Hi Justin. Just recently been watching your videos and have to admit I don't usually comment. but with almost 50 years of riding experience I find carrying spare clutch and brake levers might be a good idea for your spare space in your battery box. They break quite easily if the bike is dropped. They are cheap to buy and easily replaced, if you have them with you. And they don't take up a lot of space. Thanks for taking the time to make these great informative videos. Keep up the good work and ride safely. Ron.
I just sold my CRF250L and the Himalayan is on top on my list I have a dealer in Decatur Alabama about 55 miles away . I am so glad that I found your channel. I really like your detailed video's.No music and no editing. Keep up the good work and greetings from North Alabama / Mississippi..
Thanks OSDB! I have some other stuff with music, odd, modern music at that, but there's a time and place for everything. Instructional vids don't need any frills. Another one being posted tomorrow morning. Auto chain oiler. I hope a Himalayan suits you well! 🙂
I multiplied your .01 amp draw for 24 hours and got almost a quarter of an amp. Taking that further to one week and and a month resulted in 6.72 amps draw for one month - almost the total supply of your 8 amp/hour battery. Nice video.
Hi Justin Just taken delivery of my new Himalayan. Very impressed with your vlogs, all your tips and tricks are really helpful. So much so that requested my dealer to fit a Lithium battery, after seeing your vlog on installing antigravity battery upgrade. Hopefully won't have any probs over winter. Keep those vlogs coming. Regards from York UK.
I like your multipurpose tool. I don't think that I have ever seen a repair video as detailed and thorough as this one. Please do a video about fixing my refrigerator and computer. :-)
Ha ha! I'm seriously cracking up right now. Ok, so I 'll do a whole series starting with multiple user accounts and security on a PC, and somehow ends up on high-efficiency refrigeration compressors and temper control switches. Should be a piece of cake. 😀 Thanks Chuck!
If you buy a decent brand lithium battery they make them the same physical size as the original, the need for foam to wedge small replacements goes and then the new battery is safely clamped down like the original. AFAM make lithium batteries, my GSXR has one and it's a straight swap in size, but a fraction of the weight with more CCA power
Good point. Personally I wanted that leftover space. It's ideal for spare innertube, fuse block for accessories, etc. But I can see how a lot of people would not be concerned with that and just want a perfect swap. Good info. 👍
This bike is the epitome of freedom -you don't have to go to the dealer for repairs and service Love its implicitly and ease of access. Thats moto freedom!
Hi Justin, regarding your battery, contrary to everyone's belief it is not advisable to constantly leave a battery on a maintenance charger for long periods, I have killed 4 batteries on my own bike by doing this over the winter, one of which I actually never got to ride the bike with it on, the correct way to use them is to put them on for a short time every couple of weeks to top the battery up, once fully charged disconnect the maintenance charger, modern bikes with all their electronics, even a clock, will have a very small constant drain, hope this helps.
My Buell does/did the same thing. When I changed the bulb to a brighter unit, I wired a relay with a delay in to allow the bike to start prior to the light coming on. Works great
I've been looking at a lithium battery also. I personally took my battery inside during the winter and had it on a maintenance charger and had no issues with my Varta, so it could be that the cold affected yours also. I did however hate trying to get it in and out and think the one you used looks like a great replacement, including the size & weight reduction and the terminal switching capability. I would probably use the space inside the area for a tube with some spare keys for the house & bike/money in a waterproof match container. That way if you are travelling and get robbed or lose your keys etc, you still have a house key, bike key (in my case pannier key also) and some money to get gas to get home. One last thought would be that if you were concerned with the screw on the negative terminal eating into the positive cable with your cross over, you could use a small piece of teflon sheet to lay between the wire and the screw head. That stuff wears for ever. 8)
Excellent comments Scott! And I like the money and keys idea. I think I'll include that along with the items mentioned in the video. Plenty of room. Regarding my Varta battery, it was also indoors with the charger. I started having issues with it even in the fall. My guess is I just got an odd unit. I do need to inspect the bike charging system though. I tested that it does charge, but I don't know it it stops when the battery is full, if the current is consistent, etc. I think I take a better look just to be on the safe side.
Excellent video-first one I have seen actually taking the battery out step by step. My bike is in Spain, where the temperature is higher than the UK, let alone Alaska, so thinking with less temperature range the battery will last. Whatever, when it needs replacing, it will be with a smaller lithium battery. Having a bit more space under the seat is a great thing to have.
Hi Justin, 1.5 years on, can we get an update on how its holding up? any issues with the stock regulator / rectifier charging the battery? any other problems? I'm considering a lithium upgrade for my new Himmi and would like your feedback on how you have found it please.
A really good improvement over the original design. It might be a good idea to check for chafe on the positive power cable where it passes over the side bracket and at the negative terminal.
What would YOU do with all that extra space in the battery box? Comment below! I'm looking for good ideas that'll save my bacon on a future ride. Oh, now that's an idea... SMOKED BACON! Also you'll find a complete Index and product links in the description. Good Karma. 🙂
If size and weight are important, lithium batteries are the way to go. The only drawback that I've heard is a drop in capacity at temps below freezing. I assume that affects Cold Cranking Amps - something maybe of significance in Alaska? I'm interested in hearing your future experiences with this.
I had some outlets on my DR650 which pulled down my battery. Took me awhile to figure that out. Put them on a switch, no more problems. I also switched to Lithium. Cold days I had to wait a moment for the battery to warm up before it would turn over the beast.
@@drdubb76 honestly once It gets cold here, it's just too dang cold to ride and too much ice on the roads. Plus we use gravel here, not salt, so you pea stone gravel on top ice. It's a death trap.
160 ca was not enough with a LiFePo4 battery (brand "BC"). This battery was only able to crank the Himalayan (2021 euro 5 model) with a warm engine, or just after having been charged. So it seems the value is a bit on the brink. IMHO it's a very wise choice to go for more cranking amps, but be careful because the size of the battery increases with it.
Im from India I own a himalayan Thanks for this great modification idea Keep up the good work It’s cold in my place so the battery started to go weak So I was looking for a solution
Maybe a nice hidden second key. Spark plugs and even a spark plug wire. Maybe even some in-line fuel filter spares. Emergency cash or precious metals (1 oz silver bar). Def some back up documents for the bike and even photocopy of the driver licenses. For security reasons, You could probably get away with blacking out your address on the photocopy yet still have it be useful in a weird situation you would need identification and your main source is MIA. I’d say some extra cash (100 bucks) A spark plug and wire. Cut in a clear fuel filter prior to any other filter and have some replacements for it then some zip ties and duct tape. If you’re feeling board one day, wrap the rear sub frame with the survival Paracord.
BTW, I have the same problem with a USB/cigarette plug combo. It's the cheap wiring. Took about 2 days to drain my battery. Luckily I have a kick start in addition to my electric start. Replaced the wire and cleared up the problem.
206/5000 Thank you, my Himalayan is only 1600 km, I bought in May, but when the time comes I will replace the original battery for a lithium, despite being very expensive here in Brazil, like about 300 $. Great video!
Interesting video, thank-you for posting, I may do the same to my own Himalayan. I do have a couple of questions though: 1) Lithium batteries usually specify a much lower Ah capacity that their lead-acid equivalents, like 3Ah vs. 8Ah for example; to me it sounds as if the lithium ones may well provide better cranking power but their charge lasts far less when they are connected to a load while not being constantly recharged. Is my take correct? 2) When the battery is in the vehicle it is recharged by a system that is meant for lead-acid units; why then are special chargers needed to recharge/maintain them off-board? What am I missing?
That's a good idea no matter what. But I might not have been clear in the video. While the headlight does cause a draw, which can hinder starting if the battery is low, the problem is the battery being low or dead to begin with. Many people have reported their Himalayan batteries being junk after only a couple months of use. So the battery may need to be swapped out. But I still like the idea of being able to control if the headlight is on when you start. Sometimes you just need that little extra power, especially on a cold day. Thanks Javed! 👍
Good video. I have always had mixed results with batteries. I have generally used OEM batteries. In some cases the battery lasted for years, in other cases the same model battery only lasted one year. A while back I put a lithium battery on one of my bikes. It lasted two years. The bike it was installed in has a small parasitic draw, I think for a "keep alive" circuit for the date and time functions of the instrument cluster. I let the battery go dead and I was not able to get it revived. My mistake, but my battery did not have the ability to shut itself off when the voltage dropped. Currently both bikes have OEM Yausa batteries and I religiously plug them into a NORCO Genius G4 battery tender. I also plug in my generator's battery to the same unit. I have a charger like yours on our horse trailer. It has worked well in that application. I think I will consider a lithium battery s a replacement again if it is sold in the same overall dimensions as a motorcycle battery. That way I won't need to put in any foam fillers but the battery will still be much lighter.
I've had similar experiences. My Suzuki Bandit battery is old and never has an issue. It sat for a month or more before I fired the bike up or connected a charger. Bike started just fine. For my generator I'm using a small solar charger. Well, I have no choice, the generator is out at the cabin. No services out there. So while I'm away the battery keeps with solar. There are larger Lithium batteries that don't require foam, but then you're also paying for a larger battery.
It also seems that the ATZ-10 has perfect dimensions for Himalayan (with no need to pack foam etc..etc..as you did with the ATZ-7) and more power. I may go with that choice instead, however it is a little bit more money...
In the video you’ve installed the Antigravity ATZ7 to replace the OEM Varta battery. Couple questions: 1. How is it performing since you’ve installed it a little over a year ago (as I write this)?, 2. Did you consider the Antigravity ATZ10 which has the same physical dimensions as the Varta? Thanks.
Hi Bill. The battery has held up fine for me. No complaints. Still needs a maintenance charger, but lasts a heck of a lot longer than my original battery. Regarding the 10AH battery, I included it as a recommendation for others to consider in the video description, but I've been fine with the 7. For anyone planning to install accessory lights along with the heated grips, or if they just want more peace of mind knowing the battery is longer-lasting, I strongly encourage them to consider the ATZ10 linked here amzn.to/2sYFk3I. There is also an 8AH unit, amzn.to/2Ynfmph. But the 7AH battery has worked well, even in cold weather and long use of the heated grips, amzn.to/2Ff28iK. Excellent question. 👌
@@jmatley Just installed the Antigravity 10AH battery in my 2019 Himalayan and it fit like a champ. Getting all the wiring guts back into the cavity was a friction point but eventually got it all back together. Thanks for the tip on using Antigravity. Cheers!
