Before shot, description of problems, after shot, explanation of what you did and why. That's the best home porting video I've seen. Thanks again Uncle Tony
This is not so much a port, but prep and quality control for a casting that received minimal basic machining, then kicked out the door by the car company that made it. Call this a good cleanup that anyone can do, and if you want to hand it over to a porter, he can concentrate on what moves flowbench numbers. The large wall of casting flash in that bowl is beyond sad: they really didn't give a rip. If that broke loose, it's enough to destroy an otherwise good engine. It makes me think if I went back to the 60s/70s in a time machine [to place a few key rides in the family to enjoy later], the first thing I would do on every car is yank the heads off, and fix the sloppy work just like this vid shows. Could be fun, watching the dealer go slack jawed as I demand heads pulled on a brand new car before it leaves the lot...and I would not budge: no sale without my inspection/cleanup.
*>>>* One other tip I'd give - especially for beginners - is to start with the port areas first to get a feel for how much material the carbide bit removes with every pass you make, and how it "feels" as the bit cuts away material. You really want to get a feel for it before doing the more intricate areas of the bowls. You're learning, so if you make any minor mistakes, the ports are a good place to learn because they are more forgiving of any minor mistakes you may make. Get a feel for how your bit cuts and feels with the ports first before doing the bowls. 👍 That, and wear safety goggles to keep metal debris out of your eyes!
Yes!!! Safety glasses *and* face shield. Those chips fly everywhere. The stronger the motor in your die grinder the more they fly. I had a painful trip to the ER to remove a chip from my cornea. T tried to flush it, brush it, and flick it away by myself, but just made it worse. Even tried a magnet. I had some pretty good wrap around safety glasses, but apparently not good enough in that perfect storm of chips. Next time I'll add goggles or face shield to my list of required PPE.
I'm impressed Tony..Uncle Kathy and you absolutely killed yourselves Sunday with that marathon build and you're back at it the next day or so? Awesome!
I’m not the machine I was 20 years ago in any way, but I know for 100% certain that stuff had to get done. Two tapered bores, a couple of sticky lifter notes, and sand clogged head bolt threads are all killers.
Man,..Tony you hit the head on the head.. got blowed gasket on a440,67 Belvedere, 452 heads, taking them off this weekend to do what you are doing.l was a little scared. Ain't no more. 64 yrs.old Rebel having fun with it...thank you very much for your help, l try to see all of your videos, you have helped me with several things, thanks again...good day to ya.
I have a million things to do and almost lost the tip of my other thumb. God damnit. But tony still makes me want to go out and rebuild my top end for a porting job. I’m on borrowed time my engine had 299k miles when I rebuilt it with new valves and lifters, but camshaft is worn and shows copper. Can’t afford a bigger cam, so might as well increase my duration by cleaning up the meat around the seats. Thanks tony. I was having a bad day
That is not going to help duration 1 bit. Get a good valve job that will help more than anything done here. WIth 300k its probably beat to hell anyways
I want to see that project spin Nick's dyno, this one too! this piston flipped 360 stroke 318 head thing is going to be a little torque beast when its finished. its not going to need much of a cam in there for what he's showing us all in this video.
I do believe this is the BEST of Uncle T's videos - he addresses clearly how anyone with hand, eye, and brain skills can improve the very heart of an engine's power production. Fascinating, and it shows that Uncle Kathy's lesser half REALLY knows his stuff! Of course, I concur with many comments about eye protection, and I would also suggest hearing protection (piano tuner here). Gloves? Nah... not with this; I'd rather feel the tool here. And we need not worry about Uncle Tony's eye protection - when he sneezes, he probably just holds his nose and blasts metal shavings all over the room.
Tip, if you are grinding aluminum use wax on the burr to keep it from clogging. Old candles work well. Cuts better too. Go for a multi angle valve job, as Smokey Yunick said "the valve is the obstruction in the intake path."
Something else to try as Wax just flings... For aluminum what's even better is a mixture of wd-40/ marvel tool oil and a touch of dawn to make it cling. We use that combo no matter the carbide type when working aluminum.
im in the same boat 40 years as a specialty machinist head porter hes literally telling them how not to port a head ! i could take a duplicate set of heads and not do like 4 big no nos i saw him do and outflow those all day long ! smooth out the throat he thinks the fuels gonna slide in but its not by doing what he did he slowed velocity down it needs to be hourglass shape with teardrop guides if you dont remove them he didnt even smooth the throat
Learn something from UT every time. I always looked at porting like getting max flow at max lift. Never thought of flow just off of the seat. It totally is like more duration. Cool.
The way tony explains things is really good , straight to the point and no bullshit , I have learned a lot from watching his videos , he's a hands on guy who's been there and done that and not a text book expert who has never played with a street car .
I'm glad that there's someone down to earth and easy to understand passing down this kind of knowledge. Most people getting into cars now think an exhaust system and a cold air intake make 100 extra hp. I was talking to a guy 10 years older than me at least about my LS Project and told him I was using stock manifolds (5.3/LM7) and he said, and I quote "You've got to use headers, the 5.3 just like the one in my truck, with headers and a tune... will make 600hp!" I'd like to have that tune.
thanks for all your technical expertise! you love giving away tech secrets for everyone to benefit! thanks Tony. you're knowledge is priceless! PS. you know your trade. thank you.
Great video; direct and simple to follow instructions. I used the same Harbor Freight Die grinder and have one suggestion: use a speed control. I bought designed for a router (universal motor) for around $20. This allowed me to slow the die grinder and the difference in controllability and smoothness of cut with the carbide burr was amazing. I made it most of the way through one head before I tried it and as a result the second head went much faster and I had better control. An added bonus was that my hands didn't feel like they were buzzing after doing the second head.
I can sit and do port work all day long, my old man learnt me young at 12 on small stationary motors then 2st bikes then the good stuff. 30 years later I still enjoy it.
Great stuff Tony, finally been simplified. Surprised to see you so eager to grab that grinder again tho after the worlds quickest port job on the marathon build. Thanks for the videos and passing on your knowledge to others.
THousand dollar port job? Back then probably done by a pro that wont show anyone what they do. Those results will not come with watching anyone on yt unfortunately
This kind of information is like gold. Some people would charge money for this kind of advanced knowledge. Thank you for your journeyman kind of instruction.
