One important thing is to carry some tools and learn how to use it. I often go on group rides where people don't carry anything ever and just depend on help from others.
Yeah, sure, pumping the pedals, steering, braking all with one hand, and you throw in “carrying some tools too”? Get a back pack! This is getting ridiculous.
Even if they do carry tools, not all of them have the slightest clue on how to use them. If I get back into group rides, there's a chance I might be exploited just because I have bike maintenance experience.
I would suggest that a point missed about pedal position when cornering is that by keeping the inside pedal up, you avoid the risk of having the pedal strike the road surface.
Makes sence, but by all means, do not de-prioritize building skills in safe cycling. Those will come in handy, too, if deivers simply don‘t look your way.
Remember that red doesn’t count as “bright”. Roughly 9% of people are red-green color blind and they won’t be able to pick out a red jersey against a bush.
Wearing bright clothing isn't underestimating anyone. If you're wearing dark and/or dull colours, people simply cannot see you. That's not because there's something wrong with them: it's because there's something wrong with _you._
One point of safety I believe you missed is “Gloves” I’m a firm believer in wearing them, if you take a fall the first thing you do is put your hands out, as a guitar player I’m always trying to protect my hands from falling or getting cut or scraping them, it also helps from getting sweat all over the bars and stuff.
@@saisagarmrcool4610 they will help prevent broken bones if they are good gloves too. it's easy to break your wrist or elbow if you land on it from a fall.
Here's one: Don't feel like you have to buy a bike with such an aggressive stance. Being crunched over all the time is pretty miserable. If you are doing simple commutes then look for a bike that allows a more comfortable upright riding position.
That's not true for everyone. I used to commute 18km in a very windy region. I added tribars to allow me to keep going into the wind. I find the tucked position quite comfortable so that worked very well for me.
@@lafamillecarrington he's literally saying buy what you feel is comfortable, you're agreeing with his point, but you prefer a different option. Who are you arguing with?
@@ditoo2002 He literally says that cycling in a tucked position is uncomfortable - and I'm saying that isn't true for everyone. So, yes, do whatever you want, and don't be told that one position is right and another is wrong.
@@ditoo2002 "Being crunched over all the time is pretty miserable. If you are doing simple commutes then look for a bike that allows a more comfortable upright riding position". I disagree. If @slugbones has an issue with my comment, I'm sure he'll let me know.
@jefflilyea4669. Didn't Tristan spit out the bitten off end of his gel pack? BTW, bagels are pure starch and tough enough to withstand a jersey pocket at a fraction of the price of gel. (For touring or commuting or leisure riding.
I just forwarded this video to my son who wants to start riding to work. He is not living in my state (USA) and though I’m an experienced cyclist, I haven’t had a ride with him in over 18 years. I very much appreciate being able to share these sound advice videos with him to ease my worries.
I just want to say that it's better to avoid removing clothing while cycling. I had an incident where the sleeves of my jacket got caught in the rear wheel, locking it as I was taking it off. My arms remained trapped in the sleeves, propelling me forward for several meters, and I came close to a fatal accident. Otherwise good video !
This is very fair..I don’t think people should try this until they are more experienced, and perhaps I should’ve left it out of the video. However I do think learning to ride one handed is a skill that can help many cyclists. Thanks for the feedback 🙏🏼
I don't wear enough clothing to remove anyway: just a jersey and tights (and I don't want to disgust anyone by being seen without either). In the winter, I take off my balaclava when going up the mountain rather than down it, but that's it (you don't even have to take it off, but I do; putting it below the chin suffices).
this tip just came in after I've crashed during a corner, cycled a 100 km ride with horrendous posture, cycling with only one hot dog consumed, bike back bearing broken, thanks for teaching me
Your descending tip on putting pressure on the outside foot has been super crucial in getting back my confidence after crashing and breaking my collarbone six months ago. Thanks again 👍
Thanks for mentioning relaxing your shoulders and elbows. This is one thing I have trouble remembering. It not only improves comfort while riding but also helps prevent you coming home with sore or stiff arms after a long ride.
This is one thing that having a mindfulness type practice has helped with too. Remembering to check your posture regularly. I have to say that I'm still better at remembering when I see obstacles ahead to act as shock absorbers than I am just riding steady for a long period.
In city environments, I find that a front blinking light, day or night, is at least as important as a rear light. I get much more recognition from drivers turning in front of me, from my lane or the opposing lane (s)) when I have one. I started to consistently use one when a driver approaching from the front, in broad daylight, turned right into me, and only stopped then their bumper hit my front wheel - I was turning away from them the whole time. They were focused on turning into a parking lot and claimed to just not see me.
Yeah great advice. I actually recorded a portion to add in about this and left it out, but really should have added it in. I agree that it is just as important.
I don’t use blinking lights simply because in my state, at LEAST half of all drivers drive distracted. I use steady lights. There’s no confusion. You can’t glance at the road and not see it. Either you’re drunk or you didn’t even glance at the road in front of you. Blinking lights scare me because people have the attention spans of a goldfish when that auto-pilot turns on in their brain. All my family drives. I know all too well how how badly people drive. I don’t think humans are meant to be driving because we suck at multitasking. I digress. If you made it this far, watch for pedestrians! Share the road. And have a great day.
@@andrewholden1501 I just saw your response to my comment! While I don’t know the proper scientifically correct answer is, I have to agree that ANY light is better than no light. I’ve used both blinking and steady lights, but I haven’t exactly tested the safety of sharing the road at night using my different lights!!! I’m gonna run an experiment over the next month or two and see what I find just doing my normal nightly commutes.
Glad you mentioned sunscreen. So many bikers skip on this and they end up aging like raisins over their lifetime (UVA sun rays account for the majority of skin aging) while also increasing thier risk of skin cancer greatly. Hat and sunglasses also is of great help, and also sun protection clothing.
@@KO_Manic The helmet will offer shade to the top of your head, but your face and neck will still be exposed to UV rays. There are two main elements when it comes to UV rays: UV A and UV B rays. UVB rays are the rays which cause sunburn the most, but they don’t penetrate as deep. UVA ‘invisible’ rays are the rays which cause sunburn less, but penetrate your skin deeper, causing damage and the break down to your skin collagen and elastin, etc., leading to skin aging and sun cancer risk. Many people are under the impression that as long as they don’t sun burn that they’re okay, but no. The ‘invisible’ UVA rays will also damage the skin over time, and more so when it comes to the aging of the skin. So anytime you’re exposed to sunlight, even on cloudy days, you’re exposed to UVA rays. No shade does help lower the exposure to how much UV rays you get, and I use it as a tool with sunscreen, but it’s not enough o lower exposure enough. It will lower sunburn risk by a lot but not overly UVA exposure necessarily. It lowers it but there is still enough UVA rays you’re exposed to. So I use shade (sunglasses and hats) with sunscreen. Also many sunscreens can sting the eyes so sent sun protective glasses allows you to get up close enough to the eyes but not too close where it stings and you can cover that very tight eye area with sun glasses. People can wear neck gators which fishermen and ppl who do other things like water sports use if they don’t want to wear sunscreen on the face. They have UPF material made with it for that too. One can bike with those on their face with sunglasses on if they want, though some may find it harder to breathe. So case in point/summery: shade is a good tool to use anyway, but one should still use sunscreen whenever they go outside, unless they want to age like a raisin. I’d cover my body if not using spray sunscreen on it too. Rimmed hats offer very good shade too. Also a side note: American brands of it use the older UV filters and I hate them because they’re often ‘heavy.’ Europe and Asia uses the newer generation of sun filters which are lighter and last longer or are more stable. You can buy most of them online or though foreign Amazon. Japan or Korea has some of the best and most affordable ones. I use the Skin Aqua brand. I try to never go below 60SPF. 100SPF is ideal for being outside all day. But US brands are still effective and much better than nothing as well. Just make sure it’s broad spectrum and the chemical sunscreens are typically better than the mineral ones.
@@BlahBlahPoop617 Woah, I did not expect a lecture, but thanks anyway, that was interesting. I've seen a few people with hats on underneath their helmets, and although it looks a little weird, I might try it, as I'd look even weirder if my skin was all wrinkly. I've already been wearing sunglasses, mainly to keep insects and the wind out of my eyes, but the protection from the sun is a nice (and more important) bonus as well. I know that UVB rays cause more surface level sunburns, but I've been unfortunate enough to forget to put sunscreen in certain places, and have been burnt nastily, so I couldn't imagine the damage UVA rays would do considering how they attack even when it's cloudy. So I'll probably put on a thin layer of sunscreen, even if it doesn't seem that hot, when I'm going for longer rides, just to be safe.
@@KO_Manicit's generally recommended to wear some SPF cream on your face at all times if you want to age gracefully. It's the best and only proven 'anti-aging' hack whether you're a woman or a man. There's this really good cream from Shiseido that increases its protection when exposed to heat and sweat, it's perfect for outdoor sports.
A really good way to improve bike handling is to go mountain or gravel biking on some technical trails (preferably with some friends). It really taught me a lot and how to respect not only my bike, but also the terrain I am riding on. It also helped build my confidence when riding on the roads.
This is not only a good idea, but is done by profession motorcycle racers. There is actually a school in the US where they take pro riders and put them on 50cc dirt bikes so they learn the ins and outs of traction.
I always avoid cornering with my inside foot because the inside foot might hit the road causing an accident. Didn't know about putting weight on the outside foot to make cornering better. Guess I'll try that. Thanks.
i'm from brazil and here, even a car or a truck passing through in the opposite direction can throw some rocks from the poor pavement, those can hit hard in the hands (that really can hurt). ALways wear safety gear! gloves are super important in that case, (PLEASE don't wait for your first crash to learn to use gloves, i've learned the worst way possible). No need to talk about eye protection...
