2007-2013 BMW 328i E90 SULEV Valve cover gasket replacement
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- Опубликовано: 24 сен 2022
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Hey guys in this video I'll demonstrate how to replace valve cover gasket on N52 engine on BMW 3 series 328i which is also Super Ultra Low Emission Vehicle (SULEV) this repair can be done by dealer absolutely for free under sulev warranty if your car qualifies:
1. Must be less than 15 years
2. Must have less than 150k miles
Same procedure applies to SULEV BMW 128i exactly the same way of doing it
Thank you for watching 
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I have to comment to thank you. This is the second time I've tackled this project. The first time, when I got the the step of actually pulling out the valve cover, it was on of the most frustrating times of my life. It took me around 7 hours over the course of two days. It wasn't until I found out the "trick" of pulling off that weather strip in the back that I finally cleared it. This time, I did it in under 10 minutes. All the little tips you gave, I followed them to a T, moving that AC line, unscrewing the coolant reservoir, noticing where it rubs on the ECU housing. Every little bit of advice helped. Thank you for making this video. Hopefully I won't have to rewatch it in 70,000 miles.
Rightt 😂 take notes 📝😎
This guy goes in so much detail and explains everything to you , like you big brother would. Thanks bud awesome job.
Thank you, appreciate your feedback🙌
I wish everyone did detail like him. Love it!
Dude really educational video it’s worth watching every single minute off it, you show us every detail of it like it should
Thank you appreciate your feedback🙌
I know it’s been said, but this was extremely helpful! I’m not mechanically inept, but BMWs are foreign territory for me and I didn’t want mess anything up on the car I just bought with the intention of daily driving. One extra thing I did that helped me was unbolting the other strut bar and removing the section of plastic it goes through. After that, just pop the passenger side of the wiper cowl up and it gave me miles more room for reinstalling the valve cover. I struggled quite badly removing it, I wish I had thought to do it beforehand. Obviously for you with the experience you have you don’t need to do this, but as a newbie it helped me a bunch!
This helped me out getting the idea of it I’m going step by step since I’m dealing with the same thing on my bmw great video very informative makes me feel even more confident on working on the car
Happy to help👍
I followed your steps to replace on a 2013 128i. Excellent detailed instructions. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
The only mistake I made was when connecting the injectors harness I bent one of the prongs over injector #1. This caused a rough startup. My advise is to make sure the harness is aligned perfectly before pressing down on it.
This guy is a Superman to be able to perform this service on the street.
😁 thank you, just an average Tuesday 🤷♂️ doing it everyday
Lol i done a 3 series water pump and thermo on the street , a top gasket is kids play , BTW he didnt check the pvc valve for vacumm pressure 🤦🏻♂️
What a hero🤡😂
Sir, you are a genius! Did the job but got misfire codes. Car was shaking like the Jumanji ride at six flags. I thought it's the valvetronic motor as I was messing around with the 4mm alen to remove it(I wish I saw your video before the fcp auto one). It was the coil connector on cyl 4. The clip was secured however the wire was not all the way in, just like you said! So that is fixed. I managed to fry the FRM module though (windows and lights do not work). My dealership asked for $1500 to replace and reprogram the module. You win some and you lose some! Anyhow, I am a big fan now, all subscribed and liked your video. Thank you!
Thank you, appreciate your feedback, on facelift 3 series even if you look at the battery wrong you will fry frm module, you probably disconnected the battery for repair as a safety concern. But if you ask any bmw technician we never disconnect battery for this job🤷♂️
@@Zeiten it's strange as I replaced the battery myself a few years ago and the FRM was fine. Will be careful next time and avoid unnecessary disconnects. Experience is what you get when you fail!
True, I remember on old range rovers (2003-2005) which were BMW’s basically, under the hood it stated that you must wait at least 2 mins do disconnect the battery. Facelift frm module are very fragile
id like the jumanji comment , it works
This gentleman is an an amazing communicator. Absolutely spot on with clear information and really helpful. Thank you so much.
Happy to help, thanks for your feedback🙌
I agree Elring gaskets are the way to go. I actually purchased a Elring Valve Cover for my N52 and paid a inch shy of 200$. Its been on the SAV for about 2 years and Ive yet to have an issue. Price doesnt always mean you have a quality part just as it doesnt mean you have junk. Ive also purchase the cheapos and out of the box, I knew they were not going to work. Super light and bolt patterns were slightly off. Your videos are beyond helpful. Thank you for your time.
