Keurig Classic K50 Disassembly and Theory of Operation
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- Keurig coffee makers are wonderful machines, but when they need repair they can be challenging to take apart. Removing the screws is only half the battle, since there are snap fasteners inside that are not accessible from the outside.
I thought I would create a video that would not only show people where the screws and fasteners are, but also how to unfasten them without damaging the machine. The video also covers the suggested order of disassembly to keep it as easy as possible. The machine that we are disassembling today is the Keurig K50 K-Classic brewer (that is the model listed underneath on the bottom of it).
The Theory of Operation section describes how the various pumps and other devices inside the machine operate and what they are for. This will help in diagnosing what part is causing the problem. This theory of operation will also apply to some other recent Keurig brewer models as well, besides this one. We also touch briefly on how the recent machines operate a little differently from the older machines.
Intro: • Keurig Classic K50 Dis...
Disassembly: • Keurig Classic K50 Dis...
Theory of Operation: • Keurig Classic K50 Dis...
Closing and Credits: • Keurig Classic K50 Dis...
Not flashy or a professional speaker, but the best instructional video on the Keurig I've seen. Well done!
Wow, thanks! I tried to be thorough.
Great job explaining the tear down and workings of the machine. Your video didn't help resolve my issue of a very noisy pump, however it will definitely help me to disassemble the unit. Thanks.
Thanks for telling me not to turn it over before telling me where the screws are. Appreciate that.
are you a teacher? you explain the method to the madness with such good descriptions and instruction ....repairing gizmos can be tricky I admire you thanks for the help on my coffee machine ....now everybody is happy again at work...with a good old boost of the morning brew.
Wow, thanks! I'm actually an engineer, but I have been in the habit of repairing things for years, and started out repairing TVs many years ago.
Nice, super simple and easy explanation . Goes to show how our grandparents and dads aren’t staying behind & still teach us young kids (23yearold)about modern technology that is barley coming out . Always have to respect those who are here before us and teaching us without even having to ask . Thank you sir keep up the good work
Well, thanks. I'm still employed, but I like to think that I still have enough skills that I can contribute to help others as I get older. At your age, many others wouldn't even have the wisdom to notice the older generation, much less appreciate them, but you do. I think great things are in store for you.
Thanks for your help with the disassembly. With your detailed instructions, I was able to replace the mini air pump and return my Keurig to full service. I refuse to throw it out because a $5 part failed!
You're very welcome. Glad it worked out for you!
Where were you able to find parts for the unit? Thanks
People mostly buy used Keurig parts on E-Bay and Amazon. There are also used air pumps at skycraftsurplus.com/products/12-volt-dc-diaphragm-air-purge-pump.html and www.sciplus.com/12vdc-mini-diaphragm-air-pump-49508-p. I also found these new pumps on Amazon at www.amazon.com/DANXQ-Newly-Motor-Electric-Diaphragm/dp/B01HIBGZQ6/ref=psdc_2975471011_t1_B07FGFPKNS?th=1. Disclaimer - I did not look these up by part number on Amazon; they just happened to look the same, and the voltage matches. Note that these would not directly fit into the Keurig though without disassembling them slightly to install the mounting bracket that is Keurig specific, but they are new. I have not tried these at all, but they looked interesting.
@@getitsettech1015 thanks. I must’ve gotten a really good unit. I had it for at least eight years made thousands of cups of coffee and have not had one single issue with it.
I gotta second Laurence on that last comment. This went shockingly close to real-time, following the video with a screwdriver in hand. This thing is no trifle to tinker about, sir. Most complicated item in my kitchen besides the microwave, and I know every component now. Well delivered, seriously the pacing had my problem zeroed before i even realized it. Also, I too skipped back from two other accidentally tapped videos in the beginning. Had to come back to this one. Night and day. Thanks for making that.
Well, I removed the top shroud and immediately discovered the hot water tank is cracked right in half..This machine was given to me from a bush camp...Lord only knows what happened to it..Thank you again for your excellent troubleshooting assistabce
Sorry to hear that. Sounds like it might have gotten left in the weather and the water that is trapped inside froze.
