If you enjoyed the video, please press the *like button* 👍 Your support is *greatly appreciated* . *There are Links* in the video description for all the parts used in the video. I also have a *TWEETER upgrade* video here: ruclips.net/video/EG8nxTCzVa0/видео.html *REAR SPEAKERS upgrade* : ruclips.net/video/oL5zZH09VuA/видео.html and *STEREO Upgrade* : ruclips.net/video/JBnRhJJNNAE/видео.html If you enjoyed the video, please give it a *thumbs up* 👍. Your support helps me create more content and is *greatly appreciated* . If you have any *questions* , *comments* , or *suggestions* for future videos, feel free to leave them below. I love hearing from you and look forward to your *feedback* !
I am a professional stereo installer for 29 years, and i have to say, you did i better job than most installers. The extra baffles, foam, and heat shrink, most installers do not use. Those speakers probably sounded better than they normally would. Excellent work and great video !!!
Thank you! Yes they do sound quite good for a budget speaker. I'm really enjoying listening to them. I've done installs without the extras on all my previous cars, and the sound was never that great, even with expensive speakers. That's what motivated me to do a better job this time, and get the full potential of the speaker. A little extra $$ but totally worth it!
Hi I need advice. I had upgraded the speakers in my car everything was fine till recently I noticed it cutting out or crackling. So I redid the wiring like he did in the video and it didn't work got not sound from my front right speaker. Then tried using terminal block with a solid connection but all i get from my headunit is a pop through the front right and then nothing but sound out all my other speakers. What could it be? I also noticed when I switch my car on theirs a buzz in my dashboard speaker.
Hands-down one of the best video tutorials I've seen for a task that non-car or non-electrical people (like me) find daunting. My front left speaker has been cutting in and out for a few months, before shutting off completely a few weeks ago. You made it so easy to diagnose the same wire corrosion on my speaker in my 2015 Corolla, and replace the issue with better sounding speakers this past weekend. Thank you for taking the time to explain the steps so clearly, and for making this video. I changed out my speakers by myself for less than half of what a nearby car audio shop quoted me, and I bet my speaker setup also sounds better because of the added accessories like the Stringer Fastrings and NVX baffles. Kudos to you!
I agree, having the "needed tools" and list of things to buy was very handy. So many videos I watch from car guys and they assume you have a loaded snap-on toolbox and all the grease and oils and cleaners and everything already on hand, so you get halfway thru a job and realize "Oh I need this special lubricant for my brake pins? Well now I need get someone to give me a ride to AutoZone before the close"
As a past technical instructor, I must commend you on a very thorough solution to what is quite apparently an epidemic problem with Corolla's of this vintage. I've been tolerating intermittent function of my front speakers for several years in my 2015 Corolla LE-ECO. Today, I popped off the door panel to investigate (after stumbling onto your video). As soon as I touched the positive wire at the speaker harness connector, it fell right off. I've temporarily "rigged" it using a couple of female ECM terminals crimped to speaker wire leads. Since I could not reuse the OEM harness connector, the terminals are delicately placed into the speaker connector and said connector filled with RTV. This'll get me by until my new speakers and related components arrive (per the links that you so generously provided). Thank you for saving me lots of time and frustration Clever Fix...bravo!
Thanks a lot for the comment! Really appreciated. I couldn't tolerate it for long, it was so annoying. I'm really enjoying the better sound too, it makes driving a lot more pleasant. Hope the RTV holds long enough.. I was going to try to solder directly to the spades on the speaker side once it stopped working a second time, but I gave up.. Unless the connection is VERY secure, it will get lost again. In the video where I used a butt connector to the aluminum wire, one side gave up after a while. All I had to do was squeeze it real tight, and it has been perfect since, but it's that sensitive to moisture. Had I known, I would've used adhesive lined marine grade heatshrink... That's what I am using from now on for everything. This is a good reminder for me to add a link to it in the description as well. Enjoy the new speakers once you put them in!
@@CleverFix Luckily the RTV only needs to hold up a few more days until all of the speaker installation supplies arrive and then it gets ripped out along with the lousy factory speakers. I will be using heat shrink tubing very liberally in my installation, including around the body of the female push connectors at the new speaker blade terminals. Factory Toyota window regulators seem to last forever, so I'm hoping this will be the last time I have to yank the door panels for as long as I own the car!
The driver side door speaker was cutting out. I did this install using exactly what was used in this video and LOVE it. Thank you for the awesome video.
Thank so much for sharing this how to video. You made it look so easy, the added steps to make it sound better is a great idea. More power to you and your channel.
Thanks for the video! I lost the front driver’s side speaker in my ‘15 Corolla and found your DIY fix video. But then stumbled on your front speaker upgrade video and it made more sense to just replace them, rather than to fix the poor quality factory ones. I ordered the parts through your links, and followed your video step by step. What a difference even while keeping the stock head unit, I’m very pleased. I will be tackling the rear speakers next, while following your other video, thanks again!!😊👍
Awesome, thanks for the support, it's appreciated ! Check out the tweeter video too, it makes a pretty good difference as well.. not as big as the speakers though, but I'm very happy after upgrading them. I have a new Pioneer stereo unit here that I'll be installing when the weather warms up. I'm expecting a huge improvement once I put it in. It was recommended by a viewer.
@@CleverFix Please record and make a video of the new head unit install please, I am definitely interested in this. Are you going to do the install with steering wheel controls and back up camera capabilities? Apple Car Play or Android too perhaps? I’m doing the rear speaker install this weekend, is the rear seat backrest removal absolutely necessary, or is it just easier to work around with them removed? It doesn’t look too terribly difficult to remove them, just a few more extra steps. I probably will do it👍
@@kevmo919 I will do the install video once I get it done for sure. Yes, steering controls and backup camera will remain, I don't want to lose those, and yes the unit has both Apple car play and Android capabilities. Unfortunately I couldn't find a plug and play solution , so the Crux SWRTY61N adapter has to be connected to the Pioneer Head unit with some soldering. The connectors on the car plug into the SWRTY though, so soldering can be done ahead of time, and then just plug it into the car. I'm still a bit hesitant about giving out wire colors to connect, I don't want someone connecting the wrong wires by mistake, especially if the manufacturer changes the colors on later models. Maybe I will just show the manual for the SWRTY, and for the Pioneer, and mention which wires need to be connected together for it to work. The SWRTY has the backup camera jack, and steering wheel control jack, so it does both, plus the Toyota plugs go into it, so it's really useful. As for the rear seats, I had to film it, and to do that, removing the seats made it way easier.. I don't fit well in there with the seat folded, I tried it and I thought it would be fine, but it was very cramped.
@@CleverFix Awesome, thanks for the information. I look forward to the new head unit video👍👍 I will try the rear speaker install without removing the rear backrests, but will be prepared to do so if I feel it’ll be easier too😏
Thanks for sharing this video! Just upgraded the front speakers of my 2017 corolla to 6.5" kicker speakers. You saved me alot of time and frustration. And the sound clarity is so much better!
Awesome 👍 Glad to hear! I'm working on a stereo upgrade video right now, which will be coming soon😊. I don't have it in yet, but I know it will improve the sound quality even more.
Thanks for the video. I was watching your other video on fixing the bad speaker wires but then I saw this and decided that if I'm going to rip into the door and work on the speakers anyway, I may as well upgrade my sound while I'm at it.
i installed my side, rear, and tweeter speakers this weekend. couldn't have done it without your videos. thank you so much! i'd still love to see a detailed video of the microphone installation for the touch screen. my audio upgrade is nearly complete👍
That's awesome, you should have really great sound now!! Check the A-pillar video: ruclips.net/video/bDzc7cpNY7I/видео.html once the a-pillar is removed, it's very easy to install the microphone. I double side sticked it on the windershield at the top, then push the wire under the headliner to hide it, and down the a-pillar. I used electrical tape to tape it to the existing wires going through the a-pillar, to keep it away from the airbag. Then I opened the left side cover of the dash, and routed the wire across to the middle, and use some zip ties to hold it in place. It's very simple.. the weather is too terrible now to do any filming.. it has been raining a lot, and cold.. so I haven't been able to do anything unfortunately. Thanks for the comment and watching!
@@CleverFix yup, especially after a touch screen that didn't work and blown rear speakers. It sounds great! I'll give that a try. Thanks again and stay warm!
You should upgrade the amplification part, the factory speaker may have an higher efficiency with the light paper cone, the new ones could sound more quiet without a proper amplifier
Thanks for the detailed guide and time put into this. Fellow Corolla owners appreciate your time and effort. If you were simply trying to replace the speakers as they broken for a second time after Toyota fixed them once and keep costs low since Ed Sheeran and kids sings sound the same in your wife’s car could you leave out any of your build (ie the baffles) to cut costs? Thanks
Sure, just get the cheapest speakers, brackets, and some speaker tape. Baffles and foam are optional.. even speaker tape can be omitted.. and just use the screws that come with the bracket.
Excellent video i installed these same speakers back in april 2021 with a hidden spare tyre sub and it made a night and day difference with the sound quality
@@CleverFix and i 've even gotten a few compliments on how good it sounds but i'm thinking of selling it to get the jbl basspro hub, i went with the rockville model
Looks like the rubber baffle takes care of everything, no need for the foam tape or the stinger foam kit. Correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks for the video. Very informative. ❤
I was thinking about this, particularly going with no stinger foam since the baffle has both the foam and the baffle itself to reduce vibration. How did it turn out for you?
Holding off, waiting for this cold weather to subside will get them. I have everything installation related sitting on the workbench. I got a 70 Mustang hogging space in the garage❤. I can’t fit my corolla in there.
