So...listen,I love the fact that you're not jamming home security systems and hair care products down our throats.that being said I would like to see Uncle Tony have some kind of sponsorship from day O'Reilly's or something like that.I just think Tony deserves more income,also part of the deal would have to be honest about their products.
I appreciate the thought, but we get sponsorship offers literally every single day. We turn them down because we have far too much respect for our viewers time. They have to endure the normal commercials (Which pay our bills) and we feel that it's just wrong to add paid endorsements on top of that. You came here for information and possibly entertainment, and that is the only thing you will ever get from us.
@@UncleTonysGarage I don't know Tony, you made a hell of a pitch for Mary's Man Cream. Hell, I went to the store looking for it to cure a burning itch I didn't realize I had!
@@UncleTonysGarage And you guys don't push the merch hard at all. I'd have a retail store at the shop and sell anything that I could put a UTG logo on and every color too.
Om 49 years old ive ben building engines since i was 16 .. i help ppl out when i can and show them how to do different things … when i explain something to ppl i also tell them why and the reasoning behind it .. i notice you do the same thing … its a big help .. probably more than mst ppl realize !!!! Keep it up !!!
Tony, your ability to talk and explain what you are doing while you are doing it has improved immensely since the Stunt Carb days! Well Done, Grasshopper!
Warning: If you use a Moly based high pressure assembly lube DO NOT freak out your engine oil will be full of gray clouds of Moly but it’s normal. It may take 3-4 oil changes to flush all the Moly out. Don’t freak out! 👍
If you have a magnetic drain plug you will even find out that it is slightly magnetic and will have a glob of moly sludge on the magnet as well for a few oil changes.
I have not seen anyone using a speed wrench in ages. Nice, you can feel any resistance in the bolt threads going in like Tony said. When I was 16 in 1973, I got an inexpensive tool set from my parents for my birthday. It had a speed wrench in it. Old gearhead in the neighborhood taught me how to repair my own junk. I`m 65 now, tool kit is long gone, but I STILL have that speed wrench. Socket lock ball is gone but I still use it. Piece of electric tape on end holds sockets.
Hi Tony, thanks for another great video! As an engineer, I can tell you that the majority of torque applied to fasteners is consumed overcoming friction between the threads and under the bolt head. If we can lower the friction, the clamp load to hold parts together will increase. Clamp load is the force that will keep the mains and rods in place. We never want the caps to separate during operation from a clamp load that is too low. The best practice is to use a 30 weight oil on the main and rod bolt threads, AND, the same oil or assembly lube under the screw head. The majoity of friction is under the bolt head. This approach will sigificantly increase clamp load to prevent gapping. Measure the stretch on a connecting rod bolt with dry threads versus lubricated, and you'll find the stretch will longer with lubed threads indicating more clamp load. To illustrate the opposite, let's say one of the bolts was partially cross-threaded which is the same as high thread friction. If the majority of torque is used to overcome the crossed threads, then there's going to be minimal clamp load. The torque wrench will click off, but there's hardly any clamp load holding the parts together, which is bad! Always use an oil on bolt threads and under bolt heads for more consistent and higher resultant clamp loads. This is particularly important on head bolts too!
That’s basic torque knowledge, learned that in grade 9 lol! You can’t say one way or the other is better. The goal is correct and consistent clamping force. I’ve seen instances where a builder had blocks breaking due to over lube on fasteners and over clamp force. Best is the follow specific procedures outlined buy the manufacturer or fastener maker
Lubing the thread or the bolt head contact point, or using ARP bolts, You are able to provide more clamping force, that is correct. But! That way you are deforming them more. Cylinder head or bearing cap will not be true after.
Thank you for sharing your experience with engine building. I have always wanted to put one together, and I think you have given me the courage to give it a try. Thanks again...
These are great tips for a home engine builder. Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks. It really is helpful hearing from someone as experienced as you!
Those blue ring compressors, decades ago I got one of the worst cuts on my finger from one. I don't even know how it happened but it was deep and a clean slice. Blood didn't make good assembly lube.
Thank you❤ I would never have been able to build a gy6 engine and now a chevy from a 2500 suburban With out people sharing.. Im greatful for this information age rn cause i got trust isuues and most people suck so real life friends who know... Well i ain't got none🤷 But i got yous!!!♥️♥️♥️🇺🇸
Yep! Utube has helped me rebuild a 46re and regear my LSD differential for my Dakota 😊..was able to watch the experts and learn the weaknesses of my combination and addressed them before any problems. Yay Utube!
Tony, Tim here, SO glad your using ALL the methods i was whining about on the Jet assembly.......i dunno what all happened there, all i know is your doing ALL the attention to detail things i do when i assemble a bottom end......GREAT stuff for the novice, or intermediate engine guy, BOTH me and you have been doin this a long time, but THIS vid speaks of the things that ALL engine builders need to do!!....TY SIR!!......another super high quality tech vid from the UTG camp.....LOVE IT BROTHER!!...God Speed on the fire up, when u get there.....
The best thing i did when i started building more engines (subarus) was to buy a piston ring compressor that was specifically designed for the size bores used. its got a super thick bottom so you can't score the deck of the block. Not as much of an issue when you're using cast iron, but when you're working with aluminum you can save yourself a lot of heartache
Great stuff. Thank you! My nephews get upset with me because I never use the air gun. I tell them, "Air,breaks things." They recently learned that when they broke a hard-to-find part inside a transmission they were working on. Bummer.
i prefer motor oil because you can feel it more if stuff is binding, a lot of assembly lubes are ultra thick and makes it hard to turn the crank by hand
In school the teacher taught us with using a trigger type oil can. Thats the first thing I bough for working on motorcycles and doing top ends. No assembly lube, oil the cylinder / cylinders, wipe them down, give the rings on the piston a shot before installing them.
Thanks Uncle Tony, I'm thinking of tackling my first rebuild. Already have a 350 sbc one piece almost torn down. I've done a couple Muncie rebuilds, some light engine work, but this helps me a ton! Thanks again!
