Another mistake: buying all the specialty 'bike only' cleaning stuff when you have dawn dish soap at home. You can bring water and a spray bottle with water/soap in it if you need to clean it while out. Also, use automotive wax/sealant on your clean paint. It's stronger and more durable and you have it lying around anyway. Using regular ass soap and wax, my bikes have lasted many years without any dullness in paint or issues with contamination or whatever. It's not rocket appliance...
One of my favorite quote when I used to work in a bike shop, a customer came in complaining that his brakes didn't work. It was quite obvious he'd sprayed somethong oily on them so I asked if he'd used WD40 on them. He answered quite angrily "No! It was GT85!"
Had a buddy that did that and he asked me if I wanted any. I told him no and proceeded on the ride with them, got quite a laugh when they couldn't stop on the bike trails
Except if you use just enough, also you wanna have dry weather lube. Dry weather lube will wash away in the rain but it prevents you from picking up sand and whatnot inside the chain. While the chain can better be dry than have lube with sand in it, this is the best solution. Just gotta lube up you chain after every time it rains but that takes like 5secs, I do 5.000 km with a chain, easily. Then they be at 0.5 and I actually only have to change my chains at 0.75, doing it at 0.5 means I lasts way longer with the chain-teeth. It is kinda funny because there goes a whole science with it and if you follow it you last forever with a chain and the chain-teeth.
To clean disk brake rotors use isopropyl alcohol. You can also make your own chain degreaser cheaply, most specific bike cleaning stuff is very expensive and a bit of a con.
@@henrlima87 Yeah break cleaners have the same alcohol in it i think, for me at least i have iso at home since i use it to clean computer parts and it can be bought in alot more places like. Don't forget to check the pads at the same time and give them a clean :)
Too much bike washing does more damage then good. There is no way you are keeping out all that dirt no matter how much time you spend cleaning unless you take the whole thing apart and clean each piece in a parts cleaner bath. I owned a company that sold lubricants for large equipment. Lubricant is designed to keep dirt in suspension. The most important thing you can do is keep lube on your chain and gears and basically keep water away from the sealed areas. Granted it has its limits so knock off the big chunks of dirt and then make sure you have lots of lube. You can't really have too much lube either. I use an inexpensive chain oil/grease. What isn't being used will not get in the way and it will help keep out dirt. Each time you clean your bike chances are you just push more dirt into the moving joints. So don't be afraid to ride with a little dirt. Also, it saves you time. I have been biking for over 30 years. Wear from dirt is the least of the problems with my mountain bikes. Crashing and flying sticks is where the damage comes from 😆. Also, I wonder if these guys are trying to sell specific bike items that don't need to be specific to bikes. Also, the reason they make mountain bikes with a finish that is a different color than the underlying metal is so they can sell more bikes. Unless your rides are very boring mountain bikes are going to get scratched. So finish paint should match the undercoat and/or the metal it is made of. Bikes would look good much longer if they just had some kind of clear coat over the metal.
I only concentrate on drivetrain and suspension by now. No point in cleaning the frame after every ride just for it to get dirty with the next. I've got a ptotective layer of dirt now.
A "protective layer of dirt" isn't actually very good for anything because it traps moisture and holds it against the bike (or car) when it gets wet. Even worse if you ride on the road in the winter when the roads are salted as you're just soaking it in mild saltwater at that point. A thick layer of dirt anywhere takes days to dry out completely.
I maintain bikes as a hoppy charging only when replacement parts are required my work comes with a free wash I wash the bike in fairy liquid white vinegar leave it in the sun to dry then lube all moving parts no complaints yet proper job
Brake cleaners don't leave a preventive "barrier", they evaporate immediately leaving no residue, it's the whole point! At least the automotive ones I use.
I've been mountain biking now for over 20 years and I've never done the water displacing spray on any of my bikes... I've owned each of my bikes for 5+ years and I'm probably the worst at lubing and cleaning them. Yet, I've never had any major issues as a result. All of my bikes looked amazing when I sold them and we're in excellent shape mechanically. I really don't like the idea of dousing the bike with a WD spray to attract more dirt and dust.
@Vince Jr This channel has a lot of good advise that's helped me in a few situations, maybe it can help you too. I just don't agree with them on the WD spray dousing after every ride.
Think it depends where you are in the world, I studied in western part of norway and the chain and drivetrain would be reckt with rust after a days ride. When I went home to the eastern part I suddendly dont have the same need to wash the drivetrain after every ride.
@@Zimmerh90 Sure, I agree that cleaning and immediately lubricating your chain is an essential step in maintenance after a hard ride. This is especially true when it's wet out or muddy. However, the point I was protesting was dousing the ENTIRE bike in a WD spray post ride. I really don't think this is necessary, nor good for the components as it will attract more dust and grime. I know lots of friends who ride on the East coast where the air is very corrosive from the sea, and they don't follow this WD dousing step (and lack subsequent major rust).
When I want to really clean my chain I take it off and have in a ultrasound bath filled with degreaser/cleaner. It's so zen to see the clouds of fine dirt appear out of each link.
One may has to replace the pads after a mistake with an oily substance, but NEVER the Rotors. Since they are solid (and not tempered, like the pads that soak up substances) it's possible to totally free them again from any friction-reducing substance.
Seen Gee On his dream build series doing the whole spray the whole bike down with polish! Commented several times he still does it! gets right on my nerves he might have specific spray that doesn’t contaminate brakes but how many people must copy him and wreck brand new pads and rotors!
