FRS / BRZ / Toyota GT86 Speakers Upgrade FULL INSTALL
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 15 авг 2017
- This episode shows how to install speakers on your 2013 Toyota 86 / FRS / BRZ for dirt cheap! No adapters needed, no brackets needed. Enjoy, subscribe and like for more content. Lets see if we can hit 300subs by the end of this month!
★Purchase Hats - T-Shirts HERE★
www.surrealtunermerch.com
★Product Links - HERE★
4" POLK AUDIO
www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...
6" POLK AUDIO
www.ebay.com/itm/2-Polk-Audio-...
★PREVIOUS VIDEO★
• CARBON FIBER ROOF ON -...
★ Equipment ★
Panasonic Lumix G7
amzn.to/2pzoJwo
Joby GorillaPod w/Ball Head
amzn.to/2p1Uvpz
SD Card
amzn.to/2nKW8rC
Rode Micro Microphone
amzn.to/2ox2wkY
★★VLOG CHANNEL ★★
ruclips.net/channel/UC2ng...
★ Music ★
Outro: WiDE AWAKE - Love Me (feat. Jacob Banks)
• WiDE AWAKE - Love Me (...
/ wewideawake
Track: NIVIRO - The Floor Is Lava [NCS Release]
Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.
Watch: • NIVIRO - The Floor Is ...
Free Download / Stream: ncs.io/TheFloorIsLavaYO
★ DISCLAIMER ★ This video and description contains affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission. This help support the channel and allows us to continue to make videos like this. Thank you for the support! 
Развлечения
![Front Speaker Replacement [GR86·BRZ]](/img/1.gif)
who ever finds this video in the future or is currently watching like myself, I hope you have more sense than them. This is a prime example of how not to install speakers in a car. They make kits for this and if you buy through crutchfield you can usually get them free with purchase of certain speakers.
@@wza223-fo3mcnah they make adapter brackets that are vehicle specific so you don’t hack up the factory parts.. where did you read OEM+
“Probably gonna be amazing sound but thats not what we’re here for”
I walked into Fry's electronics and saw these speakers. And I wasn't sure if there was going to be a video for this.
Clutch video
The hard work paid off!👏🏽👏🏽
Is it okay to just use 6.5 inch for the doors & leave the rest as stock ? Or should I purchase the 4 inches for the front & back too?
i got coaxial speakers (Rockfords) for the dash speakers and there's distortion on the high end any reasons why...
*Alright well I changed all my interior speakers, did not touch the tweeter in the dash at all but I’m getting no sound out of my door speakers? Anyone else had this issue and how do did you fix it.. Thanks!*
If only I had a dollar for every mention of fibreglass reinforced plastic 😂😂
Could anyone tell me the size for the spaker for the front and back
Thanks for the intro. Fooled me good
Hey i came from the fan mail vidoe. New sub
Riced_ Wagon thanks bro welcome to the channel ;-) enjoy the vids man
what the hell are those speakers by the front windshield?
does this car not have tweeters connected to the speakers in the door?
Anyone know what size screws mount the rear speakers
How exactly are your fronts fitted???
Great video
just like the Celica MK 7 :) I had to get mounts for mine
How did you fit the front dash 4in speakers? Mine is too tall the a/c vent is in the way
Same
Do the aftermarket speaker sounds different to the stock ones? do you recommend to replace only one side of the speaker, cuz mine have probs on the left, so planing to only replace the left one.
hey I saw you guys used a larger speaker for the dash so you don't have to worry about the stupid housing. can you do the same thing to the door speakers? taking this housings is a pain
i can but you would have to cut up the housing pretty well and you dont wanna do that because the door speakers actually get base and the tweeter on top does not give base so it will not move around. If you do that for door speakers the base will not be contained and it may rattle and wont sound good. So i wouldnt suggest doing that unless your making a custom inclosure with fiberglass or something
sounds like another pain
Be it a dedicated woofer or 2 / 3-way full range speaker .... all will send bass "not base" to the area behind it as well as infront The drivers cone simply vibrates causing sound pressure on both sides of the cone material. Only on a 2 / 3-way speaker will it's small mid and or tweeter drivers only direct sound outward into the vehicles cabin.
There are two drivers in each speaker. Did you check the ohm load for the new setup? That stock amp is going to take a dump quick.
