I always remove the chain to clean it. I also never use water or water-based degreasers. I use a toothbrush, an old paint tray, and white spirit I keep in a jar and reuse. It then gets dipped in hot wax so no need to dry it after.
I pull the chain and cassette and throw them in an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water and degreaser (just a whatever bulk bottle). Worst chain I've had took 7 trips through the cleaner before I could finish up for waxing it, it had drip lube on it for who knows how long, but still measured as ok wear wise. Even bad cassettes only take 1 or 2 trips since there are fewer tight spaces for junk to hide. 7 rounds through an ultrasonic cleaner sounds like a lot of work, but it's mostly a minute or two to fill, and then turn it on and forget about it for a while.
Old school: a couple of tablespoons of diesel fuel in an old water bottle sitting in the bottle cage on the seattube. With a paintbrush "paint" the chain, cogset and chainrings. Wash the rest of the bike with dish soap, using a separate sponge to clean the drivetrain. Rinse well...not strong...well. Wipe bike dry, maybe using some polish, then wipe the drivetrain bits with a throwaway rag. Clean, shiny and with a bit of lubrication left on all the moving bits. Just like the pro mechanics did for years until Karcher gave away those gawdawful pressure washers and way-too-harsh degreasers came on the scene. If it was good enough for Felice Gimondi...
I like Si’s method of bike cleaning. Ride it until the chain is absolutely covered in grime, then get another GCN presenter to clean it all. Seems very efficient to me!
Back in the day I had a buddy in my riding group who gave each of us the same Xmas present - he gifted us a no-judgement, thorough chain removal, cleaning and re-attach at some point mid-summer. And he did an awesome job!
Oil from the inside track of the chain, using the lower span between the bottom of crank and lowest jockey. When you spin the cranks, the centrifugal force pushes the oil from the inside to chain to the other side covering more of the pins.
Love this! I’ve watched so many of these GCN chain videos over the years, & I think this is the first time they recommended doing a cross chain when applying lube. Brilliant! Thanks again GCN. And, we all know Si keeps a clean bike.
Do it old school, clean your chain and cogs quick. Pine-sol or Pine-O-Pine. Natural degreaser and cheap. Everyone I knew competitively racing for five years did the same cleaning. Do this outdoors. Mix the cleaner @ 4:1 water to cleaner. Apply with a nylon brush like a chain brush, while rotating your crank/wheel/cogs. You’ll see a lot of dirty liquid coming off your chain and cog. Shortly sparkling clean. Spray with water, while rotating. Allow to air dry. Lube.
Thanks! Sounds great. What cleaner? What do you mean by cleaner? And what lube? And final question: removing the grease does not leave the chain loosen and it can easily brake?
Thanks for this, I have grudgingly accepted that I need to clean my chain much more often so I needed a quick and easy method. Did it following this today, quite easy.
My favorite way to clean my chain/cassette is to remove them from the bike and wheel and put them in an ultrasonic cleaner. Run with warm water and a bit of degreaser for about 10 minutes and then scrub, rinse then dry. Gets them perfectly clean then I hot melt wax and drip as needed.
Ultrasonic cleaners are not terribly expensive. Less than $100. Save $$$ on all the expensive degreaser chemicals that become unnecessary!!! Dishwashing detergent is inexpensive and works well in the cleaner. If you intend to ride long term, by far the best solution!!!
Probably not too hard to clean them but you can always just use different parts of the cloth each time you clean your chain and maybe find another purpose for the dirty cloth (after rinsing it out it should be at least good enough to use for some different things) And how often do you really clean your chain? I mean, I doubt even Ollie with his exceptionally clean chain cleans it after every ride.
It's important to note that some/many/most? quick links have a direction of travel which is indicated by a tiny near-invisible arrow engraved on it. If you put it on backwards, you WILL notice.
Nice and useful video, thanks. Would have appreciated some hse (particular environmental) considerations. Petroleum ether ? Acetone ? Into the ground ? Seriously ?
I went back to waxing my chain and am amazed at how clean it stays. I am in Southern California and riding pavement. There is maybe 200m of a gravel trail around one side of a park I ride nearly every ride. I was just cleaning my drive train this morning and found not grit or grime. Wiping the chain with a fresh clean towel returned a nearly perfectly clean towel. I use Squirt on each roller at either plate interface. One small dot of lube per roller then wipe off the excess as I complete the inside of the chain along a section. Leaves a smooth shifting and running chain for my weeks riding. Once a month I pull the chain and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner then rinse in hot water, blow dry. Relax using a waxing pot and chain wax. I forget the brand. After the chain has soaked and been stirred around in the wax for an hour or so, I remove the chain and carefully wipe the excess and hand to cool and dry. A second wipe before installation to a freshly cleaned bike and I'm ready for another month. I'm only doing around 1,000km per month right now so not a load of mileage. And nearly zero rain or water contamination and very little grit or sand even along the beach trail.
