Honestly I think the Tamiya clears in the small rattle cans are the best for models. I do model trains and like to paint and decal my own equipment. For the longest time I used clears meant for an airbrush since I airbrush the paints on them. The rattle cans are easier and faster and can give just as good results without having to clean the airbrush. I've tried them all, the krylon gloss works pretty good for the coat before decals. The Tamiya clears are just superior, namely the flat. You don't need much at all. The great thing about the Tamiya flat is that after the decals are done, and I wash and dry the models, the flat just needs one very light coat. You use barely any to cover the models (HO scale). That one coat covers ALL decal film and they literally look painted on. If you are doing model cars and whatnot that you are going to wet-sand and polish then the Krylon or Rustoleum would be the best as far as price vs. amount you get. Especially since you are going to be doing a few coats and somewhat heavy. Great video!
Thanks, for this video! I was especially happy to see your spray can technique. I've been too "heavy on the finger" and seeing what you did should help refine my technique.
As far as I know, the matte enamels from Rustoleum are not plastic safe, and it has that big "stops rust" on the can. Rustoleum makes clear coats for plastics. I haven't used it yet, but they have a universal clear dead flat that has uv protection and is rated for plastic. It has three solvents in it. Acetone, Toluene, Xylene. It is no wonder it melted the plastics.
Thanks. Couple of questions: How long do you allow the color coats to dry before coats of your Clears? Rustoleum company specialists say to wait only 10 to 15 minutes between each coat of any product...but their canned sprays do NOT advise this. It's very annoying. 2. Have you tested or used Rustoleum's Universal Gloss Clear Hammered spray by chance? I recently sprayed 3 car body panels with Rustoleum Navy Blue Gloss Enamel (2 coats over 1-coat Gloss Blue paint+primer) and let dry for 40 minutes from last coat. Then I applied the Clear Enamel. First coat was very light, No blistering. Waited 30 minutes, 2nd coat, a little wrinkle in 4 places. Waited 9 hours, 3rd coat...it got worse! 4th coat 30 minutes later...even worse. 😆 Ruined my perfect rattle can spray job...it had zero runs or drips. Now I will have to wet sand all 3 car panels and apply something else to cover up the fail. I'm curious if the Clear Hammered product would help cover this and some body defects by reflecting light differently, as it does. If so, I'd use it on the whole car, as it has little chips and gouges here and there...27 year old work car. I called the company, they said ALL layers of paint must be applied within 1 hour from start time, or the user must wait 48+ hours to start the 1 hour application window again. Their cans don't describe the 1 hour criteria like their agents do though. Bad written directions. Thanks again. Feel free anybody to chime in.
Barbatos one interesting thing you might not know is that pure water based acrylics on spray cans also has a flammeble marking not because there are any solvents but the can it self contains aersol witch is flammeble.
Krylon is honestly the best that you can get if you are going to use a can at all. The quality and price is simply unmatched. It’s sold everywhere. There isn’t a “hobby” surcharge like Tamiya, or Testors, or GSI Creos, or any other specialty paint. It’s artist quality and made for all surfaces.
The reason you had paint blisters and reaction is because you need to apply the first and second coat with a light misc spray. Let it dry 15 mins in between each light coat. After you can spray thick coats as many as you want. all good products you just have to know how to properly use them
It would have been nice to have done 2 "before" preparations of the base layer so when you sprayed over one of them with the top coat we could see the difference side by side but ultimately I got what I came for. Thank you.
You'll find most outdoor model railroaders use Krylon, 1- size of can, 2- size of our models. I use Krylon flat, UV resistant. FYI: sunlight will cause the lacquer to yellow, that stands out over white. I use Krylon on plastic & wood (painted & bare) buildings. Krylon also has a version formulated for plastics. That is the Fusion line of paints. They are meant for plastic outdoor furniture & planters. I have used Fusion paint on plastic boxcars & the clear on top of paint, no problems. Large cans are not marketed for modeling, spray is heavier & a larger volume. My experience with Rust-Oleum paints are they seem to dry "soft", I can dig my finger nail into the coat. Krylon make clear acrylic sprays (slightly smaller cans) used on paintings. These clears are also recommended for use on decals printed on a home printer to affix the ink to the paper for water dipping by decal paper manufacturer. I have used these on old decals to prevent splitting with success..