Planned obsolescence, wish I had my grandmothers old metal percolator pot, it worked till the day she died, made the best coffee, and was over 20 years old
This is a terrible design from the standpoint of cleaning. The front k-cup dispenser area should be removable because over time it collects an absurd amount of grunge.
I needed to disassemble mine so I can get the water out to store my Keurig. This video helped a lot! Thank you for the step by step process.
Pro tip: Don’t do this while your Keurig is hot! I got burnt bad😂let it cool down first
Great demonstration.
I am buying a new one 😂
Great job, i took one apart a year or so ago and completely busted the case! No wonder :)
Very helpful video.
My Keurig Classic was shutting off when the cup size buttons were pressed. I disassembled the unit per your excellent instructions and found no obvious issues (loose wires, burned out components, etc) but when I reattached the ribbon cable to the circuit board everything started working again. May have been loose or dirty contacts. If it happens again I will know you only have to remove the top cover to access the connector.
Hope this helps someone else.
Thanks for that information - I think this could help some people. Once we know that that connector can have dirty contacts, it could even explain some other problems that are different than the problem you talked about. That would be one more thing that people could try.
Great video. You don't have to drill out the rivet. It is easier to cut the wires. Then you can attach crimp-on connectors to the wires. One pair of connectors is all you need. A spade connectors pair or a bullet connector pair. Then next time you remove the bottom cover, to completely detach the cover and get it out of your way, all you have to do is pull the connectors apart.
Sounds like a good idea. I drilled the rivet on my B60, but bullet connectors would have been more convenient in the long run, thanks.
Thank you,
Great video...
PS- I shake like you do ..... Its just a sign of the many years of education and learning that We have acquired 😎👍
Keep the Vids coming!!
Education, learning, and a ton of morning caffeine! Nice to know you can relate. You and I both still have things we are good at and can help people with.
thanks for making this. this should have been a 5 min video.
Awesome and very informative video. Exactly what I needed to know to fix one that I have added to my hoard!
Glad it was helpful! Once you find out what was wrong with it, it might be interesting to share it with us.
@@getitsettech1015 I believe the one I have was left outside with water in it and it froze. Two of the hoses were pushed off, and once I put them back on, it works. Luckily, the boiler was OK and didn't get cracked.
Ah, that was fortunate. Glad it worked out.
This is a very helpful video. Thanks!
Thanks for the informative video. Do you now if the heating plate is made of stainless steal or aluminum? On the newer K-Select models they use a helical heating tube that's made of aluminum. My concern is that the aluminum will corroded over time and release toxins in to my brew water.
These things are a monument to human over-engineering. But something about it's design is totally charming, it has a lot of mechanical steps, many with points of direct electronic interface. Some left field solutions, but the board looks more like a chonky piece of 80s stereo pcb... Ya know if one had an air tube interface lol. A lot of thought went into it. All this... for one damn cup of coffee!? Salute.
80s stereo PCB? I remember those - I see your point. The old-style technology does make it a little easier to trace through and understand what's going on though. At least more so than guessing what the firmware is programmed to do.
@@getitsettech1015 Yeah, I'm not sure what I expected to see, single pour-over coffee being the simplest of hot drinks... But I suppose *either several smaller boards throughout/more discreet modular systems, or more kinetic/mechanical means? Mind you I went in with apathy, as K's brew too quickly for a full bodied/caffeinated cup, a weak pour-over IMHO. I was utterly unprepared for the analog and digital forces at work to automate the process.
