As a backyard mechanic YT has brought the Golden Age of DIY. I still built things years ago but this kind of knowledge was only available to a few. Thanks Uncle Tony.
I agree. Videos of detailed, step-by-step teardowns are instantly available for most cars on any device with internet access. In the past, you'd need a shop manual for your car and it wouldn't be as good. Way easier now.
@@skeptic3332 excuse me . are you really so immature? . i called you no names .. i'm 67 years old and have turned wrenches for over 50 years .. in garages , 2 dealerships and 2 speed shops .. i read every hot rod magazine with engine articles when i was 14 and still do . Chilton manuals gave rebuild instructions and they've been around since at least the '40s .. when i began building engines i wouldnt hesitate to call a manufacturer tech line , , other engine builders and then 23 years ago i got addicted to the internet .. . go back and read my statement .. BOOKS and then videos .. books with all the automotive knowledge have been in libraries from day 1 .. videos have been out for 40 years .. .. if you worked anywhere of value .. you learned from the other people there ..
@@hitekbigmek honestly it IS far easier to get information now than it was before RUclips. I have all the service manuals and books I needed to do a job but you have to admit when a person shares their knowledge it can be very helpful vs reading a book. context matters
Way back in automotive school they told me break it in like I was going to drive it. You pretty much said the same thing. Thank you Uncle Tony for your vast information. Your information is priceless !!!!
I don't know about that, when I was going thru Industrial Auto/ Diesel/ welding/ Machining,3 years college, ASE/ AWS cert you pick up quite a few tricks of the trade, 1 of the most important steps we were taught was to cycle those engines, regardless if it a 3 hp Briggs, to a 900 Kawasaki to a 400 industrial Dodge. By bringing up the said engin to a certain Rpm for a set time 15 sec (est) that dropping the Rpm back to curb idle for 15 sec , than back and forth for 20 repeted cycles, then raising the Rpm to up 200 rpm then repeat up to 20 repeated cycles ECT Ect ECT to a normal driving speed of 55 Mph, what this does it gives the oil scraper rings time to set by drawing and holding oil on the piston walls,assisting the cross hatched pattern. at the same time compression rings to seat... Seen many rebuilt short block engines lose up to 30 psi per cylinder by missing this step...but that's the way we were taught.
@daleslover2771 I haven't seen anyone be able to truly agree on how to break in an engine. Some say run it hard, some say baby it, some say what you said, and some say just get in it and drive it
I started when I was about 10 years old with my ol grandad building small block Chevys. I love learning from the older guys I remember the first time I went to some drag races down south with him and some of the old timers were running wooden throttle body spacers! I couldn't believe it then my grandad said back in the day we didn't have summit racing we made stuff work lol
These videos are truly a public service. Having someone with decades of experience explain the things that only used to be learned from the school of hard knocks, is totally invalueable! U.T. is a true gem. Not only does he show us things like the ones contained in this video,he shares his tricks of the trade. There was a time,not long ago when you had to get lucky and work for or with a old mechanic who would share this knowledge with you in stead of letting you figure it out and laugh at you when you screwed up. I truly love these meat and potato videos of basic stuff. Even if you start watching and say to yourself ,i already know this stuff,stick around. You will probably hear a tidbit of info that you might not have ever gotten otherwise. In other words,you can stumble up on a diamond.(of information)
You're doing a good thing here man. It's like getting sound advice from an uncle with a lot of experience, using normal language to explain the process. I'm all about the intricate details and all that, but none of that applies without a good foundation where the process is a comfortable experience. Excellent work!
I like to keep a ring in the second slot of the piston I'm using to square the ring into the bore for filing. Just press the piston until that ring is flush on the deck, then reach up through the bottom of the bore to make sure the ring to gap is flush against the piston crown. Makes things more quickly consistent in my experience. Also when deburring filed rings, I make sure to soften all edges, nut just what faces the wall. Top, bottom, and inside as the piston, even forged, are aluminum and softer than the rings and the rings will move around. You don't want any burr that can snag into the piston and start the process of collecting gunk & getting stuck.
Thank you Uncle Tony for touching on the exact subject that I'm about to dive into. Next, I'd be tickled if you'd explain crankshaft and main bearing assembly, do's and don'ts.
Easy quick tips sprin crank after tightening each main or rod cap. This ensures you don't put all the pieces only to find that it is all bound up and won't rotate. Tightening cap spin tightening rod spin crank etc
@@cfmechanic got it. Same as giving it a turn after installing each piston. That way ur not having to pull it all back apart trying to find the culprit.
I'm definitely no gentleman. I'm a piston head dipper 😅 Seriously though, I do like these videos of yours in particular Tony. I'm sure I'm not alone here, in having built or 'refreshed' a lot of engines over the decades, but still learn a little something from these tips. So those new to the game will be learning a whole lot more. Well done!
Priceless advice here years of accumulated experience and its free, we all really appreciate the time you give us Uncle Tony, and nothing you tell us is out of reach of the home engine builder
Love your videos. I’m in my 70’s. They take me back in time when we were building performance sbc 265’s and 283’s in high school auto mechanics shop class,. I’ve rebuilt several stock engines since then but your videos are a refresher class for a performance 406 project I’m starting.
Love it!!! I confirmed that I did everything as I should have on my Buick 455.. just changed the oil after 500 miles.. no surprises. All good. Thanks for putting your videos out. I been at building engines for 40 years.. no way am I a professional. I’m a regular dude that learned the hard way. You may save some young buck from making mistakes the engine can’t survive from. Thanks again.. I learn something every time.
Good stuff! Thanks for the take on the "old wives' tale" about aligning the ring gaps; I always wondered about that because I knew they were supposed to rotate in operation. Timely, too, because I'm about to put rings in my old stovebolt... Cheers!
I just put total seal gapless second ring in my fresh new build and it smokes like mad. It’s just been run on the stand. Did your smoke a lot? Not sure now if I did something wrong or I just need to get it in the car and under some load. Thoughts? Thanks
I know a lot of folks can look at this type of stuff with a headache, but this has been a lot of fun for me. Already replacing the rings and rod bearings, but im planning on doing the valves, rebuilding the carb, and rebuilding the alt just for the fun of it
I'm trying so hard to remember back on the 70s I blew a 440 mag 68 RT. I was going like hell and when I removed the heads I had pieces of rings in the combustion chamber. I believe I was doing over 120 mph.
