Old School Tune-Up Mastery For Beginners: Setting Up Points The Easy Way
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- The common misconception most newcomers have concerning point ignition systems is that they are difficult to service and tune. Here's the reality of how simple and quick the proceedure is. As a bonus, we show how to set Ford, Chrysler and AMC distributors with a Dwell Meter, just as you would on a General Motors product.
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#UTG #points #dwellmeter #mopar #ford #amc
Sure wish some rich auto enthusiasts would fire up some old manufacturing plants in the USA again and make some decent parts for old cars. Suppose it doesn’t fit the the planned obsolescence agenda though.
I've changed 100's of sets of points - no exaggeration - why am I watching this? UT is just entertaining.
Seconding the comment for the drop light. And even a small light on the cam would help a ton for vids like this. But I was still able to get the point of what you are teaching. See what I did there?
If you are working on a slant six in an early a body you can't see anything light or not lol. Back in the day I just pulled the distributor and stuck it in a vice. Then either use a feeler gauge or spin it with a drill motor and set dwell.
I didn't see what you did there. You'll have to condense your comment for clarity or dwell longer on your explanation.
@@rcnelson i'm not sure i have the capacitance to see what you've condensed in your statement
@@richardcranium5839 ok, but some of us still have have points. You known, Echlin, Bosch, standard high grade, blue streak, Delco Remy, accell, Mallory. Nylon rubbing blocks are evil. And sand is the mortal enemy of breaker points.
I do. Nice😁
Thanks for showing us the finer Points of the ignition system. You have filled a Gap in my knowledge, but I won't Dwell on my ignorance.
Salute to the Captain for the quad pun in a single sentence award!
You must have had quite the spark of imagination to come up with that electrifying comment lol
@@JimsRustyOldNuts I wanted to Crank that out Before The Dumb Commenters could Fire off a Retarded reply because their Timing is Missing the Mark.
@@captainjohnh9405 🤣🤣🤣
@@captainjohnh9405 */w\UnWHOLY-METAL/w\*
UT: Please consider hanging a drop light in your engine bay for better visuals in some of your videos.. Thanks..
Its rough to see what you're doing at times. I think it might help stabilize the focus some on your camera as well.
This is an analog points vid.
@@bobroberts2371 lol
a drop light :L.E.D. or flourescent would be great for filming an engine bay...tbs
@@bobroberts2371
Then out in the sun at least
If you dont have a dwell meter, tape a protractor to the top of the rotor, and fashion a pointer from something solid. Hook a test light across the points. Turning the engine over by hand, take note of how many degrees the light is on, that is your dwell.
Back in the 60s I always carried a set of points in the clove box. I remember setting the gap with the flap off my cigarette pack.
I drive an air cooled VW beetle. I keep a set of points and a fuel pump.😀
@@strokermaverick
I used to do the same.
Then I went diesel and realized there was something with more torque, and hp.
That got twice the mpg.
That had heat.
And could actually last for 100k.
And needed no tune ups.
@@Jupitermustangmike He's just showing you another way
@@fastinradfordable I’ve had VW diesels also. I just love air cooled.👍 As far as, heat is concerned, I know how to maintain the air cooled heating system. The hottest heat, I’ve ever had in a vehicle, is from an air cooled VW.🙂
@@strokermaverick Match book cover was perfect for .019 gap on old Beetles!
Back in the 80s here in the UK, there was a common knowledge rule of thumb for setting points and plug gaps, for the diy man with no tech manual, 15 thou for points, 25 to 30 thou for plugs, they ran.
I miss the good old set of points that would come with a oil sponge or sweep that would help keep the lube on the dist cam for every rotation. But that is the number one reason for points to fail because people don’t lube their distributors. Don’t mean you Tony I understand the getting flustered when trying to show others and forgetting a step or ten. Awesome 😎 job Tony keep points alive. 👍
thanks for doing this video for the young guns! cars were running 8's back in the day with points!
Love it ! Stay tuned for part 2.....Dual Points. LOL. The test pattern at the end is great !! Cheers !!!
"So we've already established that I am a porn star" ......... this is what I heard when I clicked this video, I had to rewind that!
Lol everybody had a former life i guess.
@@spacecat7247 Unfortunately, for some of us it was too short.
He's a "Poin Star"
Hey Tony, I would like to give you a bit of feedback about your videos. First, I enjoy watching them, however, please try to never assume that your audience is fully knowledgable about the things that you were doing.