Gloves work - I got an ambulance ride once from cycling and even after my face fully recovered, the scabs on the back of my hands were still getting ripped off every time I put my hands in my pockets for anything. Never ridden without them since
Use cycle paths where they are available. Don't wear too many layers - you'll warm up very quickly, even when it is cold outside. But do wear a wind-proof outer layer.
I disagree with “not wearing too many layers”. It’s better to be too hot (when it’s cold out) than to be too cold- and wind chill is real, making it hard to predict how cold it will be when riding.
@@orppranator5230 What can I say - I have cycle commuted in all weathers for over 30 years. Even in sub-zero temperatures I only wore three thin layers - but with good gloves and socks, and with protection for my ears. It worked for me. Incidentally, getting 'too hot' means sweating, which is terrible for keeping warm.
@@orppranator5230you never want to be too warm in cold weather. As long as you've had enough to eat and keep moving you won't go hypothermic, but you can get in big trouble if you start to sweat.
One recommendation I have (this isnt a DONT, but you can frame this as a.. dont not do this 😄) is to always do the calculus. This is how I refer to doing the mental calculations of predicting where moving objects will be to avoid a collision with them. Combined with this, also prepare for the worst case scenario when dealing with unknowns. For example, if you have an intersection coming up and you can't see if a car is coming or not (due to a parked truck blocking the view, for example), then assume that there is a car coming at just the right speed to hit you right as you go through the intersection. That would mean slow down, even stop if necessary, to check for that car first. Usually there is no car, but there have been MULTIPLE occasions when I would be telling myself "youre following this rule way too anally" only to see a car drive by right as I stopped to check for it, saving my life. It may seem boring and annoying to have to slow down or even stop very often, especially if you see another cyclist speed through an intersection as you slow down to be cautious because you can't see if anything is coming. That other cyclist may end up getting killed doing that tomorrow, however. Don't be them.
Another note on locked arms, if you find that your elbows are locked, it could be a sign you're reaching too far for the handlebars and your stem needs to be shortened. Locked elbows could also be contributing to the feeling of hands going numb during a ride.
9:13 As a mechanic, this is probably my biggest pet peeve. So many riders don't even bother with even rinsing their bike after every ride and when parts needed to be replaced earlier than usual, they try to blame how the parts suck.
One more suggestion Tristan. I have been riding bike since I was 3 years old. I learned a lesson of braking rear first then front. If I brake front first I will lost control and the bike will tripped. Since then my braking order is always rear first then front. In this way the bike will be more stable.
When I was younger I had an accident on a ramp where a friend’s cousin had been very close to the ramp for a while when I was going down, however, since I was not the smartest back then but knew the front brake was much better than the back brake, I waited until the last second and pressed it first out of instinct while on the ramp and proceeded to get slammed onto the ground
Hey mate, a really important topic and well presented! The only thing I would add is to stress the importance of avoiding overlapped wheels. Also to be careful passing bikes especially if the rider being overtaken is unaware they are being passed. The clients I have been guiding lately are relatively new to cycling and the biggest problems I see are nutrition, cornering, descending but the scariest is the lack of road positioning sense. I am catching them overlapping my wheel and find they pass me when there is a need to slow down putting us all at risk.
Just as a note: Flickering rear lights are in some countries not allowed for the reason that it is really hard to estimate the distance of a flickering light. The fact is that they make orientation for traffic behind you much harder, certainly with great brightness. They are strongly advised against.
You mean those drivers behind the light have to pay more attention that there is a fragile human ahead, not a two-ton metal box. The fact blinkers are not allowed in some countries speaks to those countries' pro-wealthy-driver bias and anti-cyclist bias. Ever seen a stopped police car dealing with an accident or an apprehended speeder? Flickering lights, yes? If cops' lives are important, so are those of cyclists. Blinkers are a warning, not something a human can't deal with. I'm interested to see who "strongly advises against" blinking rear bike lights. Yes they can be too bright - so can massive car LEDs and arc lamps. Blinkers have been shown to be more easily detectable - google Bike Radar's piece on this for specifics.
@@teacherguy5084 Calling the Netherlands unfriendly for cyclists? Having just about the most cyclists, and least cycling fatalities? I hope you don't teach anything important..
@@teacherguy5084 I'm assuming you've never driven near someone with blinking lights in a dark environment Not only is it harder to gauge distance, they're most often blinding because people buy the brightest lights that money can buy If you thought a car was dangerous, imagine one with a blinded driver Get yourself static lights and reflective gear (it interacts very well with car headlights), this will make you visible without putting anyone in danger
@@teacherguy5084So first off, a strobe is not a flashing light. The vast majority of counties in the EU that have regulations against flashing lights are among the biggest cycling countries. You are a teacher guy, I’ll let you do your own research. There are slight differences in application, but the general agreement is not a good thing. And surely you can’t believe that this is all because of some Huber rich Audi driver pulling strings at the ministry on road safety.
There were a lot of good tips in this one - things I've learned over 40 plus years of adult cycling. It didn't look like you were riding with a mirror - I recommend it to keep track of the vehicles behind you. I still use an old trick for fueling if I don't have anything better with me - fill your water bottle with half water and half soda. You burn the sugar as you go. Stay safe, and keep pedaling!
I never put anything other than water in my water bottle. They're hard enough to clean and keep clean already without adding sugar and other sticky/gross stuff to the mix.
MOST of the things you mention I agree with except two. Firstly I don't think it's a good idea to take both hands off the handle bars. If you hit a pothole or anything else you could lose control of the bike. Learning to ride with one hand yes. Secondly having a good meal before setting out. Some people cycle to lose weight so should eat sensibly. I think it's a very good idea to take a water bottle with you to stop dehydration, even in the winter.
I'm definitely guilty of #2. I learned to ride with no hands on my old steel bike, but my road bike feels so much more twitchy. Good advice to take the weight off of the arm that is left, and general push to take the time to do it. Next ride will definitely put more of a focus on one-handed riding.
is it that much more difficult? Im currently on a 7+kg frame/bike that just says citybike and in the process of slowly retiring it and switching to a mountain- and a road bike. But if its really difficult to ride a road bike without hands I'll 100% do the mt setup first....
@@LucIndustriesI don't think so I have moved from a kids bike when I was a kid to a mtb now and have ridden both one's hands free although you do need practice first with one hand
One think I would recommend (supplementing the bike fitting) is a good bike saddle. Most standard saddles are ergonomically subpar - too narrow, no pressure relief in the perineal area (numbness, anyone?), too hard (or too soft),...
Agree on front and rear daytime running lights. As for riding w/ one hand on the bars, those of us with downtube shift levers have had to do this for years. :)
Outside foot down is to avoid striking the pedal on the pavement. The whole weight distribution aspect is trivial compared to the havoc that can come from striking a pedal when you are turning at speed. What's more important is to also put your a bit more weight on the outside hand (or less weight on the inside) as well when turning.
I got headlights that I actually wear on my head. So mamy drivers spastically rush up to the stop sign, exceeding the white line. Same thing keeps happening at the exit/entrance of strip malls. So I have my headlamp on flashing red lights. I'm also armed with front & rear lights on my bike, also flashing.
My setup for lights: Nitecore BR25 front light and MagicShine SeeMee300 tail light. Both of this lights shine Under the bike, too! The bike will be very visible and the front light wont blind incoming drivers at all! A yellow jacket, t-shirt or cap, if no helmet, its very visible, too.
Regarding cycling one-handed: make sure you know which hand is going to apply which brake! You don't want to suddenly apply your front brake because you have something in your right hand. Also, be willing to drop whatever is in your right hand as it's probably not worth crashing or flipping over your handlebars for. With time, you can learn to one-handed front brake only.
About descending technique, pushing on "internal" hand (extending arm) while pulling with "external" hand (flexing arm) will allow centre of gravity to move above the bike.
5:10 I did not think of that! Well, I did think to put my outside foot down to allow clearance when I am leaning on the turn. To avoid scraping the road or even getting caught on something and falling over. The thing about grip makes total sense. Though, I did fall over once when I leaned a bit too hard to the right when it was raining. It kind of subconsciously makes me fear leaning to the right. I've been forcing myself to lean right again.
Excellent tips and I agree with them. I personally recommend to have and use a MIRROR ! … not to see what is immediately at the back, but to see what is coming from “far” behind (and possibly how many of them) which allows one to anticipate what to do ! … as you said: safety first!
4:40 I did this for a different reason. When turning tight corners, I don't want the pedals scraping the road, causing a potential catastrophic disaster.
If I may... 11) learn not to swerve when you are looking back over your shoulder (BTW, is it also called "throwing waves" in English?) and 12) if you start riding a bit more, find yourself a physio to occasionally check for imbalances - do not wait until you knee/back hurts (I really wish I had done that).
Please, I am an absolute beginner. I’ve had 2 babies in the past 4 years and I’m hoping to incorporate cycling into my life. My butt becomes sore, on the inner parts of my thighs where my legs meet the private areas. When I came home today, my back was a bit sore. Also, I cycle with a bike trailer and 2 small children in it (About 60 pounds, maybe 70 with snacks and everything I need). I even set my 3. Year olds 14 inch wheel bike on it and rode them along with it to the park today. Needless to say, I’m pooped (although it feels good). Any suggestions for me?
@@symoneprice798 A little bit of a slow reply here but it definitely sounds like you need a bike fit if you're getting this kind of pain at the tops of your thighs and back. You'll be putting undue stress on various muscles you're not often using, and adding the weight of the trailer and children would exacerbate that. Pop by your local bike shop and see if they can have a look at your fit - or better yet it would be worth looking up a bike fitter and having a chat. Cycling does take some time to get used to (I found it took a month of riding 3-4 days a week to get my butt used to the pressure from the saddle), but a bike fit will get you closer to comfort, quicker.
