When I was a kid and my Dad was working on the trucks, he would hand me the parts. In front of me, a pail of gasoline and a brush. "When You give it back, I want it clean." He inspected everything and made certain it was right. I know, gas fumes are bad for you. Well, it was the 70's and we lived in the bush. This was the only way to clean the parts back then.Taught me to do things right,
This is by far the most exciting build. We’ve been bombarded with “performance” builds for so long, we’ve forgotten about the meat and potatoes of “daily performance”. This thing is going to surprise the heck out of anyone who rides in it or drives it with the seat of the pants out of the hole torque. I have my bone stock original 1966 Chevy 396 with the extremely lame .398 lift “325 hp” (very optimistic in my opinion, more like 290) cam set up the same way. I limited the total mechanical, put in a medium/light spring combination and shaved the weights a bit to lighten them up. Vacuum advance plugged into FULL MANIFOLD so that she fades out based on throttle position. Even with tall 2:73 rear gears she’s a friggin neck snapper and is an absolute joy to drive anywhere. Not to mention the gas mileage is better than most modern v8’s with fuel injection. Can’t wait for an on board cruise in this thing with Uncle Kathy manning the camera of course!
UTG.. Tony I’ve been watching since around the start of his channel because he’s different then all the other car channels on RUclips. He’s passing down valuable old school information that not many people left around know. No bullshit to the point informative information
You heard it here folks, a real man has about as much use for an ultrasonic cleaner as they do for a douche nozzle! I love that you're not just old school because you're stuck in your ways, you actually have good reasons for doing things the way you do.
Thanks for the crysler knowledge Uncle Tony just picked up a 69 Plymouth Satellite 383 4 Speed manual has the High Performance 383 didn't realize it till i got it home and really looked at everything and its all numbers matching car it's in rough shape going to do the right thing and restore it back to original spec always wanted one now I got many of hours of hard enjoyable work ahead of me but it will be worth it when its done
My moms friend who passed away recently was a mechanic and I remember him telling me when I was young cleanliness is next to godliness when youre taking an engine apart and cleaning it.. He had me cleaning all the valves by hand and bolts and everything. Sadly that c10 was just too far gone for my project car (I was 16 and had no money) but I got some good lessons from him helping me. It was really a free donor vehicle that was more of a learning tool.
dont beat yourself up i did the same with a 75 caddy, ended up sending it to the junkyard it was so rotten there wasn't a single straight panel on it, still learned a huge amount about engines from it
I think a lot of people don’t realize how important the timing is. I’ve seen guys “tune by ear”, ball park it, let the chips fall where they may, but I treat it as the Mona Lisa of every engine.
Gas is the best solvent. Diesel fuel is a little safer. Wire wheel on a drill for me and my limited budget now. Always learning stuff from Tony. Stuff I've sort of got a idea about or I've stumbled onto confirmed. These lessons will come in handy for a long time. Thx Tony.
Back in high school we would power brake the car until it sounded good and would turn the tires at the lowest RPM while we were underneath the hood turning the distributor. We would probably all go to jail nowadays for trying that stuff!
This is where i had an edge over a lot of guys racing in the early 90's. Most were clueless about this, my buddy mentored me and it paid off. Ignition timing and mapping was the most overlooked aspect of performance. I beat a trailer queen twice in the 1/4 mile. He came over with his buddies looking around under my hood with flashlights mumbling about me having a hidden nitrous kit. Best compliment ever😂
You speak 100% truth sir. I learned 90% of those lessons the hard way, but once I got it right, the Mexican tire shop that sold used take offs knew my first name. Lol
Ya know it's a strange thing. I love, have always loved, and still love old Mopars with thumping v8's. Yet I am loving Uncle Tony's videos on the slant 6 and this perfect daily driver. Just loving the casualness of a fun driving old car. 👍 Keep up the excellent content Tony and Kathy.
Hey Uncle Tony, you and Steve Dulcich need to get together and build a car. You both have enough Mopar parts and knowledge. That would make a great video series.
So much science in this series. Very nice to see some old school solutions that translate to real world applications today. My old shop teacher used to tell me that if a bad part passes through your hand and goes into your engine, it's Your Fault. If you clean and inspect every part by hand individually, you have no excuses, and less problems.
This reminds me off something I tried a very long time ago. Hose clamped a “L” bracket to the distributor and hooked it to a choke cable from NAPA. I just left the hold down bolt a little bit loose so I could adjust my timing from the driver seat. It did work but I don’t remember a lot of other details because it was the 70s and if you can remember the 70s, you weren’t really there. 😉
Haha nice , stepping back in time to move forward. I've seen setups like that on old stuff from the 20s-30s-40s. I took the electronic fuel injection off of a modern diesel ,and used the previous generations mechanical injection for the best of both worlds. The modern engine is top notch reliable, it's the electronics that suck, so use the reliable mechanical injection and cruise with no worries until your hair falls out. Haha I love it when old tech meets new tech and combines for an unstoppable setup.
I so wish UT had been my instructor at LA Trade Tech instead of the Eastern European guy droning on reading from the text book about all the different types of washers and how to sharpen a screwdriver. UT has my complete attention and makes the lesson clear and to the point. Thanks UT!!
Wire Wheel For The Win! That's how I have done it since I started driving in 1973. Well, I started with a wire brush, until I made my first million, then I bought an electric grinding wheel with a wire wheel on one end. lol
Uncle T, in almost every other video, you always seem to mention at least one problem I have faced or I am currently facing with a project. Thanks for always lending a hand, I really appreciate it.
Great teaching video Tony , I'm currently reconditioning the 225 slant in my 66 valiant ( called a AP6 in Australia) and what I've learnt from you so far is great , really enjoy watching your videos mate .
Sweet! My second car was an AP5 (near enough to 6, I reckon.) But my first was a VG Pacer hardtop (250 2 bbl), and it's hard for anything to compare well after that. :-P
Wire wheels are great, whether on a bench grinder or hand grinder, or the ones that you can chuck up in a drill. The only drawback is that there are some places where they just don't fit, so for that reason I'm considering getting a sand blasting cabinet.
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 threads and shaft of a bolt that need wire wheeled because of rust or gack it won't hurt them. I stay off the heads if they are coated bolts and when reinstalling them I may use a light film of oil or antisieze or loctite depending on the use.
I'm glad Uncle Tony's not selling time shares or some crazy investments cause I'd be in big trouble with my Wife. Everything he says is so compelling. Who doesn't want to build a Mopar after running across this channel.