For example, in this video, you talk about the points block and the rubbing board, but you quickly brought the points past the camera and put them on the bench without showing an example.
Take your time to let the camera focus on these parts that you were replacing, and perhaps some better lighting, would also improve your videos.
Thank you for taking the time to do these videos, and hopefully they progress better each and every time you do them.
I learn something new every time I watch your channel. Much appreciated Tony 🕺
Never thought of using Dwell Meter BEFORE ignition points where set and gaped. THANKS for your video it opened my eyes....
My TAFE teacher used to tell us that feeler gauges - like a torque wrench - only give us an approximation. Measuring bolt clamping force.bolt stretch and dwell gets us closer to what we're actually trying to set.
Now if only ya had a Big block sitting around, it might have made it easier. I'd always set the gap with the feeler gage and left it at that. I've never seen the dwell done like that, love it! Now I just need to find some old muscle car!
I've owned a sears dwell meter for 20 years now I know how to use it! Thanks Uncle Tony your the best!
The big problem with points/condenser is sourcing good quality replacements.
Unfortunately points are far from the only parts with dicey quality control.
Of course I know how to do that I made your dwell meter at Actron. 😃👌
First video I have watched after I’m back to RUclips. Been on a Netflix trip. Love the new shop. Love the great videos. Thank you to uncle Kathy too. Great close ups.
thanks for explaining what the dwell meter does.
Do you folks in the comments section think a magnetic screwdriver is a good idea to help prevent dropped screws?
I remember the old points used to come with that little capsule of Grease and they had this little piece of fiber material that went on the rubbing block and you were supposed to put the grease behind that so every time they snap shut it would give a little bit of lubricant
wow I didn't think anybody still had a meter left but me. good man God bless my friend
Love your videos UT, Also a dwell meter can tell if you have worn distributor bearings, my life of cars and bikes was the same as yours, I get a good feeling watching old adam12 and dragnet or anything from the 70`s that shows the streets scenes , i watch the cars along the streets, reminds me of the normal environment I grew up in, seems like heaven now.
That does it! I'm getting ride of all those extra wires and going back to points. It'll give me something to tinker with and use my old dwell meter and push button starter.
That’s a couple great tips, thanks. I’m a (dual) points kinda guy myself, and the argument that an electronic ignition is mandatory for reliability just makes me bristle.
My first car was a 71 Demon, I kept a set of points and a ballast resistor in the glove box, I used the matchbook until I got home to use a feeler gauge to fine tune it
When the video started, UT rocking in a rocking chair really put some perspective on the video. Lol 😆. At any rate, loved this video showing the “How To” of replacing ignition points. 👍
Here's another video he did on points, ruclips.net/video/dZWX2iYbbNw/видео.html
Who used to work as a tow truck driver at a service station. He had a fairly good towing business and he also did tune-ups and repairs on automobiles. Every time he had a Chrysler product in there to do a tune-up he would have me do the tune-up. I had done so many of them on Chrysler products I could tell by looking at the point where they were 17018 thousands of 19,000. And that's with ended well range, and usually you would use the differential on a set of points that somebody just needed to have cleaned up real quick so that they could still use them for a while so you would run some 500 grit sandpaper on it and reset it to about 17, will you put a new set. And run at about 19,000 you get a little bit more dwell time a little bit hotter spark. The pain in the ass came when you had to face a distributor because it was so jumpy when you check the timing you couldn't get any kind of decent fuel mileage out of it. So you grab the distributor with the hole in the side of it so you can adjust the phasing until the jumpy timing tightens up and that's where you leave it.
Teflon lubricant was a godsend for the rubbing block because it will not wear once you load the cam with Teflon Lube period or spray some wet Teflon Lube on that felt pad it rubs on the cam.
You are correct on those Accel points however. I once did a tuneup on a 1965 Chrysler Imperial with Accel points and wires and a carburetor rebuild. I did the upgrade to the car at 177000 miles. I talked that same lady oh, several years later, because I was traveling around in the Air Force. I asked her how her car was doing. She said it still starts and runs before she can take her hand off the key. I asked her how many miles it had on it she said 350,000 miles no. She had done nothing to the car as far as the ignition and the carburetor for 173,000 miles.
You are correct; it is not the Manhattan project. But with any version of electronic ignition you don’t need to do this at all. Yes, you will need to replace parts on all systems, but the frequency is different.
I had a neighbor who told me that he used to commute 200 miles to work and back every day. Ford Bronco. He would stop halfway and clean the points, both ways. Thanks for the advice, I'm sure I'll use it. But if it's my car, I'll take electronic ignition.
awesome video sir! I will be trying this on my 67 Cope Deville.