Is there any reason you didnt use the grills that came with the speakers? Great work on the videos keep up the good work I bought almost everything on this and your front speakers list!😀
@siddharthkolap7143 Yes I upgraded from the old radio. I think it's worth it if you want to get the most out of your new speakers and its nice to have bluetooth as well. A video that was really helpful was called 2009 - 2013 Toyota Corolla Radio Install by Provo Beast. It has a few links for some parts you'll need like a wiring harness and dash kit. The radio I ended up using was the Kenwood DPX504BT which I'm really happy with but there are alot of good options out there. Hope this helps
You replaced component speaker with coaxial one. Is this on purpose? Does the car have tweeters in the A pillar? My understanding is that if there is separate tweeter, then it's better to stick with component speakers, as then the woofer is getting signal with high tones already filtered by cars crossover.
will that tweeter from the coaxial speaker give extra high pit to the sock tweeter? I am planning to replace my front door speakers but it's component speaker. I am stuck with how to mount the cross over. Or I should go for coaxial set to make life easier?
I thought that changing the OEM speakers in a car doesn't give much improvement, if any at all, because you are still using the OEM head unit. I was told that changing out the stock head unit will give the most increase in performance per dollar because an aftermarket head unit will have a better internal amplifier. Like on my FJ cruiser, I swapped out the head unit and the OEM speakers had a significant boost in performance. Guys told me that swapping out the speakers would not do much unless I also installed an aftermarket amplifier.
Every part you upgrade will give an improvement. If you upgrade the stereo, you'll get a huge improvement, and speakers will be another huge improvement. You can do either one, or both. Doing both will be the best. I've done this many times.. speakers and stereo, or stereo followed by speakers. There is a noticeable improvement with either upgrade. A cheap speaker replaced by a quality speaker will still sound better, even with the OEM head unit. Also a high end head unit will be able to drive a cheap speaker a little better due to better sound processing and fine tuning of the equalizer (boost bass, mids, treble). You'll still get a very nice improvement if you upgrade the speakers though. There can be a rare exception in which the car comes with really good high end speakers..sometimes there are optional JBL systems, and so on.. that's not the case for my Corolla though.
Also, the stock amplifier on a high quality head unit is plenty good to drive a decent pair of aftermarket speakers (with the proper sensitivity) to nearly their full potential. Don't pick high wattage speakers for a head unit amp.. if you do then an external amp is required. External amp is not required to notice a big difference in sound quality, it is required to boost the wattage and get a big difference in *volume* . I'll be posting a Head Unit upgrade video soon (upgrade to Pioneer stereo), with before/after sound sample. The Pioneer is able to drive the Infinity speakers way better than the stock unit.. as you mentioned, the unit does make a big difference. But if I had the stock speakers, it wouldn't sound nearly as good. Also if you want to have nice bass, then an external amp with a subwoofer is the way to go. Depends on what type of music you listen to.. you wouldn't need that for classical music for example. If you do go with external amp, then you can also consider an external crossover as well.. and then again the quality of the amp and crossover will matter a lot. A cheap amp may sound worse than the Pioneer stock amp.
So, my car front speakers are wheezing and I am thinking about replacing it like you did. But I've seem a lot of videos of people doing it but they always add an amp to make it a whole new sound system. My question is, is it worth it just to do what you did or an amp is kinda necessary?
No it's not necessary with 92db speakers. Make sure the speakers you buy have 92db sensitivity, and are not high wattage. They probably added an amp because they used high wattage and low sensitivity speakers to get crazy sound levels with minimal distortion. You won't shake the car next to you with this upgrade and no amp.. but it will be loud. If you want good quality music that doesn't cause hearing loss, this will be ok, and sound much much better than stock. Also to add an amp, it's ideal to have a line out, and the stock stereo does not.. using an amp with an already amplified sound source is not ideal at all.. so then you would first need to upgrade the stereo, and then add an amp, if you wanted to go that route. I do have a video for upgrading the stereo, which further improves sound quality: ruclips.net/video/JBnRhJJNNAE/видео.html
Im curious to know if theres a difference in the "highs" being theres tweeters in the upper part of the door and the new speaker having a tweeter as well. So have you noticed things being to "high"?
Awesome video! Definitely will be using this guide when I replace my speakers in a few days. One question I have is how did you bypass the tweeters? I know that there is a connections that you have to do with them or something. Also why not use the foam rings on the outside around the speakers? It doesn't look like they would do much on the inside around the hole. I have some coming and have seen them commonly put around the speaker.
On the outside toward the door panel it's useless.. the speaker is already close enough to the door panel that it reaches the round circle in it. Behind it stops vibrations from "filling" the door. So it goes behind to muffle those vibrations.. the speaker makes sound on the front but also on the back, and usually they're in an enclosed box. But on a car they can't be enclosed, so this is the closest idea.
@@CleverFix gotcha, I see what you mean. I bought some boom mats to put around the frame of the enclosure of the door panel for sound dampening I was also going to do this in the rear as well. Would you recommend the NVX baffles instead of this? I will also be using the meta mounting plate as well like you did.
@@woodtvnetwork NVX is only good for the front. I've used Dynamat stuff before and it's OK but I didn't notice a huge difference. The biggest difference was that in the winter my car would warm up inside more =) If you had a subwoofer maybe the mat makes sense, but otherwise this car is fairly solid. I don't really notice any vibrations and I haven't used any mat material.. I did the trunk too on my old car, I think it was a complete waste. I did the whole floor too, it made the ride quieter.. but again, hardly any improvement for the sound. So I'm not huge fan of plastering the entire car with matting material.. a few around the speakers are OK, but I don't think it will make a big difference. If you do notice rattling, then yes it's needed.. I'm not noticing any though. I like the NVX because it's silicone and it adds a rubber cushion between the speaker and door, so less vibrations are transferred. Also it helps to direct the sound into the foam behind it, and it prevents water from falling directly on the speakers from above. If anything, I'd get only the NVX and no fastrings if I had to choose between the two. The fastrings have a thicker sponge for the back which I tested and it muffles sound much more than the NVX sponge which is super thin.. The sound is really good after replacing both front & back, can't complain.. I'm happy the car is solid enough so it doesn't rattle. With a 12" Subwoofer it might start though, but I'm not into crazy bass any more.
@@CleverFix Thanks for the detailed reply! That is interesting to hear that you have not had great luck with the mat, but each car is different. I purchased the tape like you did and will be using that when applying the speakers in the front and the back. Also got the baffles as well and will be returning the boom mat.
Thanks! This is on a 2014 Corolla, with aluminum wiring, so cutting off the connector is a huge plus, because the OEM connector corrodes in time and loses connection. That was actually the #1 reason for me to do the upgrade. If you have an older Corolla it will be fine though.
Quick question, why don't you put the third fast rings (between the speaker and the door panel)? Is using the silicone replace the function of the third fast rings? Any info and guidance would be appreciated. Cheers and thanks.
Yes there definitely is a reason.. the factory connectors corrode. They're well known to lose connection, it happened to mine. I have another video where I fixed it.. So this is a good way to eliminate them.
@@CleverFix I have purchased all the materials and I'm putting the terminals on and sealing tape on. Before I take my door apart and commit any further, are you confident this will not corrode like the last fix did?
@@joewhattoff8754 These are copper connectors not aluminum, they won't corrode like that. they're plated too. So yes I'm confident.. there are millions of cars connected up like this, my last car I did the same thing and it never lost connection. The way I did it the aluminum wire butt connector + shrink wrap keeps it far from moisture and well protected now, so that won't corrode any more also.
@@CleverFix Is the smaller terminal the smallest .11 or second smallest .187? I'm having a really tough time getting the .11 on. I'm scared I might break the negative piece on the 🔊
@@joewhattoff8754 It's .11 . The other will be a bit too big. Just support the speaker plate from behind while pushing it on, and don't push it all at once, very slowly, and side to side while pressing down gently. It will go on. Just don't press too hard at once, that will bend one of them, I've had it happen. Slowly and side to side is the trick to make it expand.
The car must be turned off completely: no key in the ignition. For extra safety the battery can be disconnected as well to make sure the stereo stays off, especially if the car has a remote starter. When the stereo is OFF , there will be no power coming to the speaker wires, which ensures the stereo amplifier doesn't short circuit.
Here is a Pan head screw kit that has 8-32 screws, in 3/8" length which should also work. It doesn't have lock nuts, but it has lock washers which are almost as good. www.amazon.com/Assortment-Phillips-Washers-Kwokker-Stainless/dp/B0BTYFHNBF It's expensive, but it's nice to have for future projects if you fix a lot of things yourself though.. I went to Home Depot and bought them all separately, but had I know about a kit like this I would have got it. I'm always fixing something and I need a different size.
Did u hv amplifier pre-installed? Or this just the stereo nd speaker ? If yes wats the output of ur stereo ? Was the speaker response good without the amps?
Hey very informative video. This is gonna be my weekend project. Im a bit stuck while purchasing. You gave 2 links. Reference and kappa speakers. Are both compatible with front door? If i like lows more than highs which one do you suggest i should go with? (I do not wish to upgrade stereo )
Kappa is the better speaker in all aspects, including mids and bass, and it's even more sensitive than Reference, which means it produces more sound with less power, so the stock stereo is more suited for it. I used Reference to save money, but now I wish I went with Kappa. Yes both will work and there are tons of options .. pretty much any aftermarket 6.5" speaker pair should fit the brackets. The brackets specify even 6.75 will fit, but 6.5" is a much more common size. Thanks for the comment.
NICE! Alpine is great! The old-style Alpine single DIN stereos were amazing. Were you able to get the tweeters installed in the same place as the original ones? Thanks for the comment.