More DIAMONDS AND GOLD on the table! TYVM, SIR! Some day, folx will realize, it's not what's in your wallet...or the next new gizmo. It's in your GREY CELLS! You, sir are a treasure for passing your knowledge and experience on. Dad used to say " I gots my distributor machine right here" and he'd pull out the timing light, and a VOM. He wasn't a hot rodder,BUT he knew how to use his tools. And the two MOST POWERFUL ones were his intellect and power of observation.
Tony im not gonna argue with the way you do things i just wanna say this about bolts...i do NOT hate the vibratory tumbler i got a few years ago from Cabela's. Bolts sure look pretty if you give em some time. Im sure you got something similar to what im gonna describe too...i got a GM (mainly oldsmobile because thats my brand of choice) bucket of "special" bolts. After a min of 35 years ive been scrapping and adding to that bucket. Only recently have i soaked a handful in parts washer, let em dry, then vibratory tumbler. Its kinda like a n.o.s. bolt bin for the vehicles i mess with the most. I know its different from your method but pretty sure you wont hate my comment. So many people dont understand total timing. Your description is best ive seen on here. Thanks again brother for doing your thing. Another channel recently did their take on vacuum advance and ported vs manifold vacuum. I didnt hate their video but yours was so much more simple for those who dont know and can learn and understand. Vac advance in old cars does have its place and you described perfectly what that place is. Man just keep it up my friend. Love your vids
I had a old 70 Buick Skylark it loved fast in time!! When you said pump gas n hold slite peddle made me smile!! When my old Buick cranked to start it went, yink- yink - Vroom. Cause she was fast in time , but she was ready just off idle !!!
Tony, 2 things; 1) I had an old 64 Fairlane, 302 2V Auto All stock. 3.50 gear, non posi. I put a 'curve kit' in the distributior usinf the lightest springs in the kit. Ran factory specs for initial timing & ran 1 range hotter plugs. off idle when I was 'into it' that car was quick to jump off the line & if I wasn't careful it'd fry the right rear tire! (Larger and wider than original.) 2) Did the same thing on my 440 powered 62 Plymouth bracket racer. my buddy was gonna "fix me up" and welded my dual point distributor and ran it on his distributor machine. End result? I had to physically retard the distributor a bunch so it would even crank fast enough to start! My other buddy (a life long Mopar guy) wired in a Mopar electronic distributor and the ignition box, again I put two lightest springs in it and Wah lah! Instantt start, ran like a Bear! (I was happy with my old dual point until it was cannibalized! Grrrrr')
Ok, this shows just how far technology had come even by the mid 1990s. My friend's Honda B18A1 with ported 1995 Integra GS-R VTEC head engine that I helped rebuild with high compression pistons, will not idle well unless it is lean and has more idle advance than stock. The car idles at 15.5:1 (average) AFR with 18 degrees of ignition timing. If I try to go for the factory 16 degrees of ignition timing, it stumbles. Not sure what the factory had them idle at for AFR, but all I know is that his engine loves to idle lean with lots of advance. And even with 12.5:1 compression the engine does not like to be over 13.5:1 AFR even under heavy load and high RPM (in VTEC). I have his ignition advance set as high as 42 degrees and the car just loves it. Edit: Ah, ok, so you are actually tuning the ignition closer to what my friend's engine runs, so it seems that the biggest difference is the performance and economy are being built into his LS/VTEC engine at the same time. Granted, I am comparing a computer controlled 1.8 liter 4 banger from the early 1990s to a V8 with a carb. and mechanical ignition system. But I love seeing how things over lap and how things have changed over the years! I have said it before, but, I love this channel.
Haha this reminds me of back in the day on my 83 GTI. I was goofing around with something, but didn't have a timing light to set the timing. So I set it by ear and a decent idle speed. Ran like gangbusters , but one hot day I heard a little ping. So I stopped at my buddy's place because he had a timing light. It's supposed to have like 6 btdc and I had about 25! They were curved for emissions of course , and I was like 18 so I didn't know what I know 29 years later. Haha I like to look back at stuff I did as a kid and wish sometimes I knew what I know now. haha me and everyone who's thinking this could have ruled the streets that exist in our heads.
your friend is running a bit too lean in vtec/wide open throttle 13.5:1 is getting risky especially if he is on 91 octane pump gas with that high of a compression ratio he is asking for trouble. The car should really be around 12.5:1 in vtec/heavy load you need a little bit of extra fuel to help cool the combustion chamber so you don't melt a piston or run into detonation. On NA cars general rule of thumb is air fuel ratio in the 12's and with a power adder like boost or spray you want it in the 11's. Your friend should really switch to e85 he would pick up some power with that high of compression and it would be safer.
@@GnarshredProductions Normally you would be right about those things, however, if I try to tune the engine into the 12:1 AFR range, no matter what I do with the ignition timing, the engine does not like it. If I tune the engine anymore rich than we have it set, it is not happy, regardless of what I do with ignition timing. Without the VTEC head, the engine ran fine at closer to 12:1 under heavy load. With the VTEC head it wants to run leaner. I am guessing the GS-R head's quench area must be the biggest reason why. We have, with current tune, had no issues with his car, and it runs like a scalded ass ape.
@@Carstuff111 you could have other issues, honestly a small air fuel ratio change shouldn't make a huge difference in power ive run as rich as 10:1 on a turbo single cam and the difference between that and 12:1 was only slightly noticable when street tuning. Make sure there are no exhaust leaks because that can throw off the wideband readings, also good spark and proper gap is important ive had a lot of issues in the past with blowing out spark where there was a stumble or engine was breaking up under load and its usually because of weak spark. It's never a bad idea to do new spark plugs, cap and rotor, and wires if you can.
It really blows my mind watching your videos. It really lets me know just how much I don’t know! Clever mod with the advance. I’ve never seen that before (which isn’t too surprising). Great video!
As soon as I think I understand how a system works on an engine, Uncle Tony breaks it down to where I feel like an idiot all over again. 🤣 Thanks for the lesson! I absolutely love this channel and always look forward to you next video! You and Uncle Cathy rock! Thanks again!
It's called experience U.T. and you were willing to listen and learn as a youngster. I'm finding a lot of the youngsters now know it all and wont listen. Not all obviously. Keep up the good work mate.