Nice tip on the cross chaining. I usually thoroughly clean the clain then remove the wheel and clean the cassette some more with a rag between each cog. I reassemble everything and leave my bike in the HOT Sun to dry up and remove any moisture in the chain rollers before applying any lube. Thanks again.
It may seem like shameless advertising on Ollie's part advocating the Park 10.3 bike stand, but I've got one and it makes working on my bike SO much easier. It's world's better than my old stand. If you do your own maintenance, it really is a must have.
I bought a little ultrasonic cleaner from Lidl for like 20€ and holy heck is it good for this. Wipe the chain first, pop the quick link off, chuck it in the cleaner with some degreaser and water for a few minutes and the thing comes out sparkling like it's actually new from the box. You do need to be careful to oil it well afterwards because it gets so clean it rusts pretty quickly.
I'm cleaning my bike and components tomorrow before a big service next week. I would always clean my bike frame, seat, post etc first before taking on the chain and cassette. This way you won't get water all over the chain and potential dirt dropping on it.
I put a piece of thin cardboard, with a thin U shaped slot cut in it, opposite my cassette, to keep disc brake parts from getting contaminated from over spray or splatter.....A quick cleaning every 3-4 rides keeps things running smoothly.
An eye-opening video. Using water, degreaser and a brush will be a game-changer this decade in such a high-tech yet still controversial field as cleaning bike chains! :P
I always find that the more I take things apart, the easier they are to clean. Not just the chain, I remove a dirty cassette before cleaning it, I often remove the jockey wheels when I clean the rear derailleur, I take the crank off when cleaning the bottom bracket area etc. Cleaning fully assembled bikes typically mean lots of work and not particularly satisfying results!
If you’ve got time to get going and dedication to stick with it, Hot wax. Initial set up was a pain, but now It’s the only way. Removing rinsing and rewaxxing a chain is so much cleaner and faster than stripping black oil and gunk from the whole drivetrain. I’ll never go back to wet lubes. The bonus is that components last longer and you get some free efficiency watts back.
Timely. First 200km Audax of the season here in Switzerland on Saturday. I’ll be getting my jam jar of soapy water and acetone out tomorrow evening. Great little video.
I used a nailbrush or paintbrush. I dip them in the degreaser, and paint it onto the chain and cassette and allow it to work its magic before blasting it off with a hose. I make sure to not go to close to any bearings.
This would’ve been a great opportunity to mention the option of waxing your chain, instead of the traditional oily and greasy mess that you’re now having to deal with. Waxing your chain is a different process, but it saves your expensive components and really takes less time and money than cleaning your oily chain all the time. You guys do a great job covering all manner of cycling topics, keep up the good work
@@gcntech The junk man comes by every Thursday night before the trash truck comes on Friday. He usually gets first dibs at whatever people leave out. 😉😉
(1) Depends on quantity. Compare this to an automobile that uses 30x the product. (2) It's not oil; the chemical structure is altered completely. (3) Silca's brand is designed to be incredibly environmentally friendly (compared to virtually all others on the market). Its not carcinogenic nor classed as a PoP. (4) It's not soil, but rather pavers sitting on top of compacted crushed rock and stone dust / sand
I use muk off dry lube the c3 and I never have to use a degreaser, pur water pressure takes off everything, even after drying with a cloth, no grease left behind.
What I learned in the past 4 years since I'm cycling and washing my bikes is there is a hidden prerequiste of cycling. Number one rule is to have a house with a garden! 🙂 If u ever washed your bike in the bath u'll learn there is a 2nd wave to clean the bathroom. 😞
It is great that we get an update of all the cleaning videos once a new sponsor comes onboard. Don't get me wrong, I love Silca products and understand the economic realities of GCN having to pay their staff. But wow this is so transparent
I don't ride when it's bad out... so my chain doesn't get that dirty.... so i microfiber the chain and then apply DuPont Chain Saver- Wax Based Lubricant that also contains Teflon and Moly for wear protection.... great stuff.... I do that about every 150-200 miles... I use bike chain bio degreaser every once in a great while... keeps the bearings fresh that way...
Us commuters have to ride in nasty conditions! My bike has gone through monsoons, sandstorms, fog, splashes through Icky Goop on commutes. Fancy road bike can stay pristine, but the commute demands rain-or-shine riding.