My friends Dad owned a small AMC dealership in 60s and 70s. They had a ring break in issue at one point. AMC tech bulletin, "Make sure no customers are there. Remove air cleaner. Rev engine and pour BonAmi powder cleanser into the carburetor. Change oil."
Ford had a similar thing. I don't remember exactly what I was told the substance was, but it like abraxo cleaner or some powdered cleaner. Except the dealerships used Ford branded stuff, but it was all the same stuff.
After watching your videos, What I appreciate most, is your common sense, real life experienced explanations. Great advice and tips. Not some windbag trying to impress someone.
I was so fortunate to have Otto Halling and his ring manufacturing in my home town when I went to vocational school come in and explain piston rings to us back in the 70’s! He was the absolute guru about rings!
Uncle Tony, this is one of your best videos. I learned a lot of practical knowledge from your lifetime of experience. I came away appreciating the amazing details of the simplest things like piston rings. Thank you!
Excellent video, Tony. Reminds me of my high school auto shop class, except I actually paid attention this time! You've got a great knack for explaining this stuff.
Like I have said in the past, UT would be a great auto shop teacher. His knowledge of engines is only surpassed by his enthusiasm and tenacity. Great job UT. Keep going 👍
Way to call me out Uncle Tony and we don't even know each other! I'm one of those guys that soaks the whole piston/ring assembly in a bucket of oil before installing them. That's OK, I have a thick skin...I also have a HUGE drip pan under my engine stand lol! Maybe I missed it in the video and, maybe it doesn't even really matter but, when it comes to knocking down the sharp edges on the gaps, I've always made it a habit to file from the outside of the ring toward the inside, especially on coated rings. It seems like filing from the inside out MIGHT cause the coating to chip. I've also recommended doing it this way to others. Have I started my own "wives tale"?
Very informative. Thankful you addressed the lining up ring gap thing, there are folks out there that thing piston rings don't rotate. Another fine video, Tony.
I loved watching you do the gaps. The V6 on my stand is going to be pulled in 60k miles tops I have a pd blower and I'm contemplating nitrous. I was staring through a window trialing the rings til they were .040" gap as I felt too much was better than not enough.
Ton,y I'm a southern boy ,been around a lot of race tracks and been working on stuff my whole life, just like my father before me. I also watch alot of Utube videos. I wanna say that I really like your style, I learn something every time I've watched your videos. I think you did a great job on this video and thank you for taking the time to teach
I am rebuilding my first engine and really appreciate your knowledge and experience with this. It is very much appreciated from Hackensack New Jersey 😁
Get a shop manual if possible. You can do it with a torque wrench, plasigage, and a ring compressor. Keep everything clean and don't work until you're tired. You'll make mistakes. Good luck to ya😊
Thx uncle Tony. Good reminders of what I've learned. Rin in for long life. Drive at operating temp 65% throttle to redline then off throttle for max vacuum. All loads and no constant loab/rpm has made my best long term
Great video series! When I was 17 in my Advanced Auto class I wanted to learn how to rebuild an engine and scrounged around and found a 327 with 461 heads on it. Then tore it down, measured everything and ordered a rebuild kit from PAW. Ordered cast rings, Clevite bearings, high volume oil pump, Victor gasket set, new valves, and a Crane cam. Machined the guides for pc seals, 3 angle valve job on the seats, and even back cut the new valves I ordered too. I thought I was "the man" and then ordered a Holley intake and carburetor. This motor ran great and never used a drop of oil and trust me, we put it through the testing grounds.
I wouldn't add or take away anything you covered in this Episode Uncle Tony, 👍👍👍Perfect rundown of the best procedures on installing pistons and rings.😎
Rings really go on a special way on sbc and bbc. Both rings go on the same for sbc and bbc. By the gm manual for the best oil control as it matters as the crank turns the same way. When you set up one both banks the rings goes on all the pistons the same way. For molly rings to set really right the block needs to be deck honed. Molly rings are hard and won't seal right unless perfect round. I have a 454 with 400 finish I did with a with cast rings. Cast rings will wear in better on a cheap rebuilt. On my 454 I started out running 11:80 and every time I ran it ran 1/10th faster and stopped at 11:30 My big 454 motor with all the right stuff done to it it ran 10:30 and never got better with molly rings. Don't buy oversize rings as there is way to much work to get the end gaps right. I learned the hard way. Buy standard rings they are so close to the gap with just a file a few strokes and you have your clearance. The Gm repair manual says you can have up to .060 gap with no power lost. Only thing they noticed on the dyno was more blow by with no power lost. Myself that top ring could be .025 wide is were I would put it. Especially hypetic pistons which I have seen them blow the top of the ring groves to many times. Never seen that on a cast piston or forged pistons. Hypereutectic piston seems to hold a lot of moisture during warm up. If you get a backfire while playing with the throttle is when it happens the most. I honed my block with a good AMMACO CYLINDER HONE and it was almost .003 oversize and still not completely round with no taper. Those cheap 3 finger hones types are junk. I used forged LS6 piston and it was stock bore size plus.003. That is what ran 11:30 and still runs good after 25 years. I never herd any piston slap either. You just warm it up before you run it hard. I have shifted that motor at 7,000 rpm for years with oval port heads. Solid lifter cam with all chey stock parts and 3/8 stock rod bolts. Just a crane cam and springs. You just need to know what you are doing. I run 20/50 weight oil at 70 lbs of oil pressure at 7,000 I used the stock steel head gaskets which I belived are 019 thick. I should changed the head gaskets but at 70 years old I will when one goes. I hardly drive it anymore. Should sell it it is a 1981 Z28 black with about 3,500 orginal miles with the stock factory paint job on it yet. Last of the second generation. Bought it new in 1981. Years ago I bought like 6 pair of those gaskets from Gm which are no longer available. Don't by those Mr gasket ones they are junk. GM made the best one. Seems like they always get rid of the good stuff. I had a 1969 Nova SS drag car I spent most my time with. The Z28 was just a street car I hardly had time to drive much.