Hope it goes well for you. Keep everything really clean. Blow out the crankshaft for sure. Plastigauge works well. Watch a couple of videos on honing. It will help..flipping the pistons will rattle..you'll know what it is but the uninformed will think you built a loose ass engine lol..just MHO..I go thru it with my solid lifters..take your time and stop when you feel tired..tired hurries and makes mistakes..know when to quit for the night.
Visiting the pit area of top fuel after a run is just as much a show as the cars making their run. Quite amazing to watch how the crew works around one another.
Great job Uncle Tony, your videos refresh my attention. Wrench for a living 40+ yrs, Helps me regain confidence on classic stuff that learned as a kid yrs.before I could legally drive.
Thank you for refreshing my memory. The only complete rebuild that I've ever did was a 304 AMC. That was 30 years ago. All the knowledge to do this I got from the factory's repair manual. Did not only teach me to get it right but also thought me more English than my whole school time. Now I have to do a Japanese V8 and I hope I can rescue it.
Hey I watched this today And I could hear things clang and click and even hear everything you were trying to teach ( with out a Screaming, Screeching,howling Guitar or banging drums ) Believe me I like music But I am not a 12 year old who needs a band to help me stay my attention for more tan 15 seconds at a whack YOU ARE A GREAT TEACHER and a breathe of fresh air Thanks much uncle Tony So glad I recently found your channel on RUclips
Great video Tony. I've been building engines for over 50 years and there's one step I do that's different from your assembly instructions. I install the cam first, or at least put it in the block and remove it to make sure it can be installed. More than once I had a camm that didn't want to fit into the cam bearing. Sometimes it's just a burr on the edge of the bearing that can easily be cleaned up. This can be a real pain in the ass if you encounter this after crank is in. Just what I do, not criticizing your approach to assembly.
The LT1 in my 1996 Buick Roadmaster sedan is about to turn over 170k miles. And although it still seems to be running strong. I think I'm gonna have to tear it down and give it a cheap as possible refresh. Unfortunately for the LT1 nothing is cheap. But I want to make sure that it continues to run for another 170k miles. So I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and do it. Definitely not gonna buy anything unless it's necessary. Not trying to build a race engine. But I'll probably do some home porting and anything else free to gain any performance. But I can't afford to do anything more than I absolutely have to. I'll definitely be using all the tricks I've learned from your channel. Thanks Uncle Tony
I did just that, even though the L67 (Series II 3800 supercharged) in my 2000 GTP was running just fine at 195k miles, (No strange noises, no leaks, and had great power) I decided to do a stock rebuild. Even though I thought it was running just fine, I found that all was not fine, as every exhaust valve was leaking compression, not a lot, but they still leaked when I filled the combustion chamber with mineral spirits, the intakes valves where just fine, no leaks, but every exhaust valve leaked a little. I also had four pushrods wearing where they contact the rocker arm, and the connecting rod bearings had evidence of spark knock. Everything else was in great shape inside the engine. I had a machine shop clean the block, install cam bearings, and hone the cylinders for new rings, and also had them do a minor valve job using my original valves and springs, they did have to machine the heads flat however. I installed new timing chain, oil pump gears, new pushrods, and new rocker arms from ZZP, I reused the original camshaft and roller lifters as they had NO wear on them and were still in great shape. Now the engine runs better than ever!
Uncle Tony, are you going to measure the clearance on main journals ? Tight Lines Captain Keith, (oh, I'm building a 496 stroker motor and was just wondering).
One forged piston and the rest original (used) cast? I'm not worried about the balance, as it is notoriously bad from Chrysler, but that's pretty ghetto!! LOL😆 That Crane 302H Commander is a good camshaft, I've used them in many 440s and a friend had one in his '68 Road Runner 383 4spd, and they all ran well. We later put a .509 PurpleShaft in the Road Runner, added 4.30 gears and it was an ANIMAL, but with 3.23s the Commander was a way better choice.👍👌
Very cool Tony. I'm not the handiest tool in the shed & having never built an engine at 66 I know I know I never will, but if I was 20 years younger, I wouldn't be as afraid to try by watching you explain everything so well. Can't wait to see the upcoming episodes. Be well.
Ive put the thrust bearings in first, but yeah every time you tighten the main cap bolts , turn the crank over same deal with the rod bolts, mocking up the big ends on the rods with the crank out is a good idea too
I'm waiting for my 390 fe to get back from the machine shop. I sent it long block form. I don't do this every day..I am a technician for 32 years and I have done it, ford's and VW's....but I let the fe myths get to me and I wish I would have sent it heads up and crank out. I'm looking at 8 months vs maybe 4... but it is a great machine shop and I don't always have the time or energy after I work on others all day long 😂. only real difference is the rear main seal with the metal wedges that drive in the sides. I was going to swap out the camshaft and I nicked the bearing..so crank has to come out and I figured...go all the way. 144k on it. 73 truck. Ford. but point I was just trying to get at is great video Mrs Tony 😂I watch to keep some of the Ole ways fresh in my head. vs the new aluminum, chains galore engines of today. I would have saved money on assembly but...those guys do it day in and out. I am sure you have been there once or twice in your 50 years. love your knowledge and experience Mr Garage❤
I use a hose clamp around the bottom of the ring compressor flush (as near as) with the deck to keep the coil tight, prevents any chance of it getting loose and a ring getting upward force if it gets squeezed. Love this channel !
I like to do a final cleaning / wipe down of cylinder bores or any critical surface with regular ole bleached coffee filters with a dose of ATF on them. seems like the coffee filters are cheap, leave behind zero lint etc and high detergent ATF will remove or pull out the smallest of honing grit or any minute particles. When the coffee filter comes out clean and white you can see just how clean the bores are. If you don't want any ATF left behind the coffee filters will get that last bit out.