@@getitsettech1015 Now my hacker brain won't disengage, convinced a K could be modded to my tastes. I prefer a French press or percolator, chemex pour, and just fine with a standard coffeemaker (for the caffeine extraction more than flavor). I might have coffee twice a week at best, but it is a process on days I'm already running slow. If I can make this thing do what I can do with minimal beans, it would be worth an extra couple mins runtime to cut my prep. It currently makes single cups I would drink half a pot of anyways, but I bet it could make some one & done. Well, crap. I think I just committed. Sorry for the rant. Great video though. Dammit
Door switched failed on the Keurig classic, got the top cap off, but having trouble getting to to the switch. It looks like the white button is jammed in. I assume mounting screws, so the assembly must pull out some how. The how is the problem.
Oh and thank you for this excellent video..
Thanks a lot sir for awesome video. God bless👍🙂
So nice of you! Thank you for the comment.
Thank you for an excellant video. From Frisco, TX
Glad it was helpful!
33:05 on the Supream, there is an opto sensor as part of the pump which appears to "count" the number of pump cycles. The number of pump cycles determins the cup size.
Does this unit have a water filter....i dont see anything on mine..??
Well done! Excellent!
Thank you sir, this helped me out a lot!
You're welcome!
I had a very dead spider in my cup of coffee. Was there any way it could have crawled into the machine snd got in where the water is in the machine itself (not the reservoir) I am certain it wasn’t in the reservoir, nor was it in my mug prior to brewing. I’m ready to throw the machine away but I don’t want to if I don’t have to.
Oh gosh that's disgusting 😣 Well I hate to say it, it's possible it somehow entered the inside water tank. I would guess through the needle where the coffee comes out. I actually just opened mine and there was quite a few spider webs 🤦♀️...one more reason I hate spiders. Anyway sorry for my rambles, hopefully that was the first and last time you have a spider in your mug!
There is a ventilation port on the side of the machine on the flat side where the reservoir sits against it, but if anything gets in there it can't get into the hot water tank because it is blocked by what looks like a filter before it can get there. The only likely place I can think of is a hole underneath the arm just before the needle that goes into the K-Cup. See 37:03 in the video. The hole is always closed up if the arm is down, like it is while brewing. If the arm is up to insert the K-Cup, then the hole is open. I hadn't thought about it, but maybe that's a good reason to keep the arm down while not using the machine. But like the other person said, it's also quite possible that it could have entered through the needle. If it's almost time to de-scale the machine anyway, doing so might give a person some more peace of mind 😉.
I have a K80 that looks almost identical except for the buttons. It has a strong button and 4 cup sizes (12 oz size added). It fails to power on, but it will allow me to set the auto off and auto on functions as well as.a high altitude setting.
Tested both motors with external 12v supply and can pump water through the system, air purge after, thermistor reads 48k. 10ohm across heater leads. Any ideas how to get it to power on?
Thermal fuse is ok of course since button combo to set auto off works just fine.
It sounds like you have a good handle on how to test it out. I really wish I could say why it won't power on, but I'm just not sure right now. The main brain of the device is an STM32F070CBT6 Micro Controller. It is live whenever the unit is plugged in, so I am assuming that the Power On button is a discrete input to it, and the controller makes a decision about whether or not to power on the machine. It may be seeing a condition of some kind that it doesn't like, but I can't imagine what, since you have checked out most of the main parts. You could check that the ribbon cable isn't cracked or torn. Other than that, it's a matter of you or I trying to come up with some idea of anything else that might make it unhappy enough not to start up.
Mine is only brewing 2/3 of a cup & stops what should i do to fix this
Wonderful video thanks a lot !!
Glad you liked it!
I enjoyed your video. Thank you for disassembling this unit. It keeps me from getting in trouble for disassembling ours. Lol
I should do the descaling process for this unit I have.
It is the larger style that I also has a pot of coffee.
I do not have access to the owner's manual, but do you have suggestions for descaling?
Imagine the manufacturer recommends a very specific product, but I'm sure others would work. What have you had success with?
Once again thank you for making videos
White vinegar then lots of water running through the empty K-cup holder into a cup repeatedly.
Is it posible to retrofit some of the components onto the older B models, because I have a B70, and I like the interface on that model (it allows me to select 5 cup sizes instead of 3).
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!