I see all these other channels out there, there vids go for 10mins but its almost grueling to watch or ya tend to drift off and forget it. A 10min vid from Uncle Tony just isnt enough. I find myself always awaiting the next sentence out of your mouth. Basically all the points you make are valid, tryed and tested or common sense. Your a Diamond in the rough of all the youtube bs, a true god amongst men with an encyclopedia of knowledge. Keep up the great work Uncle Tony and Uncle Kathy, thank goodness for you both and stay safe 😊 these old mopars and assorted classics are lucky to have ya in their life
I have a friend thats consistently trying to get me to convert to EFI and EI and I never thought the gains were even worth it but thanks to you Tony I've come to think the gains don't really exist. Maybe just learn about tuning carbs first before you dump dollars on a car in hope that something good happens. I'm sure there are people who don't even know how to set points that think they need to convert to some $5,000 EFI setup and they will actually empty their bank account and fight with their wife over it. THANKS Tony. I've learned about tuning carbs cuz of you, even if I forget a lot of it
I was always taught watch your plugs for a few weeks when you build a new engine it'll tell you alot about whats goin on....timing,fuel (lean/rich mix) ECT alot of time those plugs will tell you alot....always a great and interesting vid.....
hey UT...when i was 18 in the army down in texas ,i had a brown 318 cuda .did a bunch of top end races . the engine would start to break up around 4500 rpm unless it had new plugs in it .finally figured out total timing was almost 50 degrees with base at 14 degrees ! that 318 took a beating ! 340 cam,holley street dominator with a 600 holley ,and cyclone headers.ran high 14.90 at 95 mph with 2.73 gears. 130 top end. welded the slot like you said ,no more killing plugs . that was back in 1978 . still have the car.
One of the best channels man..I love what your doing I've learned a ton from you.... I always loved making power on the cheap by just using your head and modifying what you have
Thanks Uncle Tony I still use brushes to clean my parts and a wire wheel if I have it. Work out of tool boxes and putting a wire brush in a drill with button lock.
Cracked bolts are the least of your problems Tony...I'm kiddin', I'M KIDDIN'! Your channel ROCKS! I think I'll hook up some leads and weld on some distributor innards with 7018.😳
I have an old book from the seventies that has been my ignition Bible. I am pretty sure UT wrote it. I usually chuck that vacuum advance because I drive it like I stole it. Though I must admit the Fifth Ave still is all original. Great video as usual. We got the Locomotive 302 out the door, three heads and two power assemblies. I rewired the headlights on the 116 with high voltage lights. Thanks for loving all machines, if you get out west let me know so you can get a tour.
Excellent video Uncle , I can agree with you more about the distributor . I was fortunate when I built my stroker 383 my friend is a excellent mechanic and helped me tune it . Keep up the great videos . Cheers
Good to see you recurving the distributor......so many guys leave toque/driveability on the table by not working with the timing curve. On my Ford builds I welded up the "shoe" and then filed it open until I got what I wanted with the spring changes I made. Makes a big difference when you step into it and for gas mileage, too.
@Lassi Kinnunen well yeah but you can't have a car that does everything no matter what, I just don't see the point in converting to modern everything thats all
I deliberately waited until Saturday evening to watch because I knew that I wouldn't be interrupted! You're right, us GM guys/girls are lucky, especially when it comes to our HEI distributors. I also used to run Accel Super Coils exclusively, even with the HEI because they had the HEI Intensifier Kit. These days though, they're getting a bit hard to find. One thing that I think you should've mentioned is that, when working with ANY distributor ignition, a quality timing light is worth its weight in gold. Maybe you could do a video on how to properly use a timing light, just to show those viewers that haven't used one. I LOVE the Actron digital light that I bought a few years ago. It took me a while to figure out all the features but it was well worth the time. On the other hand, I also still use my tach/dwell meter a lot too lol!
This is cool stuff, any A-hole can go buy MSD but here tony is showing us all how to modify stock parts for performance. I’ve learned so much about older stuff watching this channel and a few others
Your videos come across my feed as a recommendation and must say after watching a handful I can listen to you all day long! I like how you explain, you get to the point and know your stuff. Heck, I've already learned so much just in this vid alone. I just hit that Subscribe Button, Thanks Tony and keep those vids coming! Cheers & God Bless.
I do the same thing Tony, inspect each part, nut and bolt individually while cleaning them and list down replacements needed if any require it. It might be time consuming up front but all comes together to save in assembly time.
I'm telling you Tony you're the real deal when it comes to turning with points and carb set up. If you ever want to show these people how much you know about the gen 3 hemi I have one I'm going to build if you want me to bring it to your shop with the parts & cash to do another build series?
I had a friend with a Nissan 4 banger from the late 80's early 90's (I may be wrong on that, it may have been a bit earlier.) It was a small 5 speed manual car (I forget the model, but not a sports car.). Stock, it was a slug and would just do for getting you to the grocery store and back, but with the timing advanced and a good set of plugs and wires he ran with a lot of vehicles with twice the displacement and embarrassed a lot of people. Timing is a HUGE deal when it comes to both peak power and when the power comes in. His being a FWD, he didn't need a lot of power or he would break traction until around 4k RPM, but after that, the little thing was a ripper.
Wealth of knowledge! I'm a driveway mechanic for my own cars and some of my close friends cars, but i never built a motor before. Because of UT & Vise Grip I'm actively looking to replace my "spare car" Mazda with a mid 70's amc Jeep.
Timing is everything!! True statement. Like you, I do things the way I do because of a reason. Everything. Being aware is number one in all of life. I've been swamped and haven't watched this whole series, but man, that engine sure is looking good mang! 🚬🚬🚬
I have learned to wrench the old school way cleaning bolts, pushrods,etc with the wire wheel on the bench grinder it gets parts really clean and then clean it with solven,gas or diesel even simple green love your videos
I power tuned my AMC 360. Made the distributor by cutting off the Chevy one and welded it to the AMC base. When I did the weights, I went with the medium springs and soldered so much lead on the weights to get the curve I wanted that I had to shave off the plastic ribbing on the inside of the rotor so the rotor would fit. I would almost lift the front end off the ground on a launch. When I would just rev it, it would twist the body on the tires and rock the whole Jeep Wagoneer I put it in. A 4250 lb. SUV, LOL.
