I went from Candada to Florida on a bicycle on a waxed chain, through numerous thunderstorms that lasted 8 hours+ of cycling in squalls of water. It was about 1500 miles. Every night I just dried it and applied the drip wax ( i did a melt before i left). Despite literal days of riding in the rain and off road dirt and gunk, my chain didn't even wear to the first wear indicator on the chain checker.
Hey josh great vid - just quick clarifications for all regarding the Single Application Longevity testing and data as that data table is a bit finnicky re understanding. First know that in the dry road test - without any contamination addition to accelerate wear / simulate other conditions - kms on a machine are not like kms pedaled. Machine kms are very smooth unlike the very large peak power phases of pedaling, and so km's attained on machine are much higher than would be expected in real world cycling. So the first column is the raw data of how many kms to the test allowance which for S.A.L is 20% of a chains wear allowance mark of 0.5% (so 0.1% elongation wear). This figure is then divided by 3 in an attempt to relate the kms to something remotely realistic / possible in real world riding. However - note that in general you do not want to ride a lubrication application to the point where by the time you re lube, you have used 20% of your chains wear allowance. Ideally you want to re lube at a point where your chain wear for that application is as close to 0% wear as possible. Hence in general the key figure / column to use is the adjusted kms to "jump point". The jump point is where we see there is a clear jump in the wear measure on the wear check intervals, as this is really what denotes the lubricant treatment as being effectively done. Ie - a wear check might show 1% wear of the 20% wear allowance. next check another 1%. Next check another 1%, and this continues for awhile, but then on a check measure we see say 6%. And the next check is also 6%. So the point at which the wear measures went from 1% to 6% would denote when the lubricant treatment started to give out - and that is the most accurate point to call the treatment longevity - The jump point. And again to relate to something real world - ish - the jump point km's divided by 3 - so the most far right column - that is the column to use, not the far left column which is the raw kms to the 0.1% chain elongation wear allowance. **Wear per interval and jump point - this behavior can vary a bit by lubricant type. Stereotypically with many wax lubricants and immersive waxes - there is a very clear jump point. There will typically be zero or close to zero wear per interval check, until suddenly when the wax layer is effectively done - a large jump in a check wear measure, and then it is not long until test wear allowance reached. However for some of the top wet lubricants - they may not display a jump point until reach wear allowance - just continue to show very small amount of wear per interval until the wear allowance is reached. So in the latter there will be no difference between total and related km figures vs jump point figures. Whereas for many waxes there is a clear difference between jump point figures (which is the true mark of when the treatment gave out) vs total km's to wear mark. Further detail explaining the S.A.L testing is on the top of the spreadsheet for the S.A.L test data. Thanks!
There's a thread somewhere here where a guy (@IlPinnacolo) wants to know why the chain needs to be stripped or prepped before dunking it into wax. He's not satisfied with the explanation that it helps with adhesion. Can you throw some science into the conversation?
Absoluteblack just released some bonkers longevity testing results for their graphenlube. I said they had to supply third party testing. Then they went crazy. Like you would expect 😂
@@SnaxNoCo Ha that is funny (to me). Scientifically i cant really help him, but logically it should be pretty simple. If i wanted to stick some sticky tape to a surface, and that surface was oiled or greased - i would have a tough time. An IM wax is a solid lubricant. So we want that solid to be bonded to chain metal. Then after break in, the solid wax coating is what is covering all part of the chain. It doesn't do that very well if there is oil / grease there, you wont have a fast solid wax coating, you just have a mess of wax and grease. There are deeper levels re science on pretty much anything if one really wants to on a topic - im just not sure in this case if the juice is worth the squeeze re time and effort for science and chemistry hunt vs just well that seems logical. Ie i am sure i fell off a building strapped to a large anvil vs if i fell off a building strapped to a huge helium balloon - i am going to fall faster with the anvil. A whole lotta math could be done to calc my impact speed with the anvil vs the balloon, or i could go you know what - i will go with the balloon thanks, it is just logical thats going to clearly be a better outcome for me. If i asked for the person giving me that option for the math before making a decision on which option to go with, i reckon they would give me funny ol look.
@@zerofrictioncycling992 He makes the argument that both wax and oil are hydrocarbons, so once they are heated together, they should basically blend--so how could the oil prevent adhesion? It's not like we're sticking hard wax on a cold oiled surface--so the sticky tape analogy doesn't really apply.
@@Eirikkinserdal ha yes if you have that send it to me! AB are (in my opinion) really, really poor re any questions / criticism / feedback. Which with the mega claims they come out with on ANYTHING - being uber defensive and combative against any questions on said mega claims - to me it is just not a great way of operating. I do not understand how they have not yet twigged to how many customers / potential customers they turn away by acting like they do.
Wife and I rode Canada to Mexico on GDMBR in 2018. We had immersion waxed chains, I didn’t do any adds, rinsed water a few times, put on new immersion waxed chains in CO. I’ve noticed my wax jobs/ chains lasting longer in recent years because I’ve gotten more thorough at cleaning factory petroleum goo before immersion waxing. I really struggle to understand how anyone still argues that waxing is too time consuming. Whatever extra time I spend up front getting chain prepped and immersed I get back many times over in fast, simple cleaning of bike. I do not own a cassette brush - I never have any crud on my drivetrain that doesn’t blow off with a common garden hose.
In the last 40 yrs of riding (now 64) I've found the single biggest contributor to chain longevity has been my massive reduction in max power output. From over 1800w/3 secs to about 800.😁
Love Josh's videos and also his appearances on other channels. Always information rich. Always very educational. I'm a big Silca fan and use several products. Also have their Matone seat bag and Gravelero tire pump. Very happy with all of it.
Started using synergetic on my steel road bike, which panniers and mudguards, which I commute to work in on daily in London. I ride all weathers, don’t care about fractional watt savings I’d get from waxing and want to quickly clean and apply the lube. synergetic has proved to be an excellent lube, and isn’t washed off when I’m caught in downpours. It lasts so long.
I started waxing the "summer" bike a while ago and love it, however was hesitant to wax the winter / bikepacking bike. Went with the Synergetic for the winter bike, only been on a couple of rides so far but happy out so far.
"Adam's talked quite extensively" might be the understatement of the year! Thanks for this, it's refreshing NOT to see another "Waxing is best! If you're not waxing, you're a fool" type diatribe. It's clear all these products are trade-offs of one sort or another and what works great for one might be so great for another.
Larry it is great to see a comment from you that is not completely off a deep end :). Nowhere from me, or silca is it ever put across that if you are not waxing you are a fool. Simply the benefits one gets from IM waxing are clearly explained so that one can make an informed decision re if making what is often a big change for someone from just dripping something on - if that is right for them or if they should stay with drip lubricants, and if the answer is stay with drip - then what is the right drip lubricant - ie if one is riding road - then the top wet lubricants can be a great choice for many, however if one is riding offroad - the vastly superior contamination resistance of wax emulsion drip lubricants will be much better suited. So we step people through options, and simply when explaining IM waxing the inherent advantages of IM waxing are covered. No one else i know of, and i have been doing this awhile, has ever reported the "if you dont wax you are a fool" perception. It is an option. An extremely good option, but an option. which ZFC and silca and others have covered along with all the other good to great options that come from a bottle. I have never understood why so triggered re IM wax content, but hopefully your comment above shows you might be calming down :)
@@zerofrictioncycling992" No one else i know of, and i have been doing this awhile, has ever reported the "if you dont wax you are a fool" perception. " Really? That's pretty much all I hear from the wax-cult, I'm amazed that you can deny this. But you can't even "take a win" here...continuing to go on and on (and on and on) about boiling your chain in wax. I understand that's your biz but maybe take a page out of Josh' book and back-off a bit on the wax evangelism? Just like Scientology, it's not for everyone!