@@CleverFix Love Alpine, just Installed an ILX W670. Bought a Pipneer e360x4 gonna push the front speakers in about a week from 16w to 80w rms after I let the speakers break in some Yes removed the 10mm two cap nuts from the bracket on each side then unscrewed the tweeter from it from the back on one of them, the other I had to drill out (took an hour). The screws were both too snug to not strip, I got the first one out the last attempt before the screw was toast. I put the bracket back on then I used red 3m 25lbs adhesive mounting tape and disassembled the tweeter to its smallest form and pressed it really hard onto the bracket for about 2-3 minutes on both sides. From my personal experience it will never go anywhere, even if you try. Strong stuff. I tried to use the mounting stuff provided and two different tweeter mounts from Amazon that weren't quite the right fit but I couldn't figure out any way to use them that wasn't jerryrigged and any better than simply taping them.
Also I did this in a 2006 Corolla S, your guide was almost exactly faithful however the rivets are significantly harder to remove in mine than they were for you. It took me an average of 40 minutes each rivet to remove them and make them a threadable holes they all started spinning before I was able to remove them and melted the plastic ring onto the mount itself, destroyed a drill bit, i won't go into details just know it was a violent process, but I got everything off and only burned myself silly from friction heat twice
@@GavinosuHighlights Wow that's crazy long.. !! Sometimes going slow with a drill bit works better than going fast, I notice that a lot.. When fast doesn't work, try slower next time, with medium pressure. A good bit is needed too, I think I was using Dewalt. They have been really good, I just drilled a stainless steel sink, which I'd have no chance unless I had the Dewalt bits. Cheap drill bits can have a lot of trouble going through metal. Once they start spinning it's tough though. Glad you got it done in the end!
The only issue i can see with this is that you put a speaker sealer on the speaker to make the sound not reflect into the door panel but then you cut the part that seals it to the door panel. Granted, the better option over rubber for the seal is to use foam ones, as they will simply crumble down till the seal is made between the speaker and door panel as you push it down to lock it in, the rubber thing you used is more for you to seal the speaker from water while also removing the reflections into the door panel, a foam one is obviously not going to keep water away.
I only cut it so it would fit, and once it's cut it fits snug with the grill in the door panel. Also the door panel has a round plastic "shield" on the side that meets with the speaker, so there should be no problem with sound entering between the panel and metal of the door. The foam ring kit does come with a ring for the door panel also, but I was not able to fit it in at the same time as the NVX rubber baffle. I prefer the baffle, especially because it add one more layer of isolation between the speaker and door metal. The sound is very nice after the upgrade. Thanks for the comment.
the tiny magnet is adequate for the whole structure of the woofer material. the magnet on the new speaker means the oem headunit will barely have the punch to make it produce sound, they're gonna sound lifeless. you need an amplifier if you replace the speakers.
The upgrade will make it sound better and more enjoyable.. you can see other's people comments who actually did the upgrade.. The new speakers will make it sound better over stock. It's not all about the magnet. The speaker wattage and sensitivity is what's important. The replacement speakers are 92db which is quite sensitive. See: www.crutchfield.ca/S-jT6r6R6BbXn/learn/learningcenter/car/speakers.html "If you have a low-powered factory stereo (typically 10-15 watts RMS per channel or less), speakers with high sensitivity ratings (over 90 dB) will make the best match. If you have a high-power system like an aftermarket stereo or external amplifier, then consider speakers with lower sensitivity ratings. Properly powered, they'll provide excellent sound quality." So stock stereo can power them, because they are high sensitivity and fairly low watts, to the point they are loud. I never had to turn it up more than 75%. If you're looking for super-loud or pro quality, you won't get that with a cheap speaker upgrade.. so that's all this is, a decent improvement for low cost. If you're going with an external amp, you'll want better less sensitive speakers that can handle more watts.. and some dynamat all over the doors, because they will rattle with that much power.
Stock speakers have low wattage rating when I upgraded from stock toyota head unit to AVT head unit the stock speakers burned out..so upgraded to pioneer speakers and upgraded adapter together with foam installation..
Thanks! I know it's ridiculous!! There is no less quantity on amazon. Some speakers come with them, these Infinity do not, but JL Audio I believe does. You can find less quantity at AutoZone or similar auto part stores very likely, I bought mine from the local part store. So if you're lucky it comes with the speakers, and if not get from the part store.
@@CleverFix the removal of the stock speakers went well. I am installing the foam now. I do not know how you were able to install the big ring inside the door, my 2014 Corolla S Plus has a heavy set of wires which goes right over the area for the big ring inside of the door. Should I cut out a few inches of the ring? It would be like a big C instead of an O but that's the only thing I can think of. The group on cables seems very inflexible. Please advise boss.
@@joewhattoff8754 The screws that come with the bracket will be fine.. I just didn't like that they're so long and I prefer lock nuts myself.. but a lot of people use them and it's ok.
@@joewhattoff8754 Interesting, Yes mine had it too but there was still space. I'd try to push it out of the way and see if it stays.. all you need a tiny bit of space. I moved it when I removed the rivets, you can see it in that part of the video , so it has a bit of movement.. Worst case you have to cut it.. I can't think of anywhere to stick it, I think the NVX Baffle being silicone won't allow anything to stick to it.. if you can stick it to anything else that will work... maybe ring #2 on the back of the bracket ? Just make sure the speaker screws don't push it off, they'll probably screw into it... then you won't need to shorten the ring also.
Great video! I’m planning to buy those infinities for my Corolla. Will the tweeters work if mounted in the rear doors? My 2020 Corolla SE only haves 2 tweeters under the windshield and 4 6.5s, 1 in each door. Thanks in advance!
The tweeters on the Infinity speakers? They work anywhere, nothing special required, hook up the speaker like any other speaker, and you get the bonus of having tweeters too. 😀
Anything that insulates the speaker from vibrating the door will help, as long as the speaker is still mounted properly and not moving around. I'm not sure if anything will adhere to silicone properly though.
If there are more than 2 pins, then it's not as simple as the speaker in the video. You will have to figure what the 3rd and 4th pin are for. Maybe the other 2 pins are for a tweeter? You will need a wiring diagram.
Watch a speaker when there's bass playing. The cone pops out towards you, and it goes "boom" .. if the wires are reverse, then the speaker will do the opposite. It will move inward instead of outward, so the sound will not sound good! Sometimes it's not very noticeable, but hooking it up properly is important for good sound. It will not burn out.
I'm surprised by seeing a Corolla sold in the US comes with average speakers with tiny magnets. Herw in Pakistan, a Corolla comes with by default with speakers that you put in front door (with tweeter) and the rear 6x9 are also with large magnet and built in tweeter. I have a GLi variant and it's one model above lowest spec model. I purchased Alpine speakers and when I opened the door I was surprised to see high quality factory speakers.
I just did the upgrade following your video. I noticed that water from rain actually drips through the window seals and falls on the speaker and the inner panel. Does that happen to you?
I haven't noticed, but it is normal that a small amount water goes through the seal, that's why there are holes at the bottom of the door so it can drain out. How did you notice the water? I'm hoping if any water does get through, it would be repelled by the fastring, although it would probably absorb it..
@@CleverFix I noticed the water drips when I took the panel off to install the new speaker. It was after a rainy day so some rain still remained. I saw the interior of the panel was wet and on the old speaker there was a puddle of water. Probably why the old speakers died if it got flooded by water like that. I might have to look into the window seals to keep the water out then
@@philipcheung8910 Maybe you had very strong rains? If the seal is loose against the glass, that could let a lot of water in. Normally it should be tight to stop water, but a little gets through .
They were in good condition, but the stock connector got corroded, and they were losing connection. Upgrading seemed like the best solution, and I was surprised how much better the sound was after the upgrade also. They will surely break apart if you listen to music loud, someone else mentioned that happened to them too.
They make wiring adapters for speakers like this, No need for the splicing and crimping. Way better and faster, Also less of a hassle when going back for repairs. Great vide though
My OEM connectors were corroded, so they had to be cut off. I should have made that clearer in the video. Connectors are great for earlier years that have copper wiring. Many 2014+ will get the corrosion problem, I think it's inevitable that at some point they will all corrode. Moisture gets in through the window seal, and it's aluminum wire. Thanks for watching!
@@CleverFix thats a pigtail repair then yes. I recommend getting some liquid tape, Its one the best methods to protect all your wiring and prevent it from corroding again.
Great video! I just bought the Infinity REF-6530cx for my 2014 Corolla. Does anyone have a recommendation for where to install the crossover unit? It's about W4" x H3.25" x D1.1". This is my first speaker install.
@@soccertwnty47 It's best to mount it close to the speaker for the best sound. Above the speaker, the door panel has a bump in it, so there should be plenty of room there. Not sure how to mount it though.. I don't like making holes because they rust later.. but they can be made then painted to prevent rust, and then use small nuts and bolts. Another idea is above the speaker where the big white connector is.. possibly zip tie it to that big harness. Between that connector and speaker is where I'd put it. You can use some double sided tape and then put the panel back on and make sure it fits before making any holes if you're going to make holes. Maybe the tape would hold permanently as well, those boxes are usually very light.
hey man looking to upgrade my corolla 2017 tweeters and woofers. i’m really confused as to if this car needs a crossover to the tweeters if i use the metra harness for each connection without having to cut anything.
The stock tweeters have a crossover built in, and the ones I used in my Tweeter replacement video also do. So yes the tweeters need a crossover, but it's built it on many of them already.
@@snaketripp If the component set you have comes with a separate crossover for the tweeter yes. 6.5" coax speakers don't typically need any crossover, since they play mids and highs with the tweeter in the middle. Some component speakers with tweeters and woofers (not coax) may have a crossover for the woofer too, but that's rare.. Coax 6.5" hooked up straight to the wire that's already there, and a tweeter with built in crossover is the easiest to install.. no need to find room and mount any crossover.. although there is room if the tweeters do have an external crossover.
