Brother I searched high and low for this video I appreciate your point-to-point description and the time you took to leave details that are crucial to installing a manual chain tensioner for the Crossplane! ❤
i'm watching a few videos on this topic and most of them dont go as deep as you do. They just take off the first top cover and line up the T with the sensor. Have you seen any problems with doing it like that?. I appreciate you method is more thorough.
I hope you can help me🙏, I want to change the original tensioner for the original one, when I remove the old tensioner and put the new tensioner on (maintaining tension with the screwdriver), how do I unlock it to tighten the chain?
Just found answer to my early question buddy, very informative video, however still have last question, after align the k mark and change the CCT, do i need to spin the crank sproket again to a certain degree? Or leave it as it and put everything back? 🙏
Roll the engine over slowly a few times. You'll notice as you get close to the K mark, the cams will almost pull or rotate the crank for you, and then it'll stop. This is because the valve springs are putting pressure on the lobes, and forcing them over. What you want is as close to the K mark as you can get, and AFTER that slight automatic rotation. You'll want to do this with the factory tensioner still in. Practice it and you'll know immediately what I'm referring to.
Could you tell me if when fitting a manual cam chain tensioner if the engine needs to be at top dead centre on the compression stroke, or would it still be still ok set at top dead centre, on the exhaust stroke. Thanks.
@@cobaltss0720 Thanks cobaltss0720 Saves me a lot of trouble taking the cam cover off, and aligning the camshaft timing marks to get tdc on the compression stroke.
thanks for the video. install looks simple but a little nervous about not having enough tension on the chain while swapping CCT. so do you have to remove the cover again anytime you do adjustments? or just back out the locking nut, tighten tension down, and tighten down locking nut again? how tight is too tight when adjusting
r1nstang you shouldn't have to remove the timing cover every time. Because you'll be making adjustments to tighten the chain, you won't lose tension, if that makes any sense.
whats up man, im doing this on a honda 919 but im sure its pretty much the same, my question is how do you know if its too tight? its the only thing im not super confident on. ive heard people say a whirling noise would indicate over tight but i dont what that really means. thanks!
hey bro, i was working on my 05 r1, i got a new timing cover, i pulled it and the tensioner pin came with it, i dont think it moved, but i was able to quickly put the pin back into place, lost tension for about 20 seconds, it honestly didnt look like anything changed, the tensioner guide just dropped a little .any recommendations?
I kno this is for a Yamaha but I did mine on my 04 gsxr 750. I did like everyone said keep tension for timing!! The bike runs and idles fine so timing isn't off. BUT... when i rev the bike it whines. I'm thinking it's the new tensioner because the head is different from the stock one. Any ideas?
hi i have a 2012 r1 the engine noise is the same as sheared videos they changed the tensioner and the sound go so i buy ape manual tensioner i did what they did but the same noise still coming out any help plz i’m from iraq and we don’t have a good engineer
Hey hey everyone, I have a 2009 R1 with 11,000 mi on it that I have not ridden much in the last 5 years because of the click clock on start and down on power. I knew there was something wrong with it but I couldn't get my head out of my ass to read online and figure out that the cam chain tensioner needed to be replaced. But all is well. Hopefully the bike wasn't ridden much and hopefully the motor not hurt which I don't think it is because as it's running it sounds fine except for the click clack on start. But my question is the video is pretty clear that when you're setting initial tension you screw the tensioner bolt all the way in till it stops and then you go a quarter turn more. But everyone in the comments seems to think you go a quarter turn back. So which one is it? The video is pretty clear that you go an extra quarter. Turn tight after you get it. Finger tight
I you finger tighten the bolt and after that adjusting by noise with the motor running why would you ever adjust the bolt out? I don't see the danger here?
JustAnR6 I always suggest TDC to be safe. keeping tension on the chain is critical. the reason for TDC is that when you shut off your bike, it doesn't always roll over to a timing mark. which could pose a problem when you loosen chain tension. the motor "could" roll over on its own some when you loosen the OEM cam chain tensioner to put in your after market one. basically the motor could be on the verge of another stroke, which makes it incredible easy go roll over. hope that helps, and wasn't too confusing.
Sucks cause I just put bike back together yesterday from checking valve clearances lol, so tdc with cylinder 1 cams facing out right? Also is there a way to physically test the tensioner before I order one? Im going back with oem, but just wanna be sure thats what it is before I tear the bike down again, I appreciate the advice!