Re-strip it to bare metal. You can heat the chain to melt most of the wax, use solvents (white spirit and gasoline work well) to clean it fully, and then you can rewax.
Great video once again. Josh, after using Synergetic on a waxed chain, what is the cleaning process required for that chain to go back to immersion wax?
I use liquid wax when it's going to be dry but go to Synergee for 9 months of the year. Riding in Washington state, I end up hosing off my bike after 70% of my rides. The the oil/anti corrosion is super important. Even on a SRAM XO drivetrain, I get surface rust if I use any sort of wax based lube. The I use synergee specifically for corrosion resistance.
I use Synergetic because I ride long distance bike tours and wax is a pain and doesn't work in the rain. I love synergetic. On the GDMBR last yr I only lubed my chain once a week (every 300 miles) and I rode in dirty/dusty terrain for two months.
Two quick questions: 1) Best chain product for Leadville, assuming single application? 2) Best chain product dry dusty San Diego MTB to reduce maintenance effort I use Secret chain wax with endurance chip for road
Call me crazy but I use military spec Break Free, Apply, drop by drop to each link, let it dry overnight and then wipe it off by running the chain backwards thru a rag. I read a white paper by the military and the more you use this product the better it can perform. My chain ARE lasting longer and are quiet.
A quick question. I have all three Silca products, secret chain hot wax, super secret wax liquid and synergetic oil. For winter, for my mule, who rides in the rain and sleeps covered but outside, I prefer Synergetic oil. But I was wondering if during the summer I could switch to a waxed chain (a new, freshly waxed chain, I might add) without having to de-grease the drive train?
Questions on using Synergetic during a ride on a hot waxed chain: How do I revert back to hot waxing? Do I just redip the chain in wax or do I need to deep clean it to pristine condition?
I bought a bag of the Silca Secret Chain wax and the Absolute Black 2.0 Graphene wax. I tried two of Muc-Offs ceramic dry lubes and couldn't believe how crap they were. Total dirt/sand magnets and waste of money. So far I've only used the AB Graphene wax and will NOT be switching back to any wet lube any time soon. Interesting notes on the Silca Secret to the AB Graphene. I'm going to dip my other chain in the Silca and try them back to back after fully degreasing.
I’m interested in switching my mountain bike chain to waxed (dry & dusty SoCal conditions). But, I’m not interested in regularly doing the hot waxing work. How much mileage/hours does a wax lube give to a hot waxed chain?
Hey Josh, I'm taking a bike that has been lubed with SuperSecret Wax Lube for outdoor use and moving it indoor to the trainer. Will a simple degrease and application of Synerg-E work or do I need to fully strip the chain like it's new? And the inverse for switching back outdoors in the spring.
Hey Josh, for an e-cargo bike with a mid drive motor (power into the chain), I know that synerg-e is the pick for it, but I'm curious as to how well hot melt would do in thst application? My thinking is that it perhaps wouldn't last so long just due ot the massive torque that the motor puts out into the wax?
Josh, I’ve started waxing with your products. I added the endurance chip to my first melting. My question is, if I wanted to strip a chain do I add the strip chip to the current wax/endurance chip mixture? Or do I need to clean the heat cup of all the current wax mix and start new with strip chip? This question also goes for adding the speed chip, what is the protocol for mixing, matching wax, chips, strip chip? Thanks, Don
To clean / degrease the chain after use with wet lube do you need to carryout a full degrease i.e. use chain cleaner / bath tool or just spray and wipe down and re-apply lube? Most wet oil based lubes need a deep clean but havent came across what to do for the Silca wet lube.
I have consistently found that Supersecret Chain wax does not last well on my gravel bike chain in dusty long rides. It was a new chain, waxed with strip chip. I clean with hot water, rewax, ride and then apply Super Secret Chain lube to top off the wax. Again this weekend, I was about 80 miles into a 130 mile gravel race and my chain just started grinding. Had to beg chain lube at an aid station to finish. Suggestions?
As someone who wasn't convinced by wax for bikepacking, and converted back to wet lube - if you're suggesting an initial hot wax and then lubing the chain, how would you then clean the chain to rewax? Degreaser? Boiling? Stripper?
I have been using your wax this season, great performance. My concern is that dirt and grit will get suspended in the wax and carried into the chain and wear the pins and rollers. How can I tell when it is time to replace the wax in the pot and how do I do it? Thanks.
Are you dropping your used chain straight into the pot for re-waxing without cleaning first? Just some boiling water should do the trick as it melts the wax on the chain and will take the grit with it.
In general, wiping your chain with a microfiber cloth before waxing will remove most of the dust and grit. But if your chain is really dirty, wipe it well with a cloth first, then swish it around in a pot of boiling water to flush away the remaining grit. Before re-waxing, dry the chain well by swinging it around to fling off most of the big drops before leaving it in the sun for a bit (best), or dry it was a hair dryer (slow but effective), or even just let it hang (remove as much water as possible first to reduce the risk of rust forming). As for changing the wax in the pot, you can just wait until most of the waxed is used up, and then pour off the remainder and wipe out the residue with some paper towels. But, depending on how dirty your chains are when you put them in the pot, the frequency of resetting the wax on the pot will vary, so it's possible that you can just add more wax instead of cleaning everything. While I don't think it's been tested anywhere, I suspect that a little grit in the wax may not be as bad as the same grit in wet lube because it won't form a grinding paste the same way. All of that said, the easiest way to maintain a waxed chain is to wipe it down before re-waxing, and then replace the wax in the pot when it's almost used up.
Hi Josh - Thanks for the informative video. I am running Super Secret on both my road and gravel bikes and have been happy with the performance. My question is about my mountain bike. I am considering changing over to wax, but am concerned as I live in Victoria, BC (which is similar to Seattle, Vancouver, etc) and winter is coming, i.e. I will be riding my MTB 2-3 days a week in wet, muddy conditions, then will be rinsing my bike off. Do you think that Synergetic would be better for winter and that I should wait until Spring & Summer to switch to wax?
I have vintage, hard-to-replace chainrings on two of my bikes and want to minimize chainring wear, including wear on the sides of the teeth. It's starting to look like the bike running Silca hot wax may be showing more wear on the sides of the chainring teeth (as if using excessive cross-chaining) vs oil or even dry lube. I speculate wax might not coat the aluminum, allowing the chain to cut into the aluminum teeth. I ride in dry road conditions, and prioritize high efficiency, low chainring wear, and relatively gunk-free operation. Which product would be best for my use case?
Sorry if this question is off topic but I was curious what the recommendation is for what one should do when your tire sprays sealant all over your waxed chain? Boil the chain? Pretend it never happened and continue to wax the chain as usual?
