This young man is the best and most patient BMW Mechanic on this App. I’ve looked at a lot and this is the best. Most people are too impatient to mention the painful nuances associated with performing repairs on this model engine.
Thank you for your kind words, my goal is to share all the knowledge I have gained from working on these cars and I hope to educate for many more years. 👍🏼
If everyone made mechanical tutorial videos good as this one, there would be a lot of auto repair shops going out of business. This is one of the best repair videos I've seen, and I've seen a lot! I have to do this job on an E90 with an air leak & throwing an ESP sensor code. Still not looking forward to doing this since I tend to break plastic bits...
Sir I was an auto mechanic 50 years ago for for 20 years then moved on to machinery. Your video helped me through one of the most pain in the butt procedures after watching your way of doing it and calm teaching ( letting us know your trade secrets lol) I finished this in 1 day thank you so much . I never looked to see if you had a channel but you now have a faithful subscriber. 👍🏻your a true tradesman ( by the way I am now in my 60s gave part of my Pinky to the trade lmao 🤷♂️. That’s life . Thank you again . Brian
I am amazed how much work you had to do to replace the valve cover gasket. I have had a recall on my E90 for Vanos bolt replacement. Now I appreciate the amount of work that has to be done by you BMW Technicians. Your lecture on this topic was outstanding well done.👌👍
Thank you I appreciate it. The recall just got green lit for most E90s and we can perform the recall now. If you had this done recently hopefully the tech found the vanos bolts broken. This would include removing the oil pan to fetch the broken bolts. I say hopefully they were broken because then that means you got a new valve cover gasket, new Vanos gears and a new Oil pan gasket. 👍🏼
@@friendlymechanic9778 The E90 323i has a new valve cover included with the recall. Bolts were still intact but changed out.Thanks once again for your video.👍
Excellent instructional video! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to put together such an excellent, clearly-narrated video. In less than 3 hours, I had the valve cover gasket removed from our 2011 328i, using this video each step of the way.
This is a great video that shows how to remove/replace the valve cover. One big miss was a warning about disconnecting the battery and closing the trunk lid on later models that don't have any other way to open the trunk! This one cost me a couple of hours researching on the internet and then using solution of finding the right wire under the glove box and "jumping" power to it to actuate the trunk opening circuit. Worked but man I could have saved a lot of time had I known to not let the trunk close.
@@nOx1D3next time go to your right rear plate light and there’s a small etching where to you put your flat head move it to the right the light should pop out after that you should find the trunk cable wire it had a big black spindly rubber on it pull the metal wire with the tab at the and and tada it’s open, thank me later when you have no access to battery and your key fob doesn’t work
This is so perfectly explained! Definitely need a guide like this for taking out the intake manifold properly! But all together! These videos are so helpful!
This is the best video walkthrough I’ve ever seen! My son bought a 2011 328i from a used “hack” car dealer, a few months after, he noticed that it went into limp mode, after driving it in manual mode in order to get up to freeway speeds, the motor just plain stopped working. I changed the cam position sensors and all, but it still just turns over almost like it’s free spinning. My “mechanic “ said it has no compression, he did a test by ear…🤦🏽♂️ I decided to take a go at it myself and discovered a common problem with these motors, the vanos gears? I’m not sure if that’s the correct spelling. I saw that the aluminum bolts tend to break or back out causing the cams not to spin… is this something you have heard of???
Yea this is a common thing. BMW has a service recall for it, I wouldn’t be able to know for sure without a vin look up though to check if your vehicle qualifies. If you would like to DM me your VIN on instagram I would be happy to look at it and check for you.
@@friendlymechanic9778 Good evening, I got the information about the recalls, there are actually two different unresolved recalls on this car, one of which is the Vanos.. I emailed BMW of North America with the information, hopefully they will resolve this. 🤙🏾
Thank you for the very useful video? What is the torque down sequence at 36:38? We start with outer bolts or we start with center bolts? Can you please clarify?
Thank you for taking the time and making this Great video, very thorough comparing to other mechanics. I’m working on my 128i, it’s a bit easier not having the SULEV system in the way.
Best video on this job on RUclips!!! Just wondering where on the oil pan are you jacking to lift the engine? Are you attempting to raise the front of the engine or the back or the entire engine up just a little? Thank you!
Awesome video! Did you happen to include the torque values for the bolts on the strut towers and the one by the windshield and the torque for the valve cover bolts themselves?
What a great in depth video. I have this job upcoming shortly for my first time. Most important to me was you showing close ups of the various clip releases as most other videos I've watched gloss over that aspect. Subscribed and liked. Good luck with your channel. Doesn't the valvetronic motor need to relearn with a key sequence before starting? 2010 E91 with N52.
Thank you for your support! The valvetronic will do a sweep when you cycle the key back on to ignition. You don’t have to worry about doing this procedure because it will happen automatically.