Great points Tristan. Took me way too long to realise I was way too tense in the neck and shoulders. A top tip I can offer on the fuelling front is to get prepared before you set off. Even with the best handling it can be difficult to unwrap certain packaging, so what I do is pre-open energy bars at one end, I even go so far as to break them in to perfect 5ths so that I have the mouthful ready for every 20 minutes, and not have more to chew than my lungs can cope with without breathing! SIS gels are notoriously hard to get in to, so I start the tear off in advance with those too.
6:50 I've been telling this (in the context of hiking/mountaineering thouth) to everyone since forever: best way to hike for long is to do this at constant power, constant effort. Maybe you don't need to actually monitor heart rate or power level but in general when going on flat, move faster, ascending, slow the f out to maintain the same effort as on flat.
My 2 cents on bike lube. We don't. We use a bee wax, ptfe, and candle wax in a simple proportion to hot dip the chain and the casette. We never use any liquid oil on the open to air surfaces, that can dust and moisture. So we do check everything on autumn fall, then never worry until spring. Thank's for all other conseils. Sportivement a tous! Bon courage!
I’m in my mid 50’s, just started to move around the city of Valencia with the bike. I like this video. I have found it very interesting and informative. Many thanks for sharing
Hi Iv just stumbled across your good self and I’m so glad I did, I’m 3 weeks out from my 3rd triathlon and the bike is my nemesis it absolutely terrifies me, I’m still THAT scared after completing 2 tris successfully and I don’t think I’ll ever really like it let alone love it but ur video is really informative and I’ll be sure to put all the things u have touched upon into motion …… thanku again :)
Thanks Clair! Glad you enjoyed it 🙏🏼 Take solace in knowing having already completed 2 you’ll no doubt smash the third. Riding takes years and years to properly “get” so hopefully in time it’ll become less of a barrier for you. Thanks again!
Garmin Varia is an excellent light/radar unit and recommended ONLY IF you also have a bike computer. Otherwise, there are many great, bright, long-lasting rear lights for much less money. But yes, if you use a bike computer, then get a Varia (or Magene L508 or Bryton GARDIA R300L) - the radar function is REALLY helpful! (the most significant safety improvement I've made to my riding in the last 50 years!)
I gotta say man this video amongst others helped me so much. Changed up my form and my seat position and dropped 6 minutes from my normal 17 mile ride. I even stopped to adjust the seat during the ride and time. Can't wait to elevate my cycling. For reference for how slow I am. 17 miles. 1 hour 16 minutes. Avg speed 13.5 mph.
13.8 today. Making more ground. Now to just get rid of this wide fat boy seat so I can lean forward more without crushing my wobbly bits 🤣 it's amazing how much drag you cut. I go from the 12 to 13 mph sitting up to an easy 18 mph leaning forward but can't do it super long yet.
Super cool to hear mate! It takes a long time to make small adjustments to body position and have the feeling be natural, but as you’ve now seen, the difference in speed due to aerodynamics is pretty noticeable. Far more than buying a more expensive bike or wheels. Let me know how you go in the next couple of months..hopefully you continue to notice some changes. 🙏🏼
Been cycling a lot lately but just moved to a Poseidon Redwood as my first dropbar and "serious" bike. Man that body positioning is tough to get used to and trying to figure out fit was tough but got it about 85 90% dialed in and really starting to like it. Managed my farthest ride ever on it too, 32 mile! Nothing crazy but huge leaps for me. Again thanks for the tips and everything that helped get me started. Now to just get some road tires on this bike and lose some of the drag from the gravel tires and see where I go!
Since this is for beginners, it would be worth noting (for road biking) that centrifugal force exists on curves. Even very small amounts of water, dirt, sand, leaves, or dust on a curve can make your bike skid out from under you, to the outside of the curve. Slow down for curves if the pavement is not totally clean.
Bike maintenance is a very good advice and a very good skill. It's not just a bike skill, but a general practical skill. Sometimes it's hard to fix a bike, but basic maintenance, like oiling, can make the wheels go smoother and applying force to the pedals easier. Oiled things are less likely to rust too. For the rest, there is Hammerite.
Great tips! *Skip sports drink though as it is SO acidic on your teeth from the added acids etc. Just go with table sugar aka sucrose as it is PH NEUTRAL and wont erode your enamel. Have one bottle of fresh water and another with table sugar + water in it. Take in around 100g of sugar per hour and you will be your strongest for sure! Ive lost count of how many WT riders Ive coached with this tip and others in the last decade. Jonas V being a subscriber for a long time and you can see it today- carbs and sugar etc. Sports drink also CRAZY expensive compared to 2kg bag of table sugar. Dont just trust me though! Go out and test it for yourself. Let the watts, better digestion, saved money and healthier teeth prove it! :)
Hm. I just use plain water. I don't know what y'all do to need food and sports drinks when cycling. My butt hurts sooner than I need to "fuel" (though I don't have that problem with my daily hour ride, but just when I decide to ride for a few hours).
I can attest to the dangers of riding with acidified sugar drinks on teeth. As a Dentist who also rides a bit, my Patients who do serious Kms per week with sport drinks and gels are often turning up to see me with far higher rates of both decay and acidic tooth structure loss. Both are exacerbated by frequent sipping on these agents so I try to recommend training with water and if required, ingesting these things in one go. At the very least, follow the agent with some water to at least dilute the acid. When we ride we are already in a dry mouth situation and often mouth breathing meaning we lose the protection of saliva which protects your teeth from both decay and acid erosion. It won’t necessarily be a problem for everyone but will be for a significant number of riders using those agents. Ask your Dentist to monitor it [ there are a number of great new tools like 3D digital scans] and consider using dental pastes and gels to help repair any damage. If you are like me and not racing and rarely going over 100Ks, fuel well before and after and ride with water.
@@alpal9303now that i am here, great tips. I always wondered why I never hear about tongue cleaning as part of oral hygene?? it's like it is not a thing. I have what I consider a rough tongue and I always scrape a ton of stuff from it. I bought (amazon) a stainless steel scraper that is like an inverted u shape. super effective, comfortable and easy to clean
About cornering with outside foot down; an additional hazard you face in corners that are quite tight is your inside pedal touching the road if you have the inside foot down, I speak from experience 😅
I appreciate you and this video! I’m a newbie to road cycling. This stuff and the comments left are very valuable. I appreciate them and those leaving them. I now need to look into getting the right clothing for warm or cool weather…
A nm click torque wrench & hex bits (look up torque specs for your bike in the owners manual, print or PDF, then every 250 mi or so, check the tightness of all the essential bolts. Under tightened bolts can come lose & cause wear of the bracket, and over tightening can stretch the bolt causing it to snap under loads. Also on a carbon bike, a little over-tight can crack the frame or other parts, so knowing the torque spec for the bolt & using a torque wrench essential to prevent damaging your carbon bike while maintaining it!
That was a great video! I learned a couple of things way too late myself. Especially fueling, took me just 30 years to get it right 😂. Cannot be overstated. Also to keep safety 1st.
Great advice. You put your outside foot down cornering so you won't drag your inside foot. Weighting and pedal placement have no impact on the forces on the tires. That comes from the location of your center-of-mass.
I can agree sooo much to the under fueling part. I was riding up a hill on my mountain bike, when I noticed I was very Hungry. so I pushed my Bike till the next descend(I was too hungry to go further on), rode to the next rural Edeka (Yes I'm German) and got myself 2 Brötchen. I was NEVER so exited to eat those 2 Brötchen than ever before in my entire life. They weren't even fresh! they were like 1-2 Days old.
One thing i don't think you emphasized enough was proper leg extension to get maximum performance. I see many people riding with there legs only half extended.
if you shift gears don't do it when you're gonna start biking it could cause problems, do it when you are already riding and don't do it when you rests your legs (not pedaling) rather do it when you are pedaling. This is from my experience in biking
I would add to the lights- use a front and rear blinky and use them during the day. I ride mostly urban areas and have found the number of people who pull out or turn in front of me dramatically lowered once I started using the lights.
This is an excellent, informed, common sense orientation for newbies. And even me, a 50+ year rider. Thank you. The relaxed posture is so important, and yes, the right size bike fit makes good posture possible, and it's worth it the trouble to find. . Expensive or cheap!
Going off at a bit of a tangent here- At point 7 about maintenance - I never walk around bare foot. There can be traces of allsorts of stuff like dog crap from you or a family member's shoes for one example. Also, that cup or drinking glass that got dropped and smashed a few days ago...maybe there's a little sharp fragment that got missed on a rug or in the groove of laminate flooring. It's also easy to stub your toe on a door frame or bit of raised flooring, especially if rushing about or distracted by something like answering the door or the ringing phone you left in another room etc etc. Not to mention the general day to day dirt and stuff like pet hair. It also keeps your soles smoother and avoids rough/calloused bits on your soles. I've never had any issues because i'm in the habit of always putting something on, even slippers or flipflops just to go a few yards to the toilet and back during the night. Some may laugh at this or think it's over the top but i think it's obvious common sense. You also don't take in and out of bed bits of crap, dust, hair, etc
Really great advice! I've been cycling for as long as I can remember but I only recently got myself a proper gravel bike for future long distance travel and bike touring. Your advice on relaxing the shoulders and elbows is very helpful, general comfort is something I find that I struggle with. Also I think I use the drop bars a little too frequently...
When I started racing as a 10y old, for the youngsters category every race included a slow speed skill course wich results were factored in to your ranking of the regular race. This simply was to learn and improve riding skills, which one starts with (also on motorcycles btw) with slow speed exercises. Please do only ride like this at 5:41 in a closed road without oncoming traffic. The guys head and upper body are completely sticking into the oncoming lane, no helmet will save your head from oncoming traffic. Furthermore the line of sight "into" the corner is reduced by picking that riding line, depending on your speed and the road you ride this can be crucial too.
