I replace both the service port valves when I am doing A/C work on older cars. Nothing gets me so tilted when I spend the time dialing in the refrigerant amount using the temp seeker to get it juuuust right, then blow part of the charge as soon as I disconnect the A/C machine hoses. This is the kind of stuff you don't find out until you fix the initial problem. Until you fix the initial A/C issue, you don't know, like that compressor noise.
I'm not much of a ford guy but I enjoy your videos. I'm helping my buddy with his 89 Lincoln Town Car Signature SE. In a week or so we are swapping the radiator and getting a replacement radio in.
Good idea although maybe a few (6) 1 inch hole saw cuts into that one half of the dryer mount would do the same without eliminating the entire part? Lots of GM vehicles don't have any covers on those dryers and they work just fine.
You keep track of what you lost and then you put it back in But every time you add a new component like an accumulator that can retain some oil you always put a little bit more in
When I had the air conditioning fixed on my 2005 Grand Marquis the shop got a Murray part that's supposed to last longer than the factory accumulators as well as an upgraded Murray evaporator and compressor as they were both bad as well, sent it in for an evaporator leak but after they fixed the evaporator the compressor shit the bed then after putting in a new compressor the accumulator shit the bed, first replacement compressor lasted 8 months before the clutch assembly came apart but they warrantied it no questions asked and the new compressor is holding up better, I do believe the first one was faulty from new as the car had an odd whine and was very loaded down when the compressor was engaged but with the new one it's quiet and the car performs as it did with the original Ford compressor which lasted 220K miles before self destructing and clogging the orifice tube with shrapnel
The accumulators are very common. On the older ones they drip on the frame and could end up sending the car to the junkyard :*(. These are in a better place. Actually have to fix mine :lol:. Mine is sweating oil for years and still has a bit of a charge. Have to bring it to a place to pull the charge.
It will have much more road noise and not like a cloud but it will handle better. You will not worry about it breaking again but it will take some getting use to.
Great informative video sir! appreciate it!,question, my 2010 grand marquis,I'm having issues with fuel nozzle shutting off when filling, have to go really slow or turn the nozzle upside down to get it to fill,any ideas on what's wrong, myabe something with evap system
I would say your pointed in the right direction looking at the EVAP system. This video seems to be right on point with your issue ruclips.net/video/R8C1pzeZaI4/видео.html
2007 Lincoln town car. AC compressor is always on(engaged) . Even when low pressure switch is disconnected, its still engaged. Freezes the low pressure line . Any suggestion?
Speaking of A/C. I've heard that if the PCM detects a misfire, it will shut off the A/C (as well as "non essential" items) on a lot of Fords? Any truth to this?
@@FordBossMe Understandable lol. I actually did a Mode 6 scan with FORScan and it popped up with a misfire on cyl 5 and 6. I never felt it but... it's there. Ironically I have A/C issues as well and have replaced pretty much everything except the compressor and condenser. Waiting on new plugs now. All the coils ohm'd to Ford spec.
Wonder if that’s the problem with my town car the ac only comes out of the floor vents . But what’s weird is if the external temperature is below 65f it switches and will blow out of top vents also
If heat and air only comes out one vent, or won’t switch to all proper vents when buttons are pushed. You most likely have a blend door issue. Behind the dash… can be a tricky fix, some people are able to finagle behind the dash and replace it without removing too much. You can also do the climate control self test. And see if that brings up anything. Rich has a video on it. Press a few buttons and gives you a code.
I would on older vehicles, but I would do it after recovering the refrigerant and before pulling a vacuum. Saves from having to pull a vacuum a second time.
Look in the comments section don't always just say something first right off the hip both Schrader valves were replaced my focus was on the low side the high side was not important to talk about
Easy fix. Takes like 15 minutes to swap, love how easy they made it to work in stuff. Done it plenty of times. Vacuum and refill take the most time
I replace both the service port valves when I am doing A/C work on older cars. Nothing gets me so tilted when I spend the time dialing in the refrigerant amount using the temp seeker to get it juuuust right, then blow part of the charge as soon as I disconnect the A/C machine hoses.
This is the kind of stuff you don't find out until you fix the initial problem. Until you fix the initial A/C issue, you don't know, like that compressor noise.
I'm not much of a ford guy but I enjoy your videos. I'm helping my buddy with his 89 Lincoln Town Car Signature SE. In a week or so we are swapping the radiator and getting a replacement radio in.
Napa in general usually has a little better quality parts than other aftermarket parts in my opinion. Great video
Is Napa still running that full lifetime replacement warranty on a lot of those parts still?
Great tip , will do that to the Marauder. It came from Sterling IL. Its now resting out west !……
The engine fan probably helps dry off the accumulator too once the other half of the cover is removed.
Awesome Boss... Really appreciate you schooling us !!
Nice job and it’s always nice to see someone who actually has the ability to recognize why a part fails and comes up with a simple solution.
Good idea although maybe a few (6) 1 inch hole saw cuts into that one half of the dryer mount would do the same without eliminating the entire part? Lots of GM vehicles don't have any covers on those dryers and they work just fine.
Yes these accumulators do rust out. Thanks for showing how you replace it. Yes vacuuming is a must.
Rich you do amazing work. I was wondering do you have to add PAG oil every time you evacuate the system ?
You keep track of what you lost and then you put it back in
But every time you add a new component like an accumulator that can retain some oil you always put a little bit more in
@corey Babcock he is a incredibly knowledgeable and talented individual and a fantastic teacher.
Love the lessons Rich! Much appreciated!
NAPA accumulator lasts way longer than Ford anyway.