He ripped out the 2ohm door mini woofer/subwoofers for 8 ohm coaxial tweeter/woofers. Increasing the resistance isn't going to cook the amp but it will reduce the current and overall wattage output. The 4x higher resistance will take the amp out of efficiency range effectively making more heat and less sound. I'm guessing he had a door rattle problem that was preventing him getting into the sweet spot of the amp. The stock system doesn't sound bad for the price point on the FRS as they used the Scion unit which was put in all Scions and marketed to young people. Its not great of course, it sounds like a boombox of that era - Punchy but no low rumble as the 2ohm woofers are small and short throw.
x2 speed recommended...how's it doing a year+ later? do you still have the car? any changes or upgrades to the audio since this?
i will be posting a video and updating everyone next week and im back at it on the channel
Replaced all mine with nice 6.5" Kickers. Used aluminium brackets bolted to stock rear brackets to fit 6.5"s in the rear as well. Have them running off an android head unit to a Pioneer 5 channel amp pushing 75W RMS to each corner and 600 RMS to an 8" Kicker Comp C in a truck sub box in the trunk. Dash corner 3.5"s are running off the head unit's built in amp @ 45W RMS a piece. Had a 12" 1000W RMS Kicker sub but it was taking the entire trunk up so ditched that. It's now my home theater sub :D
Had it all installed for a year now. Amp wired with eBay wiring kit to battery, all other wiring is stock. Didn't replace speaker wires at all. Only sub has beefy wiring. Did this so when I sell the car I can swap back to stock speakers. Even with the small wiring the car has, I routinely blast music for hours at a time and the system has been perfect. Did have to correct a lot of loose stuff behind trim in doors and such that was rattling with bass though.
Hey, found your video very helpful, until I popped off the tweeter cover and found no midrange just a tweeter......I have a base model Gt
Martin Saheicha lol
Nice video, really enjoyed it. Did you use the factory amp with these speakers? Is the bass response much better than standard?
Simon Lam yes used eveything stock and base is less I would say it’s more mid and highs huge improvement. We are adding a sub so wanted to have super Krisp sound first
id say better and cleaner
I am going to write the things I consider would be good to know that are not mentioned here or things I learned after doing this install the exact same way. First I would’ve gotten the 3.5” speakers. The windshield speakers simply don’t fit, you are left half inch of unscrewed portion and you have to do a bunch of fiddling around to get it to work, you can, but it’s just too much imo. Next, modifying the mount for the rear speaker was just crazy. If I was completely into this speakers, I would probably buy a mount which can probably fit, since there’s a lot of space and then just cut the round metal out with my hand and use the leftovers just to attach the mount to the holes instead of cutting the round piece, since that was a dangerous trick that can harm you, and this is stereo install not beam mounting for a building. Finally, getting a mount for the 6” instead of reusing the current ones and installing in “the lip”. Getting the mounts for the rear and 6” would drive up the cost at most $50, but will save you a couple of hours and will make this installation easier, and safer as doing the lip and the rear mount requieres skill and tools that can easily hurt you if you are not an avid tool user. It would have been cool seeing how they installed the windshield speakers. Other than that great seat of speakers and great video. Thanks!
hey nice video
What is the definition of 'professional' these days?
Somebody who would've made deadend, wooden adapter plates for the front doors for sure...... I've only watched 10 minutes of the video so far and I've been gritting my teeth the whole time......
thanks
They say they know what there doing but I have to disagree .. first off he said the new speakers will be louder than the factory ones...wrong! You have a factory radio and factory amp that puts out around 100w or so , so even if you put in 500w speakers they still only gonna put out whatever your factory amp or head unit puts out which is about 100w give or take .. They system will sound BETTER and CLEANER but it's definitely not louder .. Next mistake was wiring the new speakers .. you never tested the polarity of the speakers an you just assumed one color was positive an other color negative ... I been doing installs professionally over 20 years an experience tells me to always check speaker polarity because red is not always positive and black isn't always negative .. also manufactures often make mistakes so if you have say a 2015 BRZ for example an your speaker colors for example are red positive and black negative in your right front door...doesn't mean the next 2015 BRZ colors will be the same..the same color wires may be there but polarity could be backwards or the next 2015 BRZ colors in that same door might not be red and black.. I've come across it 100s of times.. always check speaker polarity , never assume anything in car wiring! Lastly you used hot glue to seal the speaker to the ring, an you used thin tiny screws to mount them on a thin tiny lip inside the housing.... NO ..hot glue will eventually break up An crack , An those tiny screws on that thin lip will also eventually crack An break from vibration .. mounting brackets are cheap af , so is abs plastic..hell a piece of plywood is only 7 bucks an would have worked better. As a pro installer it kills me seeing RUclips videos on how to do car audio by ppl who don't know what they doing.. it's sad that ppl watch videos made by ppl that don't know what there doing smh .