I'm doing my first 50 mile charity ride for my local air ambulance next year. I'm going from my house to the coast (54 miles). I've never done anything like this before, this video is so hopeful as a beginner.
Speaking of the rear light. I noticed that having a flashing rear light make car drivers more respectful of a bike rider: they slow down more often, they keep a better distance from a bike when passing. Another fun fact: the Bontrager Flare RT Rear Bike Light that I use is so strong in its full flashing mode that it has been disallowed in Germany. I even had a situation that a car driver who was also a recreational bike rider stopped to ask me, what brand I use, because it was so strong in a daylight. Bottom line: use the rear light. It does make a difference (except Italy - they still pass you waaaay to close).
Gels and carb drinks are the best way to fuel on the bike, I think. Add some bars in if you're gonna stop on occasion to plan or decide the next part of your ride like I often do.
@@ghenulo you'd be surprised, you'll still lose weight while using them in the bike as long as you're doing enough zone 2. Glucose isn't the same as sugar - sucrose.
Very good very nice tips and advice ! I might mention some thing I was taught when taking one hand off the bars is to place it on the tops or the flat section. Depending on a persons, skill or bike handling skill that is if they placed one hand and keep it on the hoods maybe they hit a reflector in the road or something you could easily oversteer and maybe crash makes the bike very Squirrley so I think it’s for me. I try to keep it on the tops there’s less chance to oversteer or over correct . just my two cents 🤔👌🏻😄
An amendment to riding with one hand: Work on doing it without changing your line. Also, looking over/under your shoulder without changing you line. I should’ve had a broken collarbone, but got lucky to just get a separated shoulder, a broken rib, and a nice gash on my knee.
look 99% of any cycling that's being done today is to go from point A to point B while sparing gaz money and not racing and world record breaking, speed REALLY REALLY doesn't matter to the vast majority of riders and I don't get why most of the focus goes on the speed...the best tips you can give is how to make cycling the least exhausting and most comfortable...and this is what I found from this video so thank you very much...I think most of these tips focus on safety and saving energy by making cycling less tiring.
You've made 2 assertions that putting downward pressure on your bike while riding (arms on handlebars, foot on pedals) affects the downward pressure the tires exerts on the ground. It doesn't. You can momentarily do this by, for example, launching yourself upwards while bunny hopping, but this is a reactionary force you're imparting. You might also affect the distribution of front/rear weight by moving fore and aft, which is sometimes useful, but the total weight is the same. The reason you don't want to put too much weight on your bars, as you've noted, is to help absorb bumps and avoid muscle fatigue. The main reason you weight the outside foot is to provide better bracing for rough roads or uneven surfaces, and to avoid pedal stikes. The traction is unaffected.
Agreed. Anybody that understands a bit of physics will know that it’s completely false. Its mainly to avoid pedal strike as the bike leans during cornering. At first I thought Tristan was trolling but I don’t believe that’s the case.
Total weight stays the same, correct, weight distribution is altered though, and this will affect bike handling and ultimately grip. No road is perfectly smooth and having body weight incorrectly distributed on the bike heightens the chance of crashing if you hit a ripple in the road unexpectedly. Pedal strike is another reason I should have added. The point remains the same: avoid cornering with your inside foot down.
Ok…you can pile on me but I’m going to say this…I will frequently ride in the upright/no hands position for a full lap sometimes, after some consecutive hard effort laps of the park….it helps my breathing relax And gives some relief to any tight muscles…but also allows me to focus on my core stability and pedal stroke….sometimes I’m not even slowing my pace that much and when I return to the hoods or the drops I am physically refreshed Another more controversial technique I use is closing my eyes (only in the park loop!!!) during a inhale or exhale….i sometimes focus 20 feet or so in front of my wheel as to eliminate from my mind the perception of the road as a obstacle to my speed and progression…the occasional eyes closed technique just improves the meditative effect that this has on my energy/effort levels….my pedaling becomes almost effortless….. I only do this when a lack of crowds allows it, and especially on uphill sections….and I’m constantly practicing to try and keep myself as straight as possible for as long as possible when that is safe….but simply having my eyes closed on a inhale or exhale alone pays dividends in the energy department
Thank you for the video! As a beginner going on group rides I think experienced riders don’t want to be rude and give unsolicited advice, even though people like me need it.
Extra tip: IF you are not able to handle your bike with one hand, your are NOT ready to bike on the road. Actually, to have enough control, you should be able to steer your bike easily WITHOUT a hand on the handlebar. (That is to say, steer and balance at the same time, using only the positioning of your weight, which is actually the way you should always steer, even if you do have your hands on the handle bar).
Hi, Tristan another great video. I've realized your videos have influenced me more than I realized, after recently purchasing a BMC I've also booked to come to girona. It would be cool if you could do a beginner/intermediate rider guide to girona.
Wow, I've been doing most of those mistakes. I had worked out to keep my upper body relaxed but had no idea why it helped. This was really helpful and interesting.
Two more tips from me as a long time cyclist: -Always reckon with the stupidity of others. -Drive as if you were invisible. But also make yourself as visible as possible. This point is more like a thought in your head. If people don't want to see you, they don't see you. No matter, how visible you are.
I just realized that I am not a cyclist. I am cycling. I ride a single speed coaster brake bike one hour every day and cover 21 km.... This clip is for cyclists. I tapped the thumbs up 👍 button to feed the algorithm monsters.
I will like some juicy content like cycle racing in the city at night or at small towns when you do that it's really fun feels like that I'm in initial d I love it really much. But no-one does that which is sad 😔
I've been riding for commuting and recreation for many years, and keeping my upper body, arms, and hands relaxed is honestly not something I'd thought much about, but I definitely will concentrate on developing this now. I'm 60 years old and pain and soreness in my elbows, wrists, and hands is becoming more of an issue all the time.
I have Ebike bar mirrors on my 3 roadster/ tour swept comfort bar bikes. I watch them a LOT because I ride on very busy highways where WIDE loads come along as well. I can see back half a mile. Very useful when the shoulder is crappy and I have to go back and forth over the line. Also for timing a merge crossover in 70 mph traffic. Without a mirror I'd be lucky to see back 100 feet and it ALWAYS makes me swerve left. I do look back for the final decision to go and it's like the signal to the cars. In the city they really don't do much.
One important thing is to carry some tools and learn how to use it. I often go on group rides where people don't carry anything ever and just depend on help from others.
Agreed 🤝🏼
Yeah, sure, pumping the pedals, steering, braking all with one hand, and you throw in “carrying some tools too”?
Get a back pack! This is getting ridiculous.
@@MattScottMusic Saddle bags exist. He doesn’t literally mean carry tools in your hands.
Even if they do carry tools, not all of them have the slightest clue on how to use them. If I get back into group rides, there's a chance I might be exploited just because I have bike maintenance experience.
@@sbccbc7471 same here. My mates watch all videos about upgrading their bikes and spend money on that, but never bother learning about the basics.
I would suggest that a point missed about pedal position when cornering is that by keeping the inside pedal up, you avoid the risk of having the pedal strike the road surface.
Especially off road when there are natural obstacles.
One of the most important thing is to take a sht before riding a bike and blow your nose thanks me later
This is how I learned from a very young age XD
yes, it comes quite natural, to avoid that.
@@klopcodezinstructions unclear, I've shit myself and there's snot all over my handlebars.
Good tips. I would add “wear something bright”. You can’t underestimate the average motorist.
Makes sence, but by all means, do not de-prioritize building skills in safe cycling. Those will come in handy, too, if deivers simply don‘t look your way.
Remember that red doesn’t count as “bright”. Roughly 9% of people are red-green color blind and they won’t be able to pick out a red jersey against a bush.
Fashion first 😎
Wearing bright clothing isn't underestimating anyone. If you're wearing dark and/or dull colours, people simply cannot see you. That's not because there's something wrong with them: it's because there's something wrong with _you._
I was wearing a red jersey and a yellow helmet when the Toyota pulled out in front of me I noww wear a yellow jersey with my new yellow helmet.
One point of safety I believe you missed is “Gloves” I’m a firm believer in wearing them, if you take a fall the first thing you do is put your hands out, as a guitar player I’m always trying to protect my hands from falling or getting cut or scraping them, it also helps from getting sweat all over the bars and stuff.
You.missed it. He did mention gloves.
Yes, your hands might get scraped off due to the roads which are rough
Another great point of gloves is they keep the shape of your hand in tact very well! Helps a ton while riding my brakeless track bikes
@@saisagarmrcool4610 they will help prevent broken bones if they are good gloves too. it's easy to break your wrist or elbow if you land on it from a fall.
@@douglasmckinley-sr1507 He just wanted a chance to tell everyone he plays guitar
Here's one: Don't feel like you have to buy a bike with such an aggressive stance. Being crunched over all the time is pretty miserable. If you are doing simple commutes then look for a bike that allows a more comfortable upright riding position.
That's not true for everyone. I used to commute 18km in a very windy region. I added tribars to allow me to keep going into the wind. I find the tucked position quite comfortable so that worked very well for me.
@@lafamillecarrington he's literally saying buy what you feel is comfortable, you're agreeing with his point, but you prefer a different option. Who are you arguing with?
@@ditoo2002 He literally says that cycling in a tucked position is uncomfortable - and I'm saying that isn't true for everyone. So, yes, do whatever you want, and don't be told that one position is right and another is wrong.
@@lafamillecarrington "don't feel like you have to..." he's literally saying it's not necessary, hes not saying dont get it, tf are you on?