You say to use a "fresh quick link" at 7:20 but is that really useful? The few molecules of metal lost during the quick link removal/return don't come from a spot on the quick link that is under stress while cycling.
Can GCN do a drive chain effieciency test put the bike on a indoor trainer that uses the wheel and pedal using 200 watts then see if 200 watts is measured at the wheels on thr indoor trainer. 1st a dirty drive chain then a clean one
In my case, the chain gets two changes of boiling water, and then into strong isopropyl alcohol, and after a quick dry, it's into the wax pot. The chainrings and cassette also get a boil and a wipe down with a clean rag. The jockey pulleys get brushed with a stiff brush; since they are resin (2000 Record and Chorus), I'm concerned they won't handle the heat.
Finally a dirty chain that gets cleaned! Surprised though this was Si’s bike. Hasn’t he done some videos about how he quickly cleans his bike after every ride and how easy that is?
Not really related to the video but you sound so similar to Richard Ayoade I find it almost distracting xD Love the content, just getting into biking myself (I've ridden bikes all the time as a kid but not really touched them as an adult before now).
Is there a rule of thumb on where to apply the chain lube? I notice Ollie always tends to apply it on the top of the chain which is opposite of where the chain connects to the sprockets but I've seen other presenters like Alex apply the lube on the other side (video reference - 'Easy & Effective On-The-Bike Chain cleaning!')
Great video, but I'd add one more thing though: allow your chain to dry fully before applying your wax or grease. Water still trapped inside the links may prevent proper distribution of your lubricant or the lubricant may accidentally seal in the water. I'd say a few good hours in the sun or indoors overnight should do.
can you please share some ideas of how to own an expensive bike with a small house? especially, that we don't want to park an expensive bike outside under the rain and the stun.
I purchased a 3L Vevor ultrasonic cleaner. I will never go back to cleaning a chain on the bike. While I am washing up the rest of the bike, I toss the chain and cassette in the ultrasonic cleaner, rinse/dry it and lube it. The chain looks like it is brand new again. You may have to change your master link more often this way but you have a very clean chain each time.
@@gcntech I did the same but a 6L ultrasonic cleaner which is easier for cleaning the cassette. My first try I did 30 minutes for the chain and the cassette. That was overkill. This last time I did 12 minutes for the chain with very hot water. I wax my chain so the cassette didn't look dirty enough to need a deep clean. I' guessing I'll clean the cassette once every 1000 miles or so. OH. I also did shake the chain in a jar for a minute in mineral oil and then acetone. After I was done I think it would have better to just have a degreaser. Also please suggest drying the cassette off with a leaf blower. It is easy and water is the devil to anything steel. Maybe water should have been Kryptonite for the Man of Steel.
I notice in the United States we are taught it is very important to take the wheel off the bike when cleaning the cassettes and tilt the wheels towards the grounds in order to not allow degreaser and contaminates to get into the free hub. But I notice in Tour de France bike cleans and lots of European videos no one tilts the wheels and even cleans the cassettes with wheels still attached to the bike. I guess the fear of contaminating the free hub is not that big of an issue after all?
I cleaned and lube the chain after each ride and being that the grease is biodegradable, I don't need a cleaner, it comes right off with a hose. I use ceramic grease.
Wipe chain with a rag. Apply oil if needed. As recommended by the world's largest chain manufacturer. Plus you save a lot of money and time and you save the environment from some nasty chemicals. It works.
Watch your disc brake while cleaning. Any contamine can splash to it and it will cause greasing the disk and brake not working well. You can cover the disc with something while cleaning.
How come no mention of the mechanical chain scrubber (e.g. blue Park Tool)? It uses the solvent (dish soap works well too) to scrub the chain and even has a magnet to pick up metal wear particles.
I’ve had really good luck cleaning my chain with the Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber (CM-5.2). When I switched to waxing my chain there was very little debris in the first degreasing.
Battery powered power washer can pull water from a bucket. Or you could get an old water fire extinguisher -- basically just a tank you can fill with water and pump up with a bike pump to use as a sprayer.