You're very welcome. Hope it helps.
I have older maybe 2012 Platinum model that wasnt really peesurizing enough to finish the brew but after putting it away for awhile it doesn't even do that no water at all but i never took it apart
Any idea why it would continually pump cold water as soon as it’s turned on? Comes out of the needle so that’s not blocked as far as I can tell. No preheat or blue lights indicating what cup size you want ect
I'm not coming up with any ideas right now. If the water pump was controlled by a relay, I would have suggested tapping the relay to see if it was stuck. But, the water pump isn't controlled by a relay (at least not on this model) - it is turned on by a small transistor (Q8) near the plug on the circuit board. The transistor has a circuit board path to the main processor chip, which turns the water pump on via the transistor. If you have the machine open, you could check to see if Q8 is shorted. If not, then I would suspect that the main processor is bad, but you are still able to turn the machine on, so that means the processor is functioning at least somewhat. So it's hard to say. Buying a used K50 circuit board on E-Bay would most likely cure it, if the cost is worth it.
Great video! ...My K50 froze and looks like the hot water tank leaks between the metal bottom and plastic top. Is it worth fixing and where would you get the parts? thanks
The only place I know of to get a tank is used ones on E-Bay. Sometimes they sell the tanks there, maybe along with some other parts included. As to whether it is worth it, it just depends on how much they are charging for the tank compared to how much a comparable new Keurig would cost.
I don't know if anybody has tried re-sealing a tank in that situation with an adhesive of some kind. The adhesive would need to be food safe, and take the heat. SIL-BOND RTV 6500 is a possible adhesive that meets both of those requirements, but I've never tried it and I don't know if it withstands pressure.
How does the machine determine how much water to dispense? Normally the water pump fill to a certain level and air dispense it out. If water pump fill and dispense did they put a flow meter in to count 6, 8 or 10 oz ?
Initially I thought that they were determining the 6, 8 or 10 oz just from how long they let the water pump run. The less time it runs, the less water. This would be just a guess on their part. But recently, I noticed that the water pump not only has terminals for the two wires that provide power to it, but four more terminals on the side of the water pump with black wires connected to them. All of these wires run to the processor board. Maybe there is a flow sensor of some type inside the water pump, or maybe it just counts the number of times the shaft spins. Some day I might take one apart to find out. The older B-Series Keurigs didn't have these extra four wires going to the water pump, because like you said, they had a different way of measuring the brew size back then.
Your previous message
Thanks for the very informative video. I have a K50 Keurig with the PT0000002628 board in it. The red MOV1 component on the board was blown from a power surge and I replaced the entire board. The unit still does not turn on. I do hear a relay click when I connect it to power, but that's it. What should I check next?
I have a K50 that is doing the same thing - the relay clicks, but you can't turn it on. I hate to say this, but I'm not sure what could be causing it to act that way. The thermal fuse on the hot water heater measures good, and has to be, otherwise the relay wouldn't even be able to click because it has no power at all. The heating element in the hot water tank reads good and so does the thermistor. I measured the DC power voltages on the board and they all check good. Maybe it's possible that the display board is at fault somehow, but I wouldn't know how to prove it other than getting a new one and trying it out.
Very helpfull
Glad it helped
Is there any other way to repair a kuerig was plug in to 220 volts instead of 110 ? Thanks for the answer in advance
Sorry, but I don't think so. While some electronic devices are designed to work off of either 110V or 220V without having to switch anything, the Keurig doesn't seem to be one of them, since any I have seen (in the USA) have specified only 120V AC on the bottom panel. The older Keurigs used a large transformer in the power supply, but the newer ones are more solid state with a smaller transformer. Either way, the only way I know of to repair it would be to look on E-Bay for a replacement main board if there is one available. The Keurig model that the board comes from needs to match the Keurig that you have.
@@getitsettech1015 thank you for the information 🥰🥰
When I press the button to begin brewing, I hear the water pumping and then the water goes out the bottom of the machine onto the counter..where should I look first for the leak?
