Hi Matthew, I had to laugh when I saw the pocket wizards. I've been using them for so long. WRC rallying for both remote cameras and flash. Plus GAA Football and Hurling here in Ireland before covid and since then for covering live music concerts. They are bullet proof!
Thanks for the comment. Those little devices are so useful. But there have been occasions when they didn't fire. Batteries and connections were all fine. Just wondering if you've ever had situations when they failed to work properly?
Yes, from time to time. Firstly it's very important I've found to only use the pocketwizard triggering cable. There are many cheaper brands but they can give misfires, particularly when the unit is connected to the camera but is not placed in the hotshoe example: :when I was shooting rallying I liked to use fill flash. Having the speedlight on top of the camera was not always the best place so I'd fit a flash trigger in the hotshoe and place 1,2 or sometimes 3 speedlights in the best places to light up both cars and the crowd...a little light shooting into the crowd was nice. I found that only their own brand of cable was best when the unit was not in the hotshoe. This worked well. Of course being outside the weather i.e. rain, snow, frost can f--k things up. Covering the camera, lens and unit from the rain but again being able to have the pocketwizard not in the hotshoe helps as I could completely protect the camera and run the cable and unit to the best position possible for signal and setup. This work ok. Now that I'm shooting live music having so much electronics (close by) I think can cause problems but all in all I can get good results. Again using their own cables is important. As flssh is a no go the units can be placed in the hotshoe so that helps. If the concert is outside the weather comes into play again. So covering is important. My biggest issue related to shooting music is when placing a camera overhead of the stage. The camera is placed in the lighting rig and requires me to position it there hours in advance so it needs to be in the corect position and with the correct exposure settings for the time of the gig. This has become easier over the last number of years as I can connect to the camera with my phone and change the settings as required
@@TrevorMcGrathPhotography Thanks so much for this information. It's possible other remote devices interfered with mine. I will have to do a some tests but thanks again for the invaluable info and good luck for the future.
I’ve not used the 10-20mm but I know it’s an f4 lens. For wide shots of sports stadiums I’m usually at f8 so f4 is definitely not an issue. With the 15-35 I’m also usually panning sequentially in portrait mode to get those super wide looking shots so by using a 10mm aspherical lens would save a lot of time. Hope that helps.
ONE spare battery for the R5 and R6? I suppose if you shoot almost completely with the R3 then the low use on the R5 and R6 obviate the need to swap batteries but for photographing high school (American) football I always have four charged backup batteries for my R6 and R5 (two for the R6 which has two batteries in the vertical grip and two for the R5 sans vertical grip).
Hi Adam. Thanks for the comment. It's probably worth bearing in mind that your football games in the US are around 3 hours long! That's quite a long time out in the field. Our football and rugby games here are only around 90 minutes long. It's only during some Cricket games when i need to start to think about changing batteries but i would leave one on charge and then use a powerbank in the field to charge the cameras, as well as the M1 MacBook, through USB C Power Delivery. The R3 is generally fine on one battery with a bit of charge from the powerbank during intervals. But i think i will eventually get a battery grip for the R5.
Hi thanks for the comment. I use smallrig mostly but also have one made by Niceyrig both compatible with the R5 and R6. The screw holes are universal sizes. I have another smallrig L plate cage for the R3 also.
Hi Matthew, I had to laugh when I saw the pocket wizards. I've been using them for so long. WRC rallying for both remote cameras and flash. Plus GAA Football and Hurling here in Ireland before covid and since then for covering live music concerts. They are bullet proof!
Thanks for the comment. Those little devices are so useful. But there have been occasions when they didn't fire. Batteries and connections were all fine. Just wondering if you've ever had situations when they failed to work properly?
Yes, from time to time. Firstly it's very important I've found to only use the pocketwizard triggering cable. There are many cheaper brands but they can give misfires, particularly when the unit is connected to the camera but is not placed in the hotshoe example: :when I was shooting rallying I liked to use fill flash. Having the speedlight on top of the camera was not always the best place so I'd fit a flash trigger in the hotshoe and place 1,2 or sometimes 3 speedlights in the best places to light up both cars and the crowd...a little light shooting into the crowd was nice. I found that only their own brand of cable was best when the unit was not in the hotshoe. This worked well. Of course being outside the weather i.e. rain, snow, frost can f--k things up. Covering the camera, lens and unit from the rain but again being able to have the pocketwizard not in the hotshoe helps as I could completely protect the camera and run the cable and unit to the best position possible for signal and setup. This work ok.
Now that I'm shooting live music having so much electronics (close by) I think can cause problems but all in all I can get good results. Again using their own cables is important. As flssh is a no go the units can be placed in the hotshoe so that helps. If the concert is outside the weather comes into play again. So covering is important. My biggest issue related to shooting music is when placing a camera overhead of the stage. The camera is placed in the lighting rig and requires me to position it there hours in advance so it needs to be in the corect position and with the correct exposure settings for the time of the gig. This has become easier over the last number of years as I can connect to the camera with my phone and change the settings as required
@@TrevorMcGrathPhotography Thanks so much for this information. It's possible other remote devices interfered with mine. I will have to do a some tests but thanks again for the invaluable info and good luck for the future.
Thoughts on 15-35 vs 10-20? Wide angle is my only hole (although I do have 16 f2.8) in my lens lineup?
I’ve not used the 10-20mm but I know it’s an f4 lens. For wide shots of sports stadiums I’m usually at f8 so f4 is definitely not an issue. With the 15-35 I’m also usually panning sequentially in portrait mode to get those super wide looking shots so by using a 10mm aspherical lens would save a lot of time. Hope that helps.
@ thank you!
Great selection
Thanks for the comment.
@@mstarling79 your welcome
Hi Matthew, just wondering which laptop plateau you are using and how do you attach this to your bag?
Hi thanks for the comment. That was just a cheap laptop stand from Kmart. It slides under the handle of the bag.
What bag is that? Looks good.
That is the Neewer 2-in-1 Rolling Camera Bag
ONE spare battery for the R5 and R6? I suppose if you shoot almost completely with the R3 then the low use on the R5 and R6 obviate the need to swap batteries but for photographing high school (American) football I always have four charged backup batteries for my R6 and R5 (two for the R6 which has two batteries in the vertical grip and two for the R5 sans vertical grip).
Hi Adam. Thanks for the comment. It's probably worth bearing in mind that your football games in the US are around 3 hours long! That's quite a long time out in the field. Our football and rugby games here are only around 90 minutes long. It's only during some Cricket games when i need to start to think about changing batteries but i would leave one on charge and then use a powerbank in the field to charge the cameras, as well as the M1 MacBook, through USB C Power Delivery. The R3 is generally fine on one battery with a bit of charge from the powerbank during intervals. But i think i will eventually get a battery grip for the R5.
Where did you get the white lens cover and is it just Canon only or other makes covered.
Hi thanks for taking the time to view and comment - the covers can be found. here photographyblinds.com/collections/camshield
@@mstarling79 thanks so much
Which L-bracket do you use?
Hi thanks for the comment. I use smallrig mostly but also have one made by Niceyrig both compatible with the R5 and R6. The screw holes are universal sizes. I have another smallrig L plate cage for the R3 also.