Bonus cleaning tip... If you have a chance, wipe your dropper post before dropping it (Obviously during a major run you may not have a chance, but if your just enjoying yourself and have a sec (I can get away with a wipe with my glove while still riding) it will help keep dust/muck from getting inside that dropper. As for general cleaning... I found truck wash (CT18 personally) at about 30-1 mix BEFORE you ride, then wash of, and re-apply at the bottom of a particularly muddy park, then wash at home... and my bike looks like it's been cleaned with a brush even tho nothing but water has yet touched it. (The pre application sits UNDER the mud and makes removal easy). I have not had any issues with truck wash on any parts and I have used it for years on my motorbikes with alloy radiators etc... Hint.. Anything involving trucks HAS to be good... would YOU want to anger truck drivers... Bonus hint.. want value for $ meals... Try Truck stops... Same reason... (ok real food, not painted plate food... Dad always hated food where it looked like the chef just signed his name in sauce on an empty plate) You can use a power washer (Water Blaster) on a bike. Just keep clear of the pivot points, steering head and crank... I power wash my chain, but I make sure I let it dry and re-lube the joints well... (Actually the best way is remove, complete clean, then soak in hot chain lube to dispel all air/moisture, then clean off all lube from the exterior of the chain as only lube inside the joints/rollers and between the outer and inner plates .. but who's got time for that Best chain lube is dry wax type if you can apply it correctly, as it tends not to pick up dirt/dust like wet lube does. (Having said that I have free HSS2000 so meh..) Brake pads and oil is NOT game over... but you have to do a PROPER job of cleaning. Remove the pads, Brake clean the caliper and disk. Brake clean the pads, dry with paper towel, rinse/repeat... Put the pads in a tiny jar with meths, shake, Brake clean again etc... Once the pads are back to the powdery clean colour they were when new, away you go... I started my channel when I got a 2nd hand bike with soaked pads (They were black and oily to the touch, and squealed like a supporting role in Deliverance (fitting as that's the name of the track I run it on in one of the 1st videos... )) I cleaned them as above, and near 3 years later, still 1 finger breaking on the same 2nd hand pads (replaced the rotor once with... a 2nd hand one... :-) (Note, I have been cleaning brake pads on my motor Trail bikes (YZ250 etc) for near 30 years... It's what its made for... and SOOOOOO MUCH MORE... Better than degreaser etc.! (I'm also a maintenance engineer). Uhhh disk brake cleaner does NOT leave a barrier... it removes EVERYTHING including itself (a bit like Isopropyl... which is hygroscopic so be careful to dry brake internals if cleaning them in a service... as Isopropyl attracts water as it evaporates) At least throw a rag over your disk/caliper while spray lubing nearby. Clean your rotor/caliper on the bike after any chain/derailleur lubing and you'll b good. I give my disks a brake clean spray after any wash just for the hellovit.
3:03 just remove the disk and soak it in alcohol and scrub it without removing it a day later, flip it and a couple hours later scrub it again without it coming out of the alcohol even once!! [outside of flipping it] You will be down to bear metal and they will work like new (sealed container) But new pads needed
I once contaminated my brakes with silicone shine and i was told that i needed a whole new set of pads and rotors but i eventually just burnt it out and there fine now.
Yeah I thought the new stuff was a scam so I boiled my pads and tried breaking them away but it didn’t work. Luckily I didn’t need a new disc just the pads.
Car shampoo with a shoe brush are my staple diet for cleaning. Maybe the added wax in the shampoo isn't the best for disc brakes but 14 years on using this formular does it for me 😁
Honestly I just use a gentle dish detergent, great at stripping grease and mud, no harsh chemicals to damage sensitive parts or waxes to mess with your brakes.
Fairy sprayed on in a dilution with a combo of soft brush and rag for general washing with a light spray of water by hose to rinse followed by a combination of WD40 on some bits with paper toweling to dry those bits off and a old towel to dry the rest. Brake cleaner after wards and lube for drive train. Mr Sheen sprayed onto a lint free cloth for frame polishing. Usually a quick rinse sees me through with a wash every week or if it is really caked but I don't live in dry sunny England so my bike doesn't get quite as messy as yours.
I don't clean my bike with proper cleaner, just do the Houdini an lube the next day. My bike is just a bike (4 years now, no major issues) and I like to keep the environment washing tensid free...
3:15 don't replace your disc rotors if you get oil on them! It's such a waste otherwise. In contrast to the pads, they don't get soaked, you can just clean them.
simple green (soap brand) and a toilet brush. Terry cloth towel for the chain. I don't have access to water all the time, so its ginger wipe with a brush and towel - I don't ride in mud. I am a commuter.
Ja ne mogu da vjerujem sta sam upravo pogledao... Vecu kolicinu gluposti odavno nisam cuo. Ja odvezem bicikl na samousluznu, isperem dobro lanac, kasetu i mjenjac, pripazim da ne isperem lezajeve na tockovima. Osusim na promaji ili napolju, kad krenem na sledecu voznju podmazem lanac i pmalo mjenjac na tockicima i zglobovima i to je to. Jedini problem koji se desavao je da isperem lezajeve na tockovima. Ova njegova prica je za malu djecu i reklama za preskupe proizvode za ciscenje i ostalo.
I have success getting disc pads clean by using a little dish soap in warm water in my hypersonic cleaner. I have tried everything before from sanding, to alcohol to other cleaners which never worked and ultimately had to get new pads. Supply chain shortages caused me to improvise and find this method. Now I’m glad I couldn’t find replacement pads!
Careful with the simple green though. It can corrode aluminum parts (maybe steel too, I don't remember) and is actually banned from use on aircraft because of this.
I’ve Invis protected my bikes from new, once cleaned use Koch Chemie protector wax in a foam pump sprayer everywhere except brakes, lube chainset as normal. Cheap easy maintenance.
best thing I've done fairly recently is lubing my chain with a wax chain lube...it attracts virtually no dirt/dust and lasts a long time between reapplications. Not only is my chain cleaner, but same with the cassette, rear D pulleys and main chain ring. I expect it will extend the life of drive train in general as well.