When I had the air conditioning fixed on my 2005 Grand Marquis the shop got a Murray part that's supposed to last longer than the factory accumulators as well as an upgraded Murray evaporator and compressor as they were both bad as well, sent it in for an evaporator leak but after they fixed the evaporator the compressor shit the bed then after putting in a new compressor the accumulator shit the bed, first replacement compressor lasted 8 months before the clutch assembly came apart but they warrantied it no questions asked and the new compressor is holding up better, I do believe the first one was faulty from new as the car had an odd whine and was very loaded down when the compressor was engaged but with the new one it's quiet and the car performs as it did with the original Ford compressor which lasted 220K miles before self destructing and clogging the orifice tube with shrapnel
Rich, I'm coming to school at training center in Itasca next week. Big fan! Would love to meet you if you had a minute
I'm going to be out of the country for the next week
Sound good. Appreciate the response brother
Great mod Rich. I'll be doing that to my 03 town car next weekend.
Hey here’s the car that the compressor stopped working on after you advised the customer and it then was back at your shop lol
First thing I had to swap when I bought my 04 ultimate...I thought it was tricky to get at....make sure save that case🤙
The accumulators are very common. On the older ones they drip on the frame and could end up sending the car to the junkyard :*(. These are in a better place. Actually have to fix mine :lol:. Mine is sweating oil for years and still has a bit of a charge. Have to bring it to a place to pull the charge.
I remember when those connections first started they had 2 rings then a crazy clamp then green rings then 3 green rings that kind of fixed them
Great idea for MOD on the FoMoCo accumulator
Hope that's all that's wrong with mine. Having to add refrigerant to my 2002 continental pretty regular now days. Thank you.
I don't think the Continental has the same type of can I don't remember though
@@FordBossMe I'd just bring it to you if i could.
Nice work.
Did the same thing on my P71 over the weekend.
It'll never rot out now
those valves seem to fail at around 10 years... I discovered my low side valve on my 2008 is leaking so I'm gonna have to replace it soon
My compressor sounds like that in my 2004 expedition, been like that for 2 years
I think I have the same problem bro!! I can see the bottom of the unit where it was wet, I'll have to stop by....
Do you recommend switching from air bags to regular shocks? Had my air suspension changed a year ago and it’s broke again on my 2006 Lincoln town car
Yeah it's less problematic
It will have much more road noise and not like a cloud but it will handle better. You will not worry about it breaking again but it will take some getting use to.
The dye looks like predator blood under uv light
NAPA? Is the part coming from Rain Man Ray?
Toyota AC systems are good for 300k usually.
Toyota Fan Boy?
the a/c still works good in my 20 year Corolla 224k, My brother had a 1999 expedition which had the original compressor 394K, it outlasted the engine
Great informative video sir! appreciate it!,question, my 2010 grand marquis,I'm having issues with fuel nozzle shutting off when filling, have to go really slow or turn the nozzle upside down to get it to fill,any ideas on what's wrong, myabe something with evap system
I would say your pointed in the right direction looking at the EVAP system. This video seems to be right on point with your issue ruclips.net/video/R8C1pzeZaI4/видео.html
I had the same issue sometimes I just have to keep moving the handle around
Are they putting those plastic covers on all vehicles or just certain ones does my 2017 Ford transit have that plastic cover on the accumulator?
on the older vehicles
This doesn't have anything to do with the newer vehicles
2007 Lincoln town car. AC compressor is always on(engaged) . Even when low pressure switch is disconnected, its still engaged. Freezes the low pressure line . Any suggestion?
Thats odd, seems like a short somewhere
@@FordBossMe p0645 code present.
Speaking of A/C. I've heard that if the PCM detects a misfire, it will shut off the A/C (as well as "non essential" items) on a lot of Fords? Any truth to this?
I mean I could see that being true but I don't know every single little tiny working part of every one of these vehicles to be honest with you
@@FordBossMe Understandable lol. I actually did a Mode 6 scan with FORScan and it popped up with a misfire on cyl 5 and 6. I never felt it but... it's there. Ironically I have A/C issues as well and have replaced pretty much everything except the compressor and condenser.
Waiting on new plugs now. All the coils ohm'd to Ford spec.
Wonder if that’s the problem with my town car the ac only comes out of the floor vents . But what’s weird is if the external temperature is below 65f it switches and will blow out of top vents also
Mode door issue
If heat and air only comes out one vent, or won’t switch to all proper vents when buttons are pushed. You most likely have a blend door issue. Behind the dash… can be a tricky fix, some people are able to finagle behind the dash and replace it without removing too much.
You can also do the climate control self test. And see if that brings up anything.
Rich has a video on it. Press a few buttons and gives you a code.
@@FordBossMe you beat me to it in a matter of a minute😂.
@@RyanC_04 You guys beat me to it in a matter of minutes!
@@jonathansherwood5841 I was typing mine out, never saw Rich’s part till after I typed mine out and posted it.😂
What kind of uv light you have
It's just a basic Amazon ac uv leak detection light
Would it make sense to change both the high and low side Schrader valves since you already have it vacuumed down?
I would on older vehicles, but I would do it after recovering the refrigerant and before pulling a vacuum. Saves from having to pull a vacuum a second time.
I did but my focus was on the low side I don't show every little detail
@@jonathansherwood5841 that is probably how I should have explained it. In a sense you vacuum out the Freon when recovering it.
@@FordBossMe I should have known, you are very thorough.
What light and dye are you using
It's just a generic UV light for AC and generic R134 dye for AC
Why not replace both schrader valves?
Look in the comments section don't always just say something first right off the hip both Schrader valves were replaced my focus was on the low side the high side was not important to talk about
Understood, Thank You for the reply, enjoy the vaca.
She's a leaker man a leaker..