When you're going for economy, it's not about maximum flow, it's more about EVEN flow. The more even the cylinders fire the smoother the engine runs and the more economical it will be. The best way to ensure even firing and even cylinder contribution is exactly what Tony showed here, just form the ports to the shape the casting was intended to be so they are all the same size and shape for smooth, even flow.
@@fastinradfordable I never used the term "blueprinted", which refers to machining the block to exact blueprinted specs... but yeah, it essentially IS "blueprinting" the heads. Professional engine builders might have fancier tools to do it with, but they're all essentially just a die grinder, and they also do it by hand. Mass manufacturing practices cause the castings to rarely come out anywhere close to the exact measurements, shapes, and designs that the engineers intended when they were drafting the actual blueprints. The only way to make the castings match the original design is to reshape them... with a die grinder... by hand.
@@livewire2759 "I never used the term "blueprinted", which refers to machining the block to exact blueprinted specs" LOL - It doesn't mean that at all!! You guys should really read some books FFS!!
Men from the boys indeed Sir! Most people probably don't understand how far advanced your "golf ball" reference (in the porting world) was. I always enjoy your videos, Thank You!
Thanks UT, lots of us have been afraid to try this in the past, you pulled the curtain back to reveal the simplicity. Wish I had know this 35 years ago!
Guys please wear eye and face protection anytime you mess with anything to do with cutting or grinding. 26 years in fab and machine shops, and I have seen some ugly mishaps. Including a 24 year old who lost his right eye.
I was once prying with a screwdriver when it slipped off the part and went between my left eyeball and eyelid. I wore an eyepatch for three weeks while it healed.
@@johnwilburn Ouch! Eye injuries are painful. Have had more than enough metal chips in my eyes myself. I posted this comment mainly for the young viewers who may not realize the dangers with cutting and grinding. Chisels and prybars have the potential to be deadly. I've seen a few RUclips videos of guys not wearing PPE. Even saw one the other day of a guy welding in shorts and flip flops.
Good advice - ! He does put on spectacles each time which would afford some protection and probably ok with the tiny bits flying off, but not as good as complete protection from wrap-around safety glasses. Should also be wearing gloves and hearing protection.
I’ve been doin that since I was 16. It’s nice to see someone explaining how it helps flow. I’ve always ported my heads. It does make more power! I’ve finally bought a set of high dollar aluminum cylinder heads, and they still needed to be “touched up “ . Good stuff Uncle Tony!
Hey Tony, Tim here, i know this is an older vid, but i just wanted to say, BE CAREFUL on doin much on the exhaust side, YES i wuda removed that huge intrusion also.....but i dont make it like an intake bowl/port......WE DONT WANT REVERSION!!.....if you leave a little behind, so the port is just a bit smaller than the header/manifold, that little step left behind, helps reduce reversion.......and YES the walls and the roof are EXTREMLY important....but i learned to NOT port match the exhaust, to reduce reversion......who wants a diluted air/fuel charge for the next firing.......GREAT STUFF yet again!!.....i dig lookin back b4 i had subscribed....LOTS of gem vids you did.....like this one...PEACE my brother!!
See, this right here is what I was trying to explain to a friend!!! That as long as you clean up the ports, remove casting flaws and make sure the area behind the valve has good flow potential, it would open up some extra power. It isn't just about opening the ports as big as they can go, but just cleaning up the path already provided. And I had experience with that with a high compression Honda B18A1 that started out with just a basic clean up of the intake and exhaust ports, what little work was needed. This said, when the head was fully ported to match the new performance intake manifold... there was an even bigger gain. This said, nothing compares to the now VTEC head on the same high compression B18A1, with its port work done and its performance intake manifold.
THANK YOU!!! For explaining what to chop on and more importantly WHY to chop it! First video connecting the dots and why porting makes sense! Thank you
I just learned more about basic porting than I thought existed. I'm sure Uncle Tony made it look easier than it is but I'm now happy to try it myself. Thanks.
Another great video Tony. One of my friends fathers helped me replace a head gasket years ago. While we had the head off, he did the same thing you just did. He said "we are just cleaning it up". I'm not sure of the horsepower it added but on a four cylinder car there was a big notice in gain when you floored it. I was surprised at the little bit of work that went into it and the big return. Thanks again for a great upload.
I always thought porting and polishing a head would be difficult.... it’s one thing I never bothered looking up. It’s one thing I’ve never even been okay trying... But, now I shall practice on some junk gt40 heads I have... get it right so I can put new heads on the foxbody. Thanks tony!
Its super difficult to truly learn, takes many yrs and trips to the flow bench. Smoothing things most times may not hurt anything but dont expect to feel any gain from this.
Fabulous tutorial. I've never seen such a straight forward example of how to do a basic port cleanup and what that might produce. I feel confident to try my own now. Message? "Stick to the basic cleanup and don't go crazy. You can't miss. Got it!"
Thanks for making it so easy to understand and not to panic out on details. Follow the Golden rules of keep it simple, upgrading the blueprints a little.
Very informative. I have some years of tool and die training and I feel that will be some help along with being a lifetime mechanic in my next project. I got a 97 Nissan pickup I’m doing a 302 bored to 306 with GT40P heads. My goal is to do exactly what you demonstrated in this video. Thank you for the information! It truly was exactly the information I needed from an experienced person that does hand porting.
@@doomman700 lol. I actually found David Vizard through another RUclipsr and that man is on another planet when it comes to making power. His knowledge is astounding.
The BEST advice on porting I ever heard was, "...be the exhaust". It completely changed my thought process on porting. Can't remember where I heard it...................................................
this is the first practical porting advice i have seen. most always ruin heads i knew a man Tim Conolly worked at dyno center at dodge years ago where i learned what little i know about porting. he said its like a highway you want a smooth ride fuel and air want the same. he never gasket matched either he always made a gasket for the intake and gasket for head as they set on engine and port matched the ports. gasket matching always leaves a bump or as he said a ditch in the road because gaskets are always larger than the port.
All this time I’ve heard the term “port and polished” and I finally understand what it’s trying to describe and you said the polish isn’t necessary. I thought it was about making ports bigger but you explain it’s about uniformity to flow more gases through.
