No pretentiousness, no clean hands, no looking down on the young guys. Just grit, knowledge and telling it the way it is and making sure that its accessible to everyone. Respect Tony.
@@nimwit0 having been called a "know it all" in the past I can safely there's a difference between actually knowing a specific topic and being a "know it all." UTG supports his arguments, you, on the other hand, do not. Failure to support one's arguments is a good sign of a "know it all." Yes, UTG kinda pulls a bait and switch with a GM LS vs a Chrysler LA but he's actually showing the interchangeability between a Dodge Magnum and a Chrysler LA to make a better air pump as close as possible to a GM LS. That you missed this point shows who the "know it all" actually is. Don't come at me. I'm a Ford fan boy who's honest enough to admit Ford tends to miss the point about an engine being a glorified air pump first and a torque and/or horse power generator second, (yes torque and HP are a byproduct of moving as much air as possible from intake to exhaust with as little resistance as possible).
How does that old saying go? Your cook shouldn't be thin, your fishing guide should know the differences between fresh and salt water and if your mechanic is spotless by the end of the day...double check his work.
I have 4 magnum head from 318s one engine had cracks in every cylinder. The other engine had 2 cracks per head. Don't think it would make a difference as I didn't notice them un until I lapped the the valves and seats. They are very minor looking cracks.
Thank you Tony, I know I have been bugging you for almost a year to do a side by side comparrison of an LA and Magnum. It took me about 3 months of research to figure out the differences, You reach alot more people, and have so much knowledge, that I am positive you have just helped a few hundred people out with this comparison! Again thank you! 👍😁
@@HighlanderNorth1😅😂 Yeah, everyone in the hotrod market wants to mess with 4 cams. Reality is that when it comes to rebuilding your own engines Ford is the WORST of the 3 since they went to 4 cams, twin turbos, etc
5.9 Magnums make awesome power for cheap! Mine just pushed my 68 Satellite daily driver to 8.61 in the eighth with a little 600 CFM gas mileage carb, a 904 automatic with the stock converter and 3.55 gears! The only non stock stuff inside my engine is a Hughes cam and valve spring kit and a Cloyes timing set. My friends 56 Chevy with a 350, 4 speed and 5.13 gear runs high 8's/low 9's and a 650 horsepower 7 speed supercharged 2018 Z06 Corvette usually runs around 8.20 so I'm in the same ballpark as a lot of badass cars with a very mild and streetable combo.
@@kennywhiddon1497 Yes roughly according to the conversion chart. It says some cars may be quicker or slower though so it could likely be anywhere from 13.20 to 13.60
AND YOU CAN DO IT WITH JUNKYARD PARTS,thats the amazing ability of a magnum engine,just remember the magnum engines and the new hemi's, the valve springs are junk right out of the box,208 wide open pressure on a valve spring is a joke,need 125 to 135 on the seat and 280 to 335 for serious revs,the magnum 360's are available all the time for less that 300 for a complete core,904's can now be built to hold the power with space age materials[KEVLAR,KOLENE STEELS RED LINED CLUTCHES,AND STRONGER SPRAGS AND BANDS,STAB IT AND STEER--------------TIMING CHAINS CHECK THEM EVERY 65-85 K MILES,mopar timing components are junk after 65 thousand hard miles,good thing they're cheap
I'm mostly a Chevy guy. And I despise the LS. I'm into the original cast iron small blocks. With cast iron heads. I built dozens of them. I've raced them, I've built them for hot rods and daily drivers. Built right, an old school small block Chevy can make way more power than you might think, for those that don't actually know. Also, built right, and properly maintained, they can last practically forever as a daily driver engine. There is a reason the aftermarket is still making them.
Great explanation uncle Tony. Actually, better than great! I am always amazed at your memory and the knowledge you have retained. A walking Mopar encyclopedia! Thanks for the video.
Years ago one of the car magazines ordered a Mopar performance 360 that had a rather hot cam. They stuffed it in a four door valiant they nicknamed, "the brick". With headers, huge carb, hot ignition and four speed trans, they were running it on a track with lots of curves and one fairly long straightaway and they were keeping up with BMW's and vettes. But they did a major job on the brakes and suspension. Can't remember what all they did but the brakes were huge ones from what would go on a cop car. If I remember correctly that crate 360 cube engine was rated at 380 HP and 390 torque. But the torque came on strong at low rpm and carried all the way to 6000 before dropping off. It would be a blast to build a 360 magnum to those specs, and stuff it in a Dodge Dart or Valiant and go street racing. Thinking back long and hard, I believe it was a Mopar Performance magazine article. Had to laugh at, "the brick". Comparing it to sleek, streamlined Vettes and BMWs it really was shaped like a brick. LOL I bet it thoroughly pissed off some guys to have that "brick" keep up with them.
I've been running a LA roller cam long block using the 1986 2bbl factory fuel system & external electric fuel pump. Been daily driving/utility usage and does a great great job still.
I've got a magnum 5.2 I've been thinking about upgrading. We need more input from the pros like you on what our options are.. you know, mild upgrades on up to major mods.. I really think that would be an awesome series that so many of us would appreciate! Either way, I love your channel, keep up the awesome content!
I'm not a pro by any means but I've done a couple Magnum builds and I'm currently doing a stroked 360 LA for my drag car. My first step to upgrading the magnums has always been a bigger cam, new lifters and pushrods, and headers. This will at least get you the sound and attitude of a somewhat "built" V8. Next would be an inspection of the heads, magnum heads are nutorious for cracking and as a general rule of thumb it's always good to take them off and inspect them. If there's no cracks great! Now you just need to decide if you want to clean up the original heads or go with a new set. Me personally I'd go with a set of aluminum heads that have the ability to bolt on an LA style intake because there's so many more options for an LA as far as intakes go. But this gives you the option to swap a 4bbl carb on it, you could also use the original throttle body with a 4bbl to 2bbl adaptor or go all out and do a modern efi system. All depends on cost and what you'll use the engine for and your goals for it. And last but not least you have your bottom end, the factory bottom ends aren't bad in these engines at all, but if you're looking to raise your compression ratio, add more cubes or plan on using a power adder, a new rotating assembly would be in your best intrest. Hope this helps some! Goodluck with the build!
Richard Holdener is doing a series on the 360 right now, I know it's not a 318 but most of what he says and does to make power will still apply to it, the power gains may just be a little lesser on the smaller engine
Junkyard magnum heads are ok if you're on a tight budget. I went with EQ Magnum heads for my kids 360. Stock valve sizes, spring upgrade, some bowl work and gasket matching. Topped it off with a home ported Performer RPM intake being fed by a Performer carb (AFB clone). Last year he put it on a chassis dyno and it made 365 HP and 415 torque at the wheels. I'm a firm believer in the Magnum style head. BTW you can purchase EQ heads with the old LA style intake manifold bolt pattern.
I'm a Kiwi, still living in NZ. I'm also an Old's guy, by accident really as I ended up buying a nice '65 Cutlass 10 years ago now. I still enjoy your Mopar videos as you impart great info on video even though it probably won't be relevant to me. Cheers
Great information again Tony! makes me wish I was still in the hot-rod, race engine shops. As a machinist I loved to hone cylinders and line hone engine blocks just as close I could! I'm old now, retired but I still would love to do it all over again...
I can’t put into words how helpful this video was for me I just got a junkyard 5.9 magnum to build for my 1990 Dakota that I just put a custom built frame under that I plan on running some hard tire no prep drag racing with and a little street cruising. I have a fully forged and balanced scat stroker kit on the way for it and I gotta get it stripped down to the block this weekend to send to the machine shop to get bore .030 over, then I ordered a set of trick flow aluminum heads for it and a trick flow intake manifold. Now I plan on running it carbureted because the simplicity of it. Then I plan on running nitrous on it at the track but I don’t know how big of a shot yet because I’ve personally never dealt with nitrous but I have a couple buddy’s that have used nitrous since they first started drag racing and once the engine is in the truck and running they will help me with that decision.