That's me, the guy doing his first engine!!!! Loving your videos man. Only just came across your channel, so have heeps to watch, and loving every minute! keep it up :)
I appreciate your videos . I have a little machine shop experience when I worked in one a kid. I'm rebuilding my supercharged Jaguar s type r . The motor ran but was blowing smoke really bad when I decided to rebuild it. Part of the problem was valve seals where shot. The machine shop said they were in pretty good shape for 235k miles. I checked the cylinder bores the way you showed me with old piston rings . The cylinders are true and not warped. I haven't brought the block to the machine shop yet. I did clean pistons of carbon etc. Some of the old rings were frozen and didn't seem like they were functioning properly. I bought Hastings rings for my 86 mm bore . What's interesting is the old ring gap is . 028 . The new ring gap is . 017-.018. I didnt know the gap could wear that much. I almost bought the dinkleberry hone but after seeing your video Im glad I didn't . I'm gonna let the machine shop crosshatch the cylinders for me. Is it normal for the old rings to be thicker ? The old rings are . 010 thicker . Thanks again.
I was always taught and the only reason I placed the pistons Rings Apart is 180 out on oil rings it brings doesn't matter where they go Just not lined up always try to keep your gap 1st and 2nd ranger off the thrust side of the piston for initial startup excellent video glad you addressed it
Tony I'm glad you cleared up that thing about where to set the ring gaps, because I suspected they would move whenever the engine was running. That was a big worry of mine before I rebuilt the 318, that's going in my '82 Mirada.
As you said in a previous video about where you prefer to be- the know-how-to-do-for-average-greasemonkeys-allovertheworld really IS your happy zone. I just love it!
I’m going to attempt to build my 1st engine for my daily. It’s going to be over bore pistons, all forged internals. I’m cramming all your content. Hoping to start the build this winter and complete it for spring.
Could also be a bad valve seat. Also as tony's pointed out quite a few times the quality of parts these last couple of years has been horrible. I had a bad oil pump, bad starter, 2 bad coils, along with several other things that aren't coming to mind right now on my last build.
Some people baby a new engine ,and the rings don't seat. If rings don't seat in the first 5mins of operation,they won't. Gotta give it some load and get em seated in the beginning,while it's idling high for cam break in give it wide open throttle blasts to like 3000-3500 to load em and get em seated. Some of the old caterpillar cylinder kits used to come with a piece of paper that said do not idle engine more than 5 minutes or risk unseated rings. Engines can handle a lot more than people usually think, that's very common to baby it at break in and have this happen.
@@MrTheHillfolk The heads are all brand new high -end stuff. The engine is a little Fiat 1400cc in a 124 spider. What happened was after the first 50 mile drive, hard on the throttle to 4000 rpm and back down changing and varying my speed the whole time, the chinese knock-off weber (didn't know) decided to break on the next start and the engine went wide open to 8000 rpm. It hasn't run right since, like the timing is off but I can't pinpoint what is wrong so when I get some time I am going to tear it down and see if anything jumps out at me.
Sometime could you discuss chrome rings. Back in the late fifties when I started "overhauling" engines chrome rings were the thing. I used them on several engines. I had problems with them not seating properly and burning oil.
Chrome rings often never fully seat, surface finish is key. Chrome rings are mostly used in offroad equipment where dust and dirt are an issue, such as dumptrucks.
I think back in the day the big deal with chrome rings is that they had a very hard surface. That tends to make them not seat really well, but also means they usually last pretty well.
I always have the bad luck of one of the oil rings popping out of the compressor as it is sliding into the bore. I even bought a fancy one for the reason of thinking it was those cheap band ones, but nope it did the same thing. Break in drives, besides varying the load on acceleration I also like to go up and down hilly roads.
If you’re doing the same bore size regularly the one piece cone style compressors are awesome. That way you’re not fooling with a band and making sure everything stays compressed. They have a little lip that seats into the bore then you can push the piston in and the taper compresses the rings as it goes.
@@backstab335 That is an interesting combo. I love when people mix bits and pieces from other cars and get good results. Ready to set gap for your boost pressure?
@@skylinefever yee, i have it all writen down, but basically i bought someone elses project and found out that one piston ring was gaped way too loose, about 3x the factory gap, so i had to buy full set and regap them myself, also i found out today that with this conecting rod and piston combo i would only have about 6.9:1 compression ratio and it really sucks.. and there is no good option of pistons for my block so my plan is to mill the block and the head atleast 2mm each, that should put me at around 8.6:1 comp, im just hoping it turns out well
Is it normal to get smoke out the exhaust after a full engine rebuild? If so, how long would it normally take to get rid of the smoke? The cylinder walls I would say was honed to a fine finish. I can see the honing marks but is smooth and even to the touch.
Where was this video 49 years ago when I bought my first car, a '64 Nova with a flat 6? It burned oil and also leaked transmission fluid almost as quickly. Thanks for this great video!
Anothet great vid Uncle!!! Ive built many an engine but its always nice to hear...idk... Vindication(?) about some of our methods. One topic not touched on...oil choice for break in...
Great video, just be super careful not to gouge the piston grooves if you use a broken ring to clean them out. Those are precision cut surfaces that must seal against the ring. There are better tools for the job.
Thankyou,thankyou brother for this info. I am currently right in the middle of rebuilding my Ford Ranger motor. It had alot of miles on it,carried alot of weight,(tools), for alot of miles. Thankfully,my dear friend of many years who worked in an engine rebuilding shop is helping me,but he is 73 now and has gaps in his focus. I am a successful carpenter,and good at swapping parts in a car,but engine rebuilding is very demanding and precise,Ive learned after 2 attempts iny life of just winging it myself,both engines blew up.(please,keep the carpenter away from the motor),type of thing. Anyway,thankyou.
Thanks UT! It has been almost 40 years since I last assembled an engine (an FE Ford) and soon I'll be refreshing that same engine so these pointers are great. Do you have any experience with propane as an engine fuel? Any things to watch out when putting together and engine that will run on propane. Thanks again, I really like that range of videos you have on your channel (from carbs versus EFI to rip-off car flippers to the insanity of some aspects of modern automobiles, etc., etc.)
You should contact Lake Speed Jr at total seal and you could do a segment on ported ring and maybe gapless rings?? You’d be really good at it like you were here.
Transmission fluid has more detergents than engine oil and it burns off almost instantly on startup. It also washes away any miniscule grit or dirt that could be left in the bores even after thorough cleaning. Been using it for years and no failures whatsoever
One time I threw together a ford 460 and didn't notice the block was bored 30 over. It ran, didn't burn oil but had an awful noise above 2500rpm and a little extra blowby. Still can't believe it ran with that much clearance...
