then apply prior to the derailleur? What do you recommend?
Thank you for clearing this up as I have always hated the excess lube that would fling off the chain and all over me and the bike.
Very informative, J...TY...my Q for U...how do i keep my rear der pulleys from collecting gunk??
Doesn’t getting and distributing the lubricant on the cassette cogs go against the seemingly broad based practice to avoid lubricating the cassette cogs? Seems like a recent GCN Tech video chided viewers to avoid lubricating the cassette,
Dumping a bunch of conventional wet lube all of the cassette is a bad idea (it just makes a mess), but transferring a bit of drip wax is a good thing.
Hey Josh - when switching from oil based lubricants to a fresh new chain with wax based lubricants, is it necessary to also use Chain Stripper on the cassette and chainring to fully remove any old oil based lubricant residue or will a standard degreaser work fine for that?
I have not had a chain driven bike for years now. Belt and Pinion gear set is the only way to go.
Then to apply it right before the jockey wheel and pedal forward should do the same as applying it before the chain ring in backpedaling like Josh is demonstrating 🤷♂️
More chance for it to drip out that way than there is when applying it right before the cog since the cog will "pump" the wax, and then catch the overflow to help fill any dry spots in other links.
When you lowered the chain into that drop, it touched both side plate junctions and wicked up. Do we need to lay two narrow beads (left and right side plates) to get both sides lubed with minimal waste? If so, maybe a more needle-like cap would be a good idea. Also, am I right in thinking that running through the gears on the big ring cross-chains in both directions, thus pumping lube into first the even-numbered pins and then the odd-numbered? Or is just moving in one direction and then back to neutral all that's needed? Of course, dousing the chain renders everything but cost moot.
Good observation! Yes, applying the lube into the left and right gaps helps the lube wick into the chain better, and also leaves less deposit on the cogs, pulleys and chainring as compared to dripping lube in the center of the chain, on top of the rollers
The whole video can be summarized here 13:31 in 10 seconds.
Great video! But what about single speed or internal gear? I am using Synerg-E on my Bullitt Cargo bike and care about my drive train
Id like to see a comparison with other lubes for the "pump" test ... seems like just simply placing a small amount on the link is drawn in on its own
But which cog does science say is the best to put lube on?
Cross-chain is best. Big cog in the back, big ring in the front.
@@SnaxNoCo Why wouldn't big ring to big cog be better? It's bending the chain line even more than little ring to big cog.
@@Atlanta_Cyclist Thanks for catching that. Fingers faster than brain. Corrected!
And that's why I believe that chain oil is the way to go and not wax. Wax doesn't flow. It's static. Once it is displced by friction between two surfaces, it doesnt flow back like oil/liquid lube does. Apart from the fact that wiping a chain clean with a rag and some WD40 or gasoline and then applying a few drops of fresh oil to the chain is much quicker and easier than the chain waxing ceremony.
It doesn't matter where you apply the lube - from the inner side of the chain before the cranks cog, or from the outer side before the casette. The final result after several pedal revolutions is the same.
This is true for oil based lubricants, yes.
@@SILCAVelo This is valid for any lubricant (oil or wax based), because their penetration is governed by the capillary forces, which, in our case (chain and environment are constant), depend on the surface tension, angle of contact (metal-drop-air), and the density of the lubricant. And all of them depend on temperature (in general higher temperature - lower angle of contact (better wetting), lower surface tension, lower density). Because the capillary effect is proportional to the tension and contact angle and inversely to the density, any wet wax lube bottle dropped into the hot water for a minute or two would have a similar penetration effect. Just warm up the wax lube before applying. No magic, just science.
This is pure genius.
I always applied on the top of the bottom run of chain because when you spin the drivetrain it will move outward due to centrifugal force
Should we wax e-bike chains for the longevity of the components? What would be the re-wax interval, assuming using melted wax with topping up via drip wax?
Well the pumping action on the cogs is of course different to the one that you've shown us, when looking at the chain on the table. When you have the chain laying on the post-it, on the table, the lubricant doesn't really have any other way to go but upwards, in between the elements of the chain.
But if the post-it and the table were not supporting the lubricant drop from below through the whole process, the pump action of the chain elements would have a completely different outcome.
You should try it.. you can put a drop of lube on the roller right before it hits the cog.. it will sit there slowly beginning to wick into the roller and as soon as it articulates laterally, the whole thing pretty much disappears into the roller like a little magic trick. Doing it this way for demonstration was to allow you to see both the wicking and the pumping effect and also show that the pumping is good enough to overcome gravity, so applying it on top and pumping you even have gravity working in your favor.
@@SILCAVelo don't get me wrong, I didn't say it doesn't work at all, just that the demo represents a different scenario compared to having the chain on the cogs.
anyhow, I appreciate your efforts and content! cheers!
Being poor and cheap, I always lubricated my chains right over the cog so that any excess was drip down on the rear cogs. I guess I just need to shift it just a bit more only. Thanks!
What am to do on my eMTB with a freehub in the motor that makes it so I cannot backpedal the chain using the cranks? Should I just rotate the tire backwards instead? Also of note is that the eMTB is heavy and putting on a stand to do the drip wax is a pain, so I tend to put them upside down and drip it on at the bottom (now on top) derailleur pulley. Using the pulley does help keep the lube from all just running through and if you run it fast, most of the lube stays on until it hits other cogs (cassette, pulley, and chainring).
I think you've got the right idea putting it on right before the chain touches the tension pulley of the derailleur. That gets you a lateral articulation point plus all of the vertical drip path that keeps it on the chain as it's going through the derailleur, plus the contact with the cassette cog and another lateral articulation as it leaves the cassette. Essentially the reverse path of what Josh suggests.
For my e-commuter, I put down the kickstand and lean the bike to the left against a wall. This lifts the rear wheel off the ground and allows me to pedal forward. Josh, what do you think would be the best lube point for my method?
Great information. What do you think about using an applicator tip like the Ryder Luberetta on the bottle?
Those sorts of things can help with drip accuracy, but do nothing to help with penetration of the lube.
I'm using waxed chains with a Rohloff internal hub shifter - so no cross-chaining, no "pump" effect. Should I be rocking the chain laterally to simulate that effect? Does it matter where I apply the lube?
Luck has it that I used this method without knowing the science behind it :-) sometimes I run the chain through my fingers (at the bottom) twisting the chain to form a S, having a hunch that this would improve the distribution of the wax.
Nice video, but what do I do with my single speed? 😅
Applying lube on top of lower chain hang has originated from teams mechanics who had no time to lube each pin so they backpedaled chain and dripped lube all over chain. This way less lube ends up on outer surface of chain so it's less prone to attract dirt. Sure excess lube is wiped off but this is just an explanation of thought behind sequence.
Is it time savinging? No, because after wiping off excess lube from chain also cassette and chainwheel should be cleaned.