Usually what causes this is worn lobes on the distributor shaft. Not saying the bush/bearing whatever isn't worn but yeah the lobes flog out and any slop in the shaft is made 10x worse because the lobes are rubbed down. This is especially true if vac advance is connected. As the vac comes on during cruise the breaker plate pulls the points away from the lobes and the motor stops or misfires. I had this on a stock 383 dist.
I was 600 miles from home it wouldn't run above or below fifty miles an hour I drove all the way home at fifty. It was a long ride in a Datsun pick up bet I made it. I traded it for a 1975 Grandville convertible with a 455.
Thanks for your explanation of performance ignition total timing. I wish I had watched your videos a few years ago. Everything you explained is absolutely spot on! Could you do a video on timing vs. altitude? I am at 6,000 feet and have a VW aircooled engine. Ignition timing has a huge effect on power output, too much or too little makes for less power. I really like how you explained to rotate the mechanical advance to see the total timing. I started doing that 2 months ago. Should have been doing it years ago! Thanks!
Very interesting. I am trying to get a Datsun 140 to run as a daily drive. Took the manual and set timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Terrible idle with loads of backfiring through the carb. So redoing the timing again on the engine before setting up the carb again.
I did the same thing with my 351W. I modified my mechanical advance to only give 10 degrees. My initial timing is set at 25 degrees for a total of 35 with a set of light springs.🤘
Mr. Gasket #923 spring kit. Cheap and it brings a standard auto distributor all in by 1100rpm. Perfect for mild builds. MoPar specific of course, they made them for everything back in the day. You'll have to check to see what's available for the other makes.
Wow tons of interesting info to absorb. The compression on my 498 BBC is 9.75 to 1. Cannot wait to try a 20-degree initial with 38-degree total. During engine dyno 38-degrees made the most WOT power. I am still using stock GM dizzy with vacuum advance. Hopefully the engine won’t ping with such an aggressive timing curve. If it does will back off a bit. Thx
Had the same throttle linkage being too short problem with my '70 LeMans (my first car) when I converted it to a four barrel. Made brackets from my old Mechano set, and it worked fine!
I used to use the old wire clothes hangers to extend my linkage...soft enough to custom bend with some needle nose pliers and strong enough not to fail on the road.
With the 904 and 727 Torqueflites, the line pressure spring can be adjusted to the high, "shift kit" length setting and that is the maximum line pressure the transmission is designed to run at when the throttle is wide open with a, "normal" line pressure spring setting, but the transmission line pressure runs at that pressure full time and then the throttle pressure linkage is not required to be attached. If the normal line pressure is used without the throttle pressure linkage connected, the the transmission can slip, wear and become damaged. Tightening the line pressure spring eliminates the need for the throttle pressure linkage and the transmission will live a long life with firmer shifts at part throttle. Still don't tighten the spring too much. There are recommended shift kit length adjustments for it and the shift kit isn't needed. In the Mopar distributor, there are two springs on the advance weights, a long light spring and a stiff, heavy spring. The long, light spring allows quick advance, while heavy spring limits the full advance, until very high RPM. For quicker, full advance, the heavy spring can be removed, or both springs can be replaced with a Mopar Performance advance spring kit that has two short, light springs. With the full advance in so early, the vacuum advance would add too much advance at part throttle as the vacuum can is tuned for the restricted weight advance. Leave the vacuum advance conected in the distributor, but don't hook up the vacuum to it. Total timing can be set at mid range RPM and the initial advance should be good for starting and idling. Quicker and / or more advance will require richer jetting in the carb(s).
Good video uncle Tony I could remember guys in the early days mapping the distributor on the bench and changing the springs cleaning them up greasing connections.... I don’t know how they did it but there was some sort of a bench set up to “map distributors” I wouldn’t mind seeing how that works if you happen to know how
Uncle T. is incredibly generous with his sharing of automotive knowledge. Can’t thank you enough!
you dont put full advance in a street car, are you crazy?
When I was a kid and my Dad was working on the trucks, he would hand me the parts. In front of me, a pail of gasoline and a brush. "When You give it back, I want it clean." He inspected everything and made certain it was right. I know, gas fumes are bad for you. Well, it was the 70's and we lived in the bush. This was the only way to clean the parts back then.Taught me to do things right,
Actually, that gas may not b so bad, compared to the nasty stuff in it now. U be fine
There was lead in the gas back then. Lead is very bad to have in your system
@@stuckinmygarage6220as lead?
This is by far the most exciting build. We’ve been bombarded with “performance” builds for so long, we’ve forgotten about the meat and potatoes of “daily performance”. This thing is going to surprise the heck out of anyone who rides in it or drives it with the seat of the pants out of the hole torque. I have my bone stock original 1966 Chevy 396 with the extremely lame .398 lift “325 hp” (very optimistic in my opinion, more like 290) cam set up the same way. I limited the total mechanical, put in a medium/light spring combination and shaved the weights a bit to lighten them up. Vacuum advance plugged into FULL MANIFOLD so that she fades out based on throttle position. Even with tall 2:73 rear gears she’s a friggin neck snapper and is an absolute joy to drive anywhere. Not to mention the gas mileage is better than most modern v8’s with fuel injection. Can’t wait for an on board cruise in this thing with Uncle Kathy manning the camera of course!
Maybe she can ride in the trunk again like the charger video. Lol. What a trouper
i know ! i find these things way more interesting 🤨 than 500 Hp builds
UTG.. Tony I’ve been watching since around the start of his channel because he’s different then all the other car channels on RUclips. He’s passing down valuable old school information that not many people left around know. No bullshit to the point informative information
UNCLE KATHY IS FINALLY GETTING AIR CONDITIONING.
You heard it here folks, a real man has about as much use for an ultrasonic cleaner as they do for a douche nozzle! I love that you're not just old school because you're stuck in your ways, you actually have good reasons for doing things the way you do.
Thanks for the crysler knowledge Uncle Tony just picked up a 69 Plymouth Satellite 383 4 Speed manual has the High Performance 383 didn't realize it till i got it home and really looked at everything and its all numbers matching car it's in rough shape going to do the right thing and restore it back to original spec always wanted one now I got many of hours of hard enjoyable work ahead of me but it will be worth it when its done
My moms friend who passed away recently was a mechanic and I remember him telling me when I was young cleanliness is next to godliness when youre taking an engine apart and cleaning it.. He had me cleaning all the valves by hand and bolts and everything.