Great video! If the Chinese ever hit us with a EMP bomb you'll wish you still had your points ignition!! We'll be the ones still driving around while all the new cars will be junk! Just like Road Warrior!!😀
Vw idi diesel ftw,pull the injection pump shutoff plunger and pop start it down a hill.
The ignition coil is toast in an EMP wave
Love your analog dwell meter
Where were you 50 years ago? Like I said before. I spent countless hours starting my brother's Satellite. (I was the key guy) Setting the dwell was hit or miss with that style of points. That's why I preferred GM's spring loaded version that allowed you to adjust it while it was running.
BTW- I have dropped the screw before. Not on a car but in a boat with a Volvo-Penta. In the middle of the river. Talk about an oh-**** moment.
Love how you started off in grandpa's chair
Great video. I’ve only changed points on a 68 firebird and a 66 Imperial. You’ve proven to me that there’s no reason to upgrade from points
awesome video. Like that you showed how to use the dwell meter. I found one about a year ago at an antique store, didnt buy it because i had no idea how to use it.
there's a bunch on ebay. I'm sure they're less expensive than the antique store too.
Very cool UT. I do still like the ease of the electronic ignition system though. As long as she's got a good ground, you can pull 200k miles without a hiccup. Then if/when it does, its two 1/2 inch bolts, and one plug. I do understand the points system. I dont hate it, but it is a maintenance item I could deal without. Very cool vid and good job showing the newer generation how to make the old skool generation equipment function.
Excellent video -- thanks! I've dropped that hold-down screw so many times I just assume it's going to happen and have my little telescoping magnet thing at hand. Never used a dwell meter to set them before, but just bought one off the 'bay so I'll be trying it out come the weekend. Never too old. :-)
Wouldn't it just be easier to start with a magnetic screwdriver ?
@@Richie_the_Fixer Perhaps, but no guarantees with my shaky hands. :-)
Great teaching video on points..
In the mid nineties was attempting to restore a 69 442, I did not know shit, my neighbor showed me how to set points with a dwell meter, I'll be damned if I remember how to do it now!, but this rang my bell a little!
The GM distributors had a little "window" which could be opened and an Allen key of the right size was used to adjust the points with a dwell/tach meter. If you ball parked the gap right, the dwell could be dialed in with the engine running.
There was a lot less crap in an engine compartment in those days...
@@lordphullautosear
I have a 92 Dodge w250(4x4)
With a 360LA,
I was showing a friends 16 yr old son how to do a minor tune up, when I opened the hood he asked me "where's the rest of the engine?, all the plastic stuff?"
LOL, 🤣
@@lordphullautosear Yes that was the way, get it running then 28-30 on the dwell.
Literally received my dwell meter in the mail today.
Another quality lesson from Uncle Tony! It might be good for the super-noobs watching this to explain exactly what dwell is though
The period of time when the contact points are closed, thus allowing for the coil to build it's electromagnetic charge that will be collapsed and send the built up discharged high volt spark out to the cap and down the line to the appropriate cylinder when the points are opened.
@@THRASHMETALFUNRIFFS I always thought dwell was was when the contacts were open and when they are closed it is coil saturation. I guess they are the same thing when closed.
@@davidleonard8369 Yes, the coil is "saturating" during the time the points are closed, which is in fact the dwell time or "wait" time. THe points only bump open for a split second!
@@davidleonard8369 I guess the "open" time would be called something like: The Moment of Ultimate Discharge?
@@THRASHMETALFUNRIFFS don't know about that. But when they just break contact is certainly when the coil discharges. Great for setting static ignition timing.
uncle tony, I know you dont like pertronix, I have had good luck. Electronic ignition without changing the distributor. 68 Ford truck with 390 engine. good video
You make me miss the 70’s.
Remember tuning up my fathers 1967 Mercury Montego for him every time he took a week end jont to the Blue Ridge Area. I used a Sears Craftsman Engine analizer . I think it was a 302 can’t remember. Hen too I tuned his carborater with it along with the vacuum gauge. 21 mpg .is what he told me in 1974
Its important to know, that, a low dwell is a big pointer gap, and a high dwell is a small gap. If the dwell is 5 off the ignition timing can change 1 degree. Because of build up on the points, and camwear in the distrubutor, the dwell will allways change while drivning. And thats the benefit of electronic ign, and will gain performance over time. Points are bounsing all over the place at high rev, and an old distrubutor.
