WHAT is KERDI-COLL-L??? and WHY are THEY HIDING it from US?
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- Опубликовано: 31 май 2024
- As many of you know, I have been skeptical of using unmodified thinset as part of polyethylene sheet membrane waterproofing for showers. In all my testing, the mortar between the sheets absorbs water, and if left for longer than 4 days, the water will penetrate the substrate. See this video here: • Schluter Kerdi 7 Day F...
Most of you have seen my methods for waterproofing showers, including the video titled "The Best Way to Waterproof a Shower". To see that video click on this link: • The BEST way to WATERP...
In that video, I use Ardex 8+9, which is basically the same thing as Schluter Kerdi-Coll. By doing it this way, the shower pan is 100% waterproof, and no moisture is allowed to absorb between the sheets of membrane because it is 100% sealed.
Currently, Kerdi-Coll is only available in the EU, and it is not available in the United States or Canada. One of the reasons I am making this video is to help bring this product to the USA, so that we can use Schluter Kerdi and make it 100% waterproof. The other reason is to further prove that my testing on the Kerdi 7 day flood tests (with unmodified thinset) is yielding conceivable results. If they don't allow these methods in Germany (where Kerdi is from), why would they allow them in the USA? The answer is simple: Germany has stricter requirements for waterproofing than we do. If thinset was a proper waterproofing for these waterproofing assemblies, Germany would say its ok. But obviously it is not, so they require the Kerdi-Coll instead of thinset.
I hope you like the video, make sure to stay tuned for the follow-up, where I submit this assembly to a 7 day flood test.
Click like and Subscribe! Leave your comments in the section below, or find me on instagram @tilecoach. 
Развлечения
Hello Isaac,
I am from germany and here we are required to set our membranes (i.e. kerdi band) with this type of waterproof mortar. We are not allowed to set membranes with thin-set-mortars because it doesn't prevent capillary rising moisture.
Schluter doesn't produce it's own mortars. I've been told from many reliable sources, that Kerdi-Coll is manufactured from Ardex.
They say it actually is Ardex 8+9
Grettings
Manuel
Wow finally a man calling Kerdi out for using thin set to waterproof. Can’t believe people have not realized thin set can only go as tight as the sand used in the product. Did anyone really think thin set between membrane would waterproof? I’ve been skeptical for 10+ years.
But ist is waterproof
I truly respect all the trades and the men and women that make a living in the trades. I love the texture, look, and "artisanship" that tile/ stone offers. Great video! Thank you for sharing your passion and trade!
great to see someone sent the kerdi koll, you should try using it to replace the thinset when using the kerdi band, its a lot thinner than thinset so there's less buildup under the band and its easier to smooth out the band after with a spatula, i just use the disposable spatular you get in the tub it works well, wear a pair of nitrile gloves it stains your hands and ruins your tools, its also more sticky so the edges of the band stick better
I worked with a drywall guy that spent 6 years in Germany / Europe working and was talking about this stuff being great.
I have some kerdi coll-l that I was able to get from England. Think I will use it over the band on the foam tray. Love your videos. Merry Christmas!
Thanks for what you do Isaac. I have been using Schluter since 2007 and after seeing all your tests makes me wonder about the integrity of my shower pans as well. I hope they bring that product to Canada as well
I’ve been telling the shluter reps for years to bring it to the US. I’ve been using it here for a while now. It’s worth the expense of getting it shipped here
How are you ordering it and having it shipped here.
yep cant wait to see how strong and well bonded this is like 8+9,I still think they should color it ...orange of course
Hi Isaac, I've just finished the Schluter linear drain wetroom course in England. The training manager told us, all kerdi band must be fixed with Kerdi Coll and also all joints on Ditra / Ditra E in the wet area.
He advised using the small tubs(1.85kg) at £22 per tub ($27.66) and have all the kerdi band & corners ready for install as Kerdi Coll only has an open time of 30 - 40 minutes.
I must admit I use Ditra on every tile job but didn't know about Kerdi Coll- after using it and testing the end result, I'm completely sold on it. Hope this is of interest & hope you have a great weekend. Regards Tim
It’s main purpose is for waterproofing edges and joints on Ditra Heat (with Kerdi band on top), it’s thick enough to fill the notches in the ditra heat.