This video and every one I have seen are practical down to earth and no BS videos. They are very informative and in practical terms . KEEP making those videos I enjoy watching
Dude great work man. Before there was the interweb their was you. You are legend. The info you give is amazing. Thank you for sharing the info. Cause now people are paying millions for your info. You are my friend a legend
I’m going to have to research this more and watch more videos that cover this to figure out what’s going on. I know you can check the cam grind to make sure it matches up with what’s ordered. I’m not sure which cam I’d need in the first place before ever checking the installation. Guess I call the cam company and tell them what I’m going to use the car for and then they will give me an idea of a combination grind which will be best. I understand the degree of cam needs to be set at the right place. Just don’t know how anyone would do that with a regular timing chain assembly. Seems like you would need an adjustable system. Thanks again for the info. Great and knowledgeable.
You should send a Speed Handel to Nicks Garage because I never saw him use one it drove me nuts seeing him struggle with a ratchet and extension when he could be using a Speed Handle. You are almost assembling that engine exactly as I was taught many many years ago and it always worked for me.I could sort out missed matched caps with my finger nail and have done it for customers several times because your finger nail will always tell you that the parting lines don't match up or they do match. It always works. Reverse offset pins seem to rev up easier if you don't mind pistons clacking. Racing pistons are centered and not offset for a reason, Power! .
My first engine I guided the rods down by hand. Pontiac 400, the hard steel bolts put a nice gash in the cast iron crank. After polishing the nicks down, I did all the rest with 3/8 fuel/vacuum line - no more problems. Most 383 have steel cranks which I believe are a bit more resilient, but you don't want the rod bolts even touching the journals.
My first time here...first video....amazing.....I have watched a few assembly videos now but this one gives me the confidence to do it..... Heard about you from peg..wish i picked you up sooner...good job explaining the work Tony. Thankyou.
Harbor Freight piston ring compressor? You must be rich! You fancy! LOL. I got mine from the jungle website. LOL Great videos. I'm re-learning a lot from you as I build a 350 Chevy. Thanks! Be safe!
I Love assembling engines,, it is just part of me I have never had a fail... you are spot on😎 I never have come up on an engine that wasn't interesting and fun to assemble I've done Ford ,Chevy, Chrysler, Japanese, most all European..4, 6,,and 8 cylinder,, never got a chance on the 10, 12,, 16,, have done many Volkswagen and other Air-cooled engines,, diesel and tractor....
Got a lot out of that ! Every step and every point you made makes total sense ! Very nice job on Explaining the process and your reasons for doing it your way works Great !! Bean to many years for me But you made it seam like it was just yesterday! Thank you
Love your channel. Please consider explaining “why” more often. Why no lube between the bearing and the block? Why no lube below the bearing caps? I’m guessing it is a question of clearance. Appreciate the explanation of how to install the rear seal, and why you should not skew or rotate the seal. More of this please. Thanks
Preluber from a 15$ bug sprayer and some hose and fittings to go in the oil pressure sender hole and you're good to go,no distributor futzing around required.
Great video. I was surprised you didn't torque the mains and check the crankshaft end play. I take it that it's never been an issue. I like the way you squared up the thrust bearing and the other little tips in this video. Thanks for sharing.
Federal Mogul 2 piece seals say to offset the seal in their installation instructions, David Vizards chevy book has it in it also..either way I think it is more important to dab the ends with silicone when fitting them.
Think of it this way, do you offset the main and rod bearings so the two bearing halves aren't meeting at the cap joint? I think the purpose of the offset dates back to the rope wick main seal. It provided an avenue for oil to follow since it was not an engineered fit. It relied on the assembler/mechanic to cut the seal to fit. If it was just a bit loose it would leak. By rotating the seal it minimized the opportunity to follow that joint. With an actual oil seal, Tony's right, they will fit tight and better in the seal cap flush with the block. That element of lack off seal integrity, is no longer a factor.
I really enjoy watching your videos this one on the motor is interesting although I built Chevrolet since I was 20 and now I'm 65 there's a lot of tips and tricks that I pick up from the things you do that always are helping me and you cover such a wide variety of of items that most don't know or don't think of and you have a really good rapport while making your videos it's nice to see people like you doing this taking your time to help others in their world of car endeavors thank you😊
So I picked up a 73 duster with a 225 with an auto for 2300$ car is straight for the most part and clean little rust here and there but I picked it up for me and my 5 year old son cause for that price I just couldn’t pass it up but I’ve decided I am gonna put a 383 in it down the road, and for sure I’m going to look at this video and the other ones for this engine because honestly it’s gonna be my first real engine build and some of the info you shared is gonna come in handy
I've had good luck running them offset especially if the seal comes with that little offset gauge. You could always test fit the seal with the crank out? Could make the difference between a dripper and a 100 percent sealed engine.
and...if the crank jams up when you tighten the caps, loosen then, then strike the caps with a heavy rubber mallet. then tighten and check the rotation again. same for over head cams etc. imho I would use a small bar to lever the crank back and forth - and use a dial indicator while your at it and check the thrust bearing end play
Outstanding Video...All the knowledge that he shares! Hope he mixes it up and does some Old School Chevy's, Ford's, and Pontiac/Olds/Buick Engines! That would be awesome!
Set them bolts on a paper towel or pan to spray em, keep the floor from getting slick. 😉 Never thought I'd ever see Tony do something that I could make a recommendation to improve. 🤣
using a dipping cup is a good idea, along with a tray mounted on the legs of the engine stand to catch things. Check out coffee travel mug mounts, you can probably find a cheap "beer holder" that lets you clamp a dip cup to the engine block bolt holes or the engine stand so you aren't walking back and forth from the table.
I enjoy putting engines together. I haven't gotten to do it for over a decade now because I just haven't needed too. This makes me want to rip one out and tear it apart just to have fun putting it back together again! I always have problems with the rings popping out of those compressors just as it is going into the block.
Yeah I haven't been in a car engine for a few years myself ,but futzed with a few smaller air cooled ones like a Briggs 20hp v twin. Kinda funny how much they sound like a Harley with open pipes for a test run. And it's smaller ,the whole thing fits in a 5 gallon pail almost 😂
I have been building my own motors mostly mopar and Harley motors you do them the same way I was taught I use hand tools to and a good click tork and a pointer torkrench to check for stretch just the way I was taught and I built a lot of early nitro motors to I have a 62Belvedere with a 512Hemi in it it is a happy Hemi in it 1650hp on highly modified factory race Holley carbs I like what you are doing thank you for how to reconditioning batteries.
