Another mistake: buying all the specialty 'bike only' cleaning stuff when you have dawn dish soap at home. You can bring water and a spray bottle with water/soap in it if you need to clean it while out. Also, use automotive wax/sealant on your clean paint. It's stronger and more durable and you have it lying around anyway. Using regular ass soap and wax, my bikes have lasted many years without any dullness in paint or issues with contamination or whatever. It's not rocket appliance...
Too much bike washing does more damage then good. There is no way you are keeping out all that dirt no matter how much time you spend cleaning unless you take the whole thing apart and clean each piece in a parts cleaner bath. I owned a company that sold lubricants for large equipment. Lubricant is designed to keep dirt in suspension. The most important thing you can do is keep lube on your chain and gears and basically keep water away from the sealed areas. Granted it has its limits so knock off the big chunks of dirt and then make sure you have lots of lube. You can't really have too much lube either. I use an inexpensive chain oil/grease. What isn't being used will not get in the way and it will help keep out dirt. Each time you clean your bike chances are you just push more dirt into the moving joints. So don't be afraid to ride with a little dirt. Also, it saves you time. I have been biking for over 30 years. Wear from dirt is the least of the problems with my mountain bikes. Crashing and flying sticks is where the damage comes from 😆. Also, I wonder if these guys are trying to sell specific bike items that don't need to be specific to bikes. Also, the reason they make mountain bikes with a finish that is a different color than the underlying metal is so they can sell more bikes. Unless your rides are very boring mountain bikes are going to get scratched. So finish paint should match the undercoat and/or the metal it is made of. Bikes would look good much longer if they just had some kind of clear coat over the metal.
One of my favorite quote when I used to work in a bike shop, a customer came in complaining that his brakes didn't work. It was quite obvious he'd sprayed somethong oily on them so I asked if he'd used WD40 on them. He answered quite angrily "No! It was GT85!"
Had a buddy that did that and he asked me if I wanted any. I told him no and proceeded on the ride with them, got quite a laugh when they couldn't stop on the bike trails
I've definitely done the accidental brake contamination. But I've also contaminated my brakes while spraying mosquito repellent on my legs while standing too close to the bike.
@linearswitchguy9593 You don't need to replace the rotors. You can clean them with brake cleaner and remove all the contamination. Only the pads need to be replaced.
I only concentrate on drivetrain and suspension by now. No point in cleaning the frame after every ride just for it to get dirty with the next. I've got a ptotective layer of dirt now.
A "protective layer of dirt" isn't actually very good for anything because it traps moisture and holds it against the bike (or car) when it gets wet. Even worse if you ride on the road in the winter when the roads are salted as you're just soaking it in mild saltwater at that point. A thick layer of dirt anywhere takes days to dry out completely.
I maintain bikes as a hoppy charging only when replacement parts are required my work comes with a free wash I wash the bike in fairy liquid white vinegar leave it in the sun to dry then lube all moving parts no complaints yet proper job
I've been mountain biking now for over 20 years and I've never done the water displacing spray on any of my bikes... I've owned each of my bikes for 5+ years and I'm probably the worst at lubing and cleaning them. Yet, I've never had any major issues as a result. All of my bikes looked amazing when I sold them and we're in excellent shape mechanically. I really don't like the idea of dousing the bike with a WD spray to attract more dirt and dust.
@Vince Jr This channel has a lot of good advise that's helped me in a few situations, maybe it can help you too. I just don't agree with them on the WD spray dousing after every ride.
Think it depends where you are in the world, I studied in western part of norway and the chain and drivetrain would be reckt with rust after a days ride. When I went home to the eastern part I suddendly dont have the same need to wash the drivetrain after every ride.
@@Zimmerh90 Sure, I agree that cleaning and immediately lubricating your chain is an essential step in maintenance after a hard ride. This is especially true when it's wet out or muddy. However, the point I was protesting was dousing the ENTIRE bike in a WD spray post ride. I really don't think this is necessary, nor good for the components as it will attract more dust and grime. I know lots of friends who ride on the East coast where the air is very corrosive from the sea, and they don't follow this WD dousing step (and lack subsequent major rust).
To clean disk brake rotors use isopropyl alcohol. You can also make your own chain degreaser cheaply, most specific bike cleaning stuff is very expensive and a bit of a con.
@@henrlima87 Yeah break cleaners have the same alcohol in it i think, for me at least i have iso at home since i use it to clean computer parts and it can be bought in alot more places like. Don't forget to check the pads at the same time and give them a clean :)
Except if you use just enough, also you wanna have dry weather lube. Dry weather lube will wash away in the rain but it prevents you from picking up sand and whatnot inside the chain. While the chain can better be dry than have lube with sand in it, this is the best solution. Just gotta lube up you chain after every time it rains but that takes like 5secs, I do 5.000 km with a chain, easily. Then they be at 0.5 and I actually only have to change my chains at 0.75, doing it at 0.5 means I lasts way longer with the chain-teeth. It is kinda funny because there goes a whole science with it and if you follow it you last forever with a chain and the chain-teeth.
One may has to replace the pads after a mistake with an oily substance, but NEVER the Rotors. Since they are solid (and not tempered, like the pads that soak up substances) it's possible to totally free them again from any friction-reducing substance.
Brake cleaners don't leave a preventive "barrier", they evaporate immediately leaving no residue, it's the whole point! At least the automotive ones I use.
Seen Gee On his dream build series doing the whole spray the whole bike down with polish! Commented several times he still does it! gets right on my nerves he might have specific spray that doesn’t contaminate brakes but how many people must copy him and wreck brand new pads and rotors!