I think it basically comes down to the quality of thin set (we call it tile adhesive in Europe). The thin set you have access to in the USA is much better than in Europe which is why we can’t use it for waterproofing joints so we need the Kerdi-Coll.
I'd like to see you review ready made shower pans. Like "reditile" and others.
For me I could see using it just like you did in this video. Install the kerdi on the walls with thin set like normal then use the kerdi coll to coat the whole pan for added waterproofing. I do all remodel work so the added cost really wouldn’t be an issue once I figured out the process. Plus it wouldn’t mess with the schluter warranty like using Ardex or another product.
Their is a tanking product made by ardex for tanking with 5ltrs of latex milk with fine flexible cement, it sets in 90 mins & seams to seal joins & trays over tape, I use it for repairs on old wetrooms or for tanking plywood or green plasterboard.
I've been using this for about 7 years in UK. I use it only for kerdy tape.
love you videos Isaac. iknow how much effort goes into making them an appreciate the high value content you share with us. Oh, and I agree, bring that magic elixir to the US!
here in Canada we have a modified mortar used with Kerdi and Ditra Called Schluter ALL-SET.
I use the All Set too, just showed on my video release this evening of a bathroom renovation
It absorbs water like any thinset......not 100% waterproof
In the US we have all set as well. I find that using the thinset on the band and corners builds the band out to far. The kerdi koll is able to be applied thinner and is stickier then the all set (from what I read from the European commenters) All most all of my showers include soap niches and the thin set application of band and the corners can make it very difficult to keep the niche square, level, and plumb. In my opinion schulter needs to send kerdi koll across the pond.
So I got an answer from Schluter on Kerdi-COLL
Schluter-Systems North America
7 hours ago
Hi there, Kerdi-Coll was introduced in Europe to address requirements that simply don't apply to the North American market. North American standard construction methods differ from Europe. Here in NA, installers can assemble their showers using the same thin-set mortar throughout and have flexibility to use a thin-set mortar from their setting material manufacturer of choice as long as it meets the requirements called out in our installation handbook. Hope that helps.
This is basically cement based acrylic polymer waterproofing membrane. It is very commonly used in PRC China, there are several variants and many many brands. For certain bathroom floor waterproofing that requires even higher requirement, they'd use polyurethane waterproofing membrane, either water-based or solvent-based. The acrylic polymer waterproofing membrane is also used in Hong Kong, to certain extent, though not as common as in PRC China, which is surprising if you consider PRC is a developing country. The PE membrane used in USA is not used anywhere in HK or China.
Wow. Just in time. I have a bare mortar bed with kerdiboard walls. Haven’t sealed the board joints and screws yet. What shall I do. I’m thinking of using something similar to the 2-part roll on membrane like you showed.
What do you think about using kerdi band or any other waterproofing band as a reinforcement fabric with redguard or hydroban? It is thinner than the fabric reinforcement band laticrete offers with added benefit of being waterproof. I have not tried this but seeing you apply the kerdi coll with a roller got me to wondering.
Should we be using Ardex 8+9 instead of thinset to seal the seams considering your other flood test experiments?
My question exactly
"Why is there an ice cream man in a commercial parking lot?"
He knows exactly what he is doing.
I was just thinking - I would have absolutely gone outside.
hasve you ever used an epoxy, like a garage floor epoxy or industrial rest. kitchen floor epoxy as a liner or just in place of ceramic? curious i am. thanks
Hey Isaac, thats cool stuff, I much rather use that then have to rely on thinset for my waterproofing. with as much influence there is from schluter, on U.S. Tile setters and Tile suppliers I can’t really understand why it’s not available here.
I was working in Reno this week for a relative and saw your showroom sign off 80! I bought all my materials in Reno from and DAL Tile and they carry all mapei thinset and grout. I’ve used their grout and thinsets before. I used on that job for the first time the ultracolor grout. Ultracolor is mapei’s Version of prism or permacolor. It’s actually nice stuff and I’d definitely use it again. I work and live in the Sonoma area. almost all suppliers here carry custom grouts and thinsets so I’m kinda partial to those.
I’ve seen this Kerdi cool on other Schluter videos years ago in Europe.In those videos they use it to bond together the Kerdi membrane.I am not sure if it’s meant to be a topical water proof membrane.
Looks the same as ARDEX 8+9
Hi from the Netherlands. Actualy, here we set the membrane totally in the coll. I personally like the non cement based products, more acrylic/rubber liquids. They come as a paste ready to use.