Your videos are superlative. I have learned so much in a short amount of time. Keep it up my man. I watched so many other youtubers and learned nothing. Wish I had found yours first.
i agree painted a 68 fastback w ppg paints and used cheap spray can clear looked great couple of years later it showed cracks in the finish not worth it
@@scooterdoughmas3012 in my case I had been using Rust-Oleum for about a year, boxing finished models and didn't know that the paint was reacting with the clear. By the time I noticed I had 8 kits with a garbage finish. Live and learn.
I just bought a can of that Krylon Clear Gloss Sealer today from Lowes. See i have a Mini Bike with metal frame, fenders and gas tank that i am currently in the process of taking off all the old paint down to bare metal and want to give it a nice new paint job so it looks new again. I'm just afraid that after i lay down all the paint and go to use the clear gloss sealer on it it might turn all that new paint into a bunch of crackles and then i'll really be pissed lol. Do you think i can trust the Krylon Clear Gloss Sealer to do the job right or should i just find a more expensive automotive paint sealer online to play it safe ? I want the final paint job to come out looking nice and glossy slick like a new cars paint job ya know what i mean.
I had that issue with painting small diecast bodies. The wrinkling and lifting of paint. It would always be the roof for many of my vehicles. I still have zero explanation for it too. Even plastic bodies it would do the same on the roof. Cleaning with alcohol didn't make a difference. It would constantly ruin my paint and frustrate me to no end.
I too had adverse reactions with a few brands I tried and not only that it just seems to be wasting product going through a spray can. I would rather just use the airbrush where I have more control and can regulate how much is coming out. Might be worth doing a test to compare how far a can will go compared to say a bottle of Alclad. I would put my money on the Alclad every time and feel even though its more expensive it will go a whole lot further than these cans, and you wont waste as much (over spray) which we know does not need to be tested.
The car had pledged sprayed on it. Maybe the enamels maybe reacted weird on the floor cleaner. That's the only difference from the car to the spoons. Hope that helps
I've tried those clear "household" coatings, myself. My opinion is, they aren't worth the trouble or the risk. You can't tell in advance when, where, or if you'll get a reaction. Another thing, when they DO work; it is only on larger models. For very small models and the smaller scales, they are too "coarse" to really get into smaller details. Even with a very light finger, on the smaller scales; the details tend to get filled in with the clear. I've ruined enough models trying to make it work that I just don't even make an attempt anymore. But, your videos are a good resource for those who wish to try.
On the rustoleum enamel clear coat i get a different result when i spray in on the spoon to when i spray it on the figure part. On the spoon its amooth and resistant, on the figure plastic it is just a bit tacky and can scrape the pint off.
I need a chart to show me what paints I can use these glosses over! I have ruined a car, and have had success. (I don't take a chance anymore, but I am curious as to where I COULD use the Rust/Kryl topcoats...I have some leftover!)
!!!!!!!! Try 'Rust-Oleum' American Accents 2X Ultra Cover Matte Clear >> After 20 years I have finally found a Matte Clear that works perfectly... !!!!!!!!
How dry was the clear coats you sprayed on the green car body when you switched brands? In the video you barely let it dry before switching to the other brand. That could be why you had such a reaction.
Sprays will do that because of the temperature and humidity. The orange peel affect on the car from the first Krylon is because its drying before it hits the car.
Rustoleum is generally better for metal not really plastic. Since it is an enamel base it is more durable. For plastic models the krylon is better, but for someone like me who is into metal lightsabers and who does weathering on them I generally go with rustoleum because my experience with the krylon is that is starts chipping after a while and doesn't look that great.
You did not test Rust-oleum Painters touch 2 X , that is what I use and have gotten better results with both the Matte and Gloss clears. I did use the Rust-oleum you tested and it worked OK but the 2 X works better. I will try the Krylon when I run out of what I have just to see but it is hard to mess with success. Do you plan a test with alcohol base inks? I know you did a test with acrylic inks just wondering if they apply the same.
@@barbatosrex9473 yes I found on Amazon a set by Piccassio comes in a 20 color set for 20.00 bucks. If you do a test with them there is a trick to open them. They say cut the top but what I did to avoid a mess used thumb tacks you use on a bulletin board. I just pieced the top. If you cut off the top it squirts out. What I want to use these for is my wood buildings as a stain. I bought the renegade velocity AB and love it.
Another test I greatly benefited from. I've used that Krylon 1311 before and like it just the same. Would you call it as good as Testors Dullcote and Tamiya TS-80? Been wanting to stray away from the due to the price.