Is any water coming out of the needle into the K-pod at all, or all of it coming out the bottom?
@@getitsettech1015 It is all coming out the bottom..
Sometimes the air pump gets moisture inside of it and then gets corroded. After that it often leaks, which would come out the bottom. You would have to remove the outer shroud from the sides to get to it to replace it. But the fact that no water comes out of the needle at all makes me wonder whether the needle is completely clogged. This could possibly cause the water to come out of the pressure relief valve, but then it would dump out through that hole into the cavity where the K-cup handle is. From there, I would think it would tend to dump out the front of the machine after that, but maybe it could find its way to the bottom. You could unsnap the pod holder and remove it to look into the cavity to see whether it is obviously wet back there. If it is, you could try cleaning the needle with a paper clip unless you already tried that.
@@getitsettech1015 Thank you so much..I didn't check the needle..I will try these suggestions..I will tackle this tomorrow!
what should i do if my keurig cap won’t open. like the place that you put the keurig in is completely stuck shut
You mean that when you grab the handle you can't move it? Do you know what model you have? Does it look like the one in this video, or a different one? You could go to the top cover (that goes up and down with the handle) and look at the back of it. Take a flashlight and look into the gap between it and the back of the machine. Make sure there is nothing in there that might be jamming it. There shouldn't be anything in there at all. If there's nothing in there, you could just give the machine some hard slaps on the side or pick it up and shake it to see if that helps. Could even turn it upside down and bang it. If none of this helps, you might have to take it apart to take a look.
Yank on that mf
Hello, I have two K79 coffee makers that I purchased new and took out of service years ago in good working order. Both were used lightly. Recently, when I needed another Keurig I decided to unbox one and set it up for use, however upon filling up the external reservoir and turning it on the pump would rum continuously and then show "Prime" on the LCD screen. I tried both units and both are presenting the same. Tanks spotless and flowing. These look very complicated to access components, but I am motivated to repair these if possible. Could you offer any thoughts or advice? Thank you Lj
I haven't been inside this model, but I'm guessing it is similar to the B70 design inside, which used the solenoid valves. The solenoid valves had the habit of corroding and going bad, but in later designs, they replaced the original solenoid valves with ones made by CEME, according to the label. One would assume that they did this to try to solve the problem with the earlier valves.
When it runs continuously, does it pour water back into the outside water reservoir?
Does it dispense any water into the coffee cup?
You might try to look for the ventilation port near the top of the outside water reservoir. Start to brew a cup and wait until it is done pulling water from the reservoir, then when it should start to actually dispense into the cup, hold your finger over this port to block air (or water) from getting out. If this improves it any, then one of the valves inside is stuck open.
How 'bout a thank-you for @Getsec Tech?
@@iamachine you are right, thanks and Thanks a bunch GetitSet Tech!
i have a k55. i press the power button and the green light comes on and goes right back off in 2 seconds. what might that be???
It's hard to say for sure. Since you have it apart, you might check to see that the hot water tank inside is filling up with water like it should. It has to fill up close to the top before it can start heating the water. You can check by shaking the machine a little and look to see if the water surface in the plastic top of the tank is moving around. If it isn't filling up, you could listen to see whether the water pump is trying to run. If not, it might be bad or maybe the path is blocked somewhere. Check at the water inlet (that the outside reservoir sits on) to make sure it doesn't look clogged, and also the check valve right next to it. You could also try turning it on with the K-Cup arm opened up to allow air to escape out the other end a little easier (if air can't exit the hot water tank, then it can't fill up with water).
@@getitsettech1015 It is gettig water in the fill tube. Hard to say if the tank has water in it by looking. Now when i press the power button...the green ligh goes on and off very quick. nothing else turns on. when i plug it into the wall socket i hear click. so power is getting to the unit. but it is dead. Is it worth tyring to fix?