I have a suspicion that the contaminat your brakes part deux is in response to another bike maintenence channel, who shall remain nameless, that always seem to spray silicon detailing spray over bikes including braking surfaces.
I use mineral spirits on the drive train. The rest I use diluted grease lightning, I use a plastic hair net cover over the brake disc and caliper..I clean the rotors with Everclear.
I love how detailed this video is! What instructions would you recommend for those of us who ride in very dry dusty desert conditions? I ride in areas that are rocky but also leave thick layers of very fine, chalky dust all over everything on the bike. I'm sure it works its way past the seals on the fork & rear shock over time as well.
You can get cans of air. Sounds rediculous I know! Any pound/dollar/euro shop depending where you are. It's used for smoke alarms and computer keyboards usually, works around components for dust, too.
Cans of air are good but they don't last at all. Probably for dusty areas, saving kidney in the long run would be to get those electric portable dusters used for computers and dusters. They're inexpensive and rechargeable. Most last 30 mins. Decently powerful for the duration. By that time probably get a cheap portable air compressor to leave at home. These have multi use and will save money in the long run. The benefit of those cans though, they're lighter and cheaper per can.
Simple Green has been my go to for decades. A Sparkling bike is..ok but a well loved riden bike has some dirt. But a Clean driveline is a Happy driveline. Bikes are most happy with Terra from last Memorable ride.. Bike Whisperer..💪
After a wash, I use a car wax and dry on the frame, cheaper than bike specific polish. Makes washing the dirt off next ride easier with light water spray.
Top tip:- get some disc brake cleaning and spray down the drive train and brakes before and after you wash, it’s basically the same thing as a water displaced but it doesn’t contaminate your brake discs and pads
Did you try a simple and cheap kerosene? Works better as a solvent and leaves less oil residue IMO. Overall I'd agree that it works OK, if you remove the chain before putting WD on a drivetrain. Otherwise I find that washing out the oil from the chain on the drivetrain with WD is not a good experience, as at the end oil resides there, and it's not really needed there, it just collects extra dust later on. But if some oil gets on the drivetrain one can use some carburetor & choke cleaner on the drivetrain as it kills any oil residue completely. I actually use this stuff on my handgun when I need to change the lube after burning hundreds of rounds through it. Works wonders, a mix of gunpowder residue and oil is a much tougher thing to clean than some bike dirt and this thing blasts it off like nothing leaving metal absolutely dry.
Do NOT use pressure washers you find at a car wash for cleaning bikes (or motorcycles). Pressure washers WILL push water through seals and into bearings, hubs, chain links, etc... . After "correct" washing methods shown here, any mechanic will curse and start disassemblying a bike. If you use water, it should preferrably be free flowing, like from a hose with no dispersion head. If a pressure is too strong for you to take a comfortable shower under, it means you risk contaminating all sealed parts.
Excellent information. I had no idea the value of WD for cleaning the drive components. I will use this tip the next time I clean my bike. Especially the chain to get the gunk out before drying and relubricating. Thanks,
Pressure washers or water jets from hose pipes are fatal for cycles as it forces all the crap and water into bearings and electrics on e-bikes. Use the mist function from a mains pressure hose pipe a set of brushes and a sponge then dry it with microfibre cloths.
Can you elaborate on how exactly your brakes are ruined by getting something like silicone on them? Can't the disks just be cleaned afterwards? Or are we talking about the pads and/or mechanism? Seems like if this is such a common problem, all new bikes should come with a huge warning tag attached to the brakes with explicit instructions on how to care for them and what NOT to do.
Everything you have just mentions not to do in this video I have masterfully already done!.. Homer from the Simpsons crystallized how I feel right now with his wise words passed down through the ages.. Doh!!
What water displaced do you use? WD40 is the obvious choice, but that is also a lubricant and I don’t want to put that on my chain, when I’m going to put a dedicated chain lube on it.
Honestly I wouldn't use WD40 on anything except maybe the cassette to displace what water that's hiding (cover the brake with a towel). Use a real chain lubricant on the chain it lasts allot longer. WD40 will only last a few days at the most and will wear out your chain faster. WD40 is only good for cleaning not lubricating, since what lubricants are there evaporate after a few days at the most. Learned that the hard way as a kid who would use it to clean and lubricate my rollerblade bearings back in the early 90's. I had no clue what I was doing back then.
I know I'm not Doddy, but please don't do that, it was not a really practical advice, see other comments. WD is typically kerosene, e.g. WD-40 is same kerosene-based but costs a fortune, not talking about "bike-specialized" rip-offs. It's just a solvent and the thing is, it brings more problems with cleaning afterwards than benefits for preserving for one extra day. Just don't be lazy and use water, soap, dry out with cloth and lubricate the chain. It will save you from the WD aftermath. I just can't imagine the horror of getting oil residue cleaned out of everywhere (kerosene will act like a solvent and redistribute the leftover lube uniformly everywhere it gets to), literally every dust particle in your vicinity will stick to your drivetrain afterwards as it will be covered with oil from the chain. Unless you remove the chain and you are completely sure that there is no lube anywhere else on your bike where kerosene will get to, that's a bad decision..
The video starts off saying rinse your bike before you begin the cleaning process so you don't ruin your paint work. Less than a minute later at the 1:02 mark someone is shown using a brush on a very muddy bike that has not been rinsed. 😮 I would add that, I have always rinsed my bikes from the top as opposed to spraying from the side. I think this technique helps keep grit out of the bearings.
i NEVER had a bike this dirty .. and i promiss neither have anyone in the comments haha, but ty for showing the extreme cleaning.. the "hurts me when people ruin the paint by ju scrubbing" and proceed to show 1:00
I don't like to hose down a bike. I wipe the frame off with a mild cleaner and the same for the tires and rims. I use automotive brake rotor cleaner on the rotors. I take a fine grit sandpaper to the brake pads. I wipe the chain and derailleur with some degreaser on a rag and then recoat them with a Three in one style oil as I find that the light spray oils just evaporate . If I get caught out in the rain often I regrease the hubs at seasons end and then , maybe , the bottom bracket. Might leave the bottom bracket until next season.