Do you have the link to the website?
The best and most comprehensive video for this repair. I just finished my car and followed this video step by step. Thanks
Thanks! I just finished this job with your instructions. You’re a good teacher.
Glad to hear it, happy to help🙌
This video definitely helped with making more room for the valve cover replacement and removing the injector wiring (couldn't figure it out) I mean I was already replacing the starter and manifold gaskets, why not the valve cover w/gasket, essentric sensor and everything else while I'm there. Thanks for making this video.
I wish I would have read the caption notes and watched the beginning. I could have the valve cover etc fixed for free :(
Great video and supper helpful. Love this part the most: After recommending to disconnect the battery terminal...."if you don't know how to disconnect your battery terminal then don't attempt this job".....love it
I like the beater Mazda I got, took me 30 min to do the cover and spark plugs. Guy selling a nice 328i converter for cheap. Needs this done but it looks like an adventure.
Amazing detailed video. Big thanks! It helped me a lot!Looking forward for more diys!!
Thank you, happy to help🙌 there is a playlist on my channel with 23 diys on e90 chassis😉
I'll have to think carefully about changing the valve cover gasket on my bimmer myself in the near future given the multiple issues that could go wrong. Looks easy enough though but if I run into a problem I'm toast lol. Great video mate.
I was able to do mine ONLY cause of his detailed info! TY SIR!
Happy to help 👍
Very helpful! Thank you for the video!
Happy to help🙌
2:45 Thank you very much for mentioning about being covered under SULEV warranty.
Helping as much as i can🙌
Hello Zeitin
I'm grateful for your videos.
I'm in a really bad dire situation. Having watched your RUclips tutorials, I convinced my girlfriend that I could work on her car (E92 325i N52 motor with plastic VCG cover) and change the valve cover gasket like a seasoned technician (with a Ph.D. in mechanics).
I therefore replaced the valve cover gasket, the eccentric motor seal, and the cover's round sensor seal today. I took your advise and carefully removed the back pipe on the cover. In order to give enough clearance, I also removed the thin black hose that runs above the motor.
I checked to make sure the gasket and lid fit correctly. I torque every bolt to nine nm. I connected all of the electrical point.
As you mentioned, there will be smoke when I start the engine, and there was smoke. The engine idled smoothly at first, then became a little harsh for a blink of an eye, and then the idle was reset at about 500 rpm. The car went through the identical procedure and experience every three times I started it.
On the other hand, once I started the car for the fourth time, the Check Engine Light was on and it idled at roughly 100 rpm before going a blink second or two rough before idleing at 500 rpm.
The engine check light remains on.
Since it is Saturday night in Australia and my partner needs her car for work, I have until tomorrow to find a solution or I will die.
Do you have any clue why the check engine light is on and why the idle problems might be occurring? Please provide some assistance. I made it through COVID, but if this drama isn't resolved, I'm dead.
Ok, sounds like air leak to me, redo the job most times it is pinched seal even though you said you checked still that’s most likely the reason for your issues. Scanning the car would have helped to navigate of course
@@Zeiten Thank you for your speedy response. I looked and noticed some oil in the front of the VC. So I stripped the Valve Cover again, this time taking my time and repositioning the gasket with silicone dots as you suggested. I borrowed an extra set of hands and refitted everything very slowly. It took some time for me. Anyway, one concern I had was with the two torx screws that fit on the outside of the valvetronic motor. It appears that the left one is not properly tightened and may strip.
When I started the car (after going through the key in position 2, 30 seconds, x 2 to reset the valvetronic motor), it was rough and sounded horrible, and the check engine light was on. So I went to the valvetronic motor and slightly tightened the left Torx screw. Surprisingly, the check engine light quickly went out. After I tightened the Torx screw, I could hear the valvetronic motor grating. So I returned, removed the valvetronic motor, and reset everything in properly, and then when I started the car, it was quiet and sounded fine.
I spoke too quickly. When I returned to the engine area and attempted to lift the cable tray that normally sits above the engine, it went crazy again, making a truck-like noise. So I put the cabletray latched in on the overtray, . And then went for 500m drive, the engine light came on, and the car was slow, sounded like a truck and moving very erratically. . I'm at a lost now; it was working perfectly before this happened. What could possibly go wrong?
