I ride a FZ1 and I'm thinking about getting a 2021 or 22 MT09, so the RUclips algorithm brought me here I guess 😊You did a very good explanation of what can be a tricky installation, I don't think I need it any time soon but I still enjoyed it a lot. Thanks!
Have you had the clutch basket rubbers fail yet? I had to drill out my basket rivets to get the steel plate off the drive gear side to get to the rubbers and replace them. Tapped and put helix coils in M6 by 1.00 bolts in. Hinson makes the rubbers. Their CU216 Hinson cushion kit. Did the clutch as same time. Only issue with that was the lever had a ton of slack after I put the Recluse Torq drive clutch in. Adjusted the cable completely the opposite side, with the lever adjuster half way out before I got it to syn up. PIA
I plan on checking out the clutch basket and rubbers before riding season this year. By the end of season last year it did have a bit of clutch noise, so I am thinking that a basket or bushing replacement will be in order. Thanks for reminding me about the Hinson options available and letting me know about the clutch cable adjustment. How does your clutch feel and sound after the install?
@@Skipshift Most oem hydraulic tensioners replaced with manual you have to plug the oil hole on the head so you don't lose oil pressure, have you done that on any?
@seatime674 It definitely depends on the engine and how the tensioner functions. The majority of the tensioners I've seen on later model bikes have been like the CP3 tensioner and use a pawl on a rack using spring tension to make the adjustment. There was a hydraulic tensioner that we changed to a MCCT several years ago. I believe that was a KTM, but I'm not 100% certain on that. I do remember we turned down a small brass plug to fit the hole to maintain top end oil pressure and flow. Definitely worth researching for any engine you'd think about changing to MCCTs.
@@Skipshift Good to know.. I have the '11 Kawasaki Concours 14 and they have a bad 2 second cold start up rattle that drives me bonkers so I'm replacing with an APE manual. The oem is hydraulic so it will have that hole on the side of the head when you take the oem out and it's 50/50 some say to plug it and some say leave it alone.. It's literally a pea size hole on the side where the adjuster comes out so I'll either jb weld a glob In there or try and set a tap screw which will be awkward because it's at an angle..I'll figure something out....ugh!!
Thanks for sharing. The previous owner installed a MCCT on my FZ09 and I want to adjust it. Which wrench should I use to loosen the tighten nut of the MCCT? And if I understand correctly, after loosen the nut a little bit, I need a 4mm allen key to adjust the screw?
You could make a few small adjustments and see if it makes a difference. Go maybe 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time so as not to overtighten the chain. If you hear a light "whining" noise then back the tensioner off slowly until the whine goes away.
I tightened it as much as I could by hand and never heard the whining noise of being to tight, when cold i have the chain 1/4 turn tighter than when warm to get the rattle to be gone should I stick with a 1/4 turn tighter so it's not rattling on cold start? I'm worried it's to tight.
Hello i would like to ask you why is that setup for? I mean if you keep that noise is gone to be something bad to the engine or is good to check and fix it?
This assembly is to replace the automatic timing chain tensioner, which can sometimes fail to tension or hold tension on the timing chain. If the chain gets an excessive amount of slack, it can cause the chain to jump teeth on the sprockets and cause catastrophic engine failure. This stock adjuster was nowhere close to that point of failure, but was replaced as a preventative measure against failure while on the road.
Haha pretty likely that it's worn out. If I remember the 700 Nighthawk right it used in internal tensioning setup that was pretty awkward. I don't know of a way to manually tension those, but there may be something out there.
Thanks for your video... I actually just did this today and after installation it started right up and sounded normal (no ticking). I ran it about 30sec. Then an hour later i went out to ride and it started up again but after only 3-5 sec it sputtered and died. Now it won't start. Any thoughts? Ideas?
@lezipOD A sputter before shutting off would be air or fuel related more than likely. Check for fuel and spark if you're able and see which one is missing. I can't think of any connectors in the area that may have gotten unplugged or pinched during this install process.
That is a possible temporary fix. The ability of the original to adjust on its own and hold that tension is the source of the problem. They tried it fix it in later years by routing oil pressure into the tensioner, but they still fail to hold. You could force the adjustment, but no guarantee it will hold. The MCCT just takes that chance out of the equation.