If its hella muddy, ill spray it down. Dry it then, give it a wipe to dry with some isopropyl alcohol. Otherwise if its just lighty dirty a quick wipe with isopropyl alchol does the trick. Paint looks as good as when i got it. Quick and easy 5min clean, no risk of brake contamination. And a 500ml bottle lasts forever. Not to mention its safe to use on almost every component.
I've had my bike for 10 years and it is still as clean as the day I bought it. I've NEVER had to clean it, other than the occasional wipe with a dry cloth to get the dust of. WHERE do some of these people actually ride their bikes to get them into that sort of state?
I love this I look after my giant xtc 4 very well every ride I come back and it’s in that bath with the shower and after it gets dried with the Mrs hair dryer then re lube and grease 😂
How clean do you keep your bike? 🧽 👇
Shiny clean
A helluva lot cleaner than my car.
I was like 12 years old when my bmx breaks started to squeak, so I oiled the breaks... It was my first time riding breakless.
Always rinse Apart from that Nothing lol
Hey guys! Can you put a link for the water displacement spray? thanks ;)
Cheap shower hats work great for covering the brakes when cleaning
👍
Thank you!
I don't own a MTN bike with disc brakes & my bike isn't dirty after each run, but I like your shower cap idea.
That's a great hack, thank you
That’s awesome! Thanks bud 😄
Another mistake: buying all the specialty 'bike only' cleaning stuff when you have dawn dish soap at home. You can bring water and a spray bottle with water/soap in it if you need to clean it while out. Also, use automotive wax/sealant on your clean paint. It's stronger and more durable and you have it lying around anyway. Using regular ass soap and wax, my bikes have lasted many years without any dullness in paint or issues with contamination or whatever. It's not rocket appliance...
One of my favorite quote when I used to work in a bike shop, a customer came in complaining that his brakes didn't work. It was quite obvious he'd sprayed somethong oily on them so I asked if he'd used WD40 on them. He answered quite angrily "No! It was GT85!"
Had a buddy that did that and he asked me if I wanted any. I told him no and proceeded on the ride with them, got quite a laugh when they couldn't stop on the bike trails
@@Cobyc5150 with friends like that, who needs enemies.
So WD40 is not good for the brakes?
@@juanjosereyes3340 You don't want any kind of lubricant or cleaner on your brake surfaces.
other than brake cleaner :)
When 'lubing' your chain, you should always wipe it clean afterwards, otherwisw you'll just collect even more 'gunk' to the chain..
Except if you use just enough, also you wanna have dry weather lube.
Dry weather lube will wash away in the rain but it prevents you from picking up sand and whatnot inside the chain.
While the chain can better be dry than have lube with sand in it, this is the best solution.
Just gotta lube up you chain after every time it rains but that takes like 5secs, I do 5.000 km with a chain, easily.
Then they be at 0.5 and I actually only have to change my chains at 0.75, doing it at 0.5 means I lasts way longer with the chain-teeth.
It is kinda funny because there goes a whole science with it and if you follow it you last forever with a chain and the chain-teeth.
To clean disk brake rotors use isopropyl alcohol. You can also make your own chain degreaser cheaply, most specific bike cleaning stuff is very expensive and a bit of a con.
I think auto brake cleaner also works perfect. Its what its designed for and its pretty cheap. A 500ml can is like 5bucks.
@@henrlima87 Yeah break cleaners have the same alcohol in it i think, for me at least i have iso at home since i use it to clean computer parts and it can be bought in alot more places like.
Don't forget to check the pads at the same time and give them a clean :)
Uhhh I used dish soap, it certainly worked
Any degreaser cleaner will work fine, just rinse them well after
@@henrlima87 only if you want to destroy your paint job, brake cleaner will strip the finish right off your frame.
That little bird at 6:20 put a huge smile on my face.
What a cute moment haha
Hey, it's stable advice... So stable, even birds can perch on it.
Too much bike washing does more damage then good. There is no way you are keeping out all that dirt no matter how much time you spend cleaning unless you take the whole thing apart and clean each piece in a parts cleaner bath. I owned a company that sold lubricants for large equipment. Lubricant is designed to keep dirt in suspension. The most important thing you can do is keep lube on your chain and gears and basically keep water away from the sealed areas. Granted it has its limits so knock off the big chunks of dirt and then make sure you have lots of lube. You can't really have too much lube either. I use an inexpensive chain oil/grease. What isn't being used will not get in the way and it will help keep out dirt. Each time you clean your bike chances are you just push more dirt into the moving joints. So don't be afraid to ride with a little dirt. Also, it saves you time. I have been biking for over 30 years. Wear from dirt is the least of the problems with my mountain bikes. Crashing and flying sticks is where the damage comes from 😆. Also, I wonder if these guys are trying to sell specific bike items that don't need to be specific to bikes.
Also, the reason they make mountain bikes with a finish that is a different color than the underlying metal is so they can sell more bikes. Unless your rides are very boring mountain bikes are going to get scratched. So finish paint should match the undercoat and/or the metal it is made of. Bikes would look good much longer if they just had some kind of clear coat over the metal.
I only concentrate on drivetrain and suspension by now. No point in cleaning the frame after every ride just for it to get dirty with the next. I've got a ptotective layer of dirt now.