@@Zeiten Hello, and thank you for your prompt response. Unbelievable, so I switched the coil packs one by one. And each time, I started the engine to check. Only after I got to the fifth and sixth coils in the engine and turned them around did the idle return to normal, with no misfiring or rough idling and no check engine light on. So, I drove the car for approximately 4 kilometres, running the motor up to 4500 revs, and it appears to be good, no engine light on, and it appears to be idling well. I honestly hope it's fine (I'm deaf - literally - so it's difficult to judge the sound), but it is not scratchy and gruff like the previous day. By swapping over the coils, I hope this makes sense. Is this something that happens with these engines that causes issues like the one I had?
@tomg4793 i can guarantee that one of your coils wasn’t plugged in fully and it caused a misfire. Swapping coils doesn’t do anything but by doing so you just plugged everything as it supposed to be
@@Zeiten Thank you so much for all your advice, it really helps when you have dedicated, well experienced person, happy to share solutions and provide support. Thank you once again. And I must add that we in Australia really love your branding (the shirts that you wear with the Zeiten written across), looks really good.
Thanks it was the best information on the valve cover replacement
Thank you🙌
In one hour? This man is insane.
Usually hour and a half😁 practice makes perfect😉
Wow... Very detailed vid.. step by step.. thanks you.. I just subscribed.. thanks again
Happy to help, thank you for your support🙌
I learned. a lot from this video. Thank you so much for your video, hope get some more form you! ;-)
Wow! I hope i never have to do that...but i have the exact car 08 E93 version sulev.
Liked 👍 and Subscribed 🔔
And saved this video for future reference
THANK YOU!
Happy to help🙌
Hey.
Hats off for the very detailed videos!!!.
E90, N52, 328xi 2010 here.
My driver side AC is not blowing cold air. Seems the actuator is stuck. Can you do a video on it?
Seems there is no such one on RUclips now if I'm not mistaken. Thanks a bunch!
Hi and wishes a Happy New Year to you and your family. I was upset with the auto repair shop in Saint Charles IL. I brought my BMW 328i 2007 Sedan and they charged me $4828 and they just replaced the ECM ann Cass nodule. I took my car for a test drive but smoke is coming out underneath the engine. I brought back car since it is in the warranty but they were telling Ithey need to replace the gasket.
I was wondering if you could do a video for O2 sensors on whatever years go with it for a 2007 328i E92?
Great work
I Had this repair covered by the dealer in Massachusetts. So California law applies outside of CA as well. For reference, California standards are: Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Jersey, New Mexico (2011 model year and later), New York, Nevada, Oregon, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Virginia, Vermont, and Washington (2009 model year and later)
Correct
So even if my car is from a different state I still qualify for the warranty ?
As far as i know yes, contact any dealer they will tell you by your vin
Over the phone my dealer said it wasn’t covered but then said I’d need to bring in car and have them look at it.
Oooof Texas not listed
Hello Tim, thank you for sharing these helpful videos. I would like to ask you about error codes I am getting in E70 35i,2011. While driving I got fuel cap warning light and check engine, then after a while engine malfunction warning where the car went in reduced power. After checking with codes I got these errors 2E0F, 321C, 2C56,2C58. Are these errors related as last two are for the turbo pressure. Much appreciate for a help before going to a service check.
While the cover is off, Check the vanos sprocket bolts are still tight. They can come loose and sometimes the bolt heads get snapped off. There is a recall for them on some models in america. If they are loose, this is the time to replace them.
Thanks for a great video, going over the steps, and suggestions. How long did it take you to do it? Guessing that it will work on a N51 as well. Againg thanks a lot Z👍👍👍
This video is on n51 engine exactly, I usually do this job in about 1-2 hours but i do have about 10 years of experience fixing bimmers only😁
Thank you for your feedback, like subscribe share😉
I have another question for you. I watched your video a few more times and went through my repair to make sure I put everything back which I have. But - what fuse or relay would be affected if removing the two positive wires with the 13mm and 10mm nuts there was a problem. I don’t think I had an issue there but I might as well check that.