Ardex S1-K
Eurocol 685
PCI Lastogum
Schonox HA
Cobra 900
Bison rubber seal
As always Super video!!!
Ps: We also have grouts mixed with epoxy, don't know you have them too?
I am doing a ceiling on 24” joists kerdi recommends 3/4” thick... 32” shower 6.5’ bath to remove the seam i wanted to put a full sheet of kerdi. Can i skim or paint direct on the kerdi board. For the non tiled sections
Of the bath... ps. Assuming i can find 3/4 kerdi bord
What would be the easiest system to do for a DIY Kerdi or PVC Membrane. ?
Laticrete has something like this. Called hydro ban cementitious waterproofing membrane.
Dark web Kerdi deals... I bet that ice cream truck was Kerdi undercover spying on you.
Hilarious
I took uh farted.
Shut it towel
@@poolguy101 you’re a towel!
@Ostrom, I saw your comment but I cant access it when I click on it in my notifications. For some reason it's not letting me. You were saying something about trying the 7 day... what was the rest?
You were talking in one of your videos about wearing a hard hat when tiling a shower ceiling. I didn’t take your advice , and one of the 12” by 24” tiles fell and hit me in the head. I was lucky, just scratched the skin.
You need to buy a moisture meter for painting/drywall to know how wet it really is getting
Good video!
Q? We're did you got your gloves branded?
I’ve been using Kerdi Coll for a while, I’m in the UK. We’ve been told Schluter won’t guarantee the work unless we use it.
Isaac, what about this, just install the Kerdi membrane straps, apply thin set mortar and after dry, apply Hydro Ban from Laticrete.. right? I don't see any problem doing that (creating a double water proofing shower floor) let me know about your thoughts
A Kerdi product that is required by code in the U.K. isn't available in the U.S. Could that void any guarantee for s Kerdi installation that didn't use it?
I've been ceramic tiling and bathroom renovations in Australia for 20 years . Mainly self employed , but on occasion I've worked for large contractors on major projects .
On the west coast it's mainly double brick houses and on the east brick veneer .
Some timber or steel frame houses are set up on stumps or if the ground is rocky or sloping poles !
Briefly this is how we construct a wet room ; firstly the floor beams are set 2 - 2.5 inches lower than the finish floor level of the rest of the house . Three quarter inch fibre board is used for the floor base . The joints are glued .
After the plumber has set the pipes and the dry wall guys have done the walls I'm ready to start . First I do a layout to see what suits for aesthetically. Then when I know where everything is going , my next job is cleaning away dust and snots of filler . We brick up a shower hob ( you call it kerb ?) . Just bricks , bricklayer's sand and plenty of cement . I use a laser lever to ensure its level , plumb and square. Then I brick up around the bath . My brick work is to a standard that I don't need to render anything .
We have two floor wastes ( grates ) 2 inch ( 50mm ) on the main bathroom floor and 3 inch (80 mm ) in the shower . The plastic pipes are left 6 inches proud of the floor .
The i mix up sand and cement screed . Plastering sand is used as its more stable . 5:1 mix . I prefer to mix in a petrol cement mixer and cut the revs right down so the mix tumbles rather than mixes like mortar .
Quickly prime the fibre board floor and mix up some tile adhesive to help the screed adhere to the fibre board . Then I set up my laser near the doorway . ( it helps to remove the doors , then you don't have to work around them or clean cement splashes of them ) . Then I screed the floor . A short piece of 4x2 with your levels marked . Thus I get a perfect level around the room and the required fall to the waste . I aim for a perfect float finish. The laser and 4x2 helps transfer the screed height over the brick shower hob . The fall required in the shower is between 1:60 - 1:70 . With mosaics or stone I prefer to increase the fall to 1:50 to evacuate the water faster .
The screed must be allowed to cure naturally if possible. In the winter I use a heater on low and in the summer I will spray a mist of tap water on the screed . Our summers regularly get over 45 oC ! ( I just Googled the conversion 113 oF ) .
Now I cut the waste pipes down to screed level with a 4 inch grinder using an old blade . I take great care of my tools and blades and don't ruin a nice blades for porcelain on plastic etc .