@@friendlymechanic9778 Belated thanks, the job was successful. The hardest for me was the PCV hose connection in the back. Now I'm waiting for my Vanos recall number to come up so somebody else can do it all over again. I do have the Vanos bolts in from FCP and another new gasket just in case.
Thanks for the video man. For the valvetronic motor does it require any recalibration method with the way you removed and installed it back on? That’s the only thing I’m still confused on since other videos talk about a recalibration process.
The valvetronic will do a sweep when you cycle the key back on to ignition. You don't have to worry about doing this procedure because it will happen automatically.
Just in time for my upcoming DIY on this! Thank you! Will you also be doing the oil filter housing gasket? I'd love to follow your guide for the necessary tools for the job and some tips on how to properly tackle it, because I see many people online taking out the intake manifold to reach the top bolt, even draining the oil and coolant completely, and some even suggest replacing the serpentine belt while at it, but other people don't do any of these things and make it look very easy. Mine is due for an oil service though, so I'll be draining the oil completely before changing the gasket. Thanks again!
Oh nice perfect timing. I will do an oil filter housing gasket as soon as I get one to do. I don’t remove the intake manifold when I do that repair because I use a snap on 1/4” swivel E10. Without this socket you will need to remove the intake manifold. As far as draining oil and coolant completely, it’s a good idea so you don’t make a huge mess everywhere. But if you can catch all escaping fluids and then wash it down and catch all the water you used to clean the engine then you don’t need to drain oil and coolant. One way is quicker and messy The other is long and cleaner. As far as replacing the serpentine belt, I would only replace the belt if it’s cracking. But when doing this job you will need to protect it from getting oil soaked. As soon as I can I’ll get a video up on the oil filter housing gasket repair.
Removing the valve cover itself basically requires magic, boy that was frustrating. Was smooth sailing besides that, couple different little things as I have the early magnesium vc and no secondary air hose/port.
saved subbed and oustanding overall work through of the replacement. I am being given a 328i 2010 and was looking at preventive mantience and overall health of the car. Is this something you see as more preventive proactive work or something as a wait and see type job. Meaning I am going to go over replacing whatever I can but don't want to just throw the parts canon at it. Routine stuff IE spark plugs, oil changes and ect. Thanks again and love the work
Awesome video! Did you happen to include the torque values on the bolts for the strut towers and the one by the windshield and the torque the valve cover bolts?
The good for if you are replacing the gasket, I’ve replaced the cover and gaskets. I ordered my valve cover kit from FCPEuro, over all great kit, comes with everything you need to get the job done. I did run into an issue when reassembling: the valvetronic motor did not want it aligned for me to liven up the bolts, I had to slightly bore out the holes on the V motor brackets to get it to align with valve covers pre assembled brackets, I think, this has something to do with the aftermarket valve cover molds, I’d say they are a tiny bit off. Other than that, after reassembly I’ve ran into bad misfiring issues, end up replacing all 6 ignition coils, misfiring went away. At the moment I’m dealing with several codes: for throttle valve potentiometer 1 and 2 and low voltage to throttle switch Here are the codes: 2cF9, 2cFa, 2D1D, 2D09 Any input would be greatly appreciated.
@@friendlymechanic9778 Hey, you have probably saved a lot of people from making a costly mistake. Also I am getting ready to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2006 BMW 325i. Do I have to buy the part from the dealer or can I buy it third party?
Yeah when I started this channel that was one of the main reasons. To help people avoid costly mistakes that I have made or have seen people make. You don’t need to get it from the dealer. Third party is okay.
Wow! Amazing video!!.......Found an oil spot on my garage floor and still trying to figure where the leak is coming from. Looking at some other Oil Leak videos, it could be Valve Cover gasket, Crank shaft seal, various O rings from solenoid, Oil filter housing gasket.......any tips on helping me locate the leak would be greatly appreciated..........if it is the valve cover gasket you have inspired me to try to do it myself! Thanks so much!! Also if you don't mind me asking.....what is the typical charge at a dealership to have a valve gasket put on a 328i?......... Subscribed!!
Thank you for the support! 👍🏼 On these engines the three main oil leaks are the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and oil filter housing gasket. Valve cover gasket usually causes a burning oil smell because it lands on the exhaust manifold. The oil pan gasket you usually see oil leaking on the passenger side of the engine or where the engine and transmission meet. Oil filter housing is usually the front of the engine or oil running down the driver side of the engine. If you have an N51 SULEV engine the valve cover gasket is covered for 15 years or 150,000 miles. Where I work we charge on the higher end of the $1200-$1800 price range.
Hello, THis is very useful video. Thanks for sharing. I tried to fix my valve cover gasket but while putting the cover back on, I over tightened the middle 10mm self-locking bolt and it broke in the middle. Do I need to take it out? if yes, how? also, if I do not take it out does it leak or will start start? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Hello. Thank you very much for your video. Some advice that is preferable to replace the whole plastic valve cover, not just the gaskets? what are your thoughts about this? I have a leak on a Z4 E89 with a N52B25 engine with 160k kilometers. Should I just replace the gaskets if the valve cover is visually ok?