I could only guess what the problem might be at this point. If you still have the cover removed and you are familiar with using an ohmmeter, you could check to make sure the hot water tank heating element reads low resistance, and the same for the thermal fuse that is clamped to the tank if you can find it. You could also disconnect the tube to the top of the hot water tank and somehow funnel water into it just in case it isn't full enough. If it's not one of those things, there is no way to know what the firmware might be doing to prohibit the machine from working. Sorry, wish I had some other ideas.
I have performed every DIY fix on my Classic 50 that I am aware of and unfortunately I am not making any progress. Your video is very informative and more than helpful. Do you have a tutorial on what to do when using the paperclip & cleaning both needles, cleaning the valve on the water tank, cleaning the valve on the keurig, and doing multiple runs of descaling is not the solution. My keurig works but it does not produce a full cup of brew. I have taken it apart and I don't see any visible issues. It appears that the suction of water is not being produced at a accurate rate. Buying a new one would be less time consuming but your video gives me much hope. I just need a little more direction. Any suggestions?
Sorry it took me a while to get back to you. If you wanted to check to see what's driving the water pump, you can measure the voltage across the red and black wires at the terminals of the water pump (the pump on the bottom of the unit). The voltage should measure between 7.5 and 7.7 VDC when performing a normal brew (not strong). This voltage will disappear once the air pump takes over at the end of the brew. If the voltage looks OK, you could remove the water pump from the machine by unclipping it from the base, removing the two tubes that are connected to it, and unplug the pump wiring from the main board. Take the pump to a sink. Get a medium amount of water flowing in the sink. Take the port on the side of the pump and carefully stick it into in the flow of water. Now take a 9 volt battery and connect the battery + side to the red wire terminal, and - to the black wire terminal. The pump should run and a moderate flow of water should come out of the other port that is in the center of the pump.
Why does the water pump have those four signal wires in addition to the two dc wires connected directly to the motor?
I haven't proven it, but I suspect that those wires are connected to a sensor that measures the amount of water flow as it goes through the pump. Since there are no electrical probes in the hot water tank anymore to stop filling the tank when you reach the amount of water you want to dispense, I am guessing that if a sensor inside the pump measures water flow, the processor uses that information instead to stop the pump when the time comes. OK, the hot water tank still has one probe at the top to stop the pump when it gets completely full, but other than that the rest of the probes are gone.
I finally took a water pump apart to confirm that there is a water flow sensor inside. There is. The pump shaft has a paddle on it that rotates between a couple of electronic sensors - once per revolution. The sensing arrangement doesn't seem to be magnetic. Instead it is probably an LED emitter on one side of the paddle and a photocell on the other side. So the paddle interrupts the light path. I believe that the processor should be able to equate the number of pump revolutions to the amount of water that has been dispensed.
That's a infrared opto sensor. @@getitsettech1015
The model listed underneath on the bottom of this one I am disassembling in this video is the K-Classic K50. This one has a plastic base that is an integral part of the entire chassis. I have seen a different video from the year 2016, of a teardown of a K55. It had a separate metal base and the internals were arranged a lot like an old B60, with a solenoid valve, multiple level probes in the water tank, 24 volt transformer, mesh filter tee, etc. The one I disassemble in this video is more recent than that, and contains none of these things. It looks like they have simplified the design somewhat in the more recent Keurigs. So an original K55 and a recent K55 may look similar on the outside, but are completely redesigned inside. But even beyond that, there seems to be confusion about differences between the K50 and K55 overall. Many websites out there insist that only the K55 has a Descale indicator light, but mine is a K50 and it has one. These websites say that my K50 is supposed to have a Strong button, but it doesn't.
This is a fantastic video, thanks for the efforts! My K50 stopped working after an across-state relocation. So it pumps cold water in, and brews it, however, it won't dispense coffee anymore. It drips out a drip or two and then goes totally silent. I checked under the top hood there is no jam at all. Would you think it is the air pump is bad, or the hot water tank is bad?
