Well done! I'm 72 and I've always did all my own work on my cars, motorcycles, trucks, etc. and I still do. As wonderfully reliable today's electronic ignitions are, I almost miss doing tune-ups. I found this video because one of my grandsons, who is a mechanical engineer working on his master's degree and who works for Honda asked me about points, condenser, coil ignitions work. You're description is perfect and very clearly presented. I still have the tools I used for my old ignition systems including a dwell tachometer, timing lights and even the special flexible points adjusting tool that was used with the old Delco distributor caps with the little window to access the points adjustment screw. One big thing that's changed with cars since since electronics took over is how crammed the engine compartment is. The engine compartment on my old '57 Chevy was so big and so empty that my wife (who was my girlfriend at the time) could actually climb in the engine compartment and I could close the hood! (Don't ask me how I know that because I can't remember why we did it.) Also, things were so simple. You opened the hood on a car back then and all you saw was an engine, a generator (before alternators replaced them) a battery and a radiator. there was tons of room to work and things were so simple and uncomplicated. That was even before PVC valves and EGRs were used. My father was born in 1909. His first car was a Model T. He would tell me about how you could re-build the engine in your garage in a few hours. He said that the biggest problem with Model Ts and similar cars back then was having to fix flats all the time. I thought about all the things he must have known that are all but forgotten now except by antique car collectors. Then I am reminded that that's how my grandson's must see me. Thanks again for your fine video.
I'm 72 also and have an old Commer truck and a Morris Minor so need some revision of things learned years ago. Thanks for the straight, clear presentation.
Thank you so much. Actually repairing a 1956 Ford tractor, and having to replace the points and condenser. Was a little lost on the contact breaker verbage on gap and function. This was perfect and now heading back outside to adjust them properly. Great video, well explained and appreciate the visual hands on. Keep them classics runnin!
Thank you for the instruction. Currently working on putting a vintage British dirt bike back in service: a 1971 Greeves 380 Griffon Scrambler. It has a Magnito Mechanical Breaker Point Ignition (Stefa, made in Sweden). Took it to the track the other day to test. Started twice, ran for 300 feet and died. Whet plug, no spark. Hence, my refreshing my Breaker Points knowledge. Thanks again for the refresher. BTW, when demonstrating spark, make sure you have a black background for the spark to show. Thanks.
Thank you. I'm working on a 1975 Caterham 7 with a Lotus 7 dual overhead cam wngine and I have never had to deal with points before. This was clear and valuable information ... and now I have spark again. Seems my points were so corroded (engine had not run in about 5 years) they were always open and no spark could develop. I used a 2-sided nail board (file) to clean everything up, and then gapped to 20 thou. All good now. Thank you again.
Thanks for the video. I was helping my dad with is 63 Comet today. The issue was the points would not open. He made the adjustment and the car started. I found this video while trying to learn more about what he did and why it wouldn’t start.
Every point based ignition system I know of has a resistor in the primary circuit. If you send 12 volts to the points they will burn and/or the condenser will fail. Most systems are designed around a 7 volt primary circuit.
Hi thanks for reminding us how simple point contacts are! I'm fed up with modern electronics when the lights every time they come on. then they charge you £40 to put their computer on before they even do anything else, I might look for my old Ford Granada Scorpio, thanks for the video
Great video. Thats exactly what I admire on this channel and why I follow. it. These DYI easy understandable mechanical advices for us, self-taughters.... Thanks a lot!
Thanks! Was headed down the road in my 63 C-10 when she died...didn't sputter, didn't putt, didn't cough...just stealth mode. Got towed home and replaced the coil with a spare I had...no joy. Tomorrow on to the points.
Hi Adam, nice video. My 67 Mustang distributor has a small piece of felt in the distributor shaft, and it's recommended to oil when you do maintenance. It helps to lubricate the bearing for the shaft of the distributor. I couldn't tell if your distributor has any felt in the center of it or not. As you said not all distributors are the same.
Well done Adam good to see knowledge and skills being shared, just a little about the condenser, when the points open and the magnetic field in the primary side of the coil collapses it induces a high voltage in the secondary side as you said but it also generates a back emf of around 500 volts in the primary the purpose of the condenser is to absorb and dissipate it, if it fails that's when you get excessive sparking and burning at the points a telltale sign is a white powdery deposit that creates a bad contact and misfiring, you make me feel old when I was a lad this was state of the art lol.
@@daphnejames3571 It is sometimes good practice to use a protection diode on inductive loads such as across the pos and neg of the coil in this case the points are switching the coils negative so you can't use one in place of the condenser it probably wouldn't handle the voltage spike anyway being a semiconductor it can only go open circuit if it fails best stick with the condenser if you're having problems getting one the right physical size you can put them on the outside of the distributor.