Thank you for your efforts and time spent in making this video. Very generous and- very helpful. The detail is much appreciated explaining not only the how but the why. Bonus - explaining the tooling and some methods and techniques along with it.
Man I really want to thank you for your time in making these videos. Im always doing things on a budget and can't wait to build a street rod. But first I need to get my f350 finished. It has a 460 I tore down. The bearing were wiped with a lot of dirt so I'm see sanding the crank and I found the weak spot is the heads. And if I put a nice RV cam in it the heads will fight me. So I'm keeping the pistons and rings and rehoning the cylinders. Then cleaning the oil galleys and block. Then sanding the crank and plastic gauge. Then grinding the heads and lapping the valves. Anyways thanks again
If you're really interested in engine tuning and building, there's a couple books out there that are very interesting. One is "Tuning for speed" by Phil irving, he was a british engine designer responsible for Triumph's 500 and 650 twins as well as a number of other designs. The other is "Tuning secrets from Smokey Yunic" Both are pretty extensive, Irving's being more engineering, Smokey's being more hands on and a lot of great information on making an engine that will perform and last.
Phil Irving was an Australian, he worked for a while in Britain and when he returned to Australia started Perfectune engineering and Yella Terra heads.
Back in the day as a kid , I'd have pops port my heads. Keep it mild , just like this vid here and you'll be golden. And my butt dyno never lied I could always feel an increase.
@@robertclymer6948 Haha mines pretty old , but I see they have new ones 🤣 I heard that one from my old hs shop teacher almost 30 some odd years ago www.onehotlap.com/2014/05/a-real-butt-dyno-anyone.html?m=1
This video reminded me of the high performance engines class I had at UNOH years ago. Same lessons I was taught by the instructor and still hold true. Continue to share your knowledge and experience Uncle Tony.
Thanks for that live feed UT! I was really enjoying the head porting footage. This video reminds me of old headbyts YT channel and his in depth explanation and guidance of the why's and how less is more until it's a race motor. Really explaining the importance of low lift flow and the low hanging fruit providing the butt Dyno gains for a street build. I am super excited to see the results. I am sure that the area under the curve below 4000 will be impressive and rewarding. Keep it up.
Thank you uncle tony, its been so long since ive done something like this i needed a reminder because im thinking about rebuilding the 318 in my ramcharger soon.
a good tip especially for people who may not to confident with a die grinder and/or uncomfortable working around the seats, look into getting some guards 3d printed to protect them. the ones I made for my engine were just 1.5mm thick and cover the contact area of the seat and 2mm below it. if the cutting head of the burr hits them it will grind through in about 2 seconds, but that's 2 extra seconds to get the cutter away from the seat when it would have instantly damaged them without the guard.
Good stuff! I build/port and polish roughly 6 sets of heads per week(well, this year is slow as I have very few either strip or track cars as the season is postponed)...and often I'll compare the before and after on our flow bench. UT is absolutely correct when he says that you really don't need to go crazy and make it look like a museum piece. Simple contouring, blending and dulling edges will go a long way. Also, on some heads, the valve(s) may be "shrouded" by the chamber. Unshrouding is also very beneficial...albeit a little more tricky for the home mechanic. However, IF you do take your head to a shop like ours and you're getting a basic valve job...it literally takes no more work to take that shroud off with the Serdi while cutting for new hard seats or re-cutting the old. Also, it take's no more expense for the shop to really do any amount of angle work. It's simply a cutting head on the machine which will leave either 3, 5, 7 or a radius. For street cars, I usually cut 5 angles on the intake and radius the exhaust. Seems that combo works really well...along with re facing the back cutting the valves themselves.
That was a very helpful video. Takes all the voodoo magic out of porting and polishing and gives you confidence to get after it yourself. Thanks uncle Tony!
Thank you Uncle Tony. I didn't realize this would be that easy.. I just started on my 69 273 Dart and even I can handle this. It always scared me but after watching your video it's a piece of cake. 👍
awesome video, i always hear people talking about how porting doesn't yield much in the way of results but they are testing modern engines that don't quite benefit as much as these older castings with non canted valves and fairly primitive designs that don't necessarily lend themselves to laminar flow from the factory
I did this on some cast iron sm blk Ford heads with 1.90/1.60 valves that I bought from Indy cylinder head years ago.....the engine is still running w/low miles in a 1983 Mustang GT that I never finished painting. I'm about to work on a 318 in a Ramcharger....this is good info! 👍
you are very lucky. when i was in your age bracket, i had to have at least 3 - 100 watt light sources (or work in direct sunlight) in order to see well enough to port heads. and yeah, i learned the hard way about brazed carbide cutters. only back then, the solid cutters were in the $10.00 - 25.00 each range. i miss working on engines so much. it was the most satisfying thing (except for the kids) i ever did.
Following this build closely getting ready to do a build almost identical to this one. Starting with a 360 from a 1974 motor home that I picked up super cheap. Runs great now but needs all new gaskets and freeze plugs from sitting most of it's life. Motor and trannsmission have 74,000 original miles. Want the same type of build you are doing for a fun little daily driver. Drive train will be going into a 1980 D100 short bed 2 wheel drive. Thank you for sharing your knowledge freely so others can learn.
Cool video on basic porting.65 to 70 percent off performance is found in bowl/throat area 25 percent in the short turn and 15 percent or there about is found in port runner roof like ut says not the floor. vavle percentage when it comes to bowl and throat big is never better it all about mean port velocity. One thing to remember is on intake side the port runner starts a inch or 2 into they intake manifold.happy porting
Tony thank you very much for that incredible live engine rebuild.i can’t tell you how much i enjoyed it and I’m sorry I couldn’t watch the whole thing there was a duck dynasty marathon on and it was difficult for me to choose but thank you for all that I saw please do another one soon
Thanks Tony your Gods Gift to building a great engine.Being a backyard mechanic all my life at age 67 this will help my build on my 340 heads when I do my tare down.I have no Idea about this motor so it may have already been done.As radical as the cam sounds with a stall converter will see.One thing I did notice is the Quick response of acceleration and it has with an 850 double pumper.After putting summit roller rockers good change of royal purple racing oil the RPMs are even quicker.I went with Straight 40 synthetic. Thank you much for your video it is truly very helpful.Hope to get my T-shirt soon
One of the common tems we all know is the "bowl". But I like to think of it as the "bell": done right, that is the basic profile you get on an intake port if you sawed the head in half - rounded on top, a slight taper to the walls, and a roundish flare at the opening where the valve seat is. Thanks for keeping it simple - improvements don't have to be race winning to boost the fun factor of a daily driver.