Very good and very thorough video --- one thing you forgot to mention: if you're going to use stock rocker arms the LA rocker arms are 1.5 ratio and stock Magnum rocker arms are 1.6 ratio which would likely be a consideration when selecting a camshaft
5.2 & 5.9 Magnum heads are sliiiiiightly different. There is approx. 1/10" height difference in intake ports between the two, and the 5.9 ports are also slightly wider. There are two casting numbers too...
Hi Tony! In 1978 I took the head off a 318 in a 69 dodge polara and left the intake and exhaust manifolds on to change the head gasket and it worked. I was 17 and dumb, desperate ,and wild to get on the road I guess. That's my story and sticking to it.
I put a 95 360 in my 78 truck. Has stock Chrysler ignition, M1 intake, and edelbrock on top. Kept the 46rh that was attached to the magnum but wired the od and lockup to two switches. Took the 9.25 rear and had to weld new spring perches because the 78 is a bit more narrow.
I have an 87 2wd Ramcharger that I transplanted the 5.2 in. I have the Edelbrock RPM intake with a Street Demon on top. I used the Magnum front drive. Everything fits good. Bolted to the 904 with one TQ hole slightly elongated. The motor had 200,000 miles on it. When I pulled the heads, all looked good, so I bolted it up! No other changes, really. Runs really good. I used a small-cap HEI distro and remote coil from Assault racing for spark. Thanks, Uncle Tony!
Im working on some magnum heads right now. Doing some cleaning up work and valve relief no porting or polishing just smoothing things over. 1st head i done no cracks, 2nd head, watch this video took the 2nd head apart and BAM! flipping crack. Im trusting that your right that the crack doesnt affect the valve. Other wise ill have to tear down some other engines for the head off them.
When using retro hydraulic lifters you will probably have to open up the holes where the push rods go thru the head to keep them from contacting inside the tube.
Excellent video. On the LA heads, if you strip an intake bolt you can use a longer bolt and with the valve cover off you can put a nut on the longer bolt that will extend into the rocker area of head. I had to do it before.
They also made "fast burn" heads for LA motors. The valves were small, but that can be changed. The set I put on my 318 woke that little mill up quite nicely.
Thanks Tony. I hope that ends a lot of confusion people have had about the difference between the LA and Magnum blocks. So close but so different. Like a 170 and a 225.
Honestly I will be humble and modest when I say even as a hard-core mopar guy, the LS engines are the ultimate V8 engines. The power and reliability of all of them has just amazed me. I mean really even the old LA and magnums can't compete without putting more money into it then you would an ls for sub par performance
I've always wondered at the lack of love for the Magnum, I always placed it between the Vortec 5.0/5.7 and the LT1/L99 in evolutionary terms, I think the stock Magnum intake is a few steps ahead of the Vortec weirdness.
That was fantastic. I am not building a hot rod, but I do work on my own cars and owned an early Magnum in a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee I had. I bought it burning oil, fearing a rebuild would be necessary, but just replaced valve cover gaskets and valve stem seals/guides, voila, clean exhaust. Easiest fix I ever did on an engine. I liked the magnum, but I love the Hemi in my Challenger.
I'll second the running on the cracked heads I built a healthy magnum for my 98 1500 and pulled heads off of 6 engines all were cracked so I took the ones that had the fewest and ran them still running strong to this day
Tony, I've always wondered if the late hemi heads could be used on the LA blocks. I know the bore spacing is the same, but how about head bolt pattern? Then I'm sure the valve train would be a can of worms, along with an intake. Could you do a late hemi vs LA engine comparison? And the LA's weird 59 degree lifter angle, could you use that to an advantage to use any of the early small block hemi heads on an LA?
I have a 71 318 la block with the 80s heads, stock cam from 1969, cast crank and a 4 barrel intake with an edelbrock 600cfm carb, thing starts better than a new car
Thank you Sir for running this, it answers a lot of questions for me. For my 80 D150 I built an 88 360 roller engine . I had already rebuilt the 80 heads and tried to use them on the 88. The pushrods dragged on the openings where they pass through going into the block. Fortunately I was able to sell these heads for a decent price right away and got busy and cut the seats and valve faces on the 88 roller heads.
My 1970 340 heads have 2.02 intake1.60 exhaust factory installed. The head looks like a ordinary early 360 head casting, but no air injector passages. The valve pockets under the seat right down to the bowl were shaped with a throat cutter at the factory. I never fully ported these heads, only gasket matched and blended. The hyd flat cam has about .550 lift and really works good with the near stock heads. I built the motor when I was a teen in the mid 80s, it's had cam, intake, exhaust changes since then, that's all. It is a great engine, 318 and 360 LA motors also are such tough motors!
My brother had a 1970 340 Dart Swinger 340. I had/have a 71 Demon 340. We bought them new in 70 and 71. They both had the newer 360 casting with 2.02 intakes and 1.60 exhaust. I even had Dodge pull one head on my car to prove it was the right head! They finally convinced me as I was there when they tore down my engine. Funny thing was the dealer mechanics didn't even know they started using that casting in 1970.LOL! I went on to race my cars in Super Stock and did quite well including setting my class record.
This is the video I've been waiting over a year for. I'm building a 5.9 Magnum to install in my '85 W150. Picked up a decent virgin core but the heads had those very cracks. Nobody could tell me definitively whether the cracks were benign or death sentences and I was about to pay for a pressure test. Not intere$ted in aftermarket heads for my truck if I don't need them and I was suspicious that the cracks were N.B.D. Uncle Tony says "Run 'em" and that's good enough for me. Also, I went with KB107 slugs (0.020" over) which should get me closer to zero deck than the stock ones that were 0.050"+ down. Just got it back from balancing. Now to drill the heads for my Performer spread bore and Thermoquad. Using OEM single pickup distributor and stock LA ignition. Just a work truck that covers a lot of highway so no idea what cam I'll use yet?
Uh Ohh, you forgot a big one. NO PROVISION for a mechanical fuel pump on the Magnum blocks. If anyone wants to swap a magnum and run a carb; look for one from a dead Jeep Grand Cherokee. The reason is the belt driven accessories are more compact. The ones from trucks and vans take up more room. When I did my swap the only aftermarket intake manifold available was a MoPar M1. You can get an Edelbrock now a days, maybe others. Aftermarket intakes have shorter runners and smaller plenum areas than the OEM "barrel" intake manifold. A cam more suitable cam for this combo needs to be selected. The Magnum has no heat riser so get an carb with an electric choke. Had good luck with a Eddy 1406. I was able to get mine dialed in on cold start to driving in less than a minute. You have to dial in a summer and winter adjustment but once you have that down you are fine.
I pulled a Magnum out of a 1995 Ram and when I took the heads off the block, it had the oil holes from the factory, as I was looking to run my 2.02 J heads on it.
TONY! You missed, early TBI magnum blocks (or as you called (LA Roller) are drilled to oil the rockers. These are the blocks to have. Also 5.2 magnum oil pan same as 5.9. 360 style. And the cam snout. Great Video!
We had one Magnum valve seat crack spread out across the chamber into water and start eating coolant at an impressive rate. It was bolted to a roller cam 360 block for a couple years. That's a grand total of one, out of maybe a dozen sets of Magnum heads I've had or worked with, maybe 70% of which had cracks. But it is definitely at least possible.
Things are getting better for the newest Hemi. It's starting to get some more serious aftermarket support. It's unlikely to ever catch up to the LS in terms of what you can buy at any given price point and expect to make the most reliable power. The LS picked up the batton in this race handed off by the original SBC that just DOMINATED and is running away with it once again.
It's funny because LS heads are like a windsor and cleveland hand a baby. Lol. You can even take LS heads cut one cylinder off each and mount them to a ford 300 6.
