Torquing Mains, Rods And Cylinder Heads For The Home Engine Builder
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- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- Everything held together with fasteners has a proper tightening sequence and value, but there are certain assemblies in an engine where those things are critical.
Here's a rundown of those parts and procedures along with why we use a certain type of torque wrench and why the controversial "double click" is a good habit to develop.
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This is something Tony missed in Words, but watch his elbow, and his wrench hand. It's always on the same plane and he tries to keep his hand in the same spot on the wrench. That's TOTAL experience in motion doing this stuff. He keeps his body in the same plane so as you are doing all this, you are coming to the torque with a nice "smooth" motion. I don't know.... watching him doing this is EXACTLY what my dad taught me years ago, and it took a few times before I got the hang of it, but if you watch Tony's body, hands, motion, stance, etc etc etc while he's doing this, you will pick it up really quick.
Great Video Uncle Tony.
Y'know, I didn't even think to mention any of that but I'm glad you did!
Positioning of body and wrench are extremely important for consistency. You can see when I got to the #2 main, I was struggling to maintain position as the engine stand wanted to move...but I was thinking more camera shot than best angle for the job. I gave in and stepped to the side for the #1 main. Shooting off the Gopro I didn't know if I'd still be in the shot, and I wanted to run this with as little editing as possible...showing the true flow of the job for someone who has never done it.
Great fourm lmao ✌️
U.T. has some guns.. Ain't no weakling by any means...
I always cringe when I see usually young guys use the wrench and not pull the way your talking about. It's like fingernails on the chalk board
I use a calibrated elbow, torque is only for dry threads.
Years ago I taught Automotive Mechanics in Trade School for a couple of years. I always had a " Talk on Torque" where I essentially said the same thing Tony is saying. You should have seen the looks on kids faces when I told them that what "torqueing a bolt" ACTUALLY was , was the process of spring loading a piece of steel and stretching it so that it would hold two pieces together properly. I had some kids try and argue with me because they had never thought about it. This is one of the few times that I have ever seen it explained correctly on the internet, the place that FACTS go to die. Tony knows of what he speaks and deserves to be listened to. Job well done Tony!!!!!!
And a properly torqued bolt is already pre-tensioned, so when it performs its job it can do so without stretching much more, keeping stuff from shearing off or moving otherwise.
Our shop teacher once told us that our elbows weren't torque wrenches. Well, he didn't know my elbow very well 😄
I always take the time to go more rounds torquing than what the manufacturer specifies. For tasks like these, I'm never in a hurry
"is this entertaining?" "i hate people watching me work"
honestly I was listening and vibing thinking of other things while you were torquing. cool vid great info 🤙
For us old guys… it’s total conformation we did it right. For the Young guys it’s perfect explanation for what we screwed up when we were young.. uncle tony does it right the first time!! Thanks for your time. It’s truly about keeping the “ language” alive!!
I think I learn something from every single video of yours I watch. Even the most seemingly rudimentary topic like torquing bolts, I take something away. I never knew about the logic behind the double click. Makes great sense! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, Tony!
Classic Car Culture Leader UTG
Even though I know better, I always seem to pinch my finger or thumb at the torque wrench fulcrum - just as it goes CLICK.
Tony is A PRO !!!
I love your videos. I’m a 60 year old woman rebuilding my first engine and I have gotten so much knowledge from your videos. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
did he just say "conversely?"
I love this guy. this is unscripted and unrehearsed . gold.
Dud , you are such a great teacher , it has help me so much to watch your tutorials. I am the kitchen first time ignorant engine re builder..! i have an old boat we took the engine out to refresh it, is a chevy 350, 5.7 vortec Small block and i been watching as many of your videos as i can. I learned so much, Thank you very much Sr. !!!
10:20 someone told me long ago to stand on the engine stand.
It's kinda fun ,you usually end up rolling a few feet around as you torque if it's a smooth floor.
This video series is a good replacement for the long forgotten shop class.
Hey unk your like the best uncle anybody could ever have thanks for everything you do for us👍👍
good insight to think of a bolt as a spring.
Great. Visual. Demo....with. outstanding. Verbal. Support.... sometimes. There. Is. Just. No. Words. To. Amplify. The. Actions. Of. Experience....as. well.as. it. Is... Demonstrated. Here.. torque.. spec.s.... and. Sequences...help. consistent. Assemblies. From...shop. to. Shop...and. from. Mechanic...to. mechanic..... well. Done. ......Have. A. Nice. Day.....