Hey great video. I’ve had to tackle this before when I worked for a shop but I was wondering what you charged because I’m going to do one at my house and don’t know what to charge.
Бімба!!! Дякую!!!
Thanks so much for the SULEV-specific instructions. I would definitely struggle with secondary air intake components otherwise. One question, shouldn't you also replace secondary air injection check valve gasket for this job?
I believe so because the elring gasket kit i bought from fcp euro came with a gasket and two self locking hex nuts for the secondary air injection check valve
Holy crap disconnecting that one hose took me like 30min 😅
Hey man I have a 2011 Bmw 328i and I got new plugs and 1 new coil pack and a new battery and ever since its been running pretty poor on and off and when it is running poor on the screen it says. "Malfunction in drive" Aswell as sometimes "DSC Malfunction" Pops up on the screen I was wondering if you had any idea what this could be?
What are your tools called the attachment the wiggles with the attachment yet still gets it out
First everything was it’s not rocket science east peasy it’s simple until time to put it back in it’s this job is real complex anyhow I felt like it was easier to put some gasket maker/sealant to hold gasket in place and not fall off in the back and have the same problem he did much easier it’s like glue good luck y’all
Hello, first of all I thank you very much for your videos, they are really good and useful. Last Wednesday I took my car in for scheduled maintenance at BMW Berkshire located in Pittsfield, MA. They changed the spark plugs and the oil. When the spark plugs were changed they found an oil leak in the valve cover gasket. They are charging me $1028 USD to change the gasket. It is a 2010 BMW 328i xdrive with 95k miles and the N51 SULEV engine. I would like to know if you can let me know how I can access the sullen guarantee that you mention in your video. Again, thank you very much.
Call bmw of North America, this warranty applies only to certain states as far as i know
great job. i’m surprised eccentric sensor want replace while you’re at it
Why replace something that is working just fine?🤷♂️ eccentric shaft sensor is NOT that common failure as people think
Good 👍 job
19.52 on going talking about disconnecting the battery 😂😂 best line in this video I appreciate the honesty y’all Listen to this man makes it look easy!
Hey how s it going. . so theres 2 tubes on the inside of the cover that are between the plug tubes that have plastic caps on the ends and mine came off . what could i use to keep those on ? Thanks in advance
37:03 “a simple leverage point“
I am having the hardest time getting my valve cover off and I have no idea why, I have taken all 19 of the outer bolts the 3 10mm inner center bolts off and I still can’t get this thing out. I don’t know what I’m doing wrong , finally guess is that they glued it in.
Update: finally got it off, had to smack it with a rubber mallet all over to shake it loose.
Love the video. Will this be accurate as well for 328I 2007??
Thank you, yes it is exactly the same
Help please, i want know what this is referring to on my E 90 LGSO2FT1 0.0(%) And LGSO2FT2 0.0(%) i also have random misfires, but i am going to replace the valve cover gasket but i want to solve this readings first thank you very much.
Thanks!
🙌
So I replaced mine and now the car wont start. I was told the tiptronic needs reprogrammed everytime. Is that true?
Absolute bs, is it cranking?
My valve cover is stuck on pretty tight. Any tips?
So after I finished I drove around for a bit and something blew that has to do with radiator and coolant and splattered. White smoke was coming out of my car from the hood. Or it was steam or something. I also had a 10 mm bolt extra… if anybody might know what the coloration might be that’d be helpful
Siempre he tenido muy malas experiencias con mecánicos la mayoría no trabajan con el cuidado suficiente para hacer un trabajo exelente. Razon por la cual me gusta cambiar cualquier cosa a mi auto. En este caso este caballero no solo hace un exelente trabajo sino que te enseña perfectamente como se hace gracias gracias 👍
“if you don’t know how to disconnect the battery don’t even attempt this job”😂😂
Hi I have a 2007 328i 3.0l i6 is this car a n52 or n53 I can't figure it out it's a 4 door sedan manufactured in Germany
Iam currently struggling to take the valve cover I done took off every bolt
My valve cover didnt want to come out then the two piece inside the valve cover that hangthe lowest both broke off....