A "protective layer of dirt" isn't actually very good for anything because it traps moisture and holds it against the bike (or car) when it gets wet. Even worse if you ride on the road in the winter when the roads are salted as you're just soaking it in mild saltwater at that point. A thick layer of dirt anywhere takes days to dry out completely.
@@SerenaBluee
That's what big bike cleaner wants you to believe😁
I maintain bikes as a hoppy charging only when replacement parts are required my work comes with a free wash I wash the bike in fairy liquid white vinegar leave it in the sun to dry then lube all moving parts no complaints yet proper job
People think the same about their cars.
Dirt holds water and keeps your bodywork (or bike frame) wet and speeds up corrosion a treat.
@@chesteruk
Not if you don't ride in the wet and who wants that, uk excepted.
Brake cleaners don't leave a preventive "barrier", they evaporate immediately leaving no residue, it's the whole point! At least the automotive ones I use.
do you wash them of too?
@snorttroll4379 no, that's the point, it just evaporates and leaves nothing
I've been mountain biking now for over 20 years and I've never done the water displacing spray on any of my bikes... I've owned each of my bikes for 5+ years and I'm probably the worst at lubing and cleaning them. Yet, I've never had any major issues as a result. All of my bikes looked amazing when I sold them and we're in excellent shape mechanically. I really don't like the idea of dousing the bike with a WD spray to attract more dirt and dust.
@Vince Jr yeah these tips arent great
@Vince Jr This channel has a lot of good advise that's helped me in a few situations, maybe it can help you too. I just don't agree with them on the WD spray dousing after every ride.
Less is more , mud is harmless if left alone. I find the bike cleans itself if I use it often and aim for puddles 😀
Think it depends where you are in the world, I studied in western part of norway and the chain and drivetrain would be reckt with rust after a days ride. When I went home to the eastern part I suddendly dont have the same need to wash the drivetrain after every ride.
@@Zimmerh90 Sure, I agree that cleaning and immediately lubricating your chain is an essential step in maintenance after a hard ride. This is especially true when it's wet out or muddy. However, the point I was protesting was dousing the ENTIRE bike in a WD spray post ride. I really don't think this is necessary, nor good for the components as it will attract more dust and grime. I know lots of friends who ride on the East coast where the air is very corrosive from the sea, and they don't follow this WD dousing step (and lack subsequent major rust).
When I want to really clean my chain I take it off and have in a ultrasound bath filled with degreaser/cleaner.
It's so zen to see the clouds of fine dirt appear out of each link.
Damn, now I want a ultrasound bath for my chain..
And you can afford a ultrasonic cleaner how?!
I'm sure you can find on sale items in the usual stores. Mine was less than €50
One may has to replace the pads after a mistake with an oily substance, but NEVER the Rotors. Since they are solid (and not tempered, like the pads that soak up substances) it's possible to totally free them again from any friction-reducing substance.
Exactly what I was thinking
Seen Gee On his dream build series doing the whole spray the whole bike down with polish! Commented several times he still does it! gets right on my nerves he might have specific spray that doesn’t contaminate brakes but how many people must copy him and wreck brand new pads and rotors!
I watched the Scor 4060 build today and this was exactly my thought...
Don’t know with what he is spraying... hope it is not degreaser. Wrecks your bearings completely. Stay away from your cassette/hub!
3:20 Acetone and/or alcohol cleans rotors very well. Bed them in after to burn off the residue, and good as new usually.
'Rinse you bike off so you don't ruin the paint' the very next scene you're then scrubbing the bike with the dirt still on it 😂😂😂
😂 I was thinking the same
Wetting the mud is enough.
It’s not like the mud was dry as a bone so it’s fine to do
Using a brush on the paintwork 😮
Nah it’s fine, he wetted and apply a cleaning product that lift off the mud from the paint.
Most important: Keep your bike helmet on while cleaning your bike. Safety first! 😂
😂
😂
Thanks, going to try cleaning my bike for the first time.
Glad I saw the part about destroying the breaks , cause I had no clue that was a thing!!!
Bonus cleaning tip... If you have a chance, wipe your dropper post before dropping it (Obviously during a major run you may not have a chance, but if your just enjoying yourself and have a sec (I can get away with a wipe with my glove while still riding) it will help keep dust/muck from getting inside that dropper.
As for general cleaning...
I found truck wash (CT18 personally) at about 30-1 mix BEFORE you ride, then wash of, and re-apply at the bottom of a particularly muddy park, then wash at home... and my bike looks like it's been cleaned with a brush even tho nothing but water has yet touched it. (The pre application sits UNDER the mud and makes removal easy).
I have not had any issues with truck wash on any parts and I have used it for years on my motorbikes with alloy radiators etc...
Hint.. Anything involving trucks HAS to be good... would YOU want to anger truck drivers... Bonus hint.. want value for $ meals... Try Truck stops... Same reason... (ok real food, not painted plate food... Dad always hated food where it looked like the chef just signed his name in sauce on an empty plate)
You can use a power washer (Water Blaster) on a bike. Just keep clear of the pivot points, steering head and crank...
I power wash my chain, but I make sure I let it dry and re-lube the joints well... (Actually the best way is remove, complete clean, then soak in hot chain lube to dispel all air/moisture, then clean off all lube from the exterior of the chain as only lube inside the joints/rollers and between the outer and inner plates .. but who's got time for that
Best chain lube is dry wax type if you can apply it correctly, as it tends not to pick up dirt/dust like wet lube does. (Having said that I have free HSS2000 so meh..)
Brake pads and oil is NOT game over... but you have to do a PROPER job of cleaning.
Remove the pads, Brake clean the caliper and disk. Brake clean the pads, dry with paper towel, rinse/repeat... Put the pads in a tiny jar with meths, shake, Brake clean again etc...