You would love one of the modern lubes.. WL is objectively one of the worst lubricants still on the market in terms of single application longevity, friction, and wear. SuperSecret, UFO, Rex Black Diamond or numerous others will net you a 6-7watt friction reduction, 3-4x increase in application longevity, and as much as a 10x reduction in drivetrain wear.
Synergetic is noticably smoother, quieter and much longer lasting than any drip lube ive ever used. Only annoying thing is how long it takes to apply because of the viscosity and nozzle. Using the Super Secret Drip wax now since im riding dust more but will switch back to Synergetic when the rain comes
Great video. Have a quick question. I have been using oil based lubricant for few months and wanted to try wax. Im kinda of new to cycling so I didnt want to try to remove chain. I used silca bio degreaser with bike wash to try to remove as much oil as I could. I was not able to remove all of it, still rubbing fingers around the chain would show some oil on fingers. Because I was not able to remove all of it but still wanted to use wax, I started putting 3x SILCA Super Secret Chain Lube. My question: Is it ok to put drip wax lube on the chain even if there is some of the old oil left?
Hi, I do use your hot wax and your fluid! For cleaning I do use your chaincleaner. How to prevent my cassette from rusting after washing? Thanks for support!
You said the additives in the synagetic make it last less time. Probebly over simplifying things but if I don’t shake the bottle before adding the lube will it last longer but be slower?
Wat if you clean your bike and put som water repellent spray on it. Like Muc-off bike protect. There always gonna be some on the chain. Do you need to degrease te chain again before applying Silca super secreet chain lube or synergetic?
At 8:07 we see the commuters . . . I can imagine that hot waxing KEEPS their chains SO clean - ergo CLOTHES don't get messy from an oiled chain (no matter HOW good the lubricant is :-) The Silca SS hot wax is amazing for my endurance bike's chain but I confess I don't ride in the rain - WAY too lazy to wash the thing down after a ride :-)
On a multi week bikepacking trip that has enough miles that you have to re-lube no matter what you are using and that could involve riding a whole day in the rain, what would you take?
Even the least expensive candle wax outperforms all "wet lube" products in wet weather (3:01 look at the ZeroFrictionCycling Block 4-wet contamination results). Silca Super Secret came in 3rd place among bottled wax drip lubes.
Synergetic. But, based on my experience on long bikepacking races, you may need a new chain and cassette after the event--depending on miles/day and trail composition (dirt, granite, etc.)
So does hot wax offer any corrosion resistance? I live in coastal Florida and have been waxing for a few months now. Starting to see some corrosion show up on my chain (that was and has been stripped and re-waxed multiple times).
I’m a huge fan of your wax and use on all my chains. It’s pretty dry in SoCal and seldom has my chains been exposed to wet muddy conditions. For me I don’t see the need for oil but since I will be traveling with my gravel bike to the Philippines and Vietnam. I will probably get a bottle before I go just to be prepared. I hope customs doesn’t think I’m smuggling anything lol.
Even the least expensive candle wax outperforms all "wet lube" products in wet weather (3:01 look at the ZeroFrictionCycling Block 4-wet contamination results). Food grade paraffin wax is on par with MSpeedWax Original Formula and widely available for about $10/kg
I have a hot melt waxed chain on my trainer, but I am interested in the longevity of the Synerg-E lube. Can I add Synerg-E directly over the top of the hot melt wax? or do I need a properly cleaned chain to start?
You can add SynergE over top of hot wax, it will wick into the inside of the chain and in time, combine with the wax. Subsequent applications will further thin the wax allowing it to run out to be wiped away after future re-lubrication. Just be sure to wipe before and after with micro-fiber cloth to remove any dirt, and then any excess lubricant on the outside of the chain.
Serious question. Can I wax my Leatherman Multitool??!! The tools swing in and out of the body, I would think that is similar to how the roller moves around the bushing. Thanks
Yes, SuperSecret Drip is amazing on knives and similar type tools, it's very satisfying to drip a little on and work the action and just feel the tool totally smooth out!!
How often would you suggest the cassette and front chainring should be cleaned when using your hot wax system? I've noticed on mine a layer of wax on the teeth after applications of the drip on between dips. Guessing this could help reduce friction or hold/capture dirt?
@@gmivisualsjason3729 Just to be clear... "Hot Wax" indicates immersive chain waxing and not wax drip lubes. If the molten wax in your immersion pot looks dirty then you haven't been pre-cleaning the chain in boiling water before immersing it in the molten wax. If your cassette sprockets look dirty then you haven't been wiping it dry after a wet ride.
I use hot wax and drip wax on my road, gravel and Mtb. Under normal dry conditions everything is good. On a recent 35 mile bike packing day trip with mostly dry conditions the wax held up well but after rinsing the bike the chain showed signs of surface rust the next morning. I’m interested in trying the oil over wax for bike packing. How clean/dirty does this make the drive system? Is it as messy as Triflow, etc?
Even the least expensive candle wax outperforms all "wet lube" products in wet weather (3:01 look at the ZeroFrictionCycling Block 4-wet contamination results). Silca Super Secret came in 3rd place among bottled wax drip lubes which placed higher than all oil drip lubes.
Oil over wax can be a useful way to extend the lubrication for a long ride when re-waxing isn't convenient or feasible. Alas, your drivetrain will be messier at the end than if you just used wet lube, because the wax flakes will add volume to the wet lube. But if you have time to wipe the chain a few times during the ride, it won't be as bad. Of course, you'll need to re-strip and clean your chain, cassette, and rings before going back to wax. So, not a terrible thing in the context of a big race, but not something that I would like to do on a frequent basis.
@@T.Mitcbree Not sure that I'd burn chain wax. While I believe that the additives are non-toxic, that might not be true if they are being burned and breathed...
Have you considered selling a version of Synergetic in a 6- or 12-pack of single use packets? I’m envisioning a small clear plastic monodose packet w/ a twist-off tear tab, similar to the little oil packets you get w/ a MTB suspension service kit. I think this would be useful for endurance racers or those who may want to store one in their seat pack for emergencies.
Pro tip: Buy a normal sized synergetic bottle and also get a small eye drop bottle (like people use for contact lenses). Filling up the small eye drop bottle is super easy and the application process on your chain works perfectly. Have used it on multi day races for a few years now.
I was gifted 5 bottles of synergetic but I am a religious waxer so don't know how I will ever use these. What's our thoughts on using Synergetic as a form of high end general purpose oil for lubricating cable lines and derailluer pivot points etc?
I don't like to lube cables at all. It just attracts dirt, which end up making them less slippery. Instead, I purchase high-quality housing and slick cables. But it does work fine for pivot points--just be sure to wipe off any excess that might attract grit.
For long events. like bikepacking I came up with this stragegy: have a 2 chains every day after ride, apply drip on wax, wait till morning until it's kinda evaporated, then change chain, and let your chain dry more over day while you're riding second chain, on evening drip on second chain... swtich at morning... repeat until end of event. Oh, I didn't tried it yet, but planning by end of the month on vacation.