Uncel Tony like how you routed your spark plug wire neat and nice.👍👍
Uncle Tony: Iv been using this accel lube since a teenager.
Accel Lube: I sure do look like it!
LOL. Another great video uncle Tony. Keeping classic American muscle great!
What happens when Echlin gets bought out and the only points left are chinesium short timers just like the condensers already are? The HEI is still common enough to source quality American parts for it from most parts stores these days.
I love how you don't edit out that last 2-4 seconds after Tony says I'll see you tomorrow.
His facial expression is priceless
Used to pull the distributor on our 67 Satellite 318 to set the points then reinstall the distributor.
Ah the Dwell meter. My first memory of tuning was on a 72 Caprice with the Multi tool tune up box for Western Auto.
Watch you,because i respect you.Been working cars since i was 7 yrs old.Got my legal papers in 1984,when cars and trucks were still carbed.HEI--Points in some of the older cars i worked on.Chrysler dual points were a little trickie.They were the days.If i could go only go back 40-50 yrs,when they actually made cars.Mechanics like you and me are in a little glass case,that says---BREAK IN CASE OF EMERGENCY.
One little trick or step Uncle Tony missed and that is drag a strip of “bond” paper or a clean pocket flap of a cotton shit between the contacts to remove any oil or other smutzs that are on them and more times than not there always is and the light coating of oil is intentionally to keep them from corroding in the box. Myself I dip a one strip of bond paper in (cotton paper) in ether or acetone (and not the stuff people use to remove fingernail polish but the unadulterated stuff) and drag them through the contacts and then a clean dry piece. That said I use a screw starter when installing new points because I have paws not hands and when I remove the screw I have a magnet ready and waiting after all the idea is to work smarter not harder and use a bumper-button to crank the engine when setting the dwell. Lastly don’t forget to put a drop or two of oil on the felt pad in the distributor shaft and on the distributor weights and I do mean only a drop or maybe two no more. Have a nice day and a better tomorrow.
I have acquired a few old single and dual points Mallory distributors and just to throw people off, I think I'll run one in my '76 Chevy big block truck! Thanks for the tips. I didn't know how to use my old diagnostic tester until your show. I hope you realize how valuable the information is you're giving us!
Back in the day. I stopped by the parts store to pickup points. Engine waS running fine. When I got back to the car the engine won't fire. Changed the points right there using a matchbook cover as a feeler gage.
Checked the dwell when I got home.
Perfect 50' dwell.
10/10 great video, straight to the point(s)
I first started doing this in 1971, never used a dwell meter. I guess an old dog can learn new tricks, thanks Uncle Tony!
Another great vid. Pro tip for Uncle Cathy.....refer to AvE videos on how to coerce the camera into focusing.👍
"Focus you Faaaaack!"
This is an analog vid.
I'd gamble on an echlin condenser , it's gotta be better then the box store.
They already show that the points set is better quality.
Tony needs to do a collab with Mark Worman from Graveyard cARZ ! I reckon their thinly veiled insults could bounce off each other perfectly!
From a full MSD ignition guy in my muscle car but a guy that installs tons of point sets in antique tractors all the time this is a great video. Thanks for all you do.
Get over it people so uncle Tony like simplicity he like points and carburators because there esear to work on and diagnosis and fix not that he can't work on the newer cars he just like the simplicity and thing work and have been proven to work again and again. I agree with him and when I get an old car that I am saving for in a year or so it will have points and carborator. But everyone has their option and likes different things. If we all liked the same things life would really suck.
Thanks Tony! I have a 55 chev 6 cylinder and pulled the distributor EVERY time - always risking not getting the dist blade back into the oil pump every time - because - I never knew I could just use the ole dwell meter! What a time saver!
Most of the time you can install ignition points in distributors in the car but there are applications where the distributor should be removed for better access to the points.
Cheers for that Uncle Tony :-)
A friend said to watch your videos because they would remove my fear of setting the dwell on points, and he was right, you present it in a very easy to understand and straightforward manner, thank you!!
Now I have to go find your video on setting the timing, he says I have to use a timing light to set the timing after points installation. I'm not a mechanic, obviously, but I do work on my own cars, and I need to learn how to do this right. Thanks again!
Point dwell affects timing but timing does not affect point dwell. So when you refresh your point dwell to specs it is wise to check your timing. Always remember this (1) set point dwell (2) check and adjust ignition timing with your timing light. Yes it would be wise to view the ignition timing video.
You almost had me sold on points!!