U.T
speaking in simple language.
explaining it so simply.
thoughtful even to bring in some good tips.
dig ur language.
well documented.
Yes, we really do like to watch you work
Absolutely got something out of the video,I like the assembly and torquing system that you use, it is a good way to make sure that nothing is not done right
This is so timely. Just dropped off my block to the machinist to get hot tanked, inspected, bored for the new pistons, and checking the crank to make sure it is still in specs and true. I am going to be putting it all back together as soon as they come back. Really like your channel. Found it a while ago, and have been slowly working my way through the videos. I have been around motors and tinkering with the rest of the vehicle my whole life, but it never hurts to see it done again. You seem to be a guy that you could wrench with a bit, slap some brats and burgers on the grill, then crack a few cold ones with afterwards. Keeping it real, and down to Earth. Not expecting everyone to have $100,000 wrapped up in the garage and so spotless you could eat off the floor. Love it.
I most definitely got something out of this video. I appreciate your years of building engines. I would much rather learn from an experienced person than some young “know-it-all” out of some school (not knowing who taught him). Before I had to go out on disability, I was a commercial locksmith for 25 years & I did the same thing with locks. You pin the lock & check it, you pin it for the master & check it, each time you do something to the lock, you check it. That way if there is a problem you know where to look. Great job! Keep it up!👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great vid Tony, I learned something I didn't know - winding the wrench back to zero 😮
As soon as Tony mentioned that I paused the video and went to check my tool-box. Sure enough: I found 1 Torque Wrench that I'd forgotten to set it back to Zero - THANKS TONY !!!
Surprised you didn’t know that
@@yeboscrebo4451 I did know that. Uncle Tony just gave me the reminder so that I could audit my own shop practices.
I shall re-double my efforts toward my proper care and maintenance of my tools, as my mantra.
first time i used a torque wrench... my dad said he would kick my ass (not really... id just get yelled at lol) if i didnt turn it back to 0
.
.
like 15 years later.... its just a natural habit
.
i dont have to go check.... because i KNOW they are all at 0
I always put mine back in the case that it came in. In order for it to fit in properly it has to be set to 20 lb/ft
It's good advice. I bought a 440 short block that had loose cap when I took it apart. The crank ended up being cracked where the cap was loose.
Once again, simple stuff, but really crucial stuff that can be easily overlooked.
That was soothing for those of us stuck in wrenching limbo right now. That's a happy bottom end. Are you Bob Ross's nephew?
It's enjoyable because it is visceral. There is the visual angle of the handle and the feel of how much force it takes to make it turn as it gets tighter. All the same types of bolts with their specific torque settings should feel the same as they tighten. Then there is the feel and sound of turning the crank. The sound of the rings on the honed cylinder walls you get accustomed to.
For other fasteners that need to be just tight, you get a feel for the bolt's springiness as it becomes tight enough. If you over tighten the bolt you will feel it give and you get that gut reaction of uh oh. There is also a different feel as the threads become galled. You get used to it and will know when to stop and fix the threads or replace the bolt. If the bolt head is starting to round off or a cheap socket cracks you'll feel it before anything else. You will also get a feel for the thread tolerance or play if a bolt is worn or wornout.
The washer topic is it's own beast.
When building an engine, you never want to have an "uuh ooh" moment. I have had that moment, but it was easily corrected!!
Zen.
Absolutely! Well said! That's one of the points Tony made in his last video saying, I have plenty of power tools etc. but choose to disassemble and assemble with hand tools so I can feel the connections and what have you.
I love doing things the old school way, imo,the proper way.
Thank you for sharing this with us guys and it's great to hear people learning and appreciating this, regardless of how much experience some of us have or don't. I truly love being a gear-head!!!!!!
Uncle Tony
Your action was poetry in motion.
1. Hand on the handle - not closer up which does affect the torque applied
2. Forearm 90 degrees to the wrench - AND HELD LEVEL ON THE SAME PLANE
3. At all times totally smooth action
4. Body perpendicular and holding the block square to the wrench at all times....
OUTSTANDING.....!!!!! -
PS the best torque wrench is a Warren & Brown Deflecting Beam Aussie made + or - 2% accuracy
Clicker wrenches........ Meeeeeeh...... = or - 4% as a rule
And i watched a review that showed to get the 4% or better with a clicker you have to 'warm up the wrench' beforehand
What that means is you have to put a bolt in the vice and work the wrench up in 10% increments and down again in the same manner because that puts some heat into the internal spring and the grease covering the spring...... which otherwise causes excess internal drag and inaccuracy when they are used stone cold....... so temperature is a ting with clickers........