Thanks for the helpful video! My stock battery on the Himalayan died during the winter so I replaced it with the Antigravity battery using your video and it worked perfectly! Excited to ride with this new mod
I have Been thinking about the Himalayan. I like the fact that the engine is not souped up. Lower compression less stress. I have heard through the gossip line that a twin cylinder 650 is in the works. I hope so. I am a lot heavier than you 300 lbs. There are some creeks I like to fish and getting there going over the boundary trail to get to them like i used to when I was younger would make it more fun.
Hey, even I would like a 650. Shoot, even a 500 would put this thing over the top, a little more top-end breathing room. I think you have the right idea on how to reclaim some of your youth. 👍😀
Wow!! Pricy little battery but seems like its worth the peace of mind. I've heard nothing but complaints about the stock Varta batteries. Sounds like they need to be left on life support if they are left to sit for more than three or four days. LOL
It was worth it to me. Plus... I had no choice. My original battery was shot. Thought I'd go lighter if I had to drop the money. And being that there was no RE dealer near me (until just this summer) I couldn't exchange it.
When I went to pick up my new Himalayan, the battery was so dead, even the dash lights wouldn't come on. I think that, from what I heard, the original batteries are still a problem. Anyway the dealer replaced the battery with a new Japanese one so I should be golden for awhile.
You'd think they'd get a handle on that. Glad you got a new one. Will be interesting to know if the Japanese battery holds a charge longer. If so, it would further point to the original battery being a problem vs the bike somehow drawing the battery down.
I may be wrong, but I believe with these batteries you can just unhook the ground in the winter. They lose almost nothing with no draw. Just wondering if you could use the other posts on the battery to hook your accessories up to. Love your videos. Informative and great quality.
Absolutely you could put the accessories on the other terminals. They're just harder to get to. But should you really need to mess with them much once installed? Probably not. I think it's a good way to go. Thanks for the positive feedback Craig! 🙂
I think I may have mounted the battery on the side, and drilled a hole through the side case, and then installed a small rubber plug. That way I could hit the reset w/o taking the seat off (by using a screwdriver or some such. And by the way, in my space by the battery in my bike, I installed an electronic unit that flashes the brake lights 5 times before going on solid whenever I apply the brake; hoping to keep the folks behind me alert, :) Nice channel, I was watching Noraly, and found you by RUclips giving me other results for the Himalayan, nice job!
Hey, Jimster, I like your idea having an access port to the restart button. Good thinking! And the brake flasher too. I think those flashers really work. Superb idea! Glad you stumbled across my channel, and thanks for sharing ideas. 🍻😀
Now days batteries are like other electronics. They can just go bad overnight. Like light bulbs, they work until they don't. I use Odessey extreme service. They often last over a decade.
Whatever is in my Bandit is super old and reliable too. Don't know what it is. Never had to pull it out. That would be funny if it turned out to be an Odessey. 🙂
Very Helpful, look forward to reading more of the comments below as you have a well informed following as well. I don't predict a million views anytime soon but it's solid useful content. Much appreciated.
Found you a week or two ago when my wingman since 1982 mentioned downsizing our bikes after lo these many years and trailering a couple to places (62 year old knees are unlike 26 year old knees, lol). Like many I am suddenly perusing the big three...310gs, x300 and the Himalayan. Your trip videos were enjoyable and your perspective is valuable, thank you. I have a question or two that may fit within this thread since it is about long-term reliability and fit and finish...my bike has been a BMW 1200LT or R1150RT for years and so I am used to 730 Watts of 12v goodness. I don't even recall how many watts the REH can put out but imagine it is pretty skimpy so the regulator could be a factor if they pot is cheaply made and such. A temporarily wired in mm with amps showing would tell the tale with some driving about. They also make some gauges that will show volts/amps. My main concern is with fit/finish of the bike, having heard of rust showing up on cheap welds, weeping of oil and clutch fatigue. I know you haven't had yours that long but possibly you have some perspective, thanks. I confess to being emotionally drawn to the Himalayan because of the simplicity and the Indiana Jones and the Lost Himalayan vibe :)...but not sure I could tolerate too many excursions in reliability without therapy, lol, thanks for any info.
Big Indiana Jones fan, so point taken on the rugged looks of this bike. The initial go-anywhere, no-frills, get-the-job-done look of the bike is what first caught my attention. And then it started getting good reviews for value and functionality and actual effectiveness off-road. But I shared the same concerns regarding fit and finish. I know you'll have to get your own close-up look, but what I can tell you is that the tank and fenders are nothing to be worried about. Quite nice and gets the job done. The frame seems stout and paint durable. Welds, although note as tidy as robotic welds, don't appear to be haphazard. Looks like any other bike you would have trusted for years of service that came from earlier Hondas and Suzukis. My bike was kept indoors all winter so rust has not been an issue... for the most part. There are a couple of threaded locations to insert bolts for accessories. These bare threads are showing a bit of rust. It'll never affect the integrity of the frame, but when I see it I wish I had threaded a bolt in there with some anti-seize just to keep it from happening. You may want to do that. The center stand was down all winter. The feet of the center stand where often in water from snow that melted off my wife's jeep onto the garage floor. Where the center stand contacted the damp floor... minor surface rust. I take full responsibility on that one. I mean come on, that's bare metal sitting in standing water for many months. Again, just surface rust in a place that no one can even see. I just wanted to let you know. Everything is quite adequate for the money, and I don't have many worries. Th only thing that really annoys me is the use of zip ties throughout the bike. They hold wires, cables, tubes... everything with crummy little zip ties. Do they work? Yes. Do they seem oddly cheap? Yes. In one place under the tank a single zip tie was too short to wrap around the entire frame tube and cables. They zipped two ties together! Sure, I've done that myself in a pinch when needed, but come on... on a motorcycle? I wouldn't let it discourage you from considering/making a purchase, but since you specifically asked about fit and finish... I think it's worth noting. I hope RE stops doing this. Everything else looks great, and then all these little cheap zip ties are all over. Would be so easy and affordable to just use proper straps. Well, that's my 2 cents (the value of all the zip ties) on that stuff. Sorry for the length of this. You asked for it! 😃👍
@@KARMAkazeMoto Good answer, thanks. I don't mind a zip tie here and there but the chassis wiring needs some taping/strapping, no doubt. I usually go back and do that after I determine my wiring machinations worked :). I discovered the alternator puts out around 230 watts according to a fellow with a 2018 so probably the same for this year. Have to be judicious, I guess :). I do like me some heated grips and the BMW 310GS supposedly has 308 watts...but I may be in the mood for more panache and less precision :), thanks again.
Thanks for sharing that info. It helps me out because I have heated grips to get installed, and I typically have electronics that need to be charged while riding. I may not want to ever run heated grips while charging at the same time period
@@KARMAkazeMoto It would be handy to find out the alternator output at various rpms...perhaps someone has already done that or possibly RE has some info, that would tell us what we can run while riding. Are all those vehicles in the driveway yours :). I used to have a stable about that large until I realized this ginormous autopay every month was for car insurance, lol. Down to four for now. Apparently I swore sometime back in the distant past to only have one truck and one bike at the same time...I do not recall that comment...:)
@@RC-uw9uy ha, no, not all mine. I share a driveway with my neighbors. We have 1 Land Cruiser and 1 Jeep. The 6x6 was in my way in the garage, but it has since been hauled up north to my cabin. If you see a motorcycle, then yeah, that's me. 😏
Closed-cell foam can be found at any hardware or big box home store. It's not terribly expensive. be sure to buy closed-cell, not open-cell foam. Great vid! I might buy this battery for my Moto Guzzi Stelvio.
I didn't realize until I posted the link how relatively inexpensive the Antigravity battery was. Don't get me wrong, $116 is not a cheap batter, but for Lithium? That has an auto shutoff? Even a quality lead acid batter could run $89. And thanks for sharing the tip on the sealed foam. I'm sure it's WAY cheaper than buying from Antigravity. Lucky for me I had stuff from when Antigravity included foam with their batteries. Was so glad I found that stuff and was able to finish off the battery at the end of the vid. Thanks Robert!
Great idea that start button, technically you would never get stuck again. A tube of 'Metal Putty' might be a handy item, I used that stuff to fix a crack in a sump pan once, brilliant.
Our Indian Govt. Make it compulsory for the two wheeler vehicle's headlight on whenever you turn on the vechicle. Why the govt. Does that!? Is that people could each other from far away on the highways, that's the only reason!! Thank you for vid. It helps a lot... Keep it up Your good work... 👍👍
I guess it makes some sense, and truly my other bikes are like this as well. It's not a strange thing. But it is a tradeoff, and on an adventure bike I feel the important thing is to not wear the battery down and get stranded. Thanks for that info. And for complimenting the video. Much appreciated, Sir. 🙂
On the UK facebook group some have had the battery fail too. Maybe a bad batch. RE need to improve some aspects for their QA. Mine has been ok, had the bike six months and done 1400 miles. Has been stood for up to two weeks and started fine with no battery manager. My USB charger uses a relay to shut it down when the bike is off. You can tap into the rear light to trigger the relay. Some more knowledgeable than I have said that the charging circuit can not cope with too many accessories. May need to check the extra demand can be supported by the alternator.
I would use the space for some survival gear, fishing line, compass, fire making stuff, maybe a solar blanket, and maybe some bullion cubes. After that under battery, coil of insulated wire, wire ties, and baggie of spare nuts and bolts....
I agree that .01 amps is not an issue. That equates to a 10 mA (milliamp) draw which is nominal. For reference a car is allowed up to a 40 or 50 mA draw with all power accessories off and all computers in sleep mode. Of course a car battery has a lot more reserve capacity than a motorcycle battery, but still, 10 mA is fine. Thanks for another good video.
Glad to get some backup on that! Thanks Jim! I'm going to do some further testing of the rate and consistency of charge coming from the bike just to be 100% certain it was a battery-only issue. No sense in harming the new Lithium unit if it can be avoided.
Choke? It was my understanding that the RE Himalayan is electronically fuel injected, and chokes are only on carburetors. Did you convert? While is usually impossible to check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in AGM batteries, I would check your battery charge's output when it is set to the mode you used over the winter. Varta is a Swiss company and they usually have better than average quality control for their products made in other countries. For periods of under a two months, a 'battery tender' is usually not needed.
Thanks, you're welcome! This vid isn't very exciting, but may come in handy to people for the next few years. So far the battery swap and flipping the terminals around has been worthwhile.
Your presentation is excellent and material is inspiring me to consider getting one...in this video I did not see a later install video on the 12v/USB port system...do you have the brand and/or link to it??
Constant maintenance charging decreases overall battery life, battery chemistry isn't helped by being on constant trickle charge. A couple of hours a week will maintain voltage and allow the ups and downs necessary. A battery is a bank - deposit withdraw, deposit withdraw, deposit withdraw.