Bonus cleaning tip... If you have a chance, wipe your dropper post before dropping it (Obviously during a major run you may not have a chance, but if your just enjoying yourself and have a sec (I can get away with a wipe with my glove while still riding) it will help keep dust/muck from getting inside that dropper. As for general cleaning... I found truck wash (CT18 personally) at about 30-1 mix BEFORE you ride, then wash of, and re-apply at the bottom of a particularly muddy park, then wash at home... and my bike looks like it's been cleaned with a brush even tho nothing but water has yet touched it. (The pre application sits UNDER the mud and makes removal easy). I have not had any issues with truck wash on any parts and I have used it for years on my motorbikes with alloy radiators etc... Hint.. Anything involving trucks HAS to be good... would YOU want to anger truck drivers... Bonus hint.. want value for $ meals... Try Truck stops... Same reason... (ok real food, not painted plate food... Dad always hated food where it looked like the chef just signed his name in sauce on an empty plate) You can use a power washer (Water Blaster) on a bike. Just keep clear of the pivot points, steering head and crank... I power wash my chain, but I make sure I let it dry and re-lube the joints well... (Actually the best way is remove, complete clean, then soak in hot chain lube to dispel all air/moisture, then clean off all lube from the exterior of the chain as only lube inside the joints/rollers and between the outer and inner plates .. but who's got time for that Best chain lube is dry wax type if you can apply it correctly, as it tends not to pick up dirt/dust like wet lube does. (Having said that I have free HSS2000 so meh..) Brake pads and oil is NOT game over... but you have to do a PROPER job of cleaning. Remove the pads, Brake clean the caliper and disk. Brake clean the pads, dry with paper towel, rinse/repeat... Put the pads in a tiny jar with meths, shake, Brake clean again etc... Once the pads are back to the powdery clean colour they were when new, away you go... I started my channel when I got a 2nd hand bike with soaked pads (They were black and oily to the touch, and squealed like a supporting role in Deliverance (fitting as that's the name of the track I run it on in one of the 1st videos... )) I cleaned them as above, and near 3 years later, still 1 finger breaking on the same 2nd hand pads (replaced the rotor once with... a 2nd hand one... :-) (Note, I have been cleaning brake pads on my motor Trail bikes (YZ250 etc) for near 30 years... It's what its made for... and SOOOOOO MUCH MORE... Better than degreaser etc.! (I'm also a maintenance engineer). Uhhh disk brake cleaner does NOT leave a barrier... it removes EVERYTHING including itself (a bit like Isopropyl... which is hygroscopic so be careful to dry brake internals if cleaning them in a service... as Isopropyl attracts water as it evaporates) At least throw a rag over your disk/caliper while spray lubing nearby. Clean your rotor/caliper on the bike after any chain/derailleur lubing and you'll b good. I give my disks a brake clean spray after any wash just for the hellovit.
When I want to really clean my chain I take it off and have in a ultrasound bath filled with degreaser/cleaner. It's so zen to see the clouds of fine dirt appear out of each link.
In my experience you don't have to throw things out if you get oil in the disc pads. You just burn it out. Do an easy route with constant gentle brake pressure. The friction will soon get rid of the oil that may have gotten in the pads. A 30 minute loop usually does the trick.
@@winkuli Watched a video where it's suggested you put some muddy water or a bit of grit on your rotors to help speed up this process as well. Not tried it personally but I do ride through horrible terrain anyway 😂
I sometimes sand my pads with sandpaper then clean the rotors with alcohol. May squeal initially but after heating it’s fine. I do like to get that top layer off with sandpaper though
I lightly hose it down (light so mechanism and brakes don't get screwed up) and then I use dish soap and a sponge to scrub bike, then I hose down again and grab a cloth, run chain through it.
Bonus tip. If you work on your own bike repack your bearings with marine grease like what you use on wheel bearings on a boat trailer then you don't have to worry about washing your grease out of your bearings when cleaning your bike.
3:03 just remove the disk and soak it in alcohol and scrub it without removing it a day later, flip it and a couple hours later scrub it again without it coming out of the alcohol even once!! [outside of flipping it] You will be down to bear metal and they will work like new (sealed container) But new pads needed
I don't clean my bike with proper cleaner, just do the Houdini an lube the next day. My bike is just a bike (4 years now, no major issues) and I like to keep the environment washing tensid free...
Yup alcohol for almost everything. I also clean my brake pads with some Dawn or Palmolive and water. I’m sure someone will say it’s wrong but it works for me
I once contaminated my brakes with silicone shine and i was told that i needed a whole new set of pads and rotors but i eventually just burnt it out and there fine now.
Yeah I thought the new stuff was a scam so I boiled my pads and tried breaking them away but it didn’t work. Luckily I didn’t need a new disc just the pads.
Car shampoo with a shoe brush are my staple diet for cleaning. Maybe the added wax in the shampoo isn't the best for disc brakes but 14 years on using this formular does it for me 😁
Honestly I just use a gentle dish detergent, great at stripping grease and mud, no harsh chemicals to damage sensitive parts or waxes to mess with your brakes.
Fairy sprayed on in a dilution with a combo of soft brush and rag for general washing with a light spray of water by hose to rinse followed by a combination of WD40 on some bits with paper toweling to dry those bits off and a old towel to dry the rest. Brake cleaner after wards and lube for drive train. Mr Sheen sprayed onto a lint free cloth for frame polishing. Usually a quick rinse sees me through with a wash every week or if it is really caked but I don't live in dry sunny England so my bike doesn't get quite as messy as yours.
Top tip:- get some disc brake cleaning and spray down the drive train and brakes before and after you wash, it’s basically the same thing as a water displaced but it doesn’t contaminate your brake discs and pads
Ja ne mogu da vjerujem sta sam upravo pogledao... Vecu kolicinu gluposti odavno nisam cuo. Ja odvezem bicikl na samousluznu, isperem dobro lanac, kasetu i mjenjac, pripazim da ne isperem lezajeve na tockovima. Osusim na promaji ili napolju, kad krenem na sledecu voznju podmazem lanac i pmalo mjenjac na tockicima i zglobovima i to je to. Jedini problem koji se desavao je da isperem lezajeve na tockovima. Ova njegova prica je za malu djecu i reklama za preskupe proizvode za ciscenje i ostalo.
And: Do not use a pressure cleaner to close to bearings and sealings! Especial your suspentson sealings do not like it to get shoot with high pressure water. :)
@@dakotatupper3231 he said bearings and sealings. No grooves. The sealings on the fork for example can "break" open and you will get water in the system. With a low/middle pressure washer like the Mucoff one or the Worx I've got this is not a problem
I have success getting disc pads clean by using a little dish soap in warm water in my hypersonic cleaner. I have tried everything before from sanding, to alcohol to other cleaners which never worked and ultimately had to get new pads. Supply chain shortages caused me to improvise and find this method. Now I’m glad I couldn’t find replacement pads!