Deflecting beam you don't have to do that they are bloody good - all the best from Melbourne Australia...!!
I always wondered how accurate clickers are. Clickers are kinda useful in tight spots where you can't see the reading on a beam, but I never heard of the warmup procedure. Makes sense, thank you. UTG comment section is one of the best on RUclips! Greetings from Florida!
@@Face2theScr33n
Yes
I'm afraid its all true....!! - and makes sense because the grease internally goes a bit stiff with temperature and age of the wrench...... I'm sure that RUclips video is out there somewhere but you can google it.... - springs do also lose tension with age... and go stiff stone cold......
Cheers mate to our American Brothers......!! I'll put a shrimp on the barbie for ya.......!
U.T. is spot on here, for any Newbs though, Torque everything possible, it will give you the feel. Also, use a paint pen to keep track... did I torque that? Then you know... God bless U.T. and thanks! Another good practice is to roll the engine 1 rev after you torque each bearing, it don't hurt. You might could save a headache...
If there's any high school's left that teach Automotive mechanics Uncle Tony's this should be one of them they should be watching
WHen I was in HS, 1984-88, I had auto shop, and our teacher was a DRUNK, he always had that red face, and a cauliflower nose. He rarely taught class, but he was knowledgeable when he did. He was a nice guy, so we never complained, it was a hell of alot better than "english" or "social studies" that's for sure. When I graduated HS, the class no longer existed, sad. I think the availability of such classes are left up to the individual schools and their yearly budgets.
@@quicksilver462 I totally agree and I think my high school start phasing out Auto class just after I graduated in the mid-90s
My Step-dad used to say "I love work, .. I could watch it all day."
I'm not criticizing Uncle Tony at all, the guy is a true master, but I'm surprised he didn't mention ( for the true beginner )
that it's important to not use an extension on a torque wrench to maintain accuracy.
That very question occurred to me while I was watching.
You couldnt be more wrong. A straight extension will not effect torque only the distance from the handle to the bolt will.
@@Ticeracing33 The distance between the torque wrench handle and the bolt head will change leverage, not torque.
The distance between the head of the torque wrench and the bolt head will decrease torque applied to the bolt as that distance increases.
Another excellent educational auto shop video on torque specifications, torque wrench and how to torque the main and rod bearing bolts. Like I have said before, you should teach auto mechanics at your local community college. I know they would hire you in a minute. Plus, good pay to do more fun car stuff 👍
When torquing bolts, work inside out. From the middle outwards. Especially when working with second hand stuff, never spin the assembly before every bolt is torqued. Cap crush makes the bearings round, so the thickness of assembly lube affects the bearing surface. Also, always assemble warm parts, unless they need to be press fitted.
On some assemblies, like the cylinder head, the manufacturer will specify a torqueing sequence; follow that if stated.
Agreed Tony . I also double click when doing torquing specs .
Good advice on backing off the wrench settings after using your clicker type tourqe wrench. I've seen a bunch of guys leave theres tight and never know it could screw with the calibration of the wrench. It's also one of thr reason I bought a digital tourqe wrench because there is no need to remember to back off the setting back to zero. They are expensive but they are ready nice. Plus I always have the clicker for back up
Yeah I saw a vid recently that the guy said don't dial it way off ,just put it on the lowest setting.
@@MrTheHillfolk I didn't know that, I've always back mine all the way off. It's still with in spec though. Where I work I can get it tested and recalibrate it for free so I took all mine in and had them done. Out of 4 of them I had one bad one and it was a snap on. My cheap ones passed.
I've always been a double clicker too, recently after discovering what is known as "instructions" for said tourqe wrench (at least one in particular seems to come with "instructions") they suggested there is a special grease inside the clicker mech that is only accurate after a first click that spreads this grease, then the second will be good. Seems a bit of a stretch but they wrote it. Also I recently set up a crush sleeve on a chevy 10 bolt and my 1/4" clicker would not work to measure bearing preload so a beam type in inch/lbs was the solution. Also recently heard all tourqe specs are for dry threads, unless otherwise specified. Great video as always good sir, thank you
Great video Uncle T! Another point on tool care: don't use a torque wrench as a breaker bar, you can wreck the calibration.