You don’t have to clean your chain when you apply synergetic, drip 1 per link, backpedal the chain for 30 secs then wipe off, any you only have to do it every 300 miles at the shortest
Even the least expensive candle wax outperforms all "wet lube" products in wet weather (3:01 look at the ZeroFrictionCycling Block 4-wet contamination results). Silca Super Secret came in 3rd place among bottled wax drip lubes which placed higher than all oil drip lubes... Rewaxing intervals can likely exceed 400 km if you use a microfibre cloth to wipe your chain after every ride.
My chain has 53,000 orginal miles on it and I use "muckoff" every 300 to 400 miles - so after every 1 to 2 rides. It consistently gets worked in the rain, dust of dirt roads and loads up to 46 pounds foot of torque and see speeds up to 115 mph but generally is ran at 40 to 70 mph. About every 1,000 miles I spray it down with " krud cutter" then spray it with pressure washer, all while still on the bike, dry it off run it for 3 min on the stand and spray the chain on the top of the chain as it passes by on the return to the rear gear. If you haven't figured it out yet its a motorcycle BUT I also use the same stuff on my bicycles- I have 2 and my wife and boys have 1 a peice except my 6 year old, he has 3 bikes now. That 8 bikes! Out of all the things I have to do to keep 8 bikes going worn cassettes, rings or chains have never been an issue.
Just don't have the time nor am I willing to spend the money for waxing equipment. Despite my job being to sell bikes, I dot have much time to ride them, and in the hours it takes to remove and degrease my chain, liquify the wax, "cooking" the chain in it, letting it dry and re-apply my chain, I can ride my usual local route three times. Cleaning and oiling my chain takes only a few minutes and can be done pre-ride. Also hardly doubt that a waxed chain will make me ride any faster with less effort.
Degreasing a chain needs to be done just once--and Silca's chain prep or Strip Chip make that an easy task (10 minutes for stripper, ZERO minutes for Strip Chip). Liquifying the wax does take a bit, but I hope that you're not standing there watching it melt! I usually just turn the melter on, eat dinner or something, and then drop the chain in--so maybe 2 minutes of actual work? There's no "cooking" required; just drop it in, swish it around a few times, and then hang it to cool and harden. So, unless your ride is shorter than 5 minutes of total time, waxing is much faster than riding you "usual local route three times." On the other hand, cleaning a wet-lubed drivetrain is a total PITA.
Wax is best...IF you can maintain it yourself and do the right things regards owning/riding a bike with a waxed chain...BUT if you're depending on your local bike shop or local bike mechanic to tend to your waxed system then that may get tiresome/draining.
EMTB in dry and modestly dusty conditions. Does the standard Silca wax handle the high loads from full-fat emtbs well, or is there a better mix for dry conditions? Or use the Silca e-bike lube? Roughly how many hours of EMTB riding in dust will a hot wax application last? Thanks!
I love wax on my mountain bike! So much cleaner and easier to maintain than wet lube. Just wax a few chains at once, and then rotate through them as necessary. I've ridden 100 miles of Pike Peak granite, which is about as abrasive as it comes, without an issue. No problem with "high loads." If wax can handle the watts of a grand-tour sprinter, it can handle anything that I can throw at it.
Why bother with the cleaning step before waxing a new chain? Paraffin is a hydrocarbon, the oil on the chain should be soluble in the wax and negligibly change its composition. At high temps a lot of the lighter aromatics in the chain lube should evaporate out of the solution anyway. New to waxing so I'm genuinely curious.
Not all hydrocarbons are the same. Oil & grease keep the wax from properly adhering to the chain. But you can use Strip Chip to wax and degrease in the same step if you don't want to save some time and fuss.
@@SnaxNoCo What are you basing this claim on? P.s. if it is not soluble, then what happens when to the oil when it is heated to a high temp and the viscosity is low enough to flow out of the chain with some agitation? Surely there is a difference in S.G. which means it will either float to the top or sink to the bottom.
@@SnaxNoCo p.s. I dropped a brand new chain in high temp paraffin right after I wrote the first comment. All I did beforehand was wipe the exterior of the chain. Looks like the oil dissolved pretty readily.
@@IlPinnacolo It might seem like that, but it doesn't work that way. It's a good question. I'm sure that a chemist at Silca could provide a more thorough technical explanation, but I'm only capable of provided the executive summary. The bottom line is that chains need to be stripped or prepped using one of three options: various sequential solvent baths, Silca Chain Stripper, or Silca Strip Chip.
@@SnaxNoCo They have chemists on staff? Impressive. I'm looking at my pot of paraffin right now with a brand new chain in it. No oil bubbles. P.s. water and ethanol are very different yet totally miscible.
While I wax the chains on my outdoor bikes, I use a clean chain with Syner-G on my trainer. No mess--and it lasts a LONG time because there's no grit or dust. Just wipe it down for the first few rides, and you shouldn't get any mess at all.
Josh. You lost the plot when you tried to make a case for the big dropper tip vs the needle tip. Just be honest, the new tip means more use of the product and you sell more lube. The needle tip is fantastic. More lube is not necessary except to pad the bottom line. Your credibility is now suspect
Sheesh, that's a bunch of BS. Silca is succeeding because they make awesome products, educate consumers, and support their stuff. Josh doesn't need to play games.
I went from Candada to Florida on a bicycle on a waxed chain, through numerous thunderstorms that lasted 8 hours+ of cycling in squalls of water. It was about 1500 miles. Every night I just dried it and applied the drip wax ( i did a melt before i left). Despite literal days of riding in the rain and off road dirt and gunk, my chain didn't even wear to the first wear indicator on the chain checker.
Candada?😂
I did roughly 5000km on my drivetrain with no visible wear - on oil. Take care of your gear and your gear will take care of you.
Canadia
What route did you take in South Carolina and Georgia?
@@Jasonr606 I didn’t go through South Carolina I went from Atlanta to Jacksonville
Hey josh great vid - just quick clarifications for all regarding the Single Application Longevity testing and data as that data table is a bit finnicky re understanding.
First know that in the dry road test - without any contamination addition to accelerate wear / simulate other conditions - kms on a machine are not like kms pedaled. Machine kms are very smooth unlike the very large peak power phases of pedaling, and so km's attained on machine are much higher than would be expected in real world cycling.
So the first column is the raw data of how many kms to the test allowance which for S.A.L is 20% of a chains wear allowance mark of 0.5% (so 0.1% elongation wear).
This figure is then divided by 3 in an attempt to relate the kms to something remotely realistic / possible in real world riding.
However - note that in general you do not want to ride a lubrication application to the point where by the time you re lube, you have used 20% of your chains wear allowance. Ideally you want to re lube at a point where your chain wear for that application is as close to 0% wear as possible.
Hence in general the key figure / column to use is the adjusted kms to "jump point". The jump point is where we see there is a clear jump in the wear measure on the wear check intervals, as this is really what denotes the lubricant treatment as being effectively done.
Ie - a wear check might show 1% wear of the 20% wear allowance. next check another 1%. Next check another 1%, and this continues for awhile, but then on a check measure we see say 6%. And the next check is also 6%. So the point at which the wear measures went from 1% to 6% would denote when the lubricant treatment started to give out - and that is the most accurate point to call the treatment longevity - The jump point. And again to relate to something real world - ish - the jump point km's divided by 3 - so the most far right column - that is the column to use, not the far left column which is the raw kms to the 0.1% chain elongation wear allowance.