“Let your vision be like water making its way through the ports. Grind off anything that is assertive to your flow, but adjust the object impeding your flow, and you shall find a way around or through it. If nothing within you stays rigid, outward things will disclose themselves into atomized flow of gasses into and out of the cylinder. Empty your obstructions to flow, be formless. Shapeless, like water. If you put water into a port, it becomes the port. You put water into a cylinder and it becomes the cylinder. You compress it by a piston, it becomes highly explosive. Now, air fuel mixture can flow or it can crash. Be water flowing, my friend.” : Uncle Tony or Bruce or someone I forget
the basic simple porting job, BRAVO! each flaw can knock a percentage of power away. investment plaster castings (jewelry) are smaller but get flaws just like sand cast will. putting all the lines straight+smoother is going to open it up 4-5% at the least, that nugget in the header side was at least that much all by itself! what you just showed combined with back facing the valves will do a LOT for making torque power out of this DD project... piston flipped 360 stroke with the "doctored" 318 heads, really nice oddball combo to start with. it'll likely out-do bottle rocket (unsprayed) when done.
Uncle Tony,thank you for showing me this.well now i was only going to do valve lash adjustment.Down the road i might take the motor apart just to do this.
Nice to see a real "Car Guy, Expert Mechanic-Engine Builder" , not a show-boy actor, pushing high dollar parts, for Aftermarket suppliers! Like MOST car TV and RUclips shows. Especially the ones who don black Nitrile gloves, to replace a wiper blade or radio!
Loving it! Great car. Add to the bottom of your list, "work on your speedo when your bored!" (nice when they work especially when cops around). Stay safe everyone!
Thanks the price of the die grinder bit is a good reason I like the show, everything I own is a daily driver I watch$$. That said I have a 1997 truck with 340,000 miles with lots of tweeks and original engine no tear down owned since new. The tweeks your talking about can also extend longevity if you keep your foot out of it. Lol thank you
Fantastic video unc! I’ve watched a few videos on porting and either ended with less of a understanding or couldn’t follow because of the technical lingo. You explain it very well and show your work, I can actually say I learned a good bit from this one.
Good to see you're up and moving brother man, dammit Tony you know you're getting too old for that shit. Good to see you made it without totally blowing up on anybody. The caliper thing was close. And a tip of the hat to Uncle Kathy. For putting up with your old ass. You got my old ass inspired to do something with this 72 360 in the motorhome with 3700 miles on it. 360, 727..just need something to put it in. The only thing that disappointed me was Lamie didn't bring his twang box and sing.
Before shot, description of problems, after shot, explanation of what you did and why. That's the best home porting video I've seen. Thanks again Uncle Tony
This is not so much a port, but prep and quality control for a casting that received minimal basic machining, then kicked out the door by the car company that made it. Call this a good cleanup that anyone can do, and if you want to hand it over to a porter, he can concentrate on what moves flowbench numbers. The large wall of casting flash in that bowl is beyond sad: they really didn't give a rip. If that broke loose, it's enough to destroy an otherwise good engine.
It makes me think if I went back to the 60s/70s in a time machine [to place a few key rides in the family to enjoy later], the first thing I would do on every car is yank the heads off, and fix the sloppy work just like this vid shows. Could be fun, watching the dealer go slack jawed as I demand heads pulled on a brand new car before it leaves the lot...and I would not budge: no sale without my inspection/cleanup.
It's 2 am n I felt like I can go out their n do it my self rn
@@flinch622 I dont see a car dealer going for that or warranting it..but see the point.
Dont see anything done here that will help w/power
*>>>* One other tip I'd give - especially for beginners - is to start with the port areas first to get a feel for how much material the carbide bit removes with every pass you make, and how it "feels" as the bit cuts away material. You really want to get a feel for it before doing the more intricate areas of the bowls. You're learning, so if you make any minor mistakes, the ports are a good place to learn because they are more forgiving of any minor mistakes you may make. Get a feel for how your bit cuts and feels with the ports first before doing the bowls. 👍 That, and wear safety goggles to keep metal debris out of your eyes!
and don't fall into the trap of bigger must be better....Many times air acts differently than the port layout may suggest.
Yes!!! Safety glasses *and* face shield. Those chips fly everywhere. The stronger the motor in your die grinder the more they fly. I had a painful trip to the ER to remove a chip from my cornea. T tried to flush it, brush it, and flick it away by myself, but just made it worse. Even tried a magnet. I had some pretty good wrap around safety glasses, but apparently not good enough in that perfect storm of chips. Next time I'll add goggles or face shield to my list of required PPE.
Also don't forget to put a rubber on it....
Bill Cat we
Good advice thanks.
As a machinist and someone whos been hogging thier own heads for 20+ years,
Nice 👍
I'm impressed Tony..Uncle Kathy and you absolutely killed yourselves Sunday with that marathon build and you're back at it the next day or so? Awesome!
Right! I was thinking the same thing. I wasn’t expecting a new vid for a few more days. They are troopers 👍
After the build, Lunar, Tony, Kathy, and I were talking and he’s already telling Kathy “we have videos to make tomorrow.” He’s a machine.
@@johnwilburn You were a machine too John...enjoyed watching you get that block ready!
I’m not the machine I was 20 years ago in any way, but I know for 100% certain that stuff had to get done. Two tapered bores, a couple of sticky lifter notes, and sand clogged head bolt threads are all killers.
I was tired and i did jack sh!+.
Man,..Tony you hit the head on the head.. got blowed gasket on a440,67 Belvedere, 452 heads, taking them off this weekend to do what you are doing.l was a little scared. Ain't no more. 64 yrs.old Rebel having fun with it...thank you very much for your help, l try to see all of your videos, you have helped me with several things, thanks again...good day to ya.