Sadly that c10 was just too far gone for my project car (I was 16 and had no money) but I got some good lessons from him helping me. It was really a free donor vehicle that was more of a learning tool.
dont beat yourself up i did the same with a 75 caddy, ended up sending it to the junkyard it was so rotten there wasn't a single straight panel on it, still learned a huge amount about engines from it
Whenever Im able to start my first project car, THESE are gonna be the videos i come back to for these little gems of advice.
I think a lot of people don’t realize how important the timing is. I’ve seen guys “tune by ear”, ball park it, let the chips fall where they may, but I treat it as the Mona Lisa of every engine.
CC Ryder for cammed motors you want to use manifold vacuum I believe but it could be ported vacuum what kind of carb do you have
CC Ryder watch this ruclips.net/video/WD_bhDq_8tY/видео.html
Gas is the best solvent. Diesel fuel is a little safer. Wire wheel on a drill for me and my limited budget now. Always learning stuff from Tony. Stuff I've sort of got a idea about or I've stumbled onto confirmed. These lessons will come in handy for a long time. Thx Tony.
Back in high school we would power brake the car until it sounded good and would turn the tires at the lowest RPM while we were underneath the hood turning the distributor. We would probably all go to jail nowadays for trying that stuff!
What's wrong with tuning by ear? what you got to have the timing light out everytime you set your timing?
This is where i had an edge over a lot of guys racing in the early 90's. Most were clueless about this, my buddy mentored me and it paid off. Ignition timing and mapping was the most overlooked aspect of performance. I beat a trailer queen twice in the 1/4 mile. He came over with his buddies looking around under my hood with flashlights mumbling about me having a hidden nitrous kit. Best compliment ever😂
You speak 100% truth sir. I learned 90% of those lessons the hard way, but once I got it right, the Mexican tire shop that sold used take offs knew my first name. Lol
Ya know it's a strange thing. I love, have always loved, and still love old Mopars with thumping v8's. Yet I am loving Uncle Tony's videos on the slant 6 and this perfect daily driver. Just loving the casualness of a fun driving old car. 👍 Keep up the excellent content Tony and Kathy.
Hey Uncle Tony, you and Steve Dulcich need to get together and build a car. You both have enough Mopar parts and knowledge. That would make a great video series.
Daniel Lawson yes!!!
What an great idea👍🏻
Two quirky guys....that would either work out really good or really bad lol
I would love this
Your teaching and break down is very calming to me 🔥 vid
So much science in this series. Very nice to see some old school solutions that translate to real world applications today.
My old shop teacher used to tell me that if a bad part passes through your hand and goes into your engine, it's Your Fault. If you clean and inspect every part by hand individually, you have no excuses, and less problems.
This reminds me off something I tried a very long time ago.
Hose clamped a “L” bracket to the distributor and hooked it to a choke cable from NAPA.
I just left the hold down bolt a little bit loose so I could adjust my timing from the driver seat.
It did work but I don’t remember a lot of other details because it was the 70s and if you can remember the 70s, you weren’t really there. 😉
Haha nice , stepping back in time to move forward.
I've seen setups like that on old stuff from the 20s-30s-40s.
I took the electronic fuel injection off of a modern diesel ,and used the previous generations mechanical injection for the best of both worlds.
The modern engine is top notch reliable, it's the electronics that suck, so use the reliable mechanical injection and cruise with no worries until your hair falls out.
Haha I love it when old tech meets new tech and combines for an unstoppable setup.
I so wish UT had been my instructor at LA Trade Tech instead of the Eastern European guy droning on reading from the text book about all the different types of washers and how to sharpen a screwdriver. UT has my complete attention and makes the lesson clear and to the point. Thanks UT!!
This is the sort of advice Trades men gave apprentices years ago.
So many tricks are lost,
The little things count
Wire Wheel For The Win! That's how I have done it since I started driving in 1973. Well, I started with a wire brush, until I made my first million, then I bought an electric grinding wheel with a wire wheel on one end. lol
Uncle T, in almost every other video, you always seem to mention at least one problem I have faced or I am currently facing with a project. Thanks for always lending a hand, I really appreciate it.
Great teaching video Tony , I'm currently reconditioning the 225 slant in my 66 valiant ( called a AP6 in Australia) and what I've learnt from you so far is great , really enjoy watching your videos mate .
Sweet! My second car was an AP5 (near enough to 6, I reckon.) But my first was a VG Pacer hardtop (250 2 bbl), and it's hard for anything to compare well after that. :-P
Wire wheel for the win! How I was raised and how I'll do it till I die.
Wire wheels are great, whether on a bench grinder or hand grinder, or the ones that you can chuck up in a drill. The only drawback is that there are some places where they just don't fit, so for that reason I'm considering getting a sand blasting cabinet.
Anywhere on the motor you shouldn't wire wheel?
Using a wire wheel doesn't damage the zinc plating or slightly roll over the edge (tip) of the threads?
@@thisisyourcaptainspeaking2259 threads and shaft of a bolt that need wire wheeled because of rust or gack it won't hurt them. I stay off the heads if they are coated bolts and when reinstalling them I may use a light film of oil or antisieze or loctite depending on the use.
@@SirkilzalotNV bores, journals, anyplace there's a bearing going or a moving part is my rule.
I'm glad Uncle Tony's not selling time shares or some crazy investments cause I'd be in big trouble with my Wife. Everything he says is so compelling. Who doesn't want to build a Mopar after running across this channel.
More DIAMONDS AND GOLD on the table! TYVM, SIR! Some day, folx will realize, it's not what's in your wallet...or the next new gizmo. It's in your GREY CELLS! You, sir are a treasure for passing your knowledge and experience on. Dad used to say " I gots my distributor machine right here" and he'd pull out the timing light, and a VOM. He wasn't a hot rodder,BUT he knew how to use his tools. And the two MOST POWERFUL ones were his intellect and power of observation.
Tony im not gonna argue with the way you do things i just wanna say this about bolts...i do NOT hate the vibratory tumbler i got a few years ago from Cabela's. Bolts sure look pretty if you give em some time.
Im sure you got something similar to what im gonna describe too...i got a GM (mainly oldsmobile because thats my brand of choice) bucket of "special" bolts. After a min of 35 years ive been scrapping and adding to that bucket. Only recently have i soaked a handful in parts washer, let em dry, then vibratory tumbler. Its kinda like a n.o.s. bolt bin for the vehicles i mess with the most.
I know its different from your method but pretty sure you wont hate my comment.