My understanding is maintenance chargers are not constantly charging. That would be catastrophic. I believe they only provide a light charge once a significant drop in voltage is detected. I'm aware the best way to store lithium for long periods of time is in a balanced state of 50%. Not exactly practical to start your bike at a moment's notice, but it would be a nice feature on a maintenance charger to set a start and end date to hold at 50% (during winter storage), then jump to 100% just in time for spring riding. Maybe it already exists. 🤔🙂
@@KARMAkazeMoto I should have been clearer, my comment was more about the failed battery's life may have prematurely ended due to maintenance charging. Lithium cells should be cv/cc and I doubt many maintenace chargers have that ability presently. Maybe Antigravity will see it as a possible extension to their product range. I have a bank of 12v 7Ah batteries connected to a solar set up on my shed roof running lights etc. in there. I've taken a lead off the busbar to a point where I can pop on clips to my bike battery, but in a climate where I have been able to ride throughout winter it's not been needed yet. Thanks for responding to a comment on a video put up quite a while back 👍
The lithium has more amp hours, usable, than the stock battery. The best agm batteries will only deliver 1/2 the rated amp hrs. Lithium batteries deliver essentially all the rated capacity. So the stock 8 amp hrs. is actually only 4 and the lithium is much closer to the 7.
the 12v 8Ah lead-acid battery gives only 96w, half of it is usable, so 48W. The 7A li-ion battery can give all the nominal capacity, so 84w real capacity. In real life, the Li-ion battery you built in lasts much longer than the lead-acid you replaced.
I think your idea of putting tubes of j b weld in is good. I think a strip of foam to get the play out would be a good move. The cable on top if you could make sure it doesn't rub thru the insulation is key. Love the smaller size of the battery and your setup. Now let's ride!!! VAUGHN
I think I will protect that + cable better. Thanks for the encouragement! I'm thinking I could add a little clip to the side of the air box that holds the cable instead of the cable resting on top the negative terminal. Would be a nice way to do it up. And I totally agree, it is time to ride! 😀
looks like that space might fit an innertube. when you pull out the new one you could put the old one back in till you replaced it with a new one again.
Thanks for a great video. i just bought my 2022 Himalayan a couple of weeks ago. Since I am planning a couple of long trips soon I wanted to check with you and see how your Lithium battery is holding up, I will probably change to the lithium after my initial breaking in period. Have you had any problems with the battery so far? Thanks again for the video.
Enjoy that Himalayan! My battery is fine, but I'd like to encourage you to go with the ATX-10 model instead of the 7 if you can budget a little more. Either model is linked in the description. I heard Antigravity was telling people to go with the 10, that the 7 was inadequate. Not sure how that can be since the power output and capacity are equal or greater than the original Himalayan battery. Mine has been fine. Either way, extra power on the 10 means less need for a maintenance charge when parked for longer periods of time, and more starts if the bike ever encounters hard starting. Aloha! Sitting on a plane headed to Hawaii right now. 🏝
Lithium batteries usually have problem charging in freezing temperatures. You may actually kill battery if you attempt to charge it cold. Has this battery been tested for winter conditions?
Thanks for this video. I just noticed the anti-gravity UK website states that the atz-7 is not suitable for the Himalayan and recommends the atz-10. Any ideas why they go with the 10 amp hour version?
Cost more? Just kidding. Even on my own video, in the description, I encourage people to get the 10. Here's the thing, the 7 has worked great for me. Even running grip heaters and charging devices. Still works. But the 10 technically fits the battery box space perfectly, and the added power will limit any rundown battery issues if you're running extra lights and other accessories. It'll last longer when sitting, endure the headlight being left on longer, etc. So the 10 is a good option. 7 works fine, 10 has more amp hours and fits perfect.
Huston, we got a problem...... ;) ))) First a Powerbank, Second, two Terminal on the batterie & then from time time load you batterie. :) Your tool is a good investment. Thumbs up. +Install your Power outlet via the horn ! so, short cabels and goes only with your ignition..... by the way. ;)+
hi Justin sorry to see the damage on your bikes by the quake. minor but heartrending for a guy who loves his bikes. anyway good modification. RE should think of this as an option for us here in India too who live in high altitude low temperatures. where no bike riding during winters.
Might use the extra space to tuck an extra spark plug in there. Like you idea of the zip ties. They are always in the way. Might also tuck a few bucks in there for those oh crap moments if any occur.
Hi! Sorry about the earthquake :( About battery, Varta is good quality and i dont understand why she drained out in just a few months? Lithium are the future and the new awsome Zontes T310 came with inteligent batterie that you can turn on or switch off. Stay safe! Kind regards from Portugal
Interesting. Good info. Mine has been working fine. But in the video description, since the beginning, I have also encouraged people to consider the ATZ10, especially if they plan to run more lighting and accessories, or if they want it to sit longer without a maintenance charge. Let's face it, the cranking amps and amp hours of the ATZ7 are as much or more than the stock Himalayan battery. Antigravity may be pushing the more costly option for profit. Maybe.
Thanks for the great video, very thorough and detailed. I haven't been stranded yet with the OEM battery, but there have been some slow crankings that has me concerned....i'm sure it's death is imminent! Ordered the battery, foam and charger using your links.
@@KARMAkazeMoto I kind of like the idea of a spare tube, just need to decide if front or rear tube is best. Would kind of like to find a small container to put some miscellaneous things in, some common bolts, and maybe some emergency beer cash!
@@KyleJohnsonMuncie I think you're the first one to say anything about common bolts. That's an excellent idea! Save weight with the lithium battery, then carry some spare fasteners.... and you're still dropping a couple pounds. Perfect idea! 🔩
When i went tender hunting for my bike hit 6 stores before found one that didn't have the the battery cable stolen out of it ! You have one of a kind side cover now , how many people can say " oh that happened when a 7.0 earthquake hit" ! ! !
Yeah, you're right. 😀 pretty unique Himalayan now! Survived a quake. I have to say, I can't believe it didn't fall over. That center stand really keeps it's footing.
Great Video Justin! Very detailed tips and excelent audio and camera ;) Yeah some battery brands are realy bad. Varta should be good but... my experience shows me that japanese brands are very good :) A friend's Yamaha FZ6 battery from 2010 is still going decent and he sometimes leave the bike stored for 3-4 months without charge... Yuasa i think. The Himalyan looks great and the new battery is a great upgrade ;) Earthquake? Ouch... Not as bad as the one in 2018 i hope. Hope everyone is ok :) Ride Safe!
Thanks, Mr Lone Wolf. 😉 My Bandit battery is similar to your friend's FZ6. It can sit for months, and it is at least 10 years old. Really impressive. Haven't looked at the brand yet, because I've never pulled it out since owning the bike. No need. 🙂 I was actually talking about that 2018 quake. I hadn't ever shown the damage until just now. Safe riding for you as well!
Yep same here, I have an '06 Goldwing that has the Yuasa battery in it. Oops, it might be the original so I'd better get that checked out! But it keeps starting up its behemoth 1800cc 6 cyl. engine, so why possibly spoil a good thing? 😁
Hi Justin, wanted to check how the new battery is working? Had a question - did you change the rectifier-regulator unit to accommodate the lithium battery or does the existing one work fine? I am thinking of switching to lithium battery on my Himalayan too. Would appreciate your feedback. Thanks for your videos and safe riding.
Agreed, especially since it's not the sort of place you want items that should be easily or quickly accessible. Survival gear would be a rare thing to need.
I want to make sure some readers don't get confused. That lever is in fact referred to as a choke in the Himalayan owners manual. It's possible the manual is written this way for the US market. While it may not mechanically function the exact same way as some old styles of carb chokes, the end result of enriching fuel is the same (you are quite right), to help with cold starts. At high altitude you often get colder weather so it would seem the choke is needed more often. But in general at high altitude a bike needs less fuel while riding, not enriched, to run properly due to the fact that there is less oxygen. Again, for other reader's sake, at low altitude, with more oxygen, we need more fuel for a proper mixture. High altitude with less oxygen we need less fuel for a proper mixture. This particular fuel injected bike does in fact have a choke. You'd think the temp sensors would allow the ECU to automatically adjust fuel delivery for cold starting, but for some reason you need to pull the choke lever manually. I thought it was strange too.
I'm *really* interested in hearing your results with this. Itchy Boots has steadfastly refused to talk about her PowerTronic ECU ever since the controversy hit after she raved about it, although its M1/M2 switch is still in place.
QUESTION for all --When you buy a new battery how does the vehicle know what type it is? - ie, lead acid or lithium etc,etc why do we need a charger that does all types of battery's ? when the vehicle only has the one type of charger it comes with.
It sure doesn't seem to make any sense, does it? My understanding is the voltage regulator in the bike is an important factor. The battery doesn't get charged at all, basically, if the regulator is getting a "topped off" voltage signal. Also on the bike there's nothing special happening with regard to the current and rate of charge, not to mention the bike is creating less current to begin with compared to what you could draw from a 110-120v outlet. A battery charger on the other hand must control/limit a higher rate of current, and smart chargers will charge at the quickest yet safest rate depending on the type of battery. Plus, with the greater potential for a lithium battery firebomb, I believe safety is one aspect of the "special" chargers. I'm no expert and I assume someone will correct me where I'm a little off course. Just sharing things I've read. It's a really good question. 🙂👍
@@KARMAkazeMoto -- Its food for thought ,I live in Australia and asked the question of a battery supplier here and he doesn't have an answer, but as long as it charges from the bike it should be good to go ( just saying ) - love your vids very informative I have a BMW r1200 rt for sale and am looking at a Himalayan to replace it , stay upright Regards GH
My RE varta lasted 6 months.. pathetic! 120cca reading 72..lasted 3 days. Tried to get one through the dealer but too time consuming.. so I ordered a yuasa ytx9.. 235 cca was the best I could find.. right choice, or should I have gone lithium?
Yuasa batteries are known for lasting a long time with minimal attention, so I think it's a fine choice I just like the lithium option for weight savings and the auto-off feature if it starts to get worn down. Nice, but not necessary.
I really liked. The video is 4 years old, can you give more information about the durability? I'm from Brazil, I believe I don't have this battery here, I'll have to import it.
Hello. I am still using the same battery I installed 4 years ago. I have not had any problems. You should know that it will need to be kept charged at least every couple of months. You should plan to have a lithium maintenance charger and just keep it plugged in every time you park for more than a week. With the maintenance charger I have kept my battery working perfectly. I would highly recommend you purchase the larger capacity battery which is linked in the video description. Again, my battery has been fine, but I think it is safer and a better value to have the larger battery.
Nice, that is 10mA of draw. For better results it is probably best to tie those accessories to a relay that is activated when the key is in the ON position. That would remove that bit of a drain.