I appreciate a craftsmen who knows what to do as opposed to throwing a lot of money at the project. This is interesting.
I have a million things to do and almost lost the tip of my other thumb.
God damnit.
But tony still makes me want to go out and rebuild my top end for a porting job.
I’m on borrowed time my engine had 299k miles when I rebuilt it with new valves and lifters, but camshaft is worn and shows copper.
Can’t afford a bigger cam, so might as well increase my duration by cleaning up the meat around the seats.
Thanks tony. I was having a bad day
You still are having a bad day with your foul mouth!!
That is not going to help duration 1 bit. Get a good valve job that will help more than anything done here.
WIth 300k its probably beat to hell anyways
I was really impressed with the job you did int the 318 heads this past Sunday.
Me too! That’s where the hater scaring dyno number is going to come from.
LunarOutlaw’s Garage great job fellows
John Wilburn check out my her porting video! ruclips.net/video/Xy0FpPcygWo/видео.html
Good stuff. I subscribed!
I want to see that project spin Nick's dyno, this one too!
this piston flipped 360 stroke 318 head thing is going to be a little torque beast when its finished. its not going to need much of a cam in there for what he's showing us all in this video.
I do believe this is the BEST of Uncle T's videos - he addresses clearly how anyone with hand, eye, and brain skills can improve the very heart of an engine's power production. Fascinating, and it shows that Uncle Kathy's lesser half REALLY knows his stuff!
Of course, I concur with many comments about eye protection, and I would also suggest hearing protection (piano tuner here). Gloves? Nah... not with this; I'd rather feel the tool here. And we need not worry about Uncle Tony's eye protection - when he sneezes, he probably just holds his nose and blasts metal shavings all over the room.
Tip, if you are grinding aluminum use wax on the burr to keep it from clogging. Old candles work well. Cuts better too. Go for a multi angle valve job, as Smokey Yunick said "the valve is the obstruction in the intake path."
Something else to try as Wax just flings... For aluminum what's even better is a mixture of wd-40/ marvel tool oil and a touch of dawn to make it cling. We use that combo no matter the carbide type when working aluminum.
why i use stone on cast and burrs on aluminum
@@460efiguys3 Tap magic is ideal...helps cut the metal and shavings will not stick
(cutting oil)
Bar of Soap or a hard buffing compound helps also .
I've been porting heads for 40 years, it just blows me away, that ANYBODY takes this guy seriously...
im in the same boat 40 years as a specialty machinist head porter hes literally telling them how not to port a head ! i could take a duplicate set of heads and not do like 4 big no nos i saw him do and outflow those all day long ! smooth out the throat he thinks the fuels gonna slide in but its not by doing what he did he slowed velocity down it needs to be hourglass shape with teardrop guides if you dont remove them he didnt even smooth the throat
Hate to be that guy but most vids on YT re this are pure hackery...the drill/lapping bit too.
Wth!
@@stevenbean9706 Not much to be had with guides sure you know
A good valve job woulda trumped all done here.
Greg, where can I see your video on the same subject?
Learn something from UT every time. I always looked at porting like getting max flow at max lift. Never thought of flow just off of the seat. It totally is like more duration. Cool.
Not really. Valve jobs do the big stuff.
UT is the porting machine! spend half the day sunday on Lunar's heads and now doing it again on his own the guy never stops he is the port master:)
The way tony explains things is really good , straight to the point and no bullshit , I have learned a lot from watching his videos , he's a hands on guy who's been there and done that and not a text book expert who has never played with a street car .
I'm glad that there's someone down to earth and easy to understand passing down this kind of knowledge. Most people getting into cars now think an exhaust system and a cold air intake make 100 extra hp. I was talking to a guy 10 years older than me at least about my LS Project and told him I was using stock manifolds (5.3/LM7) and he said, and I quote "You've got to use headers, the 5.3 just like the one in my truck, with headers and a tune... will make 600hp!" I'd like to have that tune.
Damn dude...you're like an artist with that grinder.
I'd butcher that for sure LOL!
I would plan and worry all day.
And the first one the bit would kick and nick the seat....
Best introduction to the theory and execution of head work I have seen. Thanks Tony!
thanks for all your technical expertise! you love giving away tech secrets for everyone to benefit! thanks Tony. you're knowledge is priceless! PS. you know your trade. thank you.
Great video; direct and simple to follow instructions. I used the same Harbor Freight Die grinder and have one suggestion: use a speed control. I bought designed for a router (universal motor) for around $20. This allowed me to slow the die grinder and the difference in controllability and smoothness of cut with the carbide burr was amazing. I made it most of the way through one head before I tried it and as a result the second head went much faster and I had better control. An added bonus was that my hands didn't feel like they were buzzing after doing the second head.
I can sit and do port work all day long, my old man learnt me young at 12 on small stationary motors then 2st bikes then the good stuff. 30 years later I still enjoy it.
I like how you show the work being done.. Most channels pop back with work completed and no one sees the technique
Great stuff Tony, finally been simplified. Surprised to see you so eager to grab that grinder again tho after the worlds quickest port job on the marathon build. Thanks for the videos and passing on your knowledge to others.
I think that grinder was still cooling off from Sunday
I have the same HF grinder.
It’s a trooper.
Hi
CT
CT
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I wish I knew you back in the 80's when I spent a thousand bucks on port and polish and port match the Weiand intake on a 354 Hemi.
Thanks Tony
You could have bought some nice cars back then for that money
THousand dollar port job? Back then probably done by a pro that wont show anyone what they do.
Those results will not come with watching anyone on yt unfortunately
This kind of information is like gold. Some people would charge money for this kind of advanced knowledge. Thank you for your journeyman kind of instruction.
Go with the flow. Big bowls.
Smooth is the rule. Any port in a storm. Remove irregularities. Line of sight porting. UTG buzzwords.
Everybody already said what I was going to say, so I’ll just say thanks for another great video, I haven’t seen a bad one yet. Thank you both, Dave
When you're going for economy, it's not about maximum flow, it's more about EVEN flow. The more even the cylinders fire the smoother the engine runs and the more economical it will be. The best way to ensure even firing and even cylinder contribution is exactly what Tony showed here, just form the ports to the shape the casting was intended to be so they are all the same size and shape for smooth, even flow.