Pay this man
My BMW need valve covers. But it also shakes after I start it and let it run, I have to press the gas petal half way down for it to start accelerating, and even more, I also have to change the oil so I have some work. Anyone got an estimate of how much I'm about to spend on just parts
Halfway through the job. Got the cover off and my friend was removing the sensor O ring gasket on the valve cover and broke a piece of plastic from Valve cover. I just got a new valve cover but didn’t hear the part where your said to avoid cheap covers. I’m not sure if I should try installing it now, I’m going to try to put it on tomorrow. He suggested before I bought the new valve cover to just silicone the plastic back on. Should I do that or try fitting the cheap new cover?
Don’t want to keep the car sitting more weeks especially since I have it taken apart. Any suggestions
Cheap valve cover won’t work for long it doesn’t fit right, hard to break valve cover during removal anywhere especially around eccentric shaft sensor, get proper valve cover elring will do or uro parts at least
@@Zeiten I appreciate the quick response. Wish I watched the full video before buying the cheap one. I guess Ill try finding a URO one at least
What wobble extensions or sockets are you using? Can you describe them a bit and maybe where to get them? Also, can you specify the name of the Elring silicone that you used? Thanks for that awesome video Tim!.
I figured out those questions. I got a wobble extension set from harbor freight which worked great! and I got the permatex grey from Autozone.
@@tjslbfyt98 Thanks for following up man!!!
Have you come across stripped valve cover screw(s)? What is/was your approach? I am preparing for unexpected? Thanks planning to work in the car soon
On this one very rare occasion, usually stripped bolts on valve covers have no tension so it’s easy to remove but I doubt you’ll have an issue like that
I'm planning on doing this job on my E90 this week. The valve cover gasket I ordered and received is a molded rubber on steel core, because I didn't know any better. The rubber is so thin I don't know how it could possibly make a good lasting seal. What are your thoughts on molded rubber steel gaskets? Are they junk? It seems like junk compared to the thick all-rubber one you use in the video.
Thanks for all of your great advice!
Never heard of those seals actually, you sure you got the right one? I’d stick to elring😉
@@Zeiten I ordered from Rock Auto, AJUSA 56036500, for a 2006 330 XI.
I think I got the right one, but yeah it does not seem "good". I'll take your advice. Thanks!
Oh, 330i has full metal red gasket there is no rubber there it’s different from the car in this video
But in my experience ajusa are not good quality product
@@Zeiten Ah! I assumed they were all about the same with E90 series. Thank you ❤️
Is it possible to release the pcv hose when the cover is loose?
Sure, same process pretty much
Hey man so I've followed all the steps. But my valvetronic motor wont budge/pop out at all. I've even tried doing it the other way everyone else says. It wouldn't be seized to the valve cover for being cold or anything would it.
Nevermind. I got it. I think someone liquid gasket'd this damn thing into place at some point. That was quite the adventure. Great video btw man, as you already may know.
Hi man thanks for the video. I just did mine but have an problem now. When I first started it it was ok but after few minutes I raved it a little and I heard a scary noise due to a big depression in the valve cover, I don’t understand, I never see that before. Any idea?
Air leak most likely, check if the gasket sitting properly usually back area is problematic
I did and it’s good but why there is this depression up there? I used to have little pressure in the valve cover
Hard to say remotely, describe the noise, any codes?
@@Zeiten it whistles and run like I miss a cylinder but if I keep it accelerated a little bit it run 6cylinders but when I release the throttle it run bad again or even stop
No codes
Following the how to - step by step. Came across to 2 stripped screws or block. What size of heli-coil does the 2011 328i (n51) I need to use or something else? Thanks to for the feedback
Send me email with pics, with no tension those should be easy to take out, i usually use a couple pick tools and rotate it counterclockwise🤷♂️
@@Zeiten Greetings
Grateful for your help, sppt, and patience.
It seems that the bolts (4-6) from left to right weren't tight enough. According to carfax, the gasket was replaced in 2019 by a bmw dealer. I inserted the bolt and tight it the end but didn't add any torque to it since it didn't yield while tighten. I would like to know a workaround if possible.
Pulling the cover I busted the coolant line. Any video replacing it. It seems simple 🤔🙃
Applying the proper torque to back passenger bolts seems to a task
Thanks
v/r
Félix
ps: can't add pics via this link or post it in utube
Sent pic via email. I have one bolt that doesn't want to go straight into the hole (back top right facing the engine) . It goes ~75% then it's hard to screw in. Thanks again. I'm still going step by step.