**Wear per interval and jump point - this behavior can vary a bit by lubricant type.
Stereotypically with many wax lubricants and immersive waxes - there is a very clear jump point. There will typically be zero or close to zero wear per interval check, until suddenly when the wax layer is effectively done - a large jump in a check wear measure, and then it is not long until test wear allowance reached.
However for some of the top wet lubricants - they may not display a jump point until reach wear allowance - just continue to show very small amount of wear per interval until the wear allowance is reached.
So in the latter there will be no difference between total and related km figures vs jump point figures. Whereas for many waxes there is a clear difference between jump point figures (which is the true mark of when the treatment gave out) vs total km's to wear mark.
Further detail explaining the S.A.L testing is on the top of the spreadsheet for the S.A.L test data.
Thanks!
There's a thread somewhere here where a guy (@IlPinnacolo) wants to know why the chain needs to be stripped or prepped before dunking it into wax. He's not satisfied with the explanation that it helps with adhesion. Can you throw some science into the conversation?
Absoluteblack just released some bonkers longevity testing results for their graphenlube.
I said they had to supply third party testing. Then they went crazy. Like you would expect 😂
@@SnaxNoCo Ha that is funny (to me). Scientifically i cant really help him, but logically it should be pretty simple. If i wanted to stick some sticky tape to a surface, and that surface was oiled or greased - i would have a tough time. An IM wax is a solid lubricant. So we want that solid to be bonded to chain metal. Then after break in, the solid wax coating is what is covering all part of the chain. It doesn't do that very well if there is oil / grease there, you wont have a fast solid wax coating, you just have a mess of wax and grease.
There are deeper levels re science on pretty much anything if one really wants to on a topic - im just not sure in this case if the juice is worth the squeeze re time and effort for science and chemistry hunt vs just well that seems logical. Ie i am sure i fell off a building strapped to a large anvil vs if i fell off a building strapped to a huge helium balloon - i am going to fall faster with the anvil. A whole lotta math could be done to calc my impact speed with the anvil vs the balloon, or i could go you know what - i will go with the balloon thanks, it is just logical thats going to clearly be a better outcome for me. If i asked for the person giving me that option for the math before making a decision on which option to go with, i reckon they would give me funny ol look.
@@zerofrictioncycling992 He makes the argument that both wax and oil are hydrocarbons, so once they are heated together, they should basically blend--so how could the oil prevent adhesion? It's not like we're sticking hard wax on a cold oiled surface--so the sticky tape analogy doesn't really apply.
@@Eirikkinserdal ha yes if you have that send it to me! AB are (in my opinion) really, really poor re any questions / criticism / feedback. Which with the mega claims they come out with on ANYTHING - being uber defensive and combative against any questions on said mega claims - to me it is just not a great way of operating. I do not understand how they have not yet twigged to how many customers / potential customers they turn away by acting like they do.
Wife and I rode Canada to Mexico on GDMBR in 2018. We had immersion waxed chains, I didn’t do any adds, rinsed water a few times, put on new immersion waxed chains in CO. I’ve noticed my wax jobs/ chains lasting longer in recent years because I’ve gotten more thorough at cleaning factory petroleum goo before immersion waxing.
I really struggle to understand how anyone still argues that waxing is too time consuming. Whatever extra time I spend up front getting chain prepped and immersed I get back many times over in fast, simple cleaning of bike. I do not own a cassette brush - I never have any crud on my drivetrain that doesn’t blow off with a common garden hose.
In the last 40 yrs of riding (now 64) I've found the single biggest contributor to chain longevity has been my massive reduction in max power output. From over 1800w/3 secs to about 800.😁
Love Josh's videos and also his appearances on other channels. Always information rich. Always very educational. I'm a big Silca fan and use several products. Also have their Matone seat bag and Gravelero tire pump. Very happy with all of it.
Started using synergetic on my steel road bike, which panniers and mudguards, which I commute to work in on daily in London. I ride all weathers, don’t care about fractional watt savings I’d get from waxing and want to quickly clean and apply the lube. synergetic has proved to be an excellent lube, and isn’t washed off when I’m caught in downpours. It lasts so long.
I started waxing the "summer" bike a while ago and love it, however was hesitant to wax the winter / bikepacking bike. Went with the Synergetic for the winter bike, only been on a couple of rides so far but happy out so far.
"Adam's talked quite extensively" might be the understatement of the year!
Thanks for this, it's refreshing NOT to see another "Waxing is best! If you're not waxing, you're a fool" type diatribe. It's clear all these products are trade-offs of one sort or another and what works great for one might be so great for another.
Larry it is great to see a comment from you that is not completely off a deep end :). Nowhere from me, or silca is it ever put across that if you are not waxing you are a fool. Simply the benefits one gets from IM waxing are clearly explained so that one can make an informed decision re if making what is often a big change for someone from just dripping something on - if that is right for them or if they should stay with drip lubricants, and if the answer is stay with drip - then what is the right drip lubricant - ie if one is riding road - then the top wet lubricants can be a great choice for many, however if one is riding offroad - the vastly superior contamination resistance of wax emulsion drip lubricants will be much better suited.
So we step people through options, and simply when explaining IM waxing the inherent advantages of IM waxing are covered. No one else i know of, and i have been doing this awhile, has ever reported the "if you dont wax you are a fool" perception.
It is an option. An extremely good option, but an option. which ZFC and silca and others have covered along with all the other good to great options that come from a bottle. I have never understood why so triggered re IM wax content, but hopefully your comment above shows you might be calming down :)
@@zerofrictioncycling992" No one else i know of, and i have been doing this awhile, has ever reported the "if you dont wax you are a fool" perception. " Really? That's pretty much all I hear from the wax-cult, I'm amazed that you can deny this. But you can't even "take a win" here...continuing to go on and on (and on and on) about boiling your chain in wax. I understand that's your biz but maybe take a page out of Josh' book and back-off a bit on the wax evangelism? Just like Scientology, it's not for everyone!
If you add one of your wet lubes on top of a waxed chain how do you prepare it to back to wax alone?
Yes, this! How do you prep the chain before rewaxing in the pot?
Re-strip it to bare metal. You can heat the chain to melt most of the wax, use solvents (white spirit and gasoline work well) to clean it fully, and then you can rewax.
@@pierrex3226 wondering if I can just use the Silca one step stripper…
Hi Josh. I am wondering what the suggestions would be for a shorter race off road so a XCO or cross race in varied conditions.
Great video once again. Josh, after using Synergetic on a waxed chain, what is the cleaning process required for that chain to go back to immersion wax?
Really like to know how the metrics change for dust free environments like an enclosed drivetrain
Use wax and you'll have a fully enclosed chain, because the wax encloses it 😂
I use liquid wax when it's going to be dry but go to Synergee for 9 months of the year. Riding in Washington state, I end up hosing off my bike after 70% of my rides. The the oil/anti corrosion is super important. Even on a SRAM XO drivetrain, I get surface rust if I use any sort of wax based lube. The I use synergee specifically for corrosion resistance.