I offset the pistons in my 273 HighPo back in 1970. It ran like a raped ape! It was in a 65 Dart and the 383 Roadrunners I raced/beat thought is was a 340! I told them to check the casting. I was 18 and very proud of my first rebuild. Raced 340's in Super Stock for many years after that.
I’m just curious did u mount the rods backwards in the pistons first ? Stock rods have a Chanel cut into them and rod bearings too to oil the cam and the chanfer on the crank shaft will not seat the rod or the rod to rod . Rods have a fat and flat side . Fat side to the crank side flat side to rod side
Hey Tony, they say timing is everything just got the last of my parts to build my desoto 330 short block and now I see your video. I've built chevys and fords but this will be my first early hemi. Watching you makes me wish you were a little closer to me. I'm in thorn hill tn. But it's all good! Thanks for the refresher course.
Great assembly tips! I didn't know a lot on my first build at age 19 (350 Chevy, but ran great for 10 years)....35 years later I will use these tips on my Buick 455.
UT I've learned to tap on the outside of the ring compressor lightly a few times then tighten up the bands agin, it helps to get the slack out and the rings go in much easier. your ring compressor appears to be thicker than mine so it is less likely to get caught between the piston and the cylinder bore. My first ring compressor was two tuna fish cans ends cut out, split open and several hose clamps, it worked but what a pain! That was 55 years ago.
Wow ! I did that job on a Lincoln 430 back in '67...that was 55 YEARS AGO ! Brought back memories as if it was yesterday...thanks Tony and I agree with your build methods.
@@Videoswithsoarin Yea, don't do that on the heads of an aluminum block V-8 Benz engine, they have Helicoils in them from the factory so if you ever have to take the headbolts loose/out use a breaker bar to loosen them first then you can use an electric drill, if you do it with an impact, neumatic or electric, it will rip out those helicoils and possibly ruin the block. Not worth the risk.
I have had debates with my son for tapping pistons in the same way for years. These days the whipper snappers use machined to size installers (they do make life easy). Just on the thrust bearing, i finish off the thrust toward the rear if running an Auto. Flex plates do just that, flex away from the block (would love to know other thoughts on this). One last thing, i think Ol Unc was going to explain why he wipes off the rod bolts. I assume he was going to explain how it is possible to hydraulic the block from excess fluids. OHHH one more thing i really like the idea of torquing everything together at the end. I have ???? myself on occasion when doing it as i go. Good vid thanks Unc.
One of our local mechanics/ old timer go to guy when hot rodding anything I stopped by his shop shop one Saturday He was mixing his pre lube Lucas oil additive and engine oil and graphite till it makes a past
A couple things: I will always torque my crank before pistons, so you can check ease of spin. AND - You should have mentioned the BB Dodge has the little hole to give some oil to the opposite piston, whereas Chevy doesn't. Dodge you'd have to turn the pistons on the rods to install backwards, but Chevy doesn't matter.
Good primer on assembly Tony! It amazes me that people don't understand why not to use power tools on engine assembly. How can you sense bad/inferior thread engagement with power tools? And lubing the backside of bearings? amazing. I think a builder needs to understand how an engine actually works firsthand, before turning wrenches and throwing money/time/good parts away.
So...listen,I love the fact that you're not jamming home security systems and hair care products down our throats.that being said I would like to see Uncle Tony have some kind of sponsorship from day O'Reilly's or something like that.I just think Tony deserves more income,also part of the deal would have to be honest about their products.
I appreciate the thought, but we get sponsorship offers literally every single day. We turn them down because we have far too much respect for our viewers time.
They have to endure the normal commercials (Which pay our bills) and we feel that it's just wrong to add paid endorsements on top of that.
You came here for information and possibly entertainment, and that is the only thing you will ever get from us.
@@UncleTonysGarage I don't know Tony, you made a hell of a pitch for Mary's Man Cream. Hell, I went to the store looking for it to cure a burning itch I didn't realize I had!
@@UncleTonysGarage And you guys don't push the merch hard at all. I'd have a retail store at the shop and sell anything that I could put a UTG logo on and every color too.
Tony's no schill lets keep it that way!
@@jasonfalk7696 Glad I wasn't the only one 😂
Where was RUclips 44 years ago when I needed them. This is the stuff of champions! 😁
“It’s a happy little crankshaft.” The Bob Ross of engine building 😊
Om 49 years old ive ben building engines since i was 16 .. i help ppl out when i can and show them how to do different things … when i explain something to ppl i also tell them why and the reasoning behind it .. i notice you do the same thing … its a big help .. probably more than mst ppl realize !!!! Keep it up !!!
Tony is frikkin awesome....if he taught shop in high school we would have a nation of hot rodders...thank you Tony, for sharing!
Tony, your ability to talk and explain what you are doing while you are doing it has improved immensely since the Stunt Carb days! Well Done, Grasshopper!
I miss the days when he squirted everything with gas and smoked a cigarette.
Warning: If you use a Moly based high pressure assembly lube DO NOT freak out your engine oil will be full of gray clouds of Moly but it’s normal. It may take 3-4 oil changes to flush all the Moly out. Don’t freak out! 👍
I cote that on everything and get it nice and hot then change the oil a few times.
Major heart attack vibes from 40 years ago.
If you have a magnetic drain plug you will even find out that it is slightly magnetic and will have a glob of moly sludge on the magnet as well for a few oil changes.
I have always used motor oil in an old fashioned squirt can. Then pre-crank it with no plugs to pump oil through it. Never have used pre-lube junk.
@@markjohnson9495 I used the moly lube on flat tappet cams and lifters, not much else. Bearings always get 20w50 out of a squirt can.