Haha I got an old beater 76 kd (or ke I forgot) 100 Kawasaki that was sitting 6-8yrs. Little 2 stroke rotary valve deal. Dude told me something was funny and he had the cylinder off but put it back together. Even tho I was a young kid ,I opened it up to inspect. He broke a ring. So we put it together with one and sent it. Oh that was it ,it was bored .010 over but had a std piston with a broken ring. So yeah it ran ,started a little hard and was noisy till it warmed up some. Had a nice slap at low revs high load too. After a month of beating it ,I was flat out one night at a whole 50ish mph riding home and it locked up. Damn circlip popped out and wasted the bore,she's done. It was free and I learned alot and had fun while it lasted.
When I was a kid I had a customer insist on using parts she provided from JC Whitney 😂 they shipped pistons with rings that was ten under what was sposed to be😁 Honda Civic was a smoker, to say the least.. she became a better listener 💨💨💨
@@MrTheHillfolk We used to run just the top ring on our 2-stroke dirt bikes, thinking they'd accelerate quicker. Don't think we actually proved anything.
The second ring is not a compression ring, it's an oil scraper. The third or oil control ring distributes oil upward on the cylinder wall. The second ring clears the wall of excess oil on intake and power strokes. The second ring should be gapped by 1.5 to 2 times the top ring factor to avoid unseating top ring due to overpressure between the top 2 rings.
I thought chromed rings became the norm by the early 1960s. It did a lot to help engines last longer. Moly rings arrived later on some engines, but plain iron was definitely not the norm back then. Allpar's youtube channel often had videos of new engines being introduced. They'd announce when a new engine would get chromed rings. 3:52 The Nissan 300ZX had nitrided steel piston rings from the factory. It might be one reason people could turn the boost up and get away with it. 19:30 Yes, and don't always expect a dot to tell you which side faces up. Sometimes the manufacturer will print on the rings. 20:17 I thought that was to make the ring more durable. Maybe it does both? 23:39 Myvintageiron promotes using WD40. He lives in Arizona, and has been to the Total Seal factory. Even they said WD40 was good. It seems kind of hard to reject advice from someone that auto racing leagues trust. He uses it everywhere, and I have seen him get rings from Hastings and Mahle/Clevite. He may have used other companies, too. 23:44 Machine shops benefit from buying tapered cone ring compressors, if they do enough engines with the same bore. 28:39 That would explain why in some new car manuals, you are discouraged from pushing it hard if you have under 500 miles.
Their are also the elliptical Dykes type ring and the Napier type with the hooked bottom outer edge for certain applications where you might need optimum oil removal .. I have had good luck with Total Seal's Quick Seat powder for breaking in rings and bores. You clean the bore spotlessly (piston too) with ac.etone till a white rag picks up no black marks, then mist the bores with WD40 and wipe it away. Now when you go to apply the powder, if all is done right - the powder will turn green, if the bore is still too dirty or contaminated - it will turn a blackish color.
23:50 the reason you don’t pub-dunk your whole piston in engine oil, is because all of that is just going to turn into carbon deposits as soon as you fire it up. Completely negating the work you did cleaning the ring lands lol. +1 on WD-40
As usual, content and explanation very good. Visual- not so much. Consult uncle Cathy on lighting and close ups please, if I'm not being presumptuous- like you say, devil is in the details (you don't see). Thanks for your knowledge and experience.
Thanks for all your effort you're very informative and your thought processes you call ocd... that's just great work from a great mind ty again sir keep up the good work!! From sw ks caio for now now
As a backyard mechanic YT has brought the Golden Age of DIY. I still built things years ago but this kind of knowledge was only available to a few. Thanks Uncle Tony.
No .. it was available to anyone that desired the knowledge. Books and then videos were everywhere
@@hitekbigmek LOL long before videos . I guess I should have given dates soy boy.
I agree. Videos of detailed, step-by-step teardowns are instantly available for most cars on any device with internet access. In the past, you'd need a shop manual for your car and it wouldn't be as good. Way easier now.
@@skeptic3332 excuse me . are you really so immature? . i called you no names .. i'm 67 years old and have turned wrenches for over 50 years .. in garages , 2 dealerships and 2 speed shops .. i read every hot rod magazine with engine articles when i was 14 and still do . Chilton manuals gave rebuild instructions and they've been around since at least the '40s .. when i began building engines i wouldnt hesitate to call a manufacturer tech line , , other engine builders and then 23 years ago i got addicted to the internet .. . go back and read my statement .. BOOKS and then videos .. books with all the automotive knowledge have been in libraries from day 1 .. videos have been out for 40 years .. .. if you worked anywhere of value .. you learned from the other people there ..
@@hitekbigmek honestly it IS far easier to get information now than it was before RUclips. I have all the service manuals and books I needed to do a job but you have to admit when a person shares their knowledge it can be very helpful vs reading a book. context matters
Way back in automotive school they told me break it in like I was going to drive it.
You pretty much said the same thing.
Thank you Uncle Tony for your vast information.
Your information is priceless !!!!
I don't know about that, when I was going thru Industrial Auto/ Diesel/ welding/ Machining,3 years college, ASE/ AWS cert you pick up quite a few tricks of the trade,
1 of the most important steps we were taught was to cycle those engines, regardless if it a 3 hp Briggs, to a 900 Kawasaki to a 400 industrial Dodge. By bringing up the said engin to a certain Rpm for a set time 15 sec (est) that dropping the Rpm back to curb idle for 15 sec , than back and forth for 20 repeted cycles, then raising the Rpm to up 200 rpm then repeat up to 20 repeated cycles ECT Ect ECT to a normal driving speed of 55 Mph, what this does it gives the oil scraper rings time to set by drawing and holding oil on the piston walls,assisting the cross hatched pattern. at the same time compression rings to seat... Seen many rebuilt short block engines lose up to 30 psi per cylinder by missing this step...but that's the way we were taught.
@daleslover2771 I haven't seen anyone be able to truly agree on how to break in an engine. Some say run it hard, some say baby it, some say what you said, and some say just get in it and drive it
As a mechanic of 25 years and built a couple of low budget performance engines he knows his stuff.
17 thou on ring gap?
I've been wrenching for damn near 30 years and yes he's right on and I learn something from every one of his videos
Chart I have shows 16 thou on na for 4. in plus .004 per inch of bore. So .001 for the 1/4 extra.... 16 plus 1 is 17...