For a series of bolts(head, manifold), I mark my starting, no. 1 bolt w/paint. Has helped many times when interrupted.
Great video Unk. Definitely can't go wrong with that procedure. Personally, I like a beam or dial wrench. They are a pain 'cause for me I need someone to read the torque while I SLOWLY apply the last 10 pounds. I don't like trying to re-start the bolt movement. It's more of a feel thing
I absolutely got something out of that. I never understood the torque plate before now. Good explanation that I intend to plagiarize!
It is extremely easy to over torque with a digital beeper torque wrench. I like the display and getting really specific with the torque, but I prefer the give of the clickers. Now clickers are not good at low torque. They are hard sometimes to tell if it clicked and usually you went over and never felt it. For my work, it depends on what I am doing. Digital for low toque (up to 25lbs) and clicker for everything else.
It's better to over torque a little than under tighten
I'm with you on clickers, which is why I have several ranges in the box. I feel comfortable using the 20-90% range on any of them. Outside that, I change wrenches.
@@markschmalenberger8301 haha that's why our shop ,on the damn Briggs air-cooled home standby gennies has been doing it wrong on replacing head gaskets for about 7-8yrs now and haven't had a comeback.
They say dry head bolts ,and 220 inch pounds.
I say lube them and give em 21 foot pounds.
About 3 pounds over ,plus lubed threads equals no more comebacks.
100% agree on clickers. Ever since I swapped I haven’t gone back. Easier to get a more accurate torque.
Omg, just got this info BEFORE i was just going to do my first head tightening. Thanks!
Something to note: if you have an old torque wrench that has been laying around in the box set to 110lb ft for 8 years and you don’t trust it, you can get them professionally calibrated. It’s not expensive and it’s a good way to start fresh and be confident in your tool. If you are in to building top tier race engines, may be a good idea to get it done every couple years.
Thanks Tony. I am like you I don’t like to be watched while working. I will be doing a you tube soon on a 2015 Dodge Challenger quarter panel replacement. Thanks again!
One thing you might mention about using a torque wrench properly - especially with the clicker type - is you HAVE to do your sweep with the wrench in a slow, smooth motion. If you jerk the wrench hard/fast, you're almost guaranteed to get a false click. I see amateurs make this mistake all the time, especially with big nuts/bolts that require alot of torque, like lug nuts. Lots of times you see these guys who don't know how to use a torque wrench properly jumping on them until they get a click, and doing it like that is almost guaranteed a false click. You have to use a smooth, slow pull on a torque wrench to get an accurate click. I could see you doing this, but guys that don't know might not have picked up on it. I'm a double clicker too, I don't care who doesn't agree with it lol. I like having the confirmation from the second click that the first wasn't false.
I've always considered the two numbers specified to ensure that the fastener is in smooth motion when the click is achieved. You need to keep above the breakaway torque value that occurs from a dead stop. If you get a click before the wrench really moves the fastener, I turn back some degrees in order to get a reasonable rate of motion. Oh, and of course make sure the hole is empty before inserting a bolt.
I was going to post something like this too. The breakaway torque is always higher than the running torque. This is also why the double click does not hurt the fastener's torque value.
Exactly, and it's why the double click is a complete fallacy. Smooth motion to the first click is paramount. The second click is a piece of mind click. It does nothing to the torque of the bolt. Which is why anyone who wants to do the double click, you just let them do it, because it does nothing. ;)
Great points, I was going to say the same thing. "Sneaking up" on the torque is okay, but make sure the torque wrench clicks while you are actually turning the bolt. If it doesn't, the bolt is likely undertightened because the breakaway torque (torque required to turn a stationary bolt) is significantly higher than the torque while the fastener is turning. Don't believe me? Tighten any fastener to any torque value, making sure the fastener is turning at a decent rate when the torque wrench clicks. Now try to loosen the fastener at the same torque value. You will see that your torque wrench will click before you actually break the fastener loose.
@@averyalexander2303 i thought I saw one of those main cap bolts Tony sneaked up on c lick on a second pull but not the previous pull with no movement before the click. Hey uncle Tony go back and recheck those main cap bolts.
@@markschmalenberger8301 I thought I saw that too, but it's hard to say for sure on a video.