Well $%@#, lol sucks because I just got my bike back together yesterday from checking valve clearances, ok so tdc is cylinder 1 cams facing away from each other? Also is there any way to physically test the tensioner with out removing cylinder cover so I can be sure before I go through all of that again? I appreciate the help!
JustAnR6 the process to test your specific cct should be in your service manual. when in doubt, change it out. have you looked into manual ccts? I highly suggest them because the possibility of them failing, is almost none. At TDC both cams should have a cylinder that is on a compression stroke, making it more difficult to roll.
Hello well now your kid is 7 right?, ha.. Question, 2011 Kawi Concours 14 w/16k miles. Stock cct hydraulic cold start hate that 2 second metal grind sound drives me crazy, am I ok to put a manual cct in that with VVT timing?👍
@cobaltss0720 Yes time suuure does fly. Ok great,,couple things do I still have to find top dead center first on a Kawi?? And I heard something about oil passages being blocked by putting a manual in, is that just an old wives tale or is that something to worry about
@seatime674 you'll want to block the passage if your CCT is hydralicly operated, meaning it uses oil pressure from the case. You will know when you pull it, there will be a small dia hole in the case that matches up with a hole in the CCT. If that's the case you will want to plug it. Some use JB weld, i use a small tap and a set screw with blue or red loctite.
@@cobaltss0720 Yea Its hydraulic. I hate to mess with it because it runs perfect but that startup grind bugs me bad as it self adjusts. Do you think if I used a thicker oil it would quiet that down a little on Startup or would it matter?
@@cobaltss0720 Quick opinion if you can, I'm getting 50/50 feedback on whether to plug the oil hole first putting in the manual cct instead of the oem hydraulic on the '11 Councours 14. Can't believe some use sealant sounds crazy, the heat and pressure would pop that right out, I'd use a screw, jb weld is marginal that could pop out to.... If I just left it open is it the end of the world and would it really affect pressure??. The APE Cct is what I'd use maybe it plugs the hole automatically hopefully. Ty...
I know this video is 6 years old but could you help me getting my back timed correctly I believe that I am following the instructions in the manual correctly but maybe I’m missing something
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I do have a question though. When using the tighten and 1/4 turn back out method, I notice upon completion and tightening lock nut, that there is still a slight slack still in the guide. I used the screwdriver to hold tension, brought the adjuster screw in until there was no back off of slack, but doing the 1/4 turn back off introduces a slight slack in the chain. It's not much at all, but slight slack none the less. If I did a slight tighten method like you first mentioned, I'm sure there would be no slack at all. So my question is, is any slack whatsoever bad? Or is barely tight with no slack better? Is there a difference? 06 r6 using PSR cct. Also, was reading through the comments... When I set to tdc, I noticed that it got easier to turn the crank just before tdc, like it wasn't building pressure as it reached tdc.. is that a problem?
Nvm about the second question, I tried again and it does start to build pressure again just before, and turning into tdc. Just wondering about the slight slack in timing chain
Yamaha makes a updated oem cam chain tensioner now. I ordered it and am wondering if anyone knows if it gets installed the same way the manual one gets installed? By setting the bike top dead center....and this one isnt a manual so does the cct itself still need to be adjusted or does it self adjust once installed and bike is started up.
its always recommended to move the motor to TDC. This keeps the cams from rolling over, and possibly hopping teeth and moving timing. I know they updated the CCT, but its still hydraulic, and prone to failure because of that. any motor we build, we always install a manual CCT. For the price we sell them for, its well worth it.
If ur just replacing the oem for oem don’t worry about the bike being tdc. Pull the old Tensioner out, drop in the new one (replace gasket too), and then tighten both bolts. Service manual says to just blip the start for a second and listen for any bad noises. This is for a bike/engine that is assembled. If you have the engine in pieces there may be another story. These exact instruction are on page 5-14 of the factory service manual for my 07 r6
GodSpeed yes, actually you do. If you don't the cams have a chance of rolling over due to the position they are on the buckets. If that happens with no chain tension, it will hop a tooth and lose timing. This has happened to a lot of people and creates a very big headache. If you don't know what you're talking about, don't share advice.
@@cobaltss0720 I've rebuilt a few R1 engines and replaced 3 gsxr engines, 1 busa motor, and have done idk how many cam chain replacements along with timing and valve adjustments. I've only had the chain jump timing one time while working on the bike (the 2008 busa) and all I had to do was just put it back. I know quite well enough about the engines to give advice. And I'm telling you that all you need to do is remove the old one, and replace with the new one, then tighten according to directions. (Usually all the way in fingertight then 1/4 turn out until you just barely hear a tick. So suck my dick.