You're 100% on the money with that idea. And the relay and accessory connections could be in the extra space. 🤔🙂👍 I've been thinking of a similar setup so the the headlight only comes on when the engine is running, relay powered by magneto instead of the key. You think that would make sense? Of course, with the auto cutoff on the battery I don't have a worry of the headlight draining the battery, but still.
@@KARMAkazeMoto Good idea, it would be nice to have it turn on like that. I cant think of a way to achieve it other than using an oil pressure switch. The magneto idea is also interesting and maybe some type of voltage controlled switch but that may leave you in the dark whenever there is a problem with the charging system. I am waiting to perform the first service on my bike. I intend to use the relay trick for my USB ports up on front. I also have an auxiliary light on front to help with the lack of high beam on my Himalayan. That one, I hope to connect to the high beam line going to the headlamp now. Maybe using a relay of some sort as well. Good deal man, I like these videos. Nice to see real life dealings with this wonderful and capable affordable bike :-)
@@KARMAkazeMoto I do have a high beam but it is not that great. The small position lamp inside the main lamp affects the projected light and the resulting beam is not a full beam. I wanted to have some more light closer in front of the bike to better see where I am going at night. Good deal bro. When I get to do mine I will try to post a video as well.
@@sampoteste I know what you mean. Feel free to link to your video in a comment here. I'll be interested to see the improvement and others might as well.
So you got a special charger for lithium but what about the Enfield charging system? How is that going to work with a lithium battery? With the Enfield being kind of basic girl maybe we should call it old-fashioned I'm thinking it's not designed for lithium? I guess we'll just have to see how it works out for you.
It works perfect. Motorcycle chargers are basically all the same and there is something about them and the voltage regulator that prevents damage to the lithium battery. I just rode to the Arctic Ocean and back (2,000 miles) and the lithium batteries did great.
Thanks for your videos, very helpful and informative. Have you had any issues with the lithium battery you installed?...I recently installed ATZ-7's in both my and my wife's 2021's (using your links). Neither one of them seem to be holding their charges -- any ideas?
First, thank you for using the links! I haven't had any problem like what you're describing with these lithium batteries in my Himalayan. I really hate to hear that someone is having problems with something that I recommended, but again that's not happening to me. Do you have some sort of accessories that are causing a constant drain? In the earlier part of this video I went through checking to see if there was any draw on the battery. That's really the only thing I can think of. I keep mine on a maintenance charger. That's been keeping the battery charged through our long winter in Alaska. But I don't need that if the bike is just sitting for a couple weeks. And I'm using an appropriate lithium charger. So how quickly are they losing charge? Overnight, or within a couple of weeks?
@@KARMAkazeMoto Thanks for the quick response! I was able to cross check another battery charger and it looks like I have a bad charger...makes the most sense since the bikes and batteries are both new and having the same issue with the same charger.
Hi Justin. I just got my Himalayan delivered and have ridden a meagre 150kms. I've noticed an issue with the bike - where the bike switches off all by itself at standstill or when I engage first gear to make a move in traffic. Have you faced this issue - where the bike switches off randomly and if yes, request for your help in letting me know how this can be fixed. I am not sure if it would be the ECU issue or an issue with the side stand sensor.
When this happens are you having to turn the key off and back on, or can you just hit the start button and fire it back up? A few times I have experienced stalls when coming to a stop (not when taking off from a stop). You're riding along, then cut the throttle, and by the time you come to a stop... it stalls. I'm not talking much about it because I need to do my maintenance/service. Until then I don't know if the issue is my own fault. I was told by another Himalayan owner that excessive fuel or pressure in the evap system has been an issue for some people. He disconnected the tube connecting the evap can (black box under the engine) to the intake and capped it off. He said that took care of it. To me that is not a fix, just a good way to diagnose the issue. Please let me know what you discover.
@@KARMAkazeMoto Not trying to interrupt but if the Himalayan has a sidestand switch cutoff I have seen other bikes have this problem where it gets loose and sags during a bump or some such and cuts off the engine, not even sure there is one, just a thought. Oh, I forgot to mention originally that I read of very similar symptoms for another fellow and he traced a loose connection from his kill switch harness to the fuse box, didn't say exactly where he found it but it solved his issue, hope this helps.
Ended up being that EVAP canister return line. I have a feeling that if it just ran to the airbox, or perhaps if it were connected to the intake before the trottle valve instead of after, this would never happen. But something is going on. The engine is obviously gulping down gases or something (a bit of water?) from the EVAP. I disconnected it, capped the port, and no more stall.
@@KARMAkazeMoto This is exactly the problem. Especially here in India. The bike delivery executive instructed me not to fill the fill the fuel tank even upto the mark that they have provided inside the tank, because due to the heat here, that would just create more pressure inside the tank and the excess gas had no place to escape because the canister was full. Then why even provide a 15 liter tank that one cannot use? Unfortunately there is no one here who has the knowledge of getting rid of the canister. The method I've found out is that, when I've parked the bike out in the sun, I open the fuel cap, let the gases escape, and then start. The bike hasn't stalled after doing this.
The battery is still the same as when I first installed it. There's been a couple times where I allowed it to drain down and remain in a low state of charge for a lengthy period of time. I was able to charge it back up and it still starts the bike. Anytime someone asks about it I do encourage them to consider the larger model which is the number 10 versus the number 7 which I have. There's a link to that number 10 in the description of the battery installation video. That one fits the battery box and it'll give people even longer lasting energy so you'd be even less likely to drain the battery down, and I suspect it would be a better choice if you were going to be running fog lights or additional accessories along with your heated grips, etc. I ran my heated grips for hours of riding with my smaller lithium battery and never had a problem. I also was able to start my bike just fine on mornings that were icy.
8:20 I dont know what you did there. you completed the Auxillary ckt with the battery. But not thorough the Multimeter? so.... May be i missed if you did any other changes to the connection. can you explain how did you decide the Aux draw is 0.001A?
I just recently put this exact battery in my Himalayan and now it won't charge. The crazy thing is, my friend got the same battery and now his Himalayan is doing the same thing as mine. I put a different battery in and it will slowly die when riding. Not sure if it was the battery or not that caused both bikes to go crazy. 🤷
Great video as always! My OEM Varta VTX9 battery died on me three months after purchase and that was last summer. Since then I’ve heard of several other US Himalayans suffers the same fate. Hope RE takes note and discontinues this particular battery make/model in their bikes stateside. I ended up replacing mine with another AGM battery but your idea of using a lithium battery is awesome. Curious to know how it works out on the Himalayan in the longer term. Thanks again for a very informative video!
Thanks! You too? I hope you got a new battery under warranty. I didn't bother checking on that, but I should have just to get a new one... for my ATV. 😀 I hope the Lithium holds up. Only time will tell. Good to hear from you again. From NY right? Can't quite remember. Ride safe!
KARMAkaze Moto I wish! It was like pulling teeth with my dealer and RE, they wanted me to bring the bike in an hour away even though I had the battery load tested and determined there was no parasitic drain. In the end I just bought my own battery and didn’t bother dealing with the warranty negotiations anymore. There have been a few more complaints about the Varta batteries on the Himalayan so I’m hoping they start to at least honor the warranty on these.
Sorry to hear that. Yup, it's sounding like a consistent problem. With new batteries now we're all testing if they'll suffer the same fate (perhaps a bike charging problem) or prove that the issue was the Varta all along. I'm hoping for the later.
Hi Justin. Just recently been watching your videos and have to admit I don't usually comment. but with almost 50 years of riding experience I find carrying spare clutch and brake levers might be a good idea for your spare space in your battery box. They break quite easily if the bike is dropped. They are cheap to buy and easily replaced, if you have them with you. And they don't take up a lot of space. Thanks for taking the time to make these great informative videos. Keep up the good work and ride safely. Ron.
I just sold my CRF250L and the Himalayan is on top on my list I have a dealer in Decatur Alabama about 55 miles away . I am so glad that I found your channel. I really like your detailed video's.No music and no editing. Keep up the good work and greetings from North Alabama / Mississippi..
Thanks OSDB!
I have some other stuff with music, odd, modern music at that, but there's a time and place for everything. Instructional vids don't need any frills. Another one being posted tomorrow morning. Auto chain oiler.
I hope a Himalayan suits you well! 🙂
I multiplied your .01 amp draw for 24 hours and got almost a quarter of an amp. Taking that further to one week and and a month resulted in 6.72 amps draw for one month - almost the total supply of your 8 amp/hour battery.
Nice video.
Tiny draw adds up! Thanks.
Hi Justin
Just taken delivery of my new Himalayan.
Very impressed with your vlogs, all your tips and tricks are really helpful. So much so that requested my dealer to fit a Lithium battery, after seeing your vlog on installing antigravity battery upgrade. Hopefully won't have any probs over winter.
Keep those vlogs coming.
Regards from York UK.
Thanks for writing Lauren. Glad you've found my videos entertaining and useful. Enjoy that Himalayan!
I like your multipurpose tool. I don't think that I have ever seen a repair video as detailed and thorough as this one. Please do a video about fixing my refrigerator and computer. :-)
Ha ha! I'm seriously cracking up right now. Ok, so I 'll do a whole series starting with multiple user accounts and security on a PC, and somehow ends up on high-efficiency refrigeration compressors and temper control switches. Should be a piece of cake. 😀
Thanks Chuck!
@@KARMAkazeMoto I enjoyed the video as well as your trip to Alaska - I am looking forward to more of your videos.
If you buy a decent brand lithium battery they make them the same physical size as the original, the need for foam to wedge small replacements goes and then the new battery is safely clamped down like the original. AFAM make lithium batteries, my GSXR has one and it's a straight swap in size, but a fraction of the weight with more CCA power
Good point. Personally I wanted that leftover space. It's ideal for spare innertube, fuse block for accessories, etc. But I can see how a lot of people would not be concerned with that and just want a perfect swap. Good info. 👍
This bike is the epitome of freedom -you don't have to go to the dealer for repairs and service Love its implicitly and ease of access. Thats moto freedom!
Holy shit by the time you're done with this bike it'll have more USB ports than apples laptops
Ha! You're right! 😀🍻
so 1?
@@Hyperious_in_the_air 2
I think it already has more 🤣
Hi Justin, regarding your battery, contrary to everyone's belief it is not advisable to constantly leave a battery on a maintenance charger for long periods, I have killed 4 batteries on my own bike by doing this over the winter, one of which I actually never got to ride the bike with it on, the correct way to use them is to put them on for a short time every couple of weeks to top the battery up, once fully charged disconnect the maintenance charger, modern bikes with all their electronics, even a clock, will have a very small constant drain, hope this helps.