I love how detailed this video is! What instructions would you recommend for those of us who ride in very dry dusty desert conditions? I ride in areas that are rocky but also leave thick layers of very fine, chalky dust all over everything on the bike. I'm sure it works its way past the seals on the fork & rear shock over time as well.
You can get cans of air. Sounds rediculous I know! Any pound/dollar/euro shop depending where you are. It's used for smoke alarms and computer keyboards usually, works around components for dust, too.
Cans of air are good but they don't last at all. Probably for dusty areas, saving kidney in the long run would be to get those electric portable dusters used for computers and dusters. They're inexpensive and rechargeable. Most last 30 mins. Decently powerful for the duration. By that time probably get a cheap portable air compressor to leave at home. These have multi use and will save money in the long run. The benefit of those cans though, they're lighter and cheaper per can.
3:15 don't replace your disc rotors if you get oil on them! It's such a waste otherwise. In contrast to the pads, they don't get soaked, you can just clean them.
best thing I've done fairly recently is lubing my chain with a wax chain lube...it attracts virtually no dirt/dust and lasts a long time between reapplications. Not only is my chain cleaner, but same with the cassette, rear D pulleys and main chain ring. I expect it will extend the life of drive train in general as well.
After a wash, I use a car wax and dry on the frame, cheaper than bike specific polish. Makes washing the dirt off next ride easier with light water spray.
I have a suspicion that the contaminat your brakes part deux is in response to another bike maintenence channel, who shall remain nameless, that always seem to spray silicon detailing spray over bikes including braking surfaces.
Can't left that little stones and dirt in the chain. It's like sandpaper. I use a chain-cleaner mechanism (box with wheels and brushes) from time to time, to pull all the dirt out. Plenty lubrication after I almost dried the chain (towel + time), is an usual procedure after. BTW: How many times did you try the spray-can trick? 😬
Careful with the simple green though. It can corrode aluminum parts (maybe steel too, I don't remember) and is actually banned from use on aircraft because of this.
I’ve Invis protected my bikes from new, once cleaned use Koch Chemie protector wax in a foam pump sprayer everywhere except brakes, lube chainset as normal. Cheap easy maintenance.
simple green (soap brand) and a toilet brush. Terry cloth towel for the chain. I don't have access to water all the time, so its ginger wipe with a brush and towel - I don't ride in mud. I am a commuter.
Do NOT use pressure washers you find at a car wash for cleaning bikes (or motorcycles). Pressure washers WILL push water through seals and into bearings, hubs, chain links, etc... . After "correct" washing methods shown here, any mechanic will curse and start disassemblying a bike. If you use water, it should preferrably be free flowing, like from a hose with no dispersion head. If a pressure is too strong for you to take a comfortable shower under, it means you risk contaminating all sealed parts.
~Blessed~ as we are 😉 in mountainous Pennsylvania with six months of rain and another six of snowmelt (= 12 months of mud 😝), it feels that I spend more time cleaning my bikes than riding them. 😆Perversely enough, I actually enjoy it.
Simple Green has been my go to for decades. A Sparkling bike is..ok but a well loved riden bike has some dirt. But a Clean driveline is a Happy driveline. Bikes are most happy with Terra from last Memorable ride.. Bike Whisperer..💪
Excellent information. I had no idea the value of WD for cleaning the drive components. I will use this tip the next time I clean my bike. Especially the chain to get the gunk out before drying and relubricating. Thanks,
I remember a friend of mine cleaned his disc rotors with silicon spray, right before we traveled for a race. We had to use sand paper on both the pads and rotors to make them work sufficiently again.
Hey! Is there not a risk of spraying eg WD40 around cassettes and other moving parts where there are ball bearings? That it affects the ball bearing? 🤔 What do you think Doddy?
Typically on mountain bikes you want to use specialized cleaners and especially lubricants. WD40 or any other penetrating oil is a terrible choice for any real mountain bike.
Ball bearings are well hidden under layers of metal and rubber seals. From my experience even short river wading doesn't affect it. But if you spill WD-40 onto brake disc you're gonna be changing the pads, or trying to fry machine oil out of it on a cooking stove.
@@MrLobsterity I guess that makes sense But some parts come with external grease, which the WD40 will probably strip off. I know my derailleur had grease on certain parts when it was installed, using any penetrating oil has to be done with extreme care.
Everything you have just mentions not to do in this video I have masterfully already done!.. Homer from the Simpsons crystallized how I feel right now with his wise words passed down through the ages.. Doh!!
I use mineral spirits on the drive train. The rest I use diluted grease lightning, I use a plastic hair net cover over the brake disc and caliper..I clean the rotors with Everclear.
If its hella muddy, ill spray it down. Dry it then, give it a wipe to dry with some isopropyl alcohol. Otherwise if its just lighty dirty a quick wipe with isopropyl alchol does the trick. Paint looks as good as when i got it. Quick and easy 5min clean, no risk of brake contamination. And a 500ml bottle lasts forever. Not to mention its safe to use on almost every component.
Think he's using the water displacer on the cassette to ensure all the water is gone. Most cassettes are made out of steel and will rust (the two big teeth circles are usually some type of alloy for weight reduction). Just cover up your whole brake with a towel when you do this so it doesn't get contaminated.
I know I'm not Doddy, but please don't do that, it was not a really practical advice, see other comments. WD is typically kerosene, e.g. WD-40 is same kerosene-based but costs a fortune, not talking about "bike-specialized" rip-offs. It's just a solvent and the thing is, it brings more problems with cleaning afterwards than benefits for preserving for one extra day. Just don't be lazy and use water, soap, dry out with cloth and lubricate the chain. It will save you from the WD aftermath. I just can't imagine the horror of getting oil residue cleaned out of everywhere (kerosene will act like a solvent and redistribute the leftover lube uniformly everywhere it gets to), literally every dust particle in your vicinity will stick to your drivetrain afterwards as it will be covered with oil from the chain. Unless you remove the chain and you are completely sure that there is no lube anywhere else on your bike where kerosene will get to, that's a bad decision..