Just changed mines without going to TDC Rode home perfectly with no issues I don’t understand how you can lose timing if the crankshaft, and cams are still connected to the same chain😊
So, apart from a lot of bullshit waffle, (that's a load of useless talk for our American friends), what's the point of a manual tensioner on a street bike over an OEM one? My 1998 R1 has done over 80,000 kms with the original tensioner and no problems.
Brother I searched high and low for this video I appreciate your point-to-point description and the time you took to leave details that are crucial to installing a manual chain tensioner for the Crossplane! ❤
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us (and the cautions) invaluable!
Thank you ! This by far was the best instructional video on the CCT thus far
46 thousand views..... Thanks bro I needed this video for guidance.
Thank you for you time ,video n tip. Good luck with everything n business.
i'm watching a few videos on this topic and most of them dont go as deep as you do. They just take off the first top cover and line up the T with the sensor. Have you seen any problems with doing it like that?. I appreciate you method is more thorough.
I hope you can help me🙏, I want to change the original tensioner for the original one, when I remove the old tensioner and put the new tensioner on (maintaining tension with the screwdriver), how do I unlock it to tighten the chain?
What blocks off the oil passage/galley?? I'm going to be using the APE manual CCT.
Thank you Noximus
Just to clarify, if I hand tighten it as much as I can, I then back it out 1/2 turn? Thanks
once you put the manual tensioner on. does it leak from the oil gallery that supplied the hydraulic tensioner? or is the ape gasket good enough?
Just found answer to my early question buddy, very informative video, however still have last question, after align the k mark and change the CCT, do i need to spin the crank sproket again to a certain degree? Or leave it as it and put everything back? 🙏
Roll the engine over slowly a few times. You'll notice as you get close to the K mark, the cams will almost pull or rotate the crank for you, and then it'll stop. This is because the valve springs are putting pressure on the lobes, and forcing them over. What you want is as close to the K mark as you can get, and AFTER that slight automatic rotation. You'll want to do this with the factory tensioner still in. Practice it and you'll know immediately what I'm referring to.
@@cobaltss0720 thanks a lot
@@vasea729 no worries and good luck.
Could you tell me if when fitting a manual cam chain tensioner if the engine needs to be at top dead centre on the compression stroke, or would it still be still ok set at top dead centre, on the exhaust stroke.
Thanks.
Just needs to be at TDC, what stroke it is on is not relevant for this.
@@cobaltss0720 Thanks cobaltss0720
Saves me a lot of trouble taking the cam cover off, and aligning the camshaft timing marks to get tdc on the compression stroke.
You said 1/4 turn further “in” from initial tension?
How do you block the oil port coming to the Cam tensioner
thanks for the video. install looks simple but a little nervous about not having enough tension on the chain while swapping CCT. so do you have to remove the cover again anytime you do adjustments? or just back out the locking nut, tighten tension down, and tighten down locking nut again? how tight is too tight when adjusting
r1nstang you shouldn't have to remove the timing cover every time. Because you'll be making adjustments to tighten the chain, you won't lose tension, if that makes any sense.
whats up man, im doing this on a honda 919 but im sure its pretty much the same, my question is how do you know if its too tight? its the only thing im not super confident on. ive heard people say a whirling noise would indicate over tight but i dont what that really means. thanks!
Hi i had a little drop and after that it makes a ticking sound on the cct place.... do i have to change the chain, is it better to take it to a shop?
Dont know how to align the camshaft. There are multiple dots. Please help
Im in the middle of this process on my 05 and im worried there is too many people doing it different ways
Do it the right way, coming from someone that builds motors for a living.
Can this same method be applied to a 2003 R1 chain tensioner?
Mr6thBorough I need to know as well. Ughhhh
@@jacobhoffman5336 it can i tired it with my 03 R1
hey bro, i was working on my 05 r1, i got a new timing cover, i pulled it and the tensioner pin came with it, i dont think it moved, but i was able to quickly put the pin back into place, lost tension for about 20 seconds, it honestly didnt look like anything changed, the tensioner guide just dropped a little .any recommendations?