Certificando-se de que o sincronismo do motor está correto. Se a sincronização estiver errada, as válvulas podem entortar e danificar o motor. Girar manualmente apresenta menos riscos do que usar o starter. Checking the engine timing. If the timing chain had slipped it could cause a valve to hit the piston and damage the engine. Turning the engine by hand let me feel for any collisions or binding without risk of bending valves.
Can you turn the engine over before and after installing the new cct? I saw another video where you can look at the notches while turning the engine over to see if they align before installing the cct.
I did not check the timing marks before or after the install. There wasn't enough slack for the timing to have jumped, and the bike still ran fine. If the timing has jumped for some reason then the bike would run pretty horrible if it didn't bend valves or worse. As long as you keep tension on the chain, like I did by sticking the socket extension behind the chain guide, it should stay put. If for some reason it lost tension and the chain jumped you would hear it as it happened. I would definitely check the marks before installing the MCCT if you even think it jumped time. Hope that helps.
I believe the 2021+ engine uses a different style of tensioner. The installation would be similar but will probably require a different tensioner for that engine. Check with the tensioner manufacturer before ordering it just to be sure.
Not my bike but for those with this particular model, they just got an excellent tutorial to solve a chronic issue. Well done. Cheers 🍻 Eddie
I ride a FZ1 and I'm thinking about getting a 2021 or 22 MT09, so the RUclips algorithm brought me here I guess 😊You did a very good explanation of what can be a tricky installation, I don't think I need it any time soon but I still enjoyed it a lot. Thanks!
Thank you Eric I have 2022 Tracer9 GT new bike, with the same kicking Noice I thought from the water pump , thank you well done video.
Jeff. this is above my pay grade but you sure did a great job showing what to look for. Great job. Eric
Thanks Eric!
Just trying to spread some knowledge 😉
Great video. Thanks for posting!
Great job. Thanks for sharing
Have you had the clutch basket rubbers fail yet? I had to drill out my basket rivets to get the steel plate off the drive gear side to get to the rubbers and replace them. Tapped and put helix coils in M6 by 1.00 bolts in. Hinson makes the rubbers. Their CU216 Hinson cushion kit. Did the clutch as same time. Only issue with that was the lever had a ton of slack after I put the Recluse Torq drive clutch in. Adjusted the cable completely the opposite side, with the lever adjuster half way out before I got it to syn up. PIA
I plan on checking out the clutch basket and rubbers before riding season this year. By the end of season last year it did have a bit of clutch noise, so I am thinking that a basket or bushing replacement will be in order.
Thanks for reminding me about the Hinson options available and letting me know about the clutch cable adjustment.
How does your clutch feel and sound after the install?
@@Skipshift Most oem hydraulic tensioners replaced with manual you have to plug the oil hole on the head so you don't lose oil pressure, have you done that on any?
@seatime674 It definitely depends on the engine and how the tensioner functions. The majority of the tensioners I've seen on later model bikes have been like the CP3 tensioner and use a pawl on a rack using spring tension to make the adjustment. There was a hydraulic tensioner that we changed to a MCCT several years ago. I believe that was a KTM, but I'm not 100% certain on that. I do remember we turned down a small brass plug to fit the hole to maintain top end oil pressure and flow.
Definitely worth researching for any engine you'd think about changing to MCCTs.
@@Skipshift Good to know.. I have the '11 Kawasaki Concours 14 and they have a bad 2 second cold start up rattle that drives me bonkers so I'm replacing with an APE manual. The oem is hydraulic so it will have that hole on the side of the head when you take the oem out and it's 50/50 some say to plug it and some say leave it alone.. It's literally a pea size hole on the side where the adjuster comes out so I'll either jb weld a glob In there or try and set a tap screw which will be awkward because it's at an angle..I'll figure something out....ugh!!
Thanks for sharing. The previous owner installed a MCCT on my FZ09 and I want to adjust it. Which wrench should I use to loosen the tighten nut of the MCCT? And if I understand correctly, after loosen the nut a little bit, I need a 4mm allen key to adjust the screw?
awesome content. thank you for sharing. Have a Good Day!❤👍
Awesome work man. I don’t dabble anywhere the sun don’t shine (internals) lol. But awesome step by step nonetheless
Thank ya sir 😆
If the bike still rattles when cold should I tighten it up a bit? It rattles until about 130 degrees, I don't want to over tighten it
You could make a few small adjustments and see if it makes a difference. Go maybe 1/8 or 1/4 turn at a time so as not to overtighten the chain.