Tony - From memory when I did the swap down under in NZ the truck boss needs to be cut off with a grinder to gain header clearance and a knob of iron on the block needs grinding off to clear the starter if your using a 904/727 trans, I used a beefed up 904 on my one! You guys in the USA got it sooooo good, do you know how many junk yard 360 and 5.7 hemi's there are in NZ, yeah you guessed it ZERO!!!! If was given a 360 mag in the USA, by the time I got it here it would owe about $1200 to $1500!! Thanks Bruce from NZ
Ive got the best of both worlds sitting in storage. A late 92-93 360. "308" heads, with a factory roller cam, including the lifter retention "spyder". Mine also has a factory windage tray. Another sweet piece is the timing chain cover, which eliminates the mount for the mechanical fuel pump. Nice if you are running an electric pump only
thanks for the cracked heads explanation. now i will keep my engine as i liked very much the roller cam idea. As a canadian i tried to find/buy the engine quest heads that is said to be a better flowing recast head than the crack prone mopar head. now i just got to find a car to put it in as the one that was supposed to have it in is now a 440+ 6 pack.
Thanks for the description of the difference between the LA and the Magnum . I was thinking about going to the Magnum. I currently have a mild built 1974 LA 360. Forged pistons and rings gapped for nitrous. Still have the stock crankshaft but I'm running studs on the main caps and rods. I put some procomp aluminum heads with roller rockers on it. 10.5 to 1 compression. Run a 250 shot. I was thinking about building a newer stroked 408 combo. All forged rotating assembly. And a roller camshaft. I was told that the 73-74 360 block is great but is it better then the magnum with the 408 setup.
I've had multiple Magnums go well over 300,000 miles in Ram wagons,and were still running when sold. Never even needed a starter. Fantastic motors. Transmission and fuel pump not so much.
LOVE the videos, sir! I do have one correction though; many people think the 5.9 and 5.2 used the same heads; not entirely true. The 5.2 "Magnum"s supposedly all came with 53020466 castings. These (53020466 castings) were supposedly cast in the U.S., while 5.9 "Magnum"s supposedly all came with the 53006671 castings (which were reportedly all cast in Mexico; and the quality difference really shows if you look at enough of these heads like I do..... the "0466" heads are just a lot "cleaner" looking than the "6671" heads). Now onto the differences- If you look at these two castings side by side and from all angles, you most likely will not see any differences. But if you look closer, you will see that the 6671 heads (which came on the 5.9s) have intake ports that are roughly 1/10 of an inch TALLER than the ones on the 0466 (5.2) heads. These measurements are consistent, head to head and casting to casting. Everything else on the two castings is pretty much the same. I do not know if this was intentional or not (makes no sense, as I do believe the gaskets and even intake plenums are the same between the two castings), but if you multiply that 1/10 of an inch of material times 8 intake ports/cylinders, you get a (potentially) fairly substantial airflow difference between the two castings... Now I have no idea whether or not there is a bottleneck created by either the intake gasket and/or the intake manifolds, but I do know that (supposedly), the above information on the two castings is 100% correct. The strange part is supposedly only one of these castings has been available (in the past) as a replacement head from the Mopar parts counters...so maybe Chrysler had intended on doing something proper by having bigger ports on the bigger engine and smaller ports on the smaller engine, but then scrapped that whole idea as a cost saving measure (that, or the actual performance numbers were negligible, which is more likely). I've never measured the Magnum V10 ports, but I would imagine they are the same size as the 6671s....And you are DEAD accurate with the Crack info.!! We actually cut into a Magnum head once (right where it cracks), and you can literally go more than 3/4" down before hitting water....Anyway, GREAT videos!!!
From 1996 - 2000 they Were made in New Haven Foundry Michigan, I know because I poured them we were one If not the last Foundries that poured iron with hand ladles We did Magnums, 318 - 360 use the same heads, We did V10 Magnums & also the Dart 454 Iron Eagle heads, Far as them having cracks the Mixer dumped the metals meaning silicone, graphite, for the other one it was 3. The mixing process was done by hand mix this mix that, Sometimes we had a whole skid of scrap Magnum heads, overall poor quality control, they use to cut them in half to find out they were scrap
You stated that the cracks on the Magnum heads don’t cause a problem. Wrong ! Those cracks caused all sorts of misfires and when OBD2 came alive lots and lots of misfire codes. We were doing 2 to 3 sets of Magnum heads a week under warranty at the dealership. As per out Mopar tech reps those cracks caused coolant steam in the combustion chamber and put out the spark/flame. Now maybe on a street carbureted vehicle or race care you may not even notice. The computer would.
I have never been a fan of oil filled pushrods, I think it makes them much heavier than people realize and I have never seen anyone weigh the assembly and include the oil . I think the factory LA valvetrain is very light and robust if not as adjustable as a comparable small block chebby
density of motor oil is 0.0313 lb/in^3. a 5/16", .065" wall, 7.5" long pushrod leaves a volume of .1962 cubic inches for oil to fill. the weight of the oil will add .00614 lbs, or .0798 ounces to the weight of the pushrod , or less than 2.8 grams. not sure what the weight of a 5/16" .065 wall pushrod is with the ball ends, but the volume of a 5/16", .065" wall cylinder 7.5" long times the density of steel yields 1.73 ounces, so you're looking at going up to 1.81 oz with the oil in it.
Tony - I don't know why but the cam bearing between a LA and Magnum are a different widths and I called up Dura bond and they didn't know why they were different widths. Do you as I had 360 LA cam bearings and I wanted to use them in my Magnum, well they are in there and its working, maybe more surface area for higher loading with the heavier springs?? Look them up PD-16 vs PD-25, 2 different part numbers. Thanks Bruce from NZ
I love the 318. Had one in my family hand me down 1980 Chrysler Lebaron. Wish i kept that car. Young and dumb, cash for clunkers ended a lot of vehicles. I bought an 05 Suburban Z71 4x4 in 2022 for just $2,300 and it just runs. Will completely build it later. It is rolling towards 400k miles. I was so happy with the 05 burb, i jumped on an 07 Yukon 4x4 with the dreadful AFM that has 230k miles and i paid $2,500 for it. I want to buy an 98-99 Durango with the 5.2L, but the mpg is terrible compared to the mpg i get in the much bigger Suburban. Any idea why that is? New Subscriber. God Bless you and your family.
There is a subtle difference on the oil filter plate too. They look the same but the magnum plate is more shallow. If you use the 90 degree adapter the internal gasket won’t be thick enough to seal. If you use a magnum plate on the la block it won’t seal. You can also buy magnum heads that are predrilled will la intake bolt holes.
I read in some magazine probably over 2 decades ago the Magnum heads crack and it absolutely is a non issue. Gotta give credit to the effective and efficient Magnum head design to AMC. Its what AMC had and Dodge bought them and their tech. When the Dakota came with the all new 318 "Magnum" rated at 220 hp in 1992 many were taken back how quick the new 318 was. It ran the 1/4 quicker than the on paper rating would suggest. The 454 SS Chevy muscle truck was easily dusted off by the Dakota and its improved 318.
Funny that so many people want to use LA heads on a magnum... Magnum heads can be drilled for both intake patterns. Magnum valve covers are less prone to leaks. Magnum heads make more power stock for stock. After market magnum heads like r/t and engine quest are even better... Then send them to hughes for porting and make serious power. Bonus: roller rockers for ford or chevy will work on magnum heads. I have r/t heads with hughes stg2 cnc porting and bigger valves. I'll never run L.A. heads again.
You're awesome. Seriously. That was the best time wasted. Learned a tonne, and wasn't bored. Straight forward and informative. I cant wait to watch some more videos and learn some more. Maybe one day i'll actually build something when I win the lottery and you will be the reason it works! Cheers mate!
Great info Uncle Tony! Glad you are paying some attention to the Magnum engines. Looking forward to more info on them. Very interesting that Chrysler reached back and used the AMC V8 rocker design for the Magnum.
I have a 1986 318 roller motor in my 73 dart swinger. With the cams you have to decide if you ever want to run a mechanical fuel pump or not because the magnum cams have a shorter snout.