I started when I was about 10 years old with my ol grandad building small block Chevys. I love learning from the older guys I remember the first time I went to some drag races down south with him and some of the old timers were running wooden throttle body spacers! I couldn't believe it then my grandad said back in the day we didn't have summit racing we made stuff work lol
20 years of sticking fingers in butts and this man knows his shits
I don't comment often and I'm only half way through, but great darn episode. You're a great teacher. Something to learn from novice to expert.
These videos are truly a public service. Having someone with decades of experience explain the things that only used to be learned from the school of hard knocks, is totally invalueable! U.T. is a true gem. Not only does he show us things like the ones contained in this video,he shares his tricks of the trade. There was a time,not long ago when you had to get lucky and work for or with a old mechanic who would share this knowledge with you in stead of letting you figure it out and laugh at you when you screwed up. I truly love these meat and potato videos of basic stuff. Even if you start watching and say to yourself ,i already know this stuff,stick around. You will probably hear a tidbit of info that you might not have ever gotten otherwise. In other words,you can stumble up on a diamond.(of information)
I was only 15 when I rebuilt my first lawn mower engine man did I do things wrong! Learned from more experienced people and UTG now gets to an art!
You're doing a good thing here man.
It's like getting sound advice from an uncle with a lot of experience, using normal language to explain the process.
I'm all about the intricate details and all that, but none of that applies without a good foundation where the process is a comfortable experience.
Excellent work!
I like to keep a ring in the second slot of the piston I'm using to square the ring into the bore for filing. Just press the piston until that ring is flush on the deck, then reach up through the bottom of the bore to make sure the ring to gap is flush against the piston crown. Makes things more quickly consistent in my experience.
Also when deburring filed rings, I make sure to soften all edges, nut just what faces the wall. Top, bottom, and inside as the piston, even forged, are aluminum and softer than the rings and the rings will move around. You don't want any burr that can snag into the piston and start the process of collecting gunk & getting stuck.
Thank you Uncle Tony for touching on the exact subject that I'm about to dive into. Next, I'd be tickled if you'd explain crankshaft and main bearing assembly, do's and don'ts.
Easy quick tips sprin crank after tightening each main or rod cap. This ensures you don't put all the pieces only to find that it is all bound up and won't rotate. Tightening cap spin tightening rod spin crank etc
@@cfmechanic got it. Same as giving it a turn after installing each piston. That way ur not having to pull it all back apart trying to find the culprit.
I'm definitely no gentleman. I'm a piston head dipper 😅
Seriously though, I do like these videos of yours in particular Tony. I'm sure I'm not alone here, in having built or 'refreshed' a lot of engines over the decades, but still learn a little something from these tips. So those new to the game will be learning a whole lot more. Well done!
Priceless advice here years of accumulated experience and its free, we all really appreciate the time you give us Uncle Tony, and nothing you tell us is out of reach of the home engine builder
Love your videos. I’m in my 70’s. They take me back in time when we were building performance sbc 265’s and 283’s in high school auto mechanics shop class,. I’ve rebuilt several stock engines since then but your videos are a refresher class for a performance 406 project I’m starting.
Love it!!! I confirmed that I did everything as I should have on my Buick 455.. just changed the oil after 500 miles.. no surprises. All good. Thanks for putting your videos out. I been at building engines for 40 years.. no way am I a professional. I’m a regular dude that learned the hard way. You may save some young buck from making mistakes the engine can’t survive from. Thanks again.. I learn something every time.
Good stuff! Thanks for the take on the "old wives' tale" about aligning the ring gaps; I always wondered about that because I knew they were supposed to rotate in operation. Timely, too, because I'm about to put rings in my old stovebolt... Cheers!
I used a gapless Napier 2nd ring and man am I happy I did. Bottom end has stayed together longer than it ever has before
I just put total seal gapless second ring in my fresh new build and it smokes like mad. It’s just been run on the stand. Did your smoke a lot? Not sure now if I did something wrong or I just need to get it in the car and under some load. Thoughts? Thanks
I know a lot of folks can look at this type of stuff with a headache, but this has been a lot of fun for me. Already replacing the rings and rod bearings, but im planning on doing the valves, rebuilding the carb, and rebuilding the alt just for the fun of it
I'm trying so hard to remember back on the 70s I blew a 440 mag 68 RT. I was going like hell and when I removed the heads I had pieces of rings in the combustion chamber. I believe I was doing over 120 mph.
My friends Dad owned a small AMC dealership in 60s and 70s. They had a ring break in issue at one point. AMC tech bulletin, "Make sure no customers are there. Remove air cleaner. Rev engine and pour BonAmi powder cleanser into the carburetor. Change oil."
Ford had a similar thing. I don't remember exactly what I was told the substance was, but it like abraxo cleaner or some powdered cleaner. Except the dealerships used Ford branded stuff, but it was all the same stuff.
Chevy had this problem when they introduced the SBC. They had the same rule.
Dont do this. I have seen this done. Seized every ring on every piston within minutes. It's like sand. Proper honing is the key and ring gap.
The cleaner is supposed to take the carbon off the rings and pistons
After watching your videos, What I appreciate most, is your common sense, real life experienced explanations. Great advice and tips. Not some windbag trying to impress someone.
I was so fortunate to have Otto Halling and his ring manufacturing in my home town when I went to vocational school come in and explain piston rings to us back in the 70’s! He was the absolute guru about rings!
He owned a ring manufacturing company in Rochester and invented a machine that mass produced piston rings
Do a patent search and you will find he had multiple patents related to ring design and manufacturing
I misspelled his name it’s Haling
Uncle Tony, this is one of your best videos. I learned a lot of practical knowledge from your lifetime of experience. I came away appreciating the amazing details of the simplest things like piston rings. Thank you!
This is my therapy. Thanks Tony.
Really enjoyed the home engine builder series. I find myself coming back and watching segments again. Thanks Tony
Excellent video, Tony. Reminds me of my high school auto shop class, except I actually paid attention this time! You've got a great knack for explaining this stuff.
Best video on piston rings and cylinder installation on RUclips!!! ✅✅✅
Like I have said in the past, UT would be a great auto shop teacher. His knowledge of engines is only surpassed by his enthusiasm and tenacity. Great job UT. Keep going 👍
I'm sure he would chafe at what teachers are paid.