Then a thorough clean of the floor and brick work , vaccum if need be . I apply a silicone bead along the femail corners between the brick and the screed . Radius with the forefinger . This allows small seasonal movement without tearing the water proofing membrane that I apply over the top . I cut strips of membrane material to go in the corners and up the shower corners . . First I apply the flexible waterproof and the material and then another coat of waterproof . I use a clean paint brush at 45 o . I don't use a roller as it goes on too thin . I repeat the sequence around the floor between screed and dry wall . (Prime the dry wall too ) . Once its dry , usually over night , I apply the second coat at 90 o to the first . It has to go at least 2 inches down the waste pipe . Check for any bubbles or contamination.
Its ready to tile straight on top of the waterproofing . I use rubber based cementatious adhesive. Floor first , then walls .
The grout must be mixed up quite stiff and the joints tooled , ie I need to know it's gone in deep and flared behind the tile where possible . I allow the grout to dry very slightly on the tile or porcelain before I wash off at 45 o to the joints . The corners were not grouted but siliconed with colour matched silicone .
The metal floor wastes are grouted into position. An important word of caution here . The diameter that goes into the waste pipe MUST be a 16th - 8th smaller than the internal diameter of the waste pipe . This prevents a shearing or tearing of the waterproof .
Sorry it's an essay, but this is how I do it and it works 100 % .
ASA Damp proof - waterproof.
Maxisila - silicone
Weldcrete - primer and can be used to strengthen screed and mortar .
If you use Italian or Spanish tiles with this method your bathroom should last 30 years + . Remember third world tradesmen don't build first world bathrooms !
Is Master Seal 550 an equivalent product that is available in the US?
I looked out my window for the icecream truck LOL
8 +9 really works well ,I'm surprised that you don't use it more often on your video's
Is it similar to 8+9 from Ardex??
How many square feet or square meters can one container cover? I can't find this information anywhere!
It’s just like Ardex water prof roll on
I can make that stuff with powder cement and a gallon of %100 Acrylic
Hey bud im a union tile and stone journeyman in Philadelphia. Local 1 B.A.C. We have been using noble seal like manics and just dont agree with its installation process. Any comments on it?
Is there a website we can get this from in the US
Thanks for letting me know that we're required to use Coll L in Europe i had no idea lol i thought any kind of thinset would work, kinda sucks though Coll-L comes in smaller quantities and is much more expensive than thinset, are you guys sure it's used to set the kerdi membranes and not just the joints with Keba/Band? If it's just for the joints then that would make sense to me, if you're required to do the entire membrane with Coll-L you'd need a lot of it i think, seems weird to me
Yes please!
Hmm, looks exactly like Mapelastic A+B from Mapei. Mapei not available in US ?
A waterproof coat to cover your waterproof membrane?
Looks and acts like TEC Triple Flex, another 2 part adhesive/waterproof/crack iso.
Did you look for chemistry what liquid that is? That’s could be the only thing what you need to add to your regular thinset .
This doesn't make a lot of sense to me. The Kerdi folks say "unmodified thinset" over and over but this is basically a modified thinset.
Mike, Why not coat the Membrane with Red-Gard after instaaltion of the membrane?
You will void the Schluter warranty if you do this.
Wow I’ve Been using using schluter products since they’ve come to Canada first was the regular ditra and so on but this is news to me I’ve never heard of it ..!!!! That’s kinda shocking that they would have something in Europe and for us here in America we get another way of doing it.
It's not shocking really, the whole construction industry in North America is always 15 years behind Europe for products and installation methods. And every time it comes to NA, everyone here looks at it like it'll never work because they didn't see it before despite it being used for long periods of time elsewhere.
The construction industry here likes to stick to its old ways and even when you want to use the better products, costs will stop you dead in your tracks 99% of the time until it becomes ubiquitous here.
Change is never a bad thing especially if it shows that it works. People will pay for it knowing they have an increased protection from leaking/water damage. I know I would feel better.
Change for the sake of change is ALWAYS a bad thing.
Isaac question for you buddy i saw your video on the kerdi fix and kinda scares me because ive used the kerdi fix in my niches and other applications that i thought was right in the past and your video has proved otherwise luckily no call backs but say you repair a tile on a shower curb from a glass guy drilling wrong holes and cant achieve your 2 inch overlap without tearing off my whole curb i would have normally used kerdi fix now im confused on why its actually called kerdi fix if it cant be used for small holes or any kinf of sealing kerdi to kerdi is there anything else i can use besides kerdi fix that would work or does it 100% have to have a new patch of kerdi with a 2 inch overlap
Have you ever had a niche fail or had a call back from using kerdi board in a niche and kerdi fixing the kerdi board on all seems if the kerdi fix is made to put the niche together that means its not water tight your saying?