It was all done, you put the cap back on...THEN removed it!!!! The lube was one step too far and to complex for me 😃
**my 1st set of points was on a 67 Polara 383 when I was 13,Dad said learn this kid don't be a idiot all your life..Yes sir,my Dads teaching moments were and still are the best all his 84 years of it!! Plus he still owns a mean 70 'Cuda 440 so,yeah I am sticking with him until the end..(what nothing wrong with that)!
Hes gonna donate car to charity.
@@CharlieBrown-pb9xn ..lol,he might!
Do people really think changing and setting points is hard or time consuming? Y'all prolly call AAA when you get a flat too!!! For folks just getting into this stuff, it's easy and far more reliable, just like this video shows.
Good content mate ...thanks
Great Video, Got a 1980 Toyota Land Cruiser that needs some Distributor love. I'm guessing my Factory service Manuel will tell me the degrees i need to be.
Right on UT
I have points on my factory 65 dart with slant6 . yes its easy to tune/ change them out but the problem is the points are now made over seas and made very cheap. its hard to find fair or good quality points unless you go to a estate auction ect and find out the guy collected mopar ignition stuff or a guy bought out and stashed NOS points parts. the other problem is all the parts stores are selling china / Mexico cheap ass 25.00 distributors including points distributors and the bushings can wear out and cause the cam lobes on the distributor shaft to not stay in center and cause the points to some times open up and other times not went through of a couple Alcordone brand distributors before I found Joe's distributor repair on Facebook. he rebuilds them to stock specs or modifies them to fit your modified engine and uses NOS parts or new made in a america parts
That is the way I have always done it. But, at 65 yrs old, I am used to the "OLD WAY" of doing things. Great Video for the younger folks who want to learn.
STAY REAL!
My father taught me how to do that on a ‘64 Chevy biscaynne station wagon
Look, I carry an extra Ign Module in All 3 of my HEI cars and have never had to change it. Now, the Accel brand has failed me twice.
At least for lack of maintenance AC Delco HEI, in my experience, is the absolute best.
I also have some of those old craftsman ignition wrenches tony. also used the dwell meter religiously when doing tuneup's on my pontiacs and it worked well! thanks for the video!
Does Pontiac have the same window and hex key adjuster while it's running, I guess so, it's GM?
@@THRASHMETALFUNRIFFS yes it does! when I saw tony adjusting while it was off, I was confused.
@@kurtzimmerman1637 Aha, right! So you just hook to the coil and ground and fire it up and adjust the nut in real time through the window, EZPZ!
@@THRASHMETALFUNRIFFS it worked quite well using that strategy. never had problems using that method.
I've had a full set of them wrenches sine I got my first set of tools when I was 12, I never knew that they were call ignition wrenches. So then I have been using them for the wrong things almost 40 years.😲🤣🤣🤣
Old school...remember the dwell effects the timing but the timing doesn't effect the dwell. Cheers!
Explain. If changing the dwell changes the point gap and thus the timing, why doesn't it work in reverse?
@@rcnelson The dwell effects the timing by a small amount because the points opened a little sooner or later based on their gap "dwell". Moving the timing doesn't effect the points gap "dwell". Thanks Uncle Tony for old school lesson.
I was on the electronic ignition bandwagon for a long time I was at the local cycle shop buying parts to bring my '72 Honda cb 750k back to life and I wanted a electronic ignition for it and the guy at the counter was ADAMANT that I didn't need one he said "points are good and simple when electronic goes out it's a pain to figure out" I'm glad I listened to him! Tony just reinforces the point!
The only caution would be that most British bikes had Lucas advance units. The points gave good service but the advance unit would get notches in the weight slots and severe wear on the pins. When worn enough the weights would hang on the pins holding the ignition a full advance. This made the engine difficult to start when cold.
At this point an electronic ignition conversion wasn't much more money than a new advance unit. That's the reason it's unusual to see a Norton for instance still running points.
Ah! Lucas! "The prince of darkness"!
You forgot to mention changing the dwell also changes ignition timing. Should always check it after replacing the points.
Hey Tony, I thought you were going to show us how to change points blindfolded. maybe next time....
Thanks Tony, I'm changing the points in my 70 vette right now. I have a dwell meter because I was actually a mechanic at a Chevy dealership back in the 70's right out of high school, working on nothing but muscle cars, it was a dream job. I never knew about this trick buy hey you learn something new every day! I'm going to have to go buy a timing light because for some reason mine is gone? Oh well no problem, thank's again for teaching this old dog some new tricks!
