The Engine Tuning Issue You Didn't Know You Had
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- Опубликовано: 13 апр 2022
- When setting up a hydraulic lifter engine for general high performance use, there are several obstacles that need to be overcome which are built into the very design of the valve train.
Lifter preload, pump up and extremely sloppy assembly line tolerances can quickly add up and result in a modified engine that makes less power than it did dead stock.
Here is an overview using a 383 Chrysler as an example, but the things we cover here apply to any engine with non adjustable rockers.
#valvetrain #rockerarms
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I'm an old timer, was 13 in 1960 and was privileged to live through that golden age of American automobile history. I've been amazed at the 'unspoken' questions I've had, that several of your videos have clearly answered. You rightly deserve the title of 'professor', much more than so many who hang that on their names...but 'Uncle' Tony is much more fitting, as you speak to us in your videos as a wise uncle would explain things to a favorite nephew. I love your 'lectures', keep up the good work.
Uncle Tony is quite the teacher.
Amen , Uncle Tony's Gasket Gospels,,,,,gotta love em
Beats sermons any day and twice on Sunday!
⁰⁰00
Bingo.
One of the things I was most impressed with on the job the machine shop did for me >25 years ago when I modified a couple sets of 360 heads to 2.02 intake valves was that the valve stems were spot on, not even 0.001" difference installed height. Yes, they were brand new Manley Stainless Steel valves so would have all been the same length to start with so they didn't have to grind any stems or anything, but they *bothered* to actually grind the seats precisely to depth so each installed spring height, every top of valve stem was *bang on*
Impressive! I loved that machine shop. Did three engines at once that time, two 360s and a 351W. They assumed I was a race team or something, kept going above and beyond for me at virtually no extra charge. Shot-peening and stress relieving rods, equalizing weights to fractions of a gram... Geez, they only charged me $200 a pop to do full spin balancing on the whole rotating assembly including dampers and flywheels. Ah, those were the days!
That's a great shop.
*"W0W"*
25 years ago I hauled a roasted 455 olds to the machine shop, the block and one head were toast.
Balanced, reassembled, 0.030 over junkyard block and heads cost me a grand total $1250. Still runs like a top, to this day
@@jamesplotkin4674 It's satisfying as hell, grandpa's vista cruiser engine is a real tire peeler.
Wish I knew a machine shop that dedicated to their work. They are hard to come by at anytime.
As my old farmer neighbor used to say, "Pay attention, I'm gonna learn ya something!" Thanks for the education UT.
I've been learned a few things. I Love them older than me guys.😀😉😎
old motorcycles are my bag, 'but motors is motors'. i like this guy and what he passes on.
You have taught me so much Uncle Tony. Your FACTUAL KNOWLEDGE and willingness to teach people is greatly appreciated and underprized.
Agreed , 100%.
Straight forward mechanical knowledge, with out all the annoying techno crap background music and the terets induced , jiggy hand jive.
One of the best gear heads on the Tube.👍
100% agreed, thanks Uncle Tony !
This episode by Uncle Tony is equal to the best one he's ever done as far as helping out average backyard mechanics and engine builders. He explained things in a simple fashion that anybody could follow.
It's a pleasure to hear how much you can improve just by measuring everything, it's probably what's called BLUEPRINTING
Yes. Sir
Hi Tony! Wish you had premised this by clarifying that the stock Mopar valve train is far more rigid, removing the larger rocker studs, stud girdles and other bandaids that non- Mopar engines use to control deviation/deflection in the valve train. The best ALWAYS go to SHAFT mounted adjustable rockers REGARDLESS if the motor is Chevy or any other. I have built many GM and Chrysler, love both, but as Guru David Vizard said, in the past, Chrysler was at the top of the heap for rod ratio's, deep skirted blocks, rigid valve trains, etc., Which GM adopted much later. that said, I built and still have a sbc 406 In a 1976 Monte Carlo daily driver at 460 HP (shaft mounted adjustable rockers NOT CHEAP) and a solid roller 440 bored and stroked to 512ci in a 1972 New Yorker with 720hp at 6820 rpm daily driver. Both have been reliable but for periodic valve lash adjustments. I am constantly impressed with all the great content you generate for the new generation on how cool IS the old school!
Converting a Chevy to shaft rockers is almost always a waste of money. Unless you're doing super high RPM or extra long-endurance you'll never see it. You'd be better served to put that money into other areas. The magazines always push this expensive must-have fancy part of the month that the average guy will never get a benefit from.
If you have invested in such a thing and feel a benefit, it's money well spent for you!