If you want to take extra care to minimize scratches on your paintwork Rinse the bike Spray your cleaner all over the paintwork & let it soak in for a minute Spray off again to remove even more Then one final soak of cleaner and go for your contact wash
Did you try a simple and cheap kerosene? Works better as a solvent and leaves less oil residue IMO. Overall I'd agree that it works OK, if you remove the chain before putting WD on a drivetrain. Otherwise I find that washing out the oil from the chain on the drivetrain with WD is not a good experience, as at the end oil resides there, and it's not really needed there, it just collects extra dust later on. But if some oil gets on the drivetrain one can use some carburetor & choke cleaner on the drivetrain as it kills any oil residue completely. I actually use this stuff on my handgun when I need to change the lube after burning hundreds of rounds through it. Works wonders, a mix of gunpowder residue and oil is a much tougher thing to clean than some bike dirt and this thing blasts it off like nothing leaving metal absolutely dry.
What I do, which is cheap and works fine. You do not need any of the many marketed products... it´s all created needs to sell and people simply fall for it. For brake rotors and pads: for the pads use a 180+ sanding paper once in a while and some chain cleaner/brake cleaner product. For the rotors / discs, use chain / brakes cleaner. Just anything which has no oil really! Bike cleaning? a sponge and a bucket of warm water with a bit of dish washer soap. Then clear it up with a non high pressure hose. Drop the bike a few times to shake the water out of parts, put it on the wind/sun and use a microfiber cloth to get most of the moisture out.
How clean do you keep your bike? 🧽 👇
Shiny clean
A helluva lot cleaner than my car.
I was like 12 years old when my bmx breaks started to squeak, so I oiled the breaks... It was my first time riding breakless.
Always rinse Apart from that Nothing lol
Hey guys! Can you put a link for the water displacement spray? thanks ;)
That little bird at 6:20 put a huge smile on my face.
What a cute moment haha
Hey, it's stable advice... So stable, even birds can perch on it.
Another mistake: buying all the specialty 'bike only' cleaning stuff when you have dawn dish soap at home. You can bring water and a spray bottle with water/soap in it if you need to clean it while out. Also, use automotive wax/sealant on your clean paint. It's stronger and more durable and you have it lying around anyway. Using regular ass soap and wax, my bikes have lasted many years without any dullness in paint or issues with contamination or whatever. It's not rocket appliance...
Cheap shower hats work great for covering the brakes when cleaning
👍
Thank you!
I don't own a MTN bike with disc brakes & my bike isn't dirty after each run, but I like your shower cap idea.
That's a great hack, thank you
That’s awesome! Thanks bud 😄
Too much bike washing does more damage then good. There is no way you are keeping out all that dirt no matter how much time you spend cleaning unless you take the whole thing apart and clean each piece in a parts cleaner bath. I owned a company that sold lubricants for large equipment. Lubricant is designed to keep dirt in suspension. The most important thing you can do is keep lube on your chain and gears and basically keep water away from the sealed areas. Granted it has its limits so knock off the big chunks of dirt and then make sure you have lots of lube. You can't really have too much lube either. I use an inexpensive chain oil/grease. What isn't being used will not get in the way and it will help keep out dirt. Each time you clean your bike chances are you just push more dirt into the moving joints. So don't be afraid to ride with a little dirt. Also, it saves you time. I have been biking for over 30 years. Wear from dirt is the least of the problems with my mountain bikes. Crashing and flying sticks is where the damage comes from 😆. Also, I wonder if these guys are trying to sell specific bike items that don't need to be specific to bikes.
Also, the reason they make mountain bikes with a finish that is a different color than the underlying metal is so they can sell more bikes. Unless your rides are very boring mountain bikes are going to get scratched. So finish paint should match the undercoat and/or the metal it is made of. Bikes would look good much longer if they just had some kind of clear coat over the metal.
One of my favorite quote when I used to work in a bike shop, a customer came in complaining that his brakes didn't work. It was quite obvious he'd sprayed somethong oily on them so I asked if he'd used WD40 on them. He answered quite angrily "No! It was GT85!"
Had a buddy that did that and he asked me if I wanted any. I told him no and proceeded on the ride with them, got quite a laugh when they couldn't stop on the bike trails
@@Cobyc5150 with friends like that, who needs enemies.
So WD40 is not good for the brakes?
@@juanjosereyes3340 You don't want any kind of lubricant or cleaner on your brake surfaces.
other than brake cleaner :)
I've definitely done the accidental brake contamination. But I've also contaminated my brakes while spraying mosquito repellent on my legs while standing too close to the bike.
Well at least your rotors won't get bit...!!! LOL
How did you fix them?
@@ceevenito1883 By replacing the brake pads and brake rotors.
@linearswitchguy9593 You don't need to replace the rotors. You can clean them with brake cleaner and remove all the contamination. Only the pads need to be replaced.
I only concentrate on drivetrain and suspension by now. No point in cleaning the frame after every ride just for it to get dirty with the next. I've got a ptotective layer of dirt now.
A "protective layer of dirt" isn't actually very good for anything because it traps moisture and holds it against the bike (or car) when it gets wet. Even worse if you ride on the road in the winter when the roads are salted as you're just soaking it in mild saltwater at that point. A thick layer of dirt anywhere takes days to dry out completely.
@@SerenaBluee
That's what big bike cleaner wants you to believe😁
I maintain bikes as a hoppy charging only when replacement parts are required my work comes with a free wash I wash the bike in fairy liquid white vinegar leave it in the sun to dry then lube all moving parts no complaints yet proper job
People think the same about their cars.
Dirt holds water and keeps your bodywork (or bike frame) wet and speeds up corrosion a treat.
@@chesteruk
Not if you don't ride in the wet and who wants that, uk excepted.
I've been mountain biking now for over 20 years and I've never done the water displacing spray on any of my bikes... I've owned each of my bikes for 5+ years and I'm probably the worst at lubing and cleaning them. Yet, I've never had any major issues as a result. All of my bikes looked amazing when I sold them and we're in excellent shape mechanically. I really don't like the idea of dousing the bike with a WD spray to attract more dirt and dust.
@Vince Jr yeah these tips arent great
@Vince Jr This channel has a lot of good advise that's helped me in a few situations, maybe it can help you too. I just don't agree with them on the WD spray dousing after every ride.