How is this different than using Adacryl Admix??
Can't believe shluter done us like this
There are numerous products like this, or admixes that can be combined with existing cements/thinsets/mortars...
We already have many products just like this or others that replace it.
It is basically a thinset with plastic to be used on membranes for the added bond strength and water resistance.
Here is an idea for a test: Get a box made of something the thinset will not adhere to, such as melamine.
Make a thin concrete(thinset) box inside and once it sets, remove it. Now fill that concrete box with water and see if it seeps through over time.
Are you talking about latex admixes?
@@Tilethoughts not specifically. I believe most are acrylic. Far too often it is difficult to tell what plastic it is that these products use.
@@ryszardbargiel7256 to my knowledge there's no latex additive that I know that specifically says when mixed with thinset it becomes waterproof ???like the kerdi koll... I know the customs says that makes the thinset more water resistance.
@@Tilethoughts the whole subject of "waterproof" is apparently problematic.
I don't know of latex to be polymer that is typically used for this.
I switched to 8+9 after I got tired of occassional flood tests showing water creeping through the thinset under the bands and overlaps no matter how it's mixed or how tight it's pushed in. They always pass a 72 hour flood it still made me nervous. I never felt secure doing full liquid showers with bonded drains. 8+9 is technically a liquid it just feels less.... Painty. Its also the only company Ive ever dealt with that isnt super specific about the products you use with it. It doesnt have to be an Aedex product. The atitude is, is it waterproofing mesh or fleece of any kind? Slather some 8+9 on it and go to town. Any bonded drain will work etc...
@@TileCoach No. I started this ~3-4 years ago. I was just like all the other Schluter fans. Thought it was great but I just couldn't stop worrying about the water creeping through the thinset issue. It kept me up at night and I'm not exaggerating. You can see it clear as day when you drain a 72hr flood which I always do on principal. You see the dark spots where water is creeping and many times it reaches the mud. The response I got when I talked to reps about it was not helping. I used all Schluter products which are available here from the places I work out of, so that wasn't it. The response was a mix of, your thinset is too wet/dry, your knifing it out too much/not enough, or we're aware but it is not an issue. I tried every mix and pressure I could it always seems to happen somewhere. One job it was particularly bad so I said screw it. The guy at my shop said Ardex sticks to anything and he knew of at least one guy who does his kerdi seams with it. When I talk to Ardex rep's their attitude is like, "yeah you can use Kerdi, mesh, any bonding drain, whatever." As though they know 8+9 will seal up anything. Not, "use this product mixed this way, on this surface etc... " So I still use Kerdi on the fresh pan but it's all 8+9 over the entire shower after that.
Also, I don't subscribe to the, "it's a stress test and a real shower will never be subjected to that kind of pressure and the tile will shed water, blah, blah.." Yes I kno that's true. It's what I have to tell myself to feel better about all the kerdi showers Lol. But a flood test is also not a day after day year after year test. That's a completely different kind of stress. A cumulative erosion. In many ways worse. If it can't pass a 72hr my feelings are it can't last 25 years.
How similar is this stuff to Ardex 8+9? You think you could use 8+9 to set kerdi band?
I tried using 8+9 to adhere 5 feet of kerdi band yesterday. The band was still loose as of 4 hours later.
After drying for 24 hours the 8+9 adhered very well to the kerdi. You need to use a 1/8x1t8 notch trowel to adhere it. Do it the same way that you do kerdi band. It takes awhile to dry and will bubble if you mess with it.
Polymer modified cement with SBR liquid?
Hey, where did you get the Home Depot storage shelving?
Grainger
Ill have to talk to the rep we work with. Ask him why its not over here as well.