Also, when torquing bolts, don't use an extension. The flex in the extension will throw off the torque reading. If you have to use an extension for some reason because of space constraints, then use the shortest extension possible. The longer the extension, the more it will flex. On most applications it probably won't matter. But it's still good practice
This is good advice too
ruclips.net/video/tRR96ILGORU/видео.html
For me, a "Double-Clicker" too. The 1 that means the most is....[Torque-Figure]=[Bolt-Stretch]=[Bearing-Crush]
My brake caliper mounting bolts do not have bearings
@@RwP223 CORRECT!
I loved seeing a straight torque setting applied to the rod bolts rather than fiddling with a bolt stretch gauge.
Uncle Tony, what are your views on using bolt stretch gauges and also torque plus angle specs?
One thing I would suggest is to install locking casters on the engine stand.
I was an electrical engineer at a company that made excavators. As such, the boss had me do a lot of non electrical stuff. Once, I had to "design" a big metal tube to act as a spacer so that longer bolts could be used. I asked "Why are we doing this? Why not just use the shorter bolts?" The answer was just what Tony said. Bolts are really springs. The longer spring can stretch more, and apply more force to the joint.
I hate to admit this, but if there's a torque spec in the book I use it. Even if it is a fender bolt, or a plastic trim bolt. I'm just horrible at "feeling" or knowing what is "tight enough" and not "too tight."
When I was a truck driver, a truckers magazine had an article about bolts. It said they were like springs. They can be overtorqued without breaking, and stretched to a degree where they will no longer have a spring effect. Then they will never stay tight.
Interesting concept on the bolt spacer here, embarrassingly I am confused, does not compute. Specifically, the example in my mind I'm using to compute this concept is: say we have 2 bolts of the same material and diameter, but of different lengths, then why does the maximum force change if there is no change in the cross-sectional area or material properties. The longer bolt would physically stretch a longer raw distance, but proportional the the length of the shorter bolt so it's nothing to do with max force. I may have forgot my materials lessons and got it wrong here.
@@RwP223 it's not the force of clamping that changes, but the reliability of the clamping load that changes. Think about a rubber band holding a weight on a fishing scale. If you have 2 identical thickness rubber bands but one is short and the other is long you can illustrate this. Hang a 1.1 ounce weight on the short rubber band and measure the length and say it stretches from 1 inch long to 2.1 inches long. Do the same with the long rubber band. Pretend that it stretched from 2 inches long to 4.2 inches long. The percentage that they lengthened compared to their length is the same (they both doubled their length, but the length that the long band stretched is 2 inches on the long band, and only 1 inch on the short band.. Now take a .9 ounce weight and hang them. You'll notice that the longer band stretches 1.8 inches to 3.8 while the shorter band stretches from 1 inch to 1.9 inches. This illustrates that for a given tension on a loaded member, a longer member gets "more longer" than a shorter member.
Now imagine that our goal is to maintain tension as reliably as possible, under all conditions, etc. Using the thought experiment of the rubber bands, we could say our desired tension for our system to work is 1 ounce of load on a rubber band, and your only way to replicate it is to stretch the band to a set length using imperfect measurement techniques.
The longer band will be easier to control the tension based on length, because you have a wider length target that you know will produce the desired 1 ounce tension. You know from the previous experiment that the desired length of the 1 inch band under 1 ounce tension is 2 inches. you also know that the desired length of the longer band is 4 inches.
If the acceptable tolerance is 1 oz +/- .1 ounce, you can see that the short rubber band system has to maintain a length of 1.9-2.1 (.2 total tolerance) inches to keep its tension in the acceptable level.
The longer band needs to keep its length between 3.8-4.2 (.4 total tolerance) inches to maintain its tension. This is a 2x improvement in ability to hold proper length vs. the shorter band.
That length of stretch is what you're attempting to achieve when you torque a screw. What you gain by using a longer screw is more ability for the screw to absorb the minute changes in the clamping height vs. that of a shorter screw.
Clear as mud?
@@merr6267 Makes sense in this new light for sure, thanks for laying it out!
Torque of a screw (bolt) is also related to the length of thread, the diameter of the screw, and the force used to tighten it. Washers are often forgotten and that can drastically effect the clamping force and torque value.
I used clicked torque wrenches and double clicked for years. Recently though, I bought a fancy, digital torque wrench and I really like it. Now, I double beep lol! I did keep my clickers though just in case the batteries die in my new one.
Thanks unc
I would to confirm you have the right tork specks.