Less is more , mud is harmless if left alone. I find the bike cleans itself if I use it often and aim for puddles 😀
Think it depends where you are in the world, I studied in western part of norway and the chain and drivetrain would be reckt with rust after a days ride. When I went home to the eastern part I suddendly dont have the same need to wash the drivetrain after every ride.
@@Zimmerh90 Sure, I agree that cleaning and immediately lubricating your chain is an essential step in maintenance after a hard ride. This is especially true when it's wet out or muddy. However, the point I was protesting was dousing the ENTIRE bike in a WD spray post ride. I really don't think this is necessary, nor good for the components as it will attract more dust and grime. I know lots of friends who ride on the East coast where the air is very corrosive from the sea, and they don't follow this WD dousing step (and lack subsequent major rust).
To clean disk brake rotors use isopropyl alcohol. You can also make your own chain degreaser cheaply, most specific bike cleaning stuff is very expensive and a bit of a con.
I think auto brake cleaner also works perfect. Its what its designed for and its pretty cheap. A 500ml can is like 5bucks.
@@henrlima87 Yeah break cleaners have the same alcohol in it i think, for me at least i have iso at home since i use it to clean computer parts and it can be bought in alot more places like.
Don't forget to check the pads at the same time and give them a clean :)
Uhhh I used dish soap, it certainly worked
Any degreaser cleaner will work fine, just rinse them well after
@@henrlima87 only if you want to destroy your paint job, brake cleaner will strip the finish right off your frame.
When 'lubing' your chain, you should always wipe it clean afterwards, otherwisw you'll just collect even more 'gunk' to the chain..
Except if you use just enough, also you wanna have dry weather lube.
Dry weather lube will wash away in the rain but it prevents you from picking up sand and whatnot inside the chain.
While the chain can better be dry than have lube with sand in it, this is the best solution.
Just gotta lube up you chain after every time it rains but that takes like 5secs, I do 5.000 km with a chain, easily.
Then they be at 0.5 and I actually only have to change my chains at 0.75, doing it at 0.5 means I lasts way longer with the chain-teeth.
It is kinda funny because there goes a whole science with it and if you follow it you last forever with a chain and the chain-teeth.
One may has to replace the pads after a mistake with an oily substance, but NEVER the Rotors. Since they are solid (and not tempered, like the pads that soak up substances) it's possible to totally free them again from any friction-reducing substance.
Exactly what I was thinking
Brake cleaners don't leave a preventive "barrier", they evaporate immediately leaving no residue, it's the whole point! At least the automotive ones I use.
do you wash them of too?
@snorttroll4379 no, that's the point, it just evaporates and leaves nothing
3:20 Acetone and/or alcohol cleans rotors very well. Bed them in after to burn off the residue, and good as new usually.
Seen Gee On his dream build series doing the whole spray the whole bike down with polish! Commented several times he still does it! gets right on my nerves he might have specific spray that doesn’t contaminate brakes but how many people must copy him and wreck brand new pads and rotors!
I watched the Scor 4060 build today and this was exactly my thought...
Don’t know with what he is spraying... hope it is not degreaser. Wrecks your bearings completely. Stay away from your cassette/hub!
Bonus cleaning tip... If you have a chance, wipe your dropper post before dropping it (Obviously during a major run you may not have a chance, but if your just enjoying yourself and have a sec (I can get away with a wipe with my glove while still riding) it will help keep dust/muck from getting inside that dropper.
As for general cleaning...
I found truck wash (CT18 personally) at about 30-1 mix BEFORE you ride, then wash of, and re-apply at the bottom of a particularly muddy park, then wash at home... and my bike looks like it's been cleaned with a brush even tho nothing but water has yet touched it. (The pre application sits UNDER the mud and makes removal easy).
I have not had any issues with truck wash on any parts and I have used it for years on my motorbikes with alloy radiators etc...
Hint.. Anything involving trucks HAS to be good... would YOU want to anger truck drivers... Bonus hint.. want value for $ meals... Try Truck stops... Same reason... (ok real food, not painted plate food... Dad always hated food where it looked like the chef just signed his name in sauce on an empty plate)
You can use a power washer (Water Blaster) on a bike. Just keep clear of the pivot points, steering head and crank...
I power wash my chain, but I make sure I let it dry and re-lube the joints well... (Actually the best way is remove, complete clean, then soak in hot chain lube to dispel all air/moisture, then clean off all lube from the exterior of the chain as only lube inside the joints/rollers and between the outer and inner plates .. but who's got time for that
Best chain lube is dry wax type if you can apply it correctly, as it tends not to pick up dirt/dust like wet lube does. (Having said that I have free HSS2000 so meh..)
Brake pads and oil is NOT game over... but you have to do a PROPER job of cleaning.
Remove the pads, Brake clean the caliper and disk. Brake clean the pads, dry with paper towel, rinse/repeat... Put the pads in a tiny jar with meths, shake, Brake clean again etc...
Once the pads are back to the powdery clean colour they were when new, away you go... I started my channel when I got a 2nd hand bike with soaked pads (They were black and oily to the touch, and squealed like a supporting role in Deliverance (fitting as that's the name of the track I run it on in one of the 1st videos... ))
I cleaned them as above, and near 3 years later, still 1 finger breaking on the same 2nd hand pads (replaced the rotor once with... a 2nd hand one... :-)
(Note, I have been cleaning brake pads on my motor Trail bikes (YZ250 etc) for near 30 years... It's what its made for... and SOOOOOO MUCH MORE... Better than degreaser etc.! (I'm also a maintenance engineer).
Uhhh disk brake cleaner does NOT leave a barrier... it removes EVERYTHING including itself (a bit like Isopropyl... which is hygroscopic so be careful to dry brake internals if cleaning them in a service... as Isopropyl attracts water as it evaporates) At least throw a rag over your disk/caliper while spray lubing nearby.
Clean your rotor/caliper on the bike after any chain/derailleur lubing and you'll b good. I give my disks a brake clean spray after any wash just for the hellovit.
A bit anal to wipe your tube before sticking it back in 😋 don't you think? Less fun if you have to clean your bike while riding
When I want to really clean my chain I take it off and have in a ultrasound bath filled with degreaser/cleaner.
It's so zen to see the clouds of fine dirt appear out of each link.
Damn, now I want a ultrasound bath for my chain..