Michael Palmisano since you so pro you should come install em yeh. I’m posting what I did if anyone wants to fallow it’s on them. I’m just sharing my experience and what I did to make it work. All the speakers are working perfect so far and it’s been almost a year. On that note I’m out
Surreal Ent in the beginning of the video when u we're useing a screw driver to pull panels you said you a pro.. an I get u sharing what u did to make it work but u making it sound like this is how it's done, you didn't mention at any point that this is how u made it work.. an yes your system might work but it doesn't mean it's done correctly .. even if you wired your speakers out of polarity they will still work . I'm not disputing your wiring is right I'm saying if you gonna make a video on an install you should know what your doing an do it properly so ppl get the right info.. I guess you don't care if ppl follow ur directions an they end up blowing there brand new speakers huh? Also video clearly says (do what we say , not what we do) well u doing exactly what u saying ur doing , it's contradicting no. An I'd be happy to do the installs, send em my way an the jobs will be done right .
Wattage isn't the only only factor when determining "loudness", impedance and speaker sensitivity are big factors too. A speaker with equal impedance and power handling of the stock speaker can be "louder" if it has a greater sensitivity.
very good to know thanks for that update
Alex Kalicharan incorrect... it will not be louder unless you upgrade the source ... if you have a 100w radio for example and install 4 300w speakers you still only gonna get 100w unless you add an amp.. sensitivity weather higher or lower does not make anything louder, it simply gives a cleaner or worse sound.. impedance is also not volume , same rule applies you have 100w radio it's not gonna matter if you wire your 300w speaker to 1. 2 .3.4 .8 ohms you still only getting 100w not matter how you wire it unless you add an amp to power it. Also just because a speaker says it's 100w rms and 150 peak doesn't mean it actually hits those numbers
What size is the rear speakers ? 4inch?
Stock size is 3.5”. He just put 4” and made it fit.
Pretty sure he has no idea how speakers work 😂
How many ohms are the polk speakers?
Gatlin Garage I have the links in the description to the speakers feel free to check them out
They are 4 ohm, you cant put 4 ohm speakers in with a 2 ohm sterio. It will bog down the system and sound like crap. I have a 04 mazda6 with bose and its 2 ohm. You have to use 2 ohm with factory stereo system.
Gatlin Garage the stock head unit is very soon coming out hint reason we went with those speakers
The car needs 2way speakers 🔊
Watching him ruin that speaker made me cringe so hard
Damm. That's sucks that these cars come with such bad speakers.
Denten is not a word......
Please tell me your pinky fingernail isnt that long for the reason I think it is lmao
This is an ad for Dumb & Dumber car audio. Always make sure you pull a razor knife towards your thumb. I wouldn’t let these guys clean the bake dust of my wheels.
I didn’t know speakers had the ability to be gay 😂
"I'm a professional" 😂
If you Play 40 hz through a door speaker, you're about to have problems. Lol at LEAST put a passive crossover on em!!!
I am literally speechless, I don't know what to comment first... So, you took out and destroyed a fully capable and functional 2-ohm woofers from the doors to replace them with 4-ohm coax-speakers (?!?!?!?!?!?). Then you took out fully capable and functional mids from the dashboard to replace them with 4-inch coax-speakers, probably reconnecting the factory tweeter (otherwise new speakers would not be working). So, what we have there is a treble overload from two different tweeters. Cherry on top, you went the full length to replaced the rear-panel factory mids, which were LITERALLY installed in the air (just hanging there without a cabin whatsoever) with some other 4-inch coax-speakers (?!?!?!?!?!) and zero contribution to the sound-system performance.
So, you added treble literally EVERYWHERE (killing every last shred of stereo-imaging) and you are down in mid-bass and bass (since the woofer in the doors in 4-ohm, so it's weaker compared to the 2-ohm factory woofer you destroyed).
Well done, gentlemen, I love vanity!
...in the meantime all this car needs is better amplification.
Not sponsored by these guys at all, but if you're looking for a more professional video in regards to this. ruclips.net/video/yUE3GdqHSkE/видео.html
0:26 You really don't have any business calling the speakers gay while you have that moustache, that necklace and that shirt... not that there's anything wrong with that...
How not to make it video
that background probably not was funny
I've never seen a gay speaker. Does it have less rights than the other speakers?
Вот они ушлепки. Напихали коаксиалов во все дырки, угробили сцену, получили кучу высоких и думают, что звук стал чище. Лучше бы дырки в дверях заклеили на сток динамиках
What a piece of shit .... coax speaker in door and on panel? Hotglue a speaker in a black car (you have no sun there, right?). No need for damping material?
We used hot glue gun to make it alittle bit stronger lol otherwise the speakers are mounted with 4 screws on each and they sounds great by the way. Trust me not my first time installing speakers haha
Surreal Ent hotglue melt at which temperature? The worst are the coax in the door. Super sensless and will end in unnatural listening experience, since there are two different sources for tweeters for each side.
The only thing that is really good, the reusage of the OEM midsub frame.
Thanks for the tip now i know bud