Michael Edge, You can get an adaptor kit for magnum short nose cams that has the eccentric so you can run a mechanical fuel pump. Timing chain cover and water pump has to be changed to an LA style. ( LA waterpumps turn in the opposite direction as a magnum)
I needed this video! I have a Magnum 360 with LA heads that came in a project. Now I know where to check to see if the oil passage was drilled out. Thanks UTG!
So my 87 diplomat should have a roller cam? Ill take a look inside before i order anything but that info helps with planning my budget/build. Thanks for making this video. I learn something every time i watch one of your videos.
I have a nostalgia for the LA engine. I've had both LA and Magnum, there don't seem to be enough advantage in stock form to quib over. I like the old style rocker shafts, the look of the LA is just what I remember best and have most experience with. If I have an LA 318, it can make the power levels I am after, if I want over 400 HP, I'll just go with a 383, or a 440, so a good video here, very good information.
Vice Grip Garage put out a video on Sept 9th 2023 with a 318 with viper row striker crank getting it to 351 the interesting thing is it has LS Chevy heads on it. Check it out.
Glad I ran into this video and channel. Very informative. I have a 94 Jeep ZJ with the 5,2 and am going to be making a junkyard run soon and was thinking about some heads to freshen up. I know now not to worry about those minor cracks when I do a light port and cleanup on them.
Tony... as a follow up, you can do the differences between the timing covers, belt types and accessories. Also how to adapt an LA timing cover to a Magnum with accessories, and a Magnum timing cover to an LA with accessories. Actually, I want to do the later. I have EQ Magnum heads on my LA motor and I want to switch to the Magnum serpentine belt setup for my Duster.
New to your channel Tony so I don't know if you have done a video on the 5.2/5.9 intake manifold leak to the crankcase area. Hughes Engines has a 1/4 CNC aluminum plate with dry gasket seal and new hardware that solves that problem. Fixed my '96 Ram/5.2 and a friend's 2000 Ram/5.9. The quality of the parts and design are great.
13:28 ive personally seen TWO! shaft engines have the shaft mounted upside down . one was a 383 that developed a NASTY squeak..... we popped the valve cover off to see if it was a sticking valve nope.... the rockers were cutting into the shaft due to no lube flipped it so the holes were down..... squeak went away (and actually ran for a long time with that damaged shaft) . . the other was a 440 in my dads 72 Plymouth satellite Sebring plus the driver side shaft was flipped..... but no damage to the shaft (we checked the pass side... it was correct) . we only discovered that AFTER it developed a rod knock it suddenly lost oil pressure.... after sitting for the winter dad fired it up to move it to help melt snow..... and didnt check the gauges till he was about to shut it down . a new oil filter and oil pump gears..... and it got PSI back i figure the old oil filter "collapsed" or fibers went and clogged stuff up . . but ya.... that shaft was like that since he built the motor around 2003 and it ran GREAT...... but never saw very many miles and he ran 20w-50..... which probably prevented the "galling" like on that 383, which he was running 10w-30 as it was a stock motor . . . . . my question is..... could that shaft being flipped cause it to loose oil PSI?? or even cause one side of the motor to have less PSI . like.... because their is no restriction to flow..... you cant generate PSI so was the driver side lifters, shaft, rockers, ETC only getting 5PSI..... while the pass side (and gauge) was reading...and receiving....40+ PSI????? . . . we have yet to tear down the motor and find what exact bearing is knocking..... and how much total damage their is but i still want to know WHY!!! it lost oil psi . a 1.5 year old oil filter? it lost the prime in the oil pump after sitting?? a flipped rocker shaft suddenly caused a motor with good PSI to loose PSI?
I went new Zealand EQ for my magnum build. I really wish I had done more homework. I would have searched out a 360 LA roller. Why because of so many more options. Plus the EQ LA heads flow better than the EQ magnums. Its ok though. I am going off road not the drag strip.
i work at a machine shop and i pressure tested 2 sets of these magnum heads last week 3 outta 4 were cracked between the seats and 2 of them were leaking coolant out the cracks this is all to common and to say they wont leak coolant is ridiculous
Thank you. Filled in a lot of gaps for me. I seem to remember smaller intake valves and ports on 273 and 318 (68 to 73?). Volume on my lap top is poor....could have missed it.
I am currently building a mild cam 5.9 with a Hughes intake and throttle body for my 1998 Ram 1500 4x4. Now I love the metalic blue paint that was used on the AMC engines and am painting this 5.9 that AMC blue. I just learned from UT that there is a link between my 5.9 Magnum and the old AMC 304: the rocker arm assemblies. So my paint color choice actually has a deeper connection than "that sure is a purty color." Any way, good info as always UT.
Great info! Ive owed several makes of V8, my previous being and L83 5.3 V8 was a potent little guy that turned good mileage, a motor I’d definitely choose first to put into a build.
I buy long block G3s from pick a parts all the time, for the same price as magnums, entire G3's intake to oil pan for 240 bucks after tax. It's just easier and cheaper to keep the efi on a G3, then it is to ditch it. Thanks to companies like holley or efi source, prices are less than getting a good carb, intake, and ignition box, but fuel system you say, for 150 bucks get an inline walbro 255, efi line, and an Amazon sourced efi regulator.
Engine Quest made Magnum cylinder heads available with the 318, 340,360 LA style manifold bolt angle. I bought some brand new a few years ago. Not sure if there still available.
No pretentiousness, no clean hands, no looking down on the young guys. Just grit, knowledge and telling it the way it is and making sure that its accessible to everyone. Respect Tony.
Bahahahahaha
Just grit, and shear fucking "know it all" complex. This dudes a tool
@@nimwit0 having been called a "know it all" in the past I can safely there's a difference between actually knowing a specific topic and being a "know it all." UTG supports his arguments, you, on the other hand, do not. Failure to support one's arguments is a good sign of a "know it all."
Yes, UTG kinda pulls a bait and switch with a GM LS vs a Chrysler LA but he's actually showing the interchangeability between a Dodge Magnum and a Chrysler LA to make a better air pump as close as possible to a GM LS.
That you missed this point shows who the "know it all" actually is.
Don't come at me. I'm a Ford fan boy who's honest enough to admit Ford tends to miss the point about an engine being a glorified air pump first and a torque and/or horse power generator second, (yes torque and HP are a byproduct of moving as much air as possible from intake to exhaust with as little resistance as possible).
@@piwright42 🤣😂
No one looks down on younger guys. Younger guys initiate it by being cocky and stupid.
How does that old saying go? Your cook shouldn't be thin, your fishing guide should know the differences between fresh and salt water and if your mechanic is spotless by the end of the day...double check his work.
When Uncle Tony says F those cracks they don't matter, I believe him
I think that's also the case for the 5.7 Chevy Vortec heads, but machine shops don't want to use cracked heads
I have 4 magnum head from 318s one engine had cracks in every cylinder. The other engine had 2 cracks per head. Don't think it would make a difference as I didn't notice them un until I lapped the the valves and seats. They are very minor looking cracks.
They don't. This has been know for years
Well yeah might be a chance the crack could cause a check engine light to come on but since most of us are doing carbs definitely less of a problem.
Awesome man I've been waiting on a magnum video
Thank you Tony, I know I have been bugging you for almost a year to do a side by side comparrison of an LA and Magnum.
It took me about 3 months of research to figure out the differences,
You reach alot more people, and have so much knowledge, that I am positive you have just helped a few hundred people out with this comparison!
Again thank you!
👍😁
Well, if he was all that knowledgeable, then he'd be hot rodding FORDS, not Mopars or GM's! 😁
@@HighlanderNorth1 ew.
@@HighlanderNorth1 he's knowledgeable enough to know not to waste his time with Fords 😂
@@HighlanderNorth1😅😂 Yeah, everyone in the hotrod market wants to mess with 4 cams. Reality is that when it comes to rebuilding your own engines Ford is the WORST of the 3 since they went to 4 cams, twin turbos, etc
360 are some of the greatest sounding V8's ever created.
351c.. cam, job done..change nothing.. XY GT HO 1971. 351c 4v. 160 mph factory..