I have not seen anyone using a speed wrench in ages. Nice, you can feel any resistance in the bolt threads going in like Tony said. When I was 16 in 1973, I got an inexpensive tool set from my parents for my birthday. It had a speed wrench in it. Old gearhead in the neighborhood taught me how to repair my own junk. I`m 65 now, tool kit is long gone, but I STILL have that speed wrench. Socket lock ball is gone but I still use it. Piece of electric tape on end holds sockets.
I've always used them since my first engine too, precisely for the reason Uncle Tony explained.
That's an old friend cause that was the year I was born 😁
I love doing assembly with a speed wrench. It just seems right.
@@grumpycarlsworld same age and also use the speed wrench I received in a socket set from my parents when I was 16. Good parents we had.
Hi Tony, thanks for another great video! As an engineer, I can tell you that the majority of torque applied to fasteners is consumed overcoming friction between the threads and under the bolt head. If we can lower the friction, the clamp load to hold parts together will increase. Clamp load is the force that will keep the mains and rods in place. We never want the caps to separate during operation from a clamp load that is too low. The best practice is to use a 30 weight oil on the main and rod bolt threads, AND, the same oil or assembly lube under the screw head. The majoity of friction is under the bolt head. This approach will sigificantly increase clamp load to prevent gapping. Measure the stretch on a connecting rod bolt with dry threads versus lubricated, and you'll find the stretch will longer with lubed threads indicating more clamp load. To illustrate the opposite, let's say one of the bolts was partially cross-threaded which is the same as high thread friction. If the majority of torque is used to overcome the crossed threads, then there's going to be minimal clamp load. The torque wrench will click off, but there's hardly any clamp load holding the parts together, which is bad! Always use an oil on bolt threads and under bolt heads for more consistent and higher resultant clamp loads. This is particularly important on head bolts too!
I use APR bolt install lube
@@randyoehlert5045 That’s even better, especially for head bolts. The oil on the bolt threads may wick into the head gasket.
Great comment. I've never thought of bolt head friction consuming torque.
That’s basic torque knowledge, learned that in grade 9 lol! You can’t say one way or the other is better. The goal is correct and consistent clamping force. I’ve seen instances where a builder had blocks breaking due to over lube on fasteners and over clamp force. Best is the follow specific procedures outlined buy the manufacturer or fastener maker
Lubing the thread or the bolt head contact point, or using ARP bolts, You are able to provide more clamping force, that is correct.
But! That way you are deforming them more.
Cylinder head or bearing cap will not be true after.
I work in a machine shop and just found this channel this morning, great stuff.
Thank you for sharing your experience with engine building. I have always wanted to put one together, and I think you have given me the courage to give it a try. Thanks again...
Your experience in all these years is a great gift to us home assembly rookies
.
These are great tips for a home engine builder. Thanks for sharing the tips and tricks. It really is helpful hearing from someone as experienced as you!
Those blue ring compressors, decades ago I got one of the worst cuts on my finger from one. I don't even know how it happened but it was deep and a clean slice. Blood didn't make good assembly lube.
Thank you❤
I would never have been able to build a gy6 engine and now a chevy from a 2500 suburban
With out people sharing..
Im greatful for this information age rn cause i got trust isuues and most people suck so real life friends who know... Well i ain't got none🤷
But i got yous!!!♥️♥️♥️🇺🇸
Yep! Utube has helped me rebuild a 46re and regear my LSD differential for my Dakota 😊..was able to watch the experts and learn the weaknesses of my combination and addressed them before any problems. Yay Utube!
Tony,
Tim here, SO glad your using ALL the methods i was whining about on the Jet assembly.......i dunno what all happened there, all i know is your doing ALL the attention to detail things i do when i assemble a bottom end......GREAT stuff for the novice, or intermediate engine guy, BOTH me and you have been doin this a long time, but THIS vid speaks of the things that ALL engine builders need to do!!....TY SIR!!......another super high quality tech vid from the UTG camp.....LOVE IT BROTHER!!...God Speed on the fire up, when u get there.....
Currently rebuilding my first engine, a 67 283 for my skylark, your videos are incredibly helpful, and fun to watch
I have never turned a seal for that exact reason and I’m glad someone has said it
The best thing i did when i started building more engines (subarus) was to buy a piston ring compressor that was specifically designed for the size bores used. its got a super thick bottom so you can't score the deck of the block. Not as much of an issue when you're using cast iron, but when you're working with aluminum you can save yourself a lot of heartache
Feels good to watch this channel. Just like shop class, about 50 years ago
Passing on your life’s knowledge to so many people. Can’t get this stuff anywhere else. Thanks Tony.
Appreciate all your videos Uncle Tony
amen
👍👍👍
Great stuff. Thank you! My nephews get upset with me because I never use the air gun. I tell them, "Air,breaks things." They recently learned that when they broke a hard-to-find part inside a transmission they were working on. Bummer.
i prefer motor oil because you can feel it more if stuff is binding, a lot of assembly lubes are ultra thick and makes it hard to turn the crank by hand
In school the teacher taught us with using a trigger type oil can. Thats the first thing I bough for working on motorcycles and doing top ends. No assembly lube, oil the cylinder / cylinders, wipe them down, give the rings on the piston a shot before installing them.
Thanks Uncle Tony, I'm thinking of tackling my first rebuild. Already have a 350 sbc one piece almost torn down. I've done a couple Muncie rebuilds, some light engine work, but this helps me a ton! Thanks again!
Hope it goes well for you. Keep everything really clean. Blow out the crankshaft for sure. Plastigauge works well. Watch a couple of videos on honing. It will help..flipping the pistons will rattle..you'll know what it is but the uninformed will think you built a loose ass engine lol..just MHO..I go thru it with my solid lifters..take your time and stop when you feel tired..tired hurries and makes mistakes..know when to quit for the night.
Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge and experience!!!!
Visiting the pit area of top fuel after a run is just as much a show as the cars making their run. Quite amazing to watch how the crew works around one another.
Great video. instructional with commentary. great balance.. some people talk too much. Perfect Tony!
Loved this video!!
Been looking forward to this build. It's great you're going to show it step by step
Same here!