Great vid UT, as they say, seeing is believing...Try to always use a short socket to limit sideloading, otherwise you won't get a true value. My pet peeve's are to have my other hand on the head of the torque wrench to ensure "perpendicularity", particularly if having to use a long socket for clearance. The other is as you're sneaking up on the value, make sure the last pull is at least a smooth continuous 1/4 turn to "the click". Also, to avoid a "damn it", check you're surroundings to make sure that last pull isn't going to be interrupted by an obstruction, i.e. torqueing a head on an engine installed in the vehicle.
Always Good, Thank You Uncle Tony!
Awesome video Tony!!!
Great technical information Tony 👍🏻. Keep it coming.
Great instructional vid UT, I've used all 3 flavors of TWs, the Beam, Dial, & Click types, in my experience the High$ Dials were consistently more accurate but not so handy 'cause it's hard to always be above the dial where you can see it on those high torq. bolts, usually takes 2 people to get it right, especially on the diesel headbolts, the Beam were just as unhandy for the same reasons, but the Clickers are by far my Fav. too, because they're so much more convenient, as long as like you said to make sure and remove the tension before storing it.
We had 1 of those niffty lil Calibration testers for our TWs and we'd check everyone of them each month or so if they didn't pass we'd give them back to the tool truck guys for recalibration. Keep'em coming. Love watching you do these videos.😎Salute😎
Wanna see how flexible a block is ?
Put a garden hose on the water pump inlet and block the thermostat outlet.
Yep watched a guy in the engine shop forget to pull the thermostat before doing a test run on a Perkins 4cyl diesel and kicked on the hose.
You could see the water jackets expand like 3/8 of an inch.
You'd swear you were on acid and the walls were moving.
Aww damnit I misread the title….. I thought that I was gonna see Uncle Tony tWeRkInG 🤣🤣🤣
Just me personally i prefer a 3/8 drive for the rods a 1/2" for the mains and heads.. just a better feel to me
Uncle tony ive seen a few of the last how to books on cars without all the torque specs on somethings . just before they went to cds and to the net. I knew motors had these type of specs and my old 77 chevy blue book had every torque spec .
If you're going to torque something the first thing you have to make sure of Is that the bolt holes are clean of all debrie before you even insert the bolt
I've found it very common to go back to the 1st bolt in the procedure and find it loose again.
Run each stage until there's no movement.
Usually that's on things like heads and bigger items that it's very noticeable.
I agree, and believe the quality of all the surfaces involved and the bolts play a role. some metals are really soft especially with wheels
Another good practice is after torqueing one thing, rotate the engine. If it isn't free you know where your problem is. If you torque all the mains then rotate and its tight, you need to check all of them to find the one that has a problem.
Proper torque specs for any fastener is 1/4 turn before it breaks.
Or if in a unionized trade.
1) Reef on fastener until you hear a crack.
2) Turn back fastener 1/4 turn.
3) Have the apprentice finish the job.
Uh, no. Every single fastener in a vehicle has a torque specification without exception. The machines that screw them in are capable of breaking every single fastener. They have specifications. Most fasteners though, it snug and then a 1/4 turn, maybe more on large fasteners.
@@tarstarkusz final step, strike end of wrench with hammer
@@graham2631 The universal tool.
@@tarstarkusz "FORD" wrench!
In your first video of this engine build you oiled the main cap bolts. You were going to explain why later. Did I miss something? Curious why. Keep up the great videos.
It just helps with the block (or any threaded object for that matter) threads not “ galling “ on the bolts and causing a false reading when torquing them down. I use a CRC spray bottle on the mist setting to shoot all mine
He said not to over oil the bolts. My guess is that sometimes you can hydrolock the bolt in the bolt hole. When ran in fast with impact or even just being torqued it could crack the casting.
@@docfischer7291 Thank you Doc. That answers my ?.
@@timg2776 Yes Tim I got that part but was wondering why oil the bolts to begin with.
Lol UTs arm knows the torq. When you do it enough... You just know!!! Great video.
Thanks Tony.
Some engines require a micrometer reading of bolt stretch (big end of rods) rather than a ft-lbs rotary torque. Neat stuff.
I double click too.
Torque is an attempt, depending on the material of the fastener, to stretch the fastener close to but not exceeding the yield point of the material of the fastener. Where possible for example with rod bolts, many engine builders will measure bolt stretch in place of a torque figure to properly tension a fastener.
great stuff Uncle Tony. got any insights on internally vs externally balanced rotating assemblies?
I get your double click method. I usually wait 24 hours before I recheck the torque on the bolts. Even done videos of it showing why. Things just got to settle.
Yes. Very entertained !