@@ditoo2002 "Being crunched over all the time is pretty miserable. If you are doing simple commutes then look for a bike that allows a more comfortable upright riding position". I disagree. If @slugbones has an issue with my comment, I'm sure he'll let me know.
Don't litter. I'm always finding wrappers and gelpaks.
@jefflilyea4669. Didn't Tristan spit out the bitten off end of his gel pack?
BTW, bagels are pure starch and tough enough to withstand a jersey pocket at a fraction of the price of gel. (For touring or commuting or leisure riding.
@ronmorrell9809 I love bagels for gravel rides. They're easy to eat and hold in your hands on the go becsuse the bagel doesn't fall apart easily.
I just forwarded this video to my son who wants to start riding to work. He is not living in my state (USA) and though I’m an experienced cyclist, I haven’t had a ride with him in over 18 years. I very much appreciate being able to share these sound advice videos with him to ease my worries.
Hope it helps 🙏🏼
I just want to say that it's better to avoid removing clothing while cycling. I had an incident where the sleeves of my jacket got caught in the rear wheel, locking it as I was taking it off. My arms remained trapped in the sleeves, propelling me forward for several meters, and I came close to a fatal accident.
Otherwise good video !
This is very fair..I don’t think people should try this until they are more experienced, and perhaps I should’ve left it out of the video. However I do think learning to ride one handed is a skill that can help many cyclists. Thanks for the feedback 🙏🏼
I don't wear enough clothing to remove anyway: just a jersey and tights (and I don't want to disgust anyone by being seen without either). In the winter, I take off my balaclava when going up the mountain rather than down it, but that's it (you don't even have to take it off, but I do; putting it below the chin suffices).
this tip just came in after I've crashed during a corner, cycled a 100 km ride with horrendous posture, cycling with only one hot dog consumed, bike back bearing broken, thanks for teaching me
Your descending tip on putting pressure on the outside foot has been super crucial in getting back my confidence after crashing and breaking my collarbone six months ago. Thanks again 👍
You also end up with less space to lean when the inside foot is down, pressure or not, that pedal will get in the way quick
Its crucial when MTBing thus strongly suggest to cross discipline if possible
@@JanKowalski-pe9lo we do it a little different though. we dont lean with the bike. we lean just the bike.
Thanks for mentioning relaxing your shoulders and elbows. This is one thing I have trouble remembering. It not only improves comfort while riding but also helps prevent you coming home with sore or stiff arms after a long ride.
This is one thing that having a mindfulness type practice has helped with too. Remembering to check your posture regularly. I have to say that I'm still better at remembering when I see obstacles ahead to act as shock absorbers than I am just riding steady for a long period.
In city environments, I find that a front blinking light, day or night, is at least as important as a rear light. I get much more recognition from drivers turning in front of me, from my lane or the opposing lane (s)) when I have one.
I started to consistently use one when a driver approaching from the front, in broad daylight, turned right into me, and only stopped then their bumper hit my front wheel - I was turning away from them the whole time. They were focused on turning into a parking lot and claimed to just not see me.
Yeah great advice. I actually recorded a portion to add in about this and left it out, but really should have added it in. I agree that it is just as important.
Light r for p*ssies
I don’t use blinking lights simply because in my state, at LEAST half of all drivers drive distracted. I use steady lights. There’s no confusion. You can’t glance at the road and not see it. Either you’re drunk or you didn’t even glance at the road in front of you. Blinking lights scare me because people have the attention spans of a goldfish when that auto-pilot turns on in their brain.
All my family drives. I know all too well how how badly people drive. I don’t think humans are meant to be driving because we suck at multitasking.
I digress. If you made it this far, watch for pedestrians! Share the road. And have a great day.
Screw it I’ve read this before and no more delay. Imma get me a front light asap.
@@andrewholden1501 I just saw your response to my comment!
While I don’t know the proper scientifically correct answer is, I have to agree that ANY light is better than no light. I’ve used both blinking and steady lights, but I haven’t exactly tested the safety of sharing the road at night using my different lights!!! I’m gonna run an experiment over the next month or two and see what I find just doing my normal nightly commutes.
Glad you mentioned sunscreen. So many bikers skip on this and they end up aging like raisins over their lifetime (UVA sun rays account for the majority of skin aging) while also increasing thier risk of skin cancer greatly. Hat and sunglasses also is of great help, and also sun protection clothing.
Wouldn't the helmet keep your head in the shade anyway?
@@KO_Manic
The helmet will offer shade to the top of your head, but your face and neck will still be exposed to UV rays.
There are two main elements when it comes to UV rays: UV A and UV B rays. UVB rays are the rays which cause sunburn the most, but they don’t penetrate as deep. UVA ‘invisible’ rays are the rays which cause sunburn less, but penetrate your skin deeper, causing damage and the break down to your skin collagen and elastin, etc., leading to skin aging and sun cancer risk.
Many people are under the impression that as long as they don’t sun burn that they’re okay, but no. The ‘invisible’ UVA rays will also damage the skin over time, and more so when it comes to the aging of the skin. So anytime you’re exposed to sunlight, even on cloudy days, you’re exposed to UVA rays.
No shade does help lower the exposure to how much UV rays you get, and I use it as a tool with sunscreen, but it’s not enough o lower exposure enough. It will lower sunburn risk by a lot but not overly UVA exposure necessarily. It lowers it but there is still enough UVA rays you’re exposed to.
So I use shade (sunglasses and hats) with sunscreen. Also many sunscreens can sting the eyes so sent sun protective glasses allows you to get up close enough to the eyes but not too close where it stings and you can cover that very tight eye area with sun glasses.
People can wear neck gators which fishermen and ppl who do other things like water sports use if they don’t want to wear sunscreen on the face. They have UPF material made with it for that too. One can bike with those on their face with sunglasses on if they want, though some may find it harder to breathe.
So case in point/summery: shade is a good tool to use anyway, but one should still use sunscreen whenever they go outside, unless they want to age like a raisin. I’d cover my body if not using spray sunscreen on it too. Rimmed hats offer very good shade too.
Also a side note: American brands of it use the older UV filters and I hate them because they’re often ‘heavy.’ Europe and Asia uses the newer generation of sun filters which are lighter and last longer or are more stable. You can buy most of them online or though foreign Amazon. Japan or Korea has some of the best and most affordable ones. I use the Skin Aqua brand. I try to never go below 60SPF. 100SPF is ideal for being outside all day. But US brands are still effective and much better than nothing as well. Just make sure it’s broad spectrum and the chemical sunscreens are typically better than the mineral ones.
@@BlahBlahPoop617 Woah, I did not expect a lecture, but thanks anyway, that was interesting. I've seen a few people with hats on underneath their helmets, and although it looks a little weird, I might try it, as I'd look even weirder if my skin was all wrinkly.
I've already been wearing sunglasses, mainly to keep insects and the wind out of my eyes, but the protection from the sun is a nice (and more important) bonus as well.
I know that UVB rays cause more surface level sunburns, but I've been unfortunate enough to forget to put sunscreen in certain places, and have been burnt nastily, so I couldn't imagine the damage UVA rays would do considering how they attack even when it's cloudy. So I'll probably put on a thin layer of sunscreen, even if it doesn't seem that hot, when I'm going for longer rides, just to be safe.
Sunscreens are full of toxic chemicals and are literally endocrine disrupters (+carcinogenic)
@@KO_Manicit's generally recommended to wear some SPF cream on your face at all times if you want to age gracefully. It's the best and only proven 'anti-aging' hack whether you're a woman or a man. There's this really good cream from Shiseido that increases its protection when exposed to heat and sweat, it's perfect for outdoor sports.
A really good way to improve bike handling is to go mountain or gravel biking on some technical trails (preferably with some friends). It really taught me a lot and how to respect not only my bike, but also the terrain I am riding on. It also helped build my confidence when riding on the roads.
This is great advice. 👌🏼
I don't have any friends, so that's a no-go for me.
@@ghenulogo by yourself🗿
This is not only a good idea, but is done by profession motorcycle racers. There is actually a school in the US where they take pro riders and put them on 50cc dirt bikes so they learn the ins and outs of traction.
I always avoid cornering with my inside foot because the inside foot might hit the road causing an accident. Didn't know about putting weight on the outside foot to make cornering better. Guess I'll try that. Thanks.
Biggest tip for begginers, dont fall for the newbie no gloves look. wear gloves and save your palms if you land at over 30kmh.
None of the riders in this video were wearing gloves...
Yea im not buying em, ive gotten bad road rash skating and bombing hills, ill live man
Biggest tip for you, stop worrying about how people look.
i'm from brazil and here, even a car or a truck passing through in the opposite direction can throw some rocks from the poor pavement, those can hit hard in the hands (that really can hurt). ALways wear safety gear! gloves are super important in that case, (PLEASE don't wait for your first crash to learn to use gloves, i've learned the worst way possible). No need to talk about eye protection...
Gloves work - I got an ambulance ride once from cycling and even after my face fully recovered, the scabs on the back of my hands were still getting ripped off every time I put my hands in my pockets for anything. Never ridden without them since
Use cycle paths where they are available.
Don't wear too many layers - you'll warm up very quickly, even when it is cold outside. But do wear a wind-proof outer layer.
I disagree with “not wearing too many layers”. It’s better to be too hot (when it’s cold out) than to be too cold- and wind chill is real, making it hard to predict how cold it will be when riding.
@@orppranator5230 What can I say - I have cycle commuted in all weathers for over 30 years. Even in sub-zero temperatures I only wore three thin layers - but with good gloves and socks, and with protection for my ears. It worked for me.
Incidentally, getting 'too hot' means sweating, which is terrible for keeping warm.