This is also known as blueprinting in old school tech.
I agree.
I don’t think die grinding ports = blueprinted engine
@@fastinradfordable I never used the term "blueprinted", which refers to machining the block to exact blueprinted specs... but yeah, it essentially IS "blueprinting" the heads. Professional engine builders might have fancier tools to do it with, but they're all essentially just a die grinder, and they also do it by hand. Mass manufacturing practices cause the castings to rarely come out anywhere close to the exact measurements, shapes, and designs that the engineers intended when they were drafting the actual blueprints. The only way to make the castings match the original design is to reshape them... with a die grinder... by hand.
@@livewire2759 "I never used the term "blueprinted", which refers to machining the block to exact blueprinted specs"
LOL - It doesn't mean that at all!! You guys should really read some books FFS!!
Awesome work mate. I'm going to port my straight six GM Holden Grey motor heads, will be doing what you have shown. 👍
Men from the boys indeed Sir! Most people probably don't understand how far advanced your "golf ball" reference (in the porting world) was. I always enjoy your videos, Thank You!
Thanks UT, lots of us have been afraid to try this in the past, you pulled the curtain back to reveal the simplicity. Wish I had know this 35 years ago!
Guys please wear eye and face protection anytime you mess with anything to do with cutting or grinding. 26 years in fab and machine shops, and I have seen some ugly mishaps. Including a 24 year old who lost his right eye.
I was once prying with a screwdriver when it slipped off the part and went between my left eyeball and eyelid. I wore an eyepatch for three weeks while it healed.
@@johnwilburn Ouch! Eye injuries are painful. Have had more than enough metal chips in my eyes myself. I posted this comment mainly for the young viewers who may not realize the dangers with cutting and grinding. Chisels and prybars have the potential to be deadly. I've seen a few RUclips videos of guys not wearing PPE. Even saw one the other day of a guy welding in shorts and flip flops.
@@PJ-yx8ug a real man can cut overhead with a torch or weld in sandals and shorts
@@cruzinezy1968 real men aren't obsessed with "manliness"
Good advice - ! He does put on spectacles each time which would afford some protection and probably ok with the tiny bits flying off, but not as good as complete protection from wrap-around safety glasses. Should also be wearing gloves and hearing protection.
I’ve been doin that since I was 16. It’s nice to see someone explaining how it helps flow. I’ve always ported my heads. It does make more power! I’ve finally bought a set of high dollar aluminum cylinder heads, and they still needed to be “touched up “ . Good stuff Uncle Tony!
Hey Tony,
Tim here, i know this is an older vid, but i just wanted to say, BE CAREFUL on doin much on the exhaust side, YES i wuda removed that huge intrusion also.....but i dont make it like an intake bowl/port......WE DONT WANT REVERSION!!.....if you leave a little behind, so the port is just a bit smaller than the header/manifold, that little step left behind, helps reduce reversion.......and YES the walls and the roof are EXTREMLY important....but i learned to NOT port match the exhaust, to reduce reversion......who wants a diluted air/fuel charge for the next firing.......GREAT STUFF yet again!!.....i dig lookin back b4 i had subscribed....LOTS of gem vids you did.....like this one...PEACE my brother!!
See, this right here is what I was trying to explain to a friend!!! That as long as you clean up the ports, remove casting flaws and make sure the area behind the valve has good flow potential, it would open up some extra power. It isn't just about opening the ports as big as they can go, but just cleaning up the path already provided. And I had experience with that with a high compression Honda B18A1 that started out with just a basic clean up of the intake and exhaust ports, what little work was needed. This said, when the head was fully ported to match the new performance intake manifold... there was an even bigger gain. This said, nothing compares to the now VTEC head on the same high compression B18A1, with its port work done and its performance intake manifold.
THANK YOU!!! For explaining what to chop on and more importantly WHY to chop it! First video connecting the dots and why porting makes sense! Thank you
I just learned more about basic porting than I thought existed. I'm sure Uncle Tony made it look easier than it is but I'm now happy to try it myself. Thanks.
Another great video Tony. One of my friends fathers helped me replace a head gasket years ago. While we had the head off, he did the same thing you just did. He said "we are just cleaning it up". I'm not sure of the horsepower it added but on a four cylinder car there was a big notice in gain when you floored it. I was surprised at the little bit of work that went into it and the big return. Thanks again for a great upload.
I always thought porting and polishing a head would be difficult.... it’s one thing I never bothered looking up. It’s one thing I’ve never even been okay trying...
But, now I shall practice on some junk gt40 heads I have... get it right so I can put new heads on the foxbody.
Thanks tony!
Its super difficult to truly learn, takes many yrs and trips to the flow bench.
Smoothing things most times may not hurt anything but dont expect to feel any gain from this.
Fabulous tutorial. I've never seen such a straight forward example of how to do a basic port cleanup and what that might produce. I feel confident to try my own now.
Message? "Stick to the basic cleanup and don't go crazy. You can't miss. Got it!"
Thanks for making it so easy to understand and not to panic out on details. Follow the Golden rules of keep it simple, upgrading the blueprints a little.
Very informative. I have some years of tool and die training and I feel that will be some help along with being a lifetime mechanic in my next project. I got a 97 Nissan pickup I’m doing a 302 bored to 306 with GT40P heads. My goal is to do exactly what you demonstrated in this video. Thank you for the information! It truly was exactly the information I needed from an experienced person that does hand porting.
That’s the best porting tutorial I’ve ever seen. Keep it simple.
You need to watch David Vizard or Eric Weingarten
@@doomman700 lol. I actually found David Vizard through another RUclipsr and that man is on another planet when it comes to making power. His knowledge is astounding.
Thanks Tony! Seeing you actually do this rather than just looking at small pix in a magazine really helps!
The BEST advice on porting I ever heard was, "...be the exhaust". It completely changed my thought process on porting. Can't remember where I heard it...................................................