5.9 Magnums make awesome power for cheap! Mine just pushed my 68 Satellite daily driver to 8.61 in the eighth with a little 600 CFM gas mileage carb, a 904 automatic with the stock converter and 3.55 gears! The only non stock stuff inside my engine is a Hughes cam and valve spring kit and a Cloyes timing set. My friends 56 Chevy with a 350, 4 speed and 5.13 gear runs high 8's/low 9's and a 650 horsepower 7 speed supercharged 2018 Z06 Corvette usually runs around 8.20 so I'm in the same ballpark as a lot of badass cars with a very mild and streetable combo.
NICE!! 👍🏻👍🏻
@@77yogurt Thanks!
@@kennywhiddon1497 Yes roughly according to the conversion chart. It says some cars may be quicker or slower though so it could likely be anywhere from 13.20 to 13.60
AND YOU CAN DO IT WITH JUNKYARD PARTS,thats the amazing ability of a magnum engine,just remember the magnum engines and the new hemi's, the valve springs are junk right out of the box,208 wide open pressure on a valve spring is a joke,need 125 to 135 on the seat and 280 to 335 for serious revs,the magnum 360's are available all the time for less that 300 for a complete core,904's can now be built to hold the power with space age materials[KEVLAR,KOLENE STEELS RED LINED CLUTCHES,AND STRONGER SPRAGS AND BANDS,STAB IT AND STEER--------------TIMING CHAINS CHECK THEM EVERY 65-85 K MILES,mopar timing components are junk after 65 thousand hard miles,good thing they're cheap
1/8 mile sucks, I won't even watch 1/8 mile.
I'm mostly a Chevy guy. And I despise the LS. I'm into the original cast iron small blocks. With cast iron heads. I built dozens of them. I've raced them, I've built them for hot rods and daily drivers. Built right, an old school small block Chevy can make way more power than you might think, for those that don't actually know. Also, built right, and properly maintained, they can last practically forever as a daily driver engine. There is a reason the aftermarket is still making them.
Gotta appreciate how this was uploaded at 3:18
Great explanation uncle Tony. Actually, better than great! I am always amazed at your memory and the knowledge you have retained. A walking Mopar encyclopedia! Thanks for the video.
I wish I new as much as he’s forgotten lol
Years ago one of the car magazines ordered a Mopar performance 360 that had a rather hot cam.
They stuffed it in a four door valiant they nicknamed, "the brick". With headers, huge carb, hot ignition and four speed trans, they were running it on a track with lots of curves and one fairly long straightaway and they were keeping up with BMW's and vettes. But they did a major job on the brakes and suspension. Can't remember what all they did but the brakes were huge ones from what would go on a cop car.
If I remember correctly that crate 360 cube engine was rated at 380 HP and 390 torque. But the torque came on strong at low rpm and carried all the way to 6000 before dropping off.
It would be a blast to build a 360 magnum to those specs, and stuff it in a Dodge Dart or Valiant and go street racing.
Thinking back long and hard, I believe it was a Mopar Performance magazine article.
Had to laugh at, "the brick". Comparing it to sleek, streamlined Vettes and BMWs it really was shaped like a brick. LOL
I bet it thoroughly pissed off some guys to have that "brick" keep up with them.
I've been running a LA roller cam long block using the 1986 2bbl factory fuel system & external electric fuel pump. Been daily driving/utility usage and does a great great job still.
I've got a magnum 5.2 I've been thinking about upgrading. We need more input from the pros like you on what our options are.. you know, mild upgrades on up to major mods.. I really think that would be an awesome series that so many of us would appreciate! Either way, I love your channel, keep up the awesome content!
I'm not a pro by any means but I've done a couple Magnum builds and I'm currently doing a stroked 360 LA for my drag car. My first step to upgrading the magnums has always been a bigger cam, new lifters and pushrods, and headers. This will at least get you the sound and attitude of a somewhat "built" V8. Next would be an inspection of the heads, magnum heads are nutorious for cracking and as a general rule of thumb it's always good to take them off and inspect them. If there's no cracks great! Now you just need to decide if you want to clean up the original heads or go with a new set. Me personally I'd go with a set of aluminum heads that have the ability to bolt on an LA style intake because there's so many more options for an LA as far as intakes go. But this gives you the option to swap a 4bbl carb on it, you could also use the original throttle body with a 4bbl to 2bbl adaptor or go all out and do a modern efi system. All depends on cost and what you'll use the engine for and your goals for it. And last but not least you have your bottom end, the factory bottom ends aren't bad in these engines at all, but if you're looking to raise your compression ratio, add more cubes or plan on using a power adder, a new rotating assembly would be in your best intrest. Hope this helps some! Goodluck with the build!
Richard Holdener is doing a series on the 360 right now, I know it's not a 318 but most of what he says and does to make power will still apply to it, the power gains may just be a little lesser on the smaller engine
Junkyard magnum heads are ok if you're on a tight budget. I went with EQ Magnum heads for my kids 360. Stock valve sizes, spring upgrade, some bowl work and gasket matching. Topped it off with a home ported Performer RPM intake being fed by a Performer carb (AFB clone). Last year he put it on a chassis dyno and it made 365 HP and 415 torque at the wheels. I'm a firm believer in the Magnum style head. BTW you can purchase EQ heads with the old LA style intake manifold bolt pattern.
I’m in Western Australia, I’m a Cleveland guy but I love UT knowledge and look forward to every episode.
Great stuff UT.
Keep it up. 👍🏽👍🏽
The Cleveland is hands down the king of small blocks. And I’m a die hard mopar guy.
At first, I didn't like Clevelands because they were odd Ford engines. But recently, I've been appreciating them more.
Cleveland was designed by a Team of Buick engineers
As a young guy doing my first swap thank you so much for the top notch content and sharing your knowledge
I'm a Kiwi, still living in NZ. I'm also an Old's guy, by accident really as I ended up buying a nice '65 Cutlass 10 years ago now. I still enjoy your Mopar videos as you impart great info on video even though it probably won't be relevant to me. Cheers
Great information again Tony! makes me wish I was still in the hot-rod, race engine shops. As a machinist I loved to hone cylinders and line hone engine blocks just as close I could! I'm old now, retired but I still would love to do it all over again...
I can’t put into words how helpful this video was for me I just got a junkyard 5.9 magnum to build for my 1990 Dakota that I just put a custom built frame under that I plan on running some hard tire no prep drag racing with and a little street cruising. I have a fully forged and balanced scat stroker kit on the way for it and I gotta get it stripped down to the block this weekend to send to the machine shop to get bore .030 over, then I ordered a set of trick flow aluminum heads for it and a trick flow intake manifold. Now I plan on running it carbureted because the simplicity of it. Then I plan on running nitrous on it at the track but I don’t know how big of a shot yet because I’ve personally never dealt with nitrous but I have a couple buddy’s that have used nitrous since they first started drag racing and once the engine is in the truck and running they will help me with that decision.
Very good and very thorough video --- one thing you forgot to mention: if you're going to use stock rocker arms the LA rocker arms are 1.5 ratio and stock Magnum rocker arms are 1.6 ratio which would likely be a consideration when selecting a camshaft
5.2 & 5.9 Magnum heads are sliiiiiightly different. There is approx. 1/10" height difference in intake ports between the two, and the 5.9 ports are also slightly wider. There are two casting numbers too...
Hi Tony! In 1978 I took the head off a 318 in a 69 dodge polara and left the intake and exhaust manifolds on to change the head gasket and it worked. I was 17 and dumb, desperate ,and wild to get on the road I guess. That's my story and sticking to it.
I put a 95 360 in my 78 truck. Has stock Chrysler ignition, M1 intake, and edelbrock on top. Kept the 46rh that was attached to the magnum but wired the od and lockup to two switches. Took the 9.25 rear and had to weld new spring perches because the 78 is a bit more narrow.
I have an 87 2wd Ramcharger that I transplanted the 5.2 in. I have the Edelbrock RPM intake with a Street Demon on top. I used the Magnum front drive. Everything fits good. Bolted to the 904 with one TQ hole slightly elongated. The motor had 200,000 miles on it. When I pulled the heads, all looked good, so I bolted it up! No other changes, really. Runs really good. I used a small-cap HEI distro and remote coil from Assault racing for spark.