I never tried this method. I wonder what sound the chain links make and how it feels when moving them after cleaning. I want to her and feel absolutely no grinding at all. Which is why I clean my chains in a pan of hot wax (paraffine) regularly.
my method: every 100km i just wipe the chain with dry rag, and reaply oil and wipe off excess, one a week i use degreaser (mafrasol, diluted 10% in sprayer) when cleaning the whole bike after every ride in rain i just wipe the chain clean and reaply the oil. i hate damn snake oils, and some of the bike oils are just wtf expensive with no proven benefits: i hope u know some of those can cost 300euro per liter :) so i test use left over fresh Manual car gear oil (total 75w90)... after 2000km there is NO MEASURABLE WEAR yet... and i ride my bike commute in every weather so i get alot of wet riding and dirt on my bike ( i do use mudguards it helps a little), guys do not overcomplicate. the gear oil will atract dirt, that is for sure, but i still cant tell the diffrence with using muck off wet lube... and that cost like 20x more :) how hard is to wipe the chain and reaply oil very 100km :) it is like 2 min job
If you ride frequently, and care about your chain / drivechain, then SILCA (RUclips channel SILCA velo) and zero friction cycling are amazing resources. They do a deep dive into how and why components wear, the major shortcomings (and deceptive practices) of traditional lubricant brands, and why you should consider investing a little more to extend the life of your components over 200-300%. People suggesting WD40, acetone, and heavy grease on the drivechain can honestly find a rock to climb under.
Isn´t it just easier to take / remove the chain from the bike and clean the chain separately ? And the take the back wheel from bike and rinse the cassette seperatly?
Share your chain cleaning tips in the comments ⛓
I always remove the chain to clean it. I also never use water or water-based degreasers. I use a toothbrush, an old paint tray, and white spirit I keep in a jar and reuse.
It then gets dipped in hot wax so no need to dry it after.
I basically do what you do for the gravel bike… but on the road, everything’s now waxed 🤜🤛
I pull the chain and cassette and throw them in an ultrasonic cleaner with hot water and degreaser (just a whatever bulk bottle). Worst chain I've had took 7 trips through the cleaner before I could finish up for waxing it, it had drip lube on it for who knows how long, but still measured as ok wear wise. Even bad cassettes only take 1 or 2 trips since there are fewer tight spaces for junk to hide. 7 rounds through an ultrasonic cleaner sounds like a lot of work, but it's mostly a minute or two to fill, and then turn it on and forget about it for a while.
Old school: a couple of tablespoons of diesel fuel in an old water bottle sitting in the bottle cage on the seattube. With a paintbrush "paint" the chain, cogset and chainrings. Wash the rest of the bike with dish soap, using a separate sponge to clean the drivetrain. Rinse well...not strong...well.
Wipe bike dry, maybe using some polish, then wipe the drivetrain bits with a throwaway rag. Clean, shiny and with a bit of lubrication left on all the moving bits. Just like the pro mechanics did for years until Karcher gave away those gawdawful pressure washers and way-too-harsh degreasers came on the scene.
If it was good enough for Felice Gimondi...
Top chain cleaning tip I learned from this video: work for GCN and get Ollie to do it.
I like Si’s method of bike cleaning. Ride it until the chain is absolutely covered in grime, then get another GCN presenter to clean it all. Seems very efficient to me!
Hahaha we can think about a few other presenters that do this 👀
Back in the day I had a buddy in my riding group who gave each of us the same Xmas present - he gifted us a no-judgement, thorough chain removal, cleaning and re-attach at some point mid-summer. And he did an awesome job!
Ollie…..The way you identified the one good reason for cross-chaining was brilliant
Glad you enjoyed it!
The other good reason is because I'm lazy. ;)
Oil from the inside track of the chain, using the lower span between the bottom of crank and lowest jockey. When you spin the cranks, the centrifugal force pushes the oil from the inside to chain to the other side covering more of the pins.
This. I always lube it from the inside and was surprised to see them do it other way around.
As a Chemistry teacher, I REALLY appreciated this. Might even use in a lesson to give everyday example of solvent - solute interactions 👍👍👍
Same here, tensides at molecular level explained in passing!
You're right, and I was surprised to hear a good explanation here. Great!
I use a citrus oil degreaser found at the hardware store. Works just as well as cycle branded products and much cheaper.
Also look for motorbike products. That can also be cheaper
You mean like Simple Clean? How do you get it off the chain? They always say not to rinse it off bc it will get into the bearings
Watching this video was a total eye opener for how I can EASILY clean my chain and cassette way better than what I have been doing!!!! Thank you!!!
Did you lick it clean?!
This was actually helpful! The cross-chaining tip especially was completely new to me, makes perfect sense.
I think Si pulled off a clever con job getting Ollie to do his dirty work.
Like Tom Sawyer painting the fence.
There’s a sucker born every minute!
The part where you talk about molecules and grease I had put on my glasses an push them further up my nose. Great video 😊
Love this! I’ve watched so many of these GCN chain videos over the years, & I think this is the first time they recommended doing a cross chain when applying lube. Brilliant! Thanks again GCN. And, we all know Si keeps a clean bike.
I sometimes use a scrubber to clean my chain. Usually though, I do it myself.
Do it old school, clean your chain and cogs quick. Pine-sol or Pine-O-Pine. Natural degreaser and cheap.