My Buell does/did the same thing. When I changed the bulb to a brighter unit, I wired a relay with a delay in to allow the bike to start prior to the light coming on. Works great
Great idea. Also thinking of low wattage led headlight.
Got antigravity batteries in a few MX bikes. They definitely hold up to anything. Good batteries
Right on. Thanks for the input. 👍🙂
I've been looking at a lithium battery also. I personally took my battery inside during the winter and had it on a maintenance charger and had no issues with my Varta, so it could be that the cold affected yours also. I did however hate trying to get it in and out and think the one you used looks like a great replacement, including the size & weight reduction and the terminal switching capability. I would probably use the space inside the area for a tube with some spare keys for the house & bike/money in a waterproof match container. That way if you are travelling and get robbed or lose your keys etc, you still have a house key, bike key (in my case pannier key also) and some money to get gas to get home. One last thought would be that if you were concerned with the screw on the negative terminal eating into the positive cable with your cross over, you could use a small piece of teflon sheet to lay between the wire and the screw head. That stuff wears for ever. 8)
Excellent comments Scott! And I like the money and keys idea. I think I'll include that along with the items mentioned in the video. Plenty of room.
Regarding my Varta battery, it was also indoors with the charger. I started having issues with it even in the fall. My guess is I just got an odd unit. I do need to inspect the bike charging system though. I tested that it does charge, but I don't know it it stops when the battery is full, if the current is consistent, etc. I think I take a better look just to be on the safe side.
Excellent video-first one I have seen actually taking the battery out step by step.
My bike is in Spain, where the temperature is higher than the UK, let alone Alaska, so thinking with less temperature range the battery will last. Whatever, when it needs replacing, it will be with a smaller lithium battery. Having a bit more space under the seat is a great thing to have.
Hi Justin, 1.5 years on, can we get an update on how its holding up? any issues with the stock regulator / rectifier charging the battery? any other problems?
I'm considering a lithium upgrade for my new Himmi and would like your feedback on how you have found it please.
Up. I need to know too
A really good improvement over the original design. It might be a good idea to check for chafe on the positive power cable where it passes over the side bracket and at the negative terminal.
What would YOU do with all that extra space in the battery box? Comment below! I'm looking for good ideas that'll save my bacon on a future ride. Oh, now that's an idea... SMOKED BACON!
Also you'll find a complete Index and product links in the description. Good Karma. 🙂
@DexMeister I'm certain that idea is going to make the Top 5 list.
Anti theft device.
@@drury2d8 Good thinking! 👍
That space right next to the battery and hard to get to cries for a *theft alarm* or a *piggy-back ECU* .
If size and weight are important, lithium batteries are the way to go. The only drawback that I've heard is a drop in capacity at temps below freezing.
I assume that affects Cold Cranking Amps - something maybe of significance in Alaska? I'm interested in hearing your future experiences with this.
I had some outlets on my DR650 which pulled down my battery. Took me awhile to figure that out. Put them on a switch, no more problems. I also switched to Lithium. Cold days I had to wait a moment for the battery to warm up before it would turn over the beast.
That's a good reminder about that warm-up situation. Did you just let the headlight get it warmed up?
@@KARMAkazeMoto Yes, that was enough, although I doubt we have the cold here in NC that you have in Alaska
@@drdubb76 honestly once It gets cold here, it's just too dang cold to ride and too much ice on the roads. Plus we use gravel here, not salt, so you pea stone gravel on top ice. It's a death trap.
160 ca was not enough with a LiFePo4 battery (brand "BC"). This battery was only able to crank the Himalayan (2021 euro 5 model) with a warm engine, or just after having been charged. So it seems the value is a bit on the brink. IMHO it's a very wise choice to go for more cranking amps, but be careful because the size of the battery increases with it.
Im from India
I own a himalayan
Thanks for this great modification idea
Keep up the good work
It’s cold in my place so the battery started to go weak
So I was looking for a solution
Bhai aapne abs bina waali li ya abs waali?? Abs bina waali 30000₹ sasti hai
@@starscream1457 abs wali
Maybe a nice hidden second key. Spark plugs and even a spark plug wire. Maybe even some in-line fuel filter spares. Emergency cash or precious metals (1 oz silver bar). Def some back up documents for the bike and even photocopy of the driver licenses. For security reasons, You could probably get away with blacking out your address on the photocopy yet still have it be useful in a weird situation you would need identification and your main source is MIA. I’d say some extra cash (100 bucks)
A spark plug and wire. Cut in a clear fuel filter prior to any other filter and have some replacements for it then some zip ties and duct tape. If you’re feeling board one day, wrap the rear sub frame with the survival Paracord.
BTW, I have the same problem with a USB/cigarette plug combo. It's the cheap wiring. Took about 2 days to drain my battery. Luckily I have a kick start in addition to my electric start. Replaced the wire and cleared up the problem.
206/5000
Thank you, my Himalayan is only 1600 km, I bought in May, but when the time comes I will replace the original battery for a lithium, despite being very expensive here in Brazil, like about 300 $. Great video!
Its considered a bit expensive in india too.... Brazio and india both consider any bike above 300cc sort of big bike 😅😅😅..
Dude you saved a bike today. Couldn't get the damn batt out of the box and nearly torched the whole bike for spite!
😂
Yeah, you'd think it would be easier! Happy to be of help. 🍻
Interesting video, thank-you for posting, I may do the same to my own Himalayan. I do have a couple of questions though: 1) Lithium batteries usually specify a much lower Ah capacity that their lead-acid equivalents, like 3Ah vs. 8Ah for example; to me it sounds as if the lithium ones may well provide better cranking power but their charge lasts far less when they are connected to a load while not being constantly recharged. Is my take correct? 2) When the battery is in the vehicle it is recharged by a system that is meant for lead-acid units; why then are special chargers needed to recharge/maintain them off-board? What am I missing?
Remove the fuse for headlight and start the bike. Add a switch in the fuse line and keep the headlights off! That's cheap than the battery itself
That's a good idea no matter what.
But I might not have been clear in the video. While the headlight does cause a draw, which can hinder starting if the battery is low, the problem is the battery being low or dead to begin with. Many people have reported their Himalayan batteries being junk after only a couple months of use. So the battery may need to be swapped out. But I still like the idea of being able to control if the headlight is on when you start. Sometimes you just need that little extra power, especially on a cold day.
Thanks Javed! 👍
Good video. I have always had mixed results with batteries. I have generally used OEM batteries. In some cases the battery lasted for years, in other cases the same model battery only lasted one year.
A while back I put a lithium battery on one of my bikes. It lasted two years. The bike it was installed in has a small parasitic draw, I think for a "keep alive" circuit for the date and time functions of the instrument cluster. I let the battery go dead and I was not able to get it revived. My mistake, but my battery did not have the ability to shut itself off when the voltage dropped. Currently both bikes have OEM Yausa batteries and I religiously plug them into a NORCO Genius G4 battery tender. I also plug in my generator's battery to the same unit. I have a charger like yours on our horse trailer. It has worked well in that application.
I think I will consider a lithium battery s a replacement again if it is sold in the same overall dimensions as a motorcycle battery. That way I won't need to put in any foam fillers but the battery will still be much lighter.
I've had similar experiences. My Suzuki Bandit battery is old and never has an issue. It sat for a month or more before I fired the bike up or connected a charger. Bike started just fine. For my generator I'm using a small solar charger. Well, I have no choice, the generator is out at the cabin. No services out there. So while I'm away the battery keeps with solar.
There are larger Lithium batteries that don't require foam, but then you're also paying for a larger battery.
It also seems that the ATZ-10 has perfect dimensions for Himalayan (with no need to pack foam etc..etc..as you did with the ATZ-7) and more power. I may go with that choice instead, however it is a little bit more money...
I addressed everything on your previous comment. 🙂
In the video you’ve installed the Antigravity ATZ7 to replace the OEM Varta battery. Couple questions: 1. How is it performing since you’ve installed it a little over a year ago (as I write this)?, 2. Did you consider the Antigravity ATZ10 which has the same physical dimensions as the Varta? Thanks.
Hi Bill. The battery has held up fine for me. No complaints. Still needs a maintenance charger, but lasts a heck of a lot longer than my original battery.
Regarding the 10AH battery, I included it as a recommendation for others to consider in the video description, but I've been fine with the 7. For anyone planning to install accessory lights along with the heated grips, or if they just want more peace of mind knowing the battery is longer-lasting, I strongly encourage them to consider the ATZ10 linked here amzn.to/2sYFk3I.
There is also an 8AH unit, amzn.to/2Ynfmph.
But the 7AH battery has worked well, even in cold weather and long use of the heated grips, amzn.to/2Ff28iK.
Excellent question. 👌
@@jmatley Just installed the Antigravity 10AH battery in my 2019 Himalayan and it fit like a champ. Getting all the wiring guts back into the cavity was a friction point but eventually got it all back together. Thanks for the tip on using Antigravity. Cheers!
Put some anti-chafe tape on the back of the panel to stop the wires from being worn through.
Sounds like good, simple advice. 👍
Thanks.
I guess it is going to be a year you might be using this, kindly share the performance & your thoughts about it.
A nice cheese sandwich and a bag of crisps will fit perfectly 😋👍🏻
😂👌
Thanks for the helpful video! My stock battery on the Himalayan died during the winter so I replaced it with the Antigravity battery using your video and it worked perfectly! Excited to ride with this new mod
You're welcome. Be sure to keep a lithium maintenance charger on it when parked for more than a week or two.
I have Been thinking about the Himalayan. I like the fact that the engine is not souped up. Lower compression less stress. I have heard through the gossip line that a twin cylinder 650 is in the works. I hope so. I am a lot heavier than you 300 lbs. There are some creeks I like to fish and getting there going over the boundary trail to get to them like i used to when I was younger would make it more fun.
Hey, even I would like a 650. Shoot, even a 500 would put this thing over the top, a little more top-end breathing room. I think you have the right idea on how to reclaim some of your youth. 👍😀
If it needs a special charger when being charged in your garage won't the onboard charger damage the battery
the onboard charger would be charging lead acid. is it compatible with lithium ion?
Wow!! Pricy little battery but seems like its worth the peace of mind. I've heard nothing but complaints about the stock Varta batteries. Sounds like they need to be left on life support if they are left to sit for more than three or four days. LOL
It was worth it to me. Plus... I had no choice. My original battery was shot. Thought I'd go lighter if I had to drop the money.
And being that there was no RE dealer near me (until just this summer) I couldn't exchange it.
@@KARMAkazeMoto Yeah,,,not hearing great things about the Varta battery, So far so good with mine, but I may convert next season!
When I went to pick up my new Himalayan, the battery was so dead, even the dash lights wouldn't come on. I think that, from what I heard, the original batteries are still a problem. Anyway the dealer replaced the battery with a new Japanese one so I should be golden for awhile.