Great video its hard for me to get other brand spray cans because i live on a island so i cant order the cans via airmails but i do have krylon localy so give me a option to top coat
For sure. 2K is my favorite clear. I demoed it last month here. I get it from my local auto paint store. I just got in yesterday a flattening agent for it also. Nothing beats 2K
I'm confused, you said the Krylon lifted the paint on the passenger side of the car but in the video you only sprayed the drivers side? Also if I am going to spray clear from a can I prefer the Testers One Coat Wet Look it looks awesome and does not yellow. I've had issues with the Rustoleum clears yellowing after a couple days so I stay away from them
So I've just recently started messing with painting, airbrushing etc. Mostly with figures fro McFarlane. I'm primarily brushing Vallejo and army painter paints. First figure I've done so far I tried using army painter matte clear coat but it came out really hard and ended up putting way too much on. I tried using a brush on Vallejo matte coat wouldn't harden. And I tried mod podge cause I was desperate and had plenty. It mostly hardened but was still tacky where the Vallejo was tacky. Based on all that would you recommend the matte krylon you used? Or is there something else that could be better? I'm a lil hesitant on spray cans cause the army painter came out so fast it caught me off guard.
Just to test out how good the Gloss is, turning a flat color Gloss. It's for the camera. If it started out Gloss then I Gloss over that, the viewers won't see what these cans did.
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks for explaining that. I’m an artist. I create all my own props and costumes for the characters I create. I’ve been doing this for over 40 years. This is an area that I find has a lot to give me in that respect. Not that long ago there was no RUclips. I’m learning new things from unusual sources. The information you’ve imparted has been of great value. If I ask stupid questions from time to time it’s because I’m going to take your knowledge and do something completely untraditional with it. Thanks again
I wanted to test out a few of these but after driving to 4 different stores in my area this was all I could find. I'll probably do a part 2 as I did find the Rust-Oleum 2X which is one I wanted for this test.
Something Krylon uses in their Fusion series of paints makes me have severe reactions if I am not wearing full respirator and goggles(even outdoors). I never had that problem before with any paint.
You should really be boycotting it because there are much better quality paints and clears out there for just a few dollars more. Cheap paint yields cheap results and the sooner builders realize that, the better their builds will be in the end.
Honestly I think the Tamiya clears in the small rattle cans are the best for models. I do model trains and like to paint and decal my own equipment. For the longest time I used clears meant for an airbrush since I airbrush the paints on them. The rattle cans are easier and faster and can give just as good results without having to clean the airbrush. I've tried them all, the krylon gloss works pretty good for the coat before decals. The Tamiya clears are just superior, namely the flat. You don't need much at all. The great thing about the Tamiya flat is that after the decals are done, and I wash and dry the models, the flat just needs one very light coat. You use barely any to cover the models (HO scale). That one coat covers ALL decal film and they literally look painted on.
If you are doing model cars and whatnot that you are going to wet-sand and polish then the Krylon or Rustoleum would be the best as far as price vs. amount you get. Especially since you are going to be doing a few coats and somewhat heavy.
Great video!
Thanks, for this video! I was especially happy to see your spray can technique. I've been too "heavy on the finger" and seeing what you did should help refine my technique.
As far as I know, the matte enamels from Rustoleum are not plastic safe, and it has that big "stops rust" on the can. Rustoleum makes clear coats for plastics. I haven't used it yet, but they have a universal clear dead flat that has uv protection and is rated for plastic. It has three solvents in it. Acetone, Toluene, Xylene. It is no wonder it melted the plastics.
A comparison to Rustoleum’s 2X clear would be interesting . Maybe the color wouldn’t craze and it would work with acrylics
Thanks. Couple of questions:
How long do you allow the color coats to dry before coats of your Clears? Rustoleum company specialists say to wait only 10 to 15 minutes between each coat of any product...but their canned sprays do NOT advise this. It's very annoying.
2. Have you tested or used Rustoleum's Universal Gloss Clear Hammered spray by chance?
I recently sprayed 3 car body panels with Rustoleum Navy Blue Gloss Enamel (2 coats over 1-coat Gloss Blue paint+primer) and let dry for 40 minutes from last coat. Then I applied the Clear Enamel. First coat was very light, No blistering. Waited 30 minutes, 2nd coat, a little wrinkle in 4 places. Waited 9 hours, 3rd coat...it got worse! 4th coat 30 minutes later...even worse. 😆 Ruined my perfect rattle can spray job...it had zero runs or drips. Now I will have to wet sand all 3 car panels and apply something else to cover up the fail. I'm curious if the Clear Hammered product would help cover this and some body defects by reflecting light differently, as it does. If so, I'd use it on the whole car, as it has little chips and gouges here and there...27 year old work car.
