SOS I Need Your Help | 1999 KX250 Splitfire Rebuild - Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- The 1999 KX250 is torn down to do a Pro Circuit Splitfire build and we are diving deeper into what we are planning to with the bike in this video. But I need your help and opinion on what I should do with some of these parts I have in mind, especially with the suspension! Shoot me your comments in the description below.
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Black DLC with the fauxshima. Learning lesson, to me a lesson is to teach. I’d say learning experience too. You could try sanding the big flats with a DA sander. I did with mine. Maybe they had the new guy blasting that day. Idk, but I hope you get it fixed fast.
Funny thing is, the owner of the company stated that he was training a new guy, but he was with him doing it. I need to give him a call back and follow up about it still.
I'd try to get it as period correct as possible. My vote is for black DLC lowers and kashima uppers. Regarding the sandblasting, they probably used a really course nickel slag as most powder coaters do. Got to remember that powder coat is pretty thick (2-3mils) so it will fill those divots.
I think I'm leaning keep it period correct as well Brett! Thanks for the input on that. Makes sense on the powder coat too, the frame should be fine after you mention that. I've got some work to do to clean up the swingarm and subframe still!
If you’re trying to stick to a 99 pc build I would go with the dlc, it looks badass anyway and go with the legit kashima
It's a badarse combo that's for sure Chuck! Another check mark in the box for that combo. The more I think about it, the more I am feeling it.
Blue/turquoise!!
Hard to beat that choice 🙌🏼 thanks for the input Jeff!
I've been trying to find some hubs for my 96. You said Nvmx uk is old Talon? I found Vmx, is that it? Doesn't look like they sell kx wheels rn though
Hey Chris! It's actually spelled Envy MX, here is their website. www.metricsengineering.co.uk/envy-wheel-hubs/. You can also call up DUBYA and they can refinish your oem hubs, with fresh cerakote. Either way, you've got options!
You should have soda blasted the frame. That sucks they did rough job. I’ve always plugged my own spots I didn’t want blasted.
Now I definitely know for the future that is for sure, or at least question it first before hand. Thanks Ryan!
Blue turquoise would really make it stand out
The blue turquoise really is some of my favorite. Looks so good.
we are getting the lesson your getting the experience
Haha touche!
Blue Turquoise for the coatings
Hard to argue with going that route!
Hey Greg, your vids have helped me a lot! Im 52 years old and still live paycheck to paycheck. Im an old surfer sk8r moto dude. Dont surf anymore but still ride!!! Im rebuilding a 96 kx250 and If theres anyway you could get me a pipe it would one of the nicest thing anyone ever did for me! Im not one to beg but i figured it wouldnt hurt to ask as you were offering in a previous video. Thanks, Stephen
Hey Stephen! Thanks for reaching out dude, that is awesome about rebuilding a 96 KX250, fully support that! I may have come into a couple oem pipes for the KX, if they come through, I will let you know.
this does NOT have the love it deserves... once again, amazing job
I know it's a little late but, I own a 99 KX250 and I had the swing arm vapor blasted and it came out beautiful. It has a nice smooth bare aluminum factory look to it.
Right on! Did the vapor blasting remove the oem coating that was on the swingarm?
@@GregHitchko Yes, the OEM paint/coating was completely removed. Looks 100x better now. I can send you some pics through Instagram if you’d like.
@@JustBraap man I should have just did that in the first place but I didn't think Vapor blasting would take that oem coat off. Now I know! Yeah man shoot me some pictures through the gram 👍🏼
@@GregHitchko Just sent you some. He really only had issues getting the coating off in the corners where the axle blocks go but I think with enough time spent in those areas you could get it all off.
Good information 👌
Cheers dude!
Stay period correct
Pretty sure I am leaning that way dude!
Hey Greg cant wait to see this build i would go with BLUE TURQUOISE i think it will go with the bike 🤙
Thanks for all of the responses Mike! Big fan of the blue turquoise myself. Another check mark for that color!
Man that sandblasting 😢
Don't remind me 😭you win some, you lose some. I'm hoping to bring them back to life 100%
Am sure you will man keep on grinding!! Love the content btw
Dude! That same blasting makes me want to cry!😢 Vapor blasting my brother!! It’s expensive but worth it.
@@ha11iday95 Thanks mate! I'll keep you guys posted on what I do to rectify the problem.
@@grahamobery3547 if only I still had my vapor blaster 😪. I wonder if vapor blasting would help smooth them back out?
They didn’t blast that correctly.
I'd go as period correct as possible!!!
I'm dealing with the same crap from my powder coat. The actual coats look phenomenal. But every bearing journal every bolt hole. Every hole on the calipers. No masking on ANYTHING! I've spent hours cleaning up parts to be able to install.
Ughhh dude I feel your pain, what was the best way you found to clean out all of the holes for bearings and axles, etc?