Way to call me out Uncle Tony and we don't even know each other! I'm one of those guys that soaks the whole piston/ring assembly in a bucket of oil before installing them. That's OK, I have a thick skin...I also have a HUGE drip pan under my engine stand lol!
Maybe I missed it in the video and, maybe it doesn't even really matter but, when it comes to knocking down the sharp edges on the gaps, I've always made it a habit to file from the outside of the ring toward the inside, especially on coated rings. It seems like filing from the inside out MIGHT cause the coating to chip. I've also recommended doing it this way to others. Have I started my own "wives tale"?
Very informative. Thankful you addressed the lining up ring gap thing, there are folks out there that thing piston rings don't rotate. Another fine video, Tony.
I loved watching you do the gaps. The V6 on my stand is going to be pulled in 60k miles tops I have a pd blower and I'm contemplating nitrous.
I was staring through a window trialing the rings til they were .040" gap as I felt too much was better than not enough.
Great timing,inputting my 289 bottom end together now,using Hasting rings.
Ton,y I'm a southern boy ,been around a lot of race tracks and been working on stuff my whole life, just like my father before me. I also watch alot of Utube videos. I wanna say that I really like your style, I learn something every time I've watched your videos. I think you did a great job on this video and thank you for taking the time to teach
I am rebuilding my first engine and really appreciate your knowledge and experience with this. It is very much appreciated from Hackensack New Jersey 😁
Get a shop manual if possible. You can do it with a torque wrench, plasigage, and a ring compressor. Keep everything clean and don't work until you're tired. You'll make mistakes. Good luck to ya😊
Thx uncle Tony.
Good reminders of what I've learned.
Rin in for long life. Drive at operating temp 65% throttle to redline then off throttle for max vacuum. All loads and no constant loab/rpm has made my best long term
Great video series! When I was 17 in my Advanced Auto class I wanted to learn how to rebuild an engine and scrounged around and found a 327 with 461 heads on it. Then tore it down, measured everything and ordered a rebuild kit from PAW. Ordered cast rings, Clevite bearings, high volume oil pump, Victor gasket set, new valves, and a Crane cam. Machined the guides for pc seals, 3 angle valve job on the seats, and even back cut the new valves I ordered too. I thought I was "the man" and then ordered a Holley intake and carburetor. This motor ran great and never used a drop of oil and trust me, we put it through the testing grounds.
I wouldn't add or take away anything you covered in this Episode Uncle Tony, 👍👍👍Perfect rundown of the best procedures on installing pistons and rings.😎
Rings really go on a special way on sbc and bbc. Both rings go on the same for sbc and bbc. By the gm manual for the best oil control as it matters as the crank turns the same way. When you set up one both banks the rings goes on all the pistons the same way. For molly rings to set really right the block needs to be deck honed. Molly rings are hard and won't seal right unless perfect round. I have a 454 with 400 finish I did with a with cast rings. Cast rings will wear in better on a cheap rebuilt. On my 454 I started out running 11:80 and every
time I ran it ran 1/10th faster and stopped at 11:30 My big 454 motor with all the right stuff done to it it ran 10:30 and never got better with molly rings. Don't buy oversize rings as there is way to much work to get the end gaps right. I learned the hard way. Buy standard rings they are so close to the gap with just a file a few strokes and you have your clearance. The Gm repair manual says you can have up to .060 gap with no power lost. Only thing they noticed on the dyno was more blow by with no power lost. Myself that top ring could be .025 wide is were I would put it. Especially hypetic pistons which I have seen them blow the top of the ring groves to many times. Never seen that on a cast piston or forged pistons. Hypereutectic piston seems to hold a lot of moisture during warm up. If you get a backfire while playing with the throttle is when it happens the most. I honed my block with a good AMMACO CYLINDER HONE and it was almost .003 oversize and still not completely round with no taper. Those cheap 3 finger hones types are junk. I used forged LS6 piston and it was stock bore size plus.003. That is what ran 11:30 and still runs good after 25 years. I never herd any piston slap either. You just warm it up before you run it hard. I have shifted that motor at 7,000 rpm for years with oval port heads. Solid lifter cam with all chey stock parts and 3/8 stock rod bolts. Just a crane cam and springs. You just need to know what you are doing. I run 20/50 weight oil at 70 lbs of oil pressure at 7,000 I used the stock steel head gaskets which I belived are 019 thick. I should changed the head gaskets but at 70 years old I will when one goes. I hardly drive it anymore. Should sell it it is a 1981 Z28 black with about 3,500 orginal miles with the stock factory paint job on it yet. Last of the second generation.
Bought it new in 1981. Years ago I bought like 6 pair of those gaskets from Gm which are no longer available. Don't by those Mr gasket ones they are junk. GM made the best one. Seems like they always get rid of the good stuff. I had a 1969 Nova SS drag car I spent most my time with. The Z28 was just a street car I hardly had time to drive much.
That's me, the guy doing his first engine!!!! Loving your videos man. Only just came across your channel, so have heeps to watch, and loving every minute! keep it up :)
You are doing the Lord's work Tony!
So if your engine is anything over a standard bore size(030 over), will you have to match it with the ring size as well?
I appreciate your videos . I have a little machine shop experience when I worked in one a kid. I'm rebuilding my supercharged Jaguar s type r . The motor ran but was blowing smoke really bad when I decided to rebuild it. Part of the problem was valve seals where shot. The machine shop said they were in pretty good shape for 235k miles. I checked the cylinder bores the way you showed me with old piston rings . The cylinders are true and not warped. I haven't brought the block to the machine shop yet. I did clean pistons of carbon etc. Some of the old rings were frozen and didn't seem like they were functioning properly. I bought Hastings rings for my 86 mm bore . What's interesting is the old ring gap is . 028 . The new ring gap is . 017-.018. I didnt know the gap could wear that much. I almost bought the dinkleberry hone but after seeing your video Im glad I didn't . I'm gonna let the machine shop crosshatch the cylinders for me. Is it normal for the old rings to be thicker ? The old rings are . 010 thicker . Thanks again.
If you're still building this, forced induction ring should have more gap than naturally aspirated.
I was always taught and the only reason I placed the pistons Rings Apart is 180 out on oil rings it brings doesn't matter where they go Just not lined up always try to keep your gap 1st and 2nd ranger off the thrust side of the piston for initial startup excellent video glad you addressed it
"Work like a gentleman."