Thanks Uncle Tony learned alot from watching your videos and I’ve been pulling wrenches for 40 years
this is the first practical porting advice i have seen. most always ruin heads i knew a man Tim Conolly worked at dyno center at dodge years ago where i learned what little i know about porting. he said its like a highway you want a smooth ride fuel and air want the same. he never gasket matched either he always made a gasket for the intake and gasket for head as they set on engine and port matched the ports. gasket matching always leaves a bump or as he said a ditch in the road because gaskets are always larger than the port.
All this time I’ve heard the term “port and polished” and I finally understand what it’s trying to describe and you said the polish isn’t necessary. I thought it was about making ports bigger but you explain it’s about uniformity to flow more gases through.
Thank you for your efforts and time spent in making this video. Very generous and- very helpful. The detail is much appreciated explaining not only the how but the why. Bonus - explaining the tooling and some methods and techniques along with it.
Man I really want to thank you for your time in making these videos. Im always doing things on a budget and can't wait to build a street rod. But first I need to get my f350 finished. It has a 460 I tore down. The bearing were wiped with a lot of dirt so I'm see sanding the crank and I found the weak spot is the heads. And if I put a nice RV cam in it the heads will fight me. So I'm keeping the pistons and rings and rehoning the cylinders. Then cleaning the oil galleys and block. Then sanding the crank and plastic gauge. Then grinding the heads and lapping the valves. Anyways thanks again
If you're really interested in engine tuning and building, there's a couple books out there that are very interesting. One is "Tuning for speed" by Phil irving, he was a british engine designer responsible for Triumph's 500 and 650 twins as well as a number of other designs. The other is "Tuning secrets from Smokey Yunic" Both are pretty extensive, Irving's being more engineering, Smokey's being more hands on and a lot of great information on making an engine that will perform and last.
Phil Irving was an Australian, he worked for a while in Britain and when he returned to Australia started Perfectune engineering and Yella Terra heads.
I recommend David Vizards book if you want good reading material
Gunna give that a read !
Back in the day as a kid , I'd have pops port my heads.
Keep it mild , just like this vid here and you'll be golden.
And my butt dyno never lied I could always feel an increase.
yup, those pucker points tell all.
MrHillfolk, I gotta remember that term, Butt Dyno !! Good one Sir.
@@robertclymer6948
Haha mines pretty old , but I see they have new ones 🤣
I heard that one from my old hs shop teacher almost 30 some odd years ago
www.onehotlap.com/2014/05/a-real-butt-dyno-anyone.html?m=1
This video reminded me of the high performance engines class I had at UNOH years ago.
Same lessons I was taught by the instructor and still hold true.
Continue to share your knowledge and experience Uncle Tony.
Thanks for that live feed UT! I was really enjoying the head porting footage. This video reminds me of old headbyts YT channel and his in depth explanation and guidance of the why's and how less is more until it's a race motor. Really explaining the importance of low lift flow and the low hanging fruit providing the butt Dyno gains for a street build. I am super excited to see the results. I am sure that the area under the curve below 4000 will be impressive and rewarding. Keep it up.
Those vids were scary...wouldnt be getting my money!
I hand ported my 225 slant 6 in 1974 using the same methods, I have done my motorcycles and chain saws as well. it works well.
Great video instead of having to explain it to my son now I can just show him this video thank you
Thanks for the tips short but sweet and straight to the point.
Thank you sooo much for passing on your knowledge of porting engine heads!
😇🙏👍
Thank you uncle tony, its been so long since ive done something like this i needed a reminder because im thinking about rebuilding the 318 in my ramcharger soon.
Nice, i like how you explaned what your doing.
a good tip especially for people who may not to confident with a die grinder and/or uncomfortable working around the seats, look into getting some guards 3d printed to protect them. the ones I made for my engine were just 1.5mm thick and cover the contact area of the seat and 2mm below it. if the cutting head of the burr hits them it will grind through in about 2 seconds, but that's 2 extra seconds to get the cutter away from the seat when it would have instantly damaged them without the guard.
Oh I like this, definitely going to make some when I do mine
UT thank you for the lesson. I got a lot of information. I’ve always had a fear of home porting, not anymore
Good stuff! I build/port and polish roughly 6 sets of heads per week(well, this year is slow as I have very few either strip or track cars as the season is postponed)...and often I'll compare the before and after on our flow bench. UT is absolutely correct when he says that you really don't need to go crazy and make it look like a museum piece. Simple contouring, blending and dulling edges will go a long way. Also, on some heads, the valve(s) may be "shrouded" by the chamber. Unshrouding is also very beneficial...albeit a little more tricky for the home mechanic. However, IF you do take your head to a shop like ours and you're getting a basic valve job...it literally takes no more work to take that shroud off with the Serdi while cutting for new hard seats or re-cutting the old. Also, it take's no more expense for the shop to really do any amount of angle work. It's simply a cutting head on the machine which will leave either 3, 5, 7 or a radius. For street cars, I usually cut 5 angles on the intake and radius the exhaust. Seems that combo works really well...along with re facing the back cutting the valves themselves.
Never heard of radius cutting valves.
I ported my 993 sbc heads myself, I had access to a flowbench at the time. Really helped me to learn what worked and what didn't.
Im gonna try this for the first time . I don't think I would have if not for your video. Thank you ....
That was a very helpful video. Takes all the voodoo magic out of porting and polishing and gives you confidence to get after it yourself. Thanks uncle Tony!
Smoothing...is one thing porting is an ability that can be pretty involve takes many yrs to get proficient at
Most YT vids are "what not to do" lol
That's where the power is lot of people don't know this good video Tony 👍
Thank you Uncle Tony. I didn't realize this would be that easy.. I just started on my 69 273 Dart and even I can handle this. It always scared me but after watching your video it's a piece of cake. 👍
awesome video, i always hear people talking about how porting doesn't yield much in the way of results but they are testing modern engines that don't quite benefit as much as these older castings with non canted valves and fairly primitive designs that don't necessarily lend themselves to laminar flow from the factory
I did this on some cast iron sm blk Ford heads with 1.90/1.60 valves that I bought from Indy cylinder head years ago.....the engine is still running w/low miles in a 1983 Mustang GT that I never finished painting.