And you can afford a ultrasonic cleaner how?!
I'm sure you can find on sale items in the usual stores. Mine was less than €50
Thanks, going to try cleaning my bike for the first time.
Glad I saw the part about destroying the breaks , cause I had no clue that was a thing!!!
In my experience you don't have to throw things out if you get oil in the disc pads.
You just burn it out. Do an easy route with constant gentle brake pressure.
The friction will soon get rid of the oil that may have gotten in the pads.
A 30 minute loop usually does the trick.
Yup. I somehow oiled my brakes and the next time on a ride I couldn't stop my bike, but eventually the oil just burned out.
@@winkuli Watched a video where it's suggested you put some muddy water or a bit of grit on your rotors to help speed up this process as well. Not tried it personally but I do ride through horrible terrain anyway 😂
That depends on the material of the pad and how long the oil has had time to soak in.
@@allmtbnzscottbrownhill2896 Even if your pads are literally sponges you can give them a soak in solvents to displace any oil.
I sometimes sand my pads with sandpaper then clean the rotors with alcohol. May squeal initially but after heating it’s fine. I do like to get that top layer off with sandpaper though
Be careful using power washers or car washers on the bike, especially around bearings. They can remove grease and contaminate them with injected dirt.
Exactly. Ruined mine after half a year, only by cleaning it "too much".
I lightly hose it down (light so mechanism and brakes don't get screwed up) and then I use dish soap and a sponge to scrub bike, then I hose down again and grab a cloth, run chain through it.
Bonus tip. If you work on your own bike repack your bearings with marine grease like what you use on wheel bearings on a boat trailer then you don't have to worry about washing your grease out of your bearings when cleaning your bike.
Havd you never heard of sealed cartridge bearings
@@mrfrogg46able Never heard of them....
cool story bro
@@mrfrogg46ableseal cartridge bearings are better. That's where they get marine grease from, seals.
You still have to avoid blasting water past bearing seals. Hose gently, folks
3:03 just remove the disk and soak it in alcohol and scrub it without removing it a day later, flip it and a couple hours later scrub it again without it coming out of the alcohol even once!! [outside of flipping it] You will be down to bear metal and they will work like new (sealed container)
But new pads needed
Exactly mate! Changing your rotors just because you can’t clean them properly is a bullsh...😉
Ain't it just easier and more practical to not get the stuff on them in the first place.
I’ve had good luck in the past bringing contaminated pads back around with a propane torch (and a respirator)
What kind of alcohol, single malt, double malt, barrel aged? 🤣
@@bikerdude923 isopropyl… i though that would be so obvious…
Unless your joking in which case you can just ignore this comment
just bought my first mountain bike today thanks for the tips
I don't clean my bike with proper cleaner, just do the Houdini an lube the next day. My bike is just a bike (4 years now, no major issues) and I like to keep the environment washing tensid free...
Just use rubbing alchohol to clean your brake rotors works for me everytime
Yup alcohol for almost everything. I also clean my brake pads with some Dawn or Palmolive and water. I’m sure someone will say it’s wrong but it works for me
I once contaminated my brakes with silicone shine and i was told that i needed a whole new set of pads and rotors but i eventually just burnt it out and there fine now.
Yeah I thought the new stuff was a scam so I boiled my pads and tried breaking them away but it didn’t work. Luckily I didn’t need a new disc just the pads.
Car shampoo with a shoe brush are my staple diet for cleaning. Maybe the added wax in the shampoo isn't the best for disc brakes but 14 years on using this formular does it for me 😁
Honestly I just use a gentle dish detergent, great at stripping grease and mud, no harsh chemicals to damage sensitive parts or waxes to mess with your brakes.
I got the older type MTB frame and I converted the braking system from disc brakes to rim brakes. Rim brakes are amazing.
Indeed! Way simpler to fix yourself, cheaper, and easier to replace any part in the rare event they fail.
Fairy sprayed on in a dilution with a combo of soft brush and rag for general washing with a light spray of water by hose to rinse followed by a combination of WD40 on some bits with paper toweling to dry those bits off and a old towel to dry the rest.
Brake cleaner after wards and lube for drive train.
Mr Sheen sprayed onto a lint free cloth for frame polishing.
Usually a quick rinse sees me through with a wash every week or if it is really caked but I don't live in dry sunny England so my bike doesn't get quite as messy as yours.
'Rinse you bike off so you don't ruin the paint' the very next scene you're then scrubbing the bike with the dirt still on it 😂😂😂
😂 I was thinking the same
Wetting the mud is enough.
It’s not like the mud was dry as a bone so it’s fine to do
Using a brush on the paintwork 😮
Nah it’s fine, he wetted and apply a cleaning product that lift off the mud from the paint.
If you want to keep your paint nice - don't use a brush. Do a two bucket method like you do with a car. Snowfoam works well too before rinsing.
Yep. I'd only brush the tires, never the paintwork.
ONR with a microfiber
microfiber cloth/mitt only for the paint
brush for the tires
I was told by Halford's not to use a power hose to clean my bike as the force of the water is to strong and can get into the berrings.
He’s right. But you could adjust the pressure. You certainly don’t need 3,000 psi 😂
This whole video is a muc off ad and anyone who thinks it isn’t is stupid. Doddy is a master at product pushing!
Top tip:- get some disc brake cleaning and spray down the drive train and brakes before and after you wash, it’s basically the same thing as a water displaced but it doesn’t contaminate your brake discs and pads
At 02:16 you properly contaminated rear brake and just after that you talk about how we shouldn't contaminate our brakes! 🤯 Priceless! 😂
Ja ne mogu da vjerujem sta sam upravo pogledao... Vecu kolicinu gluposti odavno nisam cuo. Ja odvezem bicikl na samousluznu, isperem dobro lanac, kasetu i mjenjac, pripazim da ne isperem lezajeve na tockovima. Osusim na promaji ili napolju, kad krenem na sledecu voznju podmazem lanac i pmalo mjenjac na tockicima i zglobovima i to je to. Jedini problem koji se desavao je da isperem lezajeve na tockovima. Ova njegova prica je za malu djecu i reklama za preskupe proizvode za ciscenje i ostalo.