Depends on the system. If you have an external amp, and high wattage speakers, as well as a subwoofer, then it would help to dampen vibrations. I've applied butyl rubber deadening to my entire car in the past, but I had an external amp, and sub, so it made more sense. Without high power, the difference will be small, and maybe the $$ is better spent on an amplifier, subwoofer, stereo upgrade, or better speakers.
I was thinking of doing this with my 08 Corolla where there are factory tweeters in the upper front door. Since the stock lower woofer speaker is being replaced by a coaxial that also has a built-in tweeter, I heard that it could make the highs too overbearing due to the doubling of tweeters. Have you had any issues with sound balance?
I have "double" tweeters, since the speakers have them, and I also upgraded the ones in the sailpanel on the front door, and it still sounds very good. I did turn down the highs on my head unit for a while, but eventually I got used to them, and I don't need to turn them down any more. Turning the highs down can really help if they're a little too much... It will really depend on the independent tweeters on how bad the problem will be.. if the independent tweeters are super loud, then the highs will be too loud compared to the mids and lows that the speaker outputs. So it is a balancing act.. but usually the problem gets worse when upgrading the independent tweeters, not the coax speakers.
For the speakers in the video, yes. They are 180watts peak and 92db sensitivity. Make sure to get something 92db sensitivity for the stock speaker to be able to power them. 90 may work, but 92 is better. I have a stereo upgrade video coming soon, that will further improve sound, but the speaker upgrade will improve it quite a lot as well.
Can I use speaker harness adapters to connect to the cars speaker wire connector and the new speaker terminals so I don’t need to cut and crimp new speaker wire? You have the listed in the Amazon list for your rear speaker replacement video
I listed for the rear because the rear connectors usually are in good shape. The front connectors are well known to corrode, so one of the main reasons for doing this install was to cut off the connectors. If you want to keep them though, yes there is an adapter harness for it.. Mine corroded when the car was about 6 years old, and thousands of people had this problem, because the factory wires are aluminum.
That's a Dremel 2000-01 Butane Soldering Torch. It has multiple tips, I was using the torch tip. I added a link to a tool that is nearly identical but costs less, in the video description, it also has a torch tip.
Yes you can, I’m doing it on my 05 Corolla. Only problem I’m having is to place the door panel in place, it looks like the new speakers are a little bigger in length than the original ones, I’m going to trim the plastic inside the door panel where it matches the speaker to see if it fits, other than that everything including the materials on the video will work just fine.
The back rest on the back seat is very easy to remove.. I was thinking of making a video just on removing that first, it also give you more cargo room, if you need to transport a lot of stuff, it helps.. I did that once to fit bigger boxes on the back seat. I'm planning to do the 6x9's soon..
@@CleverFix for the 2016 toyota corolla s earlier I had to pull two of the fold down seats to get the side panels off now that in other videos they don't mention that and I had to get the seat out which is easy and the rest of the panels were easy to pop off now when doing it all in reverse things can get a little tricky putting it all back
I believe it's #8 screw, 1/2" to 3/4" long, if you still haven't found it try a #8 with pan head from the hardware store and see how it fits.. I think #10 is too big. I will confirm by tomorrow and put a link in the video description to the proper screws.
No, the speaker wires run through the tweeter and I'm not sure why actually.. so that makes it a bit challenging to change the tweeters. I wonder if there's some sort of crossover in there. Otherwise it hardly makes sense that the speaker goes through the tweeter,.. but I'll look into it. Thanks.
@@CleverFix Have you checked into this? I think the tweeter does have a crossover, and I was wondering if the door speaker gets it's signal after the crossover. Wouldn't this mean that the high frequencies are filtered by the tweeter, meaning that the coaxial speaker on the door is not getting the full range signal and therefore not performing as it could?
If you're in Canada, they can be found at this store: www.princessauto.com/en/199-pc-terminal-and-connector-kit-with-crimper/product/PA0008960510 They ship to US, but it may not be worth it. I also added a link to a different crimper/multi-tool that should also work just as good, in the video description. I bought that particular one because it can crimp good quality non-insulated butt connectors, but then I ended up finding good quality insulated ones. It also strips wire which is a bonus.
It worked for a few months, until one side started losing connection on and off again.. Everything looked good when I took it apart, no corrosion, but it was still losing connection. The brand new speaker on the same side also started losing connection after a few months too though.. which was quite strange. I took it apart and squeezed the terminal a bit to make a tighter connection, and put dielectric grease on it, and no problem since then. I think dielectric grease is really important. Sometimes I just want to solder the wire directly on the speaker.. but I don't like heating up the speaker coil. Infinity Kappa speakers have screws on them for terminal, which I only found after.. that's a really nice feature.
Hey I have 2014 Toyota Corolla LE, for some reason both of my front speakers stoped working. I checked all the wires and they look fine, any idea what it could be?
@@danzanarmanov2803 Check the connection at the tweeter like I did in this video: ruclips.net/video/4ytOAxK_0Cs/видео.html If the tweeter connection is good, then your wires are probably corroded at the speaker. If they stopped at different times, then they're likely corroded. If they both stopped working at once that suggests an electrical issue elsewhere.
It looks like the 2016 Avensis model uses 6.5" speakers like mine, but check here for more details: www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/vehicles/Toyota/Avensis/2016 and you can change the model year to match yours. The bracket may not be the same though, but they sell brackets at that link I sent you, or you might find it on Amazon. Thanks for watching!
Could you please post a link for your parts for that install here please, especially the bolts and nuts that would be extremely helpful..Thanks in advance 😊 🙏
If you enjoyed the video, please press the *like button* 👍 Your support is *greatly appreciated* .
*There are Links* in the video description for all the parts used in the video.
I also have a *TWEETER upgrade* video here: ruclips.net/video/EG8nxTCzVa0/видео.html *REAR SPEAKERS upgrade* : ruclips.net/video/oL5zZH09VuA/видео.html and *STEREO Upgrade* : ruclips.net/video/JBnRhJJNNAE/видео.html
If you enjoyed the video, please give it a *thumbs up* 👍. Your support helps me create more content and is *greatly appreciated* . If you have any *questions* , *comments* , or *suggestions* for future videos, feel free to leave them below. I love hearing from you and look forward to your *feedback* !
By any chance, do you know where I can find the baffles 6-3/4" size??
need to know the rating of the speaker replacement
WILL THE NVX BAFFLE FIT IN SUZUKI SWIFT SPORT 2006.?
Does your Corolla include a factory AMP? If not, have you connected any new ones?
Save yourself some time & adapt the factory connections to the new speakers 😂😂😂
I am a professional stereo installer for 29 years, and i have to say, you did i better job than most installers. The extra baffles, foam, and heat shrink, most installers do not use. Those speakers probably sounded better than they normally would.
Excellent work and great video !!!
Thank you! Yes they do sound quite good for a budget speaker. I'm really enjoying listening to them. I've done installs without the extras on all my previous cars, and the sound was never that great, even with expensive speakers. That's what motivated me to do a better job this time, and get the full potential of the speaker. A little extra $$ but totally worth it!
Hi I need advice. I had upgraded the speakers in my car everything was fine till recently I noticed it cutting out or crackling. So I redid the wiring like he did in the video and it didn't work got not sound from my front right speaker. Then tried using terminal block with a solid connection but all i get from my headunit is a pop through the front right and then nothing but sound out all my other speakers.
What could it be? I also noticed when I switch my car on theirs a buzz in my dashboard speaker.
@@qaisrafique9454 could be your factory amp stopped working on that channel
Hands-down one of the best video tutorials I've seen for a task that non-car or non-electrical people (like me) find daunting. My front left speaker has been cutting in and out for a few months, before shutting off completely a few weeks ago. You made it so easy to diagnose the same wire corrosion on my speaker in my 2015 Corolla, and replace the issue with better sounding speakers this past weekend. Thank you for taking the time to explain the steps so clearly, and for making this video. I changed out my speakers by myself for less than half of what a nearby car audio shop quoted me, and I bet my speaker setup also sounds better because of the added accessories like the Stringer Fastrings and NVX baffles. Kudos to you!
Thank you so much 😀, it's appreciated!
I agree, having the "needed tools" and list of things to buy was very handy. So many videos I watch from car guys and they assume you have a loaded snap-on toolbox and all the grease and oils and cleaners and everything already on hand, so you get halfway thru a job and realize "Oh I need this special lubricant for my brake pins? Well now I need get someone to give me a ride to AutoZone before the close"
As a past technical instructor, I must commend you on a very thorough solution to what is quite apparently an epidemic problem with Corolla's of this vintage. I've been tolerating intermittent function of my front speakers for several years in my 2015 Corolla LE-ECO. Today, I popped off the door panel to investigate (after stumbling onto your video). As soon as I touched the positive wire at the speaker harness connector, it fell right off. I've temporarily "rigged" it using a couple of female ECM terminals crimped to speaker wire leads. Since I could not reuse the OEM harness connector, the terminals are delicately placed into the speaker connector and said connector filled with RTV. This'll get me by until my new speakers and related components arrive (per the links that you so generously provided). Thank you for saving me lots of time and frustration Clever Fix...bravo!
Thanks a lot for the comment! Really appreciated. I couldn't tolerate it for long, it was so annoying. I'm really enjoying the better sound too, it makes driving a lot more pleasant. Hope the RTV holds long enough.. I was going to try to solder directly to the spades on the speaker side once it stopped working a second time, but I gave up..
Unless the connection is VERY secure, it will get lost again. In the video where I used a butt connector to the aluminum wire, one side gave up after a while. All I had to do was squeeze it real tight, and it has been perfect since, but it's that sensitive to moisture. Had I known, I would've used adhesive lined marine grade heatshrink... That's what I am using from now on for everything. This is a good reminder for me to add a link to it in the description as well.