Correct! Found the same with experience. The only mitigation is a lot of caulking on both sides of the cover via Permatex. Otherwise, a new cover, bolts and gaskets are only about 90 bucks. Every 5 years or so.
Hey man thanks for the video. I had no idea where to put that negative terminal that's seen at 10:17 of the video. Did you reattach it to the same place or to the bolt next to it? different tutorials have it at different places.
I’ve seen it attached in both places. But it should be on the left side. But it honestly doesn’t matter which spot you put it. They are both good grounds.
Hello , dusty dirty situation with this engine. I admire your skills and you always do great work, Have another question, I was told I just can't put any battery in my X1, that I have to go to BMW and they have to register the battery to the car with something? Is that true and is it something I can learn to do. Ty as always
You do need a certain battery, but it doesn’t have to be BMW. you just need to get the same ratings. Match the CCA and AH(amp hours). It does need to be registered but you need a fancy scan tool or the OEM BMW one.
I purchased a bluetooth adapter (OBDLink CX) along with Bimmercode and Bimmerlink to register and put in the exact specifications of the battery. The adapter is $80, bimmercode and bimmer link are $40 each. You use bimmercode first to put the specifications of the battery (the amount of Ah and if it is AGM or not). Then you go over to bimmerlink where you register the battery.
Hey. Getting ready to tackle this job on the weekend. Unless I missed it I didn’t notice when you reconnected that “brittle” vent line near the back of the engine. Was that done after torquing or when’s a good time to reconnect that hose?
I Made that mistake once. I put the valve cover back on and I decided to reattach the hose first, only to realize that there’s bolts underneath it. And of course it broke upon being removed a second time
@@friendlymechanic9778 sorry man just frustrated haha mine was stuck so I figured I did it wrong ended up just fighting it till she was off thanks for the video sorry for the comment
@@friendlymechanic9778 how can i fix squeak noise from one of my rear suspension? Look like it’s a bushing. Many Random mechanic are saying they will fix it for 250-300$
That may be difficult to advise on. I would need to hear the squeak or see which one they are talking about. You can send me photos to look at on instagram if you like.
If it won’t wiggle off check if there is silicone around the gasket. If there is your gonna have a hard fight getting it off. It won’t be nice and it’s not gonna be gentle. There will be a risk of cracking the valve cover as well. If you get it off successfully remove all the silicone and don’t use silicone to reinstall. If there is no silicone just keep wiggling back and forth and you can un screw the 4mm slightly to help push off from the valve tronic gear. But don’t keep unscrewing. You will need to screw back in to bottom out the valve tronic and start again.
@@friendlymechanic9778so I got everything swapped out and I put the valvtronic motor in just like you showed. After it’s screwed in with the 3 screws to I need to do anything with the Allen key turning it left or right?
It’s best to have it in. But which spacer is it? If there are no air leaks and no oil leaks you should be okay though. The spacer is so you don’t tighten down the bolt too much, it can strip or break off completely. Was the bolt torqued down correctly?
I determine if the valve cover needs to be replaced on a case by case basis. Things to consider are the age of the vehicle, miles, what other faults does the car have? Generally I re-use the valve covers on the E90 N51 and N52 engines because they are proven to not crack as easily as other BMW engines, but it really depends on the condition of the car.
@@malebogolevymafolo746 the diaphragm on the valve cover is broken i had the same problem you will have to replace the valve cover because that diaphragm is not replaceable by itself its integral to the valve cover
This is a common issue with the E90 valve covers. Unfortunately the only reliable repair is to replace the complete valve cover. What happens is the crankcase pressures are out of spec. I use a manometer to verify the issue, but it is not necessary. You can do a simple test. While the engine is running and whistling remove the engine oil fill cap slowly. If you feel resistance and hear air being sucked in and at the same time the whistle goes away. The crankcase pressures are out of spec and I would start with replacing the valve cover. In some rare cases after replacing the valve cover the whistle noise can return. Only this time the most likely cause is the front main seal. And in even more extreme cases the whistle noise can return for the rear main seal. The chances of this happening are extremely slim and the valve cover fixes the issue 99% of the time. Hope this helps 👍🏼
100% correct, the cover must be replaced as the plastic material warps slightly on with age and you’ll never seal it. Dealers will usually recommend a new valve cover for this reason
Plastic valve covers can warp and crack but it is less common on the E90’s very few cases have I seen when the cover cracks on the N51 N52 engines. Gasket replacement is an acceptable repair as they do seal back up nicely. If you are talking about the F30 with the N20 N26 plastic valve covers those I have seen crack more often and would always recommend a complete valve cover replacement with higher mileage. The valve cover cracks mainly due to improper torque sequence when removing and installing. The N51/52 engine torque sequence is very forgiving. The N20/26 cover is not. There are 20 bolts that must be released and tightened down in a specific order.