Shaft rockers are certainly the way to go, for high RPM and performance builds when you can use them. Technology has done wonders for ball stud stuff now, but I still agree with you.
@@67L-88 the early Chevy valvetrain is weak because of it.
@@67L-88 i've been watching last week a ton of videos yapping about how great the 327 mouse motor is, but like you said it will need the valvetrain upgrade for the RPM it is capable of, when they could just buy a Vortec 350 and make the same power at a lower RPM and save money on setting up a shaft rockerarm setup. Even if i had a 327, i'd sell it to a romantic and use the cash on a bigger displacement.
I got a bunch out of that, I already know how to do all this but I never miss the opportunity to just listen to a pro go over things again, it keeps the knowledge fresh. And Tony's teaching is solid!
Yessir, sometimes you get so used to the repetitiveness, you have to have another voice of experience to snap back. UT is great for doing this channel.
I love how you differentiate between "stated reason" and "actual reason" for pre-load.
adjusting pre load is just to remove slack in the hydraulic lifter = all must be about the same .
Back in the 1989’s I helped my dad rebuild the 318 we put in my pickup truck. He said the exact same thing. He also matched the shortest pushrod to the tallest valve stem. He would also use an old lifter and dope the cup with lapping compound and use it to slightly shorten the push rods as needed to get as close to zero lash as he could get. After resurfacing the heads and decking the block he had a local cam shop regrind a stock cam for a low/mid rpm torque motor. A set of headers and a edelbrock torquer intake matched with a 600 cfm Holley carb made that 318 sing. It was a 68 model so it had the high compression heads and a steel crank. My short bed dodge truck with a 4 speed was pretty darned quick and that motor was stout. We didn’t have access to a dyno but from the weight of the truck and the times I turned in the quarter I would guess it hovered around 35-370 horsepower. It was a good street truck and it took down some of the highly touted cars being produced at the time. It was fun!
I came to the comments looking for a reply like this. I rebuilt a gen v Lt with Johnson lifters. Low tolerance preload. I bought shorter push rods to match but naturally they are around .005-.01 difference in preload. This shouldn’t be an issue as they’re all in range but next time I pull the rockers off I believe I will do exactly this. I wish I would’ve kept an old lifter as that’s the only thing an oem gm lifter is good for. I was wondering if anyone had tried this. No videos out there suggest this. While uncle Tony explains it, all my stock push rods were the same length and he doesn’t really touch on “lapping” your pushrods.
It is absolutely nuts how much information you are able to walk through and lay out for adverage Joe to understand.
This seems like a good idea even on a street engine. Take your time, do it right and things will just last longer.
An goes faster lol
Such a good, IMPORTANT video! I've had machinists tell me that the importance of having the valve stems perfectly straight was a wives tale. "Without adjustable valve trains," I said, "you've been working on chevy's, and don't know how to set this up correctly do you?" Needless to say, I know why he kept pushing me so hard to buy a Harland Sharp roller rocker set, and why he already had my factory rocker arms/shafts bolted down! Won't be using him again for sure. Keep up the great work Uncle Tony
You ought to talk to Jim's Family if possible and see if you can get that Road Runner possibly when or if the timing is right.. But it would be cool to try and honor him with the build somehow.. Or heck, build it for his family maybe would be an option.. That would be cool..
On my old 340 I took the rockers out of a pre '68 273 as they had solid cams and stumbled across some 6pack push rods (273 push rods are too long). BUT...that was back in the late '70s.
I'm a beginner, messed around with two-stroke engines alot when I was younger.. but I'm now really interested in engines.. I'm busy fixing up just a normal car nothing special like you are doing but I wanna thank you for being a great tutor! I'm learning really fast!
You explain it just the right way, keep it up,
Thanks!!👍👍👍
Excellent tutorial, Tony. I had always wondered about the differences in preload, lash, and why valves would float in certain scenarios. I was raised on inline Chevys, the early ones had adjustable rockers, but the newer ones had, sometimes quite a bit of built-in preload. I had a good mechanic friend (long gone) who did things similar to how you do. I questioned him once on a procedure he was doing, he told me that I was filling up diapers when he was first doing mechanic work. I never questioned him again! Watch, listen, and learn!
Here in CALIFORNIA Not many people are getting over 5,000 rpm. Between the cops, traffic, and bad drivers, your lucky if you get to your destination alive. Great video and info.
norcal. The top end is different from the bottom end
one good reason not to live there.another is the democrook/socialist government that somehow never gets voted out.