I kno this is for a Yamaha but I did mine on my 04 gsxr 750. I did like everyone said keep tension for timing!! The bike runs and idles fine so timing isn't off. BUT... when i rev the bike it whines. I'm thinking it's the new tensioner because the head is different from the stock one. Any ideas?
thank you so much for the video.
hi i have a 2012 r1 the engine noise is the same as sheared videos they changed the tensioner and the sound go so i buy ape manual tensioner i did what they did but the same noise still coming out any help plz i’m from iraq and we don’t have a good engineer
Also I am in need of a cam chain tentioner for my 2017 r6....can u shoot me the link to your website please.
Hey hey everyone, I have a 2009 R1 with 11,000 mi on it that I have not ridden much in the last 5 years because of the click clock on start and down on power. I knew there was something wrong with it but I couldn't get my head out of my ass to read online and figure out that the cam chain tensioner needed to be replaced. But all is well. Hopefully the bike wasn't ridden much and hopefully the motor not hurt which I don't think it is because as it's running it sounds fine except for the click clack on start. But my question is the video is pretty clear that when you're setting initial tension you screw the tensioner bolt all the way in till it stops and then you go a quarter turn more. But everyone in the comments seems to think you go a quarter turn back. So which one is it? The video is pretty clear that you go an extra quarter. Turn tight after you get it. Finger tight
I you finger tighten the bolt and after that adjusting by noise with the motor running why would you ever adjust the bolt out? I don't see the danger here?
Hey man is tdc 100% needed or would I be good to just keep tension on the chain? Thanks
JustAnR6 I always suggest TDC to be safe. keeping tension on the chain is critical. the reason for TDC is that when you shut off your bike, it doesn't always roll over to a timing mark. which could pose a problem when you loosen chain tension. the motor "could" roll over on its own some when you loosen the OEM cam chain tensioner to put in your after market one. basically the motor could be on the verge of another stroke, which makes it incredible easy go roll over. hope that helps, and wasn't too confusing.
Sucks cause I just put bike back together yesterday from checking valve clearances lol, so tdc with cylinder 1 cams facing out right? Also is there a way to physically test the tensioner before I order one? Im going back with oem, but just wanna be sure thats what it is before I tear the bike down again, I appreciate the advice!
Well $%@#, lol sucks because I just got my bike back together yesterday from checking valve clearances, ok so tdc is cylinder 1 cams facing away from each other? Also is there any way to physically test the tensioner with out removing cylinder cover so I can be sure before I go through all of that again? I appreciate the help!
Also I plan on sticking with oem only because I dont trust myself to set it right lol
JustAnR6 the process to test your specific cct should be in your service manual. when in doubt, change it out. have you looked into manual ccts? I highly suggest them because the possibility of them failing, is almost none. At TDC both cams should have a cylinder that is on a compression stroke, making it more difficult to roll.
What happens if you don't turn it to TDC before u install?
How long did it take to replace? My local shop wants to charge me 3 hours labour for what looks like a 30 mins job.
Takes me about 30 mins max
@@cobaltss0720 thanks bro
@@darkknight17 no problem at all
So if I installed my manual CCT without putting motor to TDC... am i fucked? What should I do now (haven't cranked bike yet)
chris s no you're not fucked, but if the cams moved there's a chance you moved timing
Hello well now your kid is 7 right?, ha.. Question, 2011 Kawi Concours 14 w/16k miles. Stock cct hydraulic cold start hate that 2 second metal grind sound drives me crazy, am I ok to put a manual cct in that with VVT timing?👍
@seatime674 she's 9 now, how time Flys. Yep you will be okay to put in a manual CCT. It won't affect your VVT at all.
@cobaltss0720 Yes time suuure does fly. Ok great,,couple things do I still have to find top dead center first on a Kawi?? And I heard something about oil passages being blocked by putting a manual in, is that just an old wives tale or is that something to worry about
@seatime674 you'll want to block the passage if your CCT is hydralicly operated, meaning it uses oil pressure from the case. You will know when you pull it, there will be a small dia hole in the case that matches up with a hole in the CCT. If that's the case you will want to plug it. Some use JB weld, i use a small tap and a set screw with blue or red loctite.
@@cobaltss0720 Yea Its hydraulic. I hate to mess with it because it runs perfect but that startup grind bugs me bad as it self adjusts. Do you think if I used a thicker oil it would quiet that down a little on Startup or would it matter?