I absolutely agree with you. If you have a different set of circumstances such as your case where the valve cover won’t seal I would recommend replacing the valve cover completely. But for the majority of the E90’s I have serviced replacing the complete valve cover was not necessary. I know this because I have only seen a very small percentage actually develop a leak soon after replacement. Depending on where you live MSRP on a new valve cover is $600-$800 USD. Compared to a new set of gaskets at maximum $100.00 USD. This isn’t a cheap part to recommend on a very small fail rate, but sometimes it does need to be replaced.
![Mariah Carey - We Belong Together [American Music Awards 50th Anniversary Special]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UnO2m2BEXDU/mqdefault.jpg)
![Mariah Carey - We Belong Together [American Music Awards 50th Anniversary Special]](/img/tr.png)
![KSI - Thick Of It (feat. Trippie Redd) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/At8v_Yc044Y/mqdefault.jpg)
This young man is the best and most patient BMW Mechanic on this App. I’ve looked at a lot and this is the best. Most people are too impatient to mention the painful nuances associated with performing repairs on this model engine.
Thank you for your kind words, my goal is to share all the knowledge I have gained from working on these cars and I hope to educate for many more years. 👍🏼
If everyone made mechanical tutorial videos good as this one, there would be a lot of auto repair shops going out of business. This is one of the best repair videos I've seen, and I've seen a lot! I have to do this job on an E90 with an air leak & throwing an ESP sensor code. Still not looking forward to doing this since I tend to break plastic bits...
Sir I was an auto mechanic 50 years ago for for 20 years then moved on to machinery. Your video helped me through one of the most pain in the butt procedures after watching your way of doing it and calm teaching ( letting us know your trade secrets lol) I finished this in 1 day thank you so much . I never looked to see if you had a channel but you now have a faithful subscriber. 👍🏻your a true tradesman ( by the way I am now in my 60s gave part of my
Pinky to the trade lmao 🤷♂️. That’s life . Thank you again . Brian
I am amazed how much work you had to do to replace the valve cover gasket. I have had a recall on my E90 for Vanos bolt replacement. Now I appreciate the amount of work that has to be done by you BMW Technicians. Your lecture on this topic was outstanding well done.👌👍
Thank you I appreciate it. The recall just got green lit for most E90s and we can perform the recall now. If you had this done recently hopefully the tech found the vanos bolts broken. This would include removing the oil pan to fetch the broken bolts. I say hopefully they were broken because then that means you got a new valve cover gasket, new Vanos gears and a new Oil pan gasket. 👍🏼
@@friendlymechanic9778 The E90 323i has a new valve cover included with the recall. Bolts were still intact but changed out.Thanks once again for your video.👍
One of the best and the most practical tutorials. Thank you. I hope you will keep it going.
Excellent instructional video! I can't thank you enough for taking the time to put together such an excellent, clearly-narrated video. In less than 3 hours, I had the valve cover gasket removed from our 2011 328i, using this video each step of the way.
That’s great! I’m glad everything worked out for you!
Very nice video. Love how calm he is . Great work mate.
This is a great video that shows how to remove/replace the valve cover. One big miss was a warning about disconnecting the battery and closing the trunk lid on later models that don't have any other way to open the trunk! This one cost me a couple of hours researching on the internet and then using solution of finding the right wire under the glove box and "jumping" power to it to actuate the trunk opening circuit. Worked but man I could have saved a lot of time had I known to not let the trunk close.
Oh boy , this happened to me as well, had to bring an other battery and plug it in the front , so i can open the trunk
@@nOx1D3next time go to your right rear plate light and there’s a small etching where to you put your flat head move it to the right the light should pop out after that you should find the trunk cable wire it had a big black spindly rubber on it pull the metal wire with the tab at the and and tada it’s open, thank me later when you have no access to battery and your key fob doesn’t work
This a best 👌 video on RUclips really explains everything step by step thanks man
Glad it was useful! 👍🏼
This is so perfectly explained! Definitely need a guide like this for taking out the intake manifold properly! But all together! These videos are so helpful!
Yeah if I get the chance I’ll post a video on that as well.
@friendlymechanic9778 that would be absolutely amazing! Hyped for that video whenever it happens! lol
This is a very professional video the way should be from a real professional like you.
Thank you very much for your help
I have All Data and it was worthless in helping me get this extremely annoying cover off---great video---thank you.
This is the best video walkthrough I’ve ever seen!
My son bought a 2011 328i from a used “hack” car dealer, a few months after, he noticed that it went into limp mode, after driving it in manual mode in order to get up to freeway speeds, the motor just plain stopped working.