You'd think they'd get a handle on that. Glad you got a new one. Will be interesting to know if the Japanese battery holds a charge longer. If so, it would further point to the original battery being a problem vs the bike somehow drawing the battery down.
Oh, and I hope you get on well with that new Himalayan! 🙂
I may be wrong, but I believe with these batteries you can just unhook the ground in the winter. They lose almost nothing with no draw. Just wondering if you could use the other posts on the battery to hook your accessories up to. Love your videos. Informative and great quality.
Absolutely you could put the accessories on the other terminals. They're just harder to get to. But should you really need to mess with them much once installed? Probably not. I think it's a good way to go.
Thanks for the positive feedback Craig! 🙂
I think I may have mounted the battery on the side, and drilled a hole through the side case, and then installed a small rubber plug. That way I could hit the reset w/o taking the seat off (by using a screwdriver or some such. And by the way, in my space by the battery in my bike, I installed an electronic unit that flashes the brake lights 5 times before going on solid whenever I apply the brake; hoping to keep the folks behind me alert, :)
Nice channel, I was watching Noraly, and found you by RUclips giving me other results for the Himalayan, nice job!
Hey, Jimster, I like your idea having an access port to the restart button. Good thinking! And the brake flasher too. I think those flashers really work. Superb idea! Glad you stumbled across my channel, and thanks for sharing ideas. 🍻😀
I have the USB DC port you bought and have used it a few times and can say it is very good
Now days batteries are like other electronics. They can just go bad overnight. Like light bulbs, they work until they don't. I use Odessey extreme service. They often last over a decade.
Whatever is in my Bandit is super old and reliable too. Don't know what it is. Never had to pull it out. That would be funny if it turned out to be an Odessey. 🙂
Very Helpful, look forward to reading more of the comments below as you have a well informed following as well. I don't predict a million views anytime soon but it's solid useful content. Much appreciated.
Found you a week or two ago when my wingman since 1982 mentioned downsizing our bikes after lo these many years and trailering a couple to places (62 year old knees are unlike 26 year old knees, lol). Like many I am suddenly perusing the big three...310gs, x300 and the Himalayan. Your trip videos were enjoyable and your perspective is valuable, thank you. I have a question or two that may fit within this thread since it is about long-term reliability and fit and finish...my bike has been a BMW 1200LT or R1150RT for years and so I am used to 730 Watts of 12v goodness. I don't even recall how many watts the REH can put out but imagine it is pretty skimpy so the regulator could be a factor if they pot is cheaply made and such. A temporarily wired in mm with amps showing would tell the tale with some driving about. They also make some gauges that will show volts/amps. My main concern is with fit/finish of the bike, having heard of rust showing up on cheap welds, weeping of oil and clutch fatigue. I know you haven't had yours that long but possibly you have some perspective, thanks. I confess to being emotionally drawn to the Himalayan because of the simplicity and the Indiana Jones and the Lost Himalayan vibe :)...but not sure I could tolerate too many excursions in reliability without therapy, lol, thanks for any info.
Big Indiana Jones fan, so point taken on the rugged looks of this bike. The initial go-anywhere, no-frills, get-the-job-done look of the bike is what first caught my attention. And then it started getting good reviews for value and functionality and actual effectiveness off-road. But I shared the same concerns regarding fit and finish. I know you'll have to get your own close-up look, but what I can tell you is that the tank and fenders are nothing to be worried about. Quite nice and gets the job done. The frame seems stout and paint durable. Welds, although note as tidy as robotic welds, don't appear to be haphazard. Looks like any other bike you would have trusted for years of service that came from earlier Hondas and Suzukis. My bike was kept indoors all winter so rust has not been an issue... for the most part. There are a couple of threaded locations to insert bolts for accessories. These bare threads are showing a bit of rust. It'll never affect the integrity of the frame, but when I see it I wish I had threaded a bolt in there with some anti-seize just to keep it from happening. You may want to do that. The center stand was down all winter. The feet of the center stand where often in water from snow that melted off my wife's jeep onto the garage floor. Where the center stand contacted the damp floor... minor surface rust. I take full responsibility on that one. I mean come on, that's bare metal sitting in standing water for many months. Again, just surface rust in a place that no one can even see. I just wanted to let you know. Everything is quite adequate for the money, and I don't have many worries. Th only thing that really annoys me is the use of zip ties throughout the bike. They hold wires, cables, tubes... everything with crummy little zip ties. Do they work? Yes. Do they seem oddly cheap? Yes. In one place under the tank a single zip tie was too short to wrap around the entire frame tube and cables. They zipped two ties together! Sure, I've done that myself in a pinch when needed, but come on... on a motorcycle? I wouldn't let it discourage you from considering/making a purchase, but since you specifically asked about fit and finish... I think it's worth noting. I hope RE stops doing this. Everything else looks great, and then all these little cheap zip ties are all over. Would be so easy and affordable to just use proper straps. Well, that's my 2 cents (the value of all the zip ties) on that stuff. Sorry for the length of this. You asked for it! 😃👍
@@KARMAkazeMoto Good answer, thanks. I don't mind a zip tie here and there but the chassis wiring needs some taping/strapping, no doubt. I usually go back and do that after I determine my wiring machinations worked :). I discovered the alternator puts out around 230 watts according to a fellow with a 2018 so probably the same for this year. Have to be judicious, I guess :). I do like me some heated grips and the BMW 310GS supposedly has 308 watts...but I may be in the mood for more panache and less precision :), thanks again.
Thanks for sharing that info. It helps me out because I have heated grips to get installed, and I typically have electronics that need to be charged while riding. I may not want to ever run heated grips while charging at the same time period
@@KARMAkazeMoto It would be handy to find out the alternator output at various rpms...perhaps someone has already done that or possibly RE has some info, that would tell us what we can run while riding. Are all those vehicles in the driveway yours :). I used to have a stable about that large until I realized this ginormous autopay every month was for car insurance, lol. Down to four for now. Apparently I swore sometime back in the distant past to only have one truck and one bike at the same time...I do not recall that comment...:)
@@RC-uw9uy ha, no, not all mine. I share a driveway with my neighbors. We have 1 Land Cruiser and 1 Jeep. The 6x6 was in my way in the garage, but it has since been hauled up north to my cabin. If you see a motorcycle, then yeah, that's me. 😏
Closed-cell foam can be found at any hardware or big box home store. It's not terribly expensive. be sure to buy closed-cell, not open-cell foam. Great vid! I might buy this battery for my Moto Guzzi Stelvio.
I didn't realize until I posted the link how relatively inexpensive the Antigravity battery was. Don't get me wrong, $116 is not a cheap batter, but for Lithium? That has an auto shutoff? Even a quality lead acid batter could run $89. And thanks for sharing the tip on the sealed foam. I'm sure it's WAY cheaper than buying from Antigravity. Lucky for me I had stuff from when Antigravity included foam with their batteries. Was so glad I found that stuff and was able to finish off the battery at the end of the vid.
Thanks Robert!
Great idea that start button, technically you would never get stuck again. A tube of 'Metal Putty' might be a handy item, I used that stuff to fix a crack in a sump pan once, brilliant.
Putty instead of the 2-part tube mix is probably the way to go. Excellent. 👍
Looks to me like you've finally found a place for your owner's manual. :-)
For sure! 😀
Our Indian Govt. Make it compulsory for the two wheeler vehicle's headlight on whenever you turn on the vechicle. Why the govt. Does that!? Is that people could each other from far away on the highways, that's the only reason!! Thank you for vid. It helps a lot... Keep it up Your good work... 👍👍
I guess it makes some sense, and truly my other bikes are like this as well. It's not a strange thing. But it is a tradeoff, and on an adventure bike I feel the important thing is to not wear the battery down and get stranded. Thanks for that info. And for complimenting the video. Much appreciated, Sir. 🙂
@@KARMAkazeMoto welcome!! I agree..
On the UK facebook group some have had the battery fail too. Maybe a bad batch. RE need to improve some aspects for their QA. Mine has been ok, had the bike six months and done 1400 miles. Has been stood for up to two weeks and started fine with no battery manager. My USB charger uses a relay to shut it down when the bike is off. You can tap into the rear light to trigger the relay. Some more knowledgeable than I have said that the charging circuit can not cope with too many accessories. May need to check the extra demand can be supported by the alternator.
Hello. Your Video is very good and helpful. Your Garage is very good. Your knowledge and skills about Motorcycles are really good. Thanks.
Thank you very much.
I would use the space for some survival gear, fishing line, compass, fire making stuff, maybe a solar blanket, and maybe some bullion cubes. After that under battery, coil of insulated wire, wire ties, and baggie of spare nuts and bolts....
I agree that .01 amps is not an issue. That equates to a 10 mA (milliamp) draw which is nominal. For reference a car is allowed up to a 40 or 50 mA draw with all power accessories off and all computers in sleep mode. Of course a car battery has a lot more reserve capacity than a motorcycle battery, but still, 10 mA is fine. Thanks for another good video.
Glad to get some backup on that! Thanks Jim! I'm going to do some further testing of the rate and consistency of charge coming from the bike just to be 100% certain it was a battery-only issue. No sense in harming the new Lithium unit if it can be avoided.
Choke? It was my understanding that the RE Himalayan is electronically fuel injected, and chokes are only on carburetors. Did you convert? While is usually impossible to check the specific gravity of the electrolyte in AGM batteries, I would check your battery charge's output when it is set to the mode you used over the winter. Varta is a Swiss company and they usually have better than average quality control for their products made in other countries. For periods of under a two months, a 'battery tender' is usually not needed.
The Himalayan does have a "choke" of sorts. The manual calls it a choke. I believe the technical term is a bypass or something like that. Go figure.
And thanks for the battery info. 👍🍻
Hi Justin. You can keep some spare fuses, wire and electrical tape in the extra space 😊
Thanks! I really think that is the most practical sort of thing to do.
Thanks for posting this video. Glad nothing bad happened during the quake
Thanks, you're welcome! This vid isn't very exciting, but may come in handy to people for the next few years. So far the battery swap and flipping the terminals around has been worthwhile.
Love the video Justin! 🙌🏻
Need to upgrade my battery as well!
Thanks!
Your presentation is excellent and material is inspiring me to consider getting one...in this video I did not see a later install video on the 12v/USB port system...do you have the brand and/or link to it??
Great video, thanks. How often do you have to charge the lithium battery or do you just leave it connected when you're not using the bike?
Constant maintenance charging decreases overall battery life, battery chemistry isn't helped by being on constant trickle charge. A couple of hours a week will maintain voltage and allow the ups and downs necessary. A battery is a bank - deposit withdraw, deposit withdraw, deposit withdraw.