I'm about to work on a 318 in a Ramcharger....this is good info! 👍
you are very lucky. when i was in your age bracket, i had to have at least 3 - 100 watt light sources (or work in direct sunlight) in order to see well enough to port heads. and yeah, i learned the hard way about brazed carbide cutters. only back then, the solid cutters were in the $10.00 - 25.00 each range. i miss working on engines so much. it was the most satisfying thing (except for the kids) i ever did.
Following this build closely getting ready to do a build almost identical to this one. Starting with a 360 from a 1974 motor home that I picked up super cheap. Runs great now but needs all new gaskets and freeze plugs from sitting most of it's life. Motor and trannsmission have 74,000 original miles. Want the same type of build you are doing for a fun little daily driver. Drive train will be going into a 1980 D100 short bed 2 wheel drive. Thank you for sharing your knowledge freely so others can learn.
I guarantee the exhaust seat by the heat crossover is sunk so bad it can't be fixed. So, good heads to practice on!
Cool video on basic porting.65 to 70 percent off performance is found in bowl/throat area 25 percent in the short turn and 15 percent or there about is found in port runner roof like ut says not the floor. vavle percentage when it comes to bowl and throat big is never better it all about mean port velocity. One thing to remember is on intake side the port runner starts a inch or 2 into they intake manifold.happy porting
👍 That Marathon SB build was epic!!! 🔥
Tony thank you very much for that incredible live engine rebuild.i can’t tell you how much i enjoyed it and I’m sorry I couldn’t watch the whole thing there was a duck dynasty marathon on and it was difficult for me to choose but thank you for all that I saw please do another one soon
Next live video: Charger vs. Charger rematch! Make it happen :)
Tremendous video, thanks Tony. Just what I was wanting, makes it look so easy and the description of the "why" is equally good.
Thanks Tony your Gods Gift to building a great engine.Being a backyard mechanic all my life at age 67 this will help my build on my 340 heads when I do my tare down.I have no Idea about this motor so it may have already been done.As radical as the cam sounds with a stall converter will see.One thing I did notice is the Quick response of acceleration and it has with an 850 double pumper.After putting summit roller rockers good change of royal purple racing oil the RPMs are even quicker.I went with Straight 40 synthetic. Thank you much for your video it is truly very helpful.Hope to get my T-shirt soon
Great video totally makes sense never realized how much difference a little smoothing out the ports would make thank you
Honestly it really doesnt. But probably wont hurt either.
Even in the automotive world the simplest things mean alot......thanks U.T.
Awsome video, nice to know what is important and what is not. Cant wait for the final product.
Dam . You really laid it out man.
The shit was just pouring out.
I'm saving this one.
One of the common tems we all know is the "bowl". But I like to think of it as the "bell": done right, that is the basic profile you get on an intake port if you sawed the head in half - rounded on top, a slight taper to the walls, and a roundish flare at the opening where the valve seat is.
Thanks for keeping it simple - improvements don't have to be race winning to boost the fun factor of a daily driver.
“Let your vision be like water making its way through the ports. Grind off anything that is assertive to your flow, but adjust the object impeding your flow, and you shall find a way around or through it. If nothing within you stays rigid, outward things will disclose themselves into atomized flow of gasses into and out of the cylinder.
Empty your obstructions to flow, be formless. Shapeless, like water. If you put water into a port, it becomes the port. You put water into a cylinder and it becomes the cylinder. You compress it by a piston, it becomes highly explosive. Now, air fuel mixture can flow or it can crash. Be water flowing, my friend.” : Uncle Tony or Bruce or someone I forget
Nice.
Great video on the basics of head porting. It seems like other people are afraid to tell you this stuff. The ones that know it anyways.
It was awesome to kinda spend the day the with u guys on the live stream,i really appreciate it, thank u
the basic simple porting job, BRAVO! each flaw can knock a percentage of power away.
investment plaster castings (jewelry) are smaller but get flaws just like sand cast will.
putting all the lines straight+smoother is going to open it up 4-5% at the least, that nugget in the header side was at least that much all by itself! what you just showed combined with back facing the valves will do a LOT for making torque power out of this DD project... piston flipped 360 stroke with the "doctored" 318 heads, really nice oddball combo to start with. it'll likely out-do bottle rocket (unsprayed) when done.
Uncle Tony,thank you for showing me this.well now i was only going to do valve lash adjustment.Down the road i might take the motor apart just to do this.
Super helpful, was planning to do my Ford FE heads , now I’m more confident in the how to and why. Thanks!
Your a beast Tony we all love you!
Start calling UT the head doctor lol!!
Thank you for all the videos you do keep them coming all your knowledge you pass on helps a million !!!
As usual, right to the point, and VERY well explained, anxious for my t-shirt...
Nice to see a real "Car Guy, Expert Mechanic-Engine Builder" , not a show-boy actor, pushing high dollar parts, for Aftermarket suppliers! Like MOST car TV and RUclips shows. Especially the ones who don black Nitrile gloves, to replace a wiper blade or radio!
Loving it! Great car. Add to the bottom of your list, "work on your speedo when your bored!" (nice when they work especially when cops around). Stay safe everyone!
Thanks the price of the die grinder bit is a good reason I like the show, everything I own is a daily driver I watch$$. That said I have a 1997 truck with 340,000 miles with lots of tweeks and original engine no tear down owned since new. The tweeks your talking about can also extend longevity if you keep your foot out of it. Lol thank you
Fantastic video unc! I’ve watched a few videos on porting and either ended with less of a understanding or couldn’t follow because of the technical lingo. You explain it very well and show your work, I can actually say I learned a good bit from this one.
This is the fun stuff. I love making hp without spending a million dollars. Very rewarding.
Good to see you're up and moving brother man, dammit Tony you know you're getting too old for that shit. Good to see you made it without totally blowing up on anybody. The caliper thing was close. And a tip of the hat to Uncle Kathy. For putting up with your old ass. You got my old ass inspired to do something with this 72 360 in the motorhome with 3700 miles on it. 360, 727..just need something to put it in. The only thing that disappointed me was Lamie didn't bring his twang box and sing.
Nice video with good practical instruction for the regular working guy.
Damnit! I just did this on a set of GT40 heads. Though I learned a lot I Completely missed the valve bowl. Awesome video
That's not how Audie Murphy would have dunit. Always a great video.
Thank you, for the info.
I now have confidence to move forward with some porting work.