Enjoy the new speakers once you put them in!
@@CleverFix Luckily the RTV only needs to hold up a few more days until all of the speaker installation supplies arrive and then it gets ripped out along with the lousy factory speakers. I will be using heat shrink tubing very liberally in my installation, including around the body of the female push connectors at the new speaker blade terminals. Factory Toyota window regulators seem to last forever, so I'm hoping this will be the last time I have to yank the door panels for as long as I own the car!
The driver side door speaker was cutting out. I did this install using exactly what was used in this video and LOVE it. Thank you for the awesome video.
Nice! Yes the sound is so much better, it makes driving more fun.
Thank so much for sharing this how to video. You made it look so easy, the added steps to make it sound better is a great idea. More power to you and your channel.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for the video! I lost the front driver’s side speaker in my ‘15 Corolla and found your DIY fix video. But then stumbled on your front speaker upgrade video and it made more sense to just replace them, rather than to fix the poor quality factory ones.
I ordered the parts through your links, and followed your video step by step. What a difference even while keeping the stock head unit, I’m very pleased. I will be tackling the rear speakers next, while following your other video, thanks again!!😊👍
Awesome, thanks for the support, it's appreciated ! Check out the tweeter video too, it makes a pretty good difference as well.. not as big as the speakers though, but I'm very happy after upgrading them. I have a new Pioneer stereo unit here that I'll be installing when the weather warms up. I'm expecting a huge improvement once I put it in. It was recommended by a viewer.
@@CleverFix Please record and make a video of the new head unit install please, I am definitely interested in this. Are you going to do the install with steering wheel controls and back up camera capabilities? Apple Car Play or Android too perhaps?
I’m doing the rear speaker install this weekend, is the rear seat backrest removal absolutely necessary, or is it just easier to work around with them removed? It doesn’t look too terribly difficult to remove them, just a few more extra steps. I probably will do it👍
@@kevmo919 I will do the install video once I get it done for sure. Yes, steering controls and backup camera will remain, I don't want to lose those, and yes the unit has both Apple car play and Android capabilities. Unfortunately I couldn't find a plug and play solution , so the Crux SWRTY61N adapter has to be connected to the Pioneer Head unit with some soldering.
The connectors on the car plug into the SWRTY though, so soldering can be done ahead of time, and then just plug it into the car.
I'm still a bit hesitant about giving out wire colors to connect, I don't want someone connecting the wrong wires by mistake, especially if the manufacturer changes the colors on later models. Maybe I will just show the manual for the SWRTY, and for the Pioneer, and mention which wires need to be connected together for it to work. The SWRTY has the backup camera jack, and steering wheel control jack, so it does both, plus the Toyota plugs go into it, so it's really useful.
As for the rear seats, I had to film it, and to do that, removing the seats made it way easier..
I don't fit well in there with the seat folded, I tried it and I thought it would be fine, but it was very cramped.
@@CleverFix Awesome, thanks for the information. I look forward to the new head unit video👍👍
I will try the rear speaker install without removing the rear backrests, but will be prepared to do so if I feel it’ll be easier too😏
Thanks for sharing this video! Just upgraded the front speakers of my 2017 corolla to 6.5" kicker speakers. You saved me alot of time and frustration. And the sound clarity is so much better!
Awesome 👍 Glad to hear! I'm working on a stereo upgrade video right now, which will be coming soon😊. I don't have it in yet, but I know it will improve the sound quality even more.
Thanks for the video. I was watching your other video on fixing the bad speaker wires but then I saw this and decided that if I'm going to rip into the door and work on the speakers anyway, I may as well upgrade my sound while I'm at it.
i installed my side, rear, and tweeter speakers this weekend. couldn't have done it without your videos. thank you so much! i'd still love to see a detailed video of the microphone installation for the touch screen. my audio upgrade is nearly complete👍
That's awesome, you should have really great sound now!! Check the A-pillar video: ruclips.net/video/bDzc7cpNY7I/видео.html once the a-pillar is removed, it's very easy to install the microphone. I double side sticked it on the windershield at the top, then push the wire under the headliner to hide it, and down the a-pillar. I used electrical tape to tape it to the existing wires going through the a-pillar, to keep it away from the airbag. Then I opened the left side cover of the dash, and routed the wire across to the middle, and use some zip ties to hold it in place. It's very simple.. the weather is too terrible now to do any filming.. it has been raining a lot, and cold.. so I haven't been able to do anything unfortunately. Thanks for the comment and watching!
@@CleverFix yup, especially after a touch screen that didn't work and blown rear speakers. It sounds great! I'll give that a try. Thanks again and stay warm!
Just watched this video and your video on the rear deck speakers.
Got the project done with no problems.
Very helpful, thank you.
Great to hear! Thanks for the comment.
took me 2.5 hours to do one door. The second door should be a lot easier. I ran into issues but did everything right. I love working on my own car.
You should upgrade the amplification part, the factory speaker may have an higher efficiency with the light paper cone, the new ones could sound more quiet without a proper amplifier
Thanks for the detailed guide and time put into this. Fellow Corolla owners appreciate your time and effort.
If you were simply trying to replace the speakers as they broken for a second time after Toyota fixed them once and keep costs low since Ed Sheeran and kids sings sound the same in your wife’s car could you leave out any of your build (ie the baffles) to cut costs? Thanks
Sure, just get the cheapest speakers, brackets, and some speaker tape. Baffles and foam are optional.. even speaker tape can be omitted.. and just use the screws that come with the bracket.
Excellent video i installed these same speakers back in april 2021 with a hidden spare tyre sub and it made a night and day difference with the sound quality
Nice! Hidden sub is a great idea for some extra bass.
@@CleverFix and i 've even gotten a few compliments on how good it sounds but i'm thinking of selling it to get the jbl basspro hub, i went with the rockville model
Great video! Nice professional touches, SQ improvements and details with easy to understand instructions and warnings.
Thanks for making this video and posting the items as well in the description box. I watched two other videos before this and neither worked.
No problem 😊
Excellent video. Best instructions yet. Helped me install my speakers into a 2012 Yaris. Thank you!
Looks like the rubber baffle takes care of everything, no need for the foam tape or the stinger foam kit.
Correct me if I’m wrong. Thanks for the video. Very informative. ❤
I was thinking about this, particularly going with no stinger foam since the baffle has both the foam and the baffle itself to reduce vibration. How did it turn out for you?
Holding off, waiting for this cold weather to subside will get them. I have everything installation related sitting on the workbench.
I got a 70 Mustang hogging space in the garage❤.
I can’t fit my corolla in there.
oof i feel that, might just bite the bullet and do my install in the cold honestly @@XCRiders
Your videos are the highest instructional quality
Thanks! Your comment is appreciated!
Is there any reason you didnt use the grills that came with the speakers? Great work on the videos keep up the good work I bought almost everything on this and your front speakers list!😀
Thanks for the great video. This was very educational. I didn't know about all the little tips and tricks that make it a great job like this.
just upgraded my speakers in 2010 corolla thank you for your video!
Nice, glad to hear it worked for a 2010.
One question did you also upgrade your stock multimedia player? Or did you only change the speakers?
@siddharthkolap7143 Yes I upgraded from the old radio. I think it's worth it if you want to get the most out of your new speakers and its nice to have bluetooth as well. A video that was really helpful was called 2009 - 2013 Toyota Corolla Radio Install by Provo Beast. It has a few links for some parts you'll need like a wiring harness and dash kit. The radio I ended up using was the Kenwood DPX504BT which I'm really happy with but there are alot of good options out there. Hope this helps
You replaced component speaker with coaxial one. Is this on purpose? Does the car have tweeters in the A pillar? My understanding is that if there is separate tweeter, then it's better to stick with component speakers, as then the woofer is getting signal with high tones already filtered by cars crossover.
I am, determined, to get this done now. Your instructions are amazing!
will that tweeter from the coaxial speaker give extra high pit to the sock tweeter?
I am planning to replace my front door speakers but it's component speaker. I am stuck with how to mount the cross over. Or I should go for coaxial set to make life easier?
Thanks for your videos on seat door removal as well as speaker helped a lot with my project
No problem 👍
Very informative … any info on upgrading the radio to car / Bluetooth …
I see the Toyota does nt have this in Toyota auris / avensis ( aura models )
I thought that changing the OEM speakers in a car doesn't give much improvement, if any at all, because you are still using the OEM head unit. I was told that changing out the stock head unit will give the most increase in performance per dollar because an aftermarket head unit will have a better internal amplifier.
Like on my FJ cruiser, I swapped out the head unit and the OEM speakers had a significant boost in performance. Guys told me that swapping out the speakers would not do much unless I also installed an aftermarket amplifier.
Every part you upgrade will give an improvement. If you upgrade the stereo, you'll get a huge improvement, and speakers will be another huge improvement. You can do either one, or both. Doing both will be the best. I've done this many times.. speakers and stereo, or stereo followed by speakers. There is a noticeable improvement with either upgrade.
A cheap speaker replaced by a quality speaker will still sound better, even with the OEM head unit. Also a high end head unit will be able to drive a cheap speaker a little better due to better sound processing and fine tuning of the equalizer (boost bass, mids, treble). You'll still get a very nice improvement if you upgrade the speakers though. There can be a rare exception in which the car comes with really good high end speakers..sometimes there are optional JBL systems, and so on.. that's not the case for my Corolla though.