My understanding is maintenance chargers are not constantly charging. That would be catastrophic. I believe they only provide a light charge once a significant drop in voltage is detected. I'm aware the best way to store lithium for long periods of time is in a balanced state of 50%. Not exactly practical to start your bike at a moment's notice, but it would be a nice feature on a maintenance charger to set a start and end date to hold at 50% (during winter storage), then jump to 100% just in time for spring riding. Maybe it already exists. 🤔🙂
@@KARMAkazeMoto I should have been clearer, my comment was more about the failed battery's life may have prematurely ended due to maintenance charging.
Lithium cells should be cv/cc and I doubt many maintenace chargers have that ability presently. Maybe Antigravity will see it as a possible extension to their product range.
I have a bank of 12v 7Ah batteries connected to a solar set up on my shed roof running lights etc. in there. I've taken a lead off the busbar to a point where I can pop on clips to my bike battery, but in a climate where I have been able to ride throughout winter it's not been needed yet.
Thanks for responding to a comment on a video put up quite a while back 👍
The lithium has more amp hours, usable, than the stock battery. The best agm batteries will only deliver 1/2 the rated amp hrs. Lithium batteries deliver essentially all the rated capacity. So the stock 8 amp hrs. is actually only 4 and the lithium is much closer to the 7.
Very good. Like the new battery and switch controlled accessories should be really nice.
Great work. Loving what you’ve done....
the 12v 8Ah lead-acid battery gives only 96w, half of it is usable, so 48W. The 7A li-ion battery can give all the nominal capacity, so 84w real capacity. In real life, the Li-ion battery you built in lasts much longer than the lead-acid you replaced.
I think your idea of putting tubes of j b weld in is good. I think a strip of foam to get the play out would be a good move. The cable on top if you could make sure it doesn't rub thru the insulation is key. Love the smaller size of the battery and your setup. Now let's ride!!! VAUGHN
I think I will protect that + cable better. Thanks for the encouragement! I'm thinking I could add a little clip to the side of the air box that holds the cable instead of the cable resting on top the negative terminal. Would be a nice way to do it up. And I totally agree, it is time to ride! 😀
@@KARMAkazeMoto Good call. I forgot it was over the negative cable. Let's ride!!! VAUGHN 🤠
looks like that space might fit an innertube. when you pull out the new one you could put the old one back in till you replaced it with a new one again.
Thanks for a great video. i just bought my 2022 Himalayan a couple of weeks ago. Since I am planning a couple of long trips soon I wanted to check with you and see how your Lithium battery is holding up, I will probably change to the lithium after my initial breaking in period. Have you had any problems with the battery so far?
Thanks again for the video.
Enjoy that Himalayan!
My battery is fine, but I'd like to encourage you to go with the ATX-10 model instead of the 7 if you can budget a little more. Either model is linked in the description.
I heard Antigravity was telling people to go with the 10, that the 7 was inadequate. Not sure how that can be since the power output and capacity are equal or greater than the original Himalayan battery. Mine has been fine. Either way, extra power on the 10 means less need for a maintenance charge when parked for longer periods of time, and more starts if the bike ever encounters hard starting.
Aloha!
Sitting on a plane headed to Hawaii right now. 🏝
Thank You, I appreciate the information.
Lithium batteries usually have problem charging in freezing temperatures. You may actually kill battery if you attempt to charge it cold. Has this battery been tested for winter conditions?
Thanks for this video. I just noticed the anti-gravity UK website states that the atz-7 is not suitable for the Himalayan and recommends the atz-10. Any ideas why they go with the 10 amp hour version?
Cost more?
Just kidding. Even on my own video, in the description, I encourage people to get the 10.
Here's the thing, the 7 has worked great for me. Even running grip heaters and charging devices. Still works. But the 10 technically fits the battery box space perfectly, and the added power will limit any rundown battery issues if you're running extra lights and other accessories. It'll last longer when sitting, endure the headlight being left on longer, etc. So the 10 is a good option.
7 works fine, 10 has more amp hours and fits perfect.
Huston, we got a problem...... ;) ))) First a Powerbank, Second, two Terminal on the batterie & then from time time load you batterie. :) Your tool is a good investment. Thumbs up. +Install your Power outlet via the horn ! so, short cabels and goes only with your ignition..... by the way. ;)+
hi Justin sorry to see the damage on your bikes by the quake. minor but heartrending for a guy who loves his bikes. anyway good modification. RE should think of this as an option for us here in India too who live in high altitude low temperatures. where no bike riding during winters.
Thanks Sanjeev. Glad you liked the mod. 👍
The small things for thr bike make a difference to the overall performance of the bike,
store a length of galvanized wire - numerous uses
A perfect companion to the JB Weld, tape and zip ties. Thanks! 👍
@@KARMAkazeMoto heat shrink and a cheap lighter as well, not only for repairs, but the lighter is great for a survival situation as well!
@@Hyperious_in_the_air that's a couple of good ideas. I could definitely see including both those items. Thanks!
Might use the extra space to tuck an extra spark plug in there. Like you idea of the zip ties. They are always in the way. Might also tuck a few bucks in there for those oh crap moments if any occur.
Hi! Sorry about the earthquake :( About battery, Varta is good quality and i dont understand why she drained out in just a few months? Lithium are the future and the new awsome Zontes T310 came with inteligent batterie that you can turn on or switch off. Stay safe! Kind regards from Portugal
Hey, that looks like a nice bike! Never heard of it before. You can tell Zontes really tried hard to give a total, modern package. Pretty cool.
Don't know if you are aware but the antigravity website says the atz7 is not suitable for the himalayan m8? they recommend the atz10
🤭
Interesting. Good info. Mine has been working fine. But in the video description, since the beginning, I have also encouraged people to consider the ATZ10, especially if they plan to run more lighting and accessories, or if they want it to sit longer without a maintenance charge. Let's face it, the cranking amps and amp hours of the ATZ7 are as much or more than the stock Himalayan battery. Antigravity may be pushing the more costly option for profit. Maybe.
Thanks for the great video, very thorough and detailed. I haven't been stranded yet with the OEM battery, but there have been some slow crankings that has me concerned....i'm sure it's death is imminent! Ordered the battery, foam and charger using your links.
Oh wow, that is awesome! Thanks! 😀
And I'm glad you found this useful. So do you have any ideas of what you'll use the extra space for? 🤔
@@KARMAkazeMoto I kind of like the idea of a spare tube, just need to decide if front or rear tube is best. Would kind of like to find a small container to put some miscellaneous things in, some common bolts, and maybe some emergency beer cash!
@@KyleJohnsonMuncie I think you're the first one to say anything about common bolts. That's an excellent idea! Save weight with the lithium battery, then carry some spare fasteners.... and you're still dropping a couple pounds. Perfect idea! 🔩
When i went tender hunting for my bike hit 6 stores before found one that didn't have the the battery cable stolen out of it ! You have one of a kind side cover now , how many people can say " oh that happened when a 7.0 earthquake hit" ! ! !
Yeah, you're right. 😀 pretty unique Himalayan now! Survived a quake. I have to say, I can't believe it didn't fall over. That center stand really keeps it's footing.
Great Video Justin! Very detailed tips and excelent audio and camera ;) Yeah some battery brands are realy bad. Varta should be good but... my experience shows me that japanese brands are very good :) A friend's Yamaha FZ6 battery from 2010 is still going decent and he sometimes leave the bike stored for 3-4 months without charge... Yuasa i think. The Himalyan looks great and the new battery is a great upgrade ;) Earthquake? Ouch... Not as bad as the one in 2018 i hope. Hope everyone is ok :) Ride Safe!
Thanks, Mr Lone Wolf. 😉
My Bandit battery is similar to your friend's FZ6. It can sit for months, and it is at least 10 years old. Really impressive. Haven't looked at the brand yet, because I've never pulled it out since owning the bike. No need. 🙂
I was actually talking about that 2018 quake. I hadn't ever shown the damage until just now.
Safe riding for you as well!
Yep same here, I have an '06 Goldwing that has the Yuasa battery in it. Oops, it might be the original so I'd better get that checked out! But it keeps starting up its behemoth 1800cc 6 cyl. engine, so why possibly spoil a good thing? 😁
@@Believe231 there's something really satisfying about a product that gives continued use well beyond expectation.
Hi Justin, wanted to check how the new battery is working? Had a question - did you change the rectifier-regulator unit to accommodate the lithium battery or does the existing one work fine? I am thinking of switching to lithium battery on my Himalayan too. Would appreciate your feedback. Thanks for your videos and safe riding.
A powerhub fuse box maybe good down the side of the battery if your hooking more stuff up
That would make a lot of sense. And I do have a couple more accessories to install such as heated grips. Good idea Cameron. 👍
Nice little survival kit in there would be good
Agreed, especially since it's not the sort of place you want items that should be easily or quickly accessible. Survival gear would be a rare thing to need.
It doesnt have a choke its fuel injected . That leaver is to enrich the mixture at high altitude like in the Himalayas etc
I want to make sure some readers don't get confused. That lever is in fact referred to as a choke in the Himalayan owners manual. It's possible the manual is written this way for the US market. While it may not mechanically function the exact same way as some old styles of carb chokes, the end result of enriching fuel is the same (you are quite right), to help with cold starts. At high altitude you often get colder weather so it would seem the choke is needed more often. But in general at high altitude a bike needs less fuel while riding, not enriched, to run properly due to the fact that there is less oxygen. Again, for other reader's sake, at low altitude, with more oxygen, we need more fuel for a proper mixture. High altitude with less oxygen we need less fuel for a proper mixture. This particular fuel injected bike does in fact have a choke. You'd think the temp sensors would allow the ECU to automatically adjust fuel delivery for cold starting, but for some reason you need to pull the choke lever manually. I thought it was strange too.
Hi Justin it's 2024. Can we get an update on the lithium battery? How was the battery? Did it work well and for how long?
Have you seen the Powertronic ECU upgrade for the Himalayan check out itchy boots motovlogger channel looks like a really decent upgrade ?
Psst... I have one ready to install. But don'tell anyone. 😉
I think it's a superb upgrade for this bike I hear good reports about it 👍
I'm hopeful for at least noticeable results.
I'm *really* interested in hearing your results with this. Itchy Boots has steadfastly refused to talk about her PowerTronic ECU ever since the controversy hit after she raved about it, although its M1/M2 switch is still in place.
Wow I missed all that. I remember she was impressed with it, but what happened after that?
QUESTION for all --When you buy a new battery how does the vehicle know what type it is? - ie, lead acid or lithium etc,etc why do we need a charger that does all types of battery's ? when the vehicle only has the one type of charger it comes with.