Learned the hardway on rear caliper mount bolts, I thought it was Good'n'tight and I thought wrong.
I've always been at least a double clicker when torquing anything. I will keep going until I get a click with no discernible movement of the fastener. A third click is acceptable but if the fastener keeps moving too many times before the clicks then I will remove the fastener and examine the threads closely for visible wear and if I can't see anything with the naked eye I will measure the thread diameter and compare with a "good" fastener.
I remember when I first heard about torque-to-yield specs. I found that amusing as any fastener is torqued to yield even if the yield is very tiny because, as Uncle Tony put it so eloquently, all of our threaded fasteners act like springs.
One trick that I use, especially for aluminum heads, is to find the biggest, chunkiest washers I can find to spread the clamping effort. I've done this ever since I disassembled an engine and found that the stock washers had imprinted into the head by a couple or so thousandths. It's never happened with oversized washers are used.
To keep everything leveled properly, to keep it from coming apart, if you want to go further use safety wire/cotter pins/cable locks
Good stuff Tony! Yes I got something, no it’s not boring, yes I hate being watched too.
Superb vid. Thx. Keep it up.
I love torque
The second click is static (stationary)friction, so it's not as accurate as the first click (dynamic/moving) friction, but is a good habit for the reason given. Also dry torque specs are much higher than lubed specs, often nearly double.
Very informative and yes I do like watching you work (not in a creepy way).
Lubrication is a very important factor also. Unless the service manual says otherwise, lightly oiling the threads and the underside of the nut/bolt head with clean engine oil will reduce friction and help the fasteners tighten evenly without binding. Dry threads and friction surfaces are a no no when trying to accurately and consistently torque fasteners.
Some bolts call for thread sealant, rather than oil. When sealing bolt threads, I use anti-seize under the bolt heads, instead of oil that can run into the threads.
@@jimjungle1397 Good points, some bolts do need sealant which is why I said "unless the service manual says otherwise". I wouldn't use anti seize inside an engine since it has metallic particles in it. Not something you want floating around in the oil. Regular grease could be a viable option, but I personally wouldn't use it if it isn't specified because different types of lubricants will affect the torque values. Would oil vs grease under the head affect the final bolt stretch enough to actually matter? I have no idea, but I'd rather not find out the hard way.
@@averyalexander2303 Sometimes I have used thick EP grease under the bolt heads, not oil when sealant is needed.
In a perfect world everything would be a stud and you would torque the nut. I tried to explain this to people when I was torquing nuts on aircraft in the Air Force. I worked on aircraft in the 1970s and it wasn't until I think the late 1990s that the Air Force actually came out with an order to make sure that you torque the nut, not the bolt. They had had several aircraft out of the sky because people were holding the nuts and torquing the bolt and that doesn't work. When the torque spec is designed primarily for nuts, not for bolts. That's why head studs are far more effective at clamping Force than head bolts. Another good idea for why you would click a head bolt four times or better. Or even raise it by a few pounds. And torque to yield was a fix for this but then all you do is cause the bolt to fail when you apply the torque.
When I had originally looked at the episode title, I must have quickly, possibly too quickly, glanced at it and I chuckled to myself. Thought it said twerking and not torquing. I should wear my reading glasses more- lol.
That thing about springs in the torque wrench getting sloppy, its the same argument as keeping magazines loaded full of rounds for years. Some people say it wrecks the spring tension. There are some videos out there about it, the conclusion of them is that springs wear out through use cycles and not being compressed for long periods. Its not like you put your car on jack stands every time you park it to save the springs... not telling people how it is just a thought that came to me when you mentioned zero'ing it out.
Read the book or look on the internet for the ‘foot pounds’ that you need to set your torque wrench to. And it is important to start off the bolt with your hand so you can feel if your ‘cross - threading’. One minor ‘cross - threading’ will result in that bolt coming loose down the line. Be slow with the tightening and feel it coming back into your arm as to notify of any cross threading as your tightening it. If it starts to catch, hopefully its not too late. A mechanic has to be as coordinated as a doctor cutting someone open.
I always torqued using the racer's rule of thumb. Tighten it down until you strip the threads, then back it off one-half a turn. :-D
I thought that was the Jiffylube oil plug rule of thumb?
@@Freedomquest08 Jiffylube, Quicklube, Bubba's Shade Tree Auto Repair and Hot Rod, the list is long and indistinguished. :-D
And if it wants to leak a little after turning it back, remove it and wind some Teflon tape on the threads until you increase the thread diameter by three fifths of the original diameter.