Everyone I knew competitively racing for five years did the same cleaning.
Do this outdoors. Mix the cleaner @ 4:1 water to cleaner.
Apply with a nylon brush like a chain brush, while rotating your crank/wheel/cogs. You’ll see a lot of dirty liquid coming off your chain and cog. Shortly sparkling clean. Spray with water, while rotating. Allow to air dry. Lube.
Thanks! Sounds great. What cleaner? What do you mean by cleaner? And what lube? And final question: removing the grease does not leave the chain loosen and it can easily brake?
We're on the same page regarding chain cleaning Ollie, excellent once again. I also look forward to Chemistry time (2:43).
Thanks for this, I have grudgingly accepted that I need to clean my chain much more often so I needed a quick and easy method. Did it following this today, quite easy.
My favorite way to clean my chain/cassette is to remove them from the bike and wheel and put them in an ultrasonic cleaner. Run with warm water and a bit of degreaser for about 10 minutes and then scrub, rinse then dry. Gets them perfectly clean then I hot melt wax and drip as needed.
Ultrasonic cleaners are not terribly expensive. Less than $100. Save $$$ on all the expensive degreaser chemicals that become unnecessary!!! Dishwashing detergent is inexpensive and works well in the cleaner. If you intend to ride long term, by far the best solution!!!
@@kokonanana1 Definitely! I bought mine for less than $50 from Harbor Freight.
@@kokonanana1 What about waxing?
I used to have a filthy chain, but now it's nice and clean. Thanks mate.
My question is how do you clean the microfiber cloths from chain residues or do you just buy 1000 microfiber cloths?
Probably not too hard to clean them but you can always just use different parts of the cloth each time you clean your chain and maybe find another purpose for the dirty cloth (after rinsing it out it should be at least good enough to use for some different things)
And how often do you really clean your chain? I mean, I doubt even Ollie with his exceptionally clean chain cleans it after every ride.
I put those with other dirty laundry in the washing machine and let the machine clean the microfibers.
I just use old underwear (fresh of course) 🩲 lol😂... Then bin them after... I know... When I cycled loads I had to get new ones every month 😂😂
I use a wooden coffee stir stick to get in-between gears. It removes the all the hidden when degreasing.
It's important to note that some/many/most? quick links have a direction of travel which is indicated by a tiny near-invisible arrow engraved on it. If you put it on backwards, you WILL notice.
Nice and useful video, thanks. Would have appreciated some hse (particular environmental) considerations. Petroleum ether ? Acetone ? Into the ground ? Seriously ?
Thanks for the simple tips and demo. Easier than you think!
Easy when you know how - glad you found it helpful! Now, time to clean your bike?
I went back to waxing my chain and am amazed at how clean it stays. I am in Southern California and riding pavement. There is maybe 200m of a gravel trail around one side of a park I ride nearly every ride. I was just cleaning my drive train this morning and found not grit or grime. Wiping the chain with a fresh clean towel returned a nearly perfectly clean towel. I use Squirt on each roller at either plate interface. One small dot of lube per roller then wipe off the excess as I complete the inside of the chain along a section. Leaves a smooth shifting and running chain for my weeks riding. Once a month I pull the chain and clean it in an ultrasonic cleaner then rinse in hot water, blow dry. Relax using a waxing pot and chain wax. I forget the brand. After the chain has soaked and been stirred around in the wax for an hour or so, I remove the chain and carefully wipe the excess and hand to cool and dry. A second wipe before installation to a freshly cleaned bike and I'm ready for another month. I'm only doing around 1,000km per month right now so not a load of mileage. And nearly zero rain or water contamination and very little grit or sand even along the beach trail.
Nice tip on the cross chaining. I usually thoroughly clean the clain then remove the wheel and clean the cassette some more with a rag between each cog. I reassemble everything and leave my bike in the HOT Sun to dry up and remove any moisture in the chain rollers before applying any lube. Thanks again.
It may seem like shameless advertising on Ollie's part advocating the Park 10.3 bike stand, but I've got one and it makes working on my bike SO much easier. It's world's better than my old stand. If you do your own maintenance, it really is a must have.
Glad you are enjoying the Park Tool stand! 👍
I bought a little ultrasonic cleaner from Lidl for like 20€ and holy heck is it good for this. Wipe the chain first, pop the quick link off, chuck it in the cleaner with some degreaser and water for a few minutes and the thing comes out sparkling like it's actually new from the box. You do need to be careful to oil it well afterwards because it gets so clean it rusts pretty quickly.
I'm cleaning my bike and components tomorrow before a big service next week. I would always clean my bike frame, seat, post etc first before taking on the chain and cassette. This way you won't get water all over the chain and potential dirt dropping on it.