Adam I was testing my points today by opening /closing them using a screwdriver to test if they spark.. The surfaces are good and a new coil fitted. They were only sparking SLIGHTLY and not every time they were opened. I was testing to seeing if the condensor may be faulty (orange spark instead of usual blue colour) Do I suspect the condensor as a result of this ? It would be good if you might make a video of a good condenser in operation against a failed one.... Thank you Ian
Try taking the HT wire from the centre of the distributor and set it about a quarter inch from the block and there should be a big blue spark as the points open with ignition on. The spark on the points is less to see.
I bloody hate electrical things, but when it’s explained to you in the correct manner , it’s piss easy . But you often forget if you only do something once a year or so ...
Please can you advise where the brown braided wire goes…. Mine broke off and I can’t see where it went…. I was thinking it went with the orange wire under the nut.. but when you removed that orange wire there was no brown wire….. I have been on jag forums and spent a week asking this question and nobody has been able to answer the question. Please help
I need some help, I have a world war II generator that was running before I restored it and painted it. I made sure all my ground points are grounded down to pure metal getting good ground on my positive areas too. I got it wired correctly I have the wire diagram in the distributor is not getting sparked the spark plug cylinder holes I thought that might be a problem so I sanded it down and made a good ground point for the spark plugs still no spark. It's a 4-cylinder Hercules engine. My coil is good much distributor is good my condenser is good everything is good just no spark I'm missing a wire somewhere. I have one wire negative from my distributor to my coil negative to negative. From the coil positive to positive to the ignition switch. Just curious if you have any thoughts of where wire might be missing
Its the paper ( paper about the thickness as a matchbox) is fragile and good for cleaning and adjusting contact points. Its an old mechanics trick if you dont have feeler gauges at hand.
I assume it is to advance or retard the ignition timing never seen that before normally (on german cars) you turn the distrubutor clockwise or anticlockwise to adjust ignition timing in accordance with mfg specification e.g. 6 degrees after TDC.
@@kaspersvendsen8510 yes you're correct it's for fine tuning, in the bad old days when we had 2star and 4star leaded petrol with a different octane rating you could tweak it to suit, advance as much as you could but if it started pinking ( pre-ignition ) you could retard it slightly, now we have 95 octane as standard we don't have to, however some modern cars have knock sensors and do it automatically and these can benefit from 100 octane, if you don't have them then no benefit don't bother save your money.
Great video, thanks and really enjoying your S Type series as I am going through something similar with a 1966 S Type, 3.8. Is your S Type a positive earth or negative earth?
Can a coil be damaged, yet not completely burnt out? I ask because I am having a weird problem where my old chevy truck won’t idle (though higher rpms work fine), and somebody suggested it could be a bad coil. Just about all else is new, and there are no air leaks anywhere (brand new carb).
I like the idea of electronic ignition to replace the contact points, but have heard of a lot of these cheap systems failing, so I tend to stick with using points... Question. Would excessive side play in the distributor shaft cause erratic idle, would you think ? Thanks
use the simple test to check your condenser with screwdriver inserted plug wire held close to eng at idle how far will spark jump1/4 in or less bad 3/4 in perfect this what pitts points less voltage show rest will jump open points pitting them
Well done! I'm 72 and I've always did all my own work on my cars, motorcycles, trucks, etc. and I still do. As wonderfully reliable today's electronic ignitions are, I almost miss doing tune-ups. I found this video because one of my grandsons, who is a mechanical engineer working on his master's degree and who works for Honda asked me about points, condenser, coil ignitions work. You're description is perfect and very clearly presented. I still have the tools I used for my old ignition systems including a dwell tachometer, timing lights and even the special flexible points adjusting tool that was used with the old Delco distributor caps with the little window to access the points adjustment screw. One big thing that's changed with cars since since electronics took over is how crammed the engine compartment is. The engine compartment on my old '57 Chevy was so big and so empty that my wife (who was my girlfriend at the time) could actually climb in the engine compartment and I could close the hood! (Don't ask me how I know that because I can't remember why we did it.) Also, things were so simple. You opened the hood on a car back then and all you saw was an engine, a generator (before alternators replaced them) a battery and a radiator. there was tons of room to work and things were so simple and uncomplicated. That was even before PVC valves and EGRs were used. My father was born in 1909. His first car was a Model T. He would tell me about how you could re-build the engine in your garage in a few hours. He said that the biggest problem with Model Ts and similar cars back then was having to fix flats all the time. I thought about all the things he must have known that are all but forgotten now except by antique car collectors. Then I am reminded that that's how my grandson's must see me.
Thanks again for your fine video.
wholesome stuff right here
I like working backwards in life .... Meaning what it was like to be in your shoes I'm 31..... good chat
I'm 72 also and have an old Commer truck and a Morris Minor so need some revision of things learned years ago. Thanks for the straight, clear presentation.