I changed the cam position sensors and all, but it still just turns over almost like it’s free spinning. My “mechanic “ said it has no compression, he did a test by ear…🤦🏽♂️ I decided to take a go at it myself and discovered a common problem with these motors, the vanos gears? I’m not sure if that’s the correct spelling. I saw that the aluminum bolts tend to break or back out causing the cams not to spin… is this something you have heard of???
Yea this is a common thing. BMW has a service recall for it, I wouldn’t be able to know for sure without a vin look up though to check if your vehicle qualifies.
If you would like to DM me your VIN on instagram I would be happy to look at it and check for you.
@@friendlymechanic9778I’ll definitely do this when I get home.
I’m also going to start with the solenoids after I do another engine code check.
I would hold off on replacing parts for now. Better to see if you have coverage and have the dealer check the vanos bolts free of charge.
@@friendlymechanic9778 Good evening,
I got the information about the recalls, there are actually two different unresolved recalls on this car, one of which is the Vanos.. I emailed BMW of North America with the information, hopefully they will resolve this. 🤙🏾
Sounds good! Hopefully everything turns out okay. Let me know how it goes.
Respect to owning up to not unplugging battery first💯💯💯💯hopefully this reminds me when I do this job
Yeah usually I remember. But sometimes I get carried away and remember when I get to that little power junction.
Very well explained process. Thank you!
Thank you for the very useful video? What is the torque down sequence at 36:38? We start with outer bolts or we start with center bolts? Can you please clarify?
Thank you for taking the time and making this Great video, very thorough comparing to other mechanics.
I’m working on my 128i, it’s a bit easier not having the SULEV system in the way.
Thank you 👍🏼 and yes it’s nice not having to worry about that.
Ok this was an amazing tutorial. Very informative.
Glad it was helpful!👍🏼
Earned a sub. Thanks you. Best tutorial so far. In depth and honest about the struggles
Thank you I appreciate the support!
Damn great video. Bmw never disappoints making everything 10 times more work .😂
Thank you appreciate it. I’m going to eventually post the N20, N55, B58 as well. Just need to get them first.
Best video on this job on RUclips!!! Just wondering where on the oil pan are you jacking to lift the engine? Are you attempting to raise the front of the engine or the back or the entire engine up just a little? Thank you!
Your videos are great and super detailed, keep the great job
Thank you will do! 👍🏼
Awesome video! Did you happen to include the torque values for the bolts on the strut towers and the one by the windshield and the torque for the valve cover bolts themselves?
What a great in depth video. I have this job upcoming shortly for my first time. Most important to me was you showing close ups of the various clip releases as most other videos I've watched gloss over that aspect. Subscribed and liked. Good luck with your channel. Doesn't the valvetronic motor need to relearn with a key sequence before starting? 2010 E91 with N52.
Thank you for your support!
The valvetronic will do a sweep when you cycle the key back on to ignition. You don’t have to worry about doing this procedure because it will happen automatically.
@@friendlymechanic9778 Belated thanks, the job was successful. The hardest for me was the PCV hose connection in the back. Now I'm waiting for my Vanos recall number to come up so somebody else can do it all over again. I do have the Vanos bolts in from FCP and another new gasket just in case.
Thanks for the video man. For the valvetronic motor does it require any recalibration method with the way you removed and installed it back on? That’s the only thing I’m still confused on since other videos talk about a recalibration process.
The valvetronic will do a sweep when you cycle the key back on to ignition. You don't have to worry about doing this procedure because it will happen automatically.
What a great video. Thanks for taking time to explain it in detail.
👍🏼
Hey I did mine but now starts but it cuts off I have a voltage supply code
What is the code?
Thanks for the video. Awesome tip with the Crazy Glue
Just in time for my upcoming DIY on this! Thank you!
Will you also be doing the oil filter housing gasket? I'd love to follow your guide for the necessary tools for the job and some tips on how to properly tackle it, because I see many people online taking out the intake manifold to reach the top bolt, even draining the oil and coolant completely, and some even suggest replacing the serpentine belt while at it, but other people don't do any of these things and make it look very easy. Mine is due for an oil service though, so I'll be draining the oil completely before changing the gasket. Thanks again!
Oh nice perfect timing.
I will do an oil filter housing gasket as soon as I get one to do. I don’t remove the intake manifold when I do that repair because I use a snap on 1/4” swivel E10. Without this socket you will need to remove the intake manifold. As far as draining oil and coolant completely, it’s a good idea so you don’t make a huge mess everywhere. But if you can catch all escaping fluids and then wash it down and catch all the water you used to clean the engine then you don’t need to drain oil and coolant.
One way is quicker and messy
The other is long and cleaner.
As far as replacing the serpentine belt, I would only replace the belt if it’s cracking. But when doing this job you will need to protect it from getting oil soaked.
As soon as I can I’ll get a video up on the oil filter housing gasket repair.