So many people dont understand total timing. Your description is best ive seen on here. Thanks again brother for doing your thing.
Another channel recently did their take on vacuum advance and ported vs manifold vacuum. I didnt hate their video but yours was so much more simple for those who dont know and can learn and understand. Vac advance in old cars does have its place and you described perfectly what that place is.
Man just keep it up my friend. Love your vids
I had a old 70 Buick Skylark it loved fast in time!! When you said pump gas n hold slite peddle made me smile!! When my old Buick cranked to start it went, yink- yink - Vroom. Cause she was fast in time , but she was ready just off idle !!!
I turned the carb into Racing Quadrajet on this Buick!! Fast timing n hard hitting Quadrajet big heavy car oh what fun!!!
Tony, 2 things; 1) I had an old 64 Fairlane, 302 2V Auto All stock. 3.50 gear, non posi. I put a 'curve kit' in the distributior usinf the lightest springs in the kit. Ran factory specs for initial timing & ran 1 range hotter plugs. off idle when I was 'into it' that car was quick to jump off the line & if I wasn't careful it'd fry the right rear tire! (Larger and wider than original.) 2) Did the same thing on my 440 powered 62 Plymouth bracket racer. my buddy was gonna "fix me up" and welded my dual point distributor and ran it on his distributor machine. End result? I had to physically retard the distributor a bunch so it would even crank fast enough to start! My other buddy (a life long Mopar guy) wired in a Mopar electronic distributor and the ignition box, again I put two lightest springs in it and Wah lah! Instantt start, ran like a Bear! (I was happy with my old dual point until it was cannibalized! Grrrrr')
Hey UTG could you make a video of your distributor after you have welded the slots on it to see how you do it?
I got super scared you were going to leave out vacuum advance - glad you went over it 🤙
Thanks for fighting the good fight.
Thunderhead289 @ RUclips
Ok, this shows just how far technology had come even by the mid 1990s. My friend's Honda B18A1 with ported 1995 Integra GS-R VTEC head engine that I helped rebuild with high compression pistons, will not idle well unless it is lean and has more idle advance than stock. The car idles at 15.5:1 (average) AFR with 18 degrees of ignition timing. If I try to go for the factory 16 degrees of ignition timing, it stumbles. Not sure what the factory had them idle at for AFR, but all I know is that his engine loves to idle lean with lots of advance. And even with 12.5:1 compression the engine does not like to be over 13.5:1 AFR even under heavy load and high RPM (in VTEC). I have his ignition advance set as high as 42 degrees and the car just loves it.
Edit: Ah, ok, so you are actually tuning the ignition closer to what my friend's engine runs, so it seems that the biggest difference is the performance and economy are being built into his LS/VTEC engine at the same time. Granted, I am comparing a computer controlled 1.8 liter 4 banger from the early 1990s to a V8 with a carb. and mechanical ignition system. But I love seeing how things over lap and how things have changed over the years! I have said it before, but, I love this channel.
Haha this reminds me of back in the day on my 83 GTI.
I was goofing around with something, but didn't have a timing light to set the timing.
So I set it by ear and a decent idle speed.
Ran like gangbusters , but one hot day I heard a little ping.
So I stopped at my buddy's place because he had a timing light.
It's supposed to have like 6 btdc and I had about 25!
They were curved for emissions of course , and I was like 18 so I didn't know what I know 29 years later.
Haha I like to look back at stuff I did as a kid and wish sometimes I knew what I know now.
haha me and everyone who's thinking this could have ruled the streets that exist in our heads.
your friend is running a bit too lean in vtec/wide open throttle 13.5:1 is getting risky especially if he is on 91 octane pump gas with that high of a compression ratio he is asking for trouble. The car should really be around 12.5:1 in vtec/heavy load you need a little bit of extra fuel to help cool the combustion chamber so you don't melt a piston or run into detonation. On NA cars general rule of thumb is air fuel ratio in the 12's and with a power adder like boost or spray you want it in the 11's. Your friend should really switch to e85 he would pick up some power with that high of compression and it would be safer.
@@GnarshredProductions Normally you would be right about those things, however, if I try to tune the engine into the 12:1 AFR range, no matter what I do with the ignition timing, the engine does not like it. If I tune the engine anymore rich than we have it set, it is not happy, regardless of what I do with ignition timing. Without the VTEC head, the engine ran fine at closer to 12:1 under heavy load. With the VTEC head it wants to run leaner. I am guessing the GS-R head's quench area must be the biggest reason why. We have, with current tune, had no issues with his car, and it runs like a scalded ass ape.
@@Carstuff111 you could have other issues, honestly a small air fuel ratio change shouldn't make a huge difference in power ive run as rich as 10:1 on a turbo single cam and the difference between that and 12:1 was only slightly noticable when street tuning. Make sure there are no exhaust leaks because that can throw off the wideband readings, also good spark and proper gap is important ive had a lot of issues in the past with blowing out spark where there was a stumble or engine was breaking up under load and its usually because of weak spark. It's never a bad idea to do new spark plugs, cap and rotor, and wires if you can.
It really blows my mind watching your videos. It really lets me know just how much I don’t know! Clever mod with the advance. I’ve never seen that before (which isn’t too surprising). Great video!
Nothing better than clean rebuilt engine! Pure art!
As soon as I think I understand how a system works on an engine, Uncle Tony breaks it down to where I feel like an idiot all over again. 🤣 Thanks for the lesson! I absolutely love this channel and always look forward to you next video! You and Uncle Cathy rock! Thanks again!
It's called experience U.T. and you were willing to listen and learn as a youngster. I'm finding a lot of the youngsters now know it all and wont listen. Not all obviously. Keep up the good work mate.