It sure doesn't seem to make any sense, does it? My understanding is the voltage regulator in the bike is an important factor. The battery doesn't get charged at all, basically, if the regulator is getting a "topped off" voltage signal. Also on the bike there's nothing special happening with regard to the current and rate of charge, not to mention the bike is creating less current to begin with compared to what you could draw from a 110-120v outlet. A battery charger on the other hand must control/limit a higher rate of current, and smart chargers will charge at the quickest yet safest rate depending on the type of battery. Plus, with the greater potential for a lithium battery firebomb, I believe safety is one aspect of the "special" chargers.
I'm no expert and I assume someone will correct me where I'm a little off course. Just sharing things I've read. It's a really good question. 🙂👍
@@KARMAkazeMoto -- Its food for thought ,I live in Australia and asked the question of a battery supplier here and he doesn't have an answer, but as long as it charges from the bike it should be good to go ( just saying ) - love your vids very informative I have a BMW r1200 rt for sale and am looking at a Himalayan to replace it , stay upright Regards GH
Hey great videos. Have you installed the 3 in 1 charging unit yet? Any chance of a link? Thanks again
Can the bikes charging system keep up with all those charging devices?
Yes. I've had my heated grips running along with charging a phone and camera all at once.
Sweet video. Good angles with wonderful verbal explanation. Thanks
My RE varta lasted 6 months.. pathetic! 120cca reading 72..lasted 3 days. Tried to get one through the dealer but too time consuming.. so I ordered a yuasa ytx9.. 235 cca was the best I could find.. right choice, or should I have gone lithium?
Yuasa batteries are known for lasting a long time with minimal attention, so I think it's a fine choice I just like the lithium option for weight savings and the auto-off feature if it starts to get worn down. Nice, but not necessary.
Good to hear. Thanks Justin! Keep up the great work. 😁
I really liked.
The video is 4 years old, can you give more information about the durability?
I'm from Brazil, I believe I don't have this battery here, I'll have to import it.
Hello. I am still using the same battery I installed 4 years ago. I have not had any problems. You should know that it will need to be kept charged at least every couple of months. You should plan to have a lithium maintenance charger and just keep it plugged in every time you park for more than a week. With the maintenance charger I have kept my battery working perfectly. I would highly recommend you purchase the larger capacity battery which is linked in the video description. Again, my battery has been fine, but I think it is safer and a better value to have the larger battery.
Nice, that is 10mA of draw. For better results it is probably best to tie those accessories to a relay that is activated when the key is in the ON position. That would remove that bit of a drain.
You're 100% on the money with that idea. And the relay and accessory connections could be in the extra space. 🤔🙂👍
I've been thinking of a similar setup so the the headlight only comes on when the engine is running, relay powered by magneto instead of the key. You think that would make sense? Of course, with the auto cutoff on the battery I don't have a worry of the headlight draining the battery, but still.
@@KARMAkazeMoto Good idea, it would be nice to have it turn on like that. I cant think of a way to achieve it other than using an oil pressure switch. The magneto idea is also interesting and maybe some type of voltage controlled switch but that may leave you in the dark whenever there is a problem with the charging system. I am waiting to perform the first service on my bike. I intend to use the relay trick for my USB ports up on front. I also have an auxiliary light on front to help with the lack of high beam on my Himalayan. That one, I hope to connect to the high beam line going to the headlamp now. Maybe using a relay of some sort as well. Good deal man, I like these videos. Nice to see real life dealings with this wonderful and capable affordable bike :-)
@@sampoteste my gears are turning now. ⚙⚙⚙ 🙂
Just curious, why don't you have a highbeam?
@@KARMAkazeMoto I do have a high beam but it is not that great. The small position lamp inside the main lamp affects the projected light and the resulting beam is not a full beam. I wanted to have some more light closer in front of the bike to better see where I am going at night. Good deal bro. When I get to do mine I will try to post a video as well.
@@sampoteste I know what you mean. Feel free to link to your video in a comment here. I'll be interested to see the improvement and others might as well.
So you got a special charger for lithium but what about the Enfield charging system? How is that going to work with a lithium battery? With the Enfield being kind of basic girl maybe we should call it old-fashioned I'm thinking it's not designed for lithium? I guess we'll just have to see how it works out for you.
It works perfect. Motorcycle chargers are basically all the same and there is something about them and the voltage regulator that prevents damage to the lithium battery. I just rode to the Arctic Ocean and back (2,000 miles) and the lithium batteries did great.
Probably the BMS in the battery takes care it
Thanks for your videos, very helpful and informative. Have you had any issues with the lithium battery you installed?...I recently installed ATZ-7's in both my and my wife's 2021's (using your links). Neither one of them seem to be holding their charges -- any ideas?
First, thank you for using the links!
I haven't had any problem like what you're describing with these lithium batteries in my Himalayan. I really hate to hear that someone is having problems with something that I recommended, but again that's not happening to me. Do you have some sort of accessories that are causing a constant drain? In the earlier part of this video I went through checking to see if there was any draw on the battery. That's really the only thing I can think of. I keep mine on a maintenance charger. That's been keeping the battery charged through our long winter in Alaska. But I don't need that if the bike is just sitting for a couple weeks. And I'm using an appropriate lithium charger.
So how quickly are they losing charge? Overnight, or within a couple of weeks?
@@KARMAkazeMoto Thanks for the quick response! I was able to cross check another battery charger and it looks like I have a bad charger...makes the most sense since the bikes and batteries are both new and having the same issue with the same charger.
@@paulbuschman8318 glad you got it sorted out. That makes sense. Enjoy your summer! (Assuming you're in the Northern Hemisphere.)
Hi Justin. I just got my Himalayan delivered and have ridden a meagre 150kms. I've noticed an issue with the bike - where the bike switches off all by itself at standstill or when I engage first gear to make a move in traffic. Have you faced this issue - where the bike switches off randomly and if yes, request for your help in letting me know how this can be fixed. I am not sure if it would be the ECU issue or an issue with the side stand sensor.
When this happens are you having to turn the key off and back on, or can you just hit the start button and fire it back up?
A few times I have experienced stalls when coming to a stop (not when taking off from a stop). You're riding along, then cut the throttle, and by the time you come to a stop... it stalls. I'm not talking much about it because I need to do my maintenance/service. Until then I don't know if the issue is my own fault. I was told by another Himalayan owner that excessive fuel or pressure in the evap system has been an issue for some people. He disconnected the tube connecting the evap can (black box under the engine) to the intake and capped it off. He said that took care of it. To me that is not a fix, just a good way to diagnose the issue. Please let me know what you discover.
@@KARMAkazeMoto Not trying to interrupt but if the Himalayan has a sidestand switch cutoff I have seen other bikes have this problem where it gets loose and sags during a bump or some such and cuts off the engine, not even sure there is one, just a thought. Oh, I forgot to mention originally that I read of very similar symptoms for another fellow and he traced a loose connection from his kill switch harness to the fuse box, didn't say exactly where he found it but it solved his issue, hope this helps.
Ended up being that EVAP canister return line. I have a feeling that if it just ran to the airbox, or perhaps if it were connected to the intake before the trottle valve instead of after, this would never happen. But something is going on. The engine is obviously gulping down gases or something (a bit of water?) from the EVAP. I disconnected it, capped the port, and no more stall.
@@KARMAkazeMoto This is exactly the problem. Especially here in India. The bike delivery executive instructed me not to fill the fill the fuel tank even upto the mark that they have provided inside the tank, because due to the heat here, that would just create more pressure inside the tank and the excess gas had no place to escape because the canister was full. Then why even provide a 15 liter tank that one cannot use? Unfortunately there is no one here who has the knowledge of getting rid of the canister. The method I've found out is that, when I've parked the bike out in the sun, I open the fuel cap, let the gases escape, and then start. The bike hasn't stalled after doing this.
How is the Battery working now, after more and year 18/10/2020 thanks ?
The battery is still the same as when I first installed it. There's been a couple times where I allowed it to drain down and remain in a low state of charge for a lengthy period of time. I was able to charge it back up and it still starts the bike. Anytime someone asks about it I do encourage them to consider the larger model which is the number 10 versus the number 7 which I have. There's a link to that number 10 in the description of the battery installation video. That one fits the battery box and it'll give people even longer lasting energy so you'd be even less likely to drain the battery down, and I suspect it would be a better choice if you were going to be running fog lights or additional accessories along with your heated grips, etc. I ran my heated grips for hours of riding with my smaller lithium battery and never had a problem. I also was able to start my bike just fine on mornings that were icy.
8:20 I dont know what you did there. you completed the Auxillary ckt with the battery. But not thorough the Multimeter? so....
May be i missed if you did any other changes to the connection.
can you explain how did you decide the Aux draw is 0.001A?
The battery has been working good? No problem with charging ? When are you going to finish the ride to the north slope?
I just recently put this exact battery in my Himalayan and now it won't charge. The crazy thing is, my friend got the same battery and now his Himalayan is doing the same thing as mine. I put a different battery in and it will slowly die when riding. Not sure if it was the battery or not that caused both bikes to go crazy. 🤷
If you shoot me your phone # using Instagram I can give you a ring back. Not sure I'll be able to help, but I do have a couple questions for you.
Why do you need a charger for lithium? Do you just need it for the first charge up
Very informative, thanks!
My pleasure!
Great video as always! My OEM Varta VTX9 battery died on me three months after purchase and that was last summer. Since then I’ve heard of several other US Himalayans suffers the same fate. Hope RE takes note and discontinues this particular battery make/model in their bikes stateside. I ended up replacing mine with another AGM battery but your idea of using a lithium battery is awesome. Curious to know how it works out on the Himalayan in the longer term. Thanks again for a very informative video!
Thanks! You too? I hope you got a new battery under warranty. I didn't bother checking on that, but I should have just to get a new one... for my ATV. 😀
I hope the Lithium holds up. Only time will tell.
Good to hear from you again. From NY right? Can't quite remember. Ride safe!
KARMAkaze Moto I wish! It was like pulling teeth with my dealer and RE, they wanted me to bring the bike in an hour away even though I had the battery load tested and determined there was no parasitic drain. In the end I just bought my own battery and didn’t bother dealing with the warranty negotiations anymore. There have been a few more complaints about the Varta batteries on the Himalayan so I’m hoping they start to at least honor the warranty on these.
And yes, from western NY :)
Sorry to hear that. Yup, it's sounding like a consistent problem. With new batteries now we're all testing if they'll suffer the same fate (perhaps a bike charging problem) or prove that the issue was the Varta all along. I'm hoping for the later.
Did you initiate that FB Himalayan owners page, or just a member?
Lithium amp hours are more useful they charge and discharge faster also.