Your going for the bare metal right? Or is the frame getting powder coated? Sometimes vapor blasting does a really good job at restoring older metal but sadly it would not bring back the factory finish that you get from brand new bikes. I’m sure there’s a coating out there for it but it’ll probably be a small fortune to do. But for the suspension definitely do the hard anodizing. It’ll last longer. But if your looking for performance of the other coating. But if your going for longevity then hard anodizing is better. But those hubs look great. But you’d have to have then fine powder coated then vapor blasted to get them shiny. Then have them clear coated for that finish.
Thanks for the feedback my dude! The frame is getting powder coated the same color that the PC team used back in the day. And I think I am leaning towards the hard anodizing for the fork tubes for longevity!
Find a local blaster and specifically tell them you want glass bead media only used on the parts. Most will not plug holes, I make my own with gorilla tape (thicker for larger holes) Duct tape for the smaller ones. Sticky side out will keep them in place. The chain guide holes sometimes pop out but not a huge deal on those. On the frame neck i use masking tape in small pcs creating a funnel where the races would set, then go over with duct tape the same way. Media will cut through masking tape but it makes it much easier to remove the duct tape.
Update! I actually just dropped the frame off for powder coat at the same place and I brought the swingarm and subframe back to him. I voiced my concern and he's going to blast them with glass bead to smooth them back out. Excited to see how it turns out. This will save me a ton of work at the bench buffer 🤞🏼🙌🏼
I did the same ones. Forgot to remove a sticker and you know what, he sandblasted it off. At the end I had the old sticker inside the aluminium. I stripped and shaved the swingarm by myself to make it nice again. My rule now, I never will send aluminium again to sandblast!
Nope!! It will be the last time I will ever do it!
I'm a spray painter/ blaster to trade and they've made a booboo with those items
Something doesn't seem right with it, right? Did he just use a media that is too heavy and abrasive? If If I had it blasted again with a lighter media, or maybe vapor blasted, do you think it would smooth it back out? Thanks for you input Gary.
@@GregHitchko yes he's used a too high abrasive for them, you could try something less course to see if it takes it down a bit with less pressure, I'd give them a call and tell them about the issue, bead blasting would have been better
@@gary444 okay that is what I will do, see if he can do anything about it. It's a bummer too that he didn't plug up any of the thread holes or spots where the bearings go either. Lesson learned for the future to make sure to double check that stuff.
@@GregHitchko with the frame it also depends on how thick the powder goes on because it might actually cover the blast profile which can be measured, I'm also a nace paint inspector for offshore oil and gas platforms here in Scotland, we use a tape called testex tape to measure blast profiles
I personally love the look of black and gold but the turquoise looks really cool too. Im leaning towards black dlc, looks great and being a stronger coating.
I feel you on all accounts! It's such a hard decision lol. Still undecided.
@@GregHitchko the black coating with the black plactics and theme , come on! 🤤 But really either way you go certainly wont look bad. Eenie meenie miney mo my guy!
WOW i never seen bad blasting like that
Nottt happy to say the least.
Love your content. I have a 2001kx250
Thanks Gary! Team Green baby, there is just something about these green machines, eh?
I like the blue one
Happy birthday
I am going to vote for the blue turquoise...I think that would really pop!!! I have the Tusk swingarm bearing tool...really awesome setup. Works just like doing the bearing with the vise, but no vise needed! I love your Mystery Machine hat!!!
Haha thought I'd switch it up a little bit with the hat, big scooby fan. And man, the blue turquoise looks so good, I love it too
Blue
Let’s go!!!
Yeahh buddy! I know you'll always be the first person here Chris, thank you!
Hey Greg! Thanks so much for the shout out :D Keep up the great work! Cant wait to see the wheels when your done. Mark
Of course Mark! Thank you again for chatting with me about them, such a cool piece to have on the bike. Keep you posted on them for sure once they come together!
Keep the forks period correct!!
My tree has been leaning that way to be honest Billy! Thanks for the input dude.
I would go with the fauxshima hard coat upper and black hard on lowers. The gold and colored lowers don’t last as long if you ride a lot or in sand , I did the blue and purple on one of my older builds and it showed scratches after the first couple of rides I’d go with the black
Thanks for the input on the coatings dude! I think you may have swung me closer to the black DLC now. I love the colors, but you can't beat the function and durability of that black DLC
Yea in addition the cost of kashima coat is quite costly and if you get roosted and ding the coating is not good feeling. fauxshima is the way to go I’ve had no issues with dings or chipping on any of mine yet
@@MOBLEY49 where'd you get the fauxshima done?
Morning Greg I get all my work done by JBI
@@MOBLEY49 I've seen work done by JBI and it comes out really nice. I have them on my list of people to reach out to. Thanks!
Solid as usual Greg // Mikael!
Cheers Mikael! I always appreciate the support🙏
Black
Hard to beat the clean look and function of the black DLC