I called the company, they said ALL layers of paint must be applied within 1 hour from start time, or the user must wait 48+ hours to start the 1 hour application window again. Their cans don't describe the 1 hour criteria like their agents do though. Bad written directions.
Thanks again. Feel free anybody to chime in.
Barbatos one interesting thing you might not know is that pure water based acrylics on spray cans also has a flammeble marking not because there are any solvents but the can it self contains aersol witch is flammeble.
You mean flammable
Krylon is honestly the best that you can get if you are going to use a can at all. The quality and price is simply unmatched. It’s sold everywhere. There isn’t a “hobby” surcharge like Tamiya, or Testors, or GSI Creos, or any other specialty paint. It’s artist quality and made for all surfaces.
The reason you had paint blisters and reaction is because you need to apply the first and second coat with a light misc spray. Let it dry 15 mins in between each light coat. After you can spray thick coats as many as you want. all good products you just have to know how to properly use them
I have the Krylon Matte 1311. It ate up my waterslides on my test piece.
Thank you…..your videos are so helpful.
I just used some kylon black hammered metal on a Z'Gok E gonna see how it turns out
It would have been nice to have done 2 "before" preparations of the base layer so when you sprayed over one of them with the top coat we could see the difference side by side but ultimately I got what I came for. Thank you.
fantastic video, helped me decide what one to use to coat my keyboard. thank you
You'll find most outdoor model railroaders use Krylon, 1- size of can, 2- size of our models. I use Krylon flat, UV resistant. FYI: sunlight will cause the lacquer to yellow, that stands out over white. I use Krylon on plastic & wood (painted & bare) buildings. Krylon also has a version formulated for plastics. That is the Fusion line of paints. They are meant for plastic outdoor furniture & planters. I have used Fusion paint on plastic boxcars & the clear on top of paint, no problems. Large cans are not marketed for modeling, spray is heavier & a larger volume. My experience with Rust-Oleum paints are they seem to dry "soft", I can dig my finger nail into the coat.
Krylon make clear acrylic sprays (slightly smaller cans) used on paintings. These clears are also recommended for use on decals printed on a home printer to affix the ink to the paper for water dipping by decal paper manufacturer. I have used these on old decals to prevent splitting with success..
Your videos are superlative. I have learned so much in a short amount of time. Keep it up my man. I watched so many other youtubers and learned nothing. Wish I had found yours first.
Thanks buddy for the kind words. Many more vids to come. Thank you for watching 👍
It's always a hit or miss with caned clears. There so hot that they can start to craze even after months of having a good paint job.
i agree painted a 68 fastback w ppg paints and used cheap spray can clear looked great couple of years later it showed cracks in the finish not worth it
@@scooterdoughmas3012 in my case I had been using Rust-Oleum for about a year, boxing finished models and didn't know that the paint was reacting with the clear. By the time I noticed I had 8 kits with a garbage finish. Live and learn.
Great comparison and test. Thank you!
I just bought a can of that Krylon Clear Gloss Sealer today from Lowes. See i have a Mini Bike with metal frame, fenders and gas tank that i am currently in the process of taking off all the old paint down to bare metal and want to give it a nice new paint job so it looks new again. I'm just afraid that after i lay down all the paint and go to use the clear gloss sealer on it it might turn all that new paint into a bunch of crackles and then i'll really be pissed lol. Do you think i can trust the Krylon Clear Gloss Sealer to do the job right or should i just find a more expensive automotive paint sealer online to play it safe ? I want the final paint job to come out looking nice and glossy slick like a new cars paint job ya know what i mean.
Great work.
Thank you
Great vid, thanks for sharing!!!!!!!!!!! 👍👍👍
The matte clear enamel fucked up my paint job which created this weird webbing effect that I won't touch it with a 10 foot pole
much respect thanks for the info
You're welcome buddy. Thanks for watching
Thank you, gonna grab some Krylon!
Oversea some of them used can paint in airbrush and get very good results for quality of paint
I used the krylon matte finish and when it dried it had glitter in it did the same thing happen to you?
It didn't, sounds like it pulled up the base paint
Super helpful! Thank you!