Roller rockers will prevent premature valve guide wear if set up correctly and make more power. The rocker should be centered in the middle of the valve .you can mix and match valves and grind the stems so the straight edge has no gaps even with new parts. Now you have me thinking about valve geometry. How about spring rates and tired valve springs?
Your videos are so educational I've been working on cars for 40 years things never thought about.
This is fascinating!
I had an awful rattle with my 318 once put together. All it’s got is a comp 268h cam, edelbrock intake,carby and hei ignition with a full exhaust. The heads have never been off. Even on comps website it states that one will get valve train noise if not using adjustable rockers. I simply could not afford the adjustable rockers instead sought advice from a Mopar guru and he suggested 80thou lash caps. These were very cheap as opposed to a whole new rocker set and my engine is now quiet as but I do find that it’s reluctant to rev past 5 grand but seeing as it’s mainly a cruiser I’m really not fussed about it. It sure is responsive though. I’ve read good and bad things about lash caps but after nearly three years I’ve not had any dramas.
Check your advance curve
.
My dad's 440 would ping and "break up" around 4500rpm
.
Advance curve change and it ran like a top
did you change the valve springs to the ones Comp recommends for it's camshaft , sounds like you have valve float . Lash caps weren't the right way to do what you did , you change rocker to valve stem geometry by making the valve longer without raising the rockershafts up also. Adjustable pushrods are a cheap alternative to adjustable rockers .
So what you’re saying is that any performance gains go away if you can’t close the valves, and that just makes total sense to me 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Haha, thanks for validating my thoughts from the 80's when I built my 383. Ran great to 5500 rpm then flattened right out. I was in my 20's, money was tight, and adjustable rockers were going to set me back too much to satisfy my hunch. Sold my Roadrunner and went back to school. Wish we had access to guru's like you back then.
I knew where this was going immediately... lol. Been doing pushrod lengths and adjusting valve stem heights since I was rebuilding Briggs & Stratton engines when I was ten. The factory shaft rockers make things a pain in the ass.
Where did chevy get the ball stud rocker design? Hint: It came from the division that had almost all the modern engine design from 1955, and had race only chevy stuff from 1967. Air gap intake, 14 degree valve inclination, dual valve springs, screw in studs, valley pan, fully machined gasket surfaces and combustion chambers, cam retaining plate controlling end play, and they are vastly easier to work on. They also make more torque between idle and 6000rpm than chevys, fords, and mopars with more cubes under the heads.
Isn't it more fun to spend less money and go faster? Using stock garden variety parts, not needing the aftermarket to make good power is a cheap way to go about it.
If someone thinks the sbc is the fast way to cheap power, I have a challenge nobody has wanted to take on. Use a factory head, factory cam/springs, factory intake, stock stroke and rod length. You can replace bearings, rings, oil pump, gaskets but you have to use the stock pistons it came with. Build a 400ci sbc and we will see who makes more power for less money. I have a car we can put it in too, same vehicle, gears, transmission, stall, everything. Its a 72 Ventura, so bring some Nova headers.
I have an early 1970s vintage 400 short block on a stand that has never been apart. Its getting rings, bearings, oil pump, and a set of untouched 1969 garden variety D port heads and intake from the big cars. A 1968-70 cam that came in 4 barrel engines will move the valves. I got that engine for $50 and the heads with the intake for $200. I have people give me sbc junk all the time.
If I can find someone to drive another truck and pull the other trailer, I will bring the Ventura to NNN. Used factory stuff vs used factory stuff.
I'm confused, because the "hint" ya gave states "the division that had most of the modern designs from 1955, AND HAD RACE ONLY CHEVY STUFF FROM 1967".......end quote.....but then later in your comment, ya say "they also make more torque from idle to 6000 rpm than Chevy's, Fords, and Mopar's"......end quote. Call me stupid, but you're saying "they had race only CHEVY stuff from 1967"........yet ya later on say: "they make more torque than Chevy's, Ford's, and Mopar's". So help me out here........you're driving me crazy trying to figure out what the hell you're hinting at. Thanks in advance for your answer and no disrespect meant. ( I know ya didn't mention Buick, Olds, Pontiac, so I'm assuming it must be one of those? )
@@howabouthetruth2157 It was race only stuff on the sbc.. but the Pontiac had it from the start, or after 67 e.g. 14 degree heads and screw in studs... among other things. Buick had shaft rockers like the mopars. Olds had a strange aluminum strap thing between the rockers for each cylinder. Fords had shafts, pedestals, and ball studs, depending on the engine, and how long ago it was built.