I use Synergetic because I ride long distance bike tours and wax is a pain and doesn't work in the rain. I love synergetic. On the GDMBR last yr I only lubed my chain once a week (every 300 miles) and I rode in dirty/dusty terrain for two months.
Two quick questions:
1) Best chain product for Leadville, assuming single application?
2) Best chain product dry dusty San Diego MTB to reduce maintenance effort
I use Secret chain wax with endurance chip for road
Call me crazy but I use military spec Break Free, Apply, drop by drop to each link, let it dry overnight and then wipe it off by running the chain backwards thru a rag. I read a white paper by the military and the more you use this product the better it can perform. My chain ARE lasting longer and are quiet.
A quick question. I have all three Silca products, secret chain hot wax, super secret wax liquid and synergetic oil. For winter, for my mule, who rides in the rain and sleeps covered but outside, I prefer Synergetic oil. But I was wondering if during the summer I could switch to a waxed chain (a new, freshly waxed chain, I might add) without having to de-grease the drive train?
Questions on using Synergetic during a ride on a hot waxed chain: How do I revert back to hot waxing? Do I just redip the chain in wax or do I need to deep clean it to pristine condition?
You will need to clean it with Chain Stripper, SILCA brake and drivetrain, or similar.. before rewaxing.
I bought a bag of the Silca Secret Chain wax and the Absolute Black 2.0 Graphene wax. I tried two of Muc-Offs ceramic dry lubes and couldn't believe how crap they were. Total dirt/sand magnets and waste of money.
So far I've only used the AB Graphene wax and will NOT be switching back to any wet lube any time soon.
Interesting notes on the Silca Secret to the AB Graphene. I'm going to dip my other chain in the Silca and try them back to back after fully degreasing.
I’m interested in switching my mountain bike chain to waxed (dry & dusty SoCal conditions). But, I’m not interested in regularly doing the hot waxing work. How much mileage/hours does a wax lube give to a hot waxed chain?
Hey Josh, I'm taking a bike that has been lubed with SuperSecret Wax Lube for outdoor use and moving it indoor to the trainer. Will a simple degrease and application of Synerg-E work or do I need to fully strip the chain like it's new? And the inverse for switching back outdoors in the spring.
Hey Josh, for an e-cargo bike with a mid drive motor (power into the chain), I know that synerg-e is the pick for it, but I'm curious as to how well hot melt would do in thst application? My thinking is that it perhaps wouldn't last so long just due ot the massive torque that the motor puts out into the wax?
Josh, I’ve started waxing with your products. I added the endurance chip to my first melting. My question is, if I wanted to strip a chain do I add the strip chip to the current wax/endurance chip mixture? Or do I need to clean the heat cup of all the current wax mix and start new with strip chip? This question also goes for adding the speed chip, what is the protocol for mixing, matching wax, chips, strip chip? Thanks,
Don
To clean / degrease the chain after use with wet lube do you need to carryout a full degrease i.e. use chain cleaner / bath tool or just spray and wipe down and re-apply lube? Most wet oil based lubes need a deep clean but havent came across what to do for the Silca wet lube.
I have consistently found that Supersecret Chain wax does not last well on my gravel bike chain in dusty long rides. It was a new chain, waxed with strip chip. I clean with hot water, rewax, ride and then apply Super Secret Chain lube to top off the wax. Again this weekend, I was about 80 miles into a 130 mile gravel race and my chain just started grinding. Had to beg chain lube at an aid station to finish. Suggestions?
As someone who wasn't convinced by wax for bikepacking, and converted back to wet lube - if you're suggesting an initial hot wax and then lubing the chain, how would you then clean the chain to rewax? Degreaser? Boiling? Stripper?
Which would you recommend for an all rounder. Non waxed chain
Mixed conditions but mostly dry. Easiest to apply and less frequent
Been using drip wax for bit and very impressed. Wrench for 30 years now I have tried many chain wear gauges. What is your go to?
I have been using your wax this season, great performance. My concern is that dirt and grit will get suspended in the wax and carried into the chain and wear the pins and rollers. How can I tell when it is time to replace the wax in the pot and how do I do it? Thanks.
Are you dropping your used chain straight into the pot for re-waxing without cleaning first? Just some boiling water should do the trick as it melts the wax on the chain and will take the grit with it.
In general, wiping your chain with a microfiber cloth before waxing will remove most of the dust and grit. But if your chain is really dirty, wipe it well with a cloth first, then swish it around in a pot of boiling water to flush away the remaining grit. Before re-waxing, dry the chain well by swinging it around to fling off most of the big drops before leaving it in the sun for a bit (best), or dry it was a hair dryer (slow but effective), or even just let it hang (remove as much water as possible first to reduce the risk of rust forming). As for changing the wax in the pot, you can just wait until most of the waxed is used up, and then pour off the remainder and wipe out the residue with some paper towels. But, depending on how dirty your chains are when you put them in the pot, the frequency of resetting the wax on the pot will vary, so it's possible that you can just add more wax instead of cleaning everything. While I don't think it's been tested anywhere, I suspect that a little grit in the wax may not be as bad as the same grit in wet lube because it won't form a grinding paste the same way. All of that said, the easiest way to maintain a waxed chain is to wipe it down before re-waxing, and then replace the wax in the pot when it's almost used up.
Very helpful video to help me understand- thanks!
Hi Josh - Thanks for the informative video. I am running Super Secret on both my road and gravel bikes and have been happy with the performance. My question is about my mountain bike. I am considering changing over to wax, but am concerned as I live in Victoria, BC (which is similar to Seattle, Vancouver, etc) and winter is coming, i.e. I will be riding my MTB 2-3 days a week in wet, muddy conditions, then will be rinsing my bike off. Do you think that Synergetic would be better for winter and that I should wait until Spring & Summer to switch to wax?
I have vintage, hard-to-replace chainrings on two of my bikes and want to minimize chainring wear, including wear on the sides of the teeth. It's starting to look like the bike running Silca hot wax may be showing more wear on the sides of the chainring teeth (as if using excessive cross-chaining) vs oil or even dry lube. I speculate wax might not coat the aluminum, allowing the chain to cut into the aluminum teeth.
I ride in dry road conditions, and prioritize high efficiency, low chainring wear, and relatively gunk-free operation.
Which product would be best for my use case?
Sorry if this question is off topic but I was curious what the recommendation is for what one should do when your tire sprays sealant all over your waxed chain?
Boil the chain? Pretend it never happened and continue to wax the chain as usual?
Been using White Lighting for over 25 yrs. Haven't personally ever had a chain problem. I'd say it has a lot to do with the rider in addition to lube.
You would love one of the modern lubes.. WL is objectively one of the worst lubricants still on the market in terms of single application longevity, friction, and wear. SuperSecret, UFO, Rex Black Diamond or numerous others will net you a 6-7watt friction reduction, 3-4x increase in application longevity, and as much as a 10x reduction in drivetrain wear.
Synergetic is noticably smoother, quieter and much longer lasting than any drip lube ive ever used. Only annoying thing is how long it takes to apply because of the viscosity and nozzle.
Using the Super Secret Drip wax now since im riding dust more but will switch back to Synergetic when the rain comes
Great video. Have a quick question.