One issue that should be considered is porosity vs permeability. Thinset as applied under banding remains porous, just like clay, but that doesnt nean it's permeable. Clay has that property: It absorbs moisture to refusal but wont pass it. That is why it can line water storage resevoirs. Still, I dont like the idea of thinset as a membrane bonder. It takes way to long to mechanically engage the fleece meaning easy debonding at the prtial cure stage. Why not have an adhesive that locks things together right away and is if very low porosity too? Schluter has engineered things with far too low a margin for error and with an eye towards long term failure as a means of planned obsolescence. All it will take is US building departments adopting EU rules and the gig is up for Schluter's installation prescription in the US. They have already backed off the highly risky idea of Ditra as an exterior membrane over frame construction whuch I am sure had some horrible failures due to the weaknesses of their plastic flashings.
Talked to a rep last week and he would say what product but he said there releasing a new product that’s in a bucket next year
Just like you said...how many showers have been done with unmodified thinset and failed with kerdi system??? I can count on one hand. This stuff sounds great but do we really need it??
My last shower lasted for 20 years thinset on sheetrock. thats it nothinng else on a fiberglass pan. i dont think shcluter will sell somethig in the usa that doesnt work.
This guy is a hunk! His wife is a lucky lady!
I live in europe. No one checks shower pans. Most builders doesn't know that you have to put hydro isolation in showers. Soo...
Sry, I have a Noobie question. Why did you mention "unmodified thinset" ? What is and which applications call for it?
Cheers
Polymer = your “modifier” ... so unmodified thinset is just cementitious mortar with no polymer additives
It’s used over the Ditra as it’s mechanically bonded and doesn’t need flex.
How much is that tub?
Thanks for the vid. Is this better than ardex 8+9? ✌🏻🇺🇸
No
That's a cali ice cream truck, I know that sound lol I would of got a fudge pop at least dude...
Hi Isaac I am very sure that they are the same as Ardex 8+9
Looks to me exactly like Ardex WPC.
Hey Isaac, can you describe/ compare the smell of the acrylic portion to anything?
Once again Isaac, you have shed light on the darkness provided by Schluter. A lot of us who have used schluter shower systems in the past, believed the systems were “almost fool-proof”if we followed the instructions and applied proper tile setting practices. It amazes me that this Coll product has suddenly appeared from the overseas Schluter market. What the hell? As many others here, I have always over engineered when it came to waterproofing my showers. I always applied Redguard to all my kerdi band joints, corners and the entire pan. When you think about it, it is kind of crazy to have waterproofed over a supposed waterproof system...🤔. You are the best man...keep the tests and great info coming. You are the only guy I watch these days on YT.
Why go to all the trouble to ship a product from UK just to botch a test...manufacturers spec sheet didn't say anything about using as a top dressing.
You are totally using it wrong. It is used to install kerdi band. Roll or trowel then put the band in it. IT IS NOT A TOPICAL WATERPROOFER AND SHOULD NOT BE PAINTED ON. READ THE DATA SHEETS MAN.
Lool I was thinking the same thing isaac takes the tough route and wonders why it fails
@@TileCoach it is not the same product. You are only assuming it is. The data sheets call for completely different applications. The ardex is also used on cemuntious boards not kerdi. You are simply not following standards and making up your own like all hacks do. IT IS NOT THE SAME PRODUCT. ARDEX DID NOT GIVE ITS FORMULA TO SHLUTER AND SAY DO WHAT YOU WANT WITH IT. SHLUTER MADE A PRODUCT TO MEET STANDERS IN GERMANY TO TAPE KERDI SEEMS.
@@The.Floor.Store.At.Your.Door44 Actually.......
@@The.Floor.Store.At.Your.Door44 If Isaac was trying to show that it is a bad product I could see jumping all over him, but he seems to strongly support this product. There are 2 possible outcomes to his flood test. It works and he proves that even applied as a topcoat it passes a flood test or it still fails and he says, ok. I didn't use it as it was intended so that proves nothing. He already had this mocked up, what is the harm in making this video instead of throwing it in the garbage?
@@avannoy308 he is saying this is how it is applied in the video. And it simply is not. That was what I got from this video. His words were you can paint it on with a roller. And you can but not like that. Ppl follow what they see in RUclips videos and this could cost someone their bathroom and no warranty to pay for damages. The product is used for an adhesive for kerdi band. The test is useless because that scenario should never be in someone's shower.
Why didn't you construct the shower pan with kerdi coll instead of mortar?? That is how it is designed.
By the time you finished putting this over an entire shower floor you could be tiling with Wedi.
If this 2pt waterproofer makes the system waterproof, what's the point of the system?