Removing the valve cover itself basically requires magic, boy that was frustrating. Was smooth sailing besides that, couple different little things as I have the early magnesium vc and no secondary air hose/port.
saved subbed and oustanding overall work through of the replacement. I am being given a 328i 2010 and was looking at preventive mantience and overall health of the car. Is this something you see as more preventive proactive work or something as a wait and see type job. Meaning I am going to go over replacing whatever I can but don't want to just throw the parts canon at it. Routine stuff IE spark plugs, oil changes and ect.
Thanks again and love the work
Awesome video! Did you happen to include the torque values on the bolts for the strut towers and the one by the windshield and the torque the valve cover bolts?
The good for if you are replacing the gasket, I’ve replaced the cover and gaskets.
I ordered my valve cover kit from FCPEuro, over all great kit, comes with everything you need to get the job done.
I did run into an issue when reassembling: the valvetronic motor did not want it aligned for me to liven up the bolts, I had to slightly bore out the holes on the V motor brackets to get it to align with valve covers pre assembled brackets, I think, this has something to do with the aftermarket valve cover molds, I’d say they are a tiny bit off.
Other than that, after reassembly I’ve ran into bad misfiring issues, end up replacing all 6 ignition coils, misfiring went away.
At the moment I’m dealing with several codes:
for throttle valve potentiometer 1 and 2 and low voltage to throttle switch
Here are the codes: 2cF9, 2cFa, 2D1D, 2D09
Any input would be greatly appreciated.
Great tip about not cracking the windshield.
Yeah it doesn’t happen often but just wanted to throw that warning out there. I’ve seen it happen.
@@friendlymechanic9778 Hey, you have probably saved a lot of people from making a costly mistake. Also I am getting ready to replace the valve cover gasket on my 2006 BMW 325i. Do I have to buy the part from the dealer or can I buy it third party?
Yeah when I started this channel that was one of the main reasons. To help people avoid costly mistakes that I have made or have seen people make.
You don’t need to get it from the dealer. Third party is okay.
@@friendlymechanic9778 Thanks so much man, I really appreciate it 😀
👊🏼
Perfect video, thank you so muuuch
No problem 👍🏼
Wow! Amazing video!!.......Found an oil spot on my garage floor and still trying to figure where the leak is coming from. Looking at some other Oil Leak videos, it could be Valve Cover gasket, Crank shaft seal, various O rings from solenoid, Oil filter housing gasket.......any tips on helping me locate the leak would be greatly appreciated..........if it is the valve cover gasket you have inspired me to try to do it myself! Thanks so much!! Also if you don't mind me asking.....what is the typical charge at a dealership to have a valve gasket put on a 328i?......... Subscribed!!
The typical charge is $1200-1800 but it depends on location as well
Thank you for the support! 👍🏼
On these engines the three main oil leaks are the valve cover gasket, oil pan gasket and oil filter housing gasket.
Valve cover gasket usually causes a burning oil smell because it lands on the exhaust manifold.
The oil pan gasket you usually see oil leaking on the passenger side of the engine or where the engine and transmission meet.
Oil filter housing is usually the front of the engine or oil running down the driver side of the engine.
If you have an N51 SULEV engine the valve cover gasket is covered for 15 years or 150,000 miles.
Where I work we charge on the higher end of the $1200-$1800 price range.
Hello, THis is very useful video. Thanks for sharing. I tried to fix my valve cover gasket but while putting the cover back on, I over tightened the middle 10mm self-locking bolt and it broke in the middle. Do I need to take it out? if yes, how? also, if I do not take it out does it leak or will start start? Any help is appreciated. Thanks
I have a 323i with a strut brace making horrible to get off, is that a standard thing for that car to have
I’m sorry I don’t fully understand the question can you clarify?
Hello. Thank you very much for your video. Some advice that is preferable to replace the whole plastic valve cover, not just the gaskets? what are your thoughts about this? I have a leak on a Z4 E89 with a N52B25 engine with 160k kilometers. Should I just replace the gaskets if the valve cover is visually ok?
On this valve cover I would just do the gaskets if there is no visual signs of cracks.
@@friendlymechanic9778true I’m doin mine tomorrow got every tool you just said on here. It was hard finding a 1/2 e18
I have links in the description for every tool you will need for future reference 👍🏼
@@friendlymechanic9778 yup I appreciate you I ended up going to harbor freight due to some stuff being out of stock
@@friendlymechanic9778 since you replying…
Off the top of your head , any quick things NOT to do?
I am also doing shaft sensor replacement
Replace the cover as well or it will still leak, ask me how I know. The plastic cover warps with age
Correct! Found the same with experience. The only mitigation is a lot of caulking on both sides of the cover via Permatex. Otherwise, a new cover, bolts and gaskets are only about 90 bucks. Every 5 years or so.
Will the process be the same for the magnesium valve covers? Are any extra steps required for them?