I see all these other channels out there, there vids go for 10mins but its almost grueling to watch or ya tend to drift off and forget it. A 10min vid from Uncle Tony just isnt enough. I find myself always awaiting the next sentence out of your mouth. Basically all the points you make are valid, tryed and tested or common sense. Your a Diamond in the rough of all the youtube bs, a true god amongst men with an encyclopedia of knowledge. Keep up the great work Uncle Tony and Uncle Kathy, thank goodness for you both and stay safe 😊 these old mopars and assorted classics are lucky to have ya in their life
I have a friend thats consistently trying to get me to convert to EFI and EI and I never thought the gains were even worth it but thanks to you Tony I've come to think the gains don't really exist. Maybe just learn about tuning carbs first before you dump dollars on a car in hope that something good happens. I'm sure there are people who don't even know how to set points that think they need to convert to some $5,000 EFI setup and they will actually empty their bank account and fight with their wife over it. THANKS Tony. I've learned about tuning carbs cuz of you, even if I forget a lot of it
I was always taught watch your plugs for a few weeks when you build a new engine it'll tell you alot about whats goin on....timing,fuel (lean/rich mix) ECT alot of time those plugs will tell you alot....always a great and interesting vid.....
hey UT...when i was 18 in the army down in texas ,i had a brown 318 cuda .did a bunch of top end races . the engine would start to break up around 4500 rpm unless it had new plugs in it .finally figured out total timing was almost 50 degrees with base at 14 degrees ! that 318 took a beating ! 340 cam,holley street dominator with a 600 holley ,and cyclone headers.ran high 14.90 at 95 mph with 2.73 gears. 130 top end. welded the slot like you said ,no more killing plugs . that was back in 1978 . still have the car.
Dropped in an FBO limiter plate, used the 18° slots and 16° initial. Runs perfect, no welding.
One of the best channels man..I love what your doing I've learned a ton from you.... I always loved making power on the cheap by just using your head and modifying what you have
Finally someone who agrees with me on locking out timing and vacuum advance with a performance oriented engine!
This is great. Im excited now lol. I never thought about limiting the travel on the weights. I've changed the size but never limited the travel.
You are the Professor Julius Sumner Miller of Mopar Uncle Tony. Why is it so? Loving this.
I continue to learn so much from you Tony. Thank you sir.
Thanks Uncle Tony
I still use brushes to clean my parts and a wire wheel if I have it. Work out of tool boxes and putting a wire brush in a drill with button lock.
Cracked bolts are the least of your problems Tony...I'm kiddin', I'M KIDDIN'! Your channel ROCKS! I think I'll hook up some leads and weld on some distributor innards with 7018.😳
WINDSOR !! What a beast. This is all we want for our muscle cars.
Terrific explanation on what to do & why you’re doing it. Excellent as always Uncle Tony.
Cheers😊
So much knowledge its unreal.. my boys and I watch your videos basically everyday
I have an old book from the seventies that has been my ignition Bible. I am pretty sure UT wrote it. I usually chuck that vacuum advance because I drive it like I stole it. Though I must admit the Fifth Ave still is all original. Great video as usual. We got the Locomotive 302 out the door, three heads and two power assemblies. I rewired the headlights on the 116 with high voltage lights. Thanks for loving all machines, if you get out west let me know so you can get a tour.
Excellent video Uncle , I can agree with you more about the distributor . I was fortunate when I built my stroker 383 my friend is a excellent mechanic and helped me tune it . Keep up the great videos . Cheers
Awesome! Been waiting for a more detailed UTG timing video.
Good to see you recurving the distributor......so many guys leave toque/driveability on the table by not working with the timing curve. On my Ford builds I welded up the "shoe" and then filed it open until I got what I wanted with the spring changes I made. Makes a big difference when you step into it and for gas mileage, too.
I will wait to see ya tomorrow, maybe Mothers Day, to see how it runs!! Great Vid, Tony, Stuff I know about!!
I never knew you could FULLY tune ignition with an old school distributor. I AM THE COMPUTER
@Lassi Kinnunen well yeah but you can't have a car that does everything no matter what, I just don't see the point in converting to modern everything thats all
I deliberately waited until Saturday evening to watch because I knew that I wouldn't be interrupted! You're right, us GM guys/girls are lucky, especially when it comes to our HEI distributors. I also used to run Accel Super Coils exclusively, even with the HEI because they had the HEI Intensifier Kit. These days though, they're getting a bit hard to find. One thing that I think you should've mentioned is that, when working with ANY distributor ignition, a quality timing light is worth its weight in gold. Maybe you could do a video on how to properly use a timing light, just to show those viewers that haven't used one. I LOVE the Actron digital light that I bought a few years ago. It took me a while to figure out all the features but it was well worth the time. On the other hand, I also still use my tach/dwell meter a lot too lol!
Been a long time since I've seen those log exhaust manifolds. Also keeping the compression ratio down lessens valve seat recession too.
This is cool stuff, any A-hole can go buy MSD but here tony is showing us all how to modify stock parts for performance. I’ve learned so much about older stuff watching this channel and a few others
Wealth of information, as usual. Thanks for sharing.
Your videos come across my feed as a recommendation and must say after watching a handful I can listen to you all day long! I like how you explain, you get to the point and know your stuff. Heck, I've already learned so much just in this vid alone.
I just hit that Subscribe Button, Thanks Tony and keep those vids coming! Cheers & God Bless.
Masterful explanation of timing effects. Thank you!
I do the same thing Tony, inspect each part, nut and bolt individually while cleaning them and list down replacements needed if any require it. It might be time consuming up front but all comes together to save in assembly time.
Tony is a real world mopar equivelant to the zen and art of motorcycle repair guy
I'm telling you Tony you're the real deal when it comes to turning with points and carb set up. If you ever want to show these people how much you know about the gen 3 hemi I have one I'm going to build if you want me to bring it to your shop with the parts & cash to do another build series?
This is great information ,I have been been mucking around with my 440. I will try this thanks Uncle Tony..
I had a friend with a Nissan 4 banger from the late 80's early 90's (I may be wrong on that, it may have been a bit earlier.) It was a small 5 speed manual car (I forget the model, but not a sports car.). Stock, it was a slug and would just do for getting you to the grocery store and back, but with the timing advanced and a good set of plugs and wires he ran with a lot of vehicles with twice the displacement and embarrassed a lot of people. Timing is a HUGE deal when it comes to both peak power and when the power comes in. His being a FWD, he didn't need a lot of power or he would break traction until around 4k RPM, but after that, the little thing was a ripper.
You're applying in an analogue way all the logic that modern ecu,s and tuning solutions use.
Yep. Computers are there because the average car owner doesn't maintain his car. Everybody wants plug and play.
Wealth of knowledge!
I'm a driveway mechanic for my own cars and some of my close friends cars, but i never built a motor before. Because of UT & Vise Grip I'm actively looking to replace my "spare car" Mazda with a mid 70's amc Jeep.
Good video alot people don't or didn't know about tuning distributor by changing the springs and weighs good information 👍
Timing is everything!! True statement.
Like you, I do things the way I do because of a reason. Everything. Being aware is number one in all of life.