Thanks, Uncle Tony!
Im working on some magnum heads right now. Doing some cleaning up work and valve relief no porting or polishing just smoothing things over. 1st head i done no cracks, 2nd head, watch this video took the 2nd head apart and BAM! flipping crack. Im trusting that your right that the crack doesnt affect the valve. Other wise ill have to tear down some other engines for the head off them.
When using retro hydraulic lifters you will probably have to open up the holes where the push rods go thru the head to keep them from contacting inside the tube.
Excellent video. On the LA heads, if you strip an intake bolt you can use a longer bolt and with the valve cover off you can put a nut on the longer bolt that will extend into the rocker area of head. I had to do it before.
They also made "fast burn" heads for LA motors. The valves were small, but that can be changed. The set I put on my 318 woke that little mill up quite nicely.
Thanks Tony. I hope that ends a lot of confusion people have had about the difference between the LA and Magnum blocks.
So close but so different.
Like a 170 and a 225.
It's a lot like the differences between the 86 and earlier SBC and the 87 and later SBC. Fairly minor things for the most part.
Honestly I will be humble and modest when I say even as a hard-core mopar guy, the LS engines are the ultimate V8 engines. The power and reliability of all of them has just amazed me. I mean really even the old LA and magnums can't compete without putting more money into it then you would an ls for sub par performance
I've always wondered at the lack of love for the Magnum, I always placed it between the Vortec 5.0/5.7 and the LT1/L99 in evolutionary terms, I think the stock Magnum intake is a few steps ahead of the Vortec weirdness.
Yeah, and there are tons and tons and tons of them in the wrecking yards. So much power making potential there tossed away.
Thanks Tony, I have a 318 magnum and wanted to use the heads on a 73 318.. now I know what I need to do to use them
I am not a mopar fanatic. But this was a very needed video. Your chrysler engine knowledge is impressive.
I am glad I watched this.
Thank you!
273 v8 65-69 In Australia in our Valiants had a solid lifter, the whole assemblys are sought after rocker gear etc.
same in america. biiig money.
I subscribed right after the part where you said to not worry about the cracked heads.
You just made my day and you’re right it ran fine as is.
Between your channel and Nick’s Garage, I can stay entertained for hours. Thanks for your approach to these videos; it shows your heart.
That was fantastic. I am not building a hot rod, but I do work on my own cars and owned an early Magnum in a 94 Jeep Grand Cherokee I had. I bought it burning oil, fearing a rebuild would be necessary, but just replaced valve cover gaskets and valve stem seals/guides, voila, clean exhaust. Easiest fix I ever did on an engine. I liked the magnum, but I love the Hemi in my Challenger.
This reminds me of the great magazine articles I used to read over and over again... Tony you're a legend. Thank you for being our guide. 🙂
I'll second the running on the cracked heads I built a healthy magnum for my 98 1500 and pulled heads off of 6 engines all were cracked so I took the ones that had the fewest and ran them still running strong to this day
Tony, I've always wondered if the late hemi heads could be used on the LA blocks. I know the bore spacing is the same, but how about head bolt pattern? Then I'm sure the valve train would be a can of worms, along with an intake. Could you do a late hemi vs LA engine comparison? And the LA's weird 59 degree lifter angle, could you use that to an advantage to use any of the early small block hemi heads on an LA?
I have a 71 318 la block with the 80s heads, stock cam from 1969, cast crank and a 4 barrel intake with an edelbrock 600cfm carb, thing starts better than a new car
Thank you Sir for running this, it answers a lot of questions for me. For my 80 D150 I built an 88 360 roller engine . I had already rebuilt the 80 heads and tried to use them on the 88. The pushrods dragged on the openings where they pass through going into the block. Fortunately I was able to sell these heads for a decent price right away and got busy and cut the seats and valve faces on the 88 roller heads.
My 1970 340 heads have 2.02 intake1.60 exhaust factory installed. The head looks like a ordinary early 360 head casting, but no air injector passages. The valve pockets under the seat right down to the bowl were shaped with a throat cutter at the factory. I never fully ported these heads, only gasket matched and blended. The hyd flat cam has about .550 lift and really works good with the near stock heads. I built the motor when I was a teen in the mid 80s, it's had cam, intake, exhaust changes since then, that's all. It is a great engine, 318 and 360 LA motors also are such tough motors!
My brother had a 1970 340 Dart Swinger 340. I had/have a 71 Demon 340. We bought them new in 70 and 71. They both had the newer 360 casting with 2.02 intakes and 1.60 exhaust. I even had Dodge pull one head on my car to prove it was the right head! They finally convinced me as I was there when they tore down my engine. Funny thing was the dealer mechanics didn't even know they started using that casting in 1970.LOL! I went on to race my cars in Super Stock and did quite well including setting my class record.
This is the video I've been waiting over a year for. I'm building a 5.9 Magnum to install in my '85 W150. Picked up a decent virgin core but the heads had those very cracks. Nobody could tell me definitively whether the cracks were benign or death sentences and I was about to pay for a pressure test. Not intere$ted in aftermarket heads for my truck if I don't need them and I was suspicious that the cracks were N.B.D. Uncle Tony says "Run 'em" and that's good enough for me. Also, I went with KB107 slugs (0.020" over) which should get me closer to zero deck than the stock ones that were 0.050"+ down. Just got it back from balancing. Now to drill the heads for my Performer spread bore and Thermoquad. Using OEM single pickup distributor and stock LA ignition. Just a work truck that covers a lot of highway so no idea what cam I'll use yet?
Uh Ohh, you forgot a big one. NO PROVISION for a mechanical fuel pump on the Magnum blocks.
If anyone wants to swap a magnum and run a carb; look for one from a dead Jeep Grand Cherokee.
The reason is the belt driven accessories are more compact. The ones from trucks and vans take up more room. When I did my swap the only aftermarket intake manifold available was a MoPar M1. You can get an Edelbrock now a days, maybe others. Aftermarket intakes have shorter runners and smaller plenum areas than the OEM "barrel" intake manifold. A cam more suitable cam for this combo needs to be selected.
The Magnum has no heat riser so get an carb with an electric choke. Had good luck with a Eddy 1406. I was able to get mine dialed in on cold start to driving in less than a minute. You have to dial in a summer and winter adjustment but once you have that down you are fine.
I pulled a Magnum out of a 1995 Ram and when I took the heads off the block, it had the oil holes from the factory, as I was looking to run my 2.02 J heads on it.
TONY! You missed, early TBI magnum blocks (or as you called (LA Roller) are drilled to oil the rockers. These are the blocks to have.
Also 5.2 magnum oil pan same as 5.9. 360 style.
And the cam snout.
Great Video!
@Daniel G
I would know how to answer if I know the comment.
You make no sense.
We had one Magnum valve seat crack spread out across the chamber into water and start eating coolant at an impressive rate. It was bolted to a roller cam 360 block for a couple years. That's a grand total of one, out of maybe a dozen sets of Magnum heads I've had or worked with, maybe 70% of which had cracks. But it is definitely at least possible.
Duuuuuude. This is an AMAZING video. This is info I have been trying to compile in one place for years. THANK YOU!
If you use American motors lifters and hollow pushrods ,you can run LA heads on magnum block without drilling the block oil passages out.
Things are getting better for the newest Hemi. It's starting to get some more serious aftermarket support. It's unlikely to ever catch up to the LS in terms of what you can buy at any given price point and expect to make the most reliable power. The LS picked up the batton in this race handed off by the original SBC that just DOMINATED and is running away with it once again.
It's funny because LS heads are like a windsor and cleveland hand a baby. Lol. You can even take LS heads cut one cylinder off each and mount them to a ford 300 6.