Also, the stock amplifier on a high quality head unit is plenty good to drive a decent pair of aftermarket speakers (with the proper sensitivity) to nearly their full potential. Don't pick high wattage speakers for a head unit amp.. if you do then an external amp is required. External amp is not required to notice a big difference in sound quality, it is required to boost the wattage and get a big difference in *volume* . I'll be posting a Head Unit upgrade video soon (upgrade to Pioneer stereo), with before/after sound sample. The Pioneer is able to drive the Infinity speakers way better than the stock unit.. as you mentioned, the unit does make a big difference. But if I had the stock speakers, it wouldn't sound nearly as good.
Also if you want to have nice bass, then an external amp with a subwoofer is the way to go. Depends on what type of music you listen to.. you wouldn't need that for classical music for example. If you do go with external amp, then you can also consider an external crossover as well.. and then again the quality of the amp and crossover will matter a lot. A cheap amp may sound worse than the Pioneer stock amp.
So, my car front speakers are wheezing and I am thinking about replacing it like you did. But I've seem a lot of videos of people doing it but they always add an amp to make it a whole new sound system. My question is, is it worth it just to do what you did or an amp is kinda necessary?
No it's not necessary with 92db speakers. Make sure the speakers you buy have 92db sensitivity, and are not high wattage. They probably added an amp because they used high wattage and low sensitivity speakers to get crazy sound levels with minimal distortion. You won't shake the car next to you with this upgrade and no amp.. but it will be loud. If you want good quality music that doesn't cause hearing loss, this will be ok, and sound much much better than stock. Also to add an amp, it's ideal to have a line out, and the stock stereo does not.. using an amp with an already amplified sound source is not ideal at all.. so then you would first need to upgrade the stereo, and then add an amp, if you wanted to go that route. I do have a video for upgrading the stereo, which further improves sound quality: ruclips.net/video/JBnRhJJNNAE/видео.html
Im curious to know if theres a difference in the "highs" being theres tweeters in the upper part of the door and the new speaker having a tweeter as well. So have you noticed things being to "high"?
Awesome video! Definitely will be using this guide when I replace my speakers in a few days. One question I have is how did you bypass the tweeters? I know that there is a connections that you have to do with them or something. Also why not use the foam rings on the outside around the speakers? It doesn't look like they would do much on the inside around the hole. I have some coming and have seen them commonly put around the speaker.
On the outside toward the door panel it's useless.. the speaker is already close enough to the door panel that it reaches the round circle in it. Behind it stops vibrations from "filling" the door. So it goes behind to muffle those vibrations.. the speaker makes sound on the front but also on the back, and usually they're in an enclosed box. But on a car they can't be enclosed, so this is the closest idea.
@@CleverFix gotcha, I see what you mean. I bought some boom mats to put around the frame of the enclosure of the door panel for sound dampening I was also going to do this in the rear as well. Would you recommend the NVX baffles instead of this? I will also be using the meta mounting plate as well like you did.
@@woodtvnetwork NVX is only good for the front. I've used Dynamat stuff before and it's OK but I didn't notice a huge difference. The biggest difference was that in the winter my car would warm up inside more =) If you had a subwoofer maybe the mat makes sense, but otherwise this car is fairly solid. I don't really notice any vibrations and I haven't used any mat material.. I did the trunk too on my old car, I think it was a complete waste. I did the whole floor too, it made the ride quieter.. but again, hardly any improvement for the sound. So I'm not huge fan of plastering the entire car with matting material.. a few around the speakers are OK, but I don't think it will make a big difference. If you do notice rattling, then yes it's needed.. I'm not noticing any though. I like the NVX because it's silicone and it adds a rubber cushion between the speaker and door, so less vibrations are transferred. Also it helps to direct the sound into the foam behind it, and it prevents water from falling directly on the speakers from above. If anything, I'd get only the NVX and no fastrings if I had to choose between the two. The fastrings have a thicker sponge for the back which I tested and it muffles sound much more than the NVX sponge which is super thin.. The sound is really good after replacing both front & back, can't complain.. I'm happy the car is solid enough so it doesn't rattle. With a 12" Subwoofer it might start though, but I'm not into crazy bass any more.
@@CleverFix Thanks for the detailed reply! That is interesting to hear that you have not had great luck with the mat, but each car is different. I purchased the tape like you did and will be using that when applying the speakers in the front and the back. Also got the baffles as well and will be returning the boom mat.
Excellent work , except for cutting off the door wiring harness , I'd have installed the connector from the OEM speaker to the new one instead.
Thanks! This is on a 2014 Corolla, with aluminum wiring, so cutting off the connector is a huge plus, because the OEM connector corrodes in time and loses connection. That was actually the #1 reason for me to do the upgrade. If you have an older Corolla it will be fine though.
Hi, the speaker connector adapters are the same as the ones you use for your back speaker ??
Quick question, why don't you put the third fast rings (between the speaker and the door panel)? Is using the silicone replace the function of the third fast rings?
Any info and guidance would be appreciated.
Cheers and thanks.
Nice definitely the next thing i like to do on the Corolla but is there a reason why you didn't use the Metra 72-8104 speaker harness?
Yes there definitely is a reason.. the factory connectors corrode. They're well known to lose connection, it happened to mine. I have another video where I fixed it.. So this is a good way to eliminate them.
@@CleverFix I have purchased all the materials and I'm putting the terminals on and sealing tape on. Before I take my door apart and commit any further, are you confident this will not corrode like the last fix did?
@@joewhattoff8754 These are copper connectors not aluminum, they won't corrode like that. they're plated too. So yes I'm confident.. there are millions of cars connected up like this, my last car I did the same thing and it never lost connection. The way I did it the aluminum wire butt connector + shrink wrap keeps it far from moisture and well protected now, so that won't corrode any more also.
@@CleverFix Is the smaller terminal the smallest .11 or second smallest .187?
I'm having a really tough time getting the .11 on. I'm scared I might break the negative piece on the 🔊
@@joewhattoff8754 It's .11 . The other will be a bit too big. Just support the speaker plate from behind while pushing it on, and don't push it all at once, very slowly, and side to side while pressing down gently. It will go on. Just don't press too hard at once, that will bend one of them, I've had it happen. Slowly and side to side is the trick to make it expand.
Those infinity's are the best choice
Hi thanks for your video. Im planning to change mine too. Do I need to disconnect the car battery while installing?
The car must be turned off completely: no key in the ignition. For extra safety the battery can be disconnected as well to make sure the stereo stays off, especially if the car has a remote starter. When the stereo is OFF , there will be no power coming to the speaker wires, which ensures the stereo amplifier doesn't short circuit.
Can you please share a link for a screws Length 1/2" . thread 8-32 with washer and locking nuts ?
This video has really helped me a lot. Thanks.
Here is a Pan head screw kit that has 8-32 screws, in 3/8" length which should also work. It doesn't have lock nuts, but it has lock washers which are almost as good.
www.amazon.com/Assortment-Phillips-Washers-Kwokker-Stainless/dp/B0BTYFHNBF
It's expensive, but it's nice to have for future projects if you fix a lot of things yourself though.. I went to Home Depot and bought them all separately, but had I know about a kit like this I would have got it. I'm always fixing something and I need a different size.
@@CleverFix Thank you so much.
Where do I get de crimper that you are using by the way very helpful video thanks
Great Video. Exactly what I needed.
What do you think of these China made Head Unit replacements made to custom fit the Corolla? They run about $500.
Did u hv amplifier pre-installed? Or this just the stereo nd speaker ? If yes wats the output of ur stereo ? Was the speaker response good without the amps?
Hey very informative video. This is gonna be my weekend project.
Im a bit stuck while purchasing. You gave 2 links. Reference and kappa speakers. Are both compatible with front door?
If i like lows more than highs which one do you suggest i should go with? (I do not wish to upgrade stereo )
Kappa is the better speaker in all aspects, including mids and bass, and it's even more sensitive than Reference, which means it produces more sound with less power, so the stock stereo is more suited for it. I used Reference to save money, but now I wish I went with Kappa. Yes both will work and there are tons of options .. pretty much any aftermarket 6.5" speaker pair should fit the brackets. The brackets specify even 6.75 will fit, but 6.5" is a much more common size. Thanks for the comment.
Wow, un autre excellent vidéo... j'ai une corolla 2016, est-ce que je pourrais t'engager pour faire exactement la même chose que dans cette vidéo?
This sounds amazing and was well worth the extra work. Installed Alpine S2-S65C speakers and tweeters
NICE! Alpine is great! The old-style Alpine single DIN stereos were amazing. Were you able to get the tweeters installed in the same place as the original ones? Thanks for the comment.
@@CleverFix Love Alpine, just
Installed an ILX W670. Bought a Pipneer e360x4 gonna push the front speakers in about a week from 16w to 80w rms after I let the speakers break in some
Yes removed the 10mm two cap nuts from the bracket on each side then unscrewed the tweeter from it from the back on one of them, the other I had to drill out (took an hour). The screws were both too snug to not strip, I got the first one out the last attempt before the screw was toast. I put the bracket back on then I used red 3m 25lbs adhesive mounting tape and disassembled the tweeter to its smallest form and pressed it really hard onto the bracket for about 2-3 minutes on both sides. From my personal experience it will never go anywhere, even if you try. Strong stuff. I tried to use the mounting stuff provided and two different tweeter mounts from Amazon that weren't quite the right fit but I couldn't figure out any way to use them that wasn't jerryrigged and any better than simply taping them.
Also I did this in a 2006 Corolla S, your guide was almost exactly faithful however the rivets are significantly harder to remove in mine than they were for you. It took me an average of 40 minutes each rivet to remove them and make them a threadable holes they all started spinning before I was able to remove them and melted the plastic ring onto the mount itself, destroyed a drill bit, i won't go into details just know it was a violent process, but I got everything off and only burned myself silly from friction heat twice
I wouldn't have had the confidence to do this myself if not for your detailed pov tutorial, thank you man
@@GavinosuHighlights Wow that's crazy long.. !! Sometimes going slow with a drill bit works better than going fast, I notice that a lot.. When fast doesn't work, try slower next time, with medium pressure. A good bit is needed too, I think I was using Dewalt. They have been really good, I just drilled a stainless steel sink, which I'd have no chance unless I had the Dewalt bits. Cheap drill bits can have a lot of trouble going through metal.