Words to live by
Tony I'm glad you cleared up that thing about where to set the ring gaps, because I suspected they would move whenever the engine was running. That was a big worry of mine before I rebuilt the 318, that's going in my '82 Mirada.
Another chapter in your engine book. well done.
I love the focus on the little things. I am not a rookie, but if I was ,you're explaining things very well.
Another Gem Uncle Tony thanks.
I gotta do ring and flat cam break in soon. Great video Tony.
This is so good. I sure wish I'd have watched your videos BEFORE I re-built my SBF. You're really good at teaching. Thanks.
Thanks! Found you page and it's been amazingly helpful as I embark on an engine swap project for my Miata.
that was a great explanation.....simple.......informative.....and slow so a person can understand it.....if they dont..???? thanks uncle tony
As you said in a previous video about where you prefer to be- the know-how-to-do-for-average-greasemonkeys-allovertheworld really IS your happy zone. I just love it!
We love you uncle Tony!!! Please keep these coming!
timing is PERFECT! got an old SBC on the stand about to do my first rebuild
Yeah baby! Hastings MI, my hometown. Many of my family members have worked there since I can remember and I'm in my sixties.
I'm actually building my first engine (buick gs400 68). Your videos help me a lot! thanks!!
I love the info you have for the at home engine builder thank you.
love you man. ive been an engine man for 55 years plus. want you on my team
I’m going to attempt to build my 1st engine for my daily. It’s going to be over bore pistons, all forged internals. I’m cramming all your content. Hoping to start the build this winter and complete it for spring.
had to watch this again Tony, |Gotta make sure I'mnot missing details,love your building and and carb stuff. Cheers!
Thanks Tony, best vid on ring install ever. I have to re-do an engine I built due to a carb screw-up and this helps.
Could also be a bad valve seat. Also as tony's pointed out quite a few times the quality of parts these last couple of years has been horrible. I had a bad oil pump, bad starter, 2 bad coils, along with several other things that aren't coming to mind right now on my last build.
Some people baby a new engine ,and the rings don't seat.
If rings don't seat in the first 5mins of operation,they won't.
Gotta give it some load and get em seated in the beginning,while it's idling high for cam break in give it wide open throttle blasts to like 3000-3500 to load em and get em seated.
Some of the old caterpillar cylinder kits used to come with a piece of paper that said do not idle engine more than 5 minutes or risk unseated rings.
Engines can handle a lot more than people usually think, that's very common to baby it at break in and have this happen.
Unless ya got an issue with valve guides or seals but I'm guessing it's all new and tight up there.
@@MrTheHillfolk The heads are all brand new high -end stuff. The engine is a little Fiat 1400cc in a 124 spider. What happened was after the first 50 mile drive, hard on the throttle to 4000 rpm and back down changing and varying my speed the whole time, the chinese knock-off weber (didn't know) decided to break on the next start and the engine went wide open to 8000 rpm. It hasn't run right since, like the timing is off but I can't pinpoint what is wrong so when I get some time I am going to tear it down and see if anything jumps out at me.
Sometime could you discuss chrome rings. Back in the late fifties when I started "overhauling" engines chrome rings were the thing. I used them on several engines. I had problems with them not seating properly and burning oil.
Chrome rings often never fully seat, surface finish is key. Chrome rings are mostly used in offroad equipment where dust and dirt are an issue, such as dumptrucks.
My understanding of chrome rings is that they were an oval dirt track only thing.
I think back in the day the big deal with chrome rings is that they had a very hard surface. That tends to make them not seat really well, but also means they usually last pretty well.
@@NBSV1 And it's not often mentioned rings have a tin coating to assist sealing. Iron rings I believe?
Waooo....that is the true teacher in regards to engineering motors, specifically on vehicles!!! 👍 timor 🇹🇱 leste
I always have the bad luck of one of the oil rings popping out of the compressor as it is sliding into the bore. I even bought a fancy one for the reason of thinking it was those cheap band ones, but nope it did the same thing. Break in drives, besides varying the load on acceleration I also like to go up and down hilly roads.
If you’re doing the same bore size regularly the one piece cone style compressors are awesome. That way you’re not fooling with a band and making sure everything stays compressed. They have a little lip that seats into the bore then you can push the piston in and the taper compresses the rings as it goes.
perfect timing, I just got my new rings in the mail today , gonna install them tomorrow thanks for the info
Exciting. What kind did you get, and where will they be used?
@@skylinefever d series honda with vitara pistons and 0.5mm oversized hastings rings, building for boost
@@backstab335 That is an interesting combo. I love when people mix bits and pieces from other cars and get good results. Ready to set gap for your boost pressure?
@@skylinefever yee, i have it all writen down, but basically i bought someone elses project and found out that one piston ring was gaped way too loose, about 3x the factory gap, so i had to buy full set and regap them myself, also i found out today that with this conecting rod and piston combo i would only have about 6.9:1 compression ratio and it really sucks.. and there is no good option of pistons for my block so my plan is to mill the block and the head atleast 2mm each, that should put me at around 8.6:1 comp, im just hoping it turns out well
@@backstab335 Get some clay to measure piston to valve clearance. Since you are removing a total of 4mm, that could be a disaster.
THIS IS THE BEST VIDEO TO BE HONEST, BIG THANK YOU SIR!!!
Is it normal to get smoke out the exhaust after a full engine rebuild? If so, how long would it normally take to get rid of the smoke? The cylinder walls I would say was honed to a fine finish. I can see the honing marks but is smooth and even to the touch.
I love your how to videos. Lots of great information.
love these solo videos!
Where was this video 49 years ago when I bought my first car, a '64 Nova with a flat 6? It burned oil and also leaked transmission fluid almost as quickly. Thanks for this great video!
Lmfbo! At no time in my life have i ever heard of rings being described as "adorable"!!!! Lol!
Unc,you're the fucking best!!!!!
Thanks Uncle Tony! What a great instruction!
Anothet great vid Uncle!!! Ive built many an engine but its always nice to hear...idk... Vindication(?) about some of our methods. One topic not touched on...oil choice for break in...
~10:00 so don't think of it as material shaping so much as the deburring step in knife sharpening, except we aim for a very dull edge.
work like a gentleman
Loved this quote too
CAR CULTURE LEADER UTG!!!
Great video, just be super careful not to gouge the piston grooves if you use a broken ring to clean them out. Those are precision cut surfaces that must seal against the ring. There are better tools for the job.