Tony - From memory when I did the swap down under in NZ the truck boss needs to be cut off with a grinder to gain header clearance and a knob of iron on the block needs grinding off to clear the starter if your using a 904/727 trans, I used a beefed up 904 on my one! You guys in the USA got it sooooo good, do you know how many junk yard 360 and 5.7 hemi's there are in NZ, yeah you guessed it ZERO!!!! If was given a 360 mag in the USA, by the time I got it here it would owe about $1200 to $1500!! Thanks Bruce from NZ
Somebody needs to start shipping sea containers full of parts.
man, thats gotta suck having to see all those ls engines with nothing to run against them. barras are neat, but ive gotten bored of them.
I will probably never put an engine together but listening to this info is interesting. Good job as always Tony!
Ive got the best of both worlds sitting in storage. A late 92-93 360. "308" heads, with a factory roller cam, including the lifter retention "spyder". Mine also has a factory windage tray. Another sweet piece is the timing chain cover, which eliminates the mount for the mechanical fuel pump. Nice if you are running an electric pump only
thanks for the cracked heads explanation. now i will keep my engine as i liked very much the roller cam idea. As a canadian i tried to find/buy the engine quest heads that is said to be a better flowing recast head than the crack prone mopar head. now i just got to find a car to put it in as the one that was supposed to have it in is now a 440+ 6 pack.
nonono. stay away from engine quest right now. their QC is JUNK atm.
I'm looking at my 67 Olds 330 and every part in it (except pistons) and on it will bolt right in a 307, 350 or 403.
Thanks for the description of the difference between the LA and the Magnum . I was thinking about going to the Magnum. I currently have a mild built 1974 LA 360. Forged pistons and rings gapped for nitrous. Still have the stock crankshaft but I'm running studs on the main caps and rods. I put some procomp aluminum heads with roller rockers on it. 10.5 to 1 compression. Run a 250 shot. I was thinking about building a newer stroked 408 combo. All forged rotating assembly. And a roller camshaft. I was told that the 73-74 360 block is great but is it better then the magnum with the 408 setup.
Also it's in a 5800 lb van that runs 7.7 in the 1/8 mile.
Just put a 360 Magnum in my Fifth Avenue. Been a Mopar fanatic all my life 💪🏾
Wow I bet your 5th Ave scoots!
I've had multiple Magnums go well over 300,000 miles in Ram wagons,and were still running when sold. Never even needed a starter. Fantastic motors. Transmission and fuel pump not so much.
LOVE the videos, sir! I do have one correction though; many people think the 5.9 and 5.2 used the same heads; not entirely true. The 5.2 "Magnum"s supposedly all came with 53020466 castings. These (53020466 castings) were supposedly cast in the U.S., while 5.9 "Magnum"s supposedly all came with the 53006671 castings (which were reportedly all cast in Mexico; and the quality difference really shows if you look at enough of these heads like I do..... the "0466" heads are just a lot "cleaner" looking than the "6671" heads). Now onto the differences-
If you look at these two castings side by side and from all angles, you most likely will not see any differences. But if you look closer, you will see that the 6671 heads (which came on the 5.9s) have intake ports that are roughly 1/10 of an inch TALLER than the ones on the 0466 (5.2) heads. These measurements are consistent, head to head and casting to casting. Everything else on the two castings is pretty much the same. I do not know if this was intentional or not (makes no sense, as I do believe the gaskets and even intake plenums are the same between the two castings), but if you multiply that 1/10 of an inch of material times 8 intake ports/cylinders, you get a (potentially) fairly substantial airflow difference between the two castings...
Now I have no idea whether or not there is a bottleneck created by either the intake gasket and/or the intake manifolds, but I do know that (supposedly), the above information on the two castings is 100% correct.
The strange part is supposedly only one of these castings has been available (in the past) as a replacement head from the Mopar parts counters...so maybe Chrysler had intended on doing something proper by having bigger ports on the bigger engine and smaller ports on the smaller engine, but then scrapped that whole idea as a cost saving measure (that, or the actual performance numbers were negligible, which is more likely). I've never measured the Magnum V10 ports, but I would imagine they are the same size as the 6671s....And you are DEAD accurate with the Crack info.!! We actually cut into a Magnum head once (right where it cracks), and you can literally go more than 3/4" down before hitting water....Anyway, GREAT videos!!!
From 1996 - 2000 they Were made in New Haven Foundry
Michigan, I know because I poured them we were one If not the last Foundries that poured iron with hand ladles
We did Magnums, 318 - 360 use the same heads, We did V10 Magnums & also the Dart 454 Iron Eagle heads, Far as them having cracks the Mixer dumped the metals meaning silicone, graphite, for the other one it was 3.
The mixing process was done by hand mix this mix that, Sometimes we had a whole skid of scrap Magnum heads, overall poor quality control, they use to cut them in half to find out they were scrap
You stated that the cracks on the Magnum heads don’t cause a problem. Wrong ! Those cracks caused all sorts of misfires and when OBD2 came alive lots and lots of misfire codes. We were doing 2 to 3 sets of Magnum heads a week under warranty at the dealership. As per out Mopar tech reps those cracks caused coolant steam in the combustion chamber and put out the spark/flame. Now maybe on a street carbureted vehicle or race care you may not even notice. The computer would.
I have never been a fan of oil filled pushrods, I think it makes them much heavier than people realize and I have never seen anyone weigh the assembly and include the oil . I think the factory LA valvetrain is very light and robust if not as adjustable as a comparable small block chebby
density of motor oil is 0.0313 lb/in^3. a 5/16", .065" wall, 7.5" long pushrod leaves a volume of .1962 cubic inches for oil to fill. the weight of the oil will add .00614 lbs, or .0798 ounces to the weight of the pushrod , or less than 2.8 grams. not sure what the weight of a 5/16" .065 wall pushrod is with the ball ends, but the volume of a 5/16", .065" wall cylinder 7.5" long times the density of steel yields 1.73 ounces, so you're looking at going up to 1.81 oz with the oil in it.
I pulled a 360 out of a '91 "Boys & Girls Club" van they junked with 62k miles. The '89-'92 318/360's seem to be a mix of the LA & Magnum.
Seriously a solid teacher on this topic. none of the condescending talk and all the knowledge
Tony - I don't know why but the cam bearing between a LA and Magnum are a different widths and I called up Dura bond and they didn't know why they were different widths. Do you as I had 360 LA cam bearings and I wanted to use them in my Magnum, well they are in there and its working, maybe more surface area for higher loading with the heavier springs?? Look them up PD-16 vs PD-25, 2 different part numbers. Thanks Bruce from NZ
I love the 318. Had one in my family hand me down 1980 Chrysler Lebaron. Wish i kept that car. Young and dumb, cash for clunkers ended a lot of vehicles. I bought an 05 Suburban Z71 4x4 in 2022 for just $2,300 and it just runs. Will completely build it later. It is rolling towards 400k miles. I was so happy with the 05 burb, i jumped on an 07 Yukon 4x4 with the dreadful AFM that has 230k miles and i paid $2,500 for it. I want to buy an 98-99 Durango with the 5.2L, but the mpg is terrible compared to the mpg i get in the much bigger Suburban. Any idea why that is? New Subscriber. God Bless you and your family.
There is a subtle difference on the oil filter plate too. They look the same but the magnum plate is more shallow. If you use the 90 degree adapter the internal gasket won’t be thick enough to seal. If you use a magnum plate on the la block it won’t seal. You can also buy magnum heads that are predrilled will la intake bolt holes.
I have seen one of those cracks blow out into the water jackets but it was on a truck that was SEVERELY overheated
I read in some magazine probably over 2 decades ago the Magnum heads crack and it absolutely is a non issue. Gotta give credit to the effective and efficient Magnum head design to AMC. Its what AMC had and Dodge bought them and their tech. When the Dakota came with the all new 318 "Magnum" rated at 220 hp in 1992 many were taken back how quick the new 318 was. It ran the 1/4 quicker than the on paper rating would suggest. The 454 SS Chevy muscle truck was easily dusted off by the Dakota and its improved 318.
edelbroc air gap for the magnum is very nice manifold big ports.