And: Do not use a pressure cleaner to close to bearings and sealings! Especial your suspentson sealings do not like it to get shoot with high pressure water. :)
Low pressure actually gets into grooves far more than high pressure
@@dakotatupper3231 he said bearings and sealings. No grooves. The sealings on the fork for example can "break" open and you will get water in the system. With a low/middle pressure washer like the Mucoff one or the Worx I've got this is not a problem
Rip
I have success getting disc pads clean by using a little dish soap in warm water in my hypersonic cleaner. I have tried everything before from sanding, to alcohol to other cleaners which never worked and ultimately had to get new pads. Supply chain shortages caused me to improvise and find this method. Now I’m glad I couldn’t find replacement pads!
perfectly timed birdy visitor to GMBN!
I love how detailed this video is! What instructions would you recommend for those of us who ride in very dry dusty desert conditions? I ride in areas that are rocky but also leave thick layers of very fine, chalky dust all over everything on the bike. I'm sure it works its way past the seals on the fork & rear shock over time as well.
You can get cans of air. Sounds rediculous I know! Any pound/dollar/euro shop depending where you are. It's used for smoke alarms and computer keyboards usually, works around components for dust, too.
@@zackpenhaligon9904 Those definitely work great! I keep a little supply of them with my bike tools.
Cans of air are good but they don't last at all. Probably for dusty areas, saving kidney in the long run would be to get those electric portable dusters used for computers and dusters. They're inexpensive and rechargeable. Most last 30 mins. Decently powerful for the duration. By that time probably get a cheap portable air compressor to leave at home. These have multi use and will save money in the long run. The benefit of those cans though, they're lighter and cheaper per can.
Most important: Keep your bike helmet on while cleaning your bike. Safety first! 😂
😂
😂
Take your wheels off. Take the disc off and use elbow grease from lidl. A lot cheaper and better than muck off. You are wellcome
3:15 don't replace your disc rotors if you get oil on them! It's such a waste otherwise. In contrast to the pads, they don't get soaked, you can just clean them.
best thing I've done fairly recently is lubing my chain with a wax chain lube...it attracts virtually no dirt/dust and lasts a long time between reapplications. Not only is my chain cleaner, but same with the cassette, rear D pulleys and main chain ring. I expect it will extend the life of drive train in general as well.
What’s the brand on that ?
@@tubeularvids Squirt Chain Lube...make sure to completely degrease your chain b4 application...stuff is awesome!
I clean contaminated brakes with sandpaper and a bit of nail polish remover... Bed them back in and your good to go.
So important to protect your paint like that, well done! A loved bike always loves you back! 😃😃😃
Well if you contaminate your brakes you will need new pads, but you can just clean the rotors with a good brake cleaner before fitting the new pads.
Advice that stands up in so many parts of life - make sure yi get it wet before yi start
I dunno about this water displacer idea… better without I think. Dry is better than greasy.
I have five bikes, raced for 20 years, never once cleaned my bike. They are all still working just fine. Just did a Tri last weekend...
After a wash, I use a car wax and dry on the frame, cheaper than bike specific polish. Makes washing the dirt off next ride easier with light water spray.
I have a suspicion that the contaminat your brakes part deux is in response to another bike maintenence channel, who shall remain nameless, that always seem to spray silicon detailing spray over bikes including braking surfaces.
Can't left that little stones and dirt in the chain. It's like sandpaper. I use a chain-cleaner mechanism (box with wheels and brushes) from time to time, to pull all the dirt out. Plenty lubrication after I almost dried the chain (towel + time), is an usual procedure after.
BTW: How many times did you try the spray-can trick? 😬
simple green to clean. compressed air to blow out the chain after cleaning
Careful with the simple green though. It can corrode aluminum parts (maybe steel too, I don't remember) and is actually banned from use on aircraft because of this.
@@RC-fp1tl wow thanks for the heads up!
You definitely do not want to use simple green on aluminum. It’s pretty much the only thing you can’t use simple green on.
I’ve Invis protected my bikes from new, once cleaned use Koch Chemie protector wax in a foam pump sprayer everywhere except brakes, lube chainset as normal. Cheap easy maintenance.
I’ve used furniture polish to de grease motorbikes back wheels for years, works amazingly 👍
simple green (soap brand) and a toilet brush. Terry cloth towel for the chain. I don't have access to water all the time, so its ginger wipe with a brush and towel - I don't ride in mud. I am a commuter.
You get a like for the can flip and catch alone 👏
Another tip
Get Invis/ridewrap, best way to protect your bikes paint from scratches by far
Helpful, always learning new things on this topic!
Do NOT use pressure washers you find at a car wash for cleaning bikes (or motorcycles). Pressure washers WILL push water through seals and into bearings, hubs, chain links, etc... . After "correct" washing methods shown here, any mechanic will curse and start disassemblying a bike. If you use water, it should preferrably be free flowing, like from a hose with no dispersion head. If a pressure is too strong for you to take a comfortable shower under, it means you risk contaminating all sealed parts.
Oh crap man I just covered my brand new Boardman's disc brakes and the calliper with WD-40 and lube...
~Blessed~ as we are 😉 in mountainous Pennsylvania with six months of rain and another six of snowmelt (= 12 months of mud 😝), it feels that I spend more time cleaning my bikes than riding them. 😆Perversely enough, I actually enjoy it.
Simple Green has been my go to for decades.
A Sparkling bike is..ok
but a well loved riden bike has some dirt.
But a Clean driveline is a Happy driveline.
Bikes are most happy with Terra from last Memorable ride..
Bike Whisperer..💪
Excellent information. I had no idea the value of WD for cleaning the drive components. I will use this tip the next time I clean my bike. Especially the chain to get the gunk out before drying and relubricating. Thanks,
I remember a friend of mine cleaned his disc rotors with silicon spray, right before we traveled for a race. We had to use sand paper on both the pads and rotors to make them work sufficiently again.
That's crazy!
Hey! Is there not a risk of spraying eg WD40 around cassettes and other moving parts where there are ball bearings? That it affects the ball bearing? 🤔 What do you think Doddy?
Typically on mountain bikes you want to use specialized cleaners and especially lubricants. WD40 or any other penetrating oil is a terrible choice for any real mountain bike.