I got electronic ones so I do is three setting always do all my Torx and threes that way I always make sure it's always torque down evenly I also mark my bolts one start work so if I do get disturbed I know where I was left off and I know I've already torque that one because I have a mark on it
Great explanation on the fastener and how it actually stretches and works as a spring when torqued.
I noticed you torqued the mains from back to front - I'm not so familiar with Mopars, is that the torquing pattern recommended by the factory? I just ask because all of the engines I have done had a specific kind of x pattern for main torquing.
When I was in tech school the instructor loosened the rod bolts on a GM 2.8 L just to show how catastrophic failure works. It was the best learning experience I've ever had. Then he said that's what $8,000 boo boo looks like.
Hey uncle Tony. Can you talk soon about degree of angle torqueing?
Sorry to change the subject, but Is that a 67 Valiant? I had one in high school. Plain jane, no options, primer gray, slant 6, three on the tree. Had to park on hills for a month until I could afford a starter. Went through shfter cups a lot from banging gears 😂
The beam type is the best. The way they work is a physical characteristic of the metal. Project farm did a review of torque wrenches, including very expensive clicker wrenches and they were inaccurate as all hell even brand new fully calibrated high end wrenches. There were "large" (whole number foot pound) differences between 3 bolts torqued down one after another with the same wrench.
People think the clikers are better because they are more complex. But the beam type is working by the characteristics of the material which doesn't change.
@@frenchonion4595 Yes. I'm sure the torque specs are plus or minus a couple of percentage points.
But my point is that the beam type is cheaper and the way work is inherent in the design and the material used, which generally doesn't change. You have to get the click type one calibrated once in a while.
Of course, the upside is that you can always get them re-calibrated, while the beam type, if the metal becomes fatigued would need heat treatment to bring it back to spec and as such is basically has to be thrown away or no longer used as a torque wrench.
@Wooden Door Garage That is one of the nice things about the beam type, which is that they can be cheaply made and still be very accurate. A cheap mechanism in the click type make it unreliable. All they have to do is get the material right.
Presumably you can test it by removing a known torque spec fastener. So if you know a bolt has been torqued at the factory to 50 foot pounds, it should take about 50 foot pounds to loosen it. Mine at least has both loosening and tightening scales.
That's one happy bottom end 😂👌
ive had customers kinda get shocked when i told them i didnt torque their screws that hold the air filter box together..... or their P/S pump... ETC
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like... EVERY bolt and screw on a car has a torque spec
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only about 20% actually matter
UT:
I virtually never comment on sights. Loving your channel the way I do and having been such a long time subscriber, I thought it about time to comment.
Question- I just bought a couple brand new click style torque wrenches a little over a year ago from Harbor Freight. I ignorantly stored them without zeroing them out. Do you think that I have ruined thier accuracy?
I'm not UT, but I think as long as they were not stored at high numbers, you're probably fine. I say this, as when I worked at a heavy machinery company, there were very expensive wrenches on the line (4 foot long+) that were calibrated and set at a value for use on the line. They were also clicker style, and didn't drift appreciably between calibrations.
Now, they were also properly designed with proper springs that didn't fatigue at set tensions. Who knows if HF wrenches use properly designed springs that won't fatigue and stretch.
@@merr6267 Thanks for your insight. ✌
Tony, In you're opinion: Will this 383 engine make more power than the Junkyard Jet Magnum 360 ?
I feel like the 383 will make more torque but I was wondering about horsepower.
You're 383 is so easy to duplicate for very little cash outlay figuring that the only aftermarket parts on the whole engine is the camshaft and intake/carbs.
Around my area (central ohio) 383 HP engines are not too hard to find and they are still relatively cheap. Everyone wants a 440. The 440 motor home power plants are fairly easy to come by around here also because old RVs are abound. Magnum 360 truck engines are everywhere but finding one that has been maintained and isn't all used up is hard to do. The old LA 360s are pretty rare because everyone scooped them up back in the 90s to sit on em. Much the same as the chevy 400sb.
when tightening down the caps (main or rod)...and you 'crush' the bearings.... then later you disassemble .... when you reassemble the caps...do you get the same 'crush' ? (kind of thinking like a crush washer....or bearing shells designed for this. I taken apart my caps a few times to measure...but always wondered if the integrity of the bearing shells were compromised in any way.
I use 1/2impact on mains 3/8 on rods no problems in 40 years try it