That was awesome. I was wondering if you gonna lube the cam lobe on the dist. for the points block to roll on. but you remembered. Thanks for the tutorial on the dwell meter. Been to long since i used one. And of course , since i work on jet aircraft i will never use one on there.
ROLL UP YOUR CIGARETTE!!! LOL GREAT CAMERA WORK ULTRA KATHY!!👍👍
WOW, that looked so difficult to change them points.😉😉😂😂😂
Some people just don't care to take the time to tinker on their vehicles. I've had people think they needed a complete tune up (plugs, rotor button, cap, etc.) and all it needed was the points to be cleaned & adjusted or just a fresh set. 5 minutes and they were back on the road for a few dollars, well they're about $10 now.
I'd rather change points than sit inside and watch the TV or something like that. Not that I own a TV, but I do like being in the shop. That kind of stuff is just kinda fun!
I've tuned tons of points cars using the dwell meter. I was always taught that the feeler gap was just as a starting reference so you can get the engine to run for a proper dwell check. And why is that important? It's because the dwell determines how long the coil charges- the longer the charge time, the hotter the spark. A properly balanced dwell will minimize plug fouling and improves cold start, and that all adds up to improved fuel economy and maximum power.
But I've only been working on these cars for 40 years, so what do I know anyway...
I do the same thing and I leave the dwell tach connected till I idle the engine.. just my way of double checking.. I need to see the dwell while it's idling smoothly..
I always remove the distributor when doing the points so much easier . Chrysler products have a tab on the dist. shaft so it goes back in place just note where the rotor position is before removing the dist. Sixes have a gear so you have to be careful not to get the teeth meshed out of place.
I read about Smokey Yunick putting eight points under a distributor cap. It didn't look like it would be fun to set them.
Thanks man! Was going to do two steps first with feeler gauge, then meter after car got started.... right to meter on a non-starting engine. Now dwell is off the list... and I can address no fuel issue individually.
Just seen the Dulcich and Friedburger vid on piston reversing. If UTG had these guys budget, the mustard seed would move mountains. I do respect where these boys came from, but most guys in this game are not endowed enough to have mega hp builds between the rails so any gains however small are most welcome. Check book racers were never my thing. So any knowledge that can get me across the line quicker is always welcome, not bills for overpriced labor and parts that we have to endure these days which is why I do most stuff myself. Comprende?
I am ok with points,BUT here are to "points" I will make against using them.
#1 I would never use them for a high RPM race engine these days. You will never have the accuracy of a modern ignition system. (I have talked with guys from back in the days of what they had to do to even get those points to work in an 8 to 10,000 RPM engine and it is just not worth it. A wear item that had to be monitored and changed regularly.) Do you really want to loose a race just because your points let you down????
#2 Finding a quality set of points with good contacts is a rare thing anymore. Most have cheap plating on the contacts that is gone in a short matter of time . Even if you do pay up and get a set that is decent, again,the pad(rubbing block) that rides on the lobes WILL wear down and the dwell is changing slightly every time you even fire it up.
So much easier on BB's and Fords with the dizzy up front :)
Now go to eBay and start buying up points with the same vintage as that condensor ...
Points had their place but I'm sticking with HEI. Don't forget the magnetic screwdriver. If you've never dropped a screw in the distributor you haven't set points my friend. Pull it get the screw out and grab the match book (if you can still find one) and put her back in. Set it and go get it.
You need to fine old BBQ stands and bolt on a piece of 2x4 foot plywood for a roll around work table.
Hi Uncle nice vid. Maybe use a flashlight for those thigt spots? I want to see everything :P
Or those lamps that you can hang onder the hood.
Napa Echlin points are...okay.....sort of. You want some kickass points that last damn near forever? Get your hands on Accel point sets. I swear by them. Been running them in my 69 F100 for the past 20 years. I've NEVER had to adjust them (checked often, always on 30*) and only been through 2 sets......in 20 years. Only reason i changed the one set is I had changed engines and figured, why not? probably could have ran the 1st set longer. Truck was my daily for at least the 1st 10 years, family got bigger so it became the 'hauler' or backup rig. I can go out side right now, hit the key and it will fire off on 1-3 cranks. Accel points are extremely impressive.
Always tried for borg warner points dont know now if can get them.
@@bdi11000 hard to say if they'd be as good as they might have been before, as everything has shifted overseas. Quality isn't what it once was. I can certainly vouch for the Accel points, IF you can get your hand on some.