Hard to say what’s going on, forcing bolts usually doesn’t end well
The plastic part of my cover fell off would it be a good idea to glue it back ? It’s on the inside
No, just leave it off you won’t see any difference, way better than relying on a chance it won’t fall off which it 100% will and will be bouncing around potentially damaging something
I had a leaking valve cover gasket and went to the dealer for a recall repair on another part and they did not tell me my vehicle was still under warranty for this being an SULEV with being 13 years old and only 90,000 mi. They quoted me $1,300 for the repair. I just spent the last week and money doing this and found out that it is under warranty. Those jerks at the dealership didn't tell me. On top of that, this is the fourth VCG I have replaced across 3 vehicles, and I'm now leaking oil from the edge of the block, everything is torqued properly 😭
Dealers are liars, not all of them but i’ve had plenty of complaints from people when i send them to dealer for free repair that dealer doesn’t want to do it, sometimes i had to go there and explain to them that they are obligated by law, that works all the time😁
One thing not mentioned... That broken piece of trim that he says might of been broken to help get to one of the rear valve cover bolts... Is broken to make it easier to fit the PCV valve past... If urs isn't broken, trust me, cut it or break it... It will make this job WAAAY easier
i need to know which clip to break i’m ready to scream after trying to set the cover back in
Once again z-man great job, quick question my 08 328xi , I just got this code cf17, there's not a lot of in detailed information on this code , any thoughts
Communication with transfer case, seen plenty of those and they do nothing pretty much, might need a software update
@@Zeiten I kind of figured that, the transmission was shifting a little crazy , took it last year to the dealership they gave me a software update I might need another one for that but I appreciate it bro keep up the good work still waiting on them t-shirts 😁👍👍👍
I'm going to do this when I do my OFHG again. Are the bolts just hand tightened then since spec is so low or does it really need to be precise?
Of course not, hand tight first then torqued
@@Zeiten That's what I thought but I didn't see you torque them to spec. I skimmed through pretty fast though just to get a refresher before I bought the seal kit so I may have missed it.
@Zeiten
I recently did this job but I couldn’t hear my torque wrench click cause of it being such a low torque. I feel like I tightened them enough, should I be good? Also I got a service engine soon light after. Car started ran for a bit then had some misfires and hesitations. Got a lot of codes running lean and just random codes. After letting it just run, it no longer runs like that and I cleared the codes. The car battery was also disconnected for awhile say maybe that was why.
Impossible to tell but if there are no more issues or codes you are all good, glitches and readjustments happen it’s fine
@@Zeiten thank you for the fast reply! Started it up again and drove a little in my driveway (waiting for paperwork to arrive so I can get it insured) and it did good on the driveway. Might have a vacuum leak tho kinda sounds like it just gotta find it. Then onto Oil filter housing gasket!
The most common air leak after valve cover gasket replacement is valve cover gasket😁 double check everything slightly pinched gasket will create massive air leak
@@Zeiten yes thank you I don’t think it is pinched because no oil is leaking out thankfully. Hard to see if back corner is pinched but I could mostly feel with my finger
Planning this DIY but scared of dash lights popping up once I am done. Also, if I have low battery, removing a sensor just drains the battery, do you suggest disconnecting the battery?
Well, if it’s lci model keep the battery plugged if you can manage to be careful if not disconnect negative terminal but wait for quite some time, there are risks of frying frm module
What's the best option here. What could be affected by disconnecting the battery. I'm aware that it's not safe to boost or charge with in these cars.will it throw codes. New to this platform.
Fried frm module is most common issue applies to LCI models
I know this is an older video, but did the SULEV motors have the VANOS bolt recall like the N52? I noticed the timing sprockets are different.
After 2009-2010 yes, earlier models didn’t have that issue
@@Zeiten thank you! just picked up an SULEV and the previous owner was convinced that the sprockets needed to be changed because of the issue. I opened the valve cover up and was thinking to myself, where are the bolts?
Hello, I've heard several different fluid change intervals for ZF 8-speed transmission fluid change . Can anyone confirm if its every 50k, 60k, 100k, 7 years please? Great channel, more videos please. Thank you!!