Thankyou,thankyou brother for this info. I am currently right in the middle of rebuilding my Ford Ranger motor. It had alot of miles on it,carried alot of weight,(tools), for alot of miles. Thankfully,my dear friend of many years who worked in an engine rebuilding shop is helping me,but he is 73 now and has gaps in his focus. I am a successful carpenter,and good at swapping parts in a car,but engine rebuilding is very demanding and precise,Ive learned after 2 attempts iny life of just winging it myself,both engines blew up.(please,keep the carpenter away from the motor),type of thing. Anyway,thankyou.
Thanks UT! It has been almost 40 years since I last assembled an engine (an FE Ford) and soon I'll be refreshing that same engine so these pointers are great. Do you have any experience with propane as an engine fuel? Any things to watch out when putting together and engine that will run on propane. Thanks again, I really like that range of videos you have on your channel (from carbs versus EFI to rip-off car flippers to the insanity of some aspects of modern automobiles, etc., etc.)
I made a ring filler with die grinder and an old piston just to get through a pinch. Good Content UT
You should contact Lake Speed Jr at total seal and you could do a segment on ported ring and maybe gapless rings?? You’d be really good at it like you were here.
Hey Tony I e heard of people using transmission fluid on the cylinder walls when assembling their engines what's your thoughts on that
Transmission fluid has more detergents than engine oil and it burns off almost instantly on startup. It also washes away any miniscule grit or dirt that could be left in the bores even after thorough cleaning. Been using it for years and no failures whatsoever
Super cool series you're doing here Tony. You're covering every question a guy might have. 👍
(Or gal)
Some guys don't know anything. A novice may think 100 grit is fine honing. For moly rings. Why not tell us what grit stones should be used?
One time I threw together a ford 460 and didn't notice the block was bored 30 over. It ran, didn't burn oil but had an awful noise above 2500rpm and a little extra blowby. Still can't believe it ran with that much clearance...
Haha I got an old beater 76 kd (or ke I forgot) 100 Kawasaki that was sitting 6-8yrs.
Little 2 stroke rotary valve deal.
Dude told me something was funny and he had the cylinder off but put it back together.
Even tho I was a young kid ,I opened it up to inspect.
He broke a ring.
So we put it together with one and sent it.
Oh that was it ,it was bored .010 over but had a std piston with a broken ring.
So yeah it ran ,started a little hard and was noisy till it warmed up some.
Had a nice slap at low revs high load too.
After a month of beating it ,I was flat out one night at a whole 50ish mph riding home and it locked up.
Damn circlip popped out and wasted the bore,she's done.
It was free and I learned alot and had fun while it lasted.
When I was a kid I had a customer insist on using parts she provided from JC Whitney 😂 they shipped pistons with rings that was ten under what was sposed to be😁 Honda Civic was a smoker, to say the least.. she became a better listener 💨💨💨
@@MrTheHillfolk We used to run just the top ring on our 2-stroke dirt bikes, thinking they'd accelerate quicker. Don't think we actually proved anything.
Have you heard of gapless rings? A company called Total seal makes them.
You would be amazed how much "not perfect" an engine with proper oil changes and timing can handle, especially a low compression street motor.
The second ring is not a compression ring, it's an oil scraper. The third or oil control ring distributes oil upward on the cylinder wall. The second ring clears the wall of excess oil on intake and power strokes.
The second ring should be gapped by 1.5 to 2 times the top ring factor to avoid unseating top ring due to overpressure between the top 2 rings.
One of the first things I do when assembly is install the cam first..
Thanks uncle Tony im fixing my uncle's can you helped me out alot brother your the best
The best UTG . Thanks again..your knowledge is killer! I've been watching a long time now. Tons of good video. Best on the tube
Anything regarding the benefits and drawbacks of building engines (not motors 😝) to tight and loose tolerances for moderate to heavy street use?
I thought chromed rings became the norm by the early 1960s. It did a lot to help engines last longer. Moly rings arrived later on some engines, but plain iron was definitely not the norm back then.
Allpar's youtube channel often had videos of new engines being introduced. They'd announce when a new engine would get chromed rings.
3:52 The Nissan 300ZX had nitrided steel piston rings from the factory. It might be one reason people could turn the boost up and get away with it.
19:30 Yes, and don't always expect a dot to tell you which side faces up. Sometimes the manufacturer will print on the rings.
20:17 I thought that was to make the ring more durable. Maybe it does both?
23:39 Myvintageiron promotes using WD40. He lives in Arizona, and has been to the Total Seal factory. Even they said WD40 was good. It seems kind of hard to reject advice from someone that auto racing leagues trust. He uses it everywhere, and I have seen him get rings from Hastings and Mahle/Clevite. He may have used other companies, too.
23:44 Machine shops benefit from buying tapered cone ring compressors, if they do enough engines with the same bore.
28:39 That would explain why in some new car manuals, you are discouraged from pushing it hard if you have under 500 miles.
Their are also the elliptical Dykes type ring and the Napier type with the hooked bottom outer edge for certain applications where you might need optimum oil removal .. I have had good luck with Total Seal's Quick Seat powder for breaking in rings and bores. You clean the bore spotlessly (piston too) with ac.etone till a white rag picks up no black marks, then mist the bores with WD40 and wipe it away. Now when you go to apply the powder, if all is done right - the powder will turn green, if the bore is still too dirty or contaminated - it will turn a blackish color.
love yr vids , wish i watched them before my porsche build .
dan from england
23:50 the reason you don’t pub-dunk your whole piston in engine oil, is because all of that is just going to turn into carbon deposits as soon as you fire it up. Completely negating the work you did cleaning the ring lands lol.
+1 on WD-40
WD FTW
As usual, content and explanation very good. Visual- not so much. Consult uncle Cathy on lighting and close ups please, if I'm not being presumptuous- like you say, devil is in the details (you don't see). Thanks for your knowledge and experience.
Sir, I just want to say, I APPRECIATE you ‼️❤
I went with moly rings on my 355 build on my Chevy. I went with different pistons as well
When I was going to paint my block you upload a video about it, I went to check piston ring gap and just so happen to upload a video on it 🤯
Top shelf lesson Uncle Tony.
Cheers & stay safe😊
Thanks for all your effort you're very informative and your thought processes you call ocd... that's just great work from a great mind ty again sir keep up the good work!! From sw ks caio for now now
Thanks! First time engine rebuild, you answered all of my "nagging" questions!