I've been swamped and haven't watched this whole series, but man, that engine sure is looking good mang! 🚬🚬🚬
I have learned to wrench the old school way cleaning bolts, pushrods,etc with the wire wheel on the bench grinder it gets parts really clean and then clean it with solven,gas or diesel even simple green love your videos
I power tuned my AMC 360. Made the distributor by cutting off the Chevy one and welded it to the AMC base. When I did the weights, I went with the medium springs and soldered so much lead on the weights to get the curve I wanted that I had to shave off the plastic ribbing on the inside of the rotor so the rotor would fit. I would almost lift the front end off the ground on a launch. When I would just rev it, it would twist the body on the tires and rock the whole Jeep Wagoneer I put it in. A 4250 lb. SUV, LOL.
Love your analogy about the wire wheel because I agree, only way to do it right for most parts...
Thank you sir. Your knowledge is commendable.
Uncle Tony , you have sooo much knowledge to offer.. PLEASE STOP SMOKING, I hear you breathing gasping for air sometimes,
I do the same thing when cleaning my parts, the stories these parts tell is the history of the cars they were in and the life they lived.
I've had bad distributer bearings change my point gap at different rpm and drive me nuts trying to figure it out. First thing I check now.
Ya old timers know hook up dwell meter check dwell at idle accelerate look for more than 4 deg dwell change bad point late or worn distances bushings
Usually what causes this is worn lobes on the distributor shaft. Not saying the bush/bearing whatever isn't worn but yeah the lobes flog out and any slop in the shaft is made 10x worse because the lobes are rubbed down. This is especially true if vac advance is connected. As the vac comes on during cruise the breaker plate pulls the points away from the lobes and the motor stops or misfires.
I had this on a stock 383 dist.
Ah, good to know, I hadn't thought of that!
I was 600 miles from home it wouldn't run above or below fifty miles an hour I drove all the way home at fifty. It was a long ride in a Datsun pick up bet I made it. I traded it for a 1975 Grandville convertible with a 455.
I can’t wait to see the videos on going through the a/c that’s been “open” for a long time.
I have that exact situation.
Learning lots here. Interesting with the high velocity intake manifold and lean-ish mixture you are also using wide plug gaps.
Lean burn wants a big gap.
Thanks for your explanation of performance ignition total timing. I wish I had watched your videos a few years ago. Everything you explained is absolutely spot on! Could you do a video on timing vs. altitude? I am at 6,000 feet and have a VW aircooled engine. Ignition timing has a huge effect on power output, too much or too little makes for less power. I really like how you explained to rotate the mechanical advance to see the total timing. I started doing that 2 months ago. Should have been doing it years ago! Thanks!
Very interesting. I am trying to get a Datsun 140 to run as a daily drive.
Took the manual and set timing to 10 degrees BTDC. Terrible idle with loads of backfiring through the carb.
So redoing the timing again on the engine before setting up the carb again.
I did the same thing with my 351W. I modified my mechanical advance to only give 10 degrees. My initial timing is set at 25 degrees for a total of 35 with a set of light springs.🤘
You are so Awesome ! Thank you for all your knowledge and talent
Mr. Gasket #923 spring kit. Cheap and it brings a standard auto distributor all in by 1100rpm. Perfect for mild builds. MoPar specific of course, they made them for everything back in the day. You'll have to check to see what's available for the other makes.
Love it , I want to know your technique on degreeing the cam . Uncle Kathy is going to bug you about 😉
Thats an oldschool mopar trick!!! Weld the slots, and 2 green light springs!! Snappy street car recipe!!
Your so right tony lower compression = a faster full in on advance and it makes a giant difference
Timing has always been my struggle but this is prolly the first time I’ve heard it explained to the point where I think I understand completely….
Wow tons of interesting info to absorb. The compression on my 498 BBC is 9.75 to 1. Cannot wait to try a 20-degree initial with 38-degree total. During engine dyno 38-degrees made the most WOT power. I am still using stock GM dizzy with vacuum advance. Hopefully the engine won’t ping with such an aggressive timing curve. If it does will back off a bit. Thx
Exactly UTG, when you clean each individual piece, you find a potential disaster you would miss otherwise!
Yeah you know. I like your videos. Old school is the best always
I've done my share of playing with the weights and springs on GM Distributors learned a lot by doing it too
The engine is looking great , luv the color.
Pure gold again Uncle Tony
Had the same throttle linkage being too short problem with my '70 LeMans (my first car) when I converted it to a four barrel. Made brackets from my old Mechano set, and it worked fine!
I used to use the old wire clothes hangers to extend my linkage...soft enough to custom bend with some needle nose pliers and strong enough not to fail on the road.
Now I have to adjust the timing on my jeep with a amc401 great info 🇺🇸
With the 904 and 727 Torqueflites, the line pressure spring can be adjusted to the high, "shift kit" length setting and that is the maximum line pressure the transmission is designed to run at when the throttle is wide open with a, "normal" line pressure spring setting, but the transmission line pressure runs at that pressure full time and then the throttle pressure linkage is not required to be attached. If the normal line pressure is used without the throttle pressure linkage connected, the the transmission can slip, wear and become damaged. Tightening the line pressure spring eliminates the need for the throttle pressure linkage and the transmission will live a long life with firmer shifts at part throttle. Still don't tighten the spring too much. There are recommended shift kit length adjustments for it and the shift kit isn't needed. In the Mopar distributor, there are two springs on the advance weights, a long light spring and a stiff, heavy spring. The long, light spring allows quick advance, while heavy spring limits the full advance, until very high RPM. For quicker, full advance, the heavy spring can be removed, or both springs can be replaced with a Mopar Performance advance spring kit that has two short, light springs. With the full advance in so early, the vacuum advance would add too much advance at part throttle as the vacuum can is tuned for the restricted weight advance. Leave the vacuum advance conected in the distributor, but don't hook up the vacuum to it. Total timing can be set at mid range RPM and the initial advance should be good for starting and idling. Quicker and / or more advance will require richer jetting in the carb(s).
Wow info just clicked in my head, thank you for your information share.
Good video uncle Tony
I could remember guys in the early days mapping the distributor on the bench and changing the springs cleaning them up greasing connections....
I don’t know how they did it but there was some sort of a bench set up to “map distributors”
I wouldn’t mind seeing how that works if you happen to know how
Check out Tall John’s Fun Shop, he does a demonstration.