Once the pads are back to the powdery clean colour they were when new, away you go... I started my channel when I got a 2nd hand bike with soaked pads (They were black and oily to the touch, and squealed like a supporting role in Deliverance (fitting as that's the name of the track I run it on in one of the 1st videos... ))
I cleaned them as above, and near 3 years later, still 1 finger breaking on the same 2nd hand pads (replaced the rotor once with... a 2nd hand one... :-)
(Note, I have been cleaning brake pads on my motor Trail bikes (YZ250 etc) for near 30 years... It's what its made for... and SOOOOOO MUCH MORE... Better than degreaser etc.! (I'm also a maintenance engineer).
Uhhh disk brake cleaner does NOT leave a barrier... it removes EVERYTHING including itself (a bit like Isopropyl... which is hygroscopic so be careful to dry brake internals if cleaning them in a service... as Isopropyl attracts water as it evaporates) At least throw a rag over your disk/caliper while spray lubing nearby.
Clean your rotor/caliper on the bike after any chain/derailleur lubing and you'll b good. I give my disks a brake clean spray after any wash just for the hellovit.
A bit anal to wipe your tube before sticking it back in 😋 don't you think? Less fun if you have to clean your bike while riding
This whole video is a muc off ad and anyone who thinks it isn’t is stupid. Doddy is a master at product pushing!
Be careful using power washers or car washers on the bike, especially around bearings. They can remove grease and contaminate them with injected dirt.
Exactly. Ruined mine after half a year, only by cleaning it "too much".
3:03 just remove the disk and soak it in alcohol and scrub it without removing it a day later, flip it and a couple hours later scrub it again without it coming out of the alcohol even once!! [outside of flipping it] You will be down to bear metal and they will work like new (sealed container)
But new pads needed
Exactly mate! Changing your rotors just because you can’t clean them properly is a bullsh...😉
Ain't it just easier and more practical to not get the stuff on them in the first place.
I’ve had good luck in the past bringing contaminated pads back around with a propane torch (and a respirator)
What kind of alcohol, single malt, double malt, barrel aged? 🤣
@@bikerdude923 isopropyl… i though that would be so obvious…
Unless your joking in which case you can just ignore this comment
I once contaminated my brakes with silicone shine and i was told that i needed a whole new set of pads and rotors but i eventually just burnt it out and there fine now.
Yeah I thought the new stuff was a scam so I boiled my pads and tried breaking them away but it didn’t work. Luckily I didn’t need a new disc just the pads.
just bought my first mountain bike today thanks for the tips
Car shampoo with a shoe brush are my staple diet for cleaning. Maybe the added wax in the shampoo isn't the best for disc brakes but 14 years on using this formular does it for me 😁
Honestly I just use a gentle dish detergent, great at stripping grease and mud, no harsh chemicals to damage sensitive parts or waxes to mess with your brakes.
I clean contaminated brakes with sandpaper and a bit of nail polish remover... Bed them back in and your good to go.
Fairy sprayed on in a dilution with a combo of soft brush and rag for general washing with a light spray of water by hose to rinse followed by a combination of WD40 on some bits with paper toweling to dry those bits off and a old towel to dry the rest.
Brake cleaner after wards and lube for drive train.
Mr Sheen sprayed onto a lint free cloth for frame polishing.
Usually a quick rinse sees me through with a wash every week or if it is really caked but I don't live in dry sunny England so my bike doesn't get quite as messy as yours.
I was told by Halford's not to use a power hose to clean my bike as the force of the water is to strong and can get into the berrings.
He’s right. But you could adjust the pressure. You certainly don’t need 3,000 psi 😂
I don't clean my bike with proper cleaner, just do the Houdini an lube the next day. My bike is just a bike (4 years now, no major issues) and I like to keep the environment washing tensid free...
I just love when the little bird landed on your handle bars 🐦
perfectly timed birdy visitor to GMBN!
I got the older type MTB frame and I converted the braking system from disc brakes to rim brakes. Rim brakes are amazing.
Indeed! Way simpler to fix yourself, cheaper, and easier to replace any part in the rare event they fail.
I have five bikes, raced for 20 years, never once cleaned my bike. They are all still working just fine. Just did a Tri last weekend...
3:15 don't replace your disc rotors if you get oil on them! It's such a waste otherwise. In contrast to the pads, they don't get soaked, you can just clean them.
simple green (soap brand) and a toilet brush. Terry cloth towel for the chain. I don't have access to water all the time, so its ginger wipe with a brush and towel - I don't ride in mud. I am a commuter.
0:43 drills home the importance of not scrubbing while muddy 1:00 proceeds to scrub the crap out of it while muddy
You get a like for the can flip and catch alone 👏
At 02:16 you properly contaminated rear brake and just after that you talk about how we shouldn't contaminate our brakes! 🤯 Priceless! 😂
Ja ne mogu da vjerujem sta sam upravo pogledao... Vecu kolicinu gluposti odavno nisam cuo. Ja odvezem bicikl na samousluznu, isperem dobro lanac, kasetu i mjenjac, pripazim da ne isperem lezajeve na tockovima. Osusim na promaji ili napolju, kad krenem na sledecu voznju podmazem lanac i pmalo mjenjac na tockicima i zglobovima i to je to. Jedini problem koji se desavao je da isperem lezajeve na tockovima. Ova njegova prica je za malu djecu i reklama za preskupe proizvode za ciscenje i ostalo.
If you want to keep your paint nice - don't use a brush. Do a two bucket method like you do with a car. Snowfoam works well too before rinsing.
Yep. I'd only brush the tires, never the paintwork.
ONR with a microfiber
microfiber cloth/mitt only for the paint
brush for the tires
Oh crap man I just covered my brand new Boardman's disc brakes and the calliper with WD-40 and lube...