Great job Uncle Tony, your videos refresh my attention. Wrench for a living 40+ yrs, Helps me regain confidence on classic stuff that learned as a kid yrs.before I could legally drive.
Thank you for refreshing my memory. The only complete rebuild that I've ever did was a 304 AMC. That was 30 years ago. All the knowledge to do this I got from the factory's repair manual. Did not only teach me to get it right but also thought me more English than my whole school time. Now I have to do a Japanese V8 and I hope I can rescue it.
Hey I watched this today
And I could hear things clang and click and even hear everything you were trying to teach
( with out a Screaming, Screeching,howling Guitar or banging drums )
Believe me I like music
But I am not a 12 year old who needs a band to help me stay my attention for more tan 15 seconds at a whack
YOU ARE A GREAT TEACHER and a breathe of fresh air
Thanks much uncle Tony
So glad I recently found your channel on RUclips
Wow Tony, you bring your Soul into these assembly videos.
Geez, nothing more beautiful than a nice old-school rebuild. Makes me hungry.
Thank you so much for this video I'm 59 and I want to build my first engine!!!
Great video Tony. I've been building engines for over 50 years and there's one step I do that's different from your assembly instructions. I install the cam first, or at least put it in the block and remove it to make sure it can be installed. More than once I had a camm that didn't want to fit into the cam bearing. Sometimes it's just a burr on the edge of the bearing that can easily be cleaned up. This can be a real pain in the ass if you encounter this after crank is in. Just what I do, not criticizing your approach to assembly.
That’s a great idea, thanks 🙏
I love your perfect teaching. You have helped me a lot.
Thanks for sharing this
The LT1 in my 1996 Buick Roadmaster sedan is about to turn over 170k miles. And although it still seems to be running strong. I think I'm gonna have to tear it down and give it a cheap as possible refresh. Unfortunately for the LT1 nothing is cheap. But I want to make sure that it continues to run for another 170k miles. So I'm gonna have to bite the bullet and do it. Definitely not gonna buy anything unless it's necessary. Not trying to build a race engine. But I'll probably do some home porting and anything else free to gain any performance. But I can't afford to do anything more than I absolutely have to. I'll definitely be using all the tricks I've learned from your channel. Thanks Uncle Tony
Rings, bearings, seals and a valve job? I think roadmaster, I think 1939: you could build one for grandma or a gangster - didn't matter.
I did just that, even though the L67 (Series II 3800 supercharged) in my 2000 GTP was running just fine at 195k miles, (No strange noises, no leaks, and had great power) I decided to do a stock rebuild. Even though I thought it was running just fine, I found that all was not fine, as every exhaust valve was leaking compression, not a lot, but they still leaked when I filled the combustion chamber with mineral spirits, the intakes valves where just fine, no leaks, but every exhaust valve leaked a little. I also had four pushrods wearing where they contact the rocker arm, and the connecting rod bearings had evidence of spark knock. Everything else was in great shape inside the engine. I had a machine shop clean the block, install cam bearings, and hone the cylinders for new rings, and also had them do a minor valve job using my original valves and springs, they did have to machine the heads flat however. I installed new timing chain, oil pump gears, new pushrods, and new rocker arms from ZZP, I reused the original camshaft and roller lifters as they had NO wear on them and were still in great shape. Now the engine runs better than ever!
Nothing is cheap anymore. Everything is becoming crazy expensive from parts to lubes…
This guy is a bad ass…love his teaching..!
Uncle Tony, are you going to measure the clearance on main journals ? Tight Lines Captain Keith, (oh, I'm building a 496 stroker motor and was just wondering).
One forged piston and the rest original (used) cast? I'm not worried about the balance, as it is notoriously bad from Chrysler, but that's pretty ghetto!! LOL😆 That Crane 302H Commander is a good camshaft, I've used them in many 440s and a friend had one in his '68 Road Runner 383 4spd, and they all ran well. We later put a .509 PurpleShaft in the Road Runner, added 4.30 gears and it was an ANIMAL, but with 3.23s the Commander was a way better choice.👍👌
It's a cast TRW replacement piston.
Wish you where my auto shop teacher back in the days of high school tech.
uncle tony you are a star your tutorial is so easy to understand so glad i have found this helped me no end great content
Very cool Tony. I'm not the handiest tool in the shed & having never built an engine at 66 I know I know I never will, but if I was 20 years younger, I wouldn't be as afraid to try by watching you explain everything so well. Can't wait to see the upcoming episodes. Be well.
You've made home garage mechanics very interesting and within reach. 👍 👍
This could be an asmr video. Nice relaxing big block mopar build.
He is a true master at his craft. Such wisdom. Flip those pistons and move them over. Motor Trend can suck it
On hot exhaust pipe
Yeah, let's believe a guy working out of a storage shed over a guy who's been running dynos for 50 years.
Ive put the thrust bearings in first, but yeah every time you tighten the main cap bolts , turn the crank over same deal with the rod bolts, mocking up the big ends on the rods with the crank out is a good idea too
Would u leave thrust bearing lose to seat on newer hemi engine as well ?
@@moparlif3528 im a ford guy, the deal is to keep crank end play under 6 thou
Dude, got into your stuff when I was working on 70s, 80s Mopar 225s, 318s and 360s. Now I'm still hooked and only working on old Chevrolets.
I'm waiting for my 390 fe to get back from the machine shop. I sent it long block form. I don't do this every day..I am a technician for 32 years and I have done it, ford's and VW's....but I let the fe myths get to me and I wish I would have sent it heads up and crank out. I'm looking at 8 months vs maybe 4... but it is a great machine shop and I don't always have the time or energy after I work on others all day long 😂. only real difference is the rear main seal with the metal wedges that drive in the sides. I was going to swap out the camshaft and I nicked the bearing..so crank has to come out and I figured...go all the way. 144k on it. 73 truck. Ford. but point I was just trying to get at is great video Mrs Tony 😂I watch to keep some of the Ole ways fresh in my head. vs the new aluminum, chains galore engines of today. I would have saved money on assembly but...those guys do it day in and out. I am sure you have been there once or twice in your 50 years. love your knowledge and experience Mr Garage❤
Brilliant ,you take me back 50yrs to my apprenticeship my tutor worked exactly like you except he was always singing.