@@cobaltss0720 Quick opinion if you can, I'm getting 50/50 feedback on whether to plug the oil hole first putting in the manual cct instead of the oem hydraulic on the '11 Councours 14. Can't believe some use sealant sounds crazy, the heat and pressure would pop that right out, I'd use a screw, jb weld is marginal that could pop out to.... If I just left it open is it the end of the world and would it really affect pressure??. The APE Cct is what I'd use maybe it plugs the hole automatically hopefully. Ty...
I know this video is 6 years old but could you help me getting my back timed correctly I believe that I am following the instructions in the manual correctly but maybe I’m missing something
Sure, email me at chadgwork@gmail.com. I'll shoot you my number and you can give me a call.
Yoga F Kr 1300 carbon chain catcher replacement
Where can I buy it? Thanx!
We sell them. Shoot us a email sales@noxracing.com
@@cobaltss0720 will they fit the yamaha 3-cyl watercraft TR-3 motor,was told same as yamaha side by side with 3 cyl?
@@zeke2566 this particular one will not, but we have a set that does.
Does this apply to the 2017 r6?
kueda1 yep, same concept.
NoxImus ty
Thanks for the video, very helpful. I do have a question though. When using the tighten and 1/4 turn back out method, I notice upon completion and tightening lock nut, that there is still a slight slack still in the guide. I used the screwdriver to hold tension, brought the adjuster screw in until there was no back off of slack, but doing the 1/4 turn back off introduces a slight slack in the chain. It's not much at all, but slight slack none the less. If I did a slight tighten method like you first mentioned, I'm sure there would be no slack at all. So my question is, is any slack whatsoever bad? Or is barely tight with no slack better? Is there a difference? 06 r6 using PSR cct. Also, was reading through the comments... When I set to tdc, I noticed that it got easier to turn the crank just before tdc, like it wasn't building pressure as it reached tdc.. is that a problem?
Nvm about the second question, I tried again and it does start to build pressure again just before, and turning into tdc. Just wondering about the slight slack in timing chain
Yamaha makes a updated oem cam chain tensioner now. I ordered it and am wondering if anyone knows if it gets installed the same way the manual one gets installed? By setting the bike top dead center....and this one isnt a manual so does the cct itself still need to be adjusted or does it self adjust once installed and bike is started up.
its always recommended to move the motor to TDC. This keeps the cams from rolling over, and possibly hopping teeth and moving timing. I know they updated the CCT, but its still hydraulic, and prone to failure because of that. any motor we build, we always install a manual CCT. For the price we sell them for, its well worth it.
If ur just replacing the oem for oem don’t worry about the bike being tdc. Pull the old Tensioner out, drop in the new one (replace gasket too), and then tighten both bolts. Service manual says to just blip the start for a second and listen for any bad noises. This is for a bike/engine that is assembled. If you have the engine in pieces there may be another story. These exact instruction are on page 5-14 of the factory service manual for my 07 r6
@@letsgobrandon5622 your username hasn’t aged well...
@@doinstuff69 just like your mom .
Your finger bro!
Just remove the old one and replace with the manual cct.
Turn in until you feel tension and unscrew 1/4 turn. Don't need to get it at TDC or anything.
GodSpeed yes, actually you do. If you don't the cams have a chance of rolling over due to the position they are on the buckets. If that happens with no chain tension, it will hop a tooth and lose timing. This has happened to a lot of people and creates a very big headache. If you don't know what you're talking about, don't share advice.
@@cobaltss0720 I've rebuilt a few R1 engines and replaced 3 gsxr engines, 1 busa motor, and have done idk how many cam chain replacements along with timing and valve adjustments.
I've only had the chain jump timing one time while working on the bike (the 2008 busa) and all I had to do was just put it back.
I know quite well enough about the engines to give advice. And I'm telling you that all you need to do is remove the old one, and replace with the new one, then tighten according to directions. (Usually all the way in fingertight then 1/4 turn out until you just barely hear a tick.
So suck my dick.
@@mhiscott4925 Yep, he's really over complicating things.
Just changed mines without going to TDC
Rode home perfectly with no issues
I don’t understand how you can lose timing if the crankshaft, and cams are still connected to the same chain😊
Well I’m fucked...
So, apart from a lot of bullshit waffle, (that's a load of useless talk for our American friends), what's the point of a manual tensioner on a street bike over an OEM one? My 1998 R1 has done over 80,000 kms with the original tensioner and no problems.
I have the blue 1998 R-1 with just under 60 thousand miles and no problems ,but from year to year yamaha had problems with tensioner failing.....