If you hear a light "whining" noise then back the tensioner off slowly until the whine goes away.
@Skipshift is the whirring very noticeable? The bike whines/whirrs normally and I'm worried I won't be able to tell
Motor yang sangat gagah dan istimewa
Terima kasih.👍
I tightened it as much as I could by hand and never heard the whining noise of being to tight, when cold i have the chain 1/4 turn tighter than when warm to get the rattle to be gone should I stick with a 1/4 turn tighter so it's not rattling on cold start? I'm worried it's to tight.
Hello i would like to ask you why is that setup for? I mean if you keep that noise is gone to be something bad to the engine or is good to check and fix it?
This assembly is to replace the automatic timing chain tensioner, which can sometimes fail to tension or hold tension on the timing chain.
If the chain gets an excessive amount of slack, it can cause the chain to jump teeth on the sprockets and cause catastrophic engine failure. This stock adjuster was nowhere close to that point of failure, but was replaced as a preventative measure against failure while on the road.
Can you do this for a 1984 CB700SC now?! 😜😜 I think my auto cam tensioner is worn out 🥲
Haha pretty likely that it's worn out. If I remember the 700 Nighthawk right it used in internal tensioning setup that was pretty awkward. I don't know of a way to manually tension those, but there may be something out there.
Thanks for your video... I actually just did this today and after installation it started right up and sounded normal (no ticking). I ran it about 30sec. Then an hour later i went out to ride and it started up again but after only 3-5 sec it sputtered and died. Now it won't start. Any thoughts? Ideas?
@lezipOD A sputter before shutting off would be air or fuel related more than likely. Check for fuel and spark if you're able and see which one is missing. I can't think of any connectors in the area that may have gotten unplugged or pinched during this install process.
Or you could Just adjust the original one with a Quarter turn clockwise.
That is a possible temporary fix. The ability of the original to adjust on its own and hold that tension is the source of the problem. They tried it fix it in later years by routing oil pressure into the tensioner, but they still fail to hold. You could force the adjustment, but no guarantee it will hold.
The MCCT just takes that chance out of the equation.
Mine was complete stuck,no turning possible.
Porque voce girou o motor manualmente? ( 6:49min)
Certificando-se de que o sincronismo do motor está correto.
Se a sincronização estiver errada, as válvulas podem entortar e danificar o motor.
Girar manualmente apresenta menos riscos do que usar o starter.
Checking the engine timing. If the timing chain had slipped it could cause a valve to hit the piston and damage the engine. Turning the engine by hand let me feel for any collisions or binding without risk of bending valves.
@@Skipshift 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Can you turn the engine over before and after installing the new cct? I saw another video where you can look at the notches while turning the engine over to see if they align before installing the cct.
I did not check the timing marks before or after the install. There wasn't enough slack for the timing to have jumped, and the bike still ran fine. If the timing has jumped for some reason then the bike would run pretty horrible if it didn't bend valves or worse.
As long as you keep tension on the chain, like I did by sticking the socket extension behind the chain guide, it should stay put. If for some reason it lost tension and the chain jumped you would hear it as it happened. I would definitely check the marks before installing the MCCT if you even think it jumped time.
Hope that helps.
روعه 🤝🧚♀️👍
Cuanta tension debe llevar la cadena de distribución??
Able to move slightly by hand. Maybe 1mm at most.
Capaz de moverse ligeramente con la mano. 1 milímetro como máximo.
How much,where can i buy it.tq
They are available from a ton of places. This one came from Amazon and cost around 40 dollars at the time.
Where did ya buy that?
I picked this one up from Amazon for around $50 US
Compatibile con MT 09 anno 2021?
Can I used this to 2021 mt09?
I believe the 2021+ engine uses a different style of tensioner.
The installation would be similar but will probably require a different tensioner for that engine. Check with the tensioner manufacturer before ordering it just to be sure.