If you can hear it boiling, the hot water tank should be good. As far as pumps, it's really the water pump that does most of the dispensing. The air pump just blows out the last little bit. At 33:25 minutes into the video, it shows a clear tube on top that feeds into a long black dispenser assembly. So if that is clogged up, that could be blocking it. If you haven't already de-scaled the machine, it would be worth doing it because it might loosen the clog up if it's in there. If you happen to have it disassembled, you could get a hold of that tube and try to blow through it to see if it's blocked. Other than that, it could possibly be the water pump.
Forget this! I'd rather just buy a new one!
I’m getting ready to throw mine away. I’ve resorted to drinking instant coffee!
I got half-way into this, and decided it was harder than replacing my iPhone battery, so e-waste it is.
Excellent video! I wanted to hard wire the power so it is alway ‘On’ so I can use my Gosund voice activated plug for my Keurig. I guess you have not removed that circuit board that hides the switches including the power switch. Wonder how hard it would be to just connect the two (assume) power lines attached to the power switch in order to hard wire it. Thanks again for the video
Also mine is a K 60 with the metal base. It doesn’t have the two retainer clips at the top but only the two screws. The display side seems very secure after removing the screws. I’m guessing that there are internal clips that are well connected to make it so firm and you just need to get those broken loose to remove the top?
I have an old B66 that I believe is fairly similar to the K60. I unplugged the power from the wall, held down the power button, and plugged it back in to the wall, and it actually did power itself on that way. So if you could find a way to just tape some rigid object on top of the power button to hold it down, it might work that way without disassembling it. If you want to disassemble it anyway, I did disassemble mine in the past. You have to remove the metal base and stick a very long screwdriver inside through the bottom all the way up through to the top, and then and pop some latches open to remove the outer shroud first. Once the outer shroud is removed, you can remove the top where the button controls are. I don't have detailed instructions, but there are some youtube videos out there. One of them is at ruclips.net/video/e7aebxbLJE0/видео.html. The power button doesn't handle 120VAC power - it just tells the main processor to turn on the unit according to it's firmware instructions, because the processor is always on standby waiting, since the machine is plugged into the wall. You can see a picture of the circuit board at
www.ebay.com/itm/233984206023?hash=item367a8ba4c7:g:44UAAOSwg2lghzdA to get an idea of where you might need to solder. It's labeled SW1 PWR.
@@getitsettech1015 - thanks so much for this reply. I had thought about using some JB Weld to secure the power button like you mentioned or maybe a small piece of wood to hold the button down. securing it somehow would probably be the hardest thing to figure out. That’s a good idea and would work for sure. Thanks again!
@@condor5635 Be careful when you bypass things that were put there to ensure your safety. I would unplug it whenever you are not brewing with it. I believe the first coffee makers were the cause of many fires.
Ok. I've just gotten a year and a half out of mine, and I think what happened was all my fault anyway. This might be cool who love all things DIY and are very frugal. I started taking mine apart, but then it started getting ridiculously too technical for me. So, I'm going to cope with the pain of the loss abd my stupidity and buy another machine, probably a different one. 😢
Woohoo. I have also found a product called Kup-Lift to stop that annoying splashing.
Looks like a good idea. I personally usually use the Strong button, which dispenses slower, so I don't have that problem. But, for other people the Kup-Lift can be helpful.
Cassie 😂😂😂 vehicle or what or is that describe as a part of the body
After watching this video I think I’d rather driver to Krispy Kreme every morning…
It's healthier to burn a bunch of calories taking this thing apart.
WHAT A PAIN IN THE ASS THESE ARE (sheesh)
I cannot get mine apart! I don't see any clips on my version. It's not drawing in water any more. Was hoping to try and figure it out. Looks like I'll just have to replace it.
Yeah.....smh....I'm thinking so, too....
Slowest voice in history, get to the point
40 minute video! Sheeeshhhh. I had to turn this guy up to 2x speed just to watch this. I'm so glad he spent so much time telling us he wouldn't film himself removing the screws rather than just skipping it...
no not useful , good camera work