Are the late 90s 360 magnums built the same as they were 20 years prior?
Funny that so many people want to use LA heads on a magnum...
Magnum heads can be drilled for both intake patterns.
Magnum valve covers are less prone to leaks.
Magnum heads make more power stock for stock.
After market magnum heads like r/t and engine quest are even better... Then send them to hughes for porting and make serious power.
Bonus: roller rockers for ford or chevy will work on magnum heads.
I have r/t heads with hughes stg2 cnc porting and bigger valves. I'll never run L.A. heads again.
You're awesome. Seriously. That was the best time wasted. Learned a tonne, and wasn't bored. Straight forward and informative. I cant wait to watch some more videos and learn some more. Maybe one day i'll actually build something when I win the lottery and you will be the reason it works! Cheers mate!
Great info Uncle Tony! Glad you are paying some attention to the Magnum engines. Looking forward to more info on them. Very interesting that Chrysler reached back and used the AMC V8 rocker design for the Magnum.
I have a 1986 318 roller motor in my 73 dart swinger. With the cams you have to decide if you ever want to run a mechanical fuel pump or not because the magnum cams have a shorter snout.
Michael Edge,
You can get an adaptor kit for magnum short nose cams that has the eccentric so you can run a mechanical fuel pump. Timing chain cover and water pump has to be changed to an LA style. ( LA waterpumps turn in the opposite direction as a magnum)
I needed this video! I have a Magnum 360 with LA heads that came in a project. Now I know where to check to see if the oil passage was drilled out. Thanks UTG!
early early magnums had them drilled already. rare af though.
So my 87 diplomat should have a roller cam? Ill take a look inside before i order anything but that info helps with planning my budget/build. Thanks for making this video. I learn something every time i watch one of your videos.
Thanks for this video, I have done magnum heads on an LA engine before, but this explained so many more differences.
Hey Tony, which years of the Mopar 360 LA had a problem with cracks in the lifter valley?
I have a nostalgia for the LA engine. I've had both LA and Magnum, there don't seem to be enough advantage in stock form to quib over. I like the old style rocker shafts, the look of the LA is just what I remember best and have most experience with. If I have an LA 318, it can make the power levels I am after, if I want over 400 HP, I'll just go with a 383, or a 440, so a good video here, very good information.
Vice Grip Garage put out a video on Sept 9th 2023 with a 318 with viper row striker crank getting it to 351 the interesting thing is it has LS Chevy heads on it. Check it out.
Glad I ran into this video and channel. Very informative. I have a 94 Jeep ZJ with the 5,2 and am going to be making a junkyard run soon and was thinking about some heads to freshen up. I know now not to worry about those minor cracks when I do a light port and cleanup on them.
Tony... as a follow up, you can do the differences between the timing covers, belt types and accessories. Also how to adapt an LA timing cover to a Magnum with accessories, and a Magnum timing cover to an LA with accessories. Actually, I want to do the later. I have EQ Magnum heads on my LA motor and I want to switch to the Magnum serpentine belt setup for my Duster.
New to your channel Tony so I don't know if you have done a video on the 5.2/5.9 intake manifold leak to the crankcase area. Hughes Engines has a 1/4 CNC aluminum plate with dry gasket seal and new hardware that solves that problem. Fixed my '96 Ram/5.2 and a friend's 2000 Ram/5.9. The quality of the parts and design are great.
13:28 ive personally seen TWO! shaft engines have the shaft mounted upside down
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one was a 383 that developed a NASTY squeak..... we popped the valve cover off to see if it was a sticking valve
nope.... the rockers were cutting into the shaft due to no lube
flipped it so the holes were down..... squeak went away (and actually ran for a long time with that damaged shaft)
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the other was a 440 in my dads 72 Plymouth satellite Sebring plus
the driver side shaft was flipped..... but no damage to the shaft (we checked the pass side... it was correct)
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we only discovered that AFTER it developed a rod knock
it suddenly lost oil pressure.... after sitting for the winter
dad fired it up to move it to help melt snow..... and didnt check the gauges till he was about to shut it down
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a new oil filter and oil pump gears..... and it got PSI back
i figure the old oil filter "collapsed" or fibers went and clogged stuff up
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but ya.... that shaft was like that since he built the motor around 2003
and it ran GREAT...... but never saw very many miles
and he ran 20w-50..... which probably prevented the "galling" like on that 383, which he was running 10w-30 as it was a stock motor
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my question is..... could that shaft being flipped cause it to loose oil PSI??
or even cause one side of the motor to have less PSI
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like.... because their is no restriction to flow..... you cant generate PSI
so was the driver side lifters, shaft, rockers, ETC only getting 5PSI..... while the pass side (and gauge) was reading...and receiving....40+ PSI?????
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we have yet to tear down the motor and find what exact bearing is knocking..... and how much total damage their is
but i still want to know WHY!!! it lost oil psi
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a 1.5 year old oil filter?
it lost the prime in the oil pump after sitting??
a flipped rocker shaft suddenly caused a motor with good PSI to loose PSI?
nope. my 400 has the shafts upside down to lube the rockers better. runs damn good. 35lbs oil pressure at 750rpm at 180F.
I went new Zealand EQ for my magnum build. I really wish I had done more homework. I would have searched out a 360 LA roller.
Why because of so many more options. Plus the EQ LA heads flow better than the EQ magnums. Its ok though. I am going off road not the drag strip.
i work at a machine shop and i pressure tested 2 sets of these magnum heads last week 3 outta 4 were cracked between the seats and 2 of them were leaking coolant out the cracks this is all to common and to say they wont leak coolant is ridiculous
Thank you. Filled in a lot of gaps for me. I seem to remember smaller intake valves and ports on 273 and 318 (68 to 73?). Volume on my lap top is poor....could have missed it.
Yeah those surface only head cracks are nothing to worry about. The Mopar 2.2 and 2.5 liter four cylinders do that too. They run just fine.
Head cracks are much better than crack heads!
Thanks bro. I did learn abit. I have a magnum 360 in my old 2500 300,000 miles on it, and its good to hear good things about this motor. Ty
I am currently building a mild cam 5.9 with a Hughes intake and throttle body for my 1998 Ram 1500 4x4. Now I love the metalic blue paint that was used on the AMC engines and am painting this 5.9 that AMC blue. I just learned from UT that there is a link between my 5.9 Magnum and the old AMC 304: the rocker arm assemblies. So my paint color choice actually has a deeper connection than "that sure is a purty color." Any way, good info as always UT.
Had a 92 Dakota Sport with a 318 in it it was an amazing engine.
When ever I make it to meet you I will bring my early unmarked W2 heads for you do a video on them.
Tease
Engine Quest has a magnum head that has the LA intake manifold bolt pattern...
Great info! Ive owed several makes of V8, my previous being and L83 5.3 V8 was a potent little guy that turned good mileage, a motor I’d definitely choose first to put into a build.
FORD WAS USEING THAT ROCKER ARM STYLE SINCE 1977 PUSH ROD OILING SINCE 1962
Awesome run down man. Loved it. I sent 1 of my 318 magnums to be re bored to a 4.1 hoping it works out. It's an experiment.
How’d that turn out, cylinder walls to thin?
Not too thin i think
Thank you uncle Tony! As a new guy to Mopar I have wondered about the difference between the LA360 in my Cordoba versus the Magnum. Now I know. 😁
I buy long block G3s from pick a parts all the time, for the same price as magnums, entire G3's intake to oil pan for 240 bucks after tax. It's just easier and cheaper to keep the efi on a G3, then it is to ditch it. Thanks to companies like holley or efi source, prices are less than getting a good carb, intake, and ignition box, but fuel system you say, for 150 bucks get an inline walbro 255, efi line, and an Amazon sourced efi regulator.
Props to you Tony. Love your no nonsense, no bullshit videos. Long live those Chrysler engines!
Engine Quest made Magnum cylinder heads available with the 318, 340,360 LA style manifold bolt angle. I bought some brand new a few years ago. Not sure if there still available.