I had that issue with painting small diecast bodies. The wrinkling and lifting of paint. It would always be the roof for many of my vehicles. I still have zero explanation for it too. Even plastic bodies it would do the same on the roof. Cleaning with alcohol didn't make a difference. It would constantly ruin my paint and frustrate me to no end.
I too had adverse reactions with a few brands I tried and not only that it just seems to be wasting product going through a spray can. I would rather just use the airbrush where I have more control and can regulate how much is coming out. Might be worth doing a test to compare how far a can will go compared to say a bottle of Alclad. I would put my money on the Alclad every time and feel even though its more expensive it will go a whole lot further than these cans, and you wont waste as much (over spray) which we know does not need to be tested.
The car had pledged sprayed on it. Maybe the enamels maybe reacted weird on the floor cleaner. That's the only difference from the car to the spoons. Hope that helps
Rustoleum clear had a reaction over 2k clear for me. I used because I ran out of 2k.
I've tried those clear "household" coatings, myself. My opinion is, they aren't worth the trouble or the risk. You can't tell in advance when, where, or if you'll get a reaction. Another thing, when they DO work; it is only on larger models. For very small models and the smaller scales, they are too "coarse" to really get into smaller details. Even with a very light finger, on the smaller scales; the details tend to get filled in with the clear. I've ruined enough models trying to make it work that I just don't even make an attempt anymore. But, your videos are a good resource for those who wish to try.
Can’t spray lacquer over poly. Poly can be sprayed over lacquer.
I've had a good experience with the krylon matte finish, great budget topcoat. But suuuper easy to overspray, just gotta do lil spritzes
Good job Brick
On the rustoleum enamel clear coat i get a different result when i spray in on the spoon to when i spray it on the figure part. On the spoon its amooth and resistant, on the figure plastic it is just a bit tacky and can scrape the pint off.
I need a chart to show me what paints I can use these glosses over! I have ruined a car, and have had success. (I don't take a chance anymore, but I am curious as to where I COULD use the Rust/Kryl topcoats...I have some leftover!)
!!!!!!!! Try 'Rust-Oleum' American Accents 2X Ultra Cover Matte Clear >> After 20 years I have finally found a Matte Clear that works perfectly... !!!!!!!!
I used krylon matte clear once on my first mg sazabi. It made the water slide decals semi transparent. I am leery about using krylon again
Thanks!!
Great video I used to use both brands until I decanted them for my air brush I did a video on it will only use rustoleum
How dry was the clear coats you sprayed on the green car body when you switched brands? In the video you barely let it dry before switching to the other brand. That could be why you had such a reaction.
It looks like I didn't let it dry but it was fully cure in my dehydrator
Sprays will do that because of the temperature and humidity. The orange peel affect on the car from the first Krylon is because its drying before it hits the car.
Rustoleum is generally better for metal not really plastic. Since it is an enamel base it is more durable. For plastic models the krylon is better, but for someone like me who is into metal lightsabers and who does weathering on them I generally go with rustoleum because my experience with the krylon is that is starts chipping after a while and doesn't look that great.
I like either of them but ive been using triple thick glaze from krylon lately i love that stuff
You did not test Rust-oleum Painters touch 2 X , that is what I use and have gotten better results with both the Matte and Gloss clears. I did use the Rust-oleum you tested and it worked OK but the 2 X works better. I will try the Krylon when I run out of what I have just to see but it is hard to mess with success. Do you plan a test with alcohol base inks? I know you did a test with acrylic inks just wondering if they apply the same.
I do plan on testing Alcohol Inks. Any brand in particular you want me to test?
@@barbatosrex9473 yes I found on Amazon a set by Piccassio comes in a 20 color set for 20.00 bucks. If you do a test with them there is a trick to open them. They say cut the top but what I did to avoid a mess used thumb tacks you use on a bulletin board. I just pieced the top. If you cut off the top it squirts out. What I want to use these for is my wood buildings as a stain. I bought the renegade velocity AB and love it.
What about the Rustoleum Painter's Touch 2X spray paint for plastics?
Another test I greatly benefited from. I've used that Krylon 1311 before and like it just the same. Would you call it as good as Testors Dullcote and Tamiya TS-80? Been wanting to stray away from the due to the price.
how many coats did he do for the colored paint?
I find the Krylon is not dull enough for my applications. It is a bit too satin. Anybody have suggestions for what brand has the flattest finish?