Best Video tutorial ever❤
Hey man thanks for the video. I had no idea where to put that negative terminal that's seen at 10:17 of the video. Did you reattach it to the same place or to the bolt next to it? different tutorials have it at different places.
I’ve seen it attached in both places. But it should be on the left side. But it honestly doesn’t matter which spot you put it. They are both good grounds.
So nice, special thanks.
Ppl please Sprott him at least give him like 👍 so he can keep Continue do more videos the way he works he's professional explains everything
Super good explaining of tecniik ! ❤
Thank you!
Hello , dusty dirty situation with this engine. I admire your skills and you always do great work, Have another question, I was told I just can't put any battery in my X1, that I have to go to BMW and they have to register the battery to the car with something? Is that true and is it something I can learn to do. Ty as always
You do need a certain battery, but it doesn’t have to be BMW. you just need to get the same ratings. Match the CCA and AH(amp hours).
It does need to be registered but you need a fancy scan tool or the OEM BMW one.
Ok, thank you @@friendlymechanic9778
I purchased a bluetooth adapter (OBDLink CX) along with Bimmercode and Bimmerlink to register and put in the exact specifications of the battery. The adapter is $80, bimmercode and bimmer link are $40 each. You use bimmercode first to put the specifications of the battery (the amount of Ah and if it is AGM or not). Then you go over to bimmerlink where you register the battery.
Hey. Getting ready to tackle this job on the weekend. Unless I missed it I didn’t notice when you reconnected that “brittle” vent line near the back of the engine. Was that done after torquing or when’s a good time to reconnect that hose?
After you connect the O2 sensor connectors is when I re connected it.
Thanks for the reply. The Krazy Glue idea is absolutely brilliant. Thanks for the detailed video! 👍
I Made that mistake once. I put the valve cover back on and I decided to reattach the hose first, only to realize that there’s bolts underneath it. And of course it broke upon being removed a second time
Awesome video!
Thank you 👍🏼
Any videos on headgasket repair? Will be using this one as well! Thank you
No not yet. But when I get a repair for head gasket replacement. I’ll post one. Just none so far.
Is it normal for the car to smoke after the new valve cover gasket is installed. On the first start up?
Yes it is normal, it goes away after a few minutes.
What do I do if that vent on the bottom does fall off? Does it matter do I have to replace the cover now? It won’t stay on now
Which vent? At what time stamp is it shown?
@@friendlymechanic9778 25:53
It would be better to replace the valve cover. But in a pinch you can crazy glue it back on let it sit and harden and re-install the cover.
I was just quoted 2,026.68 for this job and 739 on oil filter gasket. 07 328i e93 should be the same process here?
Yes the process is very similar.
Any reason you couldn’t show disconnecting the battery in the same video?
At 5:09 I show removing the negative battery terminal 👍🏼
@@friendlymechanic9778 sorry man just frustrated haha mine was stuck so I figured I did it wrong ended up just fighting it till she was off thanks for the video sorry for the comment
It’s all good no worries. Let me know if I can help further.
I’ve a very minimal leak from the from thr valve cover gaskets, it is ok if I would like to replace it little later ?
Yeah if it’s not a big leak it’s okay to wait a little longer. If it starts smoking I wouldn’t delay it anymore than that
@@friendlymechanic9778 how can i fix squeak noise from one of my rear suspension? Look like it’s a bushing. Many Random mechanic are saying they will fix it for 250-300$
That may be difficult to advise on. I would need to hear the squeak or see which one they are talking about. You can send me photos to look at on instagram if you like.
@@friendlymechanic9778 I sent you Dm on Instagram
@@gobindsingh3544I have the same. I was told lower control arm bushings
What’s a good way to remove the Valvtronic motor if it’s not wiggling off?
If it won’t wiggle off check if there is silicone around the gasket. If there is your gonna have a hard fight getting it off. It won’t be nice and it’s not gonna be gentle. There will be a risk of cracking the valve cover as well.
If you get it off successfully remove all the silicone and don’t use silicone to reinstall.
If there is no silicone just keep wiggling back and forth and you can un screw the 4mm slightly to help push off from the valve tronic gear. But don’t keep unscrewing. You will need to screw back in to bottom out the valve tronic and start again.
@@friendlymechanic9778 yeah I’m replacing the whole valve cover anyways so I’m not to worried of the cover cracking. Thank you for the info!
👍🏼 anytime.
@@friendlymechanic9778so I got everything swapped out and I put the valvtronic motor in just like you showed. After it’s screwed in with the 3 screws to I need to do anything with the Allen key turning it left or right?
@lilarmybro50 no nothing else is needed. When ignition is turned on the valve tronic motor will do a self sweep and adjust as needed.
Great video
One of my spacers fell out when I removed it and forgot to put it back in do I have to take my cover back off to put the spacer in or will it be fine?
It’s best to have it in. But which spacer is it? If there are no air leaks and no oil leaks you should be okay though.