I use a hose clamp around the bottom of the ring compressor flush (as near as) with the deck to keep the coil tight, prevents any chance of it getting loose and a ring getting upward force if it gets squeezed. Love this channel !
Time to get my 351w to the machine shop.. good stuff Tony..
I like to do a final cleaning / wipe down of cylinder bores or any critical surface with regular ole bleached coffee filters with a dose of ATF on them. seems like the coffee filters are cheap, leave behind zero lint etc and high detergent ATF will remove or pull out the smallest of honing grit or any minute particles. When the coffee filter comes out clean and white you can see just how clean the bores are. If you don't want any ATF left behind the coffee filters will get that last bit out.
This video and every one I have seen are practical down to earth and no BS videos. They are very informative and in practical terms . KEEP making those videos I enjoy watching
Dude great work man. Before there was the interweb their was you. You are legend. The info you give is amazing. Thank you for sharing the info. Cause now people are paying millions for your info. You are my friend a legend
Your the man UTG ! This will help alot of ppl including myself thank you
I’m going to have to research this more and watch more videos that cover this to figure out what’s going on. I know you can check the cam grind to make sure it matches up with what’s ordered. I’m not sure which cam I’d need in the first place before ever checking the installation.
Guess I call the cam company and tell them what I’m going to use the car for and then they will give me an idea of a combination grind which will be best.
I understand the degree of cam needs to be set at the right place. Just don’t know how anyone would do that with a regular timing chain assembly. Seems like you would need an adjustable system. Thanks again for the info. Great and knowledgeable.
You should send a Speed Handel to Nicks Garage because I never saw him use one it drove me nuts seeing him struggle with a ratchet and extension when he could be using a Speed Handle. You are almost assembling that engine exactly as I was taught many many years ago and it always worked for me.I could sort out missed matched caps with my finger nail and have done it for customers several times because your finger nail will always tell you that the parting lines don't match up or they do match. It always works. Reverse offset pins seem to rev up easier if you don't mind pistons clacking. Racing pistons are centered and not offset for a reason, Power! .
Thank you for the rear main seal crush talk. I have never offset a seal. Never had an issue.
My first engine I guided the rods down by hand. Pontiac 400, the hard steel bolts put a nice gash in the cast iron crank. After polishing the nicks down, I did all the rest with 3/8 fuel/vacuum line - no more problems. Most 383 have steel cranks which I believe are a bit more resilient, but you don't want the rod bolts even touching the journals.
My first time here...first video....amazing.....I have watched a few assembly videos now but this one gives me the confidence to do it.....
Heard about you from peg..wish i picked you up sooner...good job explaining the work Tony. Thankyou.
Harbor Freight piston ring compressor? You must be rich! You fancy! LOL. I got mine from the jungle website. LOL
Great videos. I'm re-learning a lot from you as I build a 350 Chevy. Thanks! Be safe!
UTG, broke that down that A kid could understand ..Awesome
I Love assembling engines,, it is just part of me I have never had a fail... you are spot on😎 I never have come up on an engine that wasn't interesting and fun to assemble I've done Ford ,Chevy, Chrysler, Japanese, most all European..4, 6,,and 8 cylinder,, never got a chance on the 10, 12,, 16,, have done many Volkswagen and other Air-cooled engines,, diesel and tractor....
Got a lot out of that ! Every step and every point you made makes total sense ! Very nice job on Explaining the process and your reasons for doing it your way works Great !! Bean to many years for me But you made it seam like it was just yesterday! Thank you
Love your channel.
Please consider explaining “why” more often.
Why no lube between the bearing and the block?
Why no lube below the bearing caps?
I’m guessing it is a question of clearance.
Appreciate the explanation of how to install the rear seal, and why you should not skew or rotate the seal. More of this please.
Thanks
As a novice id like to know the same thing
Preluber from a 15$ bug sprayer and some hose and fittings to go in the oil pressure sender hole and you're good to go,no distributor futzing around required.
You are an artist! Thank you Tony, this helps me a lot during my first V8 rebuild.
Great video. I was surprised you didn't torque the mains and check the crankshaft end play. I take it that it's never been an issue. I like the way you squared up the thrust bearing and the other little tips in this video. Thanks for sharing.
My favorite part of assembly. I also like installing the pistons by bank and not flipping the block back and forth. Nice & neat. Very professional.
Federal Mogul 2 piece seals say to offset the seal in their installation instructions, David Vizards chevy book has it in it also..either way I think it is more important to dab the ends with silicone when fitting them.
i use super glue on the ends works great
Think of it this way, do you offset the main and rod bearings so the two bearing halves aren't meeting at the cap joint? I think the purpose of the offset dates back to the rope wick main seal. It provided an avenue for oil to follow since it was not an engineered fit. It relied on the assembler/mechanic to cut the seal to fit. If it was just a bit loose it would leak. By rotating the seal it minimized the opportunity to follow that joint. With an actual oil seal, Tony's right, they will fit tight and better in the seal cap flush with the block. That element of lack off seal integrity, is no longer a factor.
I really enjoy watching your videos this one on the motor is interesting although I built Chevrolet since I was 20 and now I'm 65 there's a lot of tips and tricks that I pick up from the things you do that always are helping me and you cover such a wide variety of of items that most don't know or don't think of and you have a really good rapport while making your videos it's nice to see people like you doing this taking your time to help others in their world of car endeavors thank you😊
So I picked up a 73 duster with a 225 with an auto for 2300$ car is straight for the most part and clean little rust here and there but I picked it up for me and my 5 year old son cause for that price I just couldn’t pass it up but I’ve decided I am gonna put a 383 in it down the road, and for sure I’m going to look at this video and the other ones for this engine because honestly it’s gonna be my first real engine build and some of the info you shared is gonna come in handy
Wow. Amazing video for us the Diyers. Thank you. Subbed
I've had good luck running them offset especially if the seal comes with that little offset gauge. You could always test fit the seal with the crank out? Could make the difference between a dripper and a 100 percent sealed engine.