@@SweatyFatGuy Ok, thanks for that. But on another point, are ya saying you can build a Pontiac to make as much or more power than the SBC with minimal funds/factory parts? That's what I'm assuming.
@@howabouthetruth2157 yup. I can make it faster with a Pontiac for less money, and far more drivable.
@@SweatyFatGuy I had an uncle back in the 60's & 70's who always owned & hot rodded Pontiac's. That's all he would build, own, and street race. I knew the answer had to be either Pontiac, Buick, or Old's.......but ya confused me with the "race only Chevy stuff"......lol. Thanks again & take care.
And I thought I was the only one that figured that out. Switching push rods with different height valves. Good video Tony.
Some people may call the stock parts “junk” but they were specifically engineered to run perfectly reliable with them. I love how Tony caters to the average guy out there with average means to do this which is the most expensive hobby you can possibly have! Its the most expensive and time consuming hobby to have and I love seeing how much you can improve on the quality stock parts! I’m like a personality double of tony but im only 36 years old! This is why i love this channel!
I think he was saying "junk" in a fond sort of way...not like actual junk...but like "good old stuff" that can still be made to work.
This is gonna be a good one. Sadly I can't apply right now because I need a new starter haha. Love your stuff UTG. My Toronado ran better and better the more I learned from you.
Ok, you can jump deep into the rabbit hole very quickly. That make more sense then all the explanations I had heard in my life time. Thanks for sharing.
This is why i loved small block chevys as a kid: run it with the valve covers off, oil deflector clips over the push rods, and tighten the rocker nuts one by one until the ticking stops, then a quarter turn more. When i first took the valve covers off a 318 i was stupified and ignorant and just didn't get it. Even the shims on a cosworth vega made sense, but Chryslers just seemed hokey.
Hokey indeed
Every family needs an "Uncle Tony."
It's awesome to see tech of this depth touched on, great video as always!
Man, you're making me want to go to my dad's garage and tear my spare motor apart and measure all this stuff!
I'm working with 3800 Series II motors, but so much of what you teach on here is universal! I'm seriously considering blueprinting my other motor. I'm not planning on doing any serious racing with it, but I want it to be as smooth as my dad's BMW I6!
It never will be. Nice motors but won't be as smooth as the bm.
Love those engines I had a supercharger one in a Buick park avenue ultra best car I’ve ever owned
Wanting to build my 97 gtp
3.8 supercharged soon.
@@jonbovideadoralive love the screenname! I'm running an '01 GT. Trying to decide if the rust damage is salvageable. Hit the Grand Prix Forums, if you haven't yet.
@@hayden6056 you're probably right
Tony this content is epic - nothing else like it anywhere. So thankful you keep putting it out.
Amazing how you can explain complicated stuff and make it understandable ! Thanks Tony !
No chance I'll ever tear apart another motor but I really enjoy your instruction because I do know things but I like to know WHY they are as they are. Thank you.
Very good video ! Great explanation of what REALLY goes on inside a valvetrain and what MUST be checked when building or modifying ANY engine !
FE's are a bugger at this. Adjustable push rods almost a must 🙃
I've done a couple of builds for people that wanted to stay with the stamped steel rockers and instead used adjustable pushrods to set lifter preload the same on every rocker.
Your explanations and tricks are the best. To the point and with enough context to know the reasons why stuff was done particular way. I knew the concept but getting the practical guide how to work around the limitation of factory components is gold. CNC rockers are cool but getting 7/8 there with somewhat crappy factory stuff is great.
The best part about some of uncle Tonys videos is when he explains something its like " well no shit you should do that" then I think about it and, yeah I've never done that.
Im 60 and an old school mech. I enjoy the videos, and the ultra-gear head info you share Tony. I can build engines stock, but never hi pro. LOL I am a musician who loves old iron. Keep em coming .
Saved to a playlist.
Solid gold, valuable methodical insight.
Thanks for another great lesson!
understanding the basics and fundamentals of an ICE is the foundation for building a good motor.
u just gave us a good intro to the process of blueprinting top end gear.
u bring back old school methods to building on a budget.
good stuff..
so 20 years ago i was building up a 360 .... it ran pretty good , but then i got a set of heads off of a 340 with big valves , had a machine shop work them over and cut them down .... the owner said to make sure there was a 100 thou preload on the lifters .... this ended up being a sour running motor and i just realized why ..... thank you very much Tony
Love your videos man!!! Working on getting this 5.9 magnum in my 92 hardbody
I really appreciated the "detailing" ideas in the valve train setup (i.e. long stem to short pushrod). That IS the cool stuff. Also when decking to not cause too much preload to lifters . . Thank you Tony. Always good stuff.