The spacer is so you don’t tighten down the bolt too much, it can strip or break off completely. Was the bolt torqued down correctly?
Thanks!
Thank you so much! I appreciate the support! 👍🏼
does the engine oil or coolant need to be drained out before doint this?
No you don’t need to drain oil or coolant
Hello, I want to know if the leak is from the valve cover gasket, the oil comes out through a hole at the bottom of the engine side, thank you
The leak is usually from the valve cover gasket. In rare occasions the valve cover itself can be cracked.
@@friendlymechanic9778 ok tku
Do you have to reregister the battery if you disconnect and then reconnect.
No, only if it is replaced.
Is it recommended to replace the valve cover as well?
I determine if the valve cover needs to be replaced on a case by case basis. Things to consider are the age of the vehicle, miles, what other faults does the car have? Generally I re-use the valve covers on the E90 N51 and N52 engines because they are proven to not crack as easily as other BMW engines, but it really depends on the condition of the car.
@@friendlymechanic9778 Thank you very much
What is the part number on the 8mm screws. I need em.
Micro filter housing screws 8mm
X6 total 07-14-7-118-369
Panel that micro filter housing sits on 8mm
X2 total 07-11-9-904-268
Great vid!
👍🏼 thank you!
How long it take ?
This takes around 4-5 hours for a beginner.
If you have some experience about 3 hours
How many times ya'll said "Fuck this shit" while doing this job? My count is around 80-90.
My engine is running rough and it has a wisttling sound and it looses power, what can it be
That is e90 2008 model 323i
@@malebogolevymafolo746 the diaphragm on the valve cover is broken i had the same problem you will have to replace the valve cover because that diaphragm is not replaceable by itself its integral to the valve cover
This is a common issue with the E90 valve covers. Unfortunately the only reliable repair is to replace the complete valve cover.
What happens is the crankcase pressures are out of spec. I use a manometer to verify the issue, but it is not necessary. You can do a simple test.
While the engine is running and whistling remove the engine oil fill cap slowly. If you feel resistance and hear air being sucked in and at the same time the whistle goes away. The crankcase pressures are out of spec and I would start with replacing the valve cover.
In some rare cases after replacing the valve cover the whistle noise can return. Only this time the most likely cause is the front main seal. And in even more extreme cases the whistle noise can return for the rear main seal.
The chances of this happening are extremely slim and the valve cover fixes the issue 99% of the time.
Hope this helps 👍🏼
Ehat happened to the soark plug tube
Pull them out before removing the valve cover.
Can somone help me im having like plastic smell from the vents.
Do you see smoke? More noticeable during cold start ups?
Hey seriously if you are in Chicago wanna do my 2011 BMW same job ? I would pay you reasonable price.
I’m sorry I’m not in that area.
@@friendlymechanic9778did u hear a whining sound ? From pcv
Not on this car but it is very common for the PCV to fail and cause that noise.
no conoces a alguien neta?
no oil drain?
Correct no oil drain is necessary
Just replace the valve cover too
100% correct, the cover must be replaced as the plastic material warps slightly on with age and you’ll never seal it. Dealers will usually recommend a new valve cover for this reason
@@Rob4999 yeah just bought a aluminum one
Plastic valve covers can warp and crack but it is less common on the E90’s very few cases have I seen when the cover cracks on the N51 N52 engines. Gasket replacement is an acceptable repair as they do seal back up nicely.
If you are talking about the F30 with the N20 N26 plastic valve covers those I have seen crack more often and would always recommend a complete valve cover replacement with higher mileage. The valve cover cracks mainly due to improper torque sequence when removing and installing.
The N51/52 engine torque sequence is very forgiving. The N20/26 cover is not. There are 20 bolts that must be released and tightened down in a specific order.
@@friendlymechanic9778 i had to have mine completely redone because gaskets only didn’t stop the leak. Don’t take a chance replace the valve cover.
I absolutely agree with you. If you have a different set of circumstances such as your case where the valve cover won’t seal I would recommend replacing the valve cover completely.
But for the majority of the E90’s I have serviced replacing the complete valve cover was not necessary. I know this because I have only seen a very small percentage actually develop a leak soon after replacement. Depending on where you live MSRP on a new valve cover is $600-$800 USD. Compared to a new set of gaskets at maximum $100.00 USD. This isn’t a cheap part to recommend on a very small fail rate, but sometimes it does need to be replaced.
No offense but this looks like something a trained BMW mechanic needs to be doing.
Bro can I like message you or something? I hit you on insta but no reply. I got a huge couple questions before I start this pleassseeee
Yeah I’ll go check instagram for your message. Feel free to ask additional questions if you need
Amazing video thank you so much.
What’s the hose called behind the engine that is easy to break ? Even by looking at it
It’s the Positive crank case hose. It can also be referred to as the vent line for the PCV.