A+ video:
1. Easy clear comprehensive
explanation.
2. Excellent camera views.
My 12 year nephew watched the entire video. I tested him;he passed 100%!
Great video. Good explanations, good lighting and good audio. Thanks!
Thank you so much. Actually repairing a 1956 Ford tractor, and having to replace the points and condenser. Was a little lost on the contact breaker verbage on gap and function. This was perfect and now heading back outside to adjust them properly. Great video, well explained and appreciate the visual hands on. Keep them classics runnin!
Glad I could help!
Thank you for the instruction. Currently working on putting a vintage British dirt bike back in service: a 1971 Greeves 380 Griffon Scrambler. It has a Magnito Mechanical Breaker Point Ignition (Stefa, made in Sweden). Took it to the track the other day to test. Started twice, ran for 300 feet and died. Whet plug, no spark. Hence, my refreshing my Breaker Points knowledge. Thanks again for the refresher. BTW, when demonstrating spark, make sure you have a black background for the spark to show. Thanks.
I’m glad I could help
Great review of older conventional ignition systems. Keep up the good content!
Thank you. I'm working on a 1975 Caterham 7 with a Lotus 7 dual overhead cam wngine and I have never had to deal with points before. This was clear and valuable information ... and now I have spark again. Seems my points were so corroded (engine had not run in about 5 years) they were always open and no spark could develop. I used a 2-sided nail board (file) to clean everything up, and then gapped to 20 thou. All good now. Thank you again.
Dude you coverd all my questions and put it all is such easy way to understand. Sur thank you wish i watched this 30 videos ago
Thanks for the video. I was helping my dad with is 63 Comet today. The issue was the points would not open. He made the adjustment and the car started. I found this video while trying to learn more about what he did and why it wouldn’t start.
I’m glad I could help! Good luck with the car
Every point based ignition system I know of has a resistor in the primary circuit. If you send 12 volts to the points they will burn and/or the condenser will fail. Most systems are designed around a 7 volt primary circuit.
Hi thanks for reminding us how simple point contacts are! I'm fed up with modern electronics when the lights every time they come on. then they charge you £40 to put their computer on before they even do anything else, I might look for my old Ford Granada Scorpio, thanks for the video
Awesome video I just bought a 76 Datsun 620 am figuring out the ignition system. Thanks.
Great video. Thats exactly what I admire on this channel and why I follow. it. These DYI easy understandable mechanical advices for us, self-taughters.... Thanks a lot!
I'm really glad you liked the video!
Thank you for the video you are a great teacher
Thanks! Was headed down the road in my 63 C-10 when she died...didn't sputter, didn't putt, didn't cough...just stealth mode. Got towed home and replaced the coil with a spare I had...no joy. Tomorrow on to the points.
Any update? Did you figure out what the problem was?
Very useful and easy to understand, video
Hi Adam, nice video. My 67 Mustang distributor has a small piece of felt in the distributor shaft, and it's recommended to oil when you do maintenance. It helps to lubricate the bearing for the shaft of the distributor. I couldn't tell if your distributor has any felt in the center of it or not. As you said not all distributors are the same.
Yes. Your points kit should come with a little capsule of grease. I have a big tube of Accel distributor grease in case it doesn't
Thanks for this comment my 3.7l mercruiser has that little peice of foam and now I know what it's for!!
What kind of lubricant ?
Great video! Thanks 🙏😀
Great vid. Trying to convert the info to solve my struggles with a stationary engine with magneto ignition...
Very informative, not many people nowadays know how ignitions worked in the past.
Brilliant video.
I am having 1949/50 model Vauxhall Velox the distributor looks same in this vedio . Thanks a lot for this informative vedio
Glad it could help
Really helpful, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Great information and review. Thanks.
Drawback of point system is that it sucks mosture during car engine wash .so be careful and cover it carefully during engine wash.
Thanks for the video, I wonder if you can help me with my trouble. I have no idea where I can buy a new points system? Any suggestions?
Well done Adam good to see knowledge and skills being shared, just a little about the condenser, when the points open and the magnetic field in the primary side of the coil collapses it induces a high voltage in the secondary side as you said but it also generates a back emf of around 500 volts in the primary the purpose of the condenser is to absorb and dissipate it, if it fails that's when you get excessive sparking and burning at the points a telltale sign is a white powdery deposit that creates a bad contact and misfiring, you make me feel old when I was a lad this was state of the art lol.
Always wondered if a 10 watt diode would be better at controlling the back emf
@@daphnejames3571 It is sometimes good practice to use a protection diode on inductive loads such as across the pos and neg of the coil in this case the points are switching the coils negative so you can't use one in place of the condenser it probably wouldn't handle the voltage spike anyway being a semiconductor it can only go open circuit if it fails best stick with the condenser if you're having problems getting one the right physical size you can put them on the outside of the distributor.