I put a piece of thin cardboard, with a thin U shaped slot cut in it, opposite my cassette, to keep disc brake parts from getting contaminated from over spray or splatter.....A quick cleaning every 3-4 rides keeps things running smoothly.
An eye-opening video. Using water, degreaser and a brush will be a game-changer this decade in such a high-tech yet still controversial field as cleaning bike chains! :P
I always find that the more I take things apart, the easier they are to clean. Not just the chain, I remove a dirty cassette before cleaning it, I often remove the jockey wheels when I clean the rear derailleur, I take the crank off when cleaning the bottom bracket area etc. Cleaning fully assembled bikes typically mean lots of work and not particularly satisfying results!
Disassembling a bike before cleaning all the parts seems like a ton of work to me. I'd rather spend my free time on the bike?!
1:06 when your friend calls you nasty without calling you nasty!
😂
WD-40 on the cassette followed by degreaser and a scrub. works great and is fast.
Dr Bridgewood's tried and tested method!
If you’ve got time to get going and dedication to stick with it, Hot wax. Initial set up was a pain, but now It’s the only way. Removing rinsing and rewaxxing a chain is so much cleaner and faster than stripping black oil and gunk from the whole drivetrain. I’ll never go back to wet lubes. The bonus is that components last longer and you get some free efficiency watts back.
Timely. First 200km Audax of the season here in Switzerland on Saturday. I’ll be getting my jam jar of soapy water and acetone out tomorrow evening. Great little video.
thank you. I use the gentle household cleaner called Simple Green on my bike.
Awesome. Most of us forget to clean our chains and wind up going out without performing a cleaning. This is a super fast way to get the job done.
7:02 - Don't use a glass jar, use a plastic tub. My friend cracked his years ago and cut his hand open.
Great tip! 👌
I used a nailbrush or paintbrush. I dip them in the degreaser, and paint it onto the chain and cassette and allow it to work its magic before blasting it off with a hose. I make sure to not go to close to any bearings.
Don't let people know... they'll ask for a Cannings chain washing video!
I once asked for Pedro's Oranj Peelz by name and the bike store owner literally laughed at me and told me to save my money by using dish soap LOL
“It gets attracted to the grease and binds to the grease” is my love language
Thats my favourite bike that you guys use on the channel. Didnt know it was Si's. He has got good tastes.
This would’ve been a great opportunity to mention the option of waxing your chain, instead of the traditional oily and greasy mess that you’re now having to deal with.
Waxing your chain is a different process, but it saves your expensive components and really takes less time and money than cleaning your oily chain all the time.
You guys do a great job covering all manner of cycling topics, keep up the good work
hey! Thanks for the comment. We are amazed that Ollie didn’t turn this into a chain waxing video, he usually does! Glad you are enjoying our videos 👍
When my chain gets dirty I just throw the bike out in the garbage and buy a new one. Easier than cleaning the chain
Please let us know where you live. We will happily take away your garbage!
On my way now to go through your bins
@@gcntech The junk man comes by every Thursday night before the trash truck comes on Friday. He usually gets first dibs at whatever people leave out. 😉😉
always funny to see bcj comments on the loose!
Send me your address 😂😂
Nice, how all the oil gets into the ground. Certainly very good for the soil and the environment. Be sure to repeat that as often as possible. 🚲👍
(1) Depends on quantity. Compare this to an automobile that uses 30x the product.
(2) It's not oil; the chemical structure is altered completely.
(3) Silca's brand is designed to be incredibly environmentally friendly (compared to virtually all others on the market). Its not carcinogenic nor classed as a PoP.
(4) It's not soil, but rather pavers sitting on top of compacted crushed rock and stone dust / sand
Nice apron. Is a new cook book due out soon?
Good video. Learned a few things. Make sure not to over lubricate your chain, even with a good chain lube; otherwise, it will attract dirt and grit.
I didn't know that Si was a would-be psychologist. I'm impressed by his ability to get someone, (Ollie), to do his bike cleaning.
I use muk off dry lube the c3 and I never have to use a degreaser, pur water pressure takes off everything, even after drying with a cloth, no grease left behind.
What I learned in the past 4 years since I'm cycling and washing my bikes is there is a hidden prerequiste of cycling. Number one rule is to have a house with a garden! 🙂 If u ever washed your bike in the bath u'll learn there is a 2nd wave to clean the bathroom. 😞
before relubing, i would wait and let dry the chain throuroughly after washing, so that any water trapped inside the rollers can completely evaporate.