Once they start spinning it's tough though. Glad you got it done in the end!
Thanks you great job! IS it not possible to use the old bracket?
There is no old bracket, .. the old speaker has plastic around it built in that is the "bracket" but it's really part of the speaker. Thanks!
@@CleverFix Ok thank you for the information, I thought you might changed it only for an upgrade 👍
The only issue i can see with this is that you put a speaker sealer on the speaker to make the sound not reflect into the door panel but then you cut the part that seals it to the door panel.
Granted, the better option over rubber for the seal is to use foam ones, as they will simply crumble down till the seal is made between the speaker and door panel as you push it down to lock it in, the rubber thing you used is more for you to seal the speaker from water while also removing the reflections into the door panel, a foam one is obviously not going to keep water away.
I only cut it so it would fit, and once it's cut it fits snug with the grill in the door panel. Also the door panel has a round plastic "shield" on the side that meets with the speaker, so there should be no problem with sound entering between the panel and metal of the door. The foam ring kit does come with a ring for the door panel also, but I was not able to fit it in at the same time as the NVX rubber baffle. I prefer the baffle, especially because it add one more layer of isolation between the speaker and door metal. The sound is very nice after the upgrade. Thanks for the comment.
The replacement speakers have to be 2 ohm using the factory JBL amp in my Camry?
the tiny magnet is adequate for the whole structure of the woofer material. the magnet on the new speaker means the oem headunit will barely have the punch to make it produce sound, they're gonna sound lifeless. you need an amplifier if you replace the speakers.
The upgrade will make it sound better and more enjoyable.. you can see other's people comments who actually did the upgrade.. The new speakers will make it sound better over stock. It's not all about the magnet. The speaker wattage and sensitivity is what's important. The replacement speakers are 92db which is quite sensitive.
See: www.crutchfield.ca/S-jT6r6R6BbXn/learn/learningcenter/car/speakers.html
"If you have a low-powered factory stereo (typically 10-15 watts RMS per channel or less), speakers with high sensitivity ratings (over 90 dB) will make the best match.
If you have a high-power system like an aftermarket stereo or external amplifier, then consider speakers with lower sensitivity ratings. Properly powered, they'll provide excellent sound quality."
So stock stereo can power them, because they are high sensitivity and fairly low watts, to the point they are loud. I never had to turn it up more than 75%. If you're looking for super-loud or pro quality, you won't get that with a cheap speaker upgrade.. so that's all this is, a decent improvement for low cost. If you're going with an external amp, you'll want better less sensitive speakers that can handle more watts.. and some dynamat all over the doors, because they will rattle with that much power.
Can you please tell me the screws size you used to fit the speakers?
See 2:43 in the video. I used 8-32 screws that are 1/2" long, and I used locking nuts so vibration doesn't loosen the nut.
Great video Sir. Now i have a motivation to upgrade mine. What year is your Toyota Corolla? Just want to make sure that mine is the same as yours.
Thanks! 2014-2018 will be the same. Other years should be similar as well too, with minor differences.
Stock speakers have low wattage rating when I upgraded from stock toyota head unit to AVT head unit the stock speakers burned out..so upgraded to pioneer speakers and upgraded adapter together with foam installation..
Excellent video, thank you!
I probably do not need so many terminals. Is there a similar product with less quantity?
Thanks! I know it's ridiculous!! There is no less quantity on amazon. Some speakers come with them, these Infinity do not, but JL Audio I believe does. You can find less quantity at AutoZone or similar auto part stores very likely, I bought mine from the local part store. So if you're lucky it comes with the speakers, and if not get from the part store.
@@CleverFix the removal of the stock speakers went well. I am installing the foam now. I do not know how you were able to install the big ring inside the door, my 2014 Corolla S Plus has a heavy set of wires which goes right over the area for the big ring inside of the door. Should I cut out a few inches of the ring? It would be like a big C instead of an O but that's the only thing I can think of. The group on cables seems very inflexible. Please advise boss.
Do I need to use the shorter screws? The screws that came with the metra adapter seem to be short enough to not interfere with the window.
@@joewhattoff8754 The screws that come with the bracket will be fine.. I just didn't like that they're so long and I prefer lock nuts myself.. but a lot of people use them and it's ok.
@@joewhattoff8754 Interesting, Yes mine had it too but there was still space. I'd try to push it out of the way and see if it stays.. all you need a tiny bit of space. I moved it when I removed the rivets, you can see it in that part of the video , so it has a bit of movement.. Worst case you have to cut it.. I can't think of anywhere to stick it, I think the NVX Baffle being silicone won't allow anything to stick to it.. if you can stick it to anything else that will work... maybe ring #2 on the back of the bracket ? Just make sure the speaker screws don't push it off, they'll probably screw into it... then you won't need to shorten the ring also.
My factory speakers sound amazing!!
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla. I just ordered some Rockford Fosgate 6.75 size door speakers. Will those work or would I need to get 6.5?
Yes 6.75 will fit also. The Metra brackets specify up to 6 3/4".
Great video! I’m planning to buy those infinities for my Corolla. Will the tweeters work if mounted in the rear doors? My 2020 Corolla SE only haves 2 tweeters under the windshield and 4 6.5s, 1 in each door. Thanks in advance!
The tweeters on the Infinity speakers? They work anywhere, nothing special required, hook up the speaker like any other speaker, and you get the bonus of having tweeters too. 😀
@@CleverFix thank you good sir 🍻
We do not deserve your kindness good sir. Thank you!
Do you think applying self adhesive speaker foam base pad( Brand NVX ) to the silicone ring will make more difference ?
Anything that insulates the speaker from vibrating the door will help, as long as the speaker is still mounted properly and not moving around. I'm not sure if anything will adhere to silicone properly though.
@@CleverFix Thanks.
I have Seat Ibiza 2003, 4pin speaker connector (blue, yellow, red) Can i cut connector like you did?
If there are more than 2 pins, then it's not as simple as the speaker in the video. You will have to figure what the 3rd and 4th pin are for. Maybe the other 2 pins are for a tweeter? You will need a wiring diagram.
Did you also have to run an amp as well?
Great video! I've found articles saying the size is 6-3/4 but does 6-1/2 work?
Yes 6-1/2 works as well, that's what I used. The adapter bracket can accept either one.
A question.. if I replaced positive terminal by thr negative one.. what will be done.. will the speakers be burnt?
Watch a speaker when there's bass playing. The cone pops out towards you, and it goes "boom" .. if the wires are reverse, then the speaker will do the opposite. It will move inward instead of outward, so the sound will not sound good! Sometimes it's not very noticeable, but hooking it up properly is important for good sound. It will not burn out.
I'm surprised by seeing a Corolla sold in the US comes with average speakers with tiny magnets. Herw in Pakistan, a Corolla comes with by default with speakers that you put in front door (with tweeter) and the rear 6x9 are also with large magnet and built in tweeter. I have a GLi variant and it's one model above lowest spec model. I purchased Alpine speakers and when I opened the door I was surprised to see high quality factory speakers.
I just did the upgrade following your video. I noticed that water from rain actually drips through the window seals and falls on the speaker and the inner panel. Does that happen to you?
I haven't noticed, but it is normal that a small amount water goes through the seal, that's why there are holes at the bottom of the door so it can drain out. How did you notice the water? I'm hoping if any water does get through, it would be repelled by the fastring, although it would probably absorb it..
@@CleverFix I noticed the water drips when I took the panel off to install the new speaker. It was after a rainy day so some rain still remained. I saw the interior of the panel was wet and on the old speaker there was a puddle of water. Probably why the old speakers died if it got flooded by water like that. I might have to look into the window seals to keep the water out then
@@philipcheung8910 Maybe you had very strong rains? If the seal is loose against the glass, that could let a lot of water in. Normally it should be tight to stop water, but a little gets through .
Your factory speakers look decent. Obviously you wanna upgrade. When I took mine out, it looked like it was made out of cardboard. 😂
They were in good condition, but the stock connector got corroded, and they were losing connection. Upgrading seemed like the best solution, and I was surprised how much better the sound was after the upgrade also. They will surely break apart if you listen to music loud, someone else mentioned that happened to them too.
What bolt size did you use to mount the speakers?
do you need to unplug the batteries first?
Great job. Gonna do it myself shortly.
They make wiring adapters for speakers like this, No need for the splicing and crimping. Way better and faster, Also less of a hassle when going back for repairs. Great vide though
My OEM connectors were corroded, so they had to be cut off. I should have made that clearer in the video. Connectors are great for earlier years that have copper wiring. Many 2014+ will get the corrosion problem, I think it's inevitable that at some point they will all corrode. Moisture gets in through the window seal, and it's aluminum wire. Thanks for watching!
@@CleverFix thats a pigtail repair then yes. I recommend getting some liquid tape, Its one the best methods to protect all your wiring and prevent it from corroding again.
@@joelh3030 I'll look into the liquid tape, thanks for the tip!
Great video! I just bought the Infinity REF-6530cx for my 2014 Corolla. Does anyone have a recommendation for where to install the crossover unit? It's about W4" x H3.25" x D1.1". This is my first speaker install.
Just curious where you ended up installing it?
@@CleverFixWaiting for some warmer weather to do the install, I'll update in about a month or so. If anyone has suggestions, please let me know!