Thanks for the video. First time viewer. You got a new subscriber. Trouble shooting a 1946 sunbeam Talbot.
Great video!
I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Adam
I was testing my points today by opening /closing them using a screwdriver to test if they spark.. The surfaces are good and a new coil fitted. They were only sparking SLIGHTLY and not every time they were opened. I was testing to seeing if the condensor may be faulty (orange spark instead of usual blue colour)
Do I suspect the condensor as a result of this ?
It would be good if you might make a video of a good condenser in operation against a failed one.... Thank you
Ian
Hi Adam thank you for sharing very very helpful information indeed
Try taking the HT wire from the centre of the distributor and set it about a quarter inch from the block and there should be a big blue spark as the points open with ignition on. The spark on the points is less to see.
I bloody hate electrical things, but when it’s explained to you in the correct manner , it’s piss easy .
But you often forget if you only do something once a year or so ...
Very nice tutorial but I mis the part of how to align the distributor in the engine
How does the distributor get ground? Is it from the contact point where it sits in the whole? Basic chassis ground?
Thank you great video
My Pertronix electric ignition conversion failed. Now I have new points in, it starts about a second quicker. Not going back to electronic.
First! And I love the basic videos 😁
Please can you advise where the brown braided wire goes…. Mine broke off and I can’t see where it went…. I was thinking it went with the orange wire under the nut.. but when you removed that orange wire there was no brown wire…..
I have been on jag forums and spent a week asking this question and nobody has been able to answer the question.
Please help
How about a video on dwell?
I need some help, I have a world war II generator that was running before I restored it and painted it. I made sure all my ground points are grounded down to pure metal getting good ground on my positive areas too. I got it wired correctly I have the wire diagram in the distributor is not getting sparked the spark plug cylinder holes I thought that might be a problem so I sanded it down and made a good ground point for the spark plugs still no spark. It's a 4-cylinder Hercules engine. My coil is good much distributor is good my condenser is good everything is good just no spark I'm missing a wire somewhere. I have one wire negative from my distributor to my coil negative to negative. From the coil positive to positive to the ignition switch. Just curious if you have any thoughts of where wire might be missing
A mechanic told me once not using sand paper on the points because they are fragile metal made. Did you hear the same once?
Its the paper ( paper about the thickness as a matchbox) is fragile and good for cleaning and adjusting contact points. Its an old mechanics trick if you dont have feeler gauges at hand.
Thanks for the nestalgia.
very helpful! what is this bolt with the "AR" on it?
I assume it is to advance or retard the ignition timing never seen that before normally (on german cars) you turn the distrubutor clockwise or anticlockwise to adjust ignition timing in accordance with mfg specification e.g. 6 degrees after TDC.
@@kaspersvendsen8510 yes you're correct it's for fine tuning, in the bad old days when we had 2star and 4star leaded petrol with a different octane rating you could tweak it to suit, advance as much as you could but if it started pinking ( pre-ignition ) you could retard it slightly, now we have 95 octane as standard we don't have to, however some modern cars have knock sensors and do it automatically and these can benefit from 100 octane, if you don't have them then no benefit don't bother save your money.
Great video, thanks and really enjoying your S Type series as I am going through something similar with a 1966 S Type, 3.8. Is your S Type a positive earth or negative earth?
Thanks!
Thank you!
Can a coil be damaged, yet not completely burnt out? I ask because I am having a weird problem where my old chevy truck won’t idle (though higher rpms work fine), and somebody suggested it could be a bad coil. Just about all else is new, and there are no air leaks anywhere (brand new carb).
Yes they can. You can check their resistance to see. Look up with the primary and secondary winding resistance should be for the coil in your truck.
Have you seen sparky im looking for sparkey
I like the idea of electronic ignition to replace the contact points, but have heard of a lot of these cheap systems failing, so I tend to stick with using points...
Question. Would excessive side play in the distributor shaft cause erratic idle, would you think ?
Thanks
Yes that would cause running issues since the point gap would constantly be changing as the engine rotates.
@@LivingWithAClassic I'm on the case and have already replaced the bearings the and noticed an improvement.
use the simple test to check your condenser with screwdriver inserted plug wire held close to eng at idle how far will spark jump1/4 in or less bad 3/4 in perfect this what pitts points less voltage show rest will jump open points pitting them
What happens when the breaker point close?
Nice
you can not put just any condenser in mfds very important has to match coil electicly
Tractor was being a poopy head ended up being them points
Match book feeler gauge
point distributors suck they use to go out all the time I upgraded trucks with a hei distributor never again struggle with that & that’s my point 😂
Yes that’s a good upgrade but some people do want to keep things stock
Thanks!