I really think we need more videos like this, and willing to help by letting Ollie use my dirty bike for it at least once a week. 😊
It is great that we get an update of all the cleaning videos once a new sponsor comes onboard. Don't get me wrong, I love Silca products and understand the economic realities of GCN having to pay their staff. But wow this is so transparent
You can also buy non transparent Silca products!
I don't ride when it's bad out... so my chain doesn't get that dirty.... so i microfiber the chain and then apply DuPont Chain Saver- Wax Based Lubricant that also contains Teflon and Moly for wear protection.... great stuff.... I do that about every 150-200 miles... I use bike chain bio degreaser every once in a great while... keeps the bearings fresh that way...
Us commuters have to ride in nasty conditions! My bike has gone through monsoons, sandstorms, fog, splashes through Icky Goop on commutes. Fancy road bike can stay pristine, but the commute demands rain-or-shine riding.
@@questgivercyradis8462 best you use a wet lube and regular cleaning according to weather....
I use a disposable dollar store tile & grout brush with Simple Green to degrease my chain and cassette. Works just fine for me.
You say to use a "fresh quick link" at 7:20 but is that really useful? The few molecules of metal lost during the quick link removal/return don't come from a spot on the quick link that is under stress while cycling.
I went wax ..... first ride i snapped the chain.... cleanest chain repair ever!
🤣 Was that on a new chain?
Can GCN do a drive chain effieciency test put the bike on a indoor trainer that uses the wheel and pedal using 200 watts then see if 200 watts is measured at the wheels on thr indoor trainer. 1st a dirty drive chain then a clean one
2 best products I’ve found to clean a chain is automotive brake cleaner or diesel
Do degreasers work for waxed chains, or what is the cleaning protocol for waxxed chai s?
In my case, the chain gets two changes of boiling water, and then into strong isopropyl alcohol, and after a quick dry, it's into the wax pot. The chainrings and cassette also get a boil and a wipe down with a clean rag. The jockey pulleys get brushed with a stiff brush; since they are resin (2000 Record and Chorus), I'm concerned they won't handle the heat.
Doesn't seem to matter how much I clean the chain, the second I put lube on it there's black crud all over it again.
Same.
Same. I'll try wax lube next month.
Never use acetone. It could remove the paint from your bike!
Shouldn't i be worried that the degreaser and water might get into the cup & cone bearings?
Finally a dirty chain that gets cleaned!
Surprised though this was Si’s bike. Hasn’t he done some videos about how he quickly cleans his bike after every ride and how easy that is?
Not really related to the video but you sound so similar to Richard Ayoade I find it almost distracting xD Love the content, just getting into biking myself (I've ridden bikes all the time as a kid but not really touched them as an adult before now).
I use a makita leaf blower to dry off
What do you guys do with the dirty cloths or especially the micro fiber towels? Can they just be thrown to the laundry?
Is there a rule of thumb on where to apply the chain lube? I notice Ollie always tends to apply it on the top of the chain which is opposite of where the chain connects to the sprockets but I've seen other presenters like Alex apply the lube on the other side (video reference - 'Easy & Effective On-The-Bike Chain cleaning!')
Good tip on cross chaining to open the links big sprocket big gear.
Great video, but I'd add one more thing though: allow your chain to dry fully before applying your wax or grease. Water still trapped inside the links may prevent proper distribution of your lubricant or the lubricant may accidentally seal in the water. I'd say a few good hours in the sun or indoors overnight should do.
can you please share some ideas of how to own an expensive bike with a small house? especially, that we don't want to park an expensive bike outside under the rain and the stun.
I purchased a 3L Vevor ultrasonic cleaner. I will never go back to cleaning a chain on the bike. While I am washing up the rest of the bike, I toss the chain and cassette in the ultrasonic cleaner, rinse/dry it and lube it. The chain looks like it is brand new again. You may have to change your master link more often this way but you have a very clean chain each time.
nice tip! Out of interest, how long does that ultrasonic chain cleaning process take? Thanks!
@@gcntech I did the same but a 6L ultrasonic cleaner which is easier for cleaning the cassette. My first try I did 30 minutes for the chain and the cassette. That was overkill.
This last time I did 12 minutes for the chain with very hot water. I wax my chain so the cassette didn't look dirty enough to need a deep clean. I' guessing I'll clean the cassette once every 1000 miles or so.
OH. I also did shake the chain in a jar for a minute in mineral oil and then acetone. After I was done I think it would have better to just have a degreaser.
Also please suggest drying the cassette off with a leaf blower. It is easy and water is the devil to anything steel. Maybe water should have been Kryptonite for the Man of Steel.