@@soccertwnty47 It's best to mount it close to the speaker for the best sound. Above the speaker, the door panel has a bump in it, so there should be plenty of room there. Not sure how to mount it though.. I don't like making holes because they rust later.. but they can be made then painted to prevent rust, and then use small nuts and bolts. Another idea is above the speaker where the big white connector is.. possibly zip tie it to that big harness. Between that connector and speaker is where I'd put it. You can use some double sided tape and then put the panel back on and make sure it fits before making any holes if you're going to make holes. Maybe the tape would hold permanently as well, those boxes are usually very light.
That's A LOT of work.
Just pay for a professional then
Bro you’re mad lazy wtf 💀
Just pay 1200
You probably make your mommy cut the crust off your pb&j
Unless you’re an audiophile you can skip all the steps except the speaker sealing tape
hey man looking to upgrade my corolla 2017 tweeters and woofers. i’m really confused as to if this car needs a crossover to the tweeters if i use the metra harness for each connection without having to cut anything.
The stock tweeters have a crossover built in, and the ones I used in my Tweeter replacement video also do. So yes the tweeters need a crossover, but it's built it on many of them already.
so if i have a component set to replace each door speaker, i only need a crossover going into the tweeter?
@@snaketripp If the component set you have comes with a separate crossover for the tweeter yes. 6.5" coax speakers don't typically need any crossover, since they play mids and highs with the tweeter in the middle. Some component speakers with tweeters and woofers (not coax) may have a crossover for the woofer too, but that's rare.. Coax 6.5" hooked up straight to the wire that's already there, and a tweeter with built in crossover is the easiest to install.. no need to find room and mount any crossover.. although there is room if the tweeters do have an external crossover.
Is it worth it to add additional sound deadening to the door?
Depends on the system. If you have an external amp, and high wattage speakers, as well as a subwoofer, then it would help to dampen vibrations. I've applied butyl rubber deadening to my entire car in the past, but I had an external amp, and sub, so it made more sense. Without high power, the difference will be small, and maybe the $$ is better spent on an amplifier, subwoofer, stereo upgrade, or better speakers.
Somebody are installed SubWoofer on Corolla LE 2021, I see the space in the trunk for install. the top bracket has the holes.
Are the speakers RMS wattage within the head unit parameters? Or do you have an amp?
Good question, The head unit can power them just fine and they're quite loud, there's no need for an amp.
Will those speaker adapter brackets work on toyota corolla le 2020 standard model?
Hey thanks for the tutorial! It helped me. Cheers!
@Clever Fix what size Crimp Connectors did you use? Can you give me a the excat one? (2.8mm,4.8mm, or 6.3mm)
2.8 and 4.8mm
I was thinking of doing this with my 08 Corolla where there are factory tweeters in the upper front door. Since the stock lower woofer speaker is being replaced by a coaxial that also has a built-in tweeter, I heard that it could make the highs too overbearing due to the doubling of tweeters. Have you had any issues with sound balance?
I have "double" tweeters, since the speakers have them, and I also upgraded the ones in the sailpanel on the front door, and it still sounds very good. I did turn down the highs on my head unit for a while, but eventually I got used to them, and I don't need to turn them down any more. Turning the highs down can really help if they're a little too much... It will really depend on the independent tweeters on how bad the problem will be.. if the independent tweeters are super loud, then the highs will be too loud compared to the mids and lows that the speaker outputs. So it is a balancing act.. but usually the problem gets worse when upgrading the independent tweeters, not the coax speakers.
Thanks for the input. Your video is a great reference.
I was wondering if the car amplifier is big enough to drive the new upgraded speakers.
For the speakers in the video, yes. They are 180watts peak and 92db sensitivity. Make sure to get something 92db sensitivity for the stock speaker to be able to power them. 90 may work, but 92 is better. I have a stereo upgrade video coming soon, that will further improve sound, but the speaker upgrade will improve it quite a lot as well.
@@CleverFixlooking forward to the new video. By the way, how much power of the amplifier from the after market head unit would power (generally)?
GREAT JOB,MATE
Can I use speaker harness adapters to connect to the cars speaker wire connector and the new speaker terminals so I don’t need to cut and crimp new speaker wire? You have the listed in the Amazon list for your rear speaker replacement video
I listed for the rear because the rear connectors usually are in good shape. The front connectors are well known to corrode, so one of the main reasons for doing this install was to cut off the connectors. If you want to keep them though, yes there is an adapter harness for it.. Mine corroded when the car was about 6 years old, and thousands of people had this problem, because the factory wires are aluminum.
Okay thanks for the advice! I’m going to use your Amazon links. Great videos!
Hey where did you get your little heat
Pen you used for the shrink tubing from?
That's a Dremel 2000-01 Butane Soldering Torch. It has multiple tips, I was using the torch tip. I added a link to a tool that is nearly identical but costs less, in the video description, it also has a torch tip.
can i do this to my 06 corolla ??
Yes you can, I’m doing it on my 05 Corolla. Only problem I’m having is to place the door panel in place, it looks like the new speakers are a little bigger in length than the original ones, I’m going to trim the plastic inside the door panel where it matches the speaker to see if it fits, other than that everything including the materials on the video will work just fine.
You should make a video which there is on removing the back 6x9's you have to remove the seats not really but they say it cause of damages
The back rest on the back seat is very easy to remove.. I was thinking of making a video just on removing that first, it also give you more cargo room, if you need to transport a lot of stuff, it helps.. I did that once to fit bigger boxes on the back seat. I'm planning to do the 6x9's soon..
@@CleverFix for the 2016 toyota corolla s earlier I had to pull two of the fold down seats to get the side panels off now that in other videos they don't mention that and I had to get the seat out which is easy and the rest of the panels were easy to pop off now when doing it all in reverse things can get a little tricky putting it all back
My speakers didn’t come with screws which ones would work ?
I believe it's #8 screw, 1/2" to 3/4" long, if you still haven't found it try a #8 with pan head from the hardware store and see how it fits.. I think #10 is too big. I will confirm by tomorrow and put a link in the video description to the proper screws.
Ok, it is #8, I'll be linking it up soon.
Have you change your tweeter yet? Great video btw.
No, the speaker wires run through the tweeter and I'm not sure why actually.. so that makes it a bit challenging to change the tweeters. I wonder if there's some sort of crossover in there. Otherwise it hardly makes sense that the speaker goes through the tweeter,.. but I'll look into it. Thanks.
@@CleverFix Have you checked into this? I think the tweeter does have a crossover, and I was wondering if the door speaker gets it's signal after the crossover. Wouldn't this mean that the high frequencies are filtered by the tweeter, meaning that the coaxial speaker on the door is not getting the full range signal and therefore not performing as it could?
Great info. This might help as well. Metra 72-8104 Speaker Connector
Which crimper is that ? Good vid
If you're in Canada, they can be found at this store: www.princessauto.com/en/199-pc-terminal-and-connector-kit-with-crimper/product/PA0008960510 They ship to US, but it may not be worth it. I also added a link to a different crimper/multi-tool that should also work just as good, in the video description. I bought that particular one because it can crimp good quality non-insulated butt connectors, but then I ended up finding good quality insulated ones. It also strips wire which is a bonus.
Nice clean install
Thanks 👍
What an excellent video!! Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for the feedback.
Enjoyed watching 🖤
Did the stock speaker wiring repair you did in your other video end up not working?
It worked for a few months, until one side started losing connection on and off again.. Everything looked good when I took it apart, no corrosion, but it was still losing connection. The brand new speaker on the same side also started losing connection after a few months too though.. which was quite strange. I took it apart and squeezed the terminal a bit to make a tighter connection, and put dielectric grease on it, and no problem since then. I think dielectric grease is really important.
Sometimes I just want to solder the wire directly on the speaker.. but I don't like heating up the speaker coil. Infinity Kappa speakers have screws on them for terminal, which I only found after.. that's a really nice feature.
@@CleverFix Thanks for the quick reply. Understood. This video is great once again. Appreciate you putting your time into this.
Can you do a video on changing the tweeters on the Corolla
Had someone else asking as well, I'm looking into it.
@@CleverFix thank you in advance 🙏
@@CleverFix apparently people have trouble changing the tweeters because it cuts your mid audio out any help would be appreciated
What are the speaker terminal sizes?
Hey I have 2014 Toyota Corolla LE, for some reason both of my front speakers stoped working. I checked all the wires and they look fine, any idea what it could be?
Do the tweeters work? Did they stop working at the same time?
@@CleverFix tweeters are working
@@danzanarmanov2803 Check the connection at the tweeter like I did in this video: ruclips.net/video/4ytOAxK_0Cs/видео.html If the tweeter connection is good, then your wires are probably corroded at the speaker. If they stopped at different times, then they're likely corroded. If they both stopped working at once that suggests an electrical issue elsewhere.
@@danzanarmanov2803 My driver door speaker is popping and buzzing on AM radio most noticeably.
One question? Wouldn't those foam get wet?
Yes, they could get wet, it shouldn't cause a problem though.
What year Corolla car this, I have a 2014 & I think the require 6 3/4 speakers
It's a 2014.
ok, but sloppy. does the window contact the foam center placed behind the speaker? it looks like it would when the window is all the way down.
No it doesn't, the windows comes down right in between the speaker and foam without touching. See 4:11 for window position.
Is this the same size for a toyota Avensis speaker installation?
It looks like the 2016 Avensis model uses 6.5" speakers like mine, but check here for more details: www.dynamicsounds.co.uk/vehicles/Toyota/Avensis/2016 and you can change the model year to match yours. The bracket may not be the same though, but they sell brackets at that link I sent you, or you might find it on Amazon. Thanks for watching!
Could you please post a link for your parts for that install here please, especially the bolts and nuts that would be extremely helpful..Thanks in advance 😊 🙏