Advice that stands up in so many parts of life - make sure yi get it wet before yi start
I have success getting disc pads clean by using a little dish soap in warm water in my hypersonic cleaner. I have tried everything before from sanding, to alcohol to other cleaners which never worked and ultimately had to get new pads. Supply chain shortages caused me to improvise and find this method. Now I’m glad I couldn’t find replacement pads!
I dunno about this water displacer idea… better without I think. Dry is better than greasy.
simple green to clean. compressed air to blow out the chain after cleaning
Careful with the simple green though. It can corrode aluminum parts (maybe steel too, I don't remember) and is actually banned from use on aircraft because of this.
@@RC-fp1tl wow thanks for the heads up!
You definitely do not want to use simple green on aluminum. It’s pretty much the only thing you can’t use simple green on.
I’ve Invis protected my bikes from new, once cleaned use Koch Chemie protector wax in a foam pump sprayer everywhere except brakes, lube chainset as normal. Cheap easy maintenance.
6:21 Tech Birdy!)
best thing I've done fairly recently is lubing my chain with a wax chain lube...it attracts virtually no dirt/dust and lasts a long time between reapplications. Not only is my chain cleaner, but same with the cassette, rear D pulleys and main chain ring. I expect it will extend the life of drive train in general as well.
What’s the brand on that ?
@@tubeularvids Squirt Chain Lube...make sure to completely degrease your chain b4 application...stuff is awesome!
Take your wheels off. Take the disc off and use elbow grease from lidl. A lot cheaper and better than muck off. You are wellcome
I have a suspicion that the contaminat your brakes part deux is in response to another bike maintenence channel, who shall remain nameless, that always seem to spray silicon detailing spray over bikes including braking surfaces.
Some cleaning sprays have lubricant, careful now, read the label
Very true! 👆
I use mineral spirits on the drive train. The rest I use diluted grease lightning, I use a plastic hair net cover over the brake disc and caliper..I clean the rotors with Everclear.
I’ve used furniture polish to de grease motorbikes back wheels for years, works amazingly 👍
I love how detailed this video is! What instructions would you recommend for those of us who ride in very dry dusty desert conditions? I ride in areas that are rocky but also leave thick layers of very fine, chalky dust all over everything on the bike. I'm sure it works its way past the seals on the fork & rear shock over time as well.
You can get cans of air. Sounds rediculous I know! Any pound/dollar/euro shop depending where you are. It's used for smoke alarms and computer keyboards usually, works around components for dust, too.
@@zackpenhaligon9904 Those definitely work great! I keep a little supply of them with my bike tools.
Cans of air are good but they don't last at all. Probably for dusty areas, saving kidney in the long run would be to get those electric portable dusters used for computers and dusters. They're inexpensive and rechargeable. Most last 30 mins. Decently powerful for the duration. By that time probably get a cheap portable air compressor to leave at home. These have multi use and will save money in the long run. The benefit of those cans though, they're lighter and cheaper per can.
Where I ride even if you use proper cleaning the trails contaminate the brakes I use water nothing else and drip lube
Sorry did they just recommended “water displacement” on a chain? As in WD-40?!!!
Simple Green has been my go to for decades.
A Sparkling bike is..ok
but a well loved riden bike has some dirt.
But a Clean driveline is a Happy driveline.
Bikes are most happy with Terra from last Memorable ride..
Bike Whisperer..💪
When you say water displacement spray do you mean like air spray you would use on computer parts?
After a wash, I use a car wax and dry on the frame, cheaper than bike specific polish. Makes washing the dirt off next ride easier with light water spray.
Top tip:- get some disc brake cleaning and spray down the drive train and brakes before and after you wash, it’s basically the same thing as a water displaced but it doesn’t contaminate your brake discs and pads
Love the way im watching this just after i cleaned my chain by spraying it with chain cleaner an wiping lune on it
I'm a big believer in wd40 . On everything. Except brakes and tires .
Did you try a simple and cheap kerosene? Works better as a solvent and leaves less oil residue IMO. Overall I'd agree that it works OK, if you remove the chain before putting WD on a drivetrain. Otherwise I find that washing out the oil from the chain on the drivetrain with WD is not a good experience, as at the end oil resides there, and it's not really needed there, it just collects extra dust later on.
But if some oil gets on the drivetrain one can use some carburetor & choke cleaner on the drivetrain as it kills any oil residue completely. I actually use this stuff on my handgun when I need to change the lube after burning hundreds of rounds through it. Works wonders, a mix of gunpowder residue and oil is a much tougher thing to clean than some bike dirt and this thing blasts it off like nothing leaving metal absolutely dry.
@@Fiztex553 whatever I want to be cryogeniclly frozen in wd40 . Shit works miracles
After washing sometimes find another scratch ugh!!
This man explaining why my bike is so messed up rn
Do NOT use pressure washers you find at a car wash for cleaning bikes (or motorcycles). Pressure washers WILL push water through seals and into bearings, hubs, chain links, etc... . After "correct" washing methods shown here, any mechanic will curse and start disassemblying a bike. If you use water, it should preferrably be free flowing, like from a hose with no dispersion head. If a pressure is too strong for you to take a comfortable shower under, it means you risk contaminating all sealed parts.
Haha, Donnie was spot looking at the camera “I know you have contaminated your brakes before” 😂
0:42 seconds in you're saying "don't agitate the mud, rinse your bike down before scrubbing", 1:01 you're using a scrubber directly on the mud, wtf?
Agreed! 🤦♂️
yip saw this too.
I know!
Maybe he was showing what NOT to do why he was saying it^^.
Great Video but Im buying an E Bike.
I tend to just have light dirt/dust from road and sidewalks not a real dirt path/off roader.... yet
I’ve heated and lightly sanded contaminated pads before to make them good again. Need a torch and to get them pretty hot.