@@orppranator5230you never want to be too warm in cold weather. As long as you've had enough to eat and keep moving you won't go hypothermic, but you can get in big trouble if you start to sweat.
I literally surge up every single hill. Ty for these tips I've been cycling near daily for 6 months straight now and I still have alot to learn
One recommendation I have (this isnt a DONT, but you can frame this as a.. dont not do this 😄) is to always do the calculus. This is how I refer to doing the mental calculations of predicting where moving objects will be to avoid a collision with them. Combined with this, also prepare for the worst case scenario when dealing with unknowns. For example, if you have an intersection coming up and you can't see if a car is coming or not (due to a parked truck blocking the view, for example), then assume that there is a car coming at just the right speed to hit you right as you go through the intersection. That would mean slow down, even stop if necessary, to check for that car first. Usually there is no car, but there have been MULTIPLE occasions when I would be telling myself "youre following this rule way too anally" only to see a car drive by right as I stopped to check for it, saving my life. It may seem boring and annoying to have to slow down or even stop very often, especially if you see another cyclist speed through an intersection as you slow down to be cautious because you can't see if anything is coming. That other cyclist may end up getting killed doing that tomorrow, however. Don't be them.
This is really, really good advice. Well explained and makes 100% sense. Great comment. 👌🏼
Another note on locked arms, if you find that your elbows are locked, it could be a sign you're reaching too far for the handlebars and your stem needs to be shortened. Locked elbows could also be contributing to the feeling of hands going numb during a ride.
Very good point. 🤝🏼
9:13 As a mechanic, this is probably my biggest pet peeve. So many riders don't even bother with even rinsing their bike after every ride and when parts needed to be replaced earlier than usual, they try to blame how the parts suck.
I'm not the best about this, but I also know it is totally my fault lol.
After every ride? I try to clean my bike and lubricate the chain once a month, right before I cut my hair.
@@ghenulo Just a simple hose-down, not a wash. It only takes a few minutes to just neutralise any sweat that has dripped on the bike.
One more suggestion Tristan. I have been riding bike since I was 3 years old. I learned a lesson of braking rear first then front. If I brake front first I will lost control and the bike will tripped. Since then my braking order is always rear first then front. In this way the bike will be more stable.
When I was younger I had an accident on a ramp where a friend’s cousin had been very close to the ramp for a while when I was going down, however, since I was not the smartest back then but knew the front brake was much better than the back brake, I waited until the last second and pressed it first out of instinct while on the ramp and proceeded to get slammed onto the ground
Hey mate, a really important topic and well presented! The only thing I would add is to stress the importance of avoiding overlapped wheels. Also to be careful passing bikes especially if the rider being overtaken is unaware they are being passed. The clients I have been guiding lately are relatively new to cycling and the biggest problems I see are nutrition, cornering, descending but the scariest is the lack of road positioning sense. I am catching them overlapping my wheel and find they pass me when there is a need to slow down putting us all at risk.
Thanks man. All great points. 🙏🏼
Just as a note: Flickering rear lights are in some countries not allowed for the reason that it is really hard to estimate the distance of a flickering light. The fact is that they make orientation for traffic behind you much harder, certainly with great brightness. They are strongly advised against.
Fair point. I’ve heard they aren’t allowed in some places.
You mean those drivers behind the light have to pay more attention that there is a fragile human ahead, not a two-ton metal box. The fact blinkers are not allowed in some countries speaks to those countries' pro-wealthy-driver bias and anti-cyclist bias. Ever seen a stopped police car dealing with an accident or an apprehended speeder? Flickering lights, yes? If cops' lives are important, so are those of cyclists. Blinkers are a warning, not something a human can't deal with. I'm interested to see who "strongly advises against" blinking rear bike lights. Yes they can be too bright - so can massive car LEDs and arc lamps. Blinkers have been shown to be more easily detectable - google Bike Radar's piece on this for specifics.
@@teacherguy5084 Calling the Netherlands unfriendly for cyclists? Having just about the most cyclists, and least cycling fatalities?
I hope you don't teach anything important..
@@teacherguy5084 I'm assuming you've never driven near someone with blinking lights in a dark environment
Not only is it harder to gauge distance, they're most often blinding because people buy the brightest lights that money can buy
If you thought a car was dangerous, imagine one with a blinded driver
Get yourself static lights and reflective gear (it interacts very well with car headlights), this will make you visible without putting anyone in danger
@@teacherguy5084So first off, a strobe is not a flashing light. The vast majority of counties in the EU that have regulations against flashing lights are among the biggest cycling countries. You are a teacher guy, I’ll let you do your own research. There are slight differences in application, but the general agreement is not a good thing. And surely you can’t believe that this is all because of some Huber rich Audi driver pulling strings at the ministry on road safety.
There were a lot of good tips in this one - things I've learned over 40 plus years of adult cycling. It didn't look like you were riding with a mirror - I recommend it to keep track of the vehicles behind you. I still use an old trick for fueling if I don't have anything better with me - fill your water bottle with half water and half soda. You burn the sugar as you go. Stay safe, and keep pedaling!
Soda will make your body dehydrated
Mirror on helmet! Peace of mind for me. Turning to look is for criminals!
I never put anything other than water in my water bottle. They're hard enough to clean and keep clean already without adding sugar and other sticky/gross stuff to the mix.
@@mylesleggette7520 agree! Warm sticky sports drinks are not what I want on a hot day.
MOST of the things you mention I agree with except two. Firstly I don't think it's a good idea to take both hands off the handle bars. If you hit a pothole or anything else you could lose control of the bike. Learning to ride with one hand yes. Secondly having a good meal before setting out. Some people cycle to lose weight so should eat sensibly. I think it's a very good idea to take a water bottle with you to stop dehydration, even in the winter.
I'm definitely guilty of #2. I learned to ride with no hands on my old steel bike, but my road bike feels so much more twitchy. Good advice to take the weight off of the arm that is left, and general push to take the time to do it. Next ride will definitely put more of a focus on one-handed riding.
is it that much more difficult? Im currently on a 7+kg frame/bike that just says citybike and in the process of slowly retiring it and switching to a mountain- and a road bike. But if its really difficult to ride a road bike without hands I'll 100% do the mt setup first....
@@LucIndustriesI don't think so I have moved from a kids bike when I was a kid to a mtb now and have ridden both one's hands free although you do need practice first with one hand
One think I would recommend (supplementing the bike fitting) is a good bike saddle. Most standard saddles are ergonomically subpar - too narrow, no pressure relief in the perineal area (numbness, anyone?), too hard (or too soft),...
Agree on front and rear daytime running lights.
As for riding w/ one hand on the bars, those of us with downtube shift levers have had to do this for years. :)
Outside foot down is to avoid striking the pedal on the pavement. The whole weight distribution aspect is trivial compared to the havoc that can come from striking a pedal when you are turning at speed. What's more important is to also put your a bit more weight on the outside hand (or less weight on the inside) as well when turning.
I got headlights that I actually wear on my head. So mamy drivers spastically rush up to the stop sign, exceeding the white line. Same thing keeps happening at the exit/entrance of strip malls. So I have my headlamp on flashing red lights. I'm also armed with front & rear lights on my bike, also flashing.
I also recommend to rest every 2-3 hrs ( going to bathroom) ,
A long ride 5hrs + needs more rest .
My setup for lights: Nitecore BR25 front light and MagicShine SeeMee300 tail light.
Both of this lights shine Under the bike, too! The bike will be very visible and the front light wont blind incoming drivers at all!
A yellow jacket, t-shirt or cap, if no helmet, its very visible, too.
Massive information and well-scripted with zero time-wasting. Love this!!!
Thanks man, glad you enjoyed!
Regarding cycling one-handed: make sure you know which hand is going to apply which brake! You don't want to suddenly apply your front brake because you have something in your right hand. Also, be willing to drop whatever is in your right hand as it's probably not worth crashing or flipping over your handlebars for. With time, you can learn to one-handed front brake only.
About descending technique, pushing on "internal" hand (extending arm) while pulling with "external" hand (flexing arm) will allow centre of gravity to move above the bike.
5:10 I did not think of that! Well, I did think to put my outside foot down to allow clearance when I am leaning on the turn. To avoid scraping the road or even getting caught on something and falling over.
The thing about grip makes total sense. Though, I did fall over once when I leaned a bit too hard to the right when it was raining. It kind of subconsciously makes me fear leaning to the right. I've been forcing myself to lean right again.
Excellent tips and I agree with them. I personally recommend to have and use a MIRROR ! … not to see what is immediately at the back, but to see what is coming from “far” behind (and possibly how many of them) which allows one to anticipate what to do ! … as you said: safety first!
4:40 I did this for a different reason. When turning tight corners, I don't want the pedals scraping the road, causing a potential catastrophic disaster.
If I may... 11) learn not to swerve when you are looking back over your shoulder (BTW, is it also called "throwing waves" in English?) and 12) if you start riding a bit more, find yourself a physio to occasionally check for imbalances - do not wait until you knee/back hurts (I really wish I had done that).
Please, I am an absolute beginner. I’ve had 2 babies in the past 4 years and I’m hoping to incorporate cycling into my life. My butt becomes sore, on the inner parts of my thighs where my legs meet the private areas. When I came home today, my back was a bit sore. Also, I cycle with a bike trailer and 2 small children in it (About 60 pounds, maybe 70 with snacks and everything I need). I even set my 3. Year olds 14 inch wheel bike on it and rode them along with it to the park today. Needless to say, I’m pooped (although it feels good). Any suggestions for me?