Good video. I didn't know that factory rocker shafts hadn't worked that out, but I did know they didn't rev as high. On the other hand, I have only had valve train blow ups on ball stud type engines. I understood the two phenomena as a 'pick your poison' type of thing.
Great explanation as always UT! 💪🏻
I did a very similar budget home build on my Holden 308 motor (common old Aussie donk from the 60s through to the late 90s)
A lot of people called me crazy for wanting to retain the factory light weight stamped rocker mounts / arms - but I'd personally seen very high rpm capability and reliability on a properly setup engine.
0 decked it, took a lot off the heads and did a home-style port and polish job with a close to 0 lash setup on the valve train. A good friend (ex race engine builder) that helped me tune it all up after it was said and done said it was the quickest of the particular cam / head / intake / exhaust combination he'd ever driven. I always put it down to the multitude of extra hours setting it up and getting everything fine tuned rather than just bolting it together and calling it a day.
Cheers!
Never late in a 308
nice explanation! You clearly have the skills! Keep the videos coming
Awesome info, UT.
Doing great on the solo recordo too. Thanks for sharing!
Great information Uncle Tony! Thanks for sharing the knowledge and keep it up!
Great video Tony, once again you show how all the little details add up and if overlooked, can have negative results.
Great video just got my 390 heads back from machine shop notice the valves are slightly different heights. You cleared this up !! You are very clear on your teaching!
My 318 poly came factory with adjustable rockers. No wonder it runs so good! 😃
My 59 326 poly is hydraulic 1 year only engine wish it was adjustable rocker gear
I spent hours measuring rockers and valvetrain stuff in my youth. We ran 351 Clevelands in the 70s at dirt tracks, and they have what Ford calls "positive stop" rockers from the factory, on everything but the HIPO stuff. We ran the CJ and Boss stuff, but there was a lot of differences even in the Harland Sharp stuff we used a lot. That was just part of what you had for the times. To this day, I still use the same techniques and practices I learned in my pre teen years. It works.
I am starting a freshened up 260 small block Ford next Monday. Thank you for expanding my understanding of things I have taken for granted.
Beautiful! I absolutely love the nitty gritty detail you go into. This uber technical stuff is right up my alley, event though I never have and probably never will build an engine.
Love all the information you give out UT. I especially liked when you said, "Ya gotta be nuts to do this stuff!" I Immediately thought of an old boss who first hired me in a race engine shop, Dick Arons.
You are without a doubt, and I mean this is the least creepy way possible but you are the mechanical uncle I never had. Learned so much from these videos
I just love your mind keep up the good info. With your help my 273 revs happy now.
I was pondering rocker ratios and the resultant valve lifts for my SBC, and I learned that pushrod length is directly related to the rocker ratio. Standard SBC 1.5 rockers can actually be made to produce either higher or lower rocker ratios, by changing the pushrod length. There are limits to this, but there _is_ a useful range of adjustment. An interesting detail is that the actual ratio varies with lift, because the end of the rocker arm is describing an arc.
Yeah but you should not be messing with that. Once the engine is put together (not including Pushrods), you then measure for the pushrods you need.
There is only 1 proper pushrod size per valve.
You then take an average of the the lengths and then buy the set (to keep the cost down). Or buy 2 half sets, if you basically have 2 averages for your engine (raises the price) or if your engine is very far off, valve to valve, you buy individual rods per valve.
huh ? 😂
Wow, this video really taught me some stuff. This goes inline with blueprinting. I'm saving this one.
Great information build my frist engine at 17 all like working on engines took mechanic class at 17 in 1979. Still doing it in joy you channel.
Excellent video! Love these deep dives.
You confirmed my thoughts on what was going on a AMC engine to a Jeep that I have. I enjoyed the video and thanks for making this.
What a clear vision you have young man! God Bless you!
Wow, great information. Thanks Tony! Your so right every chevy guy always talks trash on mopar valvetrain. Thanks for clearing this up for me. Chrysler had the best engineering to keep them fast and dependable and affordable.
Great info. I will keep this in mind when I build a engine.
I am learning a lot watching your video Tony. Thank you very much!