I have been using oil based lubricant for few months and wanted to try wax. Im kinda of new to cycling so I didnt want to try to remove chain.
I used silca bio degreaser with bike wash to try to remove as much oil as I could. I was not able to remove all of it, still rubbing fingers around the chain would show some oil on fingers.
Because I was not able to remove all of it but still wanted to use wax, I started putting 3x SILCA Super Secret Chain Lube.
My question: Is it ok to put drip wax lube on the chain even if there is some of the old oil left?
why do you not sell the drip wax lube in the tubs anymore?
Did you test wax in the desert environment. Salt, sand and humid? How frequent should I apply the wax?
What about lubing the derailleur pivots? Ive always wondered.
Hi, I do use your hot wax and your fluid! For cleaning I do use your chaincleaner. How to prevent my cassette from rusting after washing? Thanks for support!
What about cold conditions? Does the wax drip lube still work well at 0 degrees Celsius?
You said the additives in the synagetic make it last less time.
Probebly over simplifying things but if I don’t shake the bottle before adding the lube will it last longer but be slower?
Wat if you clean your bike and put som water repellent spray on it. Like Muc-off bike protect. There always gonna be some on the chain. Do you need to degrease te chain again before applying Silca super secreet chain lube or synergetic?
At 8:07 we see the commuters . . . I can imagine that hot waxing KEEPS their chains SO clean - ergo CLOTHES don't get messy from an oiled chain
(no matter HOW good the lubricant is :-)
The Silca SS hot wax is amazing for my endurance bike's chain but I confess I don't ride in the rain - WAY too lazy to wash the thing down after a ride :-)
On a multi week bikepacking trip that has enough miles that you have to re-lube no matter what you are using and that could involve riding a whole day in the rain, what would you take?
Sounds like synergetic
Even the least expensive candle wax outperforms all "wet lube" products in wet weather (3:01 look at the ZeroFrictionCycling Block 4-wet contamination results). Silca Super Secret came in 3rd place among bottled wax drip lubes.
Synergetic, almost as good as wax but 0 faff
Synergetic. But, based on my experience on long bikepacking races, you may need a new chain and cassette after the event--depending on miles/day and trail composition (dirt, granite, etc.)
So does hot wax offer any corrosion resistance? I live in coastal Florida and have been waxing for a few months now. Starting to see some corrosion show up on my chain (that was and has been stripped and re-waxed multiple times).
I’m a huge fan of your wax and use on all my chains. It’s pretty dry in SoCal and seldom has my chains been exposed to wet muddy conditions. For me I don’t see the need for oil but since I will be traveling with my gravel bike to the Philippines and Vietnam. I will probably get a bottle before I go just to be prepared. I hope customs doesn’t think I’m smuggling anything lol.
Even the least expensive candle wax outperforms all "wet lube" products in wet weather (3:01 look at the ZeroFrictionCycling Block 4-wet contamination results). Food grade paraffin wax is on par with MSpeedWax Original Formula and widely available for about $10/kg
Hi Josh if I use the Synergetic in wet conditions do I have to do a deep clean before re-waxing? Thanks Jim
Yes.
@@SILCAVelo thanks
I have a hot melt waxed chain on my trainer, but I am interested in the longevity of the Synerg-E lube. Can I add Synerg-E directly over the top of the hot melt wax? or do I need a properly cleaned chain to start?
You can add SynergE over top of hot wax, it will wick into the inside of the chain and in time, combine with the wax. Subsequent applications will further thin the wax allowing it to run out to be wiped away after future re-lubrication. Just be sure to wipe before and after with micro-fiber cloth to remove any dirt, and then any excess lubricant on the outside of the chain.
@@SILCAVelo Thank you!! These videos are very helpful.
did you change something about the audio? i think it's a bit better now
Serious question. Can I wax my Leatherman Multitool??!! The tools swing in and out of the body, I would think that is similar to how the roller moves around the bushing. Thanks
Yes, SuperSecret Drip is amazing on knives and similar type tools, it's very satisfying to drip a little on and work the action and just feel the tool totally smooth out!!
How about adding a luberetta tip to the synergetic and the super secret drip?
How often would you suggest the cassette and front chainring should be cleaned when using your hot wax system?
I've noticed on mine a layer of wax on the teeth after applications of the drip on between dips. Guessing this could help reduce friction or hold/capture dirt?
waxed components do not capture dirt... which is what makes them especially suited for chain lubrication
@@OriginalTrev So why does the wax look dirty?
I'd say the wax holds "less" dirt
@@gmivisualsjason3729 Just to be clear... "Hot Wax" indicates immersive chain waxing and not wax drip lubes. If the molten wax in your immersion pot looks dirty then you haven't been pre-cleaning the chain in boiling water before immersing it in the molten wax. If your cassette sprockets look dirty then you haven't been wiping it dry after a wet ride.
@@OriginalTrev Nothing that you just said is correct in my case.
But thanks for taking the time to comment
i have an ebike, which i use for general biking on roads and some trails. should i use wax on my chain. should it be drip wax. i am in the uk.
I use hot wax and drip wax on my road, gravel and Mtb. Under normal dry conditions everything is good. On a recent 35 mile bike packing day trip with mostly dry conditions the wax held up well but after rinsing the bike the chain showed signs of surface rust the next morning. I’m interested in trying the oil over wax for bike packing. How clean/dirty does this make the drive system? Is it as messy as Triflow, etc?
Even the least expensive candle wax outperforms all "wet lube" products in wet weather (3:01 look at the ZeroFrictionCycling Block 4-wet contamination results). Silca Super Secret came in 3rd place among bottled wax drip lubes which placed higher than all oil drip lubes.
Oil over wax can be a useful way to extend the lubrication for a long ride when re-waxing isn't convenient or feasible. Alas, your drivetrain will be messier at the end than if you just used wet lube, because the wax flakes will add volume to the wet lube. But if you have time to wipe the chain a few times during the ride, it won't be as bad. Of course, you'll need to re-strip and clean your chain, cassette, and rings before going back to wax. So, not a terrible thing in the context of a big race, but not something that I would like to do on a frequent basis.
Can I put synergetic on top of wax?
Yes. Answered around 9:46.
Thanks. I promise I watched but somehow missed it.
But I don't think you can go back to wax without stripping it right?
Yep. But you'll need to strip the chain again before re-waxing it.
@@T.Mitcbree Not sure that I'd burn chain wax. While I believe that the additives are non-toxic, that might not be true if they are being burned and breathed...
Have you considered selling a version of Synergetic in a 6- or 12-pack of single use packets? I’m envisioning a small clear plastic monodose packet w/ a twist-off tear tab, similar to the little oil packets you get w/ a MTB suspension service kit. I think this would be useful for endurance racers or those who may want to store one in their seat pack for emergencies.
Pro tip: Buy a normal sized synergetic bottle and also get a small eye drop bottle (like people use for contact lenses). Filling up the small eye drop bottle is super easy and the application process on your chain works perfectly. Have used it on multi day races for a few years now.
@@KnightyBoy That’s a slick idea, thanks. I still like the even more compact nature of the idea I proposed too🍻
I was gifted 5 bottles of synergetic but I am a religious waxer so don't know how I will ever use these. What's our thoughts on using Synergetic as a form of high end general purpose oil for lubricating cable lines and derailluer pivot points etc?