@@symoneprice798 A little bit of a slow reply here but it definitely sounds like you need a bike fit if you're getting this kind of pain at the tops of your thighs and back. You'll be putting undue stress on various muscles you're not often using, and adding the weight of the trailer and children would exacerbate that. Pop by your local bike shop and see if they can have a look at your fit - or better yet it would be worth looking up a bike fitter and having a chat. Cycling does take some time to get used to (I found it took a month of riding 3-4 days a week to get my butt used to the pressure from the saddle), but a bike fit will get you closer to comfort, quicker.
My knees and back hurt before I even starting bicycling. In fact, nothing is harder on my back than walking (a half hour or so and I'm in misery).
Great points Tristan. Took me way too long to realise I was way too tense in the neck and shoulders. A top tip I can offer on the fuelling front is to get prepared before you set off. Even with the best handling it can be difficult to unwrap certain packaging, so what I do is pre-open energy bars at one end, I even go so far as to break them in to perfect 5ths so that I have the mouthful ready for every 20 minutes, and not have more to chew than my lungs can cope with without breathing! SIS gels are notoriously hard to get in to, so I start the tear off in advance with those too.
This is great advice. Also for when it’s freezing and you’re wearing gloves making the whole process even more difficult.
6:50 I've been telling this (in the context of hiking/mountaineering thouth) to everyone since forever: best way to hike for long is to do this at constant power, constant effort. Maybe you don't need to actually monitor heart rate or power level but in general when going on flat, move faster, ascending, slow the f out to maintain the same effort as on flat.
My 2 cents on bike lube. We don't. We use a bee wax, ptfe, and candle wax in a simple proportion to hot dip the chain and the casette. We never use any liquid oil on the open to air surfaces, that can dust and moisture. So we do check everything on autumn fall, then never worry until spring. Thank's for all other conseils. Sportivement a tous! Bon courage!
I’m in my mid 50’s, just started to move around the city of Valencia with the bike. I like this video. I have found it very interesting and informative. Many thanks for sharing
Hi Iv just stumbled across your good self and I’m so glad I did, I’m 3 weeks out from my 3rd triathlon and the bike is my nemesis it absolutely terrifies me, I’m still THAT scared after completing 2 tris successfully and I don’t think I’ll ever really like it let alone love it but ur video is really informative and I’ll be sure to put all the things u have touched upon into motion …… thanku again :)
Thanks Clair! Glad you enjoyed it 🙏🏼 Take solace in knowing having already completed 2 you’ll no doubt smash the third. Riding takes years and years to properly “get” so hopefully in time it’ll become less of a barrier for you. Thanks again!
Garmin Varia is an excellent light/radar unit and recommended ONLY IF you also have a bike computer. Otherwise, there are many great, bright, long-lasting rear lights for much less money. But yes, if you use a bike computer, then get a Varia (or Magene L508 or Bryton GARDIA R300L) - the radar function is REALLY helpful! (the most significant safety improvement I've made to my riding in the last 50 years!)
I gotta say man this video amongst others helped me so much. Changed up my form and my seat position and dropped 6 minutes from my normal 17 mile ride. I even stopped to adjust the seat during the ride and time. Can't wait to elevate my cycling.
For reference for how slow I am. 17 miles. 1 hour 16 minutes. Avg speed 13.5 mph.
13.8 today. Making more ground. Now to just get rid of this wide fat boy seat so I can lean forward more without crushing my wobbly bits 🤣 it's amazing how much drag you cut. I go from the 12 to 13 mph sitting up to an easy 18 mph leaning forward but can't do it super long yet.
Super cool to hear mate! It takes a long time to make small adjustments to body position and have the feeling be natural, but as you’ve now seen, the difference in speed due to aerodynamics is pretty noticeable. Far more than buying a more expensive bike or wheels. Let me know how you go in the next couple of months..hopefully you continue to notice some changes. 🙏🏼
Been cycling a lot lately but just moved to a Poseidon Redwood as my first dropbar and "serious" bike. Man that body positioning is tough to get used to and trying to figure out fit was tough but got it about 85 90% dialed in and really starting to like it. Managed my farthest ride ever on it too, 32 mile! Nothing crazy but huge leaps for me. Again thanks for the tips and everything that helped get me started. Now to just get some road tires on this bike and lose some of the drag from the gravel tires and see where I go!
Since this is for beginners, it would be worth noting (for road biking) that centrifugal force exists on curves. Even very small amounts of water, dirt, sand, leaves, or dust on a curve can make your bike skid out from under you, to the outside of the curve. Slow down for curves if the pavement is not totally clean.
AS a long distance cyclist I can relate to alot of the tips and tricks layer out in this video.
Bike maintenance is a very good advice and a very good skill.
It's not just a bike skill, but a general practical skill. Sometimes it's hard to fix a bike, but basic maintenance, like oiling, can make the wheels go smoother and applying force to the pedals easier. Oiled things are less likely to rust too. For the rest, there is Hammerite.
high speed non-curvy descents when you are not pedaling bring your knees together to pinch the top tube. this will help you stabilize
Thank you for taking the time to post this video. I'm brand new to road cycling and found it really helpful. Cheers
Great tips!
*Skip sports drink though as it is SO acidic on your teeth from the added acids etc. Just go with table sugar aka sucrose as it is PH NEUTRAL and wont erode your enamel. Have one bottle of fresh water and another with table sugar + water in it. Take in around 100g of sugar per hour and you will be your strongest for sure! Ive lost count of how many WT riders Ive coached with this tip and others in the last decade. Jonas V being a subscriber for a long time and you can see it today- carbs and sugar etc.
Sports drink also CRAZY expensive compared to 2kg bag of table sugar. Dont just trust me though! Go out and test it for yourself. Let the watts, better digestion, saved money and healthier teeth prove it! :)
Hm. I just use plain water. I don't know what y'all do to need food and sports drinks when cycling. My butt hurts sooner than I need to "fuel" (though I don't have that problem with my daily hour ride, but just when I decide to ride for a few hours).
I can attest to the dangers of riding with acidified sugar drinks on teeth. As a Dentist who also rides a bit, my Patients who do serious Kms per week with sport drinks and gels are often turning up to see me with far higher rates of both decay and acidic tooth structure loss. Both are exacerbated by frequent sipping on these agents so I try to recommend training with water and if required, ingesting these things in one go. At the very least, follow the agent with some water to at least dilute the acid. When we ride we are already in a dry mouth situation and often mouth breathing meaning we lose the protection of saliva which protects your teeth from both decay and acid erosion. It won’t necessarily be a problem for everyone but will be for a significant number of riders using those agents. Ask your Dentist to monitor it [ there are a number of great new tools like 3D digital scans] and consider using dental pastes and gels to help repair any damage. If you are like me and not racing and rarely going over 100Ks, fuel well before and after and ride with water.
@@alpal9303now that i am here, great tips. I always wondered why I never hear about tongue cleaning as part of oral hygene?? it's like it is not a thing. I have what I consider a rough tongue and I always scrape a ton of stuff from it. I bought (amazon) a stainless steel scraper that is like an inverted u shape. super effective, comfortable and easy to clean
@5:00 , also prevents your pedal from snagging on the ground if you are taking the corner full speed/angle
About cornering with outside foot down; an additional hazard you face in corners that are quite tight is your inside pedal touching the road if you have the inside foot down, I speak from experience 😅
Excellent video, just getting back into riding at 61 with a new-to-me gravel bike
I appreciate you and this video! I’m a newbie to road cycling. This stuff and the comments left are very valuable. I appreciate them and those leaving them.
I now need to look into getting the right clothing for warm or cool weather…
A nm click torque wrench & hex bits (look up torque specs for your bike in the owners manual, print or PDF, then every 250 mi or so, check the tightness of all the essential bolts. Under tightened bolts can come lose & cause wear of the bracket, and over tightening can stretch the bolt causing it to snap under loads. Also on a carbon bike, a little over-tight can crack the frame or other parts, so knowing the torque spec for the bolt & using a torque wrench essential to prevent damaging your carbon bike while maintaining it!
That was a great video! I learned a couple of things way too late myself. Especially fueling, took me just 30 years to get it right 😂. Cannot be overstated. Also to keep safety 1st.
Great advice. You put your outside foot down cornering so you won't drag your inside foot. Weighting and pedal placement have no impact on the forces on the tires. That comes from the location of your center-of-mass.
I can agree sooo much to the under fueling part. I was riding up a hill on my mountain bike, when I noticed I was very Hungry. so I pushed my Bike till the next descend(I was too hungry to go further on), rode to the next rural Edeka (Yes I'm German) and got myself 2 Brötchen. I was NEVER so exited to eat those 2 Brötchen than ever before in my entire life. They weren't even fresh! they were like 1-2 Days old.
Yeah, it’s crazy what you can convince yourself is delicious when you get that hungry!
Thanks!
Thanks so much mate! 🙏🏼
One thing i don't think you emphasized enough was proper leg extension to get maximum performance. I see many people riding with there legs only half extended.
That's under bike fitting.
if you shift gears don't do it when you're gonna start biking it could cause problems, do it when you are already riding and don't do it when you rests your legs (not pedaling) rather do it when you are pedaling. This is from my experience in biking
Loved the video - especially the tips about cornering. I have a huge problem with cornering, always slowing down.
The lower your upper body, the greater the tendency for neck soreness from looking upward. I adjust my posture frequently to prevent this.
Excellent advice and completely fluff free. Great video. 👍🏽
I would add to the lights- use a front and rear blinky and use them during the day. I ride mostly urban areas and have found the number of people who pull out or turn in front of me dramatically lowered once I started using the lights.
During cornering, in addition to having the outside foot down, keep your body weight centered over the wheels. Resist the urge to lean into a turn
Agreed 🤝🏼
How else would you turn?
@@ghenulo the right way? with your lower body, bum to feet.
This is an excellent, informed, common sense orientation for newbies. And even me, a 50+ year rider. Thank you. The relaxed posture is so important, and yes, the right size bike fit makes good posture possible, and it's worth it the trouble to find. . Expensive or cheap!