WD40 won't really affect the ball bearings, but it will break down the grease you have in there. Avoid it anywhere you have grease you want to keep.
Ball bearings are well hidden under layers of metal and rubber seals. From my experience even short river wading doesn't affect it. But if you spill WD-40 onto brake disc you're gonna be changing the pads, or trying to fry machine oil out of it on a cooking stove.
@@MrLobsterity I guess that makes sense But some parts come with external grease, which the WD40 will probably strip off. I know my derailleur had grease on certain parts when it was installed, using any penetrating oil has to be done with extreme care.
@@MrLobsterity I suppose using it on the chain as a water displacer may work.
Everything you have just mentions not to do in this video I have masterfully already done!.. Homer from the Simpsons crystallized how I feel right now with his wise words passed down through the ages.. Doh!!
Well i degreased my rotors and pads with hot water, so far it works perfectly fine and i could see the oil coming out from my brakes.
I use mineral spirits on the drive train. The rest I use diluted grease lightning, I use a plastic hair net cover over the brake disc and caliper..I clean the rotors with Everclear.
Some cleaning sprays have lubricant, careful now, read the label
Very true! 👆
That's instrumental at 4.04 minutes though 🔥🔥
0:43 drills home the importance of not scrubbing while muddy 1:00 proceeds to scrub the crap out of it while muddy
So much respect for your honesty and knowledge
I found that diskbrake cleaner does the job for my rims too. :D Looks shiny :D
lol that bird.
If its hella muddy, ill spray it down. Dry it then, give it a wipe to dry with some isopropyl alcohol. Otherwise if its just lighty dirty a quick wipe with isopropyl alchol does the trick.
Paint looks as good as when i got it. Quick and easy 5min clean, no risk of brake contamination. And a 500ml bottle lasts forever. Not to mention its safe to use on almost every component.
This man explaining why my bike is so messed up rn
Any cleaning tips for super dry desert climates? My bike is always covered in dust.
Could dust it off first with a dry brush before doing any washing
I think we all know about brake contamination I have done it a fair few times costs fortunes in new brake pads 🤦🏻♂️ 🙄
I go mental with the frame shine after a wash, and with rim brakes, they still work a treat!
Rim Brake - really?
Hi, can you share what is the best way to wash and protect a matte/satin finish mtb?
Haha, Donnie was spot looking at the camera “I know you have contaminated your brakes before” 😂
Thank you! So not only do you use degreaser and lube but also water displacer?
Think he's using the water displacer on the cassette to ensure all the water is gone. Most cassettes are made out of steel and will rust (the two big teeth circles are usually some type of alloy for weight reduction). Just cover up your whole brake with a towel when you do this so it doesn't get contaminated.
@@michaelmichaelagnew8503 Thanks for sharing
What type of water displacer do you recommend? After the wash, you spray WD on the chain and cassette and any other moving metal parts (minus brakes)?
I know I'm not Doddy, but please don't do that, it was not a really practical advice, see other comments. WD is typically kerosene, e.g. WD-40 is same kerosene-based but costs a fortune, not talking about "bike-specialized" rip-offs. It's just a solvent and the thing is, it brings more problems with cleaning afterwards than benefits for preserving for one extra day. Just don't be lazy and use water, soap, dry out with cloth and lubricate the chain. It will save you from the WD aftermath.
I just can't imagine the horror of getting oil residue cleaned out of everywhere (kerosene will act like a solvent and redistribute the leftover lube uniformly everywhere it gets to), literally every dust particle in your vicinity will stick to your drivetrain afterwards as it will be covered with oil from the chain. Unless you remove the chain and you are completely sure that there is no lube anywhere else on your bike where kerosene will get to, that's a bad decision..
I experience on the mtb brake contamination on my first mtb
I just love when the little bird landed on your handle bars 🐦
If you want to take extra care to minimize scratches on your paintwork
Rinse the bike
Spray your cleaner all over the paintwork & let it soak in for a minute
Spray off again to remove even more
Then one final soak of cleaner and go for your contact wash
I'm a big believer in wd40 . On everything. Except brakes and tires .
Did you try a simple and cheap kerosene? Works better as a solvent and leaves less oil residue IMO. Overall I'd agree that it works OK, if you remove the chain before putting WD on a drivetrain. Otherwise I find that washing out the oil from the chain on the drivetrain with WD is not a good experience, as at the end oil resides there, and it's not really needed there, it just collects extra dust later on.
But if some oil gets on the drivetrain one can use some carburetor & choke cleaner on the drivetrain as it kills any oil residue completely. I actually use this stuff on my handgun when I need to change the lube after burning hundreds of rounds through it. Works wonders, a mix of gunpowder residue and oil is a much tougher thing to clean than some bike dirt and this thing blasts it off like nothing leaving metal absolutely dry.
@@Fiztex553 whatever I want to be cryogeniclly frozen in wd40 . Shit works miracles
I’ve heated and lightly sanded contaminated pads before to make them good again. Need a torch and to get them pretty hot.
For the most part I just use water and a towel. That's mostly enough to get most of the mess off.
So when you say water displacer, WD40 and or GT85?
When you say water displacement spray do you mean like air spray you would use on computer parts?
Definitely get it nice and wet first!
Where I ride even if you use proper cleaning the trails contaminate the brakes I use water nothing else and drip lube
0:42 seconds in you're saying "don't agitate the mud, rinse your bike down before scrubbing", 1:01 you're using a scrubber directly on the mud, wtf?
Agreed! 🤦♂️
yip saw this too.
I know!
Maybe he was showing what NOT to do why he was saying it^^.
The thumbnail got me, I started cracking up just scrolling by and had to click on it.
6:21 Tech Birdy!)
What I do, which is cheap and works fine. You do not need any of the many marketed products... it´s all created needs to sell and people simply fall for it.
For brake rotors and pads: for the pads use a 180+ sanding paper once in a while and some chain cleaner/brake cleaner product.
For the rotors / discs, use chain / brakes cleaner. Just anything which has no oil really!
Bike cleaning? a sponge and a bucket of warm water with a bit of dish washer soap. Then clear it up with a non high pressure hose.
Drop the bike a few times to shake the water out of parts, put it on the wind/sun and use a microfiber cloth to get most of the moisture out.
After washing sometimes find another scratch ugh!!