06:21 bird
Moment of fame! 😂
Well i degreased my rotors and pads with hot water, so far it works perfectly fine and i could see the oil coming out from my brakes.
I found that diskbrake cleaner does the job for my rims too. :D Looks shiny :D
Another tip
Get Invis/ridewrap, best way to protect your bikes paint from scratches by far
Excellent information. I had no idea the value of WD for cleaning the drive components. I will use this tip the next time I clean my bike. Especially the chain to get the gunk out before drying and relubricating. Thanks,
Pressure washers or water jets from hose pipes are fatal for cycles as it forces all the crap and water into bearings and electrics on e-bikes. Use the mist function from a mains pressure hose pipe a set of brushes and a sponge then dry it with microfibre cloths.
Can you elaborate on how exactly your brakes are ruined by getting something like silicone on them? Can't the disks just be cleaned afterwards? Or are we talking about the pads and/or mechanism? Seems like if this is such a common problem, all new bikes should come with a huge warning tag attached to the brakes with explicit instructions on how to care for them and what NOT to do.
Everything you have just mentions not to do in this video I have masterfully already done!.. Homer from the Simpsons crystallized how I feel right now with his wise words passed down through the ages.. Doh!!
i do the whodini wash. i know the results but loose big mud chunks is off atleast then proper clean
I've definitely scratched my bike :)
I think we all know about brake contamination I have done it a fair few times costs fortunes in new brake pads 🤦🏻♂️ 🙄
What water displaced do you use? WD40 is the obvious choice, but that is also a lubricant and I don’t want to put that on my chain, when I’m going to put a dedicated chain lube on it.
Honestly I wouldn't use WD40 on anything except maybe the cassette to displace what water that's hiding (cover the brake with a towel). Use a real chain lubricant on the chain it lasts allot longer. WD40 will only last a few days at the most and will wear out your chain faster. WD40 is only good for cleaning not lubricating, since what lubricants are there evaporate after a few days at the most. Learned that the hard way as a kid who would use it to clean and lubricate my rollerblade bearings back in the early 90's. I had no clue what I was doing back then.
Any tips for those that don't have access to a hose or private outdoor space?
The thumbnail got me, I started cracking up just scrolling by and had to click on it.
MAN WHO MADE EVERY POSSIBLE MISSTAKE TEACHES OTHERS :DDD I NEVE RHAD ANY OF THOSE PROBLEMS.
So when you say water displacer, WD40 and or GT85?
What type of water displacer do you recommend? After the wash, you spray WD on the chain and cassette and any other moving metal parts (minus brakes)?
I know I'm not Doddy, but please don't do that, it was not a really practical advice, see other comments. WD is typically kerosene, e.g. WD-40 is same kerosene-based but costs a fortune, not talking about "bike-specialized" rip-offs. It's just a solvent and the thing is, it brings more problems with cleaning afterwards than benefits for preserving for one extra day. Just don't be lazy and use water, soap, dry out with cloth and lubricate the chain. It will save you from the WD aftermath.
I just can't imagine the horror of getting oil residue cleaned out of everywhere (kerosene will act like a solvent and redistribute the leftover lube uniformly everywhere it gets to), literally every dust particle in your vicinity will stick to your drivetrain afterwards as it will be covered with oil from the chain. Unless you remove the chain and you are completely sure that there is no lube anywhere else on your bike where kerosene will get to, that's a bad decision..
Clean ...
Haven't done that in years
always pop off the chain when cleaning it this helps you to chesk it out for damage too.
The video starts off saying rinse your bike before you begin the cleaning process so you don't ruin your paint work. Less than a minute later at the 1:02 mark someone is shown using a brush on a very muddy bike that has not been rinsed. 😮 I would add that, I have always rinsed my bikes from the top as opposed to spraying from the side. I think this technique helps keep grit out of the bearings.
2:16 I contaminated my wheel bearings using spray like that. It's much safer just to use washing cloth and wipe it.
i NEVER had a bike this dirty .. and i promiss neither have anyone in the comments haha, but ty for showing the extreme cleaning.. the "hurts me when people ruin the paint by ju scrubbing" and proceed to show 1:00
love for the curious robin
Thanks doddy, brilliant 🇬🇧💪😁👊❤️
Even the bird likes GMBN 😍 Nice Video 👌
I don't like to hose down a bike. I wipe the frame off with a mild cleaner and the same for the tires and rims. I use automotive brake rotor cleaner on the rotors. I take a fine grit sandpaper to the brake pads. I wipe the chain and derailleur with some degreaser on a rag and then recoat them with a Three in one style oil as I find that the light spray oils just evaporate . If I get caught out in the rain often I regrease the hubs at seasons end and then , maybe , the bottom bracket. Might leave the bottom bracket until next season.
If the brakes are so delicated ¿Can you just take off the wheels and then wash the entire bike? Also taking care of the brake calipers
@Austen T Davis thanks dude
If its hella muddy, ill spray it down. Dry it then, give it a wipe to dry with some isopropyl alcohol. Otherwise if its just lighty dirty a quick wipe with isopropyl alchol does the trick.
Paint looks as good as when i got it. Quick and easy 5min clean, no risk of brake contamination. And a 500ml bottle lasts forever. Not to mention its safe to use on almost every component.
Thanx
Do u know if automotive brake cleaner is bad or good for bike brakes?
I've had my bike for 10 years and it is still as clean as the day I bought it. I've NEVER had to clean it, other than the occasional wipe with a dry cloth to get the dust of. WHERE do some of these people actually ride their bikes to get them into that sort of state?
I love this I look after my giant xtc 4 very well every ride I come back and it’s in that bath with the shower and after it gets dried with the Mrs hair dryer then re lube and grease 😂