1:35 We learn to ride a bike without hands at the age of 15 in the Netherlands, in order to roll a cigarette on the way home.
Bro
Going off at a bit of a tangent here- At point 7 about maintenance - I never walk around bare foot. There can be traces of allsorts of stuff like dog crap from you or a family member's shoes for one example. Also, that cup or drinking glass that got dropped and smashed a few days ago...maybe there's a little sharp fragment that got missed on a rug or in the groove of laminate flooring. It's also easy to stub your toe on a door frame or bit of raised flooring, especially if rushing about or distracted by something like answering the door or the ringing phone you left in another room etc etc.
Not to mention the general day to day dirt and stuff like pet hair. It also keeps your soles smoother and avoids rough/calloused bits on your soles. I've never had any issues because i'm in the habit of always putting something on, even slippers or flipflops just to go a few yards to the toilet and back during the night.
Some may laugh at this or think it's over the top but i think it's obvious common sense. You also don't take in and out of bed bits of crap, dust, hair, etc
Really great advice! I've been cycling for as long as I can remember but I only recently got myself a proper gravel bike for future long distance travel and bike touring.
Your advice on relaxing the shoulders and elbows is very helpful, general comfort is something I find that I struggle with. Also I think I use the drop bars a little too frequently...
When I started racing as a 10y old, for the youngsters category every race included a slow speed skill course wich results were factored in to your ranking of the regular race. This simply was to learn and improve riding skills, which one starts with (also on motorcycles btw) with slow speed exercises.
Please do only ride like this at 5:41 in a closed road without oncoming traffic. The guys head and upper body are completely sticking into the oncoming lane, no helmet will save your head from oncoming traffic. Furthermore the line of sight "into" the corner is reduced by picking that riding line, depending on your speed and the road you ride this can be crucial too.
Appreciate these tips as a old beginner. LOL riding as a child is different when u pick it up back as an adult 😅
I'm doing my first 50 mile charity ride for my local air ambulance next year. I'm going from my house to the coast (54 miles). I've never done anything like this before, this video is so hopeful as a beginner.
Speaking of the rear light. I noticed that having a flashing rear light make car drivers more respectful of a bike rider: they slow down more often, they keep a better distance from a bike when passing. Another fun fact: the Bontrager Flare RT Rear Bike Light that I use is so strong in its full flashing mode that it has been disallowed in Germany. I even had a situation that a car driver who was also a recreational bike rider stopped to ask me, what brand I use, because it was so strong in a daylight. Bottom line: use the rear light. It does make a difference (except Italy - they still pass you waaaay to close).
Gels and carb drinks are the best way to fuel on the bike, I think. Add some bars in if you're gonna stop on occasion to plan or decide the next part of your ride like I often do.
It sounds like the best way to gain at least 20 pounds.
@@ghenulo you'd be surprised, you'll still lose weight while using them in the bike as long as you're doing enough zone 2. Glucose isn't the same as sugar - sucrose.
Very good very nice tips and advice ! I might mention some thing I was taught when taking one hand off the bars is to place it on the tops or the flat section. Depending on a persons, skill or bike handling skill that is if they placed one hand and keep it on the hoods maybe they hit a reflector in the road or something you could easily oversteer and maybe crash makes the bike very Squirrley so I think it’s for me. I try to keep it on the tops there’s less chance to oversteer or over correct . just my two cents 🤔👌🏻😄
An amendment to riding with one hand: Work on doing it without changing your line. Also, looking over/under your shoulder without changing you line.
I should’ve had a broken collarbone, but got lucky to just get a separated shoulder, a broken rib, and a nice gash on my knee.
look 99% of any cycling that's being done today is to go from point A to point B while sparing gaz money and not racing and world record breaking, speed REALLY REALLY doesn't matter to the vast majority of riders and I don't get why most of the focus goes on the speed...the best tips you can give is how to make cycling the least exhausting and most comfortable...and this is what I found from this video so thank you very much...I think most of these tips focus on safety and saving energy by making cycling less tiring.
Well he made an excellent video, ur lack of curiosity left me textless, how do u live a life like this? Even if u dont cycle u d enjoy the video mate
@@edgugokaydn1727 exactly thats why I'm complimenting the video by saying its different from others, or did I fail to phrase it?..maybe.
One thing i dont see people talking about is ride height, This why i love this video, it adresses that.
Its a huge game changer.
You've made 2 assertions that putting downward pressure on your bike while riding (arms on handlebars, foot on pedals) affects the downward pressure the tires exerts on the ground. It doesn't.
You can momentarily do this by, for example, launching yourself upwards while bunny hopping, but this is a reactionary force you're imparting. You might also affect the distribution of front/rear weight by moving fore and aft, which is sometimes useful, but the total weight is the same.
The reason you don't want to put too much weight on your bars, as you've noted, is to help absorb bumps and avoid muscle fatigue. The main reason you weight the outside foot is to provide better bracing for rough roads or uneven surfaces, and to avoid pedal stikes. The traction is unaffected.
Agreed. Anybody that understands a bit of physics will know that it’s completely false. Its mainly to avoid pedal strike as the bike leans during cornering. At first I thought Tristan was trolling but I don’t believe that’s the case.
Total weight stays the same, correct, weight distribution is altered though, and this will affect bike handling and ultimately grip. No road is perfectly smooth and having body weight incorrectly distributed on the bike heightens the chance of crashing if you hit a ripple in the road unexpectedly. Pedal strike is another reason I should have added. The point remains the same: avoid cornering with your inside foot down.
Ok…you can pile on me but I’m going to say this…I will frequently ride in the upright/no hands position for a full lap sometimes, after some consecutive hard effort laps of the park….it helps my breathing relax And gives some relief to any tight muscles…but also allows me to focus on my core stability and pedal stroke….sometimes I’m not even slowing my pace that much and when I return to the hoods or the drops I am physically refreshed
Another more controversial technique I use is closing my eyes (only in the park loop!!!) during a inhale or exhale….i sometimes focus 20 feet or so in front of my wheel as to eliminate from my mind the perception of the road as a obstacle to my speed and progression…the occasional eyes closed technique just improves the meditative effect that this has on my energy/effort levels….my pedaling becomes almost effortless…..
I only do this when a lack of crowds allows it, and especially on uphill sections….and I’m constantly practicing to try and keep myself as straight as possible for as long as possible when that is safe….but simply having my eyes closed on a inhale or exhale alone pays dividends in the energy department
Me with only 2 hours of sleep and some black coffe with oreos: yeah it's cycling time!
Thank you for the video! As a beginner going on group rides I think experienced riders don’t want to be rude and give unsolicited advice, even though people like me need it.
Thank you 🙏🏼 Really glad you got something out of it.
Extra tip: IF you are not able to handle your bike with one hand, your are NOT ready to bike on the road. Actually, to have enough control, you should be able to steer your bike easily WITHOUT a hand on the handlebar. (That is to say, steer and balance at the same time, using only the positioning of your weight, which is actually the way you should always steer, even if you do have your hands on the handle bar).
I just bought a second hand peugeot bike from the late 80s. Im in love with it. Especially the friction shifters
Hi, Tristan another great video. I've realized your videos have influenced me more than I realized, after recently purchasing a BMC I've also booked to come to girona. It would be cool if you could do a beginner/intermediate rider guide to girona.
Really appreciate the first tip being about security! The best possible tip!
I was a bit too relaxed yesterday and my hands slipped off the hoods and broke my collarbone
Sorry to hear man. Hope you recover alright. 😩
Wow, I've been doing most of those mistakes. I had worked out to keep my upper body relaxed but had no idea why it helped. This was really helpful and interesting.
Two more tips from me as a long time cyclist:
-Always reckon with the stupidity of others.
-Drive as if you were invisible. But also make yourself as visible as possible. This point is more like a thought in your head. If people don't want to see you, they don't see you. No matter, how visible you are.
I just realized that I am not a cyclist. I am cycling.
I ride a single speed coaster brake bike one hour every day and cover 21 km....
This clip is for cyclists.
I tapped the thumbs up 👍 button to feed the algorithm monsters.
Great advice 👍
I will like some juicy content like cycle racing in the city at night or at small towns when you do that it's really fun feels like that I'm in initial d I love it really much. But no-one does that which is sad 😔
Cornering with inside foot down also helps with preventing pedal scrape on the road
True. Equally as important and I should’ve added that.
Inside foot? Shouldn't it be the outer foot that does the drop?
I've been riding for commuting and recreation for many years, and keeping my upper body, arms, and hands relaxed is honestly not something I'd thought much about, but I definitely will concentrate on developing this now. I'm 60 years old and pain and soreness in my elbows, wrists, and hands is becoming more of an issue all the time.
I think a rear view mirror is a must , right up on the dork meter , I'd rather have the chance to move over first than get wiped out
I have Ebike bar mirrors on my 3 roadster/ tour swept comfort bar bikes. I watch them a LOT because I ride on very busy highways where WIDE loads come along as well. I can see back half a mile. Very useful when the shoulder is crappy and I have to go back and forth over the line. Also for timing a merge crossover in 70 mph traffic.
Without a mirror I'd be lucky to see back 100 feet and it ALWAYS makes me swerve left. I do look back for the final decision to go and it's like the signal to the cars.
In the city they really don't do much.
#10....join a real cycling club. Not a Rapha CC OK!
You will learn all this and more.
Great vid though.
Haha, I've never joined a club, especially those kinds. Rapha apparel pricing is ridiculous.
I mean do join a club! This way you avoid all the bad habits mentioned 😮
@@mattttt3057 Well, I'm no spring chicken to the sport as I took it up more than 11 years ago. 😅