I notice in the United States we are taught it is very important to take the wheel off the bike when cleaning the cassettes and tilt the wheels towards the grounds in order to not allow degreaser and contaminates to get into the free hub. But I notice in Tour de France bike cleans and lots of European videos no one tilts the wheels and even cleans the cassettes with wheels still attached to the bike. I guess the fear of contaminating the free hub is not that big of an issue after all?
I cleaned and lube the chain after each ride and being that the grease is biodegradable, I don't need a cleaner, it comes right off with a hose. I use ceramic grease.
Mineral Spirits! Best choice
Can you use this stuff to clean your breaks as well?
My tip is:
*Always* cover the brake disc somehow and wear some cheap eye protector glasses, and Workshop apron or old clothes if you do that.
Wipe chain with a rag. Apply oil if needed. As recommended by the world's largest chain manufacturer. Plus you save a lot of money and time and you save the environment from some nasty chemicals. It works.
Silca ceramic for the win!
Watch your disc brake while cleaning. Any contamine can splash to it and it will cause greasing the disk and brake not working well. You can cover the disc with something while cleaning.
Cleaning the chain is most needed in winter. Exactly at that time when a garden hose is not available for winter-related reasons. Hmmmm.
'Visitors Spaces' in the background tells me Ollie is talking about chains in prisons!
There are other places too where you can have fun with chains
It's actually the cycling illuminati head quarters 😉
@@gcntech CIHQ or with letters re-ordered CHIQ. It all makes sense now.
@@OperationDarkside Hmm🤔🤨 Ah yes . . . Bondage
How come no mention of the mechanical chain scrubber (e.g. blue Park Tool)? It uses the solvent (dish soap works well too) to scrub the chain and even has a magnet to pick up metal wear particles.
I think history is repeating itself: Easy & Effective On-The-Bike Chain Cleaning!
What do you do if you don’t have access to a hose? I live in a apartment
I’ve had really good luck cleaning my chain with the Park Tool Cyclone Chain Scrubber (CM-5.2). When I switched to waxing my chain there was very little debris in the first degreasing.
they are a great bit of kit!
Realy liked the tip abort crosschaning to open links makes alot of sende Will try That.next. time
yep, same here
What if you don't have a hose??
Or even worse, what if you don't have a dirty chain!?
Battery powered power washer can pull water from a bucket. Or you could get an old water fire extinguisher -- basically just a tank you can fill with water and pump up with a bike pump to use as a sprayer.
I never tried this method. I wonder what sound the chain links make and how it feels when moving them after cleaning. I want to her and feel absolutely no grinding at all. Which is why I clean my chains in a pan of hot wax (paraffine) regularly.
How would you clean in when living in a flat?
What Si WD 40 clean and lube does not work.. Shocker
Would this method work for cleaning out sand from the chain without taking it off the bike? Would dish soap be an acceptable degreaser?
my method: every 100km i just wipe the chain with dry rag, and reaply oil and wipe off excess, one a week i use degreaser (mafrasol, diluted 10% in sprayer) when cleaning the whole bike
after every ride in rain i just wipe the chain clean and reaply the oil. i hate damn snake oils, and some of the bike oils are just wtf expensive with no proven benefits: i hope u know some of those can cost 300euro per liter :) so i test use left over fresh Manual car gear oil (total 75w90)... after 2000km there is NO MEASURABLE WEAR yet... and i ride my bike commute in every weather so i get alot of wet riding and dirt on my bike ( i do use mudguards it helps a little), guys do not overcomplicate. the gear oil will atract dirt, that is for sure, but i still cant tell the diffrence with using muck off wet lube... and that cost like 20x more :) how hard is to wipe the chain and reaply oil very 100km :) it is like 2 min job
If you ride frequently, and care about your chain / drivechain, then SILCA (RUclips channel SILCA velo) and zero friction cycling are amazing resources. They do a deep dive into how and why components wear, the major shortcomings (and deceptive practices) of traditional lubricant brands, and why you should consider investing a little more to extend the life of your components over 200-300%. People suggesting WD40, acetone, and heavy grease on the drivechain can honestly find a rock to climb under.
I'm going to give them a try, good links can really help people.
Thanks for the video
it's very funny to talk about "saving money on a chain" when you have a bike which costs $5-6K :)
R u dumb were you not listening?! it’s not his bike he said! 🤣
Isn´t it just easier to take / remove the chain from the bike and clean the chain separately ? And the take the back wheel from bike and rinse the cassette seperatly?
I've been curious, i've seen other videos clean their bikes this way. How does the degreaser NOT get into the hubs?
Good thing dirtying the Visitor Space area 😊
Hi, I have your road bike mainance book and wondered if you are planning to make one for track bikes. Keeup up the good work :)