I don't like to lube cables at all. It just attracts dirt, which end up making them less slippery. Instead, I purchase high-quality housing and slick cables. But it does work fine for pivot points--just be sure to wipe off any excess that might attract grit.
For long events. like bikepacking I came up with this stragegy: have a 2 chains every day after ride, apply drip on wax, wait till morning until it's kinda evaporated, then change chain, and let your chain dry more over day while you're riding second chain, on evening drip on second chain... swtich at morning... repeat until end of event.
Oh, I didn't tried it yet, but planning by end of the month on vacation.
Just use synergetic - save all that faff
@@MrHcharles and then I would have to clean again my chain
also I use wax because I prefer wax
You don’t have to clean your chain when you apply synergetic, drip 1 per link, backpedal the chain for 30 secs then wipe off, any you only have to do it every 300 miles at the shortest
@@MrHcharlesafter the event you need to strip the chain before rewax
Anyway 100% agreed on the synergetic and just one chain 😅
Even the least expensive candle wax outperforms all "wet lube" products in wet weather (3:01 look at the ZeroFrictionCycling Block 4-wet contamination results). Silca Super Secret came in 3rd place among bottled wax drip lubes which placed higher than all oil drip lubes... Rewaxing intervals can likely exceed 400 km if you use a microfibre cloth to wipe your chain after every ride.
My chain has 53,000 orginal miles on it and I use "muckoff" every 300 to 400 miles - so after every 1 to 2 rides. It consistently gets worked in the rain, dust of dirt roads and loads up to 46 pounds foot of torque and see speeds up to 115 mph but generally is ran at 40 to 70 mph. About every 1,000 miles I spray it down with " krud cutter" then spray it with pressure washer, all while still on the bike, dry it off run it for 3 min on the stand and spray the chain on the top of the chain as it passes by on the return to the rear gear. If you haven't figured it out yet its a motorcycle BUT I also use the same stuff on my bicycles- I have 2 and my wife and boys have 1 a peice except my 6 year old, he has 3 bikes now. That 8 bikes! Out of all the things I have to do to keep 8 bikes going worn cassettes, rings or chains have never been an issue.
How about riding a road bike in extreme heat? 100-108 degree commutes? Is wax still the way to go, or would an oil stand up to the heat better?
Wax outperforms oil lubes up to the point of auto-ignition around 400F
While the wax will melt if you leave your bike sitting in the sun, it'll harden back up once you get moving again. It's never been a problem for me.
Why not use a good quality transmission oil.
Just don't have the time nor am I willing to spend the money for waxing equipment. Despite my job being to sell bikes, I dot have much time to ride them, and in the hours it takes to remove and degrease my chain, liquify the wax, "cooking" the chain in it, letting it dry and re-apply my chain, I can ride my usual local route three times. Cleaning and oiling my chain takes only a few minutes and can be done pre-ride. Also hardly doubt that a waxed chain will make me ride any faster with less effort.
Degreasing a chain needs to be done just once--and Silca's chain prep or Strip Chip make that an easy task (10 minutes for stripper, ZERO minutes for Strip Chip). Liquifying the wax does take a bit, but I hope that you're not standing there watching it melt! I usually just turn the melter on, eat dinner or something, and then drop the chain in--so maybe 2 minutes of actual work? There's no "cooking" required; just drop it in, swish it around a few times, and then hang it to cool and harden. So, unless your ride is shorter than 5 minutes of total time, waxing is much faster than riding you "usual local route three times." On the other hand, cleaning a wet-lubed drivetrain is a total PITA.
Wax is best...IF you can maintain it yourself and do the right things regards owning/riding a bike with a waxed chain...BUT if you're depending on your local bike shop or local bike mechanic to tend to your waxed system then that may get tiresome/draining.
Does anyone bring their bike to the shop to get rewaxed every few hundred Kms?
EMTB in dry and modestly dusty conditions. Does the standard Silca wax handle the high loads from full-fat emtbs well, or is there a better mix for dry conditions? Or use the Silca e-bike lube?
Roughly how many hours of EMTB riding in dust will a hot wax application last? Thanks!
I love wax on my mountain bike! So much cleaner and easier to maintain than wet lube. Just wax a few chains at once, and then rotate through them as necessary. I've ridden 100 miles of Pike Peak granite, which is about as abrasive as it comes, without an issue. No problem with "high loads." If wax can handle the watts of a grand-tour sprinter, it can handle anything that I can throw at it.
This is going to trigger soooo many people
Why bother with the cleaning step before waxing a new chain? Paraffin is a hydrocarbon, the oil on the chain should be soluble in the wax and negligibly change its composition. At high temps a lot of the lighter aromatics in the chain lube should evaporate out of the solution anyway.
New to waxing so I'm genuinely curious.
Not all hydrocarbons are the same. Oil & grease keep the wax from properly adhering to the chain. But you can use Strip Chip to wax and degrease in the same step if you don't want to save some time and fuss.
@@SnaxNoCo What are you basing this claim on?
P.s. if it is not soluble, then what happens when to the oil when it is heated to a high temp and the viscosity is low enough to flow out of the chain with some agitation? Surely there is a difference in S.G. which means it will either float to the top or sink to the bottom.
@@SnaxNoCo p.s. I dropped a brand new chain in high temp paraffin right after I wrote the first comment. All I did beforehand was wipe the exterior of the chain.
Looks like the oil dissolved pretty readily.
@@IlPinnacolo It might seem like that, but it doesn't work that way. It's a good question. I'm sure that a chemist at Silca could provide a more thorough technical explanation, but I'm only capable of provided the executive summary. The bottom line is that chains need to be stripped or prepped using one of three options: various sequential solvent baths, Silca Chain Stripper, or Silca Strip Chip.
@@SnaxNoCo They have chemists on staff? Impressive.
I'm looking at my pot of paraffin right now with a brand new chain in it. No oil bubbles.
P.s. water and ethanol are very different yet totally miscible.
The reason I don’t wax is because it is still expensive.
So im failing to see where this video is wax vs lube. All i got from this is you wanted to advertise Synergetic. I'll move on thanks 😂
Waxed indoor makes a mess on my floor
I’ve wondered how to get around this but the video suggests using the Synergetic lube on the trainer. I’ll give it a go this winter!
While I wax the chains on my outdoor bikes, I use a clean chain with Syner-G on my trainer. No mess--and it lasts a LONG time because there's no grit or dust. Just wipe it down for the first few rides, and you shouldn't get any mess at all.
Better tell why your Super Secret Wax in bottle is such shit product. It lasts barely 70-80km with road bike.
Put wax in your car engine and get back to me!
Different application, different lube. After all, you wouldn't put gear grease in your car engine, right?
Put any bike chain lube in your car engine and get back to me!
Josh. You lost the plot when you tried to make a case for the big dropper tip vs the needle tip.
Just be honest, the new tip means more use of the product and you sell more lube.
The needle tip is fantastic.
More lube is not necessary except to pad the bottom line.
Your credibility is now suspect
Sheesh, that's a bunch of BS. Silca is succeeding because they make awesome products, educate consumers, and support their stuff. Josh doesn't need to play games.