One of my favorite channels!!!
and...if the crank jams up when you tighten the caps, loosen then, then strike the caps with a heavy rubber mallet. then tighten and check the rotation again. same for over head cams etc. imho I would use a small bar to lever the crank back and forth - and use a dial indicator while your at it and check the thrust bearing end play
Outstanding Video...All the knowledge that he shares! Hope he mixes it up and does some Old School Chevy's, Ford's, and Pontiac/Olds/Buick Engines! That would be awesome!
Set them bolts on a paper towel or pan to spray em, keep the floor from getting slick. 😉 Never thought I'd ever see Tony do something that I could make a recommendation to improve. 🤣
Dipping cups work best to cut down on the messy floor.
I know. I spray stuff into the trash can. I keep the floor super clean.
using a dipping cup is a good idea, along with a tray mounted on the legs of the engine stand to catch things. Check out coffee travel mug mounts, you can probably find a cheap "beer holder" that lets you clamp a dip cup to the engine block bolt holes or the engine stand so you aren't walking back and forth from the table.
I enjoy putting engines together. I haven't gotten to do it for over a decade now because I just haven't needed too. This makes me want to rip one out and tear it apart just to have fun putting it back together again! I always have problems with the rings popping out of those compressors just as it is going into the block.
Yeah I haven't been in a car engine for a few years myself ,but futzed with a few smaller air cooled ones like a Briggs 20hp v twin.
Kinda funny how much they sound like a Harley with open pipes for a test run.
And it's smaller ,the whole thing fits in a 5 gallon pail almost 😂
I have been building my own motors mostly mopar and Harley motors you do them the same way I was taught I use hand tools to and a good click tork and a pointer torkrench to check for stretch just the way I was taught and I built a lot of early nitro motors to I have a 62Belvedere with a 512Hemi in it it is a happy Hemi in it 1650hp on highly modified factory race Holley carbs I like what you are doing thank you for how to reconditioning batteries.
Tony. I think that this topic is one of your most informative articles that you've done. Very nicely done.
I offset the pistons in my 273 HighPo back in 1970. It ran like a raped ape! It was in a 65 Dart and the 383 Roadrunners I raced/beat thought is was a 340! I told them to check the casting. I was 18 and very proud of my first rebuild. Raced 340's in Super Stock for many years after that.
What about the large chamfer on the rod the direction it goes on right and left bank
I’m just curious did u mount the rods backwards in the pistons first ? Stock rods have a Chanel cut into them and rod bearings too to oil the cam and the chanfer on the crank shaft will not seat the rod or the rod to rod . Rods have a fat and flat side . Fat side to the crank side flat side to rod side
Hey Tony, they say timing is everything just got the last of my parts to build my desoto 330 short block and now I see your video. I've built chevys and fords but this will be my first early hemi. Watching you makes me wish you were a little closer to me. I'm in thorn hill tn. But it's all good! Thanks for the refresher course.
We used to put them in backwards all the time on pop top pistons free 340s
Great assembly tips! I didn't know a lot on my first build at age 19 (350 Chevy, but ran great for 10 years)....35 years later I will use these tips on my Buick 455.
UT I've learned to tap on the outside of the ring compressor lightly a few times then tighten up the bands agin, it helps to get the slack out and the rings go in much easier. your ring compressor appears to be thicker than mine so it is less likely to get caught between the piston and the cylinder bore. My first ring compressor was two tuna fish cans ends cut out, split open and several hose clamps, it worked but what a pain! That was 55 years ago.
One of the best parts of RUclips, thanks UT.
Wow ! I did that job on a Lincoln 430 back in '67...that was 55 YEARS AGO ! Brought back memories as if it was yesterday...thanks Tony and I agree with your build methods.
I use a speed wrench especially to assemble engines. If you don't know how to use one, get better at it. Do not use air or power tools.
power for disassembly hand for assembly
I’ll use whatever I want…
power/air tools are for the young, "instant gratification" crowd
@@Videoswithsoarin Yea, don't do that on the heads of an aluminum block V-8 Benz engine, they have Helicoils in them from the factory so if you ever have to take the headbolts loose/out use a breaker bar to loosen them first then you can use an electric drill, if you do it with an impact, neumatic or electric, it will rip out those helicoils and possibly ruin the block. Not worth the risk.
@@albertgaspar627 hey, I am young and I like wrenches... I don't do a ton of wrenching because I am a carpenter but...
I have had debates with my son for tapping pistons in the same way for years. These days the whipper snappers use machined to size installers (they do make life easy). Just on the thrust bearing, i finish off the thrust toward the rear if running an Auto. Flex plates do just that, flex away from the block (would love to know other thoughts on this). One last thing, i think Ol Unc was going to explain why he wipes off the rod bolts. I assume he was going to explain how it is possible to hydraulic the block from excess fluids. OHHH one more thing i really like the idea of torquing everything together at the end. I have ???? myself on occasion when doing it as i go. Good vid thanks Unc.
One of our local mechanics/ old timer go to guy when hot rodding anything
I stopped by his shop shop one Saturday
He was mixing his pre lube Lucas oil additive and engine oil and graphite till it makes a past
I use the rubber heat shrinks for the connecting rod bolts. Mostly because that was what I had and it felt thick enough to protect the journals.
Thanks for the info, 1st I have heard about backwards pistons.
A couple things: I will always torque my crank before pistons, so you can check ease of spin. AND - You should have mentioned the BB Dodge has the little hole to give some oil to the opposite piston, whereas Chevy doesn't. Dodge you'd have to turn the pistons on the rods to install backwards, but Chevy doesn't matter.
Good primer on assembly Tony! It amazes me that people don't understand why not to use power tools on engine assembly. How can you sense bad/inferior thread engagement with power tools? And lubing the backside of bearings? amazing. I think a builder needs to understand how an engine actually works firsthand, before turning wrenches and throwing money/time/good parts away.
Great tip, this will work just as well on my Pontiac 400. Thanks for sharing UTG.