Depends on climate where you live, on 8-speed zf i’d say 50-60k miles is optimal, good transmission overall
You need to come to Canada bro need your assistance, shops i went to doesn't want to do the vcg, one shop used rtv to patch my leak instead of replacing the gasket lol..
Oh my🤦♂️ well that’s why this video exists so you can do it yourself properly 😉
@@Zeiten I know haha never took my car back to that shop, I could do other jobs and follow your vids but this job i dont have enough faith in myself tackle alone haha 😸. I found a local shop someone recommended that works on these cars the shop quoted $570 im taking it in the spring time since not leaking bad atm haha
Hey, one thing not clear. Are the spark plugs removed for this job or are they left in place? It is 2023, I am doing the research on how to fix the leaking valve cover on our 2009 328i xDrive. Your videos are helpful to build confidence towards getting it done. I am a decent mechanic, but this is our first BMW on the driveway. I understand ours to be a N52 engine.
There is also a leak from the oil filter housing where that bolts to the block. I plan to do that one at the same time as the valve cover. Do you have a video for filter housing gasket?
Thank!
No need to remove spark plugs at all, only the metal sleeves (spark plug tubes). Here is the video for oil filter housing gasket
ruclips.net/video/5w24mq2rj-k/видео.html
and also valve cover gasket replacement video on N52 ruclips.net/video/1lu6YJ_io6E/видео.html
Excellent. 👍 Thank you.
I have the same car in California. Is it covered under the warranty if it’s less than 150k miles?
@SuperPyco also must be less than 15 years old
@@Zeiten thank you for your response. It’s a 2009 model.
Unable to push plug tubes past the tabs. Any tricks for getting them in?
Slightly tap it using flathead screwdriver and one of the grooves on the tubes
Thanks I'll try
New genuine valve cover kit for this is about $550+
Hot dizzam you good
How much would you charge for this service?
Hello Tim. Thank you for sharing video. I have 2008 BMW 328i I replaced valve cover gasket by watched your video while I was remove the valve flextronic actuator slowly but I still heard the gear spinning inside I still re installed as normal but I haven’t start the car yet? Do you have any procedure to initialize before I cranking vehicle or just key on first and then start it? Do you have to use scanner to initialize? What’s should I do now? Thank you
Hi, you don’t have to do anything, just start the car
One more question ? My radiator is blown and milk shake inside the transmission cooler , heater core,and water pump. What’s the best way to flush it out if I do at home😂?
Thank you so much
That’s bad news, most likely a hole inside transmission cooler, you’ll have replace that, drain and refill transmission fluid DO NOT FLUSH IT, replace radiator if it’s damaged if not remove and flush it, you can run bleeding procedure with exit point somewhere just make sure to hook up the car to a charger
Thank so much with your information
Pardon!
You said there is a hole in transmission ‘s cooler. Do I have to replace the transmission cooler or just drain and refill transmission fluid only?
Excellent work and video. Would you be interested in repairing mine? How much do charge for this repair?
Sure as long as you are in LA, type zeiten bmw on google and give me a call we’ll talk
Mine has a secondary air valve I’m confused
Did you disconnect the battery when you replaced the valve cover gasket?
No
Hey man was thinking of switching out my valve cover and gaskets all together with an aftermarket aluminum one but i am planning to use as many oem components as possible. What is a good method for getting the metal sleeves out of the old plastic valve cover and onto a new one? i would like to re use my oem bolts and sleeves also thank you for the video will be using it when the time comes
Stay away from aluminum valve cover, it doesn’t fit right as well as all the other components that go into valve cover, n52 valve cover almost never crack or warp (at least in California) if you want new valve cover get elring
@@Zeiten i never had an issue in California but I recently moved to arizona and I believe my leak has gotten worse here i seen the ecs tuning website had an aluminum valve cover kit with gaskets and bolts around 316$ looks pretty legit just wanted an expert’s opinion thank you ill take it into consideration
Valve cover gasket leak never gets better over time it only gets worse. Arizona has higher temperatures but still no big difference since engine oil temperature during operation is about 230 degrees F
@@Zeitenokay last question bro what if i were to use just the aluminum valve cover but with all elring gaskets and seals and do this job exactly as you did in the video also should i buy an extra breather hose and secondary air pump hose just in case i break them?
Well don’t break stuff😂 aluminum valve cover is garbage no matter what kind of seals you use
You literally saved me 3000 dollars. Do you have one for the oil filter housing?