Sidenote it's scary that they can't sell the full product line here, you'd hope waterproofing standards would be just as high everywhere since water isn't any different and the percentage of wood based building materials is higher here than most of the EU right?
With Wedi systems, it's only the sealant that makes it waterproof, so, kinda the same thing. I would even say Wedi system is kind of sketchy since it's just 2 beads of sealant on a rabbet joint with thin foam. Also, it's not the Kerdi Coll that makes it, as thinset can be used instead
Schlutter warrants Kerdi showers for 10 years. So making Kerdi shower leak proof for lifetime is against increase of sale. EU regulations are much stricter and don’t tolerate gimmicks, hence they had to come with something waterproof indeed, to bind polypropylene sheets together than just cement (which is just time-bomb for leak to develop) to not be banned from EU market.
Not bad ! We use this product in Germany...before,long..long time man! The BEST products are from Sopro ! Really good things..just look about Sopro products!
I like keeping everything schluter
Is there a difference between this and using acrylic additive with regular thinset? 20 years ago many tile setters i worked with would always have acrylic on their truck. We would use it for porcelain tile and for bonding tile to certain substrates. I haven't seen acrylic additive at any tile shops or Home Depot's in years. this product seems like thinset with acrylic.
Crazy this video is 3 years old
Isaac I don't think you're using this in the right application. Seems like it's used instead of unmodified thinset to bond the membranes.
From the description on the UK website: "They are suitable for adhering and sealing overlaps of Schlüter®-KERDI membranes. In addition, they can be used to tightly seal the edges of the seaming tape "
Would be interesting to see a comparison flood test of an area made with the US unmodified thinset and an area with Kerdi Coll-L
I agree a side by side comparison using unmodified thinset to install kerdi and then one using kerdi coll would be interesting to flood test
Seriously as a homeowner I’m absolutely confused now! I’m remodeling 2 bathrooms and using the Schluter complete shower kit. I’m genuinely loosing sleep over these darn showers after seeing so many fails. I live in a rural area and tradesmen with proper knowledge are almost nonexistent. So I’m having to do this myself. I’ve spent just over 6 months researching, playing with tile and trying to master this trade.
I felt confident with the Schluter system until seeing this video. IF I could find a decent tradesmen in my area I would love to hire them BUT I can’t find any. Reading so many negative comments I’m even more stressed out. Anyone willing to share their thoughts is greatly appreciated. Please refrain from negative replies or comments.
I’ve always used modified thin set on my Kerdi installs and haven’t had a problem. I know other tile setters in my area that have been using kerdi for 10 years and still no problems. I’m sure that over time you could have a problem at the seems but I feel confident it will be decades down the road. Just make sure you pitch everything to the drain. Don’t give the water a chance to stand. Also get a good bond, follow the directions from schluter. The amount of what that gets through the tile and grout is so minimum that the waterproofing, with a good porcelain tile and sealed grout, is just insurance. Don’t stress man!
Frank Nelson thank you for the reassurance. I bought the pre-sloped base kit to make the job easier for me since I’m not a professional. Original I was going to do the traditional dry pack and while experimenting I realized just how easy it is to mess up and end up with a nightmare shower. That’s how I came across this and Schluter even boast its diy friendly.
Do you think a product like red guard would give an additional layer of protection over the seams. It wasn’t that expensive in my opinion and seemed like it would keep the modified thin set from ever getting wet. Based on your experience it sounds like overkill but if red guard will add additional protection that’s more peace of mind for me.
JP if at the end of the day it makes you feel better then by all means. I’ve not used red guard before, just mapeis aqua defense. I’ve heard red guard has a harsh odor. Plus green looks cooler against the orange. 😂
What does it smell like
Basically sika 110 armatec?
Isnt Ardex 8 and 9 pretty much the same ?
Im using PCI from Germany 👌
Its nice to not have to mix match products.
So... Did you go out an buy an ice cream 😂
Isn't that what aqua defense is?
Wonder why it's not in NA yet ? It's probably not required by code and therefore "too expensive" in a lot of people's minds.
Start raising the building code standards, and good products will flood the market.
similar to ardex
The only good thing about Kerdi it's light and able to get into elevator for tall buildings great if you redgard over it lol.😎
Please stop moving camera guy. Other than that great video.
Are you sure that won't mold !