My dad showed me a lot of tricks growing up and this is really detailed in how he had his 70 rt challenger 383 Cid running back before I was born
That was probably the best, most understandable explanation I've heard on how all those dimensions work (or don't work) together in a valvetrain! Thanks so much Uncle Tony! 😃
Your knowledge and presentations are priceless
I used to be a heavy line tech for Lincoln/Mercury, Chrysler/Jeep/Eagle, Pontiac/Oldsmobile, & even Suzuki way back in the day 30 - 40 years ago - & I am learning so much from your videos. Very enjoyable - thx.
For sure brother, we have the same mind about doing our best with the stuff we have at hand. Good work!
I just rewatched this video for the second time, at least a year after it was first posted, and I’m telling you I’m impressed with the degree you’ve thought this through, this is really meaty tech at its finest. Anyone who watches it, and fore goes the new adjustable rocker arms for your bucks down method, will come away with a far better understanding of what they are dealing with.
Just a great great video, you are the best Tony ! You motivate and inspire us 👍
Hey Tony, I know you know but your explanations are so easy to understand & comprehend. If they would pay you enough, you would be a great teach in a engine classroom. Thanks again for the video!
In high school in the 70's I had a power mechanics teacher who always said that after rebuilding an engine if it's done right it should start by the 3rd spin of the engine. I've found this to be true. UT would be a great shop teacher.
Great content. Keeping the flame burning. Subscribed.
Thanks a lot for all your shared detailed insights!
Outstanding explanation and video Tony
Glad y'all survived ..
Also thanks for the Schooling BOSS...
@∅
I miss the junkyards being full of 273s. 284-484 purple cam and 273 valve gear in an X motor. YEEHAW
This is an issue I brought up with the machine I used for my '65 383 magnum virgin. He has a friend that does high end motors he got in touch with. I told I using the stock rocker shaft and push rods. With the springs that go with the cam they set the spring height that was called for, and no grinding needed for the inner spring. Neither of them had ever seen an original hp mopar engine untouched. It will be grumpy.
A interesting video, tour car racing back in the 70 and 80 in Australia I can see the advantage of having factory support the only parts were mainly production parts per. rules.
So boxs of valve , pushrod, pistons, conrods
ECT. pick the longest, lightest, shortest must have been invaluable !
Christopher from Down Under
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Good Video Tony. This is why I own about 4 sets of 273 adjustable rockers. I bought a record setting 360 crate engine years ago. It’s what that engine builder used. Can’t beat’em.
Spot on man. Good stuff. Good stuff. This why I bought oversized mm size orifice lifters for my twin turbski
Lifters, and the valve train in general, have always fascinated me,
and now I know why
Especially changing cams or regrinds you shim on some engines file slightly the factory rocker pivots on others to get it to satisfactory or zero. If you don't you get a noisy valve train too, this is excellent video I like the pushrod length trick thank you
I just ordered a pushrod length checker from summit. I converted the AMC bridge type rocker to the Chevy style. Ordered Harland sharp rockers also .
Uncle Tony: Enjoy your show very much, I'm a Ford Guy but I enjoy learning about the Mopars as well. Keep up the good work.
Great video Tony I found a set of isky rocker arms back in 1990 I'm still running them they work great I bought for $100 it was one of my best inexpensive purchases
Great video Uncle Tony!
Excellent explanation!!!!! Keep up the good work!!!!!!
Wanted to say Great video Back in the early 80 when I was getting into performance build ups top of the engine stuff and a buddy mine wanted to me to put a cam in his Cutlass . i was use to Chevy small block. I did the cam break in but it had rocker noise i thought it was the lifter weren't pumping up. ithey we're none adjustable the cam wasn't that big I guess what I'm saying is you made me think about that particular motor it was a 455 I remember calling crane cans up about it they said that everything should have been fine
Great information. Thank you for a secret or an engine assembly I never thought about. Having experience valve float in my old 1960 Impala 348 ci. I need this information in 1973.
GREAT VIDEO UNCLE TONY 👍Thank you so much!!! I learned a lot.
Great video Tony you are the true gearhead monk!
I gotta say. Tony .. I wish I was half as good as you at explaining and teaching . The service you are doing for the young.. lol.. 30 year olds and younger is absolutely awesome.. I have worn many hats in my life.. farmer, motorcycle guy, car guy, dad, cop , now a part time school cop ( at a tech center) .. the kids at the school watch your videos and are like little sponges. Many times on my own projects I have looked up what you have suggested and applied what you have taught.. many times you have covered topics that reminded me of how my elders handled something ( I’m 53 so you only have a few more years on me).. keep up the good work.. and… be glad you left NYS!!!
Another awesome video! Thanks Tony