Sure, here it is DIY E90 BMW 328i Oil filter Housing gasket (OFHG)
ruclips.net/video/5w24mq2rj-k/видео.html
Definitely disconnect the battery BEFORE spraying carb cleaner all in your electrical connectors. If you don’t, then keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Such a load of bs🤦♂️
Yeah , dealer in NYC would not honor this sulev service under warranty. I called bmw corp and they were no help. I had to unfortunately go with an independent shop.
“they will not fall off”.- shows his inexperience…
🤡
What happens to the spark plugs tubes
Remove and reinstall
I changed my whole valve cover gasket and the engine it is smoking even more, what do you think it is going on?
Either pinched the gasket most likely in the back or that rare occasion when valve cover itself is cracked
I'd recommend replacing the entire cover if the car is over 10years old, or over 100k miles. Being made of plastic, going with a brand new cover may be the best option to limit future repairs that may need to be done.
The cover has an integrated PCV valve, on many of these cars. So if car is old definitely replace the whole cover. You dont want to do this job again.
My car cranked and not stating so I changed my crankshaft sensor now it doesn't cranks or starts what did I do wrong?
Did you even find out? I just did everything you did and but after I did my crankshaft sensor it still cranks
I just watched your video and changed my valve cover for a 2011 BMW 328i drive. Everything went smoothly and I didn’t run into any problems. I put everything back together and tried starting the car and it won’t. It turns over and sounds like it wants to but it won’t. My Foxwell did give a valvetronic error. I took engine cover off and made sure it was hooked up properly and everything seems good. Do you have any ideas where I should start?
Remove valvetronic motor and install it again, there should be tension when you put it back, you probably missed eccentric shaft gear
@@Zeiten I pulled it off again and reinstalled. I can feel tension when I install it. I hold it firmly while putting in the screws and it doesn’t pop out on me. I read a few other posts where people are saying that I need to screw the Allen screw once it’s installed??? Is that true? Also, they are saying it needs to be reset by turning ignition to the 2nd position and push the gas pedal down 10 times in 15 seconds??? What are your thoughts.
By turning allen screw you’ll move gear on eccentric shaft it’s done automatically when you start the car, gas pedal trick sounds like bs, you either have unrelated issue or coincidentally valvetronic motor decided to die🤷♂️ without in person inspection that’s the best i can do with provided data
Ok. Thanks. I tested the valvetronic motor just to make sure it didn’t die on me and it works and it works fine. I will take off and replace again.
@@marclusby4041 did you find out whats the issue was im curious dude
What type of silicone do you use?
Elring grey, permatex grey sometimes doesn’t really matter that much
what happened to the metal sleeves that where in the plug holes?
They go back where they were
@@Zeiten I saw that in your other video after I asked the question.. thanks
Hey bro i just got done rn with my valve cover everything is all good bro but not my windows doesn’t roll down and my mirrors always don’t fold back out please help respond asap bro I really would appreciate it my car is running perfectly fine I can’t seem to find the reason for this
If you disconnected the battery there is a chance you fried your frm module if its facelifted e90 (after 2009)
@@Zeiten and i also disconnected the battery while doing this job as well i did a little bit of research just now is the ecu pro a good alternative option?
Could a valve cover leak cause my tension belt to keep slipping I've replaced my tensioner /idler pulley and belt torque it down 25 pounds and 90 degrees so I know that can't be the issue but soon as my car gets to running for a while my belt will start slipping and my car starts squeeking really bad?
No, oil filter housing gasket leak can do lots of damage to the belt
@@Zeiten thanks bro going to have to look into that 🤞 someone told me it could be my ac compressor mines is bad but I don't see how that could cause my belt to constantly squeal
Well it might be not the belt at all, vanos solenoids can fo that sounds like belt but it’s not, then crankcase pressure can also be the reason also sounds like belt
@@Zeiten will replacing my valve cover fix my crankcase problem? Reason I'm asking cause i do have a leak from my valve cover i prob could just change the gasket but ik some cars have the crankcase in the valve cover so if I could kill two birds with one stone the leak and the squeal that would be perfect
@@Zeiten also thanks for the replies bro its much appreciated I think you just saved me a bunch of money 😂🤞🤞