Has anyone tried out the Dupli Color quart size primer and clear on a airbrush that would be a good video
Great video its hard for me to get other brand spray cans because i live on a island so i cant order the cans via airmails but i do have krylon localy so give me a option to top coat
tried the Vallejo matt can........so thick. very hard to coat small parts without it overloading the part
I used Krylon primer and clear coat on a Bandai MG Zaku. It was not cheap using five cans at $12 each. After that, I bought an airbrush.
Airbrush all the way 👍
Hej my friend, you don't need to clear with an enamel over a 2k paint, as the 2k is more durable than the clear enamel. :)
For sure. 2K is my favorite clear. I demoed it last month here. I get it from my local auto paint store. I just got in yesterday a flattening agent for it also. Nothing beats 2K
@@barbatosrex9473 Good to hear it my friend! Tack care!
I'm confused, you said the Krylon lifted the paint on the passenger side of the car but in the video you only sprayed the drivers side? Also if I am going to spray clear from a can I prefer the Testers One Coat Wet Look it looks awesome and does not yellow. I've had issues with the Rustoleum clears yellowing after a couple days so I stay away from them
Guess I should have watched a little more, lol
Is the krylon matte finish scratch resistant?
So I've just recently started messing with painting, airbrushing etc. Mostly with figures fro McFarlane. I'm primarily brushing Vallejo and army painter paints. First figure I've done so far I tried using army painter matte clear coat but it came out really hard and ended up putting way too much on. I tried using a brush on Vallejo matte coat wouldn't harden. And I tried mod podge cause I was desperate and had plenty. It mostly hardened but was still tacky where the Vallejo was tacky.
Based on all that would you recommend the matte krylon you used? Or is there something else that could be better? I'm a lil hesitant on spray cans cause the army painter came out so fast it caught me off guard.
Go with Tamiya or Mr Color spray can Matt. They are the best out there
@@barbatosrex9473 will do, thanks so much for the tips and tricks. The videos are absolutely awesome.
i see alot of people use these on gunpla and craze their panel line inking.
Any chance you know how to strip these topcoats without harming the plastic?
You can't, thats why you should use tamiya
These are in the tops of modeling reviews. Nice presentations so we know how the results are wh@t they’re reported to be
Sorry if this is a stupid question but why start with a matt and then make it gloss?
Just to test out how good the Gloss is, turning a flat color Gloss. It's for the camera. If it started out Gloss then I Gloss over that, the viewers won't see what these cans did.
@@barbatosrex9473 thanks for explaining that. I’m an artist. I create all my own props and costumes for the characters I create. I’ve been doing this for over 40 years. This is an area that I find has a lot to give me in that respect. Not that long ago there was no RUclips. I’m learning new things from unusual sources. The information you’ve imparted has been of great value. If I ask stupid questions from time to time it’s because I’m going to take your knowledge and do something completely untraditional with it. Thanks again
Have you tried this on straight plastic with decals on?
I haven't. Some have used it but I would test it first. Believe it or not once a decal has fully dried most clears can go on top of them
The important one you missed is the Krylon crystal clear
I wanted to test out a few of these but after driving to 4 different stores in my area this was all I could find. I'll probably do a part 2 as I did find the Rust-Oleum 2X which is one I wanted for this test.
So krylon is the way to go then
Anyone know a good matte clear coat for airbrush? The pledge future stuff is magical for gloss, so hoping to find something cheap for matte as well
Unfortunately nothing like Pledge for matte coat. Testors has Dullcoat for airbrush is pretty inexpensive and is highly recommended
I love watching your videos, they're so informative. I hope you open a Patreon some day, I'd love to donate a couple dollars a month
Something Krylon uses in their Fusion series of paints makes me have severe reactions if I am not wearing full respirator and goggles(even outdoors). I never had that problem before with any paint.
You are sensitive to solvents, remember to use a respirator or just use acrylics.
👋👍👍
I thought we were boycotting rustoleum because they turned there back on model builders?
We are. I just wanted to compare it to Krylon which thankfully is better than Rust O
You should really be boycotting it because there are much better quality paints and clears out there for just a few dollars more. Cheap paint yields cheap results and the sooner builders realize that, the better their builds will be in the end.
@@sohchx yea, testors enamles are still good, but, im boycotting completely
Rust-Oleum made my decals pink. Dont use it
